I'd never done more than occasionally wash my cars and then wax with Nufinish two or three times a year. After reading these posts I decided to try the clean, polish, wax Meguiars system. Two days ago I spent the better part of a day working on my '88 Beretta which has a decent finish. It looks good afterwards but not much better than after a quicker one step waxing. Yesterday I tried the Meguiars on my '87 Acura which has a dull finish even though I just washed and waxed it last week. The improvement was remarkable. The cleaner took off a layer of dirt that remained after washing and left a nice shine by itself. I'm now thinking about trying the Meguiars on my '98 which has a shiny finish though I am not sure if I need to use all three steps.
According to Consumer Reports, and backed up by my wax test, Meguiars does an excellent job of providing gloss, but doesn't last as long as Nu Finish. Nu Finish is a good cleaner, but it doesn't have any abrasives to polish and add gloss...but Nu Finish will outlast probably any other wax.
So on a new shiny car, use Nu Finish. I just did my whole new car in Nu Finish and the shine is awesome, the finish feels very slick and it beads rain into balls that dance above the surface.
On an older car that has lost its gloss, use Meguiars to restore the gloss. When the Meguairs stops beading, you can switch back to Nu Finish if you want the longest time before you wax again. If the car ever gets dull, use Meguiars again.
Just got a new car which was built on June 10. Should I wait to wax it? Any other suggestions besides Nufinish for decent shine & durability?
I also have a "96 green Cherokee with spots from bird droppings on the hood. I've washed & waxed several times, but the blemishes from the droppings remain. Any suggestions as to what may get rid of them besides polishing compound?
This is opinion not fact. But I would try claying your Cherokee to remove said droppings. Either Clay Magic or Erazer Clay should do the job. You might also try a few drops of 10D40 oil.
Like any good product, you should prep the surface with a good wash, clay if needed and use a polish to get back shine if your shine isn't good enough to suit you. Other than that, you apply one coat of Collinite and that's it! More coats might give a bit more longevity, but it's not going to do much for shine and I have never needed more than one coat per "detail". Sorry to take so long to reply, I don't check in every day.
anyone have any opinions about first using nufinish to clean car then applying Meguiars immediately after? Seems like you would have the best of both worlds....... Or even mixing both? I have heard that many times detailers mix products to cut down on one step. Any info is appreciated.
If your goal was to get the benefits of Nu Finish's cleaning ability along with Meguiar's gloss, I don't know what a mix or sequential application would do. It seems that you would save labor by alternating the waxes i.e. Nu Finish to clean, get a reasonable gloss and provide long lasting protection. When the paint needs more gloss, use Meguiars. When the Meguiars wears off, go back to Nu Finish.
Or use a gloss-enhancing polish (not wax) before Nu Finish. Or use a cleaner (not polish or wax) before Meguiars.
I wouldn't mix or sequentially apply Nu Finish and Meguiars because the polymer actions could be affected or offset. Its not nice to mess with Mother Nature (your paint). I guess you could run some tests in an inconspicuous area, if there is such an area on a car.
I recently got the GG catalog and am planning on getting one of thier waxes. I think that the "Best of Show" wax would be ideal for me and I will get one of thier orange applicators to go with it. My question is this...
Will the "Best of Show" wax leave white residue on my hard plastic and rubber mouldings? I have a Black Passat with hard black plastic lower strips on the body and want ot know if this wax will get into the grain of the plastic and haunt me.
I would appreciate any info from anyone who has used this product thanks.
Very informative topic....Just have a question for everyone here. I bought Meguirar's cleaner/wax product in addition to their polish #2. I know the polish is supposed to be put on the car before applying meguirar's carnauba wax #3. But i wanted to clean and wax the car with one application instead of buying the cleaner, polisher, and wax separately. Therefore, should i apply the cleaner/wax combo first after a wash and then the polish. Thanks for the help
My 98 Nissan 200SX SE-R just turned a year old.... it's black and looks great when clean, which is as often as possible (wash about once per 7-10 days, polish/wax every 3-4 months). I've spent LOTS of time trying to maintain the paint, I've stuck with the Meguiar's 3 step system.. and while the shine is there thanks to the polish, the "waxed" feeling of the paint goes away quickly and I have plenty of swirl marks/light scratches as would be expected with black paint.
