That's terrible! Can you imagine some guy who bought this old beat up thing (like a '50 Chevy) just to go to the station in the morning. 'Doesn't want to get it stolen, etc. Every day, he wakes up and sees his hunk of junk, and smiles. AND NOW..., he comes home one evening to his station and sees what you have done! Cruel.
Can you imagine the look on someone's face when they came back to their beatup, old raggedy car to find it all clayed and shined at the end of the day?
pblevine--what are you doing to keep your Accord shiny in the winter months?
Actually, I'll probably just spray water (ie: garden hose) on it to remove road salts and assorted winter dirt. I've got 3 coats of Z2 it now and that should hold for a few months. Ok folks, I used the "Z" word, but I was asked. And besides, in this context, it could be multiple coats of your favorite wax. The idea is to build up enough protection to get you past the really bad part of winter. When the outside temperature goes above 40 (and if I have some spare time), I'll try to give it a real wash. That's about all. Do you have any other ideas?
What do people recommend for a brand-new car that doesn't need claying or polishing? After reading advice in this group, I bought a can of NuFinish Paste and put a first coat on my 2000 Maxima. Then someone in the Maxima 2000 (5) forum warned me that regular wax would be better for the finish.
The reason I decided on NuFinish is that, in my experience (and many others, apparently), it outlasts virtually all other store-bought waxes. It continued to keep my old Maxima smooth and shiny for about almost a year. True, Maguire's was also highly rated, so I am also planning to try their product on top of the NuFinish to see if it improves the gloss. (Any reason I shouldn't do that?) NuFinish does bead less than regular wax, but someone once told me that beading is not necessarily a good thing - like when the big droplets of water freeze on the car.
Could NuFinish (or other polymer coatings like Z?) actually be harmful to brand-new finishes? Does anyone have any experience to support this? I understood that as long as it has some protective layer (of wax or polymer), the paint will be shielded; and moreover, that the less you polish or wax (i.e, rub) your car, the longer the original paint finish will last. If so, NuFinish should be among the best since you apply it only rarely, once or twice a year.
In my opinion,all we are doing anyway is polishing or sealing the clearcoat. So if nufinish isn`t taking away from the shine or damaging the clearcoat then no harm done.I`ve tried it before and had no problems with it but I prefer the conventional car waxes over nufinish
I did a four wax test (each on one fourth of the hood) of Nu Finish Paste, Meguiars Cleaner Wax Liquid, Turtle Was Emerald Paste and the wax that comes with Clay Magic. The Emerald and Clay Magic waxes lasted about one week. The Meguairs lasted about two months. The Nu Finish looked so great and kept shining and beading, so I waxed the whole car in it and at six months it is fine.
I have used Nu Finish all previous cars with no adverse problems. My last car only received Nu Finish waxings from the day it was new until I traded it at 12 years and the paint still shined like new.
I go along with the theory that a low abrasion wax that lasts the longest is the best choice, and in my experience, that is Nu Finish.
If the test is durability and shine then I have got to vote for Collinite. It is a top shelf blend of carnauba and it is bullet proof. I have had spectacular results and it has cut down on my wash time. I am using it on both a non-clear coat and a clear coat finish.
Didn't know much about it until I followed a post here to AutoFanatics http://www.autofanatics.com. Spoke to Jim there and he answered every question I could ask. They have it there.
I owned a 91 Legend for 6 years and a 96 Millenia S for 4 years never wax car but wash weekly or bi-monthly. When I sold both of these cars the paint on them was still in super condition. I think with the newer clear coat paint job on modern cars, little or no wax is needed. As long as you wash your car on regular basis. I recently purchased a new 99 Lexus and I am not planning on waxing it. I wonder if anyone has similar experience.
A clean car with no wax always looks good as long as there is nothing that is clean AND waxed parked next to it. I use the product we're not supposed to mention here, but it was the same with other waxes...they just seem to provide a deeper, richer shine. Also, a good coat of wax also helps make the vehicle easier to clean things such as bugs or bird droppings, and provides one more bit of protection against things like road salt that may get sprayed up on the car during the winter months. Just my 2 cents.
My brother-in-law also has a '91 Legend which is a great car. In fact, it is and (unfortunately) was the best thing ever produced by the Honda Corporation. He has over 280,000 miles on it and uses it as his daily commuter. AND he NEVER washed or waxed it. He's proud of that fact. He'll tell you that you are wasting your time waxing or caring for a car. He lovingly points to his finish and will tell you: "See, its still there and looks good".
It looks like crap. I'm not pushing Z or any wax here, just simple car care. The Legend had an extra coat of paint and a really thick clear coat. They don't make 'em like that anymore. So the finish does last much longer than other cars. If my brother-in-law had washed and waxed it, it would look good. He only remembers when it did. I put my car next to his and he just walked away.
On ANY car, not protecting the clear coat with wax WILL speed up pits and oxidation. Period. And the '91 Legend, although better than others, is STILL subject to the same laws of chemistry and physics.
