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Store Bought Car Waxes (No Zaino Posts, Please)

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Comments

  • wc3georgewc3george Member Posts: 23
    Okay, folks, here it is: The web site for Duragloss.

    http://www.spyder.net/duragloss/

    By the way, the site says that Duragloss products are available at the following auto parts stores:

    Auto Value, AMA, Carquest, Parts Plus, Pronto, and NAPA. As I said, I bought the polish at Advance Auto.

    I didn't realize they had such a large product array. The only products Advance carries are the two polishes, the car wash, and the cleaner.

    I really am pleased with the results. Happy hunting.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #101

    I use Meguairs liquid cleaner all in one on a daily driver that sits side by side with another daily driver that has Zaino z-1, z-2.
    The M product lasted max 1.2 mo
    The Z product is going on its 6th mo.
    Both products are easy to apply. I have washed both trucks at the same time with eaches recommended car wash.
    I don't know what the math in the ratio indicated to you, but it will be an interesting discussion for sure. (One thing I don't enjoy is getting the same results working 5 x's as hard)
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #104 addendum

    Also I forgot to say, that there is one way to make waxing even less of an ordeal. It is a tad controversial. The horizontal painted surfaces are more fully exposed to the elements than the vertical surfaces. (memory fads on me a bit, I believe it is 3-1)
  • jvcnjvcn Member Posts: 50
    I just bought a small 8 oz. bottle of Duragloss Clear Coat Polish to try out. The price was $7.69 at Carquest. The dealer also recommended their prep liquid for $3.89. Says that it's a prep for the application of polymeric polishes and helps the Duragloss "bond".

    Hmmm... It's beginning to sound like Z on the cheap. Whether the last part is true or not, this seems like a cheap way to try out a polymer polish. When the weather gets better I'll try it and report on my results vs. Meg's Gold Class Wax.
  • wc3georgewc3george Member Posts: 23
    It does sound a bit like the censored polish, but definitely cheaper.

    I've never used the prep liquid, and the polish seems to "bond" just fine.

    I'll be interested to hear your results using the prep liquid.
  • jvcnjvcn Member Posts: 50
    So I bit the bullet and applied the Duragloss as carefully as possible, first double washing the car, then claying, then applying the prep and then applying a thin layer of Duragloss over it. Wait for 30-40 minutes, wipe and buff off.

    Initial impression: smooth, even shine. Very reflective, clean looking. But, the nagging impression is that it's not the same, and not quite as nice as a good polish and wax job.

    At this point, a friend offers to let me try some Boyd's Ultraviolet paste wax he has, which is a high carnauba wax with polish I think.

    So I unscientifically apply a second coat of Duragloss to most of the car a day later, BUT I apply the Boyd's wax to part of the right side and part of the roof.

    My conclusion, the polymer improves with the second coat, but the wax over the first polymer coat has a ... umm... glow, lustre, or depth of shine that is nicer than the polymer, particularly when seen in direct sunlight or at night under bright artificial lighting. Sort of like the difference between polyurethaned wood floor and old-fashioned wood that's been properly waxed.

    However, I assume that the polymer will last longer, and at the price, the Duragloss is much cheaper than Z (under $8 for 8oz, under $20 for a 32 oz container), widely available, and competitive with meguiar's.

    The bottom line however, is that IMHO for the best short term lustre (at least on my champagne gold car)good wax is best, but for practical use, the Duragloss wins. (Always assuming the polymer holds up as expected.)

    I'll update as time goes by.
  • avs007avs007 Member Posts: 100
    What's everyone concensus on the Meguiars 3 step Crystal Polish System?

    Is it a good product, or no?
  • DonaldjrDonaldjr Member Posts: 6
    avs,

    I used Meguiars three step deep crystal system on my silver ZX2. I was very impressed. I did not think silver could be so glossy. My dad said it looked wet. I then did his white metallic maxima for his birthday. he said that he was surprised that white could shine so much. In my own unscientific opinion, it is an excellent product. Expect to spend at least 4 hours doing all three steps. One suggestion is that you perform step two, the polish coat, twice for maximum gloss. However, you may have some difficulty finding a store that carries all three steps. If you already have, great.

