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General Intake / Exhaust Mods
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This topic was active in Pickups, since it has
"cross platform" applicability by engine type, we
have relocated it here. Please join the
discussions here.
To read the original notes go to k & n filters in
the Pickups Conference.
Front Porch Philosopher
SUV, Pickup, & Aftermarket and Accessories Host
Oh, and K&Ns are reusable as well as replaceable. Just wash them out, re-oil them, and put them back in.
What do you drive that makes the filter $120? Are you sure it wasn't a filtercharger kit? I use a direct replacement for the stock filter and it was only $55. Four air filter changes and it will pay for itself.
Gormality: It's just like your current filter. If you can change your current air filter, you can change to K&N. The only difference is instead of buying a new filter, you wash out the K&N, put the oil on it, and put it back.
The only way to tell how difficult the job is on any car...slide under the car and look. I wouldn't tackle any job that didn't have bolts and gaskets, i.e. clamps or welded. Also, penetrating oil or spray like WD40 a must.
bucky@computelnet.com
Buck531
Just looking for a few cheap extra horses.
KRIS
Still, I think the filter is worth it just from a price aspect. Summit sells the recharge kit for $8.50. That's for an 8 oz bottle of the filter oil and it will last for several cleanings.
May I suggest you look into an AEM air intake sys.
I installed one in my 142 hp Integra and i can feel the diff. I recorded the tach in 5th gear and I have been getting the same speeds at around 300 rpms less than before. And my gas milage has moved from 32mpg to 37mpg. The only drawback is that the bottom of the air horn is about 8" of the ground. (The car is not lowered). The idea was to grab denser, cool air of the ground instead of the hot air in the hood of a car. AEM says the air intake adds at tops 15 hp. The retailer said an avg of 13. Now I need a good exhaust.......... any suggestions?
That's exactly how the K&N intake kit works. The filter picks up cool, dense air from below the car, something else I have to keep in mind when otherwise splashing through snow, mud, and rain. But in my case, a 15 hp gain on a car that otherwise is cranking out 275 is not huge. Previously in my '91 Mustang, I removed the air horn silencer, and replaced the stock filter with an oiled K&N replacement filter. That felt more noticeable than the change on the Camaro, and it should have been the other way around, since the Camaro also got the less restrictive intake horn and cool dense air from underneath the car. But what it still came down to, in the absence of other mods, was that the Mustang felt faster because it made more intake noise after the changes. I liked it. The Camaro on the other hand sounds the same as before, and a tenth or two at the track is something you have to be real sensitive to feel for, if you don't have the clock there to prove it for you.
Not to call you a liar, but unless you changed your transmission gears or rear-end gears, this isn't possible. Even if your engine puts out an extra 2000hp, the speed at a given rpm in a given gear is a constant. HP increases can't change that.
Now if you get the filtercharger kit or some other cold air induction kit you'll probably notice a difference. But these kits usually start at $150.
However, I buy a K&N for $50, and a can of the filter oil for $6 (Summit catalog). If I get 10 re-oils out of the oil bottle (it's an 8 oz bottle), it still only cost me $56 and I just got 110,000 miles out of it. Even if I only get five re-oils out of the bottle, $62 for 110,000 miles is pretty good, according to my math.
BlackJack: I think I answered this elsewhere, but I can't remember if I was replying to you. In short: save your money, they don't work. If you ask nicely, I'll give you a point by point breakdown of why. I already did this somewhere in the town hall...
The instructions with my K&N says to clean it every 50k miles, I intend to do in about every 10 to 15k. Any thoughts on this?
cdkell - Toyota makes a supercharger for that V6 about $3k.
I tested my SHO Taurus with mild mods (207 at the wheels, 245 at the flywheel) with the stock airbox re-installed and tested three air filters.
New oiled foam (Amsoil, but the Accell is the exact same design), New OEM paper filter and New K&N oiled gauze. I did 3 runs for each filter with the engine cooled down the same amount of time before every test. I did a before and after baseline to check for changes. The results were averaged.
The Oiled foam was 3 hp down pretty much across the rpm band from the paper filter and the K&N was 3 hp UP on the paper filter.
Note the measurable gains were from 1500 rpm to redline with peak being about 3 hp and the lowest being 1. Overall I would say it was over 2.5 hp for the entire rpm band.
While I had the dyno shop I sold K&N air filters and tested gains of as much as 10 hp on certain cars, usually Corvettes or higher powered cars, this goes right along with what another person here said that the K&N is worth more, the more HP you get. I still sell the filters on my web site/mail order business.
Of interest was a test of a dirt track car with a typical big round K&N air filter. When we put on the K&N "precharger" foam pre-filter, the engine lost more than 10 HP! You pay to keep out the big chunks of dirt track!
