Putting Money Into An Older Car

mznmzn Member Posts: 727
How much money is too much money to invest in an
older car? We started this conversation in the News
& Views
conference and we're continuing it here!

carlady/host
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Comments

  • ssoderholmssoderholm Member Posts: 2
    I just got my 1983 Accord back from the shop for the 5th time with the same problem. I had to have my carbeurator rebuilt in November, and ever since then it hasn't worked right. Most of the problems have finally been addressed (I think), but one remains. The owner of the shop keeps telling me the car is doing what it's supposed to, but it seems wrong to me. I need someone else's opinion.

    The problem is this: whenever I start the car, regardless of the ambient temperature (whether it's 50 degress or 80), and even if it's only been sitting for 10 minutes since I last drove it, the idle shoots up to 2000 rpm, where it stays for the first 5 minutes or so of my drive. Then it suddenly drops down to about 500 rpm.

    The owner of the shop keeps saying this is because it's got an automatic choke, and it's supposed to do that, to keep the car from stalling. Well, I have driven a lot of cars with automatic chokes, and I have NEVER encountered one that did this. I have never experienced such a high initial idle, and always before the initial idle has been higher when it's colder out, lower whan it's hotter, and the idle always gradually dropped as the cars warmed up. This is the way my Honda used to be.

    Now, when I'm trying to back out of my parking space or maneuver in parking lots, I'm always having to fight the engine with the brake, since taking my foot off the gas has no effect due to the high idle. Not only does it feel wrong, sound wrong, and have me a little worried about my engine, it's noticeably impacting my gas mileage.

    Is this actually normal behavior for a carbeurator? Should I insist on a new rebuilt one? Should I just accept that this is the way my car will be from now on? I've already taken the car back 5 times, and they've supposedly made adjustments every time, but there's never been an improvement.

    Please help me decide how to proceed. Thank you very much!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    No, it's not right, obviously, since the automatic choke shouldn't even engage with a warm engine. Carburators on older Japanese cars are tough to rebuild, you should really have them factory rebuilt or buy a new one. I think they just don't work out right when the shop rebuilds them.

    Anyway, ask for a replacement. Write them a letter and use the words "dangerous" and "safety" and "lives of little children"...this should get a response. If not, contact the Consumer Affairs Bureau of your local district Attorney and ask them for advice on how to mediate this conflict.

    Also, give the shop every chance to make things right. Be patient with them until you can't get any more satisfaction. They have a hard job, too, and I'm sure they're not trying to cheat you...they probably just don't know what's wrong either...
  • philipphilip Member Posts: 2
    i bought a geo prozm 91 model, and a month later , while the morning start, i feel as if the accelator pedal is stuck up which when pressed tightly, comes back and starts behaving properly. I tired adjusting the rpm for the enginge so thta the car does not shake while stopping at red-lights( i think its idle-speed), but the problem is that more amount of noise now.
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    I agree with Shiftright; be reasonably patient but don't accept the too-fast idle. The problem likely is associated with the choke fast-idle mechanism but I would also check to see if you have a vacuum circuit that is admitting extra air to cause the fast idle. Many cars of this era have complex anti-pollution vacuum circuits, often controlled by solenoid valves or thermostatic devices. One of these could be sluggish, partly plugged with dirt, or was connected improperly when the carb was serviced.

    This may help: Remove the air cleaner housing and familiarize yourself with the vacuum connections to the carb base and intake manifold. Move these tubes around a bit; if you see a broken or rotted tube, replace it. (Be careful to get the correct size.) If they tubing appears to be OK, do the following:

    If it was necessary to disconnect any tubing to remove the air cleaner (which is the case on many cars) plug the end of the open tube(s). Now start the engine, and while it is still in the fast-idle mode, gently move the the appropriate tubes to and fro. If the engine dies, gets distinctly rough, or speeds up, you have located the culprit. If rubber deterioration is not the problem (you may not be able to see it), the device at the other end of tube is very suspect. Let us know what you find.
  • sienasiena Member Posts: 1
    >while the morning start, i feel as if the
    >accelator pedal is stuck up which when pressed
    >tightly, comes back and starts behaving properly.

    This sounds like the same problem I had a few months ago. When I took my car in for its checkup, they told me it was probably goo that had accumulated around the accelerator pedal shaft. They cleaned off the goo, and I haven't had the problem since.