I am a detailing products retailer and have owned and shown national champion show cars for many years. I got into the selling of products because I had to spend so much time researching the best ways to win shows! I don't post here often, but followed the recent clay comments and would like to add these:
1. Used properly, clay won't scratch a finish, the key is to use the supplied liquid lubricant spray so that the clay glides on the surface. If the clay sticks or drags, you need to use more spray. Do small areas at a time. 2. Clay usually does nothing to add to or detract from shine. It's purpose is to pull out/off contaminants from the surface and make the finish smoother to the touch. If you remove a bad case of overspray, of course the finish will look better, but quite often, you can't see the difference, only feel it. 3. Clay will make your car easier to polish/wax since it's smoother. 4. Clay is great to use on the windshield. Glass gets stuff in it just like paint and using the clay will help your wiper blades last longer and work better. 5. Not every surface will benefit from clay. Some cars have avoided "rail dust" and other contaminants. The test is to wash and dry your car and rub your bare hand over the surface lightly. If it feels even a little bit like sandpaper and not super smooth, chances are a clay treatment will help greatly. If it feels perfectly smooth, a clay treatment won't help. It is still a good idea to clay any car on a regular schedule (once or twice a year for most street cars)to get out minor problems that could turn into big ones if you don't pay attention. 6. Any car driven enough on the street, will eventually need or benefit from a clay treatment. 7. Even high speed buffing with compound won't get out the same type of paint problems that clay does. on the other hand, clay can't do the same job that buffing or polishing does. (I recommend power buffing as a last resort, and only when done by a pro.) 8. Properly used, clay, at least Erazer, won't leave a residue, and you really don't need to re-wash before polishing or waxing. It's just an extra step that will tire you out, in my opinion and experience.
I started using clay, and then decided to sell it after watching brand new Corvettes getting the treatment at a friends dealership. When he told me why they used it, and I tried it for myself, I was convinced. I sell Erazer, and the owner of the company is great to work with, and posts here from time to time to try to dispell false rumors.
If you have never waxed your car and it still looks OK, then you are REALLY LUCKY that you have not gotten any material that stains on it. The problem is that the degradation has been so slow that you don't realize how it has deteriorated. I detailed a friend's car as a favor. It is a '97 Acccord that still looked pretty good and had been well cared for. Thye did not know why I was doing it. I clayed, glazed, waxed and sprayed with a gloss enhancer. When I dropped the car off they truly didn't recognize it - there was that much improvement.
I also had a Millenia - they have fantastic paint. But my car was so shiny that it always drew comments, and when I sold it, I got $2500 OVER the residual value of the lease- enough for the down payment on my next car.
If you don't want to take car of your cars yourself, there are plenty of good detailers, even some that will come to your house and do it there. Think of it as an investment. Try it once, you won't believe it!
As an amature (sp?) I have to recommend trying clay. When I first read about it on the old Z topic I thought these guys were nuts. I finally used it and got amazing results. A friend used it on an older car and was flabbergasted by the improvement. Shoman is right about it being easier to wax a car afterward. Couple of times a year is all it takes. You won't be sorry. (I use Clay Majic because it is sold down the steet at Pep Boys.)
You say that you have never waxed your car......I think that is a BIG mistake. Others in here have said the same thing as I am going to but I think it is very important. You may think your car looks good, but if you waxed it you would probably be surprised as to how good in can really look.
It is a big misnomer(sp) that clearcoats don't need waxing. They do. Your paint will not last as long without wax as with it. Thats a fact. If you ask any professional detailer they will tell you that it is vital to wax a car. Whether clearcoat or not.
Please do your Lexus a favor and wash and wax it. It is crying for wax!!!!!If you don't believe any of us, just ask your dealer if wax is needed. They will say to wax it at least twice a year. I know, because my Dad has a Lexus.
OK, when the weather warms a bit I will try to locate a detail place for a wax job. I swear my previous two cars still have excellent paint finish when I sold them. Sure, they may not be as shinny as a Just waxed car, but the just waxed look probably last no more than a week or rain which ever come first. Please don't give me wrong, I do like a nice clean car, that is why I wash car often.
If you like your cars to look nice, you will really like the looks of a waxed car. Another good thing about waxing is: it makes washing the car much easier. The dirt comes off faster and it takes a lot less work to keep your car clean.
I also think a clean waxed car drives better. But, I don't think there are any studies to back me up on that :-)
If you think that modern waxes only last a week or 2 - then 1. You have't tried any wax made in the last 20 years, or 2. you think that "hot wax" at the car wash is a wax job.
Seriously, almost any good wax from a major maker such as Meguiar's or 3M or many others should last several months with proper prep and application. Also - the quality of the look and the protection is proportional to the effort to apply them - i.e. paste waxes seem to work better and last longer.
