1) You'll see between 3 to 5 hp at the upper RPM ranges.
2) The oil in the filter acts as a glue for particles in the air. When you first oil the filter, the dirt flys into the element and hits a strand with some oil on it. The oil catches the particle and holds on to it, keeping it from going around the physical strand and into the engine.
The reason they use oil instead of some other substance is that the oil won't evaporate, it has a low... damn, I can't remember the term. Basically, it doesn't form big drops. Low cohesion coefficient? It spreads out over the fibers without bridging the gaps between the fibers. If you use molasses, for example, the stuff is so thick that it would cover many of the gaps between the fibers and air wouldn't go through. The oil, OTOH, will stick to the fibers, but it doesn't have enough cohesion to stay together when stretched across the gaps in the fibers.
K&N claims that they offer a 2-3% increase in torque and HP than stock filters. The truth is that they make about 1 HP in a normal sized engine. They are a good filter, and they are washable reusable, so you won't have to buy another filter.
Unfortunately, NO ONE makes a ram-air kit for the Sebring convertible (not to be confused with the coupes). In fact, hardly anyone makes any performance enhancement equipment for this car! I had hoped for the K&N to give me a little more than I had before and I think it has. Not much on the bottom end, but the higher the rpm the quicker it seems to climb.
Anyway, I'm trying to rig a cool-air system that will bring some cooler air into the filter area without ingesting leaves, water, squirrels, and other organic matter! Maybe come in between the grill and radiator support wall and duct in behind the headlights.....
NISMOtuned: You have got to be kidding me. His problem is that he's looking for performance enhancements for a non-performance car. Smiley faces or not, your little statement is flat out wrong. The American aftermarket is alive and well, thankyouverymuch.
The Sebring is basically a Japanese Car with American clothing. The Sebring Convertible is a American body(Cirrus/Stratus platform) but the coupe Sebring/Avenger is a completely Mitsubishi platform. Basically a 2-door version of the last generation Galant and a stretched platform of the Eclipse/Talon. The 2.5 Litre v-6 engine is also Mitsubishi.
The reason the Sebring JXI convertible doesn't have aftermarket parts available for it is just as bhepler explained above. It's simply that Chrysler wasn't aiming for the "young" boy-racer crowd when they designed the Sebring Convertible. That's where the Neon comes in. The Neon has a healthy aftermarket available. With suspension, engine, and body mods available.
Go to the www.weaponrusa.com . If you send them a picture of your engine, and intake system they will build you one. I am checking into it also for my 300M. Hopes this helps some.
I have a '99 Civic EX and I am looking at installing either the PRM or AEM intake kit. I was going to get the AEM, but I had concerns regarding wet weather and water getting into the engine. Any comments as to which unit to get. Has anyone had problems with the AEMs in rain/snow? How 'bout the PRM. Thanks.
Anyone know if K&N makes a replacement filter element for the Volvo S70? We've got the non-turbo model, and I'd like to up the power a little bit, but mostly I'd like to save on the cost and waste of paper filter replacement.
Aem and PRM is about the same, you shouldn't have to worry about it unless you drive in a foot of water. I've never tried the PRM but i've heard good things about it. I've used the AEM and that really did increase the throttle and top end. I highly recommend the AEM. Even on a hot day the piping stays cool under the hot engine bay thanks to the heat resisting paint inside and out and also the light aluminum piping.
K&N probably does make a replacement panel filter for the Volvo S70. K&N makes a replacement filter to fit the stock box for almost every car on the market.
Adding a K&N is a nice feature, cost wise, and for cars with high HP. But the intake of air is only 1/2 the battle. Without a proper "pipe" to "exhale" all the extra air, you are just putting more stress (heat) on the exhaust system (albeit a neglible amount). The filter WILL make a difference if done in conjunction with an upgrade to the OEM exhaust.
Just think about it... If you took a funnel and made the opening bigger and kept the exit the same size you wouldnt be increasing the water flow, you would just increase the amount you could put in at once. You would be surprised, too, exhaust upgrades are generally not to expensive. If you live somewhere they dont have exhaust inspections then you could junk the catalitic convertor (sell it, they are $$$$)
Also, always reset your ECU when performing any performance changes to your car.
Yeah, but who would buy a used catalytic converter?
While air induction is half the battle, the key is to find out which part of the battle you are losing and fix it. Some factory exhausts are pretty good (not many) and the engine just needs more intake capability. I think most Hondas fall into this catagory. Most exhausts are pretty restrictive. It will depend on your particular model.
