Is it my engine or what!! (24V DOHC on a 2001). I called Pep Boys and they want $30 for the part and $58 to install it, somehow he added that up to $100.71! OUCH! NAPA part is like $15.
Called Jiffy Lube and they do it for $59.99, but when I questioned if it is the same for all cars she didn't know. A guy came on and did say that some Tauruses they don't/can't do and that I should stop in and they can tell me.
Looking like I may as well use a "real" shop. The guy I bought the car from had claimed it was done about 12,000 miles ago, less than 2 years anyhow. Yet, Ford says it looks very old. Maybe the guy was confused and he never did it because it was too hard? He would have done it himself...he did his oil and his trans fluid changes himself.
OH MY GOSH! I just called a "real" shop, they want $50-60 and FORD says it's $70. What is Pep BOys thinking? I may do Ford as my son can have an appt and wait. The other shop is a leave it in the morning shop, and I don't know if I trust Jiffy Lube.
My 2001 has had a steering rack leak ever since we bought it 3 months ago. ABout 3000 miles have been put on it. I added some fluid when I found out it leaked and it was just below min (while not running). I filled it up just below max. After about 2500 miles it had lost enough to be a slight bit below the middle line. I added more and haven't looked at it since (2 weeks?) A few times there have been large (dinner plate size) spots on the road, several times there have been drips smaller than hand size, and some very small spots. It doesn't seem to be losing a lot. My friend noted that it leaks when the wheels are turned, but not straight.
I was going to "let it ride" for a bit as it is a $700 repair. The Parts guy today made a comment that it could just blow and we'd lose the steering. I hadn't thought that was a likely scenario. I thought it would get worse first, and that I'd notice it and act on it.
I am waiting because we've only had it 3 months and I fear there could be mechanical problems (no real reason to think that, except age and a couple stalls that are hopefully just the IAC). I am just leery of dumping that much money into it, yet we just bought it, so getting rid of it is not an option anyhow.
Any comments on how long I should or shouldn't wait? Afraid to let my hubby know about the cost since it's my son's car.
You haven't had too good of luck with that car. stalling, no start, and power steering issues - Oh My.
Per the power steering rack, if it blows you will lose power steering but not steering. The car could be steered but it will be much much harder to turn the steering wheel. To let you know what you are in for try turning the steering wheel when the motor is not running with the key in the on position. It will be quite a battle but the car can be steered. When the car is moving it will be much easier to steer. If after that experiment you think you could handle a power steering failure then I would say to wait. If the steering is too much without power then you'd better get it fixed.
My Sable has the other engine (the Vulcan v-6). I have changed the fuel filter twice and it wasn't too tough. You need to get the passenger side of the car up in the air, you take off two plastic clips and the fuel line hoses then just slide off of the fuel filter. A wrench takes off a bolt holding the fuel filter in place. Putting the new one in is just the reverse of removing the old one. Make sure that you have the fuel filter installed with the arrow pointing forward (towards the engine). Also the plastic clips are flimsey and I have broken them. The dealer gets way too much for that little piece of plastic so try not to break it.
The no-start you must be remembering was back when I thought I messed up the alternator by putting the battery in wrong. That one was on me, not the car. It turned out to be a fuse!
It has stalled on 2 nights, but we are hoping that the new idle air control valve will prevent that from happening again.
The steering is an issue I've known about for months, and have been watching. My son drives it and he is much stronger than I am, so he'd be better at turning it than I would probably be if it went out. I am trying to determine the likelihood of it actually failing without first developing a much worse leak.
I don't climb under cars...so I'll leave the filter to the pros...plus, I'd likely break those plastic clips! Today's concern is mainly whether to let the steering ride for a bit longer.
hi I have Mercury sable 2002 3.0 liter engine 12 valve.32000 miles,I am hearing noise where the camshaft and valves,is like a old engine belt doing that but I replace with new one and sound coming top of the engine.I had it 2001 mercury sable had a same proplem dealer replace all the valves cost to 980.dollar.I dont want to pay 980 dollar again,if there is any recall for this issue,to live same proplem two diffrent mercury it must be defect of this cars. or if any one lived same proplem and how you resolved.sorry for my bad english and thank you...
jasmith52 has given you good advice. If you plan to keep this car and drive it safely, you should have the rack replaced .. I have an 99 Taurus that had the same symptoms as what you are experiencing.. (puddle of fluid, leaks, blow back from the pump reservoir, and finally lost POWER steering control ) Ford did the job more reasonable than any other shop quoted, probably because they know their cars better than independents. You should get this done before you cause problems with your pump and more added cost. ( 700 bucks isn't a bad price if it includes the necessary alignment after to get the car right. Good luck
Hi, Thanks for reinforcing my decision. Are you saying Ford did yours, or are you saying why you think they are lower priced than independents for mine? It does include the alignment and tax, I asked.
One or two questions for you , if you don't mind. When you say blowback, what do you mean? Are you talking about how there is evidence under the car (I think under my trans pan) that fluid has leaked, or something else?
Also, what happened when yours went? Were you driving? How bad was it?