Anyway, you seem to be swayed - let's not stop the momentum - get over to that detailer ASAP, and please don't choose the cheapest one! Make sure you find one that will clay the car first, and you won't believe how smooth it will be. Since you like nice cars, you will realize that the value of your car just went up about $2K when you get it back.
You are absolutely correct - a clean car runs better. This is a known fact among car afficionados, and I myself have realized this after nearly 40 years of maintaining cars.
No, it is not a spiritual thing with the car - at least I don't think so! The fact is that people will subconsciously neglect the maintenance of a dirty car - repairs, oil changes, tires, alignment, WAXING, etc. When the car looks great, it is natural to want it to run great and you will naturally take better care of it mechanically.
So, you not only end up with a great looking car, but one that runs great, give the best fuel economy and will not quit on you in the undesirable part of town at night because of needed maintenance. Everyone wins!
Waxing should be a priority; however, it really depends on the demographics of the end user and how important maintaining their vehicle is to them.
The paint finish of today’s vehicles is subjected to more forms of paint contamination than the paint finishes of yesterday. Today, contaminants like rail dust, brake dust, and industrial fallout are a common problem all across the country. (click here: http://www.erazer.com/contamin.htm to learn more about these contaminants click here: http://www.erazer.com/preventi.htm to see prevention & removal methods) These contaminants cannot be removed with regular washing, (even if the vehicle is washed once a week).
Today, many GM, Ford, Chrysler & Toyota dealerships use “clay” to clean a finish prior-to a customer taking delivery of the vehicle. On the other hand, the majority waits until the customer makes a complaint until they clean the paint finish. Those that do not use “clay” to treat the finish, use acids and/or wet-sanding & buffing which can be detrimental to the paint finish, the end user, and the environment. Believe it or not, there are many dealerships, and professional detailers that are not familiar with “clay”. I know it sounds silly, but it is a fact! “Clay” as it is called, is one of the biggest and most recent advancements in “paint cleaning technology” and the market is still learning about the incredible benefits.
My point is these contaminants that are now infecting the paint finish of today’s vehicles, were not a big problem in the past. Today, they are a reoccurring problem today that needs proper maintenance. The longer that these contaminants are left untreated, the more damage that they create and washing & waxing alone is not enough to remove and protect the finish from these contaminants.
ALL VEHICLES ARE SUBJECTED TO THIS CONTAMINATION, THERE IS NO VEHICLE THAT CAN ESCAPE SOME FORM OF RAIL DUST, BRAKE DUST, & INDUSTRIAL FALLOUT CONTAMINATION.
“Claying” the paint finish often, ensures that the finish is truly clean. Although waxing, polishing and/or applying a paint sealant will not protect the finish from rail dust, brake dust & industrial fallout, it does have more advantages than just enhancing the appearance. The paint finish of a vehicle is porous. When applied properly most waxes, polishes and/or paint sealant will help to protect against chipping, fading, and/or oxidation.
As mentioned, many dealers clean the finish before the consumer takes delivery. Although the manufacturer gives the dealer a generous allowance to “properly clean the paint finish”, most just do a “quick clean” to get the dirt off.
As an avid automotive enthusiast myself, I know that we all stroll through the dealers from time to time checking out the new models and/or inventory. The next time your out and about, stroll through the lot and check out some of the vehicles that have just been delivered or ones that have been sitting on the lot a while. You will be shocked that the status of the paint finish before the dealer “preps” them. Specifically, first look at the white colored vehicles so you can get an idea of what the contaminants look like, then take your hand with your palm flat and run it over the paint finish so you get an idea of the texture. Next time you look at and/or touch a contaminated vehicle, whether light or dark color, you will know.
Oh, and if you want to know something about the chemicals and/or procedures that the dealer uses to clean the finish. Don’t ask any of the salesman, managers and/or parts managers, ask the porter or detailer who is actually using the products and performing the cleaning (some dealers have in-house employees, others send the vehicles out, in the event that the dealer sends a vehicle out, just ask where they send it). Usually, the detailers are pretty friendly and will respect you for inquiring about their duties.
In advance, sorry for the long-winded post, just trying to help and offer additional insight.
I may have to prepare for an onslaught of "do it yourself" type posts, but what do detailers typically charge to properly clean and wax a car (never had a car worth detailing before)???
Sorry to sound like a "do it yourself" kind of post, but one afternoon is all it takes to have your car looking better than a detailer. Spend the afternoon detailing it yourself, then, take the money you saved and treat the wife/girlfriend to one heck of a nice night on the town!
How often do you recommend that a person clay a car? I'll assume that different conditions warrent different treatment, but overall, what do you recommend?
I think it is a scientific fact that a clean car not only runs better, it accelerates and corners better too, gas mileage goes up, even the sky is a little blue-er (but that could be the clean windshield.)
I got an appointment this weekend for an exterior detail ($100). They said I can bring my own polish and wax otherwise they use Turtle wax. Does this sound OK? or should I go to auto parts store and get my own wax? Will it make much different?
