By accessing this website, you acknowledge that Edmunds and its third party business partners may use cookies, pixels, and similar technologies to collect information about you and your interactions with the website as described in our
Privacy Statement, and you agree that your use of the website is subject to our
Visitor Agreement.
Comments
The improvement was remarkable. The cleaner took off a layer of dirt that remained after washing and left a nice shine by itself. I'm now thinking about trying the Meguiars on my '98 which has a shiny finish though I am not sure if I need to use all three steps.
So on a new shiny car, use Nu Finish. I just did my whole new car in Nu Finish and the shine is awesome, the finish feels very slick and it beads rain into balls that dance above the surface.
On an older car that has lost its gloss, use Meguiars to restore the gloss. When the Meguairs stops beading, you can switch back to Nu Finish if you want the longest time before you wax again. If the car ever gets dull, use Meguiars again.
Any other suggestions besides Nufinish for decent shine & durability?
I also have a "96 green Cherokee with spots from bird droppings on the hood. I've washed & waxed several times, but the blemishes from the droppings remain.
Any suggestions as to what may get rid of them besides polishing compound?
Like any good product, you should prep the surface with a good wash, clay if needed and use a polish to get back shine if your shine isn't good enough to suit you. Other than that, you apply one coat of Collinite and that's it!
More coats might give a bit more longevity, but it's not going to do much for shine and I have never needed more than one coat per "detail".
Sorry to take so long to reply, I don't check in every day.
Don M>
Or even mixing both? I have heard that many times detailers mix products to cut down on one step.
Any info is appreciated.
Or use a gloss-enhancing polish (not wax) before Nu Finish. Or use a cleaner (not polish or wax) before Meguiars.
I wouldn't mix or sequentially apply Nu Finish and Meguiars because the polymer actions could be affected or offset. Its not nice to mess with Mother Nature (your paint). I guess you could run some tests in an inconspicuous area, if there is such an area on a car.
Will the "Best of Show" wax leave white residue on my hard plastic and rubber mouldings? I have a Black Passat with hard black plastic lower strips on the body and want ot know if this wax will get into the grain of the plastic and haunt me.
I would appreciate any info from anyone who has used this product thanks.
Very informative topic....Just have a question for everyone here. I bought Meguirar's cleaner/wax product in addition to their polish #2. I know the polish is supposed to be put on the car before applying meguirar's carnauba wax #3. But i wanted to clean and wax the car with one application instead of buying the cleaner, polisher, and wax separately. Therefore, should i apply the cleaner/wax combo first after a wash and then the polish. Thanks for the help
I don't htink that much of Armor All products, but I have almost a lifetime supply of Armor Plate (i ahve about 50 little "not for resale" bottles). I've found that it gives the paint a nice feeling to it but does this stuff protect similar to wax? If i use the armor plate after the car is just washed to give it a smooth feeling, will it reduce the amount of time i have to wax/polish or will I just be wasting my time? I don't mind using the armor plate since a) it's free and b) it's a very easy to use spray that takes about 10 minutes for whole car
I tried the Meguiar's Cleaner/Wax this past weekend, and am very happy with the shine and the just waxed look and feel. Today I am going out to buy the Quik Detailer.
The Wax Shop does have nice products. I have used the Super Glaze and it is a thin liquid that is easy to apply, even in cold weather, and does not build up. If I recall correctly, it contains about 8% carnauba wax and should be reapplied every 4 to 6 weeks.
Frequent users can save by buying in bulk. Try their website at www.waxdepot.com.
Good luck.
need a little more info on what to start using. Just bought a new 99 red Rodeo and it seems to have not a bit of wax (no beads). I've used Nufinish previously and found easy to put on and off(liquid wax). Is there something better and just as easy for the new truck or should I buy Nufinish again. I also have a 90 Accord burgundy, with some light scratches on the hood. Wonder if
I should try clay as so many people have done. Will it take off the scratches??
I also have been on the Zaino post and am not sure
if I can tackle that job, although most people
love that product. Appreciate some help.... Thanks
I went on the waxdepot.com and was quite interested in their products, except if it only
last for 8 weeks, I may be better off buying
nu-finish which lasts much longer. Are you sure
it only lasts 2 months?? Is their products better
than Nu-Finish??
personalized vehicle maintenance schedule. They don't bug you later just because they have details about you or your vehicle.
Comes in a green bottle or plastic "tin".
Rick
very impressed with the shine. Bug splatters and bird droppings come off very easily.
is it any good or just a bunch of bull?