    I was surprised, because it only happened firs thing in the morning. You'd think a sticky goo would affect it all day. But anyway, have a mechanic clean it the next time you have a tuneup.
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    Sorry I left out a key part of the vacuum troubleshooting procedure (#4 above). While manipulating the suspect vacuum tubing during the fast-idle condition, pinch each tube closed with fingers or pliars. If this slows the engine, check that circuit out very carefully.

    Too, use Siena's suggestion to verify that the throttle as well as the pedal linkage are not binding.
  • jwilson1jwilson1 Member Posts: 956
    I have an 89 Maxima closing in on 210,000 miles and last had the timing belt changed at 150,000 -- I want to keep the car for another 40,000 miles and it's time to change the timing belt again. Would you risk NOT replacing the belt to try to save about $350? Thankx.
  • C13C13 Member Posts: 390
    Nope.

    I'd say you're gettin your money's worth out of the car. A small investment in maintenance seems fair.

    If you scrimp on this, at best you'd be trying to sell the car years from now with a $40K overdue belt change. At worst,...too unpleasant to think about.
  • rdeschenerdeschene Member Posts: 331
    jwilson1. A one-time $350 compared to a monthly car payment seems worthwhile, IF the car has been reliable in other ways and it's solid in other ways. i.e. is this the thin edge of the wedge, and are you looking at strut replacement, exhaust replacement, etc. over the next 6months?
  • jwilson1jwilson1 Member Posts: 956
    I agree with you both but needed someone to confirm it, I guess. Thanks, rdeschene and C13, as the car has been exceptional to maintain and I've been very thorough with it for all these miles. Since I've got 40,000 mi. left before I see the last of it, this seemed too soon to start "economizing." But I tend to overdo maintenance (which may be one reason why the car has been so reliable) and wanted to see what you thought. It's appreciated.
  • keghead2keghead2 Member Posts: 6
    Hi, I have 1 94 GMC Sonoma w/ 90,000 miles on it. I've had it since it was new. Kept up with regular maintenance of oil changes, filters, belts and hoses, but no real work on transmission, exhaust, engine, etc.

    I'd like to drive this thing for another 3 years/60K miles. What should I expect in terms of major repairs? Any engine work or Transmission work? It's a 2.2 Liter 4 cylinder with manual transmission.

    I don't mind a few repairs, but I'll be reluctant to put a thousand or more at one time. Your thoughts are appreciated
  • C13C13 Member Posts: 390
    Until somebody shows up with experience with this particular engine, I'll just say continue with what you're doing. I wouldn't expect a well-maintained vehicle like this to have any maor needs or sudden problems.

    Talk to me in 3 yrs. I might make you an offer.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Dear Keghead,

    You should make it okay, I think, but you'd be on the outer limits with a 4-banger. I'd suggest that you do a major transmission service, reduce your oil changes to every 3,000 miles, flush the cooling and brake systems and redo the belts and hoses...that would be a couple hundred bucks well spent to get you through the next 60K. Also, you're probably ready for shocks.
  • rdeschenerdeschene Member Posts: 331
    I don't disagree with Mr. Shiftright's recommendations, money well-spent I would say. I do disagree with the "4-banger" comment though. I had a 4cyl. 1983 Stanza, which was grossly underpowered, and yet it lasted 250 000km/155 000 miles. That's right around the mileage you're talking about.

    Bye for now,
    Rick D.
  • RyannRyann Member Posts: 2
    I'm getting an '88 or '89 Buick Park Avenue with average miles and need to know what parts will be
    nearing the end of their lives. Struts, etc. Thanks in advance.
  • C13C13 Member Posts: 390
    I'd recommend that you ask that question on a board whose topic is closer to your specific subject. Not that many people who are intimately familiar with that particular car are likely to find your post here.

    Look on the sedans board for a topic about this car. You could also start one.
  • RyannRyann Member Posts: 2
    There is no board for older cars. Everyone wants to know whether to buy a Mercedes of a BMW. Let me rephrase the question. I'm sure it falls under the maintainence category. What mechanical parts should be checked before purchasing a circa 1988 car? Struts etc.
  • C13C13 Member Posts: 390
    There's a Park Ave topic, Sedans, 1272. I put a message in there asking if anybody's got experience with an '88. Just dangling a hook in the water. Somebody might nibble eventually.