Just make sure that it is professional detailer that will "clay" the car first. If they say "what?" or don't use clay, they are amateur and don't deserve to get their hands on your nice car. The actual brand of wax is not so important as how they will use it, but most professional detailers will probably use 3M products rather than Turtle Wax. Paste or liquid? It should at least be paste wax.
lannyc, the deal is just that you have nice cars, so take them to someone that knows what they are doing. I have found that the better shops use clay, the schlocky shops do not.
I hope you will let us know your feelings when you get the car back!
PJ--couldn't agree with you more about detailing the car yourself. Over many years of trying all the detailers in my area and spending as much as $250 for a "professional" detail, none of them did as good a job as I could. I doubt it was a point of "they were so bad and I am so good". It's more a case of pride in the job I would do because I'm the owner of the car. The detailer is not.
That said, lannyc (no knock on you for not waxing your car or going to a detailer), if you want a detailer to do your car, to do it right it's going to cost more than $100. A good clay job is required since I'll assume that your car has been on the road for a while with no wax. It's a foregone conclusion that all kind of "nasties" have parked themselves in your paint. After the claying, the polish/wax routine will be at least a two step process (I'd recommend 3 steps).
First, the paint needs to have a cleaner put on it after the claying. Second, it will need to be polished. Third, a good wax job. If you find a detailer willing to do all three (or at least two...polishing and waxing) of the steps, they will probably charge more than $100. Turtle Wax would be way down on my list on what to use.
Go to an AutoZone or PEP Boys. Buy the Meguiars 3 step process (can't recall the name...ask a clerk) and have the detailer use that according to the directions laid out by Meguiars.
You are correct that different situations warrant different cleansing of the paint. However, on average since "clay" is so easy to use, it is best to use every time before you apply wax, polish, and/or paint sealant. "Clay" will not only remove the contaminants but the wax, polish and/or paint sealant will form a stronger bond to a truly clean surface.
How often to "clay" depends on the amount of driving you do, where the vehicle is parked and the surrounding environment. Example, if you drive in heavy traffic, if your vehicle is parked near trees, or if there is a lot of pollution in your area, I would recommend doing a "clay cleaning" at least every few months or 4-6 times per year. Since it is so easy to use, many end users that fall into the category of "DIY", (do-it-yourself) do a "clay cleaning" every time they wash the vehicle. With the average price of $15 for a small container of clay, you can usually clean a full size vehicle at least 10 times, which breaks down to $1.50 per cleaning. The cost is really nothing compared to the benefit you are doing for your paint.
If you have a light colored vehicle, you can usually visually inspect the paint, however on darker colors, it is best to inspect your paint when the finish is wet. A wet finish will help you to detect the contaminants easier than if the finish is dry. A good test is when your washing the vehicle, or after a rain, simply take your hand a rub it across the wet finish. If it feels rough or has a slight "grit" feeling, you should "clay" it.
As for prices of detailing, the average cost is usually at or over $100 for a full detail, however prices will vary depending on what area of the country your located and the services that they are performing. In the event that your vehicle has heavy swirl marks, they may recommend that your finish be "buffed" with a compound to remove the swirls, this service is not usually included in a full detail and will add to the price.
Some professional detailers that do use clay, usually charge an extra $60-$100 to do a "clay cleaning", however I have seen some that include it into a full detail for @$200.
I'm glad to hear that you are going to get your car detailed.. Good job!!! Turtle Wax: I use Turtle Wax along with Meguiars products. I prefer Meguiars. As others have said, it is in the application and preparation, not really the kind of wax. Eventhough some waxes are better than others. let us know what you think of your freshly waxed car!
I am also glad to see that others abide by my theory: Clean cars drive better!!
I hate to sound like a complete novice (I am one, but I hate to sound like one), but the very sound of the activity sounds like there is a very real potential for damaging the paint surface if not done correctly. And time-consuming as well. I may be unfortunate, but with the relatively little time I have that is not spent at work (roughly two days a week ;-) its tough to find an entire day available to spend in my garage (uh oh, here comes the wife complaing about this and the two kids screaming about that... egads!).
Seriously, it sounds like I have to do some reading on what claying is, and how to best take care of my car's finish...
Hey - we were all novices at one time. Great car care is now so much easier than it was when I started!
rickmtb1, since you express the desire to learn, I will let you in on the BIGGEST SECRET to car maintenance that will save you countless hours of backbreaking work . . . . . . .
Are you ready? The REAL secret to car care is - - - to do it all the time on a regular basis! Don't wait until your car's paint is falling off to wax it - it will then take 3 or 4 times the effort. The same for washing, cleaning the interior, etc.
I do car maintenance every weekend, weather permitting -even if "it doesn't need it". Since there is so little to do, it only takes me about 40-50 minutes to vacuum, dust and Pledge the interior, clean the windows, wash, rinse and dry the outside and treat the tires - for TWO CARS!
