There is a huge Zaino following out there. It is sort of cultish, mainly because the Zaino boys do not sell their products to car part stores. So it is mainly word of mouth and selling at the classic auto shows. And there is another group that just won't believe that all of these people are talking up a product without having some alterior motive. Most of these folks have never tried Zaino. You will also find that it is very common in these forums for a user of a specific product to be ... less than objective in their opinions about competing products ... waxes, cars, or just about anything. .... me included ;-)
I'm just an average guy who loves his cars, and I've tried many different products over the years, from Turtle Wax to Eagle One to Meguiers to Zaino. First off, any non-abrasive wax or polish will add years to the life of your paint and will make cleaning easier. Second, you can spend $6 for some turtle wax and Windex and your set, or you can spend $75 or more for a complete set of Meguiers or Zaino car care products. Most people start with the $6 investment, and depending on how much they become ...obsessed? ... they migrate to other, better, more expensive and more specific products. Products especially for rubber, others for plastic, base coats of wax, top coats, etc.
There are two things going for polymer polishes over waxes. They last longer and they repel dust better. Waxes on the other hand have traditionally given a better shine and greater depth to the finish. However, there is a whole new world of polymers out there these days that seem to shine nearly as well as waxes and last longer.
And then there is Zaino. I'm a realtively new Zaino user and I am just crazy about it. I try to wash my car very week, and I used a "top-coat" wax after every wash. I had been a dyed in the wool Meguier's user for a long time, and still have a closet full of their products. [Actually I still believe that their low abrasion cleaning and glazing products made for the professional shop are still the best out there.] But I am absolutely sold on the Zaino polishes.
Both my wifes car and my car got the full deep cleaning, old wax stripping, claying, 7-coat Zaino polishes for hiding swirel marks (Z5) and giving the best high gloss (Z2)and I have never been happier with a car product before. I've actually begun to wash the car less often because they do not get as dusty as fast as they used to. The dust just seems to slide off. The gloss and depth is the best I've ever attained. And I do not use the top-coats after each wash anymore.
But you will not see these kinds of results without hours of work. For me, it truely is a happy time. I love caring for our cars like this. If instead, you opt for a wash and a quick 1 coat of polish, the car will still look great and the 1 coat will provide lots of protection, for a long time. It just won't be up to that show-car kind of finish.
Even if you decide not to use the Z-products, visit their web page for some great car care info. zainobros.com, and look at the meguiers.com as well.
And at the very least, get a coat of tutle wax on that new car!
Brenda - Looks like you've started a little rumble!! :-).
I am a Z user and try to respect everyone else's conviction to and opinion of the products they use - so no one start anything.
All products take some work, there is no easy solution. Actually, there is and I suggest you do this:
Pickup up the phone book and call a detail shop. Pay them the money and pick the car up when it's done. That should get you through the winter. Then you can decide what to do next spring.
Can anybody explain how to use the clay bar and when to use it. How long should it be left on the paint? How to remove it? By towel or water? How many times you should glide the clay bar against the paint? Is there any extra thing to consider in applying the clay bar? Is Meguiar's a good choice for this?
I went out today and bought some Meguiar's polish and wax, mainly because if I don't wax the car this weekend it'll get so cold I won't be able to do anything with the car until April. If I get sufficiently enthusiastic I will also wax my husband's car (he's going to Hawaii on business, the rat, and is not going to be driving his car).
To use the clay bar is very simple. First, you wash the car with Blue Dawn to remove all the road junk and as much of the old wax as possible. Then you carefully remove the clay from it's wrapper, spray a little of the lubricant on the car, and scrub 1-2 square feet, just like putting on wax, in small circles to be sure you cover every part. Then, you move to the next section, and so on, until the whole car is done. Then, you Dawn wash it again, to get all the lubricant off, dry throughly, and then wax or polymer your car. If you're using Zaino, this will be the last time you will need to clay the car.
Be REALLY careful about dropping the clay bar. It is guaranteed you will drop it at least once, as it is very slippery with the lubricant on it. Put down a shower curtain or trash bag so WHEN it falls, it will not pick up some dirt or grit off the dround or driveway that you will then use to scratch up your paint!
