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Dodge Dakota Stalling and Dying Problems

245

Comments

  • Are you in a cold weather part of the country?

    Well that depends. I wouldnt consider it a consistent cold weather part of the country. I live in New Jersey. And lately it's been cold. We had less than 10 degrees F 2 months ago. Now were in the high teens to low 50's. F.

    Is your question related to my problem possibly being poor performance of the IAC during cold weather?

    FYI, I bought my Dakota in October 2008. It had 105,000 and now has 108,000. I believe I noticed the stalling way back in October, but assumed it needed a tune-up or something else.

    It wasnt until recently, I started looking into other causes. Of course I always find a wealth of information here ( especially from you ) , and thats why I did a little research here and found what I needed.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    I was just wondering if the problem seems more severe with temperature.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • It may have been more severe as it got closer to winter with the old IAC. However since I replaced it with a new one, everything is smooth as silk even though we are still experiencing cold temps. Truck runs like it's brand new regardless of the temp. My buddy who replaced his IAC ( with a new one ) on his 01' Dakota has the same positive results. It was his results that prompted me to replace mine after cleaning my old IAC didnt last. I guess if the IAC is several years old, it's probably worth replacing it rather than cleaning it.
  • More than likely the crankshaft position sensor as mine seems to have gone and the symptoms seem the same but really a hard part to remove without patience and proper tools. Not too much room to work between the firewall and engine and transmisssion. I've just recently obtained a used one from the wreckers and it worked for all of about a couple of hours the died on the highway again. So now I think I'll spend the bucks and get a new oem replacement and see how long that one lasts?
  • I've owned my 1992 dakota 4x4 5.2 since new and haven't experienced too many problems until recently. It has 192000kms on it and have replaced the transmission, radiator, & water pump. The tranmission hasn't operated as it should since the rebuild by Mr. Transmission, the water temperature hasn't been what it should (both from reading the gauge and inside heater temperature) since replacing oem rad with an aftermarket one, oil pressure switch was replaced as low or flucutating oil pressure was observed, and now the largest and most annoying problem of all has been determining the problem of stalling, rough running backfiring hard starting, intermittent starting, being more than likely due to a faulty crankshaft position sensor. Replaced with a used one from wreking yard didn't last more than a couple of hours and died. Guess it'll be worth spending a few extra dollars on a new oem replacement and see if it last a bit longer?
    Other than that it has been a good and enjoyable truck.
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    You've provide three good examples of why I almost never deal in used parts.

    Crankshaft Position Sensors were of irratic quality in your vintage Mopar motor. Fortunately, after the initial replacements you don't hear of too many failing a second time.

    Still see a number of old Daks on the road. There are two of your vintage in my neighborhood, both have over 180,000 miles on them. A little rusty in spots, but looking a heck of a lot better than any eight-year-old S10!!

    Best regards,
    Dusty
  • dustykdustyk Posts: 2,926
    The following list of symptoms associated with defective Throttle Position Sensors (TPS) on Dodge trucks are a compilation of actual field experiences, both observed and reported:

    off-idle hesitation
    hesitation at speed
    rough engine idle
    intermittent rough engine idle
    rough idle then stalls
    engine RPM fluctuates at idle
    engine RPM flairs after start, then stalls
    engine stalls when placed into any gear
    engine stalls after start unless throttle pedal used
    engine stalls when throttle opened
    engine surges at speed
    engine performance poor: engine misfires under load/acelleration

    irratic shifts
    irratic torque converter unlocking
    irratic or over sensitive 6-5 downshifts at speed (68RFE)
    irratic or over sensitive 5-4 downshifts at speed (545RFE)
    irratic or over sensitive 4-3 downshifts at speed (RE, RLE)
    3-4 driveline clunk
    delayed 1-2 shift
    delayed 3-4 upshift
    3-4 upshifts occurs abruptly after 2-3 shift
    no 3-4 upshift
    no 4-3 downshift
    no kickdown at speed
    no or irratic torque converter lock up
    no or irratic overdrive shift