Thanks
Been an Astroshield user for many years. I made the switch to the z product. That doesnt mean Astro shield is not good. (I still have it)
I use the Meguiars 3 step system on my cars (spring & fall). I wash them once a week and then apply the Quick Detailer after washing. This works out great. The wax seems to last longer and the quick detailer "tells" me when it's time to wax again.
This system works out great and I would recommend it to anyone.
It is as good as it gets and you have seen for yourself. If, for example you do a #26 over the gold class or substitute #26 in place of gold class, it will be more difficult. This of course, brings you to the best reasons and the worse reasons to take it to the next step... ie use a buffer/polisher. I would not recommend it for any number of reasons.
The wax, IMO, is extremely difficult to "get off". A friend of mine stopped using Gold Class for exactly that reason. Seems to me that you have to buff off (with towel) and off and off and off.
Never had tried #26.
Rick
It sounds like you have the drill down. Gold Class is less difficult to get off than Meguairs #26. Other than using the thinest of coats, there is no easy way. You can rub it in till it almost disappears, but that is even more work than you have described. While this is not a Z product forum, it is far far easier to remove.
As you know #40 is even advertised as dull. I like the fact that it doesnt have silicon. Frankly the Z product is just a bit shinier but not much.
Both are good; get the paste wax, NOT the liquid.
Rick
Dave
I can't tell.
ok, ok, sorry - I just could not help myself.
-What is it?
-How does it work?
-What are its advantages/disadvantages?
Thanks in advance!
Wow, those are great pictures. How many coats of Zaino did you use?
Clay: Basically 'clay' is a chemical compound which feel like that old silly putty. Clay like. Soft and maluable. There are several brands on the market: Clay Magic, Erazer, etc.
These 'clays' are rubbed over the surface of the car's finish along with a lubricant to stop the clay from sticking to the paint. The clay acts like a sticky solid and all sorts of particals stick to its surface. It draws off those particals which are really stuck into your clearcoat or paint.
Washing will remove most dirt but not those tiny metal particals which are the product of braking. Brake dust is all over. And along with other hard particals, they stick in your clearcoat in such a fashion as to create little tiny holes in the upper layer of the clearcoast. If left untreated, the metalic dust will oxidize and leave small pit holes in the finish.
Using clay just prior to a good wax or polymer like Zaino will remove these particals and leave your car's finish very smooth. Then the wax or polymer can truly protect.
Disadvantages: Using clay involves some effort. But you don't have to do it frequently (once a year). Its worth it!
I want something fast off the shelves to put on with a great shine. What can i use to shine my rubber mud guards.
New Galant? Great choice of car!
whats the better one for my 99 blk galant, how can i get rid of swirls. i heard that Nu Finish is for older cars.
proceed in haste - regret in leisure
If you insist on an off-the-shelf product, consider Meguiar's Medallion series or 3M Ultra High Gloss. Either is available at most NAPA stores or try Pep Boys. If you want carnauba only, try the Wax Shop series.
Good luck.
Nu Finish doesn't have much in the way of abrasives, so it wouldn't be as good for removing swirls. What Nu Finish excels at is cleaning and long-term durability. It is fine for new cars.
Both of these waxes are cheap, about $5.00 for a container. Find out what works best for your car by buying both, then wax half your hood with one, the other half with the other wax. Check for gloss and other appearance differences. Watch the amount of beading over time and how well the finish looks. In a few months you will see one outlast the other. That will most likely be the Nu Finish. If the appearance was not that different, then do the whole car in Nu Finish. If you liked the look of the Meguiars and don't mind waxing more often, do the whole car in Meguiars.
Doing this test once will guide you for the remaining ownership life of your car. It is time and money well spent.
I was noticing lots of rough spots that looked kind of like little water spots in my clear coat. My car's only a 98, but black so it shows everything. I went to NAPA and bought Clay Magic, and it worked great.
I got the red kind; I know, I've read on here that blue is less abrasive, but red worked.
One word of caution: the thing is so incredibly slippery... It says on the box to throw it away if you drop it. Of course, I dropped it before I was even half finished claying my car. I refuse to pay another $30 for another clay, so I just pinched off any part that even looked like dirt had TOUCHED it, and it worked fine again. I thought clay wouldn't do much for a newish car with a clear coat, but it made a huge difference. I'm a believer.
One question: the Napa guys said that plain water would work fine as a lubricant, but I was a little leery so I went ahead and used a solution. Can anybody confirm or dispute that water is enough?