It is really amazing how smooooth the car will be. I first heard about it from a very high end detailer that told me that he would never wax a car without claying it first, so I started reading about it and used it on my new Solara with GREAT results.
What's the coldest weather you guys have applied Zaino in? I live in PA and lately the temperatures have been in the 30's and I'm not sure if it's getting warmer anytime soon. I ordered Zaino products two days ago and expect to get them sometime next week. I was hoping to apply the Zaino polish next weekend but I'm not sure if I'm able to with these current temperatures. Anyone have any luck applying Zaino in the low 30's? How long did it take to apply and dry? Any info is appreciated. Thanks.
I applied Zaino when the temps were in the low 30's here in Kansas last year. I did it in direct sunlight and the total time to apply, dry and remove was about 3 hours. The humidity was very low that day. The results were very good.
I could'nt agree with you more! I've been waxing my cars for over 30 years(ouch) and since I found out about Zaino a year ago, THIS is THE best that I have ever used, and man I have used a lot of waxes out there.
Today was 39 degrees. I washed the car and polished it, and waxed the hood and roof. Then my daughter appeared and had to be driven somewhere. I will finish waxing it tomorrow.
Even though I'm now a Z-convert, I still think very highly of Meguier's. I think it is about the best you can get at the local auto parts store. I'm sure you will be happy.
I've used Clay Magic and Zaino clay products. I did not notice much of a difference between the clay itself, but I like Zaino's instructions better as they describe how to make up tons of lubricant from their car soap and water. I have not tried Meguier's clay, but all of their other products are top-drawer and they make many profesional products for body shops and detailers.
If your paint is not in the best of shape, has heavier scratches and oxidation, I'd advise using a slightly abrasive product like one of the Meguire's Paint or Clear Coat cleaners or glazes instead of, or before claying. Claying works best when the paint is in relatively good shape and your really after the surface dirt, rather than the defects in the finish.
Looking at my husband's Corolla, it's in -lousy- shape. He drove through some tar at some point in the past, and bug-and-tar cleaner doesn't budge it. Would clay be the next step?
Clay might be the next step, or a simple paint cleaner such as Meguiar's Body Scrub. Also, has anyone here tried Malm's Formula 1 Polish/Glaze, or any of their products? I am willing to hear other results. Thanx.
bclough - one thing to consider is the weather. Many chemicals don't work as well as they should below 55. Try letting the bug and tar remover soak in for a few minutes before washing off. Lifter 1 works well for me. You may try warming the area with a blow dryer first if it is cold. I would only use clay as a last resort, because I'm cheap and clay is expensive. I would not try to reuse it after removing tar.
Different brands. I don't think it is so much what you use as much as you use something regularly. People who care about their cars find the time to regularly wash, clean, and polish/wax. That is what makes a car continue to look good. The last 5% in looks usually isn't worth it, realistically, but if that's your "thing" then go for it. I'm not a Z guy, but maybe in the future, but I want to see first hand results before I plunk down that kind of money. I understand Mr Hanley's perspective as I had a similar result when comparing Kit carnuba to Malm's. Sometimes the result isn't as great as the hype. Use what makes you happy, just do it regularly.
thanks for your insight on zaino products. i haven't tried any of the z products and reserve to see first hand results before throwing 50-75 dollars of my hard earn money. even if it's on a brand new maxima.
The car-care department in the store I went to had clay only in a package, combined with a cleaner and wax. This was Mother's. I got the car reasonably clean (there's some bits of tar that probably date back seven years, and they don't plan to budge) and waxed it. I found that the Mother's wax shines up very fast, whereas when I waxed the other car with Meguiar's it took a little more buffing to get to the shine. Does this correlate in any way to how well the wax jobs will wear? I won't be able to compare cars, because one car sits out in a parking lot all day long, while the other goes into and out of the garage.