    However, the advice for any used car is pretty much the same: have a mechanic check out all the major systems. Personally, I think engine compression is about the most important, but they'll look for any other components that look shaky.

    You mention struts. I'd just drive it and check out the ride, and do the bumper-bounce test and look for oil leaks on the struts. Simple stuff; don't even need a mechanic for that. Also, you gotta plan on replacing them if you're gonna keep it for awhile or if the originals are still on there. Just part of the regular maintenance.

    I'd check the rocker panels carefully for rust, listen while driving for squeeks, etc.

    I highly recommend running a check on the VIN.

    If you're really ambitious you could saunter down to a local Buick dealer or 2, tell the service manager that you're looking at an '88 Park Ave and ask if he/she can think off-hand of any major weaknesses in it.
  • jfuquayjfuquay Member Posts: 2
    I owned an '88 LeSabre that got totaled a few years ago, but I had about 110K on it, and here's my experience:
    The car finally developed the infamous GM steering ``morning sickness'' at about 90K. This is a $500+ item if it hasn't already been done. There was an extended warranty on it, but that's long gone by now.

    You can expect the power window supports to fail. I understand this is pretty common. It costs about $60 to fix, unless you've got window tinting, which will get scratched badly and need to be replaced.

    I started having trouble keeping the front wheels aligned toward the end. Never did replace the ball joints, but would have had to do something had the wreck not happened.

    The powertrain was great - no problems whatsoever. I think it's a great engine/transmission.
  • mikek2mikek2 Member Posts: 5
    I've got an 89 Honda Accord with 120,000 km and an 89 Chev Caprice Wagon with 200,000 km that I use like a truck. The Wagon was much more expensive to keep going with the computer controlled carb. However now that I put in an older plain jane OLDS 307 engine (with low mileage) from a junkyard, it hopefully will be cheaper to maintain.
    The Accord continually runs great. However brakes and suspension are weak points and expensive to upgrade.

    When I look at monthly car payments on a new vehicle, repair costs to these vehicles do not seem that great. When I want to go on a long trip I just rent.
  • bob47bob47 Member Posts: 2
    I own a 1985 v/w jetta with 176,000 miles and am beginning to experience some steering wheel vibration. What could be the cause of this problem?
  • joelejoele Member Posts: 6
    I am interested in buying a 85 Honda Accord from a private party. The car has 104,612 miles. The price is $1,200.00. The body/paint is so so and the brakes, clutch, steering feels fine. All the instruments works. Is there anything I should look out for? Those of you who have this car, tell me your experiences. I just a reliable car to get around for the next 3-4 years without any major headache so any advice would be greatly appreciated.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Dear joele,

    These are good cars but I think asking it to run for 3-4 years with no hassles is a lot to ask of a 15 year old car with over 100,000 miles on it and perhaps not the best of care by your description.

    Weakest link in Hondas back then was probably head gasket problems and i suspect that if you run up a lot of miles quickly you're going to have to deal with that around 125K.

    Get the car checked out before you buy it. Have a compression test taken and if it's not really good, pass on the car. Otherwise, make sure it's safe, with good brakes and tight steering, and no major oil or water leaks. Have your mechanic test the clutch, too, as this is another expensive item.

    good luck with it,
  • irby1irby1 Member Posts: 1
    I have a 95 Diamante with 101,000 miles. Still have one year till pay off. I think the transmission will soon need to be overhauled. Is this car worth the investment, or would I be better off to dump the car while I can?
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Well, you won't be able to sell it very easily with a bad transmission,(you're already taking a whopping $2,200 hit off the market value for the high mileage) so if it's really going out, fix it now before you ruin more than necessary...but be sure it really is "going"...you should also consider a used unit since you have such a high mileage car.
  • ralph124cralph124c Member Posts: 36
    Mr. Shiftright: a question for you. A car that I always liked and wanted to own: the 1981-84 FORD T-Bird (Fila designed edition). I saw one in Santa monica, CA last week-what a jewel! What are my chances of located one of these.,and what should I expect to pay?
    The limited edition T-Birds were never big sellers, were they?
  • ralph124cralph124c Member Posts: 36
    Mr. Shiftright:
    I called on the Minn. car-as I suspected, there is some rust on the bottom of the doors (Minn. is a tough place for cars). May I ask how you found it? I've been checking the auto classifieds-none of their search engines will handle the "FILA", so I spend a lot of time looking at other T-Birds. Can you point me toward some dry-climate cars?
    Thanks Much!
  • 84pontiac84pontiac Member Posts: 1
    for 84 Pontiac Bonneville were discontinued by General Motors in 1994, but are unavailable in aftermarket with Soff Seal, Ames, etc.