I don't htink that much of Armor All products, but I have almost a lifetime supply of Armor Plate (i ahve about 50 little "not for resale" bottles). I've found that it gives the paint a nice feeling to it but does this stuff protect similar to wax? If i use the armor plate after the car is just washed to give it a smooth feeling, will it reduce the amount of time i have to wax/polish or will I just be wasting my time? I don't mind using the armor plate since a) it's free and b) it's a very easy to use spray that takes about 10 minutes for whole car
Have you tried the Meguiar's Quik Detailer? I tried the Meguiar's Cleaner/Wax this past weekend, and am very happy with the shine and the just waxed look and feel. Today I am going out to buy the Quik Detailer.
I've read these posts till I was dizzy looking for one person who has heard of The Wax Shop... I guess not. I'll tell my story of an unheard of product that has everything but a proper ad campaign. My car was vandalized about 10 months after I bought it. I took it to a body shop for some scratches that I couldn't remove and they told me it would be about $300. When I went to pick the car up I couldn't believe it was mine. I asked them if they had painted the entire car because I'd never seen it look that good. They said they use a glaze on the entire car to ensure a good color match. I asked for the name of the product and they gave it to me, it's hard to find, but the larger auto parts stores carry it. It has many +s... 1) easy on easy off, I've actually put it on the entire vehicle, had lunch, then buffed it off. 2) No white powder, this stuff was designed with race cars in mind, they have lots of vinyl stickers. 3) Safe for vinyl, great for leisure vans and other decorated vehicles. 4) Makes the black rubber parts of your car shiny!!! but makes your applicator black... 5) Cleans up a lot of oxidation/contamination including tree sap. I can't say how long it lasts, I'm addicted and I use it about once a month. But I do a full size Dodge Ram and a full size car in one day so that has to say something for easy on easy off!!! Costs about $6 per bottle.
Hi: The Wax Shop does have nice products. I have used the Super Glaze and it is a thin liquid that is easy to apply, even in cold weather, and does not build up. If I recall correctly, it contains about 8% carnauba wax and should be reapplied every 4 to 6 weeks. Frequent users can save by buying in bulk. Try their website at www.waxdepot.com. Good luck.
I have been using Mequiars (#2, #7, #27) for the last 25 years and in trying to be objective I've been looking around for other products to sample. Obviously Zaino is one to try but I also came across a product line advertised in MBCA's Star magazine called Surluster. A little research turned up the fact that Surluster is popular in Japan and have been trying to bust into the US market. See www.surluster.com. I'm sure its not available in stores but would be interested to hear from anyone that has used their products. Thanks in advance.
Been reading several postings from this topic and need a little more info on what to start using. Just bought a new 99 red Rodeo and it seems to have not a bit of wax (no beads). I've used Nufinish previously and found easy to put on and off(liquid wax). Is there something better and just as easy for the new truck or should I buy Nufinish again. I also have a 90 Accord burgundy, with some light scratches on the hood. Wonder if I should try clay as so many people have done. Will it take off the scratches?? I also have been on the Zaino post and am not sure if I can tackle that job, although most people love that product. Appreciate some help.... Thanks
drscopem I went on the waxdepot.com and was quite interested in their products, except if it only last for 8 weeks, I may be better off buying nu-finish which lasts much longer. Are you sure it only lasts 2 months?? Is their products better than Nu-Finish??
By going to www.meguiars.com you can register, provide your automoble details,where you live,etc. and Meguiars will provide you with a personalized vehicle maintenance schedule. They don't bug you later just because they have details about you or your vehicle.
georgede -- The Nu Finish Paste will actually clean and shine, and last longer, than the Nu Finish Liquid. I recommend you try it. In my experience it will outlast all the others by a wide margin.