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • ravenpravenp Posts: 1
    I have a 2000 Dodge Dakota Sport with the V6 magnum, 3.9L and 4X4. The dealer replaced the engine just before I bought it. Both the vehicle and engine have about 89000 miles. Until recently I haven't had any problems with it. The issues that I'm starting to have are squealing belts and stalling. The belts, I replaced the tension pulley and the belt, but it still squeals. The stalling is the problem that worries me most. It only seems to happen, though, on slow left turns, whether the AC is running or not. It seems to idle right aroud 600-700 RPM. And after it stall, it's a pain to get restarted. Could these problems be linked?
  • Hi all, I have a 1990 Dodge Dakota 3.9 V6 Automatic. I have an issue where after starting the truck and letting it run for about 15 minutes it stalls and will not start for about another 30-45 minutes. Now I've replaced everything that I thought it might be and still havent solved the problem. I've replaced the ECM, distributor cap and rotor, auto shutdown relay, fuel pump, fuel filter, coolant temp sensor, and I dont know where to go from here. Please anyone or maybe a mechanic, if you have any info on this I would greatly appreciate it because I'm seconds away from driving it into a lake! Thanks, Mike
  • So, because I am dumb, I took my V8/auto tranny Dakota in to a dealer for it's first tune up and tranny service. The truck was running fine in all respects. I got back a mess. The tranny failed twice after getting the truck back, first the dealer blamed a bad new MOPAR tranny filter, the 2nd failure was a different bad tranny part (sorry can't find the paperwork). All this had the distinct feel of total BS coming from the dealer - as in I think the mechanic screwed up the tranny service royally, and they just wouldn't admit it.

    Anyway - after the 2nd tranny failure, I got the truck back and it immediately began stalling shortly after morning start up - well within the first mile or so of driving, but only after the truck had been sitting a long while - like overnight.

    Here are the exact symptoms.

    Starts normally in the morning (I do not let the engine warm up - start and go, but I tried letting the engine come to temp before go doesn't have an impact on this problem). Drive to the first stop (uphill less than 1/4 mile away) as the truck comes to a full stop, the RPM's drop out and the truck stalls. Truck restarts immediately and does not stall again for the rest of the day.

    Cold engine stalling is intermittent (roughly 50% of the time or less) in temps greater than 65 degrees, and almost always as temps dip below, with coldest winter temps causing multiple stalls, as opposed to just once in the morning, but again, will not continue to stall once warmed up). So the colder it gets, the more consistent and more frequent the cold engine stalling is until the engine warms up and then the engine will not stall for the rest of the day. I can prevent the stalling if I force the rpms to stay up by braking and tapping the gas simultaneously.

    If I take a different route in the morning so I don't hit stop/go traffic while the engine is cold, I don't have a stalling problem (but it's a much longer route, and that's no solution)

    Over the months, the dealer has had the truck back 5 times without success. They reset the computer on the first try, then replaced one of them (can't find the paperwork). Replaced the Oxygen sensor. Beat the engine with a hammer, had a Shaman do a pagan blessing, and then shrugged. I suggested the problem is tranny related because that's where all the troubles started, but the dealer says the tranny is fine.

    Lawyers are expensive, and I just want my truck fixed.

    Suggestions would be enormously appreciated.
  • Hey i am having the same problems..... I was wondering if maybe you came across the problem... [email protected]
  • I have a 99 5.2 and its doing the same thing.....im in the same boat your are and i was wondering if that relay had anything to do with it....?? [email protected] thanks!
  • I too have had a problem with stalling when the engine is cold. I have a 99' dakota with the 3.9 and a manual trans. This problem has existed for a while but it was more pronounced in the winter. I was reading these posts and since the truck need a new battery I picked up a new IAC valve at the auto part store while I was there. (cost about $30) I took the old valve out, cleaned the port that it was seated in with some carb cleaner since it was quite gummed up. I put the new valve in and my truck runs like a champ again. I hope that I never have to take that valve out again because I stripped one the screws when I was installing the new one. Good Luck.
  • '99 Dakota w/5.2 engine and auto trans. 110k miles. Problem started after hard acceleration and braking to stop. The torque converter or transmission did not disengage when I stopped and the engine died. Will run with jerky shifts after I shift into gear under power but still locks up and kills engine after highway run. No Codes present. Replaced TPS and IAC motor. Rear Band has a lot of play in the adjustment. No pieces in oil pan, normal Iron sludge stuck to magnet.

    Researched threads for solutions:
    1.Clogged filter/lines
    2. Rear band misadjusted
    3. Broken Clutch spring (no evidence in pan or filter)
    4. bad front clutch (how do I check)
    5. stuck servo (how do I check?)
    6. valve body problem
    7. broken Planetary Gearset (no evidence in Pan)
    8. locked torque convertor clutch

    Planning on making band adjustments, replacing filter and running to check. Or should I just go ahead and disassemble the thing?

    Could this be a band adjustment issue or do I have a failed (locked)torque convertor? Since there's no codes I'm thinking the electronics are o.k. I heard valve body check balls shrink and fail?