    Used is what I have now, so junk yard is not an option.

    Any ideas? I'm told 84 LeSabre is a match, but I'm not real convinced.

    GM will not decide when I trade!!!!!!!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Check with a large auto glass restorer in your area, would be my guess. These channels are all pretty standard, and could probably be retro-fit to your car from a similar channel.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Ralph...I found the Fila through the search engine provided by



    shiftright
  • viswanathaniviswanathani Member Posts: 2
    hi all
    i plan to buy a 91 isuzu amigo which has done 112 k.it is a 2wd and the 2.3 liter engine.All i want from this vehicle is a trouble free performance for 2 yrs.i do not want to spend on it .i would be junking it after my graduation in 2 years.what are the problems that plague this vehicle.I need jus a relaible trnsportation.I am getting it for ard 2000.is the price rite.lemme know

    vish
  • gchernya1gchernya1 Member Posts: 43
    Price seems right, but would it be trouble free ?
    Who knows? If it's manual and on the original clutch it's probably time for clutch to go($500-
    $700). Watch for oil consumption. There nothing you can do about it within means, just don't let level fall too low and ruin the engine. Have somebody checked steering components - sometimes it's a life saving pecaution. Last car I bought for $2000 had all current inspections and gravely loose sleeves in the steering.
  • diptidipti Member Posts: 1
    I am an original owner of a 91 Honda Accord LX (bought it in Nov. 1989). Currently has about 56,950 miles on it. Most of the commute to work was short distant, 3 to 10 miles. During the recent oil change, the mechanic inspected the car and found the following problems: #1, Axle boot bands leaking - recomment replace all 4 C/V boots, approx cost $390.00; #2, Oil pan gasket leaking, $185.00; #3, Muffler has small hole --leaking, $235.00 along with B pipe may break when replacing muffler -- rusted badly, $190.00; #4, Rear wheel cylinders starting to leak, no estimate given. I like my car and have taken good care of it. But it is 10 years old and would like to know what other major "fixes" will I have to look forward to. Had the timing belt and the distributor replaced last year. The distributor was a Honda problem/recall and was free. Anyway, I would like to know whether to spend the $1000.00 to $1500.00 to fix the car and keep it or start looking for a new one. I have been debating this issue for a while now and would appreciate any "expert" opinions. Thanks.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Dear dipti,

    Sounds like you should take the car somewhere else for a second opinion. Does the mechanic claim that all four CV "booties" are leaking? Oh, really? That's not too likely. And how bad an oil pan leak? Did he try to tighten the bolts that hold it? If it's just a drip,so what? Let it be?
    And did he pull the rear wheels off to inspect the wheel cylinders? How does he know what the leak is? Is the muffler hole a pinhole or a bad leak? If a pinhole, what about a good slab of high-temp epoxy for 6 months extra use? If a bad leak, have you shopped other muffler specialty shops?

    I think you could square this car away for a lot less than estimated, after all, the miles aren't that much, the car should have lots of life left in it.
  • spokanespokane Member Posts: 514
    I agree with Shiftright that other shops should be consulted. None of the problems mentioned should be ignored but some additional repair estimates should be obtained. This Honda is probably well worth fixing and it can be done for less than your present estimates. The exhaust system leakage is probably due to the many very short trips.
  • rea98drea98d Member Posts: 982
    Whoever told you your car needed all those repairs is a crook! Rear wheels on cars don't have CV boots, simply because they don't have CV joints. A CV joint is a device that lets your front wheels do the steering and push the car foreward. As for the oil pan leak, look at the spot where you usually park the car. See if you have oil on your garage floor. And don't wrooy about the dang muffler. The only thing that does is make the engine quieter, and the expense of gas mileage and horsepower. And any time I took a car in for an inspection, I never had the muffler checked. (Shops are too busy to inspect cars. They make sure your lights and horn wok and send you on your way with an approved state inspection).
  • fontziefontzie Member Posts: 1
    I have a 1993 Honda Accord LX Sedan, manual 5-speed transmission, that currently has 106,000+ miles. Aside from replacing the timing belt @ 90K (scheduled maintenance) and two months ago the front axles (CV boots were shot), maintenance has been cheap & trouble-free...until the past month. I have now learned that, after experiencing an increasing amount of vibration while driving, my transmission is toast and needs to be rebuilt/replaced. Bummer!

