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Dodge Dakota Stalling and Dying Problems



  • alanartalanart Posts: 7
    I would install a fuel pressure gauge, watch it for low press., and the IAC and TPS should also be looked at as suspects, once they are cleared, look at the the crank sensor, cam sensor, MAP, EGR...
  • mender2mender2 Posts: 3
    I will check them out.
  • brdleybrdley Posts: 1
    I have an 05 v-6 Dakota, when I start the truck in the morning it runs very rough for the first 2-3 blocks. The check engine light flashes. After 2-3 blocks it runs smoothly and the light no longer flashes but remains on. The repair shop has replaced the oxygen sensor, the plugs and coils. I am wondering if I have a bad injector. or what else could cause this??? The light has now been off for about a week, but it has done this before and then the issue returns.
  • srs_49srs_49 Posts: 1,394
    Coolant or ambient air temperature sensor?

    IIRC, the O2 sensor is basically "out of the loop" until the engine has warmed up. O2 sensors do not work unless they are hot.
  • let me know if u ever figure it out. im stupped and in same boat and nobody will give me a paddle got one????? my email is [email protected]
  • I work on my buddies 97 Dodge Dakota for him. He said the engine was shaking while at idle a couple months ago. It was missing but only at idle. He somehow decided he needed plugs and wires changed, so we changed them and it ran much better. Just yesterday he stated it was stalling when it went to idle (he had to keep it above 1000 rpms or it would die). It was a clean stall no sputtering which let me to believe it was not gas related. I took off the air intake and cleaned out the butterfly flaps for the intake with carb spray and it fixed it almost immediately. If you get dirt collected in the butterfly flaps and they don't let the correct amount of air/fuel mixture in it can stall. For some people having problems with missing and stalling try this it worked for my buddies truck.
  • Im new to edmunds, i have a 2002 dakota slt quad cab 4.7 and my issue is, when starting in the morning or 20 to 30 min after shutting of the engine it takes 4 second to start and i get a smell of gas. Also it is runnig rought on idle but has not turned of on me yet, it had the check engine light on for cylinder # 6 so i changed injecter and coil but still runnig rought but the check engine light has not come back....i just got this truck 3 days ago so im new to dodge. HELP
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    The smell of gas would mean that the injectors are working, but the ignition is not coming on instanteously for some reason.
    This would be my guess with no codes present. Changing the coil is the last
    resort..I would change out the camshaft sensor first as these can be tricky to diagnose (hall effect semi conductor) and in some cases they don't always produce a fail code.
    For an engine to need 3 things, compression, fuel charge in the cylinders and a spark at the correct's gotta run.

    Since the coil primary is controlled by the PCM, it needs i/p from the camshaft (and crankshaft sensor) to provide the correct timing for the spark. The PCM
    will pulse the coil primary to produce a spark for the correct plug based
    on the position of the rotor inside the distributor cap. It then goes off to
    the spark plug for the cylinder that is at top dead center after it's compression

    The rest of the ignition system is basically standard, cap, rotor, sparkplug wires and park plugs, so these shouldn't be giving the intermittent symptom
    you are describing.
  • Thank you so much for the info, where is the the crankshaft sensor located on 2002 dakota.
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    According to my Haynes manual the crankshaft sensor (V6/V8 is located
    behind the RIGHT cylinder head. It is a hall effect solid state sensor as well
    and detects notches in the flywheel/driveplate. The PCM receives those
    pulses and processes it to control each cylinder's injector. O/P from the
    sensor will fluctuate between 0volts and 5 volts DC.
    To replace it, you have to remove the right front tire and inner splash shield,
    disconnect the wiring harness connector and the bolts that hold it in.

    Not as easy as replacing the hall effect camshaft sensor inside the distributor, which sits on a plastic plate held on with 2 screws.
    On the dakotas, the ASD relay (auto shutdown) will be operated by
    the PCM if it detects any kind of serious fault...and sometimes there
    is no Pxxx code given, because the sensor is flakey but not completely
    dead yet.

    P0300 is no camshaft sensor signal..but this will be a complete failure
    and the check engine light will come on.

    P1391 loss of either camshaft or crankshaft sensor signal.

    Note: these are hall effect semiconductor types of sensors and they can
    have intermittent failures as their o/p depends on sensing a changing magnetic field on the flywheel or inside the distributor.
    (see wikipedia for more information on these).
  • Ok, replaced the crankshaft sensor and still takes about 4 to 5 seconds for the motor turn over also getting strong smell of crude fuel comming out the muffler. so far ive replaced the # 6 injecter,coil and I replaced all 8 plugs acdelco what to do what do. the truck idles rough but drives normal what else can it be, you like obeone canoby your my only hope , before I take it to the dealer and get shafted. Thanks again for all the help your giving me god bless.
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    edited August 2011
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    The injectors are running to rich or you don't have a spark at the beginning.