    Help
  • Recently I had to replace a throw out bearing in my dodge dakota 4x4 3.9. I forgot to remove the crank position sensor and broke it off while removing or installing bell housing, found out when truck would not start. Replaced it and started fine, hesitated a second and ran fine till the next day, had too pull over and nurse the gas do too very rough idle and power lose, got it going and drove 30 miles and it hesitated a split second. Next day drove 2 miles started running rough jerking, pulled over rough idle when started. left it over night and it started right up and drove 2 miles did the same thing. Replaced distributor cap and rotor, nothing. Pulled IAC, very dirty, started truck idled great, shut it off for 10 minutes, tried to start it again, woul not stay running. Replaced IAC, same roughness. Changed crank position sensor know starts but runs rough like all cylindes not firing. Help I'm losing it...LOL
  • I just joined and I know your post was months ago. I have had the same problem and scanned my computer and found that I had no crank position signal. I assumed it would be a crank position sensor but found that even though the dealer and the parts store said I had one, I found that a 1990 dodge 3.9L does not. The loss of signal was coming from the coil pick up located inside the distributor. I hope this helps.
  • I found out that the new crank position sensor was bad(1st one) got another and in fired right up, Thanks for the reply
  • Also it helps too change out the foul plugs from repeated engine starts during trouble shoooting..LOL
  • Hey guys a have a 95 Dak with a 3.9. It will run for about 45 minutes and die. When it dies it wont start for a few hours. It has a new computer, new crank sensor, new coil and is gettin fuel. When i had it diagnosed it said it was the crank sensor. So i put another new on in it and it still does it...........Ohh yeah i all the wires runnin up to the relay box are good. I done checked all those too. I need help guys.
  • jfred2jfred2 Posts: 1
    Cold start is OK, Idle or driving. Once the engine temp starts to come up, the
    idle gets rough and will stall when throttle opens. When I can come off idle
    in neutral, I can hold a fast but very erratic RPM. There are no trouble codes,
    and fuel presure is good. exhaust cat. is not resticted, Ig. distributor is tight,
    Complete tune-up, fuel filter, crank sensor, tps, charge air sensor, coolant temp
    sensor and distributor switch plate have been replaced. Prior to this problem,
    the truck was running great at 150,000 miles. It just acted up, now I don't know
    my next act. ( 1992 5.2 4wd auto )
    jfred2
  • my 2001 dakota stall when it run for 30 minutes can u help
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Vacuum leak, from a cracked vacuum hose maybe?
  • My 2005 Dodge Dakota (Quad Cab 2wd) check engine light came on this past Monday evening. Called my dad & he wanted to get "the codes". However, he could not get a code. I called made an appointment with my mechanic for Saturday-my truck seemed to be running fine! On Friday, I was sitting idle for appx 4 minutes & I began to accelerate and the truck wanted to die. I started home and within a mile my truck died. I tried to start it & moved a few feet & stalled. I did this many times to get off the main road. I called AAA & truck towed to local dealer :( Tow truck driver drove it off the ramp & service manager drove it in the shop. After diagnostic - EGR valve & Cam sensor (?) was the verdict. I have an extended warranty & I asked if it was covered, his answer was "EGR valve is, There are some maintenance issues" I asked "like what?" (Because I keep up with my maintenance in my truck.) He said "Ya know, spark plugs, tune ups". OK... well is the Cam sensor covered & he said that is what they are trying to figure out because of the maintenance issues. WHAT??? I dont have more than 55k miles. I am sure if there were those type of issues my mechanic would tell me. I keep up on the oil changes, etc! What does he mean by the 2nd part... what would the maintenance have to do with the failure of that Cam sensor?
    Thanks
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    what would the maintenance have to do with the failure of that Cam sensor?

    Not a dang thing!
  • I didnt think so... well I will hear his explanation tomorrow! sigh... Thank you for your reply!
  • What did this turn out to be, or did you ever get a fix, cause my truck does the same thing exactly.
  • EGR valve & Cam sensor was the problem... new spark plugs too! UGH! Not covered by warranty. including an oil change $790 from the dealership...
    Good luck to you!!!!
  • e_grante_grant Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 92 Dakota. Took it in for a complete tune up and system check. Now when I start the truck,it revs to 2800 rpm and stays there until I either shift to another gear or stomp the accelerator a couple times. Once on the road, it is fine until I come to a stop. That is when the engine tries to stall. Im kinda confused because it seems to be one problem with 2 different symptoms.
  • redexpressredexpress Posts: 1
    edited April 2010
    1990 Dakota 3.9l. Idles rough gave it plugs wires cap rotor replaced the computer and O2 sensor fuel pressure reg and the M.A.P. sensor.When idling rough it's dumping way to much fuel insted of a light mist it's flowing like it's wide open.Cat. after about 10 min. starts glowing red from excive fuel the cats not clogged.Any ideas out there.
  • elwellelwell Posts: 6
    My Dakota has recently started to dye out at idle and at highway speeds. While traveling at highway speeds it will re start while still in drive. At slower speeds it needs to be put into neutral and cranked over and generally starts within seconds. Sometimes acts right for miles, sometimes dies out many times. Runs smooth not rough. Ignition dropping out? Thats what I think. 1990, 3.9 V-6, auto, Throttle body, 167,000k. Wondering if anyone else has had this problem and is it common to this model/year. Any suggestions or experience that you could share? No codes after "key dancing" Just 55 meaning check is over. Thanks...Elwell
  • cactus93cactus93 Posts: 10
    Dusty,
    Hi, I need your advice on this please.