You can try to use a rag soaked with kerosene or gas to get that last bit of tar off, just work fast. It's sort of a last resort, but if your not leaving the rag sit on the car for hours it probably won't hurt it. Or you can use a paint cleaner like was described earlier to remove oxidation. I'm not really sure how long a "Mothers" shine will last. Meguier's is a pretty good product though. I believe it will last as long as any. Meguier's also makes a "top-coat" wax in a spray bottle that you can use to "touch-up" after a couple of washes, to keep the shine. Be sure to wash the car with a car soap, not dishwasher soap.... or by-by wax!
on another forum. What happened to "Auto Lotion" by Blue Coral, haven't seen it lately? Does it cause any problems? It is a product that can be used to shine all body parts:, paint, plastic, etc. Also I'm not an expert, But here's a tip. I use those cheapo sponges ( about 3" by 5") to apply polish. Since when I'm done I wash them and but them into a zip-lock bag damp. It doesn't mold, stays spongy and works great. Call me a cheap skate. Try it.
Will you people PLEASE give it a rest, for #$%^&& sake!!! How many infantile posts do we have to wade through in this topic to reach informative, interisting material? Is it really that important for you to get the last word in? You all have your own opinions and preferences, and you're not likely to sway the others. LET IT DIE!
I was wondering what product, or how should I remove swirl marks on a white, clear-coated car? Hopefully, the product will cost UNDER $15. In addition, I tried Meguiar's Cleaner Wax, Mother's Carnauba Wax, Meguiar's Gold Class Prep & Swirl Reducer, and nothing seems to work! Your help and comments will be appreciated! Thanks!
Mike, I would try 3M Imperial Hand Glaze next...I have used and recommended this product...everyone seems to like it...and its under $15...available at Pep Boys...3M also I believe make a product specifically for removing "swirl marks"...which I would try afterwards if the 3M IHG wasn't abrasive enough...Good Luck! PS: of course, you need to follow up with wax afterwards... Vern
Changes (deleted posts, new topics, new posts) on the old site between sometime Wednesday night and the point on Friday afternoon that this site went live did not make it here.
Bruce will be along shortly to take care of whatever needs to be re-done.
Meanwhile I am glad to see that so many us have survived, er... are continuing to survive? :-) the turbulence of the trip!
My manual said to apply silicone grease to the weatherstrip every 6 months. What is this stuff? I tried my local Pep Boys, but the only silicone lube comes in a spray can. I am not sure if this is the same stuff. By they way, what does this stuff do? Why should I be applying this stuff to my weatherstrip?
What constitute weatherstrip any way? Is it the rubber stuff along the door? Or do I also have to include the rubber bits around the Wind shield and windows?
I just bought a '01 Honda Civic yesterday. As expected, the dealer extolled the virtues of several add-on protection packages each in the $200 - $500 range, all of which I declined after reading various advice at edmunds.com and elsewhere. One item was a fabric protection treatment, I forgot the name but it is supposedly superior to Scotchguard (tm). He claimed scotchguard leaves a crusty film coating the fabric, whereas his magical stuff penetrates the fibers rather than just coating the surface. Now, I'm looking at my (currently) spotless car and I'm wondering if he really did have something better. Does anyone out there have a do-it-yourself aftermarket fabric protection treatment they like? And, if so, where might I buy it? Thanks for any hints!
While waxing my car with NuFinish, I accidently got some on the plastic trim. I purchased some Mother's Back to Black to try to get rid of it.
Mother's Back to Black is a white liquid that one apply to the trim and then wipe it off and buff it out. Since it was white, I assumed that it was a cleaner.
Well, I apply it to the trim and the white stuff disappear, so I thought it successfully remove the Nufinish. A few days later, it rained, and the white stuff came back. This mean the stuff didn't actually clean the trim, but covered it up. To make things worse, whatever it is isn't waterproof. I don't really want to reapply this stuff after every rainstorm, so it's useless.
I guess I'll try using the peanut butter trick next. Let's hope I won't be attacked by rabid squirrels.
I was trying to rid the discussion entirely of this useless "thread". I did it once in Well Engaged and then when they transferred the data over, 3/4 of the stuff I deleted came back on this board.