    One thing tho. You do not really have to do the polish step or even the cleaner step(step 1) every time. I would only do step one in the spring, step two twice or three times a year, and step 3, the wax, anytime you feel like it.


    Don
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    Here's a question. I have used Nu Finish for years and found it to last about a year. I tried Turtle Wax Emerald Paste on my new car and did a test strip of Nu Finish to compare the two waxes. Well, at 6 weeks both have stopped beading water. I am using the same car wash soap as before. The only thing that changed from when I was getting a year with Nu Finish is the car. And the Nu Finish was from a can about 2 years old.

    1. Can different paint make that much a difference in how long a wax lasts?

    2. The car was brand new. Could there have been something on the paint that made both waxes not last as long as they should have? I did not use any strong detergent or clay before waxing.

    3. Could the age of the Nu Finish be the reason it didn't last this time?

    I am thinking about washing and claying just the hood, then redoing the Emerald/Nu Finish test to see if they last any longer on a cleaned surface.
  • ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    Emerald never lasted very long in my experience
  • miatamiata Member Posts: 1
    auto magic works well easy on and off. great shine. But its doesnt hold up for any amount of time. know any other that is quick and easy
    signed 90 miata
  • shcst12shcst12 Member Posts: 34
    I just got my car from body shop yesterday, they paint my driver-side dorr panel because someone gave me a big scratch #@^$&%!@. Anyway, I want to know how to take care of "new paint"? HOw long do I need to wait before I wash/clay/wax this car? I hate to see my car dirty, is there anything I can do right now? Please help me here, thank you!
  • va206rdva206rd Member Posts: 1
    Was in the car Preservation business a long time ago and the paint Etc. that's used today is far superior. Use prisim on the black/gray plastic. Won't get white and put on rinse off with hose. Lasting power ???? I use NuFinish in Orange bottle. Seems to last long time.
    Haven't checked Consumer Reports lately but should as spring is here and the baby needs a wax job. I can do the car after the wife gets done with her legs..
  • rallykidrallykid Member Posts: 1
    Hmmm...I am kind of confused. A friend of mine told me that to prevent swirl mark, I should wax the car in one direction (front to back or up and down) instead of circular. I just got a new car and it is my first car in black, so I don't want to screw it up swirl marks. Any ideas?
  • avs007avs007 Member Posts: 100
    In my experience, I was told that if you are doing it by hand, you *can't* put swirl marks in the car... I heard you can only get swirls if you use a buffer...

    Anyways, I have a black car, and I use circular motions, and I don't have swirls... I use the 3-step Crystal Polish system by Meguiars, so it probably got rid of the swirls, because I remember when I first got my car there were some swirls on the rear quarter-panel...
  • mavrckmavrck Member Posts: 5
    After many years of waxing (and SWIRLING), I finally discovered the secret of avoiding swirl marks (hand waxing).

    Have numerous terry cloth towels on hand (I use small white ones). Keep turning the towel to a clean side & switch to a clean towel when needed. If you don't change towels often enough, you'll get a buildup of wax on the surface of the towel which will leave you with the infamous swirl marks.
  • lannilanni Member Posts: 1
    Meguiar's works great and a fresh side of any cloth is always a +.
    An orbital polisher can also be a +.
    Lanni LeBlanc

    ps Hey you guys, what's up with your Q & A, I've
    tried to printout on 2 diff computers and the print on the right side of the pages is cuttoff?
    Help...love that Q&A, tho!
    thnx, LL
  • airscrewairscrew Member Posts: 1
    read the fine print where it says who manufactures the european named waxes and polishes
    you all might be surprised. if you can't figure out the manufacturer, check out the city/address.
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    What European named waxes? And why not just tell us what you mean? Thanks.
  • joecarojoecaro Member Posts: 44
    I guess I'm a little dense. You'll have to hit me over the head with a 2x4. What waxes are you referring to?
  • ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    Maybe he meant Zymol? Looks like it could be German.
  • shomanshoman Member Posts: 97
    Check with your painter about their specific recommendations, but usually if you wait a couple of weeks, that is plenty of time for paint to cure. Go easy on new paint, don't use anything with an abrasive and use the softest cloth you can find.
    Also, on swirls, you can get them if you take stuff off by hand. I find they happen most often with dirty cloths (the recommendation to keep the cloth clean is a good one) and if you apply too much pressure, no matter what cloth or how clean. A fine weave soft cotton cloth is better than a bath towel.