3 or even 10 hp is not really enough to "feel" but per dollar it's about the cheapest and easiest HP you can buy.
Also by oil analysis I have proved to my own satisfaction that the K&N cleans as well as a stock paper filter.
Don
please.
Thanx
>Well, as some of you have been eagerly
>anticipating the dyno day III results from today
>here in Houston. Here you go!
>
>We tested the Fram vs K&N filter dispute on two
>different cars. The same filters were used on
>both cars. A brand new Fram filter and my K&N
>that I cleaned last night.
>
>First car - '99 WS6 Trans-Am M6
>
>HP difference: 0.2 hp winner = K&N
>TQ difference: 0.1 ft-lbs winner = K&N
>
>Second car - '98 Bone stock Z/28 A4
>
>HP difference: 0.2 hp winner = Fram
>TQ difference: 0.1 ft-lbs winner = K&N
>
>The curves on the dyno were exactly the same for
>both pulls on both cars. There were NO gains at
>all from just changing filter types. Who gives a
>d_mn about 0.2 hp and 0.1 ft-lbs, which could
>easily have been caused by the engine warming up.
>
>On the first car, the first pull was made with
>the K&N, second with the Fram
>
>On the second car, the first pull was made with
>the Fram, second with the K&N.
>
>So, put the filter dyno theory to rest, those of
>you that showed any losses or gains just from a
>filter on a dyno probably tested on inaccurate
>dynos. All of the cars dynoed today ran nearly
>identical pulls on the first and second pulls.
>We dynoed about 18 cars today also. I would say
>that the MTI dyno easily repeats the same results
>after seeing this.
>
>So, run whatever filter you like, they perform
>the same. I just like the K&N because I can
>clean it over and over again.
The Akimoto intake (see below) makes that noise because you have removed the airbox, and now have an open air filter sitting in your engine bay. The Akimoto "funnel ram" kit includes the extra tubing, but the basic kit is the filter, an "air horn" which looks suspiciously like an adapter, and a clamp to mount onto your stock air inlet tube. From what I understand, the Akimoto uses a K&N for the filter element.
Before...
After...
Wow, thanks for the explanation! Is that a Prelude (pre-97) motor sitting in the engine bay? Sure looks sweet! Okay then... so it's the entire Akimoto assembly that makes the sound. Of all of the other intake systems (DC Sports, GReddy, etc) which produces the most "sound?"
As for intake sound comparisons, I can't help you there. I just have the replacement filter tucked away in an airbox.
However, IMHO, the best intake sound is the sound of a blow-off valve to a forced induction engine. I think some companies actually make sort of "horns" for their blow-off valves.
If the above doesn't work, get the K&N filter replacement anyway as a beginning. If there is an air silencer (kind of a snork looking thing on your airbox) yank it out.
Other than that, contact the typical gamut of aftermarket manufacturers, and ask them when they'll be ready. They will probably tell you if their product will fit the new model.
however, i am curious, if changing the airfilter would add an extra oomph to its already excellent pull....
although i have plans to rechip the ecu and maybe later upgrade the k03 turbocharger to a k04 (similar to the audi tt) BUT, i'm worried about the warranty of the engine if i do change this items......
help..
you need to get a cold air intake for your car! That will keep the air cool as it goes into the MAF. I don't know if they make one for your car or not....
So what I did was, about 2 weeks ago, purchased a universal kit made by PRM. They make cold air systems. Basically what it uses is a K&N conical filter but wraps it in a plastic housing. This way no warm or hot air is ingested during the summer months and the filter also stays cleaner. They make a universal kit that kits any car with a 3" opening, which is most cars, and then they also make specific application cold-air intakes with full downpipes, etc.
With the universal filter I basically bought some 3" diameter dryer ducting from Home Depot. I simply ran it from the PRM filter assembly down to the bottom of the car. This way I get cold air or cooler air even in the summer and the filter stays cleaner.
After installing it I noticed a big difference in running smoothness and a slight increase in performance. Basically, now the engine revs smoother with less dips in power and alot less hesitation in warm weather. Higher end power has been increased because of the "ramming" effect this setup has. And it's also louder at high RPM's than my previous setup was.
PRM makes the Race cold air intake for your car. You didn't have to get the universal one, they make it for the v-6 mx-6 and sure that one fits the probe. I use a aem cold air intake in my 99 civic and that works great. Very nicely engineered. Also try reseting your ecu, i get better gas mileage and seems like more power.
My friend replaced his PRM system with the AEM setup on his Prelude. I have to say that is one of the best made aftermarket systems I have ever seen.