Store Bought Car Waxes (No Zaino Posts, Please)

drscopem

Hi:
Suggestions on clay use are in topic #371. The greater the slickness of your lubricant, the less the chance of transfer of clay material to your car.
Dropping the bar is only one reason to just break a piece off and leave the remainder safely in storage.
If clay won't remove it and it is not something you can feel then it is probably a stain in the clearcoat. My favorite polish is 3M Imperial Hand Glaze available from your NAPA store or an auto paint store.
One step products are faster than using individual products but the end result is not as nice. You decide what level of finish you want.
Good luck.

baine4812

I live in the San Francisco Bay area and have never seen clay at a store, like Kragen's or Grand auto. Anyone know of anyother stores that sell it. We don't have a pep boys here either.

pblevine

You can try over the 'net. For example, I think that the Erazer site is: www.erazer.com.

drscopem

Hi:
Locally, check with an automobile paint store or a NAPA store. I buy mine from Griot's Garage at www.griotsgarage.com.

chlobo

Ok, several people have mentioned that they like Meguiar's Medallion Wax. Trouble is, I can't seem to find a product with that name. Are people mislabeling it? Also, I'm try to find a store in Massachusetts or a mail order place that will have *ALL* of the following items to minimize shipping/driving:

The Absorber or Hydrawipe
Clay Magic (or other highly recommended clay)
Good paste wax

hagar

i have tried nufinish and over the years it leads to paint thinning i think, the best i have found is 3m imperial hand glaze, which makes the car glow, i also found
http://autosupermart.com/bbs/

to be a good source for info but small water spots on the paint clear coat which formed after washing the car using meguiars #62 and since then they dont come off? what takes this off?? i tried a polish and a cleaner, nothing works, do i need to use p21s auto wash? has anyone gotten rid of these things easily. also my new car has some sticky stuff on the paint all over, makes the surface feel rough not smooth , what is this stuff and how do i take it off. ??
another think i saw was zymol wax but it costs $30 to $1200 is this crazy stuff or what? i saw it as http://autosupermart.com
but has anyone "normal" tried this stuff?
thanks again

drscopem

Hi:
#311 - where to get it
Try a NAPA store. They will have both the Medallion wax (no it's not mislabeled) and other products. Try www.carcareonline.com. They have the p21S absorber, the Medallion (and other waxes), etc. If your total purchase is greater than $50.00 then shipping is free.
#312 - water spots
3M Imperial Hand Glaze is a great polish but it contains no wax so it gives no protection whatsoever. If the 3M won't get the water spots off then they have stained/etched the surface. You will have to use a stronger (more abrasive) polish or glaze or you will have to live with it.
As for Zymol, I prefer Blitz wax from www.carcareonline.com, www.autosupermart.com, or www.onegrand.com. It is easier to apply, gives a good shine, and lasts a long time.
Good luck.

baine4812

Should i clay a new car or is that unnecessary?

drscopem

Hi:
I would clay a new car. During transit from the factory, a new car can pick up a lot of surface contamination that is best removed by clay.
Good luck.

coachwats

Has anybody used these products? Pros/Cons. I used Nu-finish and it last the longest of any I tried. Meguair cleaner/wax give a great shine but does not last more that 2-3 weeks. Any recommendations in a polmer(want something long lasting) with above average shine. I also live in a hot climate so would like one with UV protection. I would appreciate any feedback.

coachwats

Is there anything I should use or not use in a car soap. Are they all safe (i.e. armoral etc.- 1 pt (16 washes for $2). I know NOT to use dish washing soap. Any comments welcome.