I wax them 2-3 times per year - even if they "don't need it". It goes fast, and I don't need to use buffing compound first to get the oxidation off. The finished result is always better.
The reward is that the cars always look good, and if it is necessary to skip a week, it is no big deal. Also, as is well documented above - clean cars run better and last longer and are worth a lot more when you sell or trade.
There is tons of good information on the Web - erazer.com about claying, autofanatics.com about most other things, zainobros.com about polymer finishes, etc. etc., but the real secret is known to all the real "pros" - do it regularly.
What you'll find is that it may take about 3 hours to do the "first" detail yourself. I'm a big believer in the stuff we aren't supposed to mention in this thread, but I find that after the first detail, my car doesn't get as dirty as quickly. After the detail, dirt, grime, bugs, etc. wash off so much more quickly. Sometimes all I have to do is use just plain water to get the dirt off my car.
Moral of the story...whatever time you invest up front to detail your car, will save you time in the future in caring for your car's finish.
The two previous posts are right on the money. I have the "luxury" of a power washer at home. Just plain water gets about 90% of the road dirt off, and bugs and road tar just wash right off without scrubbing the car. A quick once over with a good car wash solution takes care of the other 10%. I also tend to reapply a coat of the "wax" of my choice before the care really "needs" it. Get in the habit of doing it on a regular basis and you'l be surprised at how easy it really is.
The car I have now ('99 300M) is my first with a leather interior, so I like to apply a leather conditioner just as regularly. Not only does it keep it looking good, it keeps that great leather smell going as well!
Claying doesn't take as long as you might think. Keep the surface lubricated and the clay glides over the finish fairly quickly. It might take a second pass to get rid of water deposits, and a second or third one to get the sap or bird doo, but it goes quickly, and does not damage the finish (even though it seems like it could)
Thanks for the reinforcement - it really IS easy to take good care of a car if you do it regularly. I feel too many people dread it because they let it go until it IS a lot of work.
In between your leather treatments, you can use a quick spritz of Lemon Pledge. I use Lexol twice a year, and Pledge the rest of the time. It also keeps the leather nice and soft and has a nice light fragrance, and it is great for the vinyl, wood, chrome and plastic inside the car, too. Pledge is self-cleaning and won't build up like other vinyl treatments.
OK I give up after reading all the clay post and even smarting off about it.Some one tell me ....should I clay my new red truck even though it doesn`t seem to have any water spots or blemishes and feels smooth to the touch ??? I`m starting to worry that I`ve neglected it or something.My truck`s already the shiniest vehicle I`ve seen since the car show at the Fairgrounds 3 yrs.ago. ps; What would clay do to a windshield if rubbed across it to clean it ??? Just curious .
OK I give up after reading all the clay post and even smarting off about it.Some one tell me ....should I clay my new red truck even though it doesn`t seem to have any water spots or blemishes and feels smooth to the touch ??? I`m starting to worry that I`ve neglected it or something.My truck`s already the shiniest vehicle I`ve seen since the car show at the Fairgrounds 3 yrs.ago. ps; What would clay do to a windshield if rubbed across it to clean it ??? Just curious .
Clay cannot hurt your finish, and there may be some microscopic particles in your paint that you are not aware of. Since you have no comparison, maybe it can be even smoother?
newwestd is right, it can't hurt your paint, and there is most likely paint contamination present. When you decide to do a "clay cleaning" try to stay away from the dark colored clays, only the light colored clays will allow you to inspect the bar to see just what you have removed and they are better at allowing you to judge when the bar is dirty.
if the clay is dropped on the floor or ground. It will pick up pieces of sand that can scratch the paint. If you drop your clay bar, pinch off the piece that hit the ground. Or throw the whole clay bar away if you have a lot of sand in it.
Clay cannot pick up stuff which is not there. If you merely clean your glass, you will remove all those road/brake/rail dust junk. As window glass is very hard (harder than steel), non-porous, and very rigid, it will not (ie: like a clear coat) be impregnated by brake dust. So, claying a window will probably not help much. The problem with window glass is that it can be easily coated with films of chemical residue. That's road tars on exterior surfaces and plastic residue on interior surfaces.
What to do: Again, I'm no expert but: I clean my windows with a slightly abrasive cleaner (many on the market) and then polish it with common Windex. Afterwards, you can use Rainx, Zaino, or any number of anti-static, water repelant sprays. But the main idea is to just frequently clean you windows to prevent dirt from hardening on the surface.
It is probably safer to cut the bar in half and if you drop one in the dirt toss it, you still have a fresh half to work with. I just don't think it is worth the risk of trying to clean off a bar after its been dropped, even on a clean driveway. If it drops and sticks where it lands, you might cut off the part that hits the ground, but if it bounces or rolls I don't think it can be salvaged even if it looks like you got all the dirt.
I can't imagine anything that is water soluble having any real protection at all. It may add a littel shine, but it will surely wash away when it gets wet next time.
But hey - no one who cares enough to study these forums would go to a car wash, would they?