I'd like to add a little to chonour's funnel comparison. Generally the funnel is a good way to think about air intake/exhaust. But remember that the engine actually pumps air. So even if you only increase the intake size, flow will increase. The engine won't have to work as hard to suck in intake air. And if you only increase the exhaust size the engine won't have to work as hard to push out the exhaust gases. If you increase both then you've got the best of both worlds.
I am new to this form so if my questions are old hat, I am sorry. I just bought a 99 Tahoe 2wd 4dr and was thinking about adding a K&N fillter with a flowmaster system. Has anyone done this, did it help gas and hp. If I did this would I have to mess with the computer on the Tahoe.
Depending on what parts of the exhaust system are replaced by the Flowmasters, no, you will not have to replace the computer.
Most likely, the Flowmasters will only replace the mufflers and associated tubing from after the catalytic converts to the exhaust tips (a cat-back system). In that case, all of your engine monitoring equipment will be intact. You will flow a little bit more air, and the computer will sense this and adjust the engine accordingly.
I'm curious if anyone can help me. I have a 99' Dodge Dakota with a 5.2L V-8 and 5 speed manual. I am considering purchasing a K&N Filteration kit for $229 and was wondering: 1. How much HP & Torque increase I should expect(without adding a special exhaust) & how much with a special exhaust, 2. Is it worth it, 3. Should I be concerned about voiding my warranty, and 4. Has anyone added this to a Dakota?
1) Not much. Probably not enough to feel with the old butt-o-meter. 5 hp if you are very lucky. With exhaust... that depends on how restrictive your stock exhaust is. The majority of the gains will come from the exhaust, with the K&N helping a little, if at all. 2) I think it's worth getting the replacement filter... I don't know about the filtercharger kit. 3) No. 4) Probably.
I priced the K&N generation II here in Edmunds for $293. Summit Racing was $229. That's the best price I found. Do you have the part # from Auto Zone? Thanks,
Excuse my ignorance guysandgals, but I'm new to the performance bolt on world. I've ordered a 2000 Olds Alero(lay of me ricers) and was considering some bolt on enhancers. It's got a V-6 that produces 170HP @ 4800 and 200ft-lb of torque at 4000. I've read your posts and can see that an aftermarket filter with a down pipe may help a bit, but I'm concerned about the water issue. How much of a risk would I be running of actually sucking a bit of water into my engine?(not good, even I know this) Also will probably do a bit of work on the exhaust, but not sure exactly what yet. Any recommendation? What about plugs, wires, etc. Can these help as well? Thanks for the help.
Get a Borla cat-back stainless steel exhaust system.
To answer your intake question, as long as you keep your filter at the top, about where it's at now, and run a pipe down to the bottom of the car facing forward, you will not have any problems with water ingestion. The water ingestion problem comes in to play when you place the filter element at the end of the down spout and the bottom of the car where the filter is basically sitting 5" away from the ground.
I'm still curious, who says the air under the car is cooler. Sure Hot air rises, but pavement radiates heat, and as that heat rises it cools. Do this little experiement Stand in a parking lot. Ok now lay down on the parking lot. In which position did you feel hotter? (presuming summer time, no Rain) I'd rather stand on pavement than have my face near it.
Just read all the posts here, and found nothing mentioned on the efficiency of K&N filters vs paper media, ie which filters better.
Since the only reason for using an air filter is to prevent engine wear due to dust/sand and (larger) particles in the air, seems a fair question. I'm concerned about long-term engine life, not just the next 10 or 20K miles. Nobody wants their rings to wear out before the 100,000 mile air filter does.
Wonder if anyone knows of any independent lab test reports comparing the filter efficiency of K&N vs paper at various dust particle sizes?
It's not that the air UNDERNEATH the car is cooler, it's that the air OUTSIDE the engine compartment is cooler. The placement of the air intake is largely irrelevant, however, if the intake is positioned facing forward performance should increase due to a ram air effect.
Take for instance, a Trans-Am with the ram air option.. The intake is mounted into the hood. As long as cooler air from outside the engine compartment is directed into the intake, the desired effect is achieved.
The air is actually warmer closer to the ground. But any ram-air induction system will improve a car's performance, whether or not the the setup draws air from under the car or from higher up on the car. A conical K&N filter sitting in the engine bay and sucking in air from the engine bay will perform worse because it is basically sucking in very hot air. A ram-air setup remedies that by supplying much cooler air to the filter.