I have used the Wax Shoppe brand liquid wax off and on for about 6 years. Even though it should be applied monthly, it goes on incredibly smooth with no effort whatsoever. It has a slight mineral spirits smell with a hint of vanilla. It does not leave a bit of residue and does a magnificent job removing tar, bug stains, etc. Applying this wax one a month is a snap and unlike many other waxes that claim to need to "rubbing or buffing", the Wax Shoppe liquid wax does not require any rubbing or buffing. I by mine at the local Autozone.
I intended to say that I "buy" my wax at Autozone. I also use Meguiars cleaner wax liquid and have had good luck using it for my thrice yearly wax job.
Hi, I haven't read all the posts yet but I was wondering if there is any product that you people could suggest that I use to minimize fading on my new cars paint. It sits in the sun quite often. Thanks
I have found this thread to be very informative and helpful. I live in Hawaii where the sun and the salt air are the primary destroyers of new paint jobs. Therefor, a wax or polymer sealant with high UV inhibitors is of primary importance to me. I have used NuFinish for years and have been pleased with the longevity. I have switched to Astro shield which I find gives me even longer protection and finer beading. My reasoning for using a polymer sealant is that wax softens in hot weather, thus attracting dirt and grit, whereas a polyer sealant doesn't. I also use the Astro shield on the hull of our 51 ft. ketch which has a poly acrylic finish. The gloss is terrific and with that amount of work I'm glad it is so easy to apply and remove. Is anyone else using Astro Shield? It's about $7 at the local supermarket.
I use the Meguiars 3 step system on my cars (spring & fall). I wash them once a week and then apply the Quick Detailer after washing. This works out great. The wax seems to last longer and the quick detailer "tells" me when it's time to wax again.
This system works out great and I would recommend it to anyone.
I've used the clay magic, meguiars polish, then meguiars gold class wax routine. I find that the gold class wax is difficult to actually "wax off" (i'm using very clean cotton towels). To me, it kinda smears.
#286 It is as good as it gets and you have seen for yourself. If, for example you do a #26 over the gold class or substitute #26 in place of gold class, it will be more difficult. This of course, brings you to the best reasons and the worse reasons to take it to the next step... ie use a buffer/polisher. I would not recommend it for any number of reasons.
Am unclear as to your response...i clayed truck, then applied "Step 2 McGuiars Polish", wiped off, then applied McGuiars "Gold Class" wax (for clear coats) on top of that.
The wax, IMO, is extremely difficult to "get off". A friend of mine stopped using Gold Class for exactly that reason. Seems to me that you have to buff off (with towel) and off and off and off.
#288 It sounds like you have the drill down. Gold Class is less difficult to get off than Meguairs #26. Other than using the thinest of coats, there is no easy way. You can rub it in till it almost disappears, but that is even more work than you have described. While this is not a Z product forum, it is far far easier to remove.
Did the whole routine last night: washed with Dawn, polished with M. #7, waxed with #26, cleaned the vinyl top with #40. I also did the inside with #40. I was pretty pleased with the polish and wax; I thought they were easy to use, and my car looks nice. The vinyl cleaner, though, was a letdown. My top looked the same before and after, and the interior looked dull. A little of the vinyl cleaner dripped on my wax, and now that spot looks smeared. I can't get it off.
#290 As you know #40 is even advertised as dull. I like the fact that it doesnt have silicon. Frankly the Z product is just a bit shinier but not much.
My car was built three months ago, so the finish is still excellent. I'm not interested in spending an entire day doing a 3 step wax job. What's the best 1 step wax out there (store bought) that will keep my forest green metallic paint looking good for many years (with semi-annual application)?
When your car was built has no bearing on the number of steps. If you want to protect the paint and keep it shiny, you really should wash with Dawn, clay it, wash again, and then apply one of the many fine products available. The clay will REALLY make a difference. I used it on my "1 month out of the factory" Passat and it significantly smoothed the paint and left a much better surface for waxing. Removal of the particles that are embedded within your paint will allow the coating (wax, z, or whatever) to protect the paint rather than put a coat over the particles, further embedding them. Dave
ruski, Wow, those are great pictures. How many coats of Zaino did you use?