Sorry if I came off too hard, after it seems the whole deal died down.
Actually, I intend to delete my own post in a few days. There's no need to leave the wound open, people come by later and read it and say..."Huh"?
I can no longer get to this forum (or any other) from the key word search function. When I try, it jut takes me to the large conference sup-topic listings where I have to scroll down until I find the conference (I had identified in key word search). Any idea when we'll get this funtion back?
Exactly what key word(s) are you searching on? Are you using the box below "Board Search" at the top left of this page? What page are you on when you do what you do?
The Search feature is being refined, so changes will come. But let me know exactly what you are doing so I can give it a try myself and see what you are seeing.
jpbeale I have used ScotchGuard for many years with NO ill results. It may leave a "stiffness" on the fabric at first, but it goes away as soon as it is touched or sat on. Son't worry about this - the protection is awsome. There is no "crusty" layer. Don't forget to do the floor mats.
The problem is that 3M now feels that Scotchguard is a danger to the Ozone layer, and has discontinued it's production. I would hit your hardware store and stock up.
I think the problem is that my book marks are taking me to the "old" search function. I would bookmark a topic search that I had performed and then find my way to several forums from there. When I would try and open up a specific topic on these old pages it would take me to the new conference board instead of the specific topic, like sedans, etc. instead of Paint and Body Care.
I'm finding the search funtion to be working when I go into it from one of the new pages. I'll update all my bookmarks.
Okay, I'm sure that will help. You can come visit us over on News and Views board in this discussion: New Software! Your Questions Answered... if you have any more questions.
I asked the dealer about the silicone grease, they said the spray or the tube stuff will work, but they also said that once I apply it, I will have to keep applying it or the rubber will dry out and rot. Huh?
dielectic stuff. It is mainly required for boots on plug wire boots to prevent arcing. The stuff is out of control expensive. Another case of a know-nothing dealer type person.
Hmm... After some checking around, it appears that the lube's main purpose is to prevent the rubber from sticking to the door frame. I suppose it reduces wear by reducing friction with the door. On the other hand, I am not sure it's that important. I had an 11 year old car and the weatherstrip wasn't decaying.
The bit about silicone causing the rubber to crack seemed to have came from Armor all. Supposely, if you spray armor all on stuff, you'll have to keep applying it or the rubber will dry out and crack. Since I have never use armor all, I am not sure if this is true.
I have found the best for black trim is a good tire treatment. I am currently using Turtle Wax 2001 Tire Gel. It dries hard, not greasy, and only needs to be applied once a month or so. The trim and all exterior black rubber and plastic looks brand new. Do not use it on weatherstripping around the doors, this rubber needs to stay soft.
I tried Armor All years ago, and don't recommend it. It stays oily and attracts dirt. Inside use Lemon Pledge for plastic, vinyl, chrome and leather.
Do you know if Turtle Wax 2001 Tire Gel will get grayed rubber trim black again? I have a friend with a 91 Volvo wagon who has tried several products to accomplish this - none last more than a few days (if that long).
Driving my son's 1997 Jimmy when a piece of metal flew from the car in front and hit the bumper. Got home and noted that it cracked the bumper on the L front and that the crack in the plastic? was extending up to the top of the bumper. It looks like the bumper is a one piece affair. Any way to bond this or does the entire bumper need to be replaced? Thanx for the input.
Sorry I don't know if the tire gel will restore the black again to grayed trim. Howver there are products that will - such as the Black Chrome mentioned by alcan above. One the oils are restored to the plastic, then it will be easy to keep black and shiny with the tire gel.
A good body shop should be able to repair it. Front and rear bumper covers on my car were split courtesy of mall parking lot drivers. Had them repaired and the covers painted, and I can't find the cracks now.
Was just reading previous posts of Zaino discussion. Question... I just bought a 2001 Civic EX a week ago. Is it "clear-coated" paint or "regular" paint. LOL, I'm such a girl when it comes to cars sometimes!! But I have waxed my own cars, with sore arms the day after. Zaino sounds bueno to me! If I buy $25+ worth of stuff, I get a free applicator from Zaino. Hmmm... What else should I buy? Don't think I'm going for the ClayBar stuff, since my car is so new. Appreciate your guidance to keep my new car shiny.