Thanks for the advice. I've heard that a high perfomance chip used in conjunction with the exhaust and intake mods can really make a difference. Also, word is to do the chip last, as most shops can tune the chip to work it's best with the specific set-up you have. Anyone else know bout this or tried it?
I haven't read all the earlier posts. Maybe somebody else has already made all the following points.
This is a subject that has always had a lot of voodoo, superstition, mythology, alchemy about it.
Like everyone, I'd like to gain a few bhp as cheaply as possible with no sacrifice of mpg or driveability. That might be possible with a properly-designed induction and/or exhaust system, but gains will be minimal unless you make major changes to valve lift and timing.
It's like thinking that a human body could transfer more oxygen to the blood if it only had a bigger nose. You're still limited by your lungs.
The least restrictive intake possible would be "velocity stacks", but (aside from the issue of air filtering) they would lean out your mixture and burn your valves in short order unless the entire system were designed to take advantage of the larger airflow. Likewise, "ram" air intakes, unless part of a carefully designed sytem, will lean out your mixture at speed, and/or cause it to strangle when you're idling. Lots of Jr hotrodders have destroyed engines that way.
Of course, if you happen to have an engine that's designed for a greater airflow than your intake permits (like having big lungs and blocked nostrils), then you would indeed benefit from a less restrictive intake.
I have just bought a Honda Civic HX '99. i want to add some more hp to it, but worried about the factory warrantee. What can I do that won't void my warrantee?
Look, for those of you who dont think a K&N filter will not increase horsepower:
a supercharger does what? it forces more air to enter during the intake stroke dramatically increasing power on any engine.
a K&N filter does not force any more air than the engine can take in on its own. through its design it allows the engine to breath much easier than with a stock filter. now, if your engine is not designed to handle increased airflow you may not see the benefits of increased airflow. many engines are capable of handling more airflow than a stock filter can provide. the stock filter is not made to be restrictive. it just is. they are made to be cheap and still do the job. K&N makes filters that are just as good, if not better, at filtering the air but also allow 10 to 20 percent more airflow.
as with the supercharger, the engine can breath easier and therefore make more power.
for those who care I own a 99 chevy silverado. the dyno proven results at the rear wheels are 10 added hp and 20 lb/ft of torque. I can feel the power and have no doubt the K&N filter is worth the money. plus I will never have to pay for a replacement filter.... EVER.
Actually some guy did a comparison with a foam filter, K&N, and an OEM Fram filter on an LS1 Camaro at a shop with a dyno. The results were that the K&N had a less than .1% increase in flow than the Fram, and the Foam a quite a bit worse. These were new/clean filters so I don't know how they would perform when dirty, but just telling you the information that I have seen, for you guys considering the K&N. I think it's worth it just with the fact you never need to buy a new replacement filter. Just my $.02.
it was a .1% increase in horsepower...same engine with a 30 minute cool down period between runs, I think. A foam filter element, is one that uses this sponge like material rather than paper, or other more conventional filtering materials...sorry I was unclear in the previous post.
One of the benefits of the K&N is its ability to maintain constant air flow even when it is dirty, so I believe you'll find a bigger difference when you compare dirty filters. Try comparing the HP with filters that have been driven 25000 miles.
You guys sound like a couple of grocery store baggers arguing over some fat ladies overflowing shopping cart... "Paper"... "No, Plastic"... Settle down, bottom line is anything is better than the factor crap!
I have a Grand Cherokee inline-6. Yeah, I wanted the V-8, but after I made a few modifications. I now have V-8 power with I-6 gas mileage. So, I saved a couple of thousand with the I-6 and I get better gas mileage.
Although, I did spend some money on the modifications, it does sound and look a hell of a lot better than the stock crap...
You can do it all of the mods at once, but you'll have to come up with some change and you won't get to feel the upgrades one by one... You'll appreciate it more in stages.
It started with a wheel upgrade. Wider and bigger is better, no matter what she says... Z-racing 5 spoke and some BF Goodrich T/A's. Then my catallatic converter busted so I said let's do the whole exhaust system. A Magnaflow free flow through converter and performance muffler w/ thicker pipe and a thick polished exhaust tip. Ya don't want bottlenecking. Ahhh, now she can exhale. DO NOT CUT OFF YOUR MUFFLER AND PUT A TIP ON THE END, YOU'LL SOUND LIKE A BEE HIVE TRAPPED IN A TIN CAN... The next logical mod was the inhale. I ripped out that damn air box and order a K&N Filter system from Turbocity.com. Not a little air cartridge, but the whole elbow with cone filter. Now she's breathing well and sounds good, front to back.