    I Have a 2000 Dakota Quad Cab, 4.7L 4X4.

    In my earlier post the advice I was given by the dealer and one transmission shop was that my torque converter was slipping during interlock. The problem was more noticeable after my tires got balanced. When truck in neutral or at any speed smooth, no tire balance problems. Now in an attempt to get a third opinion, one shop advised that I have a clogged fuel injector. They claimed computer showed, pass side bank was running a little rich. He concluded the torque converter was not bad after getting the truck to breakdown or sputter without the interlock engaged at any speed as long as motor rpms were below 2500. Now I can feel it too. He advised STP fuel injector cleaner at a high concentrate and blow it out on the freeway. After doing just that with no change in sputter (actually after a few passes on the freeway with a very heavy foot it sputtered worse). After that he felt a clogged injector or failing injector was the problem. I bought two injectors and he put them in, no change, he moved them and still no change.
    **Please note that during all this I have no engine code.
    He also replaced the TPS, no fix. Another mechanic felt that one of the coils might be breaking down. I bought one and put it in and test drove it in all 8 positions, no fix.

    To date, the symptoms and attempted fixes have been as follows:
    First felt vibration at 45 mph
    Started feeling it more, went to dealer.
    Drove a week and began to feel more noticeably.
    After fuel injector cleaner, no fix, maybe worse.
    The problem feels like a very week spark or misfire below 2500 rpms, also slight sputter or hesitation during hard acceleration.

    First Diagnostic:
    Transmission fluids slightly dirty, had them change it.
    Old worn plugs, changed myself with exact replacements and proper gap settings (0.40).
    Tires out of balance, Balanced them.
    Flash Updates for ECM and TCM, updated them.
    Went home $450 lighter, still not fixed.

    Second Diagnostic:
    Torque Converter slipping during interlock. Both stated by dealer and first tranny shop.
    or possible bad TCM (no codes)

    Third Diagnostic:
    Got engine to "misfire or sputter" without interlock engaged, not torque converter.
    Clogged injector, ran truck hard with double dose of STP, no fix.
    Bought 2 injectors and moved them around, no fix.

    Fourth Diagnostic:
    Possible bad or faulty coil, bought one and played ring around the motor, no fix.

    Please help!!
    Currently I'm out over $600 and fells worst than when I started.
    No OBD codes.

    Thanks for your help,
    Jason
  • pammeepammee Posts: 1
    Maybe changing the FUEL FILTER will help.
  • dom11dom11 Posts: 1
    hi my 92 dodge was dying randomly dying and the fuel gauge was stuck on full i replaced the pump and it worked great for 20 min then the gauge got stuck on full again but has stopped dying i have heard that it could be the ground wire or relay so how do find the ground and fix it
  • dockivdockiv Posts: 1
    My v6 Dakota has a very pronounced engine miss/jerk when the cruise control is on.I just had new plugs and wires installed. Any ideas? Also stalls in reverse when A/C is on??
  • bcbaxterbcbaxter Posts: 5
    Hey I am having the exact problem and my mechanic has now cleaned my throttle body and I have changed the MAP and TPS sensors with no fix.... now my mech is running tests on the torque converter as well as the IAC.... honestly i am really hoping it is the IAC because i bought this 2000 dakota quad cab 2wd 4.7 with 98k two months ago and so far the a/c compressor locked up and then this whole situation with the stalling. I am now debating on reselling the truck as soon as its fixed and trying again with another truck.
  • elwellelwell Posts: 6
    Athough my Dakota is a 1990, it's 3.9 with auto was dying while running and then starting again after a min. If traveling fast enough, it would dye and jerk and restart itself while still in drive. Finally changed the distributor and it's module and that did the trick. Modules come premounted in the distributor. $60! Autozone.
  • rtjmortjmo Posts: 2
    edited July 2010
    Hello,

    I have 98 Dodge Dakota 4 X 4. For the last 12-18 months I have had problems with the motor cutting off as I am driving. I have had new plug wires, new PCM, new Cat convertor. Had numerous mechanics look at it, including dealership who replaced the PCM for $700.00. Still same problem. It cuts off at different intervals, hot cold, freshly started or after running for a while. Besides being irritating, it is very dangerous. Had a couple of close calls because of this. If can't find an answer here, will junk it.