Comments
AND NOW..., he comes home one evening to his station and sees what you have done! Cruel.
pblevine--what are you doing to keep your Accord shiny in the winter months?
I plan to sleep in a lot!
Actually, I'll probably just spray water (ie: garden hose) on it to remove road salts and assorted winter dirt. I've got 3 coats of Z2 it now and that should hold for a few months. Ok folks, I used the "Z" word, but I was asked. And besides, in this context, it could be multiple coats of your favorite wax. The idea is to build up enough protection to get you past the really bad part of winter. When the outside temperature goes above 40 (and if I have some spare time), I'll try to give it a real wash. That's about all. Do you have any other ideas?
The reason I decided on NuFinish is that, in my experience (and many others, apparently), it outlasts virtually all other store-bought
waxes. It continued to keep my old Maxima smooth and shiny for about almost a year. True, Maguire's was also highly rated, so I am also planning to try their product on top of the NuFinish to see if it improves the gloss. (Any reason I shouldn't do that?) NuFinish does bead less than regular wax, but someone once told me that beading is not necessarily a good thing - like when the big droplets of water freeze on the car.
Could NuFinish (or other polymer coatings like Z?) actually be harmful to brand-new finishes? Does anyone have any experience to support this? I understood that as long as it has some protective layer (of wax or polymer), the paint will be shielded; and moreover, that the less you polish or wax (i.e, rub) your car, the longer the original paint finish will last. If so, NuFinish should be among the best since you apply it only rarely, once or twice a year.
isn`t taking away from the shine or damaging the clearcoat then no harm done.I`ve tried it before
and had no problems with it but I prefer the conventional car waxes over nufinish
I have used Nu Finish all previous cars with no adverse problems. My last car only received Nu Finish waxings from the day it was new until I traded it at 12 years and the paint still shined like new.
I go along with the theory that a low abrasion wax that lasts the longest is the best choice, and in my experience, that is Nu Finish.
Didn't know much about it until I followed a post here to AutoFanatics http://www.autofanatics.com.
Spoke to Jim there and he answered every question I could ask. They have it there.
Collinite is my vote.
It looks like crap. I'm not pushing Z or any wax here, just simple car care. The Legend had an extra coat of paint and a really thick clear coat. They don't make 'em like that anymore. So the finish does last much longer than other cars. If my brother-in-law had washed and waxed it, it would look good. He only remembers when it did. I put my car next to his and he just walked away.
On ANY car, not protecting the clear coat with wax WILL speed up pits and oxidation. Period. And the '91 Legend, although better than others, is STILL subject to the same laws of chemistry and physics.
1. Used properly, clay won't scratch a finish, the key is to use the supplied liquid lubricant spray so that the clay glides on the surface. If the clay sticks or drags, you need to use more spray. Do small areas at a time.
2. Clay usually does nothing to add to or detract from shine. It's purpose is to pull out/off contaminants from the surface and make the finish smoother to the touch. If you remove a bad case of overspray, of course the finish will look better, but quite often, you can't see the difference, only feel it.
3. Clay will make your car easier to polish/wax since it's smoother.
4. Clay is great to use on the windshield. Glass gets stuff in it just like paint and using the clay will help your wiper blades last longer and work better.
5. Not every surface will benefit from clay. Some cars have avoided "rail dust" and other contaminants. The test is to wash and dry your car and rub your bare hand over the surface lightly. If it feels even a little bit like sandpaper and not super smooth, chances are a clay treatment will help greatly. If it feels perfectly smooth, a clay treatment won't help. It is still a good idea to clay any car on a regular schedule (once or twice a year for most street cars)to get out minor problems that could turn into big ones if you don't pay attention.
6. Any car driven enough on the street, will eventually need or benefit from a clay treatment.
7. Even high speed buffing with compound won't get out the same type of paint problems that clay does. on the other hand, clay can't do the same job that buffing or polishing does. (I recommend power buffing as a last resort, and only when done by a pro.)
8. Properly used, clay, at least Erazer, won't leave a residue, and you really don't need to re-wash before polishing or waxing. It's just an extra step that will tire you out, in my opinion and experience.
I started using clay, and then decided to sell it after watching brand new Corvettes getting the treatment at a friends dealership. When he told me why they used it, and I tried it for myself, I was convinced. I sell Erazer, and the owner of the company is great to work with, and posts here from time to time to try to dispell false rumors.
I have a section with car care tips on my web site at: http://www.dccarcare.com/tips.html
Happy detailing, if you haven't tried clay, I think you will be amazed.
Don
I also had a Millenia - they have fantastic paint. But my car was so shiny that it always drew comments, and when I sold it, I got $2500 OVER the residual value of the lease- enough for the down payment on my next car.
If you don't want to take car of your cars yourself, there are plenty of good detailers, even some that will come to your house and do it there. Think of it as an investment. Try it once, you won't believe it!