Clay: Basically 'clay' is a chemical compound which feel like that old silly putty. Clay like. Soft and maluable. There are several brands on the market: Clay Magic, Erazer, etc.
These 'clays' are rubbed over the surface of the car's finish along with a lubricant to stop the clay from sticking to the paint. The clay acts like a sticky solid and all sorts of particals stick to its surface. It draws off those particals which are really stuck into your clearcoat or paint.
Washing will remove most dirt but not those tiny metal particals which are the product of braking. Brake dust is all over. And along with other hard particals, they stick in your clearcoat in such a fashion as to create little tiny holes in the upper layer of the clearcoast. If left untreated, the metalic dust will oxidize and leave small pit holes in the finish.
Using clay just prior to a good wax or polymer like Zaino will remove these particals and leave your car's finish very smooth. Then the wax or polymer can truly protect.
Disadvantages: Using clay involves some effort. But you don't have to do it frequently (once a year). Its worth it!
what can i use for my brand new galant. I want something fast off the shelves to put on with a great shine. What can i use to shine my rubber mud guards.
Hi: proceed in haste - regret in leisure If you insist on an off-the-shelf product, consider Meguiar's Medallion series or 3M Ultra High Gloss. Either is available at most NAPA stores or try Pep Boys. If you want carnauba only, try the Wax Shop series. Good luck.
Since Meguiars Cleaner Wax provides a better gloss, it would be the better choice to try for removing swirls. There are specific products available for removing swirls, too.
Nu Finish doesn't have much in the way of abrasives, so it wouldn't be as good for removing swirls. What Nu Finish excels at is cleaning and long-term durability. It is fine for new cars.
Both of these waxes are cheap, about $5.00 for a container. Find out what works best for your car by buying both, then wax half your hood with one, the other half with the other wax. Check for gloss and other appearance differences. Watch the amount of beading over time and how well the finish looks. In a few months you will see one outlast the other. That will most likely be the Nu Finish. If the appearance was not that different, then do the whole car in Nu Finish. If you liked the look of the Meguiars and don't mind waxing more often, do the whole car in Meguiars.
Doing this test once will guide you for the remaining ownership life of your car. It is time and money well spent.
Right out of my hand and onto the ground...twice. But that's a later story.
I was noticing lots of rough spots that looked kind of like little water spots in my clear coat. My car's only a 98, but black so it shows everything. I went to NAPA and bought Clay Magic, and it worked great.
I got the red kind; I know, I've read on here that blue is less abrasive, but red worked.
One word of caution: the thing is so incredibly slippery... It says on the box to throw it away if you drop it. Of course, I dropped it before I was even half finished claying my car. I refuse to pay another $30 for another clay, so I just pinched off any part that even looked like dirt had TOUCHED it, and it worked fine again. I thought clay wouldn't do much for a newish car with a clear coat, but it made a huge difference. I'm a believer.
One question: the Napa guys said that plain water would work fine as a lubricant, but I was a little leery so I went ahead and used a solution. Can anybody confirm or dispute that water is enough?
Actually water may be fine. The lubricant has to form a layer between the clay and the clearcoat. Where water sit on the clearcoat, it should be fine. On the side panels, however, forming such a layer may be hard to accomplish. The various solutions will work much better under those conditions. Since I'm a Zaino user, I use a few drops of their car wash liquid in a bottle of water with a spray top. This seems to do the trick for me.
Comments
The improvement was remarkable. The cleaner took off a layer of dirt that remained after washing and left a nice shine by itself. I'm now thinking about trying the Meguiars on my '98 which has a shiny finish though I am not sure if I need to use all three steps.
So on a new shiny car, use Nu Finish. I just did my whole new car in Nu Finish and the shine is awesome, the finish feels very slick and it beads rain into balls that dance above the surface.
On an older car that has lost its gloss, use Meguiars to restore the gloss. When the Meguairs stops beading, you can switch back to Nu Finish if you want the longest time before you wax again. If the car ever gets dull, use Meguiars again.
Any other suggestions besides Nufinish for decent shine & durability?