    Hope someone can help.

    Thanks in advance,
  • elwellelwell Posts: 6
    My 1990 Dakota did exactly the same thing as you describe. Very hard to troubleshoot. In the end it was the distributor and or module within. $60 at Autozone. Never had another problem.
  • bcbaxterbcbaxter Posts: 5
    have your mechanic check to see if the torque converter is stuck on the tranny that could make it die when you come to a stop kinda feels as if you are being pushed slightly from behind. or get him to check the IAC motor sometime they get stuck. My mechanic is checking them right now on mine will post when i get an answer. And when i get mine fixed im selling it....
  • well my mechanic didn't fix anything and i have no clue what to do..... i hate this truck.
  • elwellelwell Posts: 6
    I'll post this again. I was very glad when my Daktoa nightmare ended and it was not an easy troubleshoot. BUT. Mine is a 1990 3.9 V6 with auto...180000mi. Yea it started dying out and became more and more frequent. It would start back up after a few mins. Many dangerous stalls in traffic. Turned out to be the distributor and module within. $60 at autozone. Running great ever since!
  • rtjmortjmo Posts: 2
    Hi,

    I am with you on this one. Never own another Chrysler product again. So wish I had traded when they had the cash for clunkers deal. Now guess I will sell it to the junk yard. Sorry about yours, I certainly know how frustrating it is!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
  • So anybody have any answer to my situation.... a 90 v6 isn't the same type engine.
  • Hey any news on how to fix the problem
  • Howdy everybuddy!!

    I have a dodge dakota with a world of hurt. Let me tell ya'll a story...

    I've just had (2 weeks ago) a "quieter" muffler put on my 'Kota so as not to wake up my neighbors any more. I was also told that my rear end was going out and that I should use it until it just starts acting plain silly. Also, I told the mechanic that I was having surging issues in the morning pulling out of the driveway. He told me it was the IAC solenoid (motor) (located behind and on the throttle body by the distributor cap). I have somewhat above average mechanic skills (I have owned a Dakota for 10 years, I think that would make anybody and above average mechanic, ya'll agree? :P ) and I bought one at the local parts place and installed it after giving the throttle body a complete cleaning. (Used only throttle body cleaner and did not spray the MAP sensor, TPS sensor, or the IAC solenoid to clean them).

    The surging kind of went away but was not perfect. But, what the hey, it's running and I got to get to work to pay the bills.

    Welp, work sent me out to Jasper last Tuesday (from Houston) and I really didn't want to go, but they pay drive time, so I went anyways. BIG MISTAKE.

    This is where the story gets good...

    So I'm driving up whatever road from I 59 to Jasper and my truck starts making a rusty bits and pieces noise (kind of like those old little kid marble pop up vacuum cleaners) under my rear passenger seat and it's hesitating and bogging down really bad. So much so that at it times it stalls and I have to pull over to the shoulder and let it rest a minute or two before it reluctantly starts up. I have an almost year old alternator from Azone installed so I'm starting to think a bad fuel pump (3 years old) or plugged up cat or muffler. But no back fires as of yet.

    I make it to my job, finish it and work now has me going to Dallas. I take my truck to O'Reily's for a check engine code (they don't scan vehicles BTW, they said go to Autozone) I was going to warranty out my plugs, caps, and rotors when the lady behind the counter had asked if I had even checked the wires for continuity. I said no, and went back out to my truck, got my volt/ohm meter and started playing with the plug wires. Plug wires will not give continuity, but they will give resisitance and as all wires are various lengths, not one will be the same as the other. So, the only thing I could check was for breaks in the wire. I stuck the red lead in one end of one plug wire and stuck the black lead in the other end of the same plug wire. I started making waves and circles and various other shapes and angles one could make with a plug wire. None of them, including the coil wire brought the resistance up to an open circuit. I went back in, bought another can of throttle body cleaner (as I had bought one 2 days prior to do the throttle body cleaning as mentioned above) and emptied the entire can into the intake manifold (airhat off of course and straight down both barrels with the truck manually revved by hand (looking from front, left side accelerator cable) naturally I didn't stand in front of the truck while doing this ;) ) That lasted for awhile (30 minutes of driving) but it started acting up like before.