    I am willing to put in the money to fix it ($1000+) because I am not in a place to be purchasing something newer, and the car has otherwise been remarkably reliable (I bought it used in '96 with 33K mi.).

    My mechanic and other knowledgeable people have said the Honda trannie should have lasted much longer (150,000 mi.) Does anyone else have different information about the typical lifespan of a transmission in such a car? Or is my situation just an anomaly? I welcome any information. Thanks!
  • quickshiftquickshift Member Posts: 16
    If the transmission is automatic, hard usage on the tranny will make last between 40K and 80K. It seems it is time for a new transmission.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Over 100K for a failure of a Honda transmission is certainly an acceptable service life--some get more, some less, but that's not premature by any means. Changing the fluid in a manual trans every 30,000 or so and adding MTL lubricant may extend service life...I'm pushing 100K on a much more fragile Alfa tranny and it's doing fine with MTL, as did the notoriously fragile trannies on my Saabs.

    You might consider a good used transmission if you could find one with 50-60K on it, since a new transmission may well outlast your car...but only if there is a considerabl savings.
  • bluemistbluemist Member Posts: 23
    I agree that all of those repairs seem excessive, and you should get a second opinion.

    However, even if you do ALL of those repairs, it is STILL much cheaper than buying a new car. If you want to save money, it is MUCH cheaper to repair your current car than it is to buy a new Honda Accord.

    A new Accord will cost you about $430/month if you get a 48-month loan. Do you honestly think you will spend $6,000 to repair your Accord in the next year?

    If you want a new car because of extra options, features THEN it's worth it to just get the new car, but it's not economical to do so as long as your current car functions safely.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    There's only one reason to buy a new car, and it has nothing to do with saving money...it's all about reliability. Me? I'd rather save the $430 a month (really? ouch!!) and risk an occasional breakdown...I got my AAA mileage plus and that beautiful flatbed used to take my Saab regularly to Sven at no charge to me, and you're right, no repairs equaled $6,000 a year, as hard as Sven tried and no matter how fast he wrote. The worst most rotten used car I ever owned (and man, I've owned a lot of cars) ran me about $200 a month to keep going...excessive and annoying, but it wasn't $430!
  • qdrcqdrc Member Posts: 3
    85 toyota celica GT (only 96K miles) which i've had since new has a dying engine (noisy, about to throw a rod in cylinder #4, might be my fault for letting oil go low - shouldn't oil pan light come on first?). I'm told a new one's 3000 (one mechanic only will install that, although he thinks I should give the car to charity - anyone done this), another says, since car worth only about 3000, to install a used one for about 1200 both installed (or, for 300 more, ie 1500, get a one year warrantied used one, which he suggests is checked out, but am not sure if it's really a better checked out engine or if I'm just buying a warrantee, which I fear, may not cover the labor, anyway). Has been a great, great car since I bought it new. Any advice, thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaMember Posts: 64,482
    Depends TOTALLY on the condition of the rest of the vehicle...if it' tattered and banged up a bit and the paint's faded, I'd say probably not. $3,000 sounds very optimistic for your car unless it's a real sweetheart.

    Used engines are good, but you have to keep the labor costs down...what often happens is that during an engine installation it is very tempting (and even smart) to replace hoses, belts, do a tune up, new clutch, oil, filters, steam clean, maybe overhaul the starter and alternator, new water pump...you see what I mean....you can still run up a big bill, so that's why I'm suggesting you honestly evaluate what the foundation is like under your car...if it feels and looks tired, then it's time to let it go..... a decent, clean used car these days will cost you around $6,000, so see if that's in your budget, too.
  • thetexan1thetexan1 Member Posts: 1
    The best thing for you to do is sell that car to a mechanic or a shop for as much as you can get. IE,
    check the blue book value and then subtract the cost of a new engine. Then go out and buy your self another newer dependable car and CHANGE YOUR FLUIDS ON TIME!!!!!!! An engine that is ready to blow up(not to mention that its a Toyota with only 96K) before the body is rusted out is just plain bad judgement on your part. That car should have gone to 200k easily. Please dont take too much offense to what I'm saying but its in your best interest to make sure that your vehicle is maintained. And it could save your life as well as the lives of others on the road. If your engine was maintained that poorly, I dont even want to imagine the condition of your brakes and brake fluid. I obtained my current car from a person just like yourself. A 1991 VW Golf with just 57K on a virtually brand new (garage kept) car. I paid
    $500 for the car because the owner NEVER changed her oil. Remember, you are female but you are NOT
    helpless.
  • dhainingdhaining Member Posts: 2
    Hello,