I also have a "96 green Cherokee with spots from bird droppings on the hood. I've washed & waxed several times, but the blemishes from the droppings remain.
Any suggestions as to what may get rid of them besides polishing compound?
Like any good product, you should prep the surface with a good wash, clay if needed and use a polish to get back shine if your shine isn't good enough to suit you. Other than that, you apply one coat of Collinite and that's it!
More coats might give a bit more longevity, but it's not going to do much for shine and I have never needed more than one coat per "detail".
Sorry to take so long to reply, I don't check in every day.
Don M>
Or even mixing both? I have heard that many times detailers mix products to cut down on one step.
Any info is appreciated.
Or use a gloss-enhancing polish (not wax) before Nu Finish. Or use a cleaner (not polish or wax) before Meguiars.
I wouldn't mix or sequentially apply Nu Finish and Meguiars because the polymer actions could be affected or offset. Its not nice to mess with Mother Nature (your paint). I guess you could run some tests in an inconspicuous area, if there is such an area on a car.
Will the "Best of Show" wax leave white residue on my hard plastic and rubber mouldings? I have a Black Passat with hard black plastic lower strips on the body and want ot know if this wax will get into the grain of the plastic and haunt me.
I would appreciate any info from anyone who has used this product thanks.
Very informative topic....Just have a question for everyone here. I bought Meguirar's cleaner/wax product in addition to their polish #2. I know the polish is supposed to be put on the car before applying meguirar's carnauba wax #3. But i wanted to clean and wax the car with one application instead of buying the cleaner, polisher, and wax separately. Therefore, should i apply the cleaner/wax combo first after a wash and then the polish. Thanks for the help
I don't htink that much of Armor All products, but I have almost a lifetime supply of Armor Plate (i ahve about 50 little "not for resale" bottles). I've found that it gives the paint a nice feeling to it but does this stuff protect similar to wax? If i use the armor plate after the car is just washed to give it a smooth feeling, will it reduce the amount of time i have to wax/polish or will I just be wasting my time? I don't mind using the armor plate since a) it's free and b) it's a very easy to use spray that takes about 10 minutes for whole car
I tried the Meguiar's Cleaner/Wax this past weekend, and am very happy with the shine and the just waxed look and feel. Today I am going out to buy the Quik Detailer.
The Wax Shop does have nice products. I have used the Super Glaze and it is a thin liquid that is easy to apply, even in cold weather, and does not build up. If I recall correctly, it contains about 8% carnauba wax and should be reapplied every 4 to 6 weeks.
Frequent users can save by buying in bulk. Try their website at www.waxdepot.com.
Good luck.
need a little more info on what to start using. Just bought a new 99 red Rodeo and it seems to have not a bit of wax (no beads). I've used Nufinish previously and found easy to put on and off(liquid wax). Is there something better and just as easy for the new truck or should I buy Nufinish again. I also have a 90 Accord burgundy, with some light scratches on the hood. Wonder if
I should try clay as so many people have done. Will it take off the scratches??
I also have been on the Zaino post and am not sure
if I can tackle that job, although most people
love that product. Appreciate some help.... Thanks
I went on the waxdepot.com and was quite interested in their products, except if it only
last for 8 weeks, I may be better off buying
nu-finish which lasts much longer. Are you sure
it only lasts 2 months?? Is their products better
than Nu-Finish??
personalized vehicle maintenance schedule. They don't bug you later just because they have details about you or your vehicle.
Comes in a green bottle or plastic "tin".
Rick
very impressed with the shine. Bug splatters and bird droppings come off very easily.
is it any good or just a bunch of bull?
Thanks
Been an Astroshield user for many years. I made the switch to the z product. That doesnt mean Astro shield is not good. (I still have it)
I use the Meguiars 3 step system on my cars (spring & fall). I wash them once a week and then apply the Quick Detailer after washing. This works out great. The wax seems to last longer and the quick detailer "tells" me when it's time to wax again.
This system works out great and I would recommend it to anyone.