drscopem

Hi:
With all of the questions about waxes and polymer sealers I thought now would be a good time to ask:
How do you judge a wax?
I use the following criteria, going from most important to least important:
1. GLOSS APPEAL
How does the car look when you are finished. At most concours events they grade the CLARITY, COLOR, and DEPTH. CLARITY is the clearness of the finish. Is it oxidized, cloudy, and hazy, or is it crystal clear? COLOR refers to the richness of the color. Is it deep, full, and lush or is it faded and weak? DEPTH refers to the 3D effect. Is it like looking into the bottom of a deep pool or is it shallow?
2. DURABILITY
The car can look great but if you have to redo it every week then what's the point? There are two kinds of durability. How long does the car look great and how long will the car bead water? It may look good for a week but bead for 6 months.
3. EASE OF USE
Is it easy to put on and take off? Do you have to use a lot of effort to remove it and buff it?
4. MISC
This is the catchall category for the odds and ends. Does the product attract dust making it difficult to keep clean. Does it discolor the trim, chrome, etc? Depending on the item, this can become the #1 consideration.
5. COST
Most people consider this first and that's a mistake. I can buy a wax for $2.00 but if I have to use it every other week to keep the shine and it takes a long time to apply and is hard to wipe off then what have I really saved? Always count your labor into the cost. Something that lasts and is easy to use will be less costly in the long run.
Those are my criteria every time I use a new wax. You should always use something similar. The wax may cost $20.00 but if it lasts for six months, looks great, and is easy to use then you have saved money.
Good luck.

bt1

Where can I find, Blitz wax. Where do they sell this product.

drscopem

Hi:
You can get Blitz at www.carcareonline.com, www.autosupermart.com, or www.onegrand.com.

joathlete

Hello,
I just got meguirs wax liquid and the mist and wipe spray for after it rains. Are these 2 good products for my 99 Galant es or should I try something else. I want a ggreat shine for as long as mpossible.
comments---

baine4812

I want to know it there is anything I can use to protect the plastic mirror housings on my car. I have an intrigue and the mirrors are plastic and black. Also the car has some metal parts that are black. Is there anyway to help keep these parts from fading?

parrot_head

Noticed a lot of recent posts asking "What should I do/buy/etc" I spent the last week reading the entire topic #8 (1002 posts) and then all of this one. Have learned a great deal of information. Just ordered a 2000 F350 Crew Cab 4x4. Want to take good care of it to last me over the years. After reading all of these posts, I know I will not let the dealer initially wash/wax it during prep (to avoid swirls, scratches, mistakes... I figure I spent all the money, I want to be the first to mess it up Will wash it, clay it, polish it, wax it. Then simple maintenance of washing/waxing as needed. Decided to go with Meguiar's professional series polish and Collinite for the wax. Not the cheapest solution I realize but not the most expensive by any stretch. Found some good car care tips at http://www.autofanatics.com
They also sell many of the products mentioned in these threads (not just one brand). I had several questions and recieved very prompt replies, so I'm impressed. Anyhow, thanks for all of the input and interesting reading Now if my darn truck would just get built already so I can terrorize the beltway

gus

parrot head, I'm amazed that you decided to slog through all of that. Glad to know that topic 8 has provided some good info! Given that the topic is such a Zaino luvfest, I'm also amazed that you went with something other than Zaino. Would you mind sharing your rationale with us?

Gus
Conference Host

drscopem

Hi:
-#323 new car care info
I clicked on autofanatics above. Their tip of the week was to use a car duster which they were selling. For information, check out Larry Reynold's site at www.carcareonline.com. He has lots of how to articles. He also sells many more products. Shipping is free for orders over $50.00.
I also like www.autosupermart.com but Larry is often cheaper on the same item. You may also wish to check www.autopia-carcare.com.
As for waxes, the only contributor I know who uses Collinite is Shoman. I have read about it but not used it since it says you must let it haze but not dry. I don't like timing a wax. This is why I don't like p21S wax or Zymol(the good stuff - not the blue liquid). Of the waxes I have tried, I prefer Blitz wax.
Good luck.