    Try this, take the wire out of the coil that goes to the distributor and find a sparkplug wire
    to fit into it. Connect the sparkplug boot to a spare spark plug and ground the plug against
    the engine somewhere. Have someone crank the engine while you observe for a spark
    right away..within the 1st second. If you do..then the it's the injector system/PCM.

    There are two sensors that control fuel mixture:

    IAT (on the intake manifold) determines the temp of the incoming air and sends a signal
    to the PCM to adjust fuel mixture accordingly.

    MAP (manifold pressure or mass air flow) this one will send a signal to the PCM to
    adjust the mixture as well.
    But don't replace should be able to test them for proper voltage...0 to 5volts.
  • My truck is a 2002 and it has coil packs no distributor, when the truck is cold or bin sitting for 30 min it will take 4 to 5 seconds for it to start holding the key down then i can turn it of and it starts wright away and then runs rough on idle only. Could it be the check valve in the fuel pump i guess when i shut the motor down all the gas goes back to the tank, what do you think?......thank you for your help.
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    Ok, you have the GenII engine with a coil for each plug. As far as the fuel
    pump, IF it is the same as the older style Magnum 5.2 V8, you should have
    a pressure regulator down in the fuel pump module. It maintains the
    pressure on the fuel rail. So unless it is faulty, the fuel rail should have
    some pressure on it on all times, when the ignition key is ON,
    typically 45 psi.

    I have an Actron fuel pressure guage (0-100psi) that I use to check mine on occasion.
    These are cheap to buy $15-$20 and come with an instruction folder for
    testing the pressure on the fuel rail test port..the one that has a black
    plastic cap screwed on it.

    Unscrew the protective cap and screw on the hose with the schrader valve fitting onto the rail. If the engine has been sitting for a long time, the pressure will bleed off, but as soon as the ignition key is ON (don't start),
    the fuel pressure should be instanteous..within a half second.

    As soon as you get a reading on the guage, leave it for an hour or so and
    check the pressure again WITHOUT TURNING ON THE KEY OR STARTING,
    it shouldn't drop down that much, if any..that is what they call a leak down
    test and it will give you a relative idea of the pressure regulator valve.

    The fuel pump is controlled by the fuel pump relay in the PDC.

    Note: be careful when attaching/detaching the fuel pressure hose to the fuel rail test port, as some fuel may spray out around the fitting until it is tight. If the fuel rail is still under some pressure, until the schrader valve
    closes tightly on the fuel test port, fuel can spray out on a hot
    don't do this with a hot engine. They suggest wrapping a rag around
    the test port fitting to catch any fuel spraying out.

    * ALSO*
    My fuel pressure regulator also has a small clear plastic fuel dump hose to dump any fuel in the hose and release the pressure on the guage AFTER the ignition has been turned off, (before the pressure guage fitting is unscrewed from the test port.)

    (They recommend putting the clear plastic fuel dump hose in a container to contain the gas, will be just around 10ml.

    This should at least give you an idea if your problem is fuel pump module related, as replacing the fuel pump module inside the tank is a BIG job
    and an EXPENSIVE one.

    The tank has to be practically empty and you need to drop the tank onto a jackstand support to get at the pump.
    Not a DIY job, in my do the testing it is a cheaper
    way of troubleshooting.
  • carvermancarverman Posts: 101
    Just checked the fuel pressure at the test port on my 98 Dakota.
    Initially it 0 PSI (sitting overnight) and was 45psi with the ignition key turned on after 1/2 second or so. Turned off the ignition key and
    left the guage on for over an hour.

    Fuel rail pressure dropped down only to 35 psi, so the pressure regulator on mine works just fine.
  • My 99 Dakota with v6 engine, would die and I would get nothing when I turned the key. If I waited a few minute 2-5 it would start. Autozone told me to replace the ignition control monitor, I did it worked fine for a couple of weeks. Now it seems to stall out sitting at a light or driving. Turn the key the engine turns over but will not start, Wait 2-4 minutes and it starts right up may drive 5mile or 30 and stall again. It seems to act like the older vehicles when they would vapor lock. Any one with an idea let me know.
  • What do you mean by "nothing" when turning the key? Starter not
    cranking engine or engine cranking and not attempting to run?

    Never heard of the term "ignition control monitor" on the Dakota.

    Mine doesn't have one...just a camshaft sensor and a crank sensor that picks timing information for the PCM, which controls the fuel injection and the spark.
    Sometimes they are referred to as ECU (Engine control unit) that what you mean?

    Have you changed the camshaft sensor, as these are known to have
    intermittent symptoms such as you are describing.
  • mender2mender2 Posts: 3
    edited September 2011
    Regarding the 2002 Dakota stalling problem.
    I have cleaned the IAC and the TPS, replaced Dist. cap and Rotor, plug wires and plugs. The cap and Rotor were very corroded. Runs fine for a few days, now today without pulling the trailer, after I drove 15 miles, stopped for 5 min., drove 4 more miles, the vehicle will not idle. stopped for 30 min, run OK. drove home 20 miles by the time I got close to home Won't idle. I guess the next action is to replace the IAC, then the TPS.
  • I can understand cleaning the IAC motor, which is a motor controlled by
    the PCM to change the idle rpm on the engine when there is additional
    load, such as the A/C compressor coming on....but how did you
    manage to clean the TPS sensor?