It is as good as it gets and you have seen for yourself. If, for example you do a #26 over the gold class or substitute #26 in place of gold class, it will be more difficult. This of course, brings you to the best reasons and the worse reasons to take it to the next step... ie use a buffer/polisher. I would not recommend it for any number of reasons.
The wax, IMO, is extremely difficult to "get off". A friend of mine stopped using Gold Class for exactly that reason. Seems to me that you have to buff off (with towel) and off and off and off.
Never had tried #26.
Rick
It sounds like you have the drill down. Gold Class is less difficult to get off than Meguairs #26. Other than using the thinest of coats, there is no easy way. You can rub it in till it almost disappears, but that is even more work than you have described. While this is not a Z product forum, it is far far easier to remove.
As you know #40 is even advertised as dull. I like the fact that it doesnt have silicon. Frankly the Z product is just a bit shinier but not much.
Both are good; get the paste wax, NOT the liquid.
Rick
Dave
I can't tell.
ok, ok, sorry - I just could not help myself.
-What is it?
-How does it work?
-What are its advantages/disadvantages?
Thanks in advance!
Wow, those are great pictures. How many coats of Zaino did you use?
Clay: Basically 'clay' is a chemical compound which feel like that old silly putty. Clay like. Soft and maluable. There are several brands on the market: Clay Magic, Erazer, etc.
These 'clays' are rubbed over the surface of the car's finish along with a lubricant to stop the clay from sticking to the paint. The clay acts like a sticky solid and all sorts of particals stick to its surface. It draws off those particals which are really stuck into your clearcoat or paint.
Washing will remove most dirt but not those tiny metal particals which are the product of braking. Brake dust is all over. And along with other hard particals, they stick in your clearcoat in such a fashion as to create little tiny holes in the upper layer of the clearcoast. If left untreated, the metalic dust will oxidize and leave small pit holes in the finish.
Using clay just prior to a good wax or polymer like Zaino will remove these particals and leave your car's finish very smooth. Then the wax or polymer can truly protect.
Disadvantages: Using clay involves some effort. But you don't have to do it frequently (once a year). Its worth it!
I want something fast off the shelves to put on with a great shine. What can i use to shine my rubber mud guards.
New Galant? Great choice of car!
whats the better one for my 99 blk galant, how can i get rid of swirls. i heard that Nu Finish is for older cars.
proceed in haste - regret in leisure
If you insist on an off-the-shelf product, consider Meguiar's Medallion series or 3M Ultra High Gloss. Either is available at most NAPA stores or try Pep Boys. If you want carnauba only, try the Wax Shop series.
Good luck.
Nu Finish doesn't have much in the way of abrasives, so it wouldn't be as good for removing swirls. What Nu Finish excels at is cleaning and long-term durability. It is fine for new cars.
Both of these waxes are cheap, about $5.00 for a container. Find out what works best for your car by buying both, then wax half your hood with one, the other half with the other wax. Check for gloss and other appearance differences. Watch the amount of beading over time and how well the finish looks. In a few months you will see one outlast the other. That will most likely be the Nu Finish. If the appearance was not that different, then do the whole car in Nu Finish. If you liked the look of the Meguiars and don't mind waxing more often, do the whole car in Meguiars.
Doing this test once will guide you for the remaining ownership life of your car. It is time and money well spent.
I was noticing lots of rough spots that looked kind of like little water spots in my clear coat. My car's only a 98, but black so it shows everything. I went to NAPA and bought Clay Magic, and it worked great.
I got the red kind; I know, I've read on here that blue is less abrasive, but red worked.
One word of caution: the thing is so incredibly slippery... It says on the box to throw it away if you drop it. Of course, I dropped it before I was even half finished claying my car. I refuse to pay another $30 for another clay, so I just pinched off any part that even looked like dirt had TOUCHED it, and it worked fine again. I thought clay wouldn't do much for a newish car with a clear coat, but it made a huge difference. I'm a believer.
One question: the Napa guys said that plain water would work fine as a lubricant, but I was a little leery so I went ahead and used a solution. Can anybody confirm or dispute that water is enough?