parrot_head

Gus - heh, at times I am hard headed/very dilligent, so going through all of that wasn't that bad As far as why Collinite over other waxes or over Z or other multi-step solutions, several reasons: The first and foremost is laziness? Ordered a 2000 F350SD Crew Cab, Long Bed. That is a whole lot of real estate (21+ feet long/6+ feet wide). Just the perception of having to touch every inch more than once, regardless of ease, doesn't appeal to me. 'Wipe on Wipe off, Drive On'... Also, someone did a relatively objective comparison of Col & Z, posted pics/results on a web site. Ok, I was impressed. I did a lot of research on the net, called several retailers/body shops/detailers/etc. Since vehicle will be outside 24/7 (won't fit in garage), wanted something that would hold up. More than one reference stated the Collinite was 'bulletproof' ie protected/withheld well. Mind you these weren't individuals/businesses that sold only Collinite, sold/used/tested a variety.

If I had a small sports car, may have gone another route. Want the best protection/appearance, so going to give this a shot and see how long it lasts. If I can go 4 months with good beading/looks, I will be content.

#325 thanks for additional references. Bookmarked them . I provided info on http://www.autofanatics.com as hadn't heard them mentioned before and my dealings with them so far have produced positive results. Always good to have more info/resources Will let ya'll know about the hazing vs drying issue. Plan on doing a panel at a time so hopefully won't be an issue. If it is, back to the drawing board

gus

Thanks, parrot-head!! A lot of the people here seem to be of the "if everyone is talking about it, it must work," frame of mind, and it's actually interesting to see someone do research, call around, etc. before making a decision. Interesting but not surprising, I guess, is the corollation between size of vehicle and what sort of wax you chose. Good luck!

Gus
Conference Host

chlobo

Just tried this wax on my new car and I have to say that I found it difficult to use. It was very hard to take off. I've used their cleaner wax and haven't had any problems. Does anyone have any suggestions?

Also, I used their professional series clay and found that some of it rubbed off onto the clearcoat of the car. Why does this happen? Was I doing something wrong?

Gischpel

My two cents...

Usually if wax is hard to take off, it hasn't dried properly and/or was put on too thick. Temperature and humudity affect drying time, so that may contribute to the problem. You are only leaving a micro-thin layer of wax on the finish when you are done, so the old "more is better" rule does not apply. More thin coats is where you get the addiitional protection.

The clay probably needed more lubricant applied to keep it from rubbing off on the finish. I have encountered the same problem at times.

Terry

dranoel

I've been using a mail order product called Malms on my 1985 Porsche 911 for the past 6 years. The former owner used it and the car looked great, so I continued. Has anyone else had experience with this product?

parrot_head

Had decided on wax/polish/etc to use on my new truck. Went to dealer to order some add ons (nerf bars, liner, etc) when they brought up paint protection. Recommended Carecraft Finish Preserver (which is a sealant, Dupont-Teflon additive) and Environmental paint protection (acid rain tree sap, etc protection). If I went this route, told not to wax vehicle... What are pros/cons? Have read a little about this in past but nothing that would lead me to believe this is either garbage or best stuff since sliced bread.

Also, not exactly wax related, but getting confilicting guidance on leather maintenance, some say use conditioner, some stuff (like my couch) says use NOTHING but soap/water... Not sure what answer is for leather seats in new truck. What gives?

Thanks

drscopem

Hi:
I have no personal knowledge of this particular product but as a general rule dealer applied sealants are vastly overpriced (usually several hundred dollars) and don't last as long as other products mentioned in these forums. Teflon in a polish does not bond to the surface so it does not have any positive effect on your finish. It is marketing hype.
As for the leather, most here like Lexol or Zaino. You can also check out Leather Therapy at www.leathertherapy.com. Most people use a leather product because of the temperature extremes the seats are subjected to (greater than 120 degrees in a closed car in the summer) that your sofa does not face.
Good luck.