Comments
I'm just an average guy who loves his cars, and I've tried many different products over the years, from Turtle Wax to Eagle One to Meguiers to Zaino. First off, any non-abrasive wax or polish will add years to the life of your paint and will make cleaning easier. Second, you can spend $6 for some turtle wax and Windex and your set, or you can spend $75 or more for a complete set of Meguiers or Zaino car care products. Most people start with the $6 investment, and depending on how much they become ...obsessed? ... they migrate to other, better, more expensive and more specific products. Products especially for rubber, others for plastic, base coats of wax, top coats, etc.
There are two things going for polymer polishes over waxes. They last longer and they repel dust better. Waxes on the other hand have traditionally given a better shine and greater depth to the finish. However, there is a whole new world of polymers out there these days that seem to shine nearly as well as waxes and last longer.
And then there is Zaino. I'm a realtively new Zaino user and I am just crazy about it. I try to wash my car very week, and I used a "top-coat" wax after every wash. I had been a dyed in the wool Meguier's user for a long time, and still have a closet full of their products. [Actually I still believe that their low abrasion cleaning and glazing products made for the professional shop are still the best out there.] But I am absolutely sold on the Zaino polishes.
Both my wifes car and my car got the full deep cleaning, old wax stripping, claying, 7-coat Zaino polishes for hiding swirel marks (Z5) and giving the best high gloss (Z2)and I have never been happier with a car product before. I've actually begun to wash the car less often because they do not get as dusty as fast as they used to. The dust just seems to slide off. The gloss and depth is the best I've ever attained. And I do not use the top-coats after each wash anymore.
But you will not see these kinds of results without hours of work. For me, it truely is a happy time. I love caring for our cars like this. If instead, you opt for a wash and a quick 1 coat of polish, the car will still look great and the 1 coat will provide lots of protection, for a long time. It just won't be up to that show-car kind of finish.
Even if you decide not to use the Z-products, visit their web page for some great car care info. zainobros.com, and look at the meguiers.com as well.
And at the very least, get a coat of tutle wax on that new car!
I am a Z user and try to respect everyone else's conviction to and opinion of the products they use - so no one start anything.
All products take some work, there is no easy solution. Actually, there is and I suggest you do this:
Pickup up the phone book and call a detail shop. Pay them the money and pick the car up when it's done. That should get you through the winter. Then you can decide what to do next spring.
How long should it be left on the paint?
How to remove it? By towel or water?
How many times you should glide the clay bar against the paint?
Is there any extra thing to consider in applying the clay bar? Is Meguiar's a good choice for this?
Thank you.
Brenda
Be REALLY careful about dropping the clay bar. It is guaranteed you will drop it at least once, as it is very slippery with the lubricant on it. Put down a shower curtain or trash bag so WHEN it falls, it will not pick up some dirt or grit off the dround or driveway that you will then use to scratch up your paint!
It is really amazing how smooooth the car will be. I first heard about it from a very high end detailer that told me that he would never wax a car without claying it first, so I started reading about it and used it on my new Solara with GREAT results.
Brenda
Brenda
I've used Clay Magic and Zaino clay products. I did not notice much of a difference between the clay itself, but I like Zaino's instructions better as they describe how to make up tons of lubricant from their car soap and water. I have not tried Meguier's clay, but all of their other products are top-drawer and they make many profesional products for body shops and detailers.
If your paint is not in the best of shape, has heavier scratches and oxidation, I'd advise using a slightly abrasive product like one of the Meguire's Paint or Clear Coat cleaners or glazes instead of, or before claying. Claying works best when the paint is in relatively good shape and your really after the surface dirt, rather than the defects in the finish.