But, I wasn't done. I installed a JET II inline chip that plugs inline with the computer. Let me just say "DAMN"... From there, I upgraded my plugs and wires (thicker is better) to help spark it up. After that is just small personal mods: Rancho shocks with front stablizer, Piaa foglights, Window tint, etc... I'm not gonna get into the stereo (Kenwood,Alpine,Bostwick,and Rockford Fosgate). It would take some time.
I installed everything myself (except the exhaust system) to save on labor. I probably bolted on about 50-60 hp on top of the already 190. I don't know how much gas I save because it so easy to go fast...
Who cares what brand name you use, as long as it does the trick. Also, these mods weren't that expensive. Do them yourselves! It's a lot more rewarding that way... Here in Atlanta, It's not just HOT country club moms who drive Grand Cherokees, everyone has one... So, ya got to been seen and heard. Make yourself stick out!!!
Read with interest about the k&n filter ideas. I have had 2 of them one on a 6.2 chevey and one on the 7.3 ps ford. I diden't notice any mileage differance on the 6.2 and very little on the ford.The intake had a louder noise like it was getting more air but that was all. The thing that bothered me was with the ins. it said that the dirtier they got the better they filtered. Still don't understand that or else a clean one wasn't very good. I haven't decided if I will get a new one for the new
Read with interest about the k&n filter ideas. I have had 2 of them one on a 6.2 chevey and one on the 7.3 ps ford. I diden't notice any mileage differance on the 6.2 and very little on the ford.The intake had a louder noise like it was getting more air but that was all. The thing that bothered me was with the ins. it said that the dirtier they got the better they filtered. Still don't understand that or else a clean one wasn't very good. I haven't decided if I will get a new one for the new pu.y2k chev 1/2 silverado.
I have a 99 Grand am GT1 with ram air. Because i have ram air, will i notice a bigger difference by adding on the K&N filter then a car with no ram air? Also i would like to hear success and horror stories from people who uses a performance chip. I read in car and driver that hypertech's programmer III is a very good chip.
With a ram-air, you will notice the difference with K&N more than someone without it. A ram-air pushes the limit of your OEM filter and that's where the K&N helps...when you're OEM filter is a bottleneck. -powerisfun
one comment for buffbaker ...."From there, I upgraded my plugs and wires (thicker is better)"
Not true, the more conductive the better, a bigger wire will disperse the electrical current into more area, hense slowing the current flow. If you are looking for a good set of wires, check for its purity less impurities in the wire let the current flow quicker and with more accuracy. Ciao F-
Comments
I have a few questions.
first, how much difference will you see if you only replace the regular filter with the K&N and do nothing else.....
second, why do they use "oil" on the filter? from my sense, I feel that if you use oil, it will block the air from flowing into the engine.
could someone explain? Please?
2) The oil in the filter acts as a glue for particles in the air. When you first oil the filter, the dirt flys into the element and hits a strand with some oil on it. The oil catches the particle and holds on to it, keeping it from going around the physical strand and into the engine.
The reason they use oil instead of some other substance is that the oil won't evaporate, it has a low... damn, I can't remember the term. Basically, it doesn't form big drops. Low cohesion coefficient? It spreads out over the fibers without bridging the gaps between the fibers. If you use molasses, for example, the stuff is so thick that it would cover many of the gaps between the fibers and air wouldn't go through. The oil, OTOH, will stick to the fibers, but it doesn't have enough cohesion to stay together when stretched across the gaps in the fibers.
I hope that was clear. Need more coffee.
Cleaner Air from your Air Cleaner
Check it out...
Bruce.
Anyway, I'm trying to rig a cool-air system that will bring some cooler air into the filter area without ingesting leaves, water, squirrels, and other organic matter! Maybe come in between the grill and radiator support wall and duct in behind the headlights.....
Wish me luck!
your problem is that you have an American car! GO BY A NISSAN OR A HONDA!! :-)
NISMOtuned: You have got to be kidding me. His problem is that he's looking for performance enhancements for a non-performance car. Smiley faces or not, your little statement is flat out wrong. The American aftermarket is alive and well, thankyouverymuch.