doickle

Went to Wal Mart today to buy a can of Nu Finish, they didn't have any. I pickup up a can of something else then spotted a can of Rain-X polish and was going to buy that. A fellow came by and pointed out a bottle of Zymol cleaner wax and said that was the best you can get. When I got home my son went out to the storage shed and came in with a bottle of Eagle One wetlook car polish and said "use this". I have a bottle of Eagle One wet look spray. I wonder what would happen if I got a gallon bucket and put all the polishes and waxes into the bucket and mixed well, then tried on the truck.
Dumb question, is Zymol and Zaino one in the same?
I don't want to use anything thats going to take a lot of time and work. I have alway liked Nu Finish but will try that Zymol just to see how it works out.

drscopem

Hi:
#333 - which wax to choose
Zaino and Zymol are different products.
The blue liquid Zymol you purchased is made by Turtle Wax. The true Zymol is a paste that you take a piece of, soften in your hand, apply, then immediately buff off (yeah - it is a lot of work).
If choosing between the Eagle One Wet (a polymer product) and the Turtle Wax version of Zymol, I would choose the Eagle One (your son was right on this one).
Good luck.

vivona

doickle - I'd go back out and find the Nu Finish paste. It will outlast just about anything else, is easy to use and gives a decent shine.

musclecarman

Does anyone know of some waxes that do not leave a white residue on black plastic and rubber trim? NuFinish? Also, what removes the white stains on the trim?

Thanks

vivona

Many waxes leave white residue on trim. In fact, that is the only real down side to Nu Finish. There are waxes that don't stain trim, but they don't last very long, so it is probably easier to just be careful to not get wax on the trim in the first place rather than have to rewax the car several times for the same time period.

I have heard that you can remove white stains from trim by heating regular peanut butter in a microwave to make it liquid, then using a toothbrush to work the peanut butter into the trim to dissolve and remove the residue. Then use carwash to wash off the peanut butter. Sounds like a joke, but I have read this in several car care manuals.

I am just careful when I wax.

wilcox

Baking soda is a good cleaner...maybe it will remove the white stains.

drscopem

Hi:
Remember that trim is plastic and that plastic is derived from oil. Solvents that carry wax will also affect plastic trim. There are many different approaches to solve the problem.
Refer to topic #371 posts #54, #56, #60 for more information.
Good luck.

newwestd

The white is dried wax that has gotten into the pores of the rubber or plastic. You can sometimes remove it with a small, stiff brush, like a toothbrush or trim brush sold for detailing. Also, you can sort of cover or dissolve the white with rubber/trim dressing such as "No-Touch" Tire Spray, etc. It is also good to use the rubber/tire dressing on your window trim, door rubber and plastic to keep it from drying out. Spray it on a small rag and rub it in with your finger.

its9000

Interesting that in all the posts, no one mentions using a motorized applicator (i.e. an orbital waxer). Are these a NO-NO in waxing?

I was planning on getting one to save time and fatigue.

tomciviletti

I used Zymol liquid cleaner/wax on my new red Protege.

PLUS: no hydrocarbon solvents
smells good
great, lasting shine
no visible residue on trim

MINUS: expensive
not a good cleaner

tomciviletti

Powertools can be great. But if you're not careful, you can burn through a clearcoat quite easily [especially if you're using a cleaner/polisher-wax combination.]

drscopem

Hi:
- power tools
There is nothing wrong with using power tools - the question is: do you need them?
There are 2 types of polishers/buffers - the rotary and the random orbital.
The rotary buffer is the type many pros use. It is not unlike a drill in that the pads spin in a circle. This creates great torque and heat which allows for the correction of paint defects. If you don't know how to handle it you can take your paint off before you can turn the machine off.
The random orbital buffer moves in two directions at once. It generates much less torque and heat so the risk of damage is reduced. It can still remove paint at the edges where it is the thinnest like trunk lids, etc.
Equally important is the pad you use. For orange peel you might use a wool pad which could be too abrasive for just polishing. Probably the safest pad is the foam polishing pad. It can be used for polishing, waxing, and buffing.
Once your car is polished you may not need a buffer again because there are many products that don't benefit from its use. For example, after the finish is shining the way you want you will seal it with either carnauba wax or polymers. If you use Blitz wax you don't need a buffer. The same is true with polymers like Finish First or Zaino where hand application and removal is actually faster. Once done, simply maintain it.
You can use 3M Imperial Hand Glaze among others to polish your finish. Please check earlier posts.
-Liquid Zymol
Liquid Zymol is made by Turtle Wax and is not the same Zymol sold in jars. It is priced to sell in places like K-Mart because they know people at Wal-Mart and K-Mart won't spring $40.00 for their other waxes. The Liquid Zymol is average compared to what's out there both in shine and in durability. Again, I prefer to use separate cleaners and waxes because you don't need to clean your finish every time you wax it.
Good luck.