    Note: I have had an occasional misfire in cylinder 3 and 4 and it's brought up a trouble code. But it was very infrequent and once I let the truck rest it never happened again for like another month. Just some extra information in case this story might be similar to yours. Also, pulling out of my work's warehouse, I would on rare occasions, get that bogged down engine symptom.

    Now I'm driving to Dallas and it's really acting up. I'm getting more frequent missing and bogging down and it's trying to stall on me. I can step on the gas pedal with little change to what's going on. It eventually gets itself out of what it was doing or it stalls. Which by now, I've found out I can put the thing in neutral and start it all the while I'm coasting down the freeway with no steering assistance from the steering pump. I pull into the Azone along the highway and they pull up the codes and they read "primary, secondary coil failure; random misfire; misfires in 2,3,4,6". Azone guy bets bottom dollar the coil is bad and this is the problem. I can't help but agree.

    So I buy the coil, run over to the Wal-mart next door, park the truck under a lamp (it's about 8 p.m. now) and run inside to get myself some tasty beverages and snacks for the chore ahead. I also buy one of those fits all 3/8 socket wrench and socket things, has the alligator on the top of the package.

    NOTE: I have to say that the wrench actually worked. I used it on the belt tensioner to take the belt off and it didn't mess up the socket. I used it all over and as far as I can say, the thing works. It wouldn't work on say some of the smaller nuts from like a 9 or 8 mm on down. But I think they make a smaller one with smaller bits for those jobs. The only thing that would be a con on such a product is where the diameter over all or length to clearance would be a factor. This one is about an inch total wide and about a deep socket depth long.

    After about an hour and a half of fighting rusted out bolts on the coil and coil bracket, I finally get it all back together only to realize I bought the wrong coil. I previously installed a MSD ignition system but for the longest time I'd been getting crappy gas mileage ( I personally think there was a problem way back then too though (4 years ago)) so I took it off but put an older model Dakota coil and coil harness (because you have to cut the one off when you put in the MSD ignition) on because that's just what the junk yard had available. I went back over to the Azone and luckily they were still open. Bought the right coil, replaced it and low and behold (after resetting the computer .. negative battery cable off, iginition turned on for 30 seconds, negative battery cable on) everything was running great. Still had a little miss once and again, but everything was A okay.

    I make it into Dallas and the hotel and I think to myself. I want some eggrolls and tacos from Jack in the Crack before I retire. I drove off to the Box only to have my truck stall in the Drive thru Lane. G***********D F***********CKING D**********MN ****************T!! I have to wave people behind me to get out of the way as my truck rolls back out of the drive thru and into a parking space. I've got people looking and laughing as I try to start my truck. No such luck. I'm thinking great. If I just would have been happy with my cookie and water waiting for me back at the hotel, I wouldn't have to be here. After about 3 or 4 more tries it starts and then the loudest backfire I've heard yet (there's still more story) launches out the [non-permissible content removed] end of my truck only to my amusement as I see the people in the drive thru sh*tting themselves. I wasn't in
  • I wasn't in a good area of town btw. I think they call the area.. Dallas if I'm not mistaken..HA I went back to the hotel and ate my stale cookie. Yum. I looked up online what could be the problem and there were many posts about the cam shaft sensor causing problems like the ones I was experiencing.

    The next day my fuel gauge just stops working yet other electrical devices are working. Weird. My truck stalls. I start it back up and now everything is okay again. I first goto Azone for a cam shaft sensor (the plastic ring that sits under the rotor and is held in place by the distributor cap) and they don't have an end that matches what I got in my truck. Great, it's off to the dealership. After a 300% mark up on a 30 dollar part and about 20 minutes of work. I rush out of the parking lot only to find that this was still not the cause of my problems. I goto my next job and finish it. Now work wants me to drive up to McKinney. Great. (I only have clothes for one day. My balls are pretty rank by now. Just a little FYI)

    I make it up there and now it's too late to work because the job is closing for the day. I run by the autozone up there and they said my alternator was putting out no output. What? I removed the positive battery cable and my truck is still running. (apparently, with the new OBD II, that no longer is a good indicator that your alternator is good/bad). He said I need to clean all my battery terminals, check the connection on my alternator (the B+). Which I did to no avail. I drove down to O'Reillys and told them to check the alternator which they did and said it was putting out 76 amps ( I bought the more amperage alternator when I changed it out the last time) His thoughts on the matter was that my transmission was not dropping down and that if it continued it might just very well be the problem. I still don't know why one parts store had different readings than the other, unless of course Azone's alt checker was bad. That's another thing too people. People in the know, may sometimes not be in the know, know what I mean?