    I have a 1990 Subaru Legacy LS with all the options. It's been a great car - I'm the original owner. It has 114,000 miles on it. New brakes about a year ago, A/C repaired 2 years ago, new clutch 8 months ago, and it still has the original exhaust system (that amazes me). The doors and windows are still tight, the car handles pretty well (the shocks are probably worn, but it still feels good), sunroof doesn't leak, interior is in good shape.
    I have not had any major problems until now - the "viscous coupler" inside the tranny is seizing after driving for a while (30 - 45 minutes), causing all 4 wheels to turn at the same rate. This is not a problem until I make a sharp turn, and then the inside wheels "bounce" or skid around the turn, kind of like an old 4WD pickup would do. I have talked to a dealer about fixing it, and it would cost about $2,000 to fix it with a new part. Another independent shop thinks they might be able to get a used part, but I don't know the cost of that.
    There is also a wheel bearing noise coming from one of the back wheels. I don't know how much that might cost.
    The question: is it worth fixing, or should I sell it for parts? I have been told it is not a saftey issue to keep driving it as it, but it is a pain in the neck to drive it in the current condition, especially in town. How many miles do people usually get from 1990 Subarus? If I can expect another 100 K out of it, I will probably bite the bullet and fix it, otherwise who knows?
    BTW, the book value is about 3,000 for trade-in, 4,500 retail.
    Thanks in advance for any advice, anyone.
  • car123car123 Member Posts: 1
    I own a 1988 Mazda MX6 which has approx. 89,000 miles on it. I have put approx. $3000. into this car over the last three years replacing parts. I feel like I have almost rebuilt this engine. Recently there was a knocking noise in my engine that my mechanic said was the lifters and cost $42/lifter. I told him to replace only those that needed it. I paid $480. for that, and a half hour after I drove away the noise returned. I went back and asked him if he used cheaper lifters rather than manufacturer's. He did and said he would replace them again and only charge for the lifters. Again, after I drove away the problem recurred. He was baffled and couldn't figure out what was wrong. I finally had a fellow at work, who rebuilds engines to take a look at it. He completely took the engine apart and cleaned every orifice and part, replaced the oil and filter. Alas, no more noise. This car has a new air conditioning, turbo, alternator, oxygen sensor, tires, radiator, and is running fine. I dread the car shopping business but welcome any comments anyone may have on whether or not they would keep the car or buy a new one.
  • mminerbimminerbi Member Posts: 88
    car123, Since your Mazda MX6 is now running fine, IF -- and this is very important -- you like the way the car drives and looks I'd suggest keeping it at this point. I sympathize for all the expense and trouble you went through, but in terms of your decision to keep it or dispose of it, that's in the past.

    Besides the fact that your car is "running fine", my recommendation is influenced by the fact that you "dread the car shopping business."
  • gusgus Member Posts: 254
    Re CV joints: You have two axles, each with two CV joints. Each CV joint has a boot covering it up. The shop must've replaced all four boots, which is not out of line.
  • epoeepoe Member Posts: 56
    I'd wonder if id get a cv boot replaced??? I don't beleive i would. You have to take the shaft out to replace the boot, why not just replace the whole shaft with two new cv joints and 2 new boots? I replaced a front shaft on my 89 corolla, it was about $100 for the shaft @ pep boys.
  • rea98drea98d Member Posts: 982
    I was told that the CV joints are what allow the front wheels to get power from the engine and steer at the same time. I was also told that no RWD cars are equipped with CV joints. Since all the back wheels do is hold the back bumper off the ground, why would they need CV joints (and the boots to cover them)? Don't cars only need 2 of these things?
This discussion has been closed.