cwilkes

I read somewhere on this board about using peanut
butter to remove white wax residue on body side
moldings/window moldings? I tried this yesterday on
a 2000 Xterra and it worked great. I then tried it
on my wifes 93 Sentra and it took years of residue
off without a problem.
Method:I put a little peanut butter on a
toothbrush and sprayed the area with water and just
rubbed the peanut butter in then rinsed? What a
difference on the sentra?

pblevine

Was that 'chunky' style or smooth? And will it go further if combined with jelly? Only kidding, don't go nuts. 'May try it myself.

codak

Can anyone recommend a glass cleaner that doesn't streak or smear?

Sporin

Almost any glass cleaner will smear some. I have had the best luck with alchohol based cleaners(ClearVue, Eagle One 20/20) over amonia based cleaners (Windex, etc).

I now use a crumpled up b&w newspaper and have been able to get a nearly streak-free surface. Paper towels are more streaky and leave more lint then newsprint too.

ruking1

#347
Actually vinegar in plain tap water works well. I use the plain water and rub a bit harder for hidden scum, but when I need the big guns at low cost...vinegar and water is about as good as it gets.

ruking1

#346
Clean your plastic?..., then feed your dog I always say!!

maxim5

I've just noticed some tiny fine marks near the sunroof of my one week old black TL. They are not really visible at normal light, but I can see them under artificial light at the parking lot when looking carefully under specific angle. I can not feel them by fingers. I checked around the other looking new black cars. All of them had similar marks. At some cars these marks were pretty dense and their shape reminded effect of rotating brushes (probably result of automatic autowash). Also, after reading many posts here I see that this is kind of usual problem with black cars (I've never had a black car before).

So, I tried to use Meguiar's Gold Class Clear Prep & Swirl Reducer but it did absolutely nothing! My guess is that because the car has been just waxed at the dealership. Is is possible?

(1) What should I use to remove wax before cleaning?

(2) What king of cleaner or so better use to remove these fine marks? I read a good responses about Zymol's HD-Cleanse. Can I use it for that following by applying Meguiar's Gold Class car wax (I used to use it with my other car)? Or what kind of Meguiar's (or other) products can I use for that?

Thanks a lot.

div2

HD-Cleanse or 3M Imperial Hand Glaze should both work; follow up with your preferred wax. Gold Class should be OK.

pblevine

Yes, by all means feed your dog. But remember that plastic (especially new plastic) ages by giving off spare gas-state molecules. These particals then adhere to near by surfaces such as your glass windows. And the film they leave is very hard to remove. So, periodic cleaning of interior windows should also include giving those plastic parts the once-over too.

ruking1

#353
Plastic and rubber and other than normal paint on metal finishes wear out/fade app 3x as fast as say the metal body finish.
So an ideal schdule would be if you wax etc each 6 mo, doing the other stuff on 2 mo cycle will even out the wear patterns.

art16

What shoould I use to clean the lower trim around my car. It's metal painted black and cannot be waxed. When I picked the car up from the dealer it was shinning. How do I get this look back

pblevine

You can try a little Fantastic followed by a normal car wash. But if the paint has faded, not much can be done about it. Why can't it be waxed? As a last resort, you can protect the trim with a polymer based finish such as Finish First or Zaino.