    The next day I drive to the new job and my truck doesn't want to start ever. It's just a whole day of suck for me. At the end of the day we leave, and my coworker is following me back to the hotel. The truck started missing and backfiring so bad that he said he could see the sparks shoot out of the tail pipes. It eventually got bad along the way he said sh*t was flying out the rear end and the tone of my exhaust got a little more manly. I make it to the turn lane for the hotel and it dies. I've got my coworker behind me and my boss behind him. I can't get it to start. It just keeps turning over and then... BOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOOM.. ba BOOOOOOOOOMM POOOOOOOOOOOOOOWWWWWWWWW It was the like the 4th of July was happening in the cab of my truck. It was awesome. It made both of those guys damn near piss themselves. I wish I had it for Youtube.
    I make it into the parking lot and we all get out and look under the truck. The muffler had been blown in half. Now I'm thinking the cat did get plugged up or broken somehow when the muffler was put on.

    I leave the truck there, goto work, come back and pray that I can make it back to Houston. NOPE. Pulled off to the Meineke downtown and they said I had a bad CAT code, a bad MUFFLER code (??really, a bad muffler code?? right) and a air/fuel mixture ratio code. I asked if I could make it back and they said sure, but it would be loud.

    So now I'm off and I've got nothing but freeway ahead. It's missing and backfiring and I know there's no way I'm getting back. So I pull over and cut the tail pipe before the cat to provide a temporary fix so I can make it back to Houston. This STILL is not the problem. It hasn't been the IAC solenoid, the coil, the alternator, the rotor (which I replaced too) the cam shaft sensor, the cat or the muffler. GEEEEZUS

    I sputter into Ennis and the local mechanic garage there finds the problem. They started just pulling on wires while the engine was running and it killed the engine. They followed the wires back to the ECM (or sometimes PCM as it's referred to) and found that the ECM probably had a broken circuit board. I saw it happen. They started the truck and with a very slight tap of a wrench on top of the ECM, the truck immediately died.

    Unfortunately, you can't just pull a used ECM from the junk yard. I thought you could and those guys said you could too, but they said it would be used and there would be no warranty. I took it to the Dodge dealership there and they've got my truck until Tuesday when the ECM arrives. Am I overpaying? Probably. However, if you buy one online, Dodge still has to flash it with your VIN and I guess I could have looked one up online there and had it shipped.. (crap). Also, if you get a used one from a junk yard, if it doesn't have the same specs as your truck, you run the risk of wasting your money on something that won't work. It's also illegal to sell a truck with a different ECM VIN programmed in (whatever). It's a one shot deal on that, there is no reprogramming it. I thought I was getting hosed, but in the end, they install it, they flash it, it's all their problem if it goes bad.

    SOOOOO, to close. Tap on your ECM (the thing with the three big plugs screwed to the passenger fender by the air intake box) once you have your truck running and see what happens. If your problem is everyonce and awhile. You might try just unscrewing your ECM from the truck and moving it around and possibly shaking it gently. Move them harness wires a bit too as I see sometimes problems arise from bad splices down the wires from the plug harness on other posts

    NOTE: Here's some other things I did wrong that may have contributed to this break down. When I installed my MSD ignition, I wanted to have a super good ground. I was younger then and grabbed the B+ from the alternator and tried to tie it to this ground plug thing I made. ZAAAP blew the 140 amp fuse in the engine compartment fuse box. (about 8 years ago) Also, I tried those platinum plugs. On a work trip back from Alabama, I heard this crack sound and my truck never did have the greatest fuel mileage after that, even after I put the old copper plugs back in. That's also when I decided to stop using the MSD to see if that would help get the gas mileage back. (around 4 years ago). Which on rare occasions, it did get great gas mileage, but I think I've had a bad ECM for quite a long time. I also did just recently hose wash my engine, as I've done many times before. I can't see that causing a problem, as I stay clear for the most part from the ECM computer. Those things have to be at the least water resistant with rain getting in to the engine compartment. Also, very recently, I've sprayed WD-40 all over and around my rubbers and bushings (i see a joke there, but I can't place it) which helpe
  • Also, very recently, I've sprayed WD-40 all over and around my rubbers and bushings (i see a joke there, but I can't place it) which helped the squeaks for a bit. I don't think I came close to the computer at all. My truck does have 310K miles on it.

    The guy at the car rental place said he had a buddy that wanted to sell his 80's model Chevy for around what I'm going to spend on this ECM. I told him, let me get this straight. I'm going to spend 800 for a used 1980 Chevy?? WOO WOO, oh wait a sec. I could also spend 800 for a used 1998 Dodge Dakota. I told him I would get back to him on that.