    Don
  • reBMWreBMW Member Posts: 26
    i suggest that when the wax is "wax on", it be put on very thinnly so that the paint is covered but only looks sort of dull, not with big streaks of fresh wax. then when it is time to "wax off", there is much less dried wax to remove and it will require much less pressure. using clean towels and turning them often are great but if the car has a crusty coating of wax it is extremely hard to get the wax off without swirl/scratch marks from pushing hard enough to get all that dried wax yuk off the car. it's only the first 1/64 of an inch or less of the wax that does any good anyway so why waste all your wax, time and effort unnecessarily?
  • bernard1bernard1 Member Posts: 58
    Duragloss or Mequires? Which works best. I've been using Mequires Polish and then #26 wax. The finsih was great but did not last too long. A friend of mine uses Duragloss and swears by it. His cars have a really great shine. Plus he doesn't spend hours polishing. Anyone have any experience with both products?

    As polishes give shine and waxes give protection, with Duragloss polish, do you need a coat of wax or just the duragloss?
  • GroveGrove Member Posts: 9
    What are suggestions for people with soft tops and plastic fender flares. I would like to use Armor All or Finish2000 for a great " wet " look but do not know any long term effects (i.e. fading).
    Please help
  • avs007avs007 Member Posts: 100
    Stay away from armorall as if it were the plague... They contain petroleum distillates which will actually dry out and crack your plastic/vinyl.... (and tires)

    Would you put rubbing alcohol on your hands to keep them moist and supple? Didn't think so...

    For Vinyl/Plastic use Lexol Vinylex...
    For Leather, use Lexol Leather Conditioner or Hide Food, or the Z-stuff....
    For tires, use No-Touch... or whatever you like... Just make sure it says, "Contains no petroleum distillates"
  • avs007avs007 Member Posts: 100
    If it says skin irritant, don't use it on your leather... After all, what is leater? I put my Lexol on with my bare hands, and work it into the leather... Makes my seats nice and soft and supple... And makes my hands as soft as a baby's butt at the same time :)
  • hciaffahciaffa Member Posts: 454
    Hi all, I'm new to this forum and I 've found it pretty interesting as well as informative. I'm what you would call a car nut and I take great pride in keeping my cars in great looking condition. I have spent much money and time in finding the best car wax, in fact my basement used to look like a Pep Boys display of different waxes and car washes. then I ran across 'Liquid Glass' products. This is the best wax I have ever used. It is a liquid polish and it goes on as any other but when it buffs off it is the easiest one I have ever found. The trick is that when your done waxing it is recommended to leave the car out in the sun to help 'bake' on the finish and a second coat is recommended. When washing they have a wash to enhance the finish . The gloss last the longest even through harsh New England winters and even the salt used on the roads. This polish leaves a hard acrylic finish, and with each coat that you apply it gets better and the finish gets harder. Example, a neighbors cat jumped onto the engine hood only to slide off leaving paw scratches on the paint. I was p'oed. I thought that I need to have the hood repainted but I thought I would try to apply a coat of polish. To my amazement, because the Liquid Glass leaves acrylic coat the new wax just blended into the old wax and the scratches were gone. The wax cost about 12-14 dollars. Give it a try, I think that you may like it.
  • chang0027chang0027 Member Posts: 4
    Hi everyone,

    I have been happy with car wash (few times a year) at gas station (mostly because I am physically challenged and don't want to spend a lot of time and money on the car), until I got this '99 dark blue Odyssey. Everytime after rain, the dirt on the van is pretty obvious. I can't stand it and am open to any solution, easy one though :), including polishing and waxing.

    My goal is to keep the van "look" clean.
    My ideal solution:
    1. least work and easy to apply
    2. last longest (at least 8 month for waxing)
    3. inexpensive

    From what i read from this thread, looks like NuFinish - for durability (maybe clay before that) maybe the answer? Also, can anyone comment on NuFinish's paste and liquid on durability and time spent (I assume they are in can and bottle respectively)

    Thanks
  • shomanshoman Member Posts: 97
    I tried the orange bottle of nufinish and was horrified at the results. It put a very unnatural look on the horse trailer I tried it on (would not try it on a good car before some other trial) and what shine it did put on only lasted about a month. The paint appears to be permanently damaged and a repaint is in the plan. I do not recommend this product obviously.
    The problem is that they claim to remove oxidation, scratches and still protect the finish for a long time. In reality, you need two products to do that, one to clean/shine and another to protect. Do it right and your paint will last longer and look better.