At least it doesn't attempt to hop up sedans...
The Sebring is basically a Japanese Car with American clothing. The Sebring Convertible is a American body(Cirrus/Stratus platform) but the coupe Sebring/Avenger is a completely Mitsubishi platform. Basically a 2-door version of the last generation Galant and a stretched platform of the Eclipse/Talon. The 2.5 Litre v-6 engine is also Mitsubishi.
The reason the Sebring JXI convertible doesn't have aftermarket parts available for it is just as bhepler explained above. It's simply that Chrysler wasn't aiming for the "young" boy-racer crowd when they designed the Sebring Convertible. That's where the Neon comes in. The Neon has a healthy aftermarket available. With suspension, engine, and body mods available.
Hopes this helps some.
Anyone know if K&N makes a replacement filter element for the Volvo S70? We've got the non-turbo model, and I'd like to up the power a little bit, but mostly I'd like to save on the cost and waste of paper filter replacement.
Just think about it... If you took a funnel and made the opening bigger and kept the exit the same size you wouldnt be increasing the water flow, you would just increase the amount you could put in at once. You would be surprised, too, exhaust upgrades are generally not to expensive. If you live somewhere they dont have exhaust inspections then you could junk the catalitic convertor (sell it, they are $$$$)
Also, always reset your ECU when performing any performance changes to your car.
While air induction is half the battle, the key is to find out which part of the battle you are losing and fix it. Some factory exhausts are pretty good (not many) and the engine just needs more intake capability. I think most Hondas fall into this catagory. Most exhausts are pretty restrictive. It will depend on your particular model.
I'd like to add a little to chonour's funnel comparison. Generally the funnel is a good way to think about air intake/exhaust. But remember that the engine actually pumps air. So even if you only increase the intake size, flow will increase. The engine won't have to work as hard to suck in intake air. And if you only increase the exhaust size the engine won't have to work as hard to push out the exhaust gases. If you increase both then you've got the best of both worlds.
Most likely, the Flowmasters will only replace the mufflers and associated tubing from after the catalytic converts to the exhaust tips (a cat-back system). In that case, all of your engine monitoring equipment will be intact. You will flow a little bit more air, and the computer will sense this and adjust the engine accordingly.
You'll be fine. As for gas & hp... I don't know.
2) I think it's worth getting the replacement filter... I don't know about the filtercharger kit.
3) No.
4) Probably.
Who is trying to double the price on you?
I noticed a small increase in Hp. Maybe $109.00 worth but not $229.00!
Get a Borla cat-back stainless steel exhaust system.
To answer your intake question, as long as you keep your filter at the top, about where it's at now, and run a pipe down to the bottom of the car facing forward, you will not have any problems with water ingestion. The water ingestion problem comes in to play when you place the filter element at the end of the down spout and the bottom of the car where the filter is basically sitting 5" away from the ground.
Do this little experiement Stand in a parking lot. Ok now lay down on the parking lot. In which position did you feel hotter? (presuming summer time, no Rain) I'd rather stand on pavement than have my face near it.
F-
Since the only reason for using an air filter is to prevent engine wear due to dust/sand and (larger) particles in the air, seems a fair question. I'm concerned about long-term engine life, not just the next 10 or 20K miles. Nobody wants their rings to wear out before the 100,000 mile air filter does.
Wonder if anyone knows of any independent lab test reports comparing the filter efficiency of K&N vs paper at various dust particle sizes?
Take for instance, a Trans-Am with the ram air option.. The intake is mounted into the hood. As long as cooler air from outside the engine compartment is directed into the intake, the desired effect is achieved.
Agreed. I just have read lots of crap where some people claim the closer you get to the ground the cooler the air.
DHK:
I'd like to see a independent study on the PAPER vs cotton.
I haven't read all the earlier posts. Maybe somebody else has already made all the following points.
This is a subject that has always had a lot of voodoo, superstition, mythology, alchemy about it.
Like everyone, I'd like to gain a few bhp as cheaply as possible with no sacrifice of mpg or driveability. That might be possible with a properly-designed induction and/or exhaust system, but gains will be minimal unless you make major changes to valve lift and timing.
It's like thinking that a human body could transfer more oxygen to the blood if it only had a bigger nose. You're still limited by your lungs.