    There is nothing to clean on these.

    You can test the TPS with a digital voltmeter, by probing through the
    insulation on the plug between ground and the o/p of the sensor .
    There are 3 pins on this..Gnd/o/p/+5v.

    Take the air cleaner off, turn key on (DO NOT START engine) and operate throttle by hand..if sensor is good, it will read around 0.5v closed throttle and around 4.5volt fully open.

    That's all there is to it. Test it first, you may not need to replace it.
    If the TPS sensor is out of range, you will get a P-0122 or a P-0123,
    otherwise, it's within the range that the PCM accepts.

    As far as the IAC (Idle Air Control) which is a motor, if it is truly faulty,
    you will get a P0505 code (shorted or open condition in one or more
    of the idle air control circuits).
    Taking it off an cleaning it doesn't hurt, but I wouldn't replace it unless
    I know for sure that's what is causing the problem.
  • You can see a video on testing the TPS on YouTube, that might give you some insight, but low fuel pressure is a common cause of no/rough idle. You should get a fuel pressure guage. Maybe change the fuel filter.
  • I tried to get a replacement fuel filter/pressure regulator for mine and the
    aftermarket parts place all told me "no listing" on this. You are forced to
    buy the entire fuel module at a cost of several hundred dollars! What
    a scam! Besides that, you have to drop the tank, and in order to do
    that, you have to have the truck on a hoist with a way of supporting the
    fuel tank.
  • You should get an aftermarket fuel pressure guage and watch it while you re-create the no-idle situation. If it is lower than normal while experiencing idle problem, there's the culprit. Before dropping the tank, check for kinked fuel lines. Isn't there an in-line fuel filter as well as the one in the tank?
  • I'm not the one with the idle problem. I was replying to "mismysilverado"
    who was or still is. Yes, I do have a aftermarket fuel pressure guage and
    Haynes manual on my Dakota, and check my fuel pressure on problems there and I don't have a rough idle condition.

    You are right that once the fuel pressure drops below 45psi, the truck will
    stall at some point. There is NO inline fuel filter on the Dakota, (at least
    my 1998), I have checked underneath.

    As far as the stalling condition he mentioned, the ASD and the Fuel pump
    relay are controlled by the PCM. The ASD shuts down the injectors and
    the ignition coil or coils and the Fuel pump relay controls the fuel pump.
    If the PCM senses loss of timing from either the Crank or Cam sensors,
    it will shut down both.
  • I got my fuel pump on ebay for 200 dollars and its an acdelco you cant beat that, also if you dont care of the brand advaced auto has them for 180 or 190 dollars check it out.
  • Thanks for the info. The only problem is with that is that you have to order
    them ahead of time and carry one with you in the truck at all times..otherwise, if the fuel pump fails on the road, it's towed into the nearest repair garage of your choice and the fuel pump is replaced at
    the garage's price, which will be a lot higher than e-bay.

    Based on my Dakota's past history of failure, I carry certain spare parts
    with me in the truck at all times such as:
    cam sensor,
    wheel bearing hub
    spare injector
    and of course fuses, a OBDII code reader and a Haynes manual.

    This year, I've added a spare TPS sensor after having transmission shifting
    issues which turned out to be FINALLY a TSS sensor on the transmission.

    I don't know if this is another one of those hall effect sensors, but for a
    while it wasn't providing any clues (codes) and I had a lot of high rpm
    hard (pressure) upshifts, until finally one day, the check engine light
    came on and I read the code for the TSS (Transmission Speed Sensor).
  • If i have to replace the crank and cam shaft sensors do they have to be oem?
  • No, not necessarily.
    I have a spare cam sensor ($30) in my glove compartment, which
    is an aftermarket NieHoff AL437.
    My spare TPS sensor is a STANDARD, (
  • Thank you I started with the cheapest fix and it worked. I could not believe how dirty the butterfly was.
  • I too am in the same boat. Mine is a 92 dakota with the 3.9 auto with 221,000 miles on it it had been running fine with no rough idle or any thing obvious. it would just die some times at idle sometimes under power on the interstate and sumtimes when slowing down. it usually restarts easily but some times it is a little stubborn. it might do it once aday up to f times a day or it may go for weeks with out stalling. its as if some thing just turned to motor off. when it runs it is smoth and has no performance issues. it just intermittantly dies for no apparent reason. I ave checked engine code and come up with no problems in computer, I have recently changed out gas tank, filter, new batt had alternator tested every thing looks good and tests fine but it still stalls intermittantly........HELP
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