    Don M.
  • HolliwoodHolliwood Member Posts: 46
    The best polish/protectant off the store shelf I've used is Liquid Glass. It goes on easy, but may require a little "elbow grease". Leaves a good shine and protective finish for about 3 months in the hot summer and al little longer in the winter. I don't use it now because I found the "Z" polish to shine better and lasts longer than any store brand. As for its application time, that's hogwash about it taking forever to apply. Z-1 is only required maybe 2-3 times a year, while Z-2 is the acual polish that goes on super easy and comes off even easier. It leaves no residue and looks great through several washes. I know I wasn't suppose to mention the "Z" polish, but misinformation is always abundant on the "net" and since I have used every polish and/or wax mentioned in this 132 message thread I thought I'd clear up the false info. But, if you don't want any mail order polishes and Walmart, Advance Auto, and Pep Boys is your fort`e try Liquid Glass.
  • jvcnjvcn Member Posts: 50
    Followup on my Duragloss/Boyd's wax comparison. After a few rains and a wash, the wax over Duragloss and Duragloss only sides look identical.

    Water still beads well. Car looks good. I'll stick to the Duragloss. Seems like the best all around compromise. Reasonably priced, available at Carquest or mail order, and according to another poster identical in results to Z. I cannot vouch for the last, but it does look reasonable and so far (not yet 2 weeks) is holding up well.

    However, I seem to be the only person who thinks that the waxed look is (when freshly applied) better than the polymer look. So I'll stick to Duragloss for ease, but if I want to make it look good (for me) for a night on the town, I'll put some quality wax over the polymer. YMMV.
  • dsomersdsomers Member Posts: 20
    Interesting you would say that about the wax look. I have often noticed that myself. I am not sure if it is the shine or the coloration but wax does seem to give a "richer" character to the gloss. The Z or other polymer shine is definately brighter, but is somehow colder. Maybe this is due to the optical clarity of polymers vs. the ever so slight yellow tinge of carnauba wax. Or, I could be just imagining it. Glad to hear someone else notices it too, though.
  • jvcnjvcn Member Posts: 50
    I doubt it is the color as the shine has a different character. Too bad my preferences are so weird. It would be nice to be a polymer fanatic and be done with it.

    At least I've lost the urge to experiment. I've pretty much made up my mind about the relative merits of the two types of wax/polish and will use either as the need or mood takes me.

    Anyway, now I know that if I become a billionaire and own a dozen show cars, I'll hire someone to wax them up every week! :)
  • ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    The look of a Z-ed car is as if it was shrink wrapped in a high quality shrink wrap.
  • jvcnjvcn Member Posts: 50
    Ok, that's another way of describing what I see with the Duragloss.

    I guess I prefer (my ideal) would be the just waxed look. Looks more "natural" to me.

    But then my floors are polyurethaned and my car is Duraglossed. Laziness wins over aesthetics.
  • binubinu Member Posts: 81
    ruski !!

    since you have used both the meguiars and the Z
    , do you find any noticeable difference between the two in terms of protection, shine and durability ..?

    regards
    binu
  • shcst12shcst12 Member Posts: 34
    Anyone knows which brand of wax do not leave white residue on rubber part? Also is it a good product overall? Thanks
  • dsomersdsomers Member Posts: 20
    Can the Z talk. It is so distasteful. Take it to the all Zaino group, please.
  • HolliwoodHolliwood Member Posts: 46
    Go to the other topic "Waxes an Polishes". Zaino is getting most of the raves and comparisons. This is evidence of how well it works.
  • drscopemdrscopem Member Posts: 83
    Hi:
    Have read the posts both here and on the "Zaino network". I have tried 3 products that are only polymers - Finish First, Klasse, and Zaino. I did not have any problems with any. I also did not see any difference between Klasse and Zaino regarding color, depth, or clarity. Finish First makes the car look new but I couldn't get it to look Concours quality.
    My favorite carnauba liquid is Best of Show by Griot's Garage. My favorite paste is Blitz Wax by One Grand Products - it really is the easiest paste to apply. If it has to be "store bought" I like Wax Shop's Glaze (although it lasts only 4-6 weeks), Meguiar's Medallion, and Eagle One Wet Paste.
  • shawnmaloneshawnmalone Member Posts: 71
    They died by the thousands, their dried bodies testimony to the extraordinary perserverance of their various species.