Brenda
Michael
Different brands. I don't think it is so much what you use as much as you use something regularly. People who care about their cars find the time to regularly wash, clean, and polish/wax. That is what makes a car continue to look good. The last 5% in looks usually isn't worth it, realistically, but if that's your "thing" then go for it. I'm not a Z guy, but maybe in the future, but I want to see first hand results before I plunk down that kind of money. I understand Mr Hanley's perspective as I had a similar result when comparing Kit carnuba to Malm's. Sometimes the result isn't as great as the hype. Use what makes you happy, just do it regularly.
Brenda
Thanks,
Al
Michael
I would try 3M Imperial Hand Glaze next...I have used and recommended this product...everyone seems to like it...and its under $15...available at Pep Boys...3M also I believe make a product specifically for removing "swirl marks"...which I would try afterwards if the 3M IHG wasn't abrasive enough...Good Luck!
PS: of course, you need to follow up with wax afterwards...
Vern
I'm having some problems with the seach function since Friday pm as well.
Changes (deleted posts, new topics, new posts) on the old site
between sometime Wednesday night and the point on Friday
afternoon that this site went live did not make it here.
Bruce will be along shortly to take care of whatever needs to be
re-done.
Meanwhile I am glad to see that so many us have survived, er... are
continuing to survive? :-) the turbulence of the trip!
Pat/Roving Host
My manual said to apply silicone grease to the weatherstrip every 6 months. What is this stuff? I tried my local Pep Boys, but the only silicone lube comes in a spray can. I am not sure if this is the same stuff. By they way, what does this stuff do? Why should I be applying this stuff to my weatherstrip?
What constitute weatherstrip any way? Is it the rubber stuff along the door? Or do I also have to include the rubber bits around the Wind shield and windows?
Paul
Bottom line is, I agree with "alcan" above.
PJ, DNAN and J166; please take it offline. The rest of us are tired of hearing you bicker.
Your host, Bruce.
Mother's Back to Black is a white liquid that one apply to the trim and then wipe it off and buff it out. Since it was white, I assumed that it was a cleaner.
Well, I apply it to the trim and the white stuff disappear, so I thought it successfully remove the Nufinish. A few days later, it rained, and the white stuff came back. This mean the stuff didn't actually clean the trim, but covered it up. To make things worse, whatever it is isn't waterproof. I don't really want to reapply this stuff after every rainstorm, so it's useless.
I guess I'll try using the peanut butter trick next. Let's hope I won't be attacked by rabid squirrels.
Paul
Sorry if I came off too hard, after it seems the whole deal died down.
Actually, I intend to delete my own post in a few days. There's no need to leave the wound open, people come by later and read it and say..."Huh"?
Your host, Bruce
page? What page are you on when you do what you do?
The Search feature is being refined, so changes will come. But let me know exactly what you are doing so I can give
it a try myself and see what you are seeing.
Pat/Roving Host
I have used ScotchGuard for many years with NO ill results. It may leave a "stiffness" on the fabric at first, but it goes away as soon as it is touched or sat on. Son't worry about this - the protection is awsome. There is no "crusty" layer.
Don't forget to do the floor mats.
The problem is that 3M now feels that Scotchguard is a danger to the Ozone layer, and has discontinued it's production. I would hit your hardware store and stock up.
I'm finding the search funtion to be working when I go into it from one of the new pages. I'll update all my bookmarks.
Pat/Roving Host
G.M. recommends Dielectric Silicone Grease (Part No. 12345579 or equivalent) in a tube to condition and preserve weatherstrips.
Paul
The bit about silicone causing the rubber to crack seemed to have came from Armor all. Supposely, if you spray armor all on stuff, you'll have to keep applying it or the rubber will dry out and crack. Since I have never use armor all, I am not sure if this is true.
Paul
I tried Armor All years ago, and don't recommend it. It stays oily and attracts dirt. Inside use Lemon Pledge for plastic, vinyl, chrome and leather.
Pat/Roving Host
Thanx for the input.
Doc
Sorry I don't know if the tire gel will restore the black again to grayed trim. Howver there are products that will - such as the Black Chrome mentioned by alcan above. One the oils are restored to the plastic, then it will be easy to keep black and shiny with the tire gel.
Good Luck!
Pat/Roving Host
Suma