I have the appt scheduled for next week. I decided I will rest easier when he is out, knowing there is one less thing that could go wrong. Since he is 17 and popular with the girls and is always out, I have a LOT to worry about with him!
I own a 1997 Mercury Sable 3.0 OHV 115,000 miles. It has 2 weird issues I can't figure out???? The EGR is on at all times with an EGR circuit fault code. Before that it had a P0401 code, so I replaced the DPFE and cleared the code. it went away. This I checked the vaacum control valve it appears to function correctly.
Also this car has misfire code P0301 (number 1 spark) on several times. I compression tested the engine, replaced the wires, and so on. The only thing I haven't checked is the fuel injector(s)( except specs are right and it clicks) for that cylinder? Cylinder show no problem which is shared on the coil with number one. The engine appears mechanically sound, good vaacum reading and compression, so I'm starting suspect the PCM is causing the weirdness. Anybody ever had this happen to a sable, or taurus?
Your coolant smell could be your heater core, which I was told by Midas was a $500 fix through them. My mechanic won't touch it since he would have to mess with the SRS (safety restraint system).
As for your hood not wanting to pop, mine does the same thing. Someone turned in front of me, and evidentally, the body shop that fixed it did not do something right. When it does happen, I pull the lever inside the car several times to be sure it is unlatched on the underside, then I ease my fingers between the front edge of the hood and the front bumper area.
Did you ever find out what was causing the problem? A few weeks ago, my 1997 Taurus GL with 153K miles started making a similar loud humming sound starting around 20 miles per hour and continues the sound at any speed above that. It does not do this when idling in Park or when revving and holding RPMs at 2000 or even 3000. It only does this when driving down the road.
During this time mileage has been terrible at 16 MPG city and 22 MPG highway. I normally get 30-32 MPG on the highway depending on how fast I drive. I have been buying the same 87-octane gas I have bought for years at Marathon.
Fuel filter and air filter were just replaced as they were overdue. I replaced water pump several weeks ago and it is working as it should. The only trouble code from the computer is 430 which it has been kicking out regularly for a year now so I don't think that is the problem.
Coil packs on that year well affect two spark plugs like 1 & 5 unlees 24 OHC then seprate coils. There are test with an Ohmmeter to cofirm a bad coil pack.(Coil Packs for a OHV(letter U are $100+) It could be you put NGK plugs which are awful use motorcraft double plat., or you cracked a plug installing the new ones. I've done this before.
Plugged fuel injectors on my 1997 sable appear to be causing the misfire on plug 1. The plug looks like a misfire/high speed glazed plug.
The injector and/or O-ring seal, or upper and lower manifold could be leaking causing a misfire. Do a vacuum test and compression first. Min compression is 100psi no lower and the highest/lowest should be within 10psi difference. Mine reads 120, 122, 124, 123, 120, 121psi. on my engine.
Then use a vacuum gauge(about$20) to see if your engine holds steady engine running vacuum on 17 to 21 inches with no erratic/swinging needle movements(Mine is 18)..... These tests confirm a mechanically sound engine; then check plugs, wire, coil, injectors, and seals.
Hello again, I would have got back to you earlier but had technical problems. Pertaining to your rack problem; I had FORD do the job because they were the most reasonable and are ( let's face it ) experts in their own makes. I think I paid $675 with alignment . Local garages wanted between $720 and $950 and still needed aligning for another $80. Prior to having this done I started losing power assist especially when turning into driveway or crossing roads and turning... generally low speed. You ask how bad it was ... Well let's put it this way ... I wouldn't let my wife or kids drive it. You will definitely be able to rest easy after the Pro's do the work. Good Luck
I forgot to answer your questions on blowback and evidence of leakage . I was get fluid backup in my reservoir after the engine was turned off. There showed signs of leakage from that and from the rack seals . All my problems stemmed from BAD rack bearings. Also your better to have the dealer do this; make sure the pump is in good shape. Hope this helps
Just last week I was on my way to have the oil changed and the "low coolant" light came on for the first time in my 2000 SEL. Perfect timing - my mechanic merely added coolant to the resevoir tank. The light went out for a week and came back on last Sat. The fluid is at the top of this overflow tank so should I ignor the light thinking that it's reading it incorrectly? It has only 41,000 miles on it and is driven only six miles a day.
First off all I want to know if my merury sable is the same as the ford since it says ford underneath the hood. the story.
I live on the oregon coast and I was taking a nice drive to salem to visit friends and family. 35 miles out of town I was going up a hill when all of a sudden the engine made a clanking sound and the engine started smoking real bad I immediatly pulled over and put the car into park and shut off the engine. I poped the hood where smoke was billowing out of it. after the car was done smoking I looked under the hood and noticed oil residue. I then checked underneath of the car and noticed that it dumped a [non-permissible content removed] load of oil. I tried to turn the car over but all i get is a click sounf which maybe due to the automatic fuel shut off. I dont want to turn it back on because I'm worried about the engine seizeing up. So what I need to know is how do i manually crank the engine to tell if the engine is already seized and any other ideas of what it maybe.
other problems are 1. the check engine light is always on 2. when the car is in overdrive the O/D light is always flashing. 3. I hate this car
Our 2002 Taurus has a flat front left tire this morning as we came to the garage. I grabbed my air tank and attempted to fill the tire. No luck, too much air was leaking out. So I removed the lug nuts and tried to pull the wheel off. It was stuck. After further inspection I was shocked.....the coil spring had broke and was stuck through the side of the tire! I am glad we were not driving at the time! Anyone have experience with this?? I do all of my own repairs, any tips on replacing this spring? Thank you. tribs74
I believe there is a recall on this problem but I'm not sure what years are covered. Anyhow if it's still happening on newer models it should be recalled.