    Cheers ya'll,
    Hope something here helped you,
    just an average shmuck
  • I Have a 2000 Dakota Quad Cab, 4.7L 4X4 120500 miles.

    In my earlier post the advice I was given by the dealer and one transmission shop was that my torque converter was slipping during interlock. The problem was more noticeable after my tires got balanced. When truck in neutral or at 35-50 mph, slight vibration. Now in an attempt to get a third opinion, one shop advised that I have a clogged fuel injector. They claimed computer showed, pass side bank was running a little rich. He concluded the torque converter was not bad after getting the truck to breakdown or sputter without the interlock engaged at any speed as long as motor rpms were below 2500. Now I can feel it too. He advised STP fuel injector cleaner at a high concentrate and blow it out on the freeway. After doing just that with no change in ride. After that he felt a clogged injector or failing injector was the problem. I bought two injectors and he put them in, no change, he moved them and still no change.
    **Please note that during all this I have no engine code.
    He also replaced the TPS, no fix. Another mechanic felt that one of the coils might be breaking down. I bought one and put it in and test drove it in all 8 positions, no fix.

    To date, the symptoms and attempted fixes have been as follows:
    First felt vibration at 35-45 mph
    Started feeling it more, went to dealer.
    Drove a week and began to feel more noticeably.
    After fuel injector cleaner, no fix.


    First Diagnostic:
    Transmission fluids slightly dirty, had them change it.
    Old worn plugs, changed myself with exact replacements and proper gap settings (0.40).
    Tires out of balance, Balanced them.
    Flash Updates for ECM and TCM, updated them.
    Went home $450 lighter, still not fixed.

    Second Diagnostic:
    Torque Converter slipping during interlock. Both stated by dealer and first tranny shop.
    or possible bad TCM (no codes)

    Third Diagnostic:
    not torque converter.
    Clogged injector, ran truck hard with double dose of STP, no fix.
    Bought 2 injectors and moved them around, no fix.

    Fourth Diagnostic:
    Possible bad or faulty coil, bought one and played ring around the motor, no fix.

    Fifth Diagnostic:
    Trustworthy Tranny shop states no way it can be torque converter, says it must be tires. With truck off ground and wheels dangling, truck shook on lift, just like on road??

    Sixth Diagnostic:
    New Shop can't find any problem, then suggest rear diff service.
    Finds broken clutch plate and rebuilds. $850
    Problem unchanged and now shop says it is the tires.
    Buy new tires, $650, balance two times and road force balance one time and problems still there.

    After all of the above (over $2000) and hours and hours (priceless) of driving and thinking it feels like an out of round tire. A 35-50mph feels like a slight wobble or hop (tires are good and true and no bent rims) in the rear of the truck.

    Please help!!!!!
    Currently I'm out over $2000 and slightly better than started but not completely gone.
    No OBD codes.

    Could this be a driveshaft bent? Feels to slow and wobbly, not high speed vibration.

    Thanks for your help,
    Jason
  • Was it a used PCM? If so you may have to have it flashed for your vehicle which only can be done by the dealer even though you # match doesnt mean that the computers are flashed the same way!
  • I have a 98 Dodge Dakota 3.9L V6 I have recently replaced the motor with a 2000 with 52k on it. Everything was fine with the install and it seemed to be running great until the temperature dropped a couple degrees. What it would do was it would start but while driving it would stall out for no reason. I have picked my brain on this for over a year now and checked everything in the vehicle from the fuel pump, crank sensor to the coil itself. The funny thing is that no check engine light ever showed up. So I though it could be one of the sensors on the throttle body. I had all the old sensors off the orig. motor so I changed them out only the problem got worse. the truck would start then die emediatly after starting especially when cold out. then sometimes it would start and run fine with no problems. I just couldn't seem to nip this problem in the butt. So I figured the problem should be in one of the sensors i replaced so I started with the IAC valve it had black sut all over it so I started to clean it with starting fluid well I had to of them and am a curious person so I figured i would take one of them apart to see how it worked and low and behold I found that both of the sensors had a piece on them that would unscrew from it both of them it looked like they didnt do anything but I was wrong. what they do is screw in and out to allow different airflow to the TB. I cleaned one of them up and the other i left the same as it was just in case the one I took apart after cleaning I could screw the pice that goes inside the TB in and out and the other was still stuck so after finding this out I put the one I cleaned back in the truck and low and behold it fires up with no problems and runs like a dream and never stalls anymore so if your having problems with stalling and not wanting to start I would start at the IAC first to see if it fixes your problems.
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