The least restrictive intake possible would be "velocity stacks", but (aside from the issue of air filtering) they would lean out your mixture and burn your valves in short order unless the entire system were designed to take advantage of the larger airflow. Likewise, "ram" air intakes, unless part of a carefully designed sytem, will lean out your mixture at speed, and/or cause it to strangle when you're idling. Lots of Jr hotrodders have destroyed engines that way.
Of course, if you happen to have an engine that's designed for a greater airflow than your intake permits (like having big lungs and blocked nostrils), then you would indeed benefit from a less restrictive intake.
factory warrantee. What can I do that won't void my warrantee?
will not increase horsepower:
a supercharger does what?
it forces more air to enter
during the intake stroke
dramatically increasing
power on any engine.
a K&N filter does not force
any more air than the
engine can take in on its
own. through its design it
allows the engine to breath
much easier than with a stock
filter. now, if your engine
is not designed to handle increased
airflow you may not see the benefits
of increased airflow. many engines
are capable of handling more airflow
than a stock filter can provide.
the stock filter is not made to be restrictive. it just is. they are made
to be cheap and still do the job.
K&N makes filters that are just as
good, if not better, at filtering
the air but also allow 10 to 20
percent more airflow.
as with the supercharger, the engine can breath easier and therefore make more power.
for those who care I own a 99 chevy silverado.
the dyno proven results at the rear wheels are 10 added hp and 20 lb/ft of torque. I can feel the power and have no doubt the K&N filter is worth the money. plus I will never have to pay for a replacement filter.... EVER.
Wouldn't you use a flow bench for this sort of thing? Isn't it hard to hook up a flow bench to a Camaro?
Oh, you said with a dyno. Sorry. Still, .1% increase I would attribute to variables in the run/engine rather than the filter.
However, your point is taken.
One last thing - could you clarify that sentence about the foam filter? I'm not exactly sure what you meant.
I have used k& n,, I think its just a bunch of hype!
I have a Grand Cherokee inline-6. Yeah, I wanted the V-8, but after I made a few modifications. I now have V-8 power with I-6 gas mileage. So, I saved a couple of thousand with the I-6 and I get better gas mileage.
Although, I did spend some money on the modifications, it does sound and look a hell of a lot better than the stock crap...
You can do it all of the mods at once, but you'll have to come up with some change and you won't get to feel the upgrades one by one... You'll appreciate it more in stages.
It started with a wheel upgrade. Wider and bigger is better, no matter what she says... Z-racing 5 spoke and some BF Goodrich T/A's. Then my catallatic converter busted so I said let's do the whole exhaust system. A Magnaflow free flow through converter and performance muffler w/ thicker pipe and a thick polished exhaust tip. Ya don't want bottlenecking. Ahhh, now she can exhale. DO NOT CUT OFF YOUR MUFFLER AND PUT A TIP ON THE END, YOU'LL SOUND LIKE A BEE HIVE TRAPPED IN A TIN CAN... The next logical mod was the inhale. I ripped out that damn air box and order a K&N Filter system from Turbocity.com. Not a little air cartridge, but the whole elbow with cone filter. Now she's breathing well and sounds good, front to back.
But, I wasn't done. I installed a JET II inline chip that plugs inline with the computer. Let me just say "DAMN"... From there, I upgraded my plugs and wires (thicker is better) to help spark it up. After that is just small personal mods: Rancho shocks with front stablizer, Piaa foglights, Window tint, etc... I'm not gonna get into the stereo (Kenwood,Alpine,Bostwick,and Rockford Fosgate). It would take some time.
I installed everything myself (except the exhaust system) to save on labor. I probably bolted on about 50-60 hp on top of the already 190. I don't know how much gas I save because it so easy to go fast...
Who cares what brand name you use, as long as it does the trick. Also, these mods weren't that expensive. Do them yourselves! It's a lot more rewarding that way... Here in Atlanta, It's not just HOT country club moms who drive Grand Cherokees, everyone has one... So, ya got to been seen and heard. Make yourself stick out!!!
Hope this helps. Sorry it's so Damn long...
-powerisfun
...."From there, I upgraded my plugs and wires (thicker is better)"
Not true, the more conductive the better, a bigger wire will disperse the electrical current into more area, hense slowing the current flow. If you are looking for a good set of wires, check for its purity less impurities in the wire let the current flow quicker and with more accuracy.
Ciao
F-
enjoyed reading your post nonetheless.
F-
Jeez, mine attaches with a couple of clips.