It is a big misnomer(sp) that clearcoats don't need waxing. They do. Your paint will not last as long without wax as with it. Thats a fact. If you ask any professional detailer they will tell you that it is vital to wax a car. Whether clearcoat or not.
Please do your Lexus a favor and wash and wax it. It is crying for wax!!!!!If you don't believe any of us, just ask your dealer if wax is needed. They will say to wax it at least twice a year. I know, because my Dad has a Lexus.
Lecture Over!!!
I also think a clean waxed car drives better. But, I don't think there are any studies to back me up on that :-)
If you think that modern waxes only last a week or 2 - then 1. You have't tried any wax made in the last 20 years, or 2. you think that "hot wax" at the car wash is a wax job.
Seriously, almost any good wax from a major maker such as Meguiar's or 3M or many others should last several months with proper prep and application. Also - the quality of the look and the protection is proportional to the effort to apply them - i.e. paste waxes seem to work better and last longer.
Anyway, you seem to be swayed - let's not stop the momentum - get over to that detailer ASAP, and please don't choose the cheapest one! Make sure you find one that will clay the car first, and you won't believe how smooth it will be. Since you like nice cars, you will realize that the value of your car just went up about $2K when you get it back.
Thanks for listening to us fanatics.
No, it is not a spiritual thing with the car - at least I don't think so! The fact is that people will subconsciously neglect the maintenance of a dirty car - repairs, oil changes, tires, alignment, WAXING, etc. When the car looks great, it is natural to want it to run great and you will naturally take better care of it mechanically.
So, you not only end up with a great looking car, but one that runs great, give the best fuel economy and will not quit on you in the undesirable part of town at night because of needed maintenance. Everyone wins!
The paint finish of today’s vehicles is subjected to more forms of paint contamination than the paint finishes of yesterday. Today, contaminants like rail dust, brake dust, and industrial fallout are a common problem all across the country. (click here: http://www.erazer.com/contamin.htm to learn more about these contaminants click here: http://www.erazer.com/preventi.htm to see prevention & removal methods) These contaminants cannot be removed with regular washing, (even if the vehicle is washed once a week).
Today, many GM, Ford, Chrysler & Toyota dealerships use “clay” to clean a finish prior-to a customer taking delivery of the vehicle. On the other hand, the majority waits until the customer makes a complaint until they clean the paint finish. Those that do not use “clay” to treat the finish, use acids and/or wet-sanding & buffing which can be detrimental to the paint finish, the end user, and the environment. Believe it or not, there are many dealerships, and professional detailers that are not familiar with “clay”. I know it sounds silly, but it is a fact! “Clay” as it is called, is one of the biggest and most recent advancements in “paint cleaning technology” and the market is still learning about the incredible benefits.
My point is these contaminants that are now infecting the paint finish of today’s vehicles, were not a big problem in the past. Today, they are a reoccurring problem today that needs proper maintenance. The longer that these contaminants are left untreated, the more damage that they create and washing & waxing alone is not enough to remove and protect the finish from these contaminants.
ALL VEHICLES ARE SUBJECTED TO THIS CONTAMINATION, THERE IS NO VEHICLE THAT CAN ESCAPE SOME FORM OF RAIL DUST, BRAKE DUST, & INDUSTRIAL FALLOUT CONTAMINATION.
“Claying” the paint finish often, ensures that the finish is truly clean. Although waxing, polishing and/or applying a paint sealant will not protect the finish from rail dust, brake dust & industrial fallout, it does have more advantages than just enhancing the appearance. The paint finish of a vehicle is porous. When applied properly most waxes, polishes and/or paint sealant will help to protect against chipping, fading, and/or oxidation.
As mentioned, many dealers clean the finish before the consumer takes delivery. Although the manufacturer gives the dealer a generous allowance to “properly clean the paint finish”, most just do a “quick clean” to get the dirt off.
As an avid automotive enthusiast myself, I know that we all stroll through the dealers from time to time checking out the new models and/or inventory. The next time your out and about, stroll through the lot and check out some of the vehicles that have just been delivered or ones that have been sitting on the lot a while. You will be shocked that the status of the paint finish before the dealer “preps” them. Specifically, first look at the white colored vehicles so you can get an idea of what the contaminants look like, then take your hand with your palm flat and run it over the paint finish so you get an idea of the texture. Next time you look at and/or touch a contaminated vehicle, whether light or dark color, you will know.
Oh, and if you want to know something about the chemicals and/or procedures that the dealer uses to clean the finish. Don’t ask any of the salesman, managers and/or parts managers, ask the porter or detailer who is actually using the products and performing the cleaning (some dealers have in-house employees, others send the vehicles out, in the event that the dealer sends a vehicle out, just ask where they send it). Usually, the detailers are pretty friendly and will respect you for inquiring about their duties.
In advance, sorry for the long-winded post, just trying to help and offer additional insight.
John
lannyc, the deal is just that you have nice cars, so take them to someone that knows what they are doing. I have found that the better shops use clay, the schlocky shops do not.