    Now they form a crust on the windshield and front end of the car. Three hours, a sponge, and an Armour All brand product called "Bug and Tar Remover" have all failed. Suggestions?
  • pblevinepblevine Member Posts: 858
    Bugs,
    Try a little engine oil to soften the little dead bodies. Then wash with Dawn and Clay your car. Claying the car WILL remove that previously flying residue. But you will then have to wash the car again and reapply your wax (or Z) of choice. Good Luck.
  • shcst12shcst12 Member Posts: 34
    does anyone tries the Gold Class Prep from Meguiar's? Its purpose is to remove contaminants before waxing, as well as smoothen the clear coat surface. Anyway, how's that product? Is it really necessary to use it? Can it replace claying? Comments are welcome.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #146
    Yes I have tried Gold Class Prep. Yes it does remove contaminants and smooth out the clear coat surface. Product is a pre conditioner for the Gold Class. If surface is fairly wonderful, you dont need to use it. If you think it replaces claying try it side to side. You can make your own mind up if the claying is worth the extra cost and work.
    (To me it is a no brainer, do the clay)
  • binubinu Member Posts: 81
    I have used the meguiars prep and found that it removes tar and bugs very well ...
    All you need to do is apply a bit of the liquid onto an applicator and then rub it on the paint till the tar vanishes ...
    "I" have found it to be better than claying ..( unless I have not been doing the claying right )
  • vivonavivona Member Posts: 410
    I have washed my new car hood thoroughly with Ivory diswashing detergent, then clayed it with Clay Magic. Then I waxed a strip in Nu Finish, a strip in Meguiars Cleaner Wax, one in Turtle Wax Emerald Paste and one in the Wet Wax that comes with Clay Magic. So now I have the makings of the great car wax test.

    Since this is a new car with silver metallic clearcoat that already is very glossy, I can't judge how well any of the waxes would improve the gloss of an older paint job. But I will keep track of how well water beads over the months and report back on which wax lasts longest.

    As to application ease, not a lot of difference. The Turtle Wax was a bit easier to apply and remove than the others, but not by much.

    It would be great if others would set up similar tests and report the results. My goal is to find an easy to use store-bought wax that lasts a long time...like 8 months to a year. I want something that goes on in one step, comes off easily, doesn't hurt clearcoat, looks great and lasts a real long time. Hopefully one of these will do it, since the first three were top rated in the Consumer Reports test.
  • binubinu Member Posts: 81
    Everyone ,,

    I watched the Prolong Paint sealant infomercial for the 3rd time today on TV ..
    Looks like a great product( if an ad can be believed) ..
    The ad goes to the extent of spraying a can of paint on a car which was treated with Prolong paint sealant and then the demonstrator just wipes the paint off clean with a towel ..

    another scenario ...shows another guy spraying sand at a high pressure onto the paint and the paint is still undamaged ...

    I have seen this product in Target or somewhere but havent used it yet ... will probably wait till my pile of meguiar's run out ..

    has anyone else used this product ..?
  • chungyenchungyen Member Posts: 1
    I am also very interested in knowing how good the Prolong stuff worked. It just looked so incredible in those infomercial.

    What makes it attractive to me is the ease to apply it (at least that's what they said in the infomercial). They even had an old gentleman (probably in his 70's or 60's) sitting in a wheelchair and applied the Prolong to his shinny vehicle.

    I want my cars look nice but also want to spend as little time on waxing and polishing as possible. I want to spend my time with my children rather then with my cars. Most of the other waxes or polishes I have used takes a long time to apply or to buff off. I hope this prolong thing is really as easy to use as it claims.

    I will probably try it if I can find it in my local stores. If anyone has tried it already, please share your experience.
  • ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    why try prolong if you can have the proven Z?
This discussion has been closed.