I hope you will let us know your feelings when you get the car back!
That said, lannyc (no knock on you for not waxing your car or going to a detailer), if you want a detailer to do your car, to do it right it's going to cost more than $100. A good clay job is required since I'll assume that your car has been on the road for a while with no wax. It's a foregone conclusion that all kind of "nasties" have parked themselves in your paint. After the claying, the polish/wax routine will be at least a two step process (I'd recommend 3 steps).
First, the paint needs to have a cleaner put on it after the claying. Second, it will need to be polished. Third, a good wax job. If you find a detailer willing to do all three (or at least two...polishing and waxing) of the steps, they will probably charge more than $100. Turtle Wax would be way down on my list on what to use.
Go to an AutoZone or PEP Boys. Buy the Meguiars 3 step process (can't recall the name...ask a clerk) and have the detailer use that according to the directions laid out by Meguiars.
Just my opinion.
How often to "clay" depends on the amount of driving you do, where the vehicle is parked and the surrounding environment. Example, if you drive in heavy traffic, if your vehicle is parked near trees, or if there is a lot of pollution in your area, I would recommend doing a "clay cleaning" at least every few months or 4-6 times per year. Since it is so easy to use, many end users that fall into the category of "DIY", (do-it-yourself) do a "clay cleaning" every time they wash the vehicle. With the average price of $15 for a small container of clay, you can usually clean a full size vehicle at least 10 times, which breaks down to $1.50 per cleaning. The cost is really nothing compared to the benefit you are doing for your paint.
If you have a light colored vehicle, you can usually visually inspect the paint, however on darker colors, it is best to inspect your paint when the finish is wet. A wet finish will help you to detect the contaminants easier than if the finish is dry. A good test is when your washing the vehicle, or after a rain, simply take your hand a rub it across the wet finish. If it feels rough or has a slight "grit" feeling, you should "clay" it.
As for prices of detailing, the average cost is usually at or over $100 for a full detail, however prices will vary depending on what area of the country your located and the services that they are performing. In the event that your vehicle has heavy swirl marks, they may recommend that your finish be "buffed" with a compound to remove the swirls, this service is not usually included in a full detail and will add to the price.
Some professional detailers that do use clay, usually charge an extra $60-$100 to do a "clay cleaning", however I have seen some that include it into a full detail for @$200.
I am also glad to see that others abide by my theory: Clean cars drive better!!
Seriously, it sounds like I have to do some reading on what claying is, and how to best take care of my car's finish...
rickmtb1, since you express the desire to learn, I will let you in on the BIGGEST SECRET to car maintenance that will save you countless hours of backbreaking work . . . . . . .
Are you ready? The REAL secret to car care is - - - to do it all the time on a regular basis! Don't wait until your car's paint is falling off to wax it - it will then take 3 or 4 times the effort. The same for washing, cleaning the interior, etc.
I do car maintenance every weekend, weather permitting -even if "it doesn't need it". Since there is so little to do, it only takes me about 40-50 minutes to vacuum, dust and Pledge the interior, clean the windows, wash, rinse and dry the outside and treat the tires - for TWO CARS!
I wax them 2-3 times per year - even if they "don't need it". It goes fast, and I don't need to use buffing compound first to get the oxidation off. The finished result is always better.
The reward is that the cars always look good, and if it is necessary to skip a week, it is no big deal. Also, as is well documented above - clean cars run better and last longer and are worth a lot more when you sell or trade.
There is tons of good information on the Web - erazer.com about claying, autofanatics.com about most other things, zainobros.com about polymer finishes, etc. etc., but the real secret is known to all the real "pros" - do it regularly.
Moral of the story...whatever time you invest up front to detail your car, will save you time in the future in caring for your car's finish.
The car I have now ('99 300M) is my first with a leather interior, so I like to apply a leather conditioner just as regularly. Not only does it keep it looking good, it keeps that great leather smell going as well!
In between your leather treatments, you can use a quick spritz of Lemon Pledge. I use Lexol twice a year, and Pledge the rest of the time. It also keeps the leather nice and soft and has a nice light fragrance, and it is great for the vinyl, wood, chrome and plastic inside the car, too. Pledge is self-cleaning and won't build up like other vinyl treatments.
ps; What would clay do to a windshield if rubbed across it to clean it ??? Just curious .
ps; What would clay do to a windshield if rubbed across it to clean it ??? Just curious .
So - why not?
What to do: Again, I'm no expert but: I clean my windows with a slightly abrasive cleaner (many on the market) and then polish it with common Windex. Afterwards, you can use Rainx, Zaino, or any number of anti-static, water repelant sprays. But the main idea is to just frequently clean you windows to prevent dirt from hardening on the surface.
http://www.redisoft.com/groupbuycenter/buy.asp?mode=read&row_id=45&Buy_Title=Zaino+Bros%2E+Products
But hey - no one who cares enough to study these forums would go to a car wash, would they?