My son, 17, had a friend connect neon lights inside his car, aimed at the floor.
It's a 2001 SEL w/mach audio.
My son has no idea how the kid did it. He just knows the kid also did it in his own car (different kind).
Is there anything I can check to make sure it is not wired to somewhere it definitely should NOT be?
I am scared he will fry some circuit or something, or drain his battery.
The alternator is a toughie to repair/replace in his engine (DOHC) because it is buried under there. Can he damage that by wiring in these lights improperly???
Please tell me if there is somewhere I should check to be sure it is not wired to certain things, or any advice you can give me would be great. Thanks!
I just flushed and filled my 1999 Sable DOHC. Used distilled water, as is frequently recommended. Thing is, the coolant level sensor works by applying a voltage to the coolant, and if there is a current going through, it 'senses' a correct coolant level. No current, it assumes no coolant. Now, distilled water and new coolant don't conduct electric current. So your reserve tank could be filled to the brim but you (and I) get a low coolant level alarm. You can either ignore it like I am, or put some salt in the reserve tank (teaspoon MAXIMUM) and the salt will make the coolant conduct a current. The problem with this approach is that the salt will make it more likely the coolant will cause corrosion in the engine. Like I said, I am ignoring the low coolant alarm. After a while it will go away, as the coolant builds up debris/ionic stuff in there and start conducting a current.
You got it, FORD did have the best price. I was amazed.
A week after, I saw another puddle in the road. I freaked. Mt friend thought the pan gasket was wet. I worried the trans had a worse leak than just the pan. I worried the puddles weren't the steering and were the trans all along. (though I knew steering did have a leak for sure)
Trans place found only a tiny dipstick tube leak. Said the dealer must have spilled steering fluid (same stuff as trans) onto the frame where it sat until it felt like spilling out a week later. He did find fluid evidnece there
It is recalled, I bought a 1999 Sable with the same thing. It was recalled in any "northern" state where salt is commonly used in winter, as the springs tend to fail.... The dealer installs shields so when the spring does fail, it does NOT go through the tire. They do NOT replace the spring.
have a 87 ford taurus 2.5 4 cyl with bad motor, fwd. what years of motors can be put back in that car? have been told only that year, an does it have to come out of a car,so long as its fwd?
It does matter what year and model, but I suspect a any Ford, Mercury Sable 2.5 front wheel drive engine.
"Short block, sable, taurus - 2.5l - 2.5L 86-90 $1,881.48" is on Team Ford Parts Online. They even list a V6, "Short block, sable, taurus, 3.0l - 3.0l, 3.8l - 3.0L, 3.8L 86-89 $2,178.38" I suspect this V6 would require some mods to fit, but as you can see the Taurus/Sable 4cyl. is 86-90, so those are the years. "Short Block" you need to look the meaning of that, but it's basically a complete engine block without a head and manifolds.
In the 90's it would need to be computer matched with the unless you had the whole car, the 80's were different computer systems.
You may be able to use any Ford 2.5 engine. Call a reputable Junk yard. The have used parts Interchange manuals that can tell you what you can and can't put under hood, or what has to be changed to fit a different engine.
Sounds like a door light switch switch, same thing happened to my 1997 Ford Ranger and 1997 Mercury Sable, except the Ranger turned it off after twenty minutes & the Sable I had to pull the fuse. This depends on where that switch is, but you may be able to fix this if the switch is in latching mechanism in the door by spraying inside the door latches with WD40 and closing them a few times. That works on the one Ford/Mercury put in the door latch unless something is :sick:
my 91 tarurs with 3.8 idols low sometimes,high sometimes seems to worse with a/c on and also causes trans. to shift funny sometimes it has a rebuilt trans. and no check eng. light please help
Well, after 120K miles of flawless performance, the other day it idled rough & low on power. about a year ago had a complete tune up to clear check engine light due to a cylinder misfire but did not affect performance. This time check engine sometimes flashes. Funny thing, It does it about 50% of the time. I keeping the car around town to burn full tank of gas with fuel injector cleaner before taking action to fix it. Because of 1.5 year of tranny rebuild expense I'd like to keep it a little longer as a go to work car. Appreciate any suggestions on what might be the problem.
Has any one ever ran into replacement of the rear O2 sensor, before converter, with no access that I can find, with out tearing half the car apart. would love a short cut. Thanks Mike
The car makes a noise that sound like tire noise that begins only at about 75 M.P.H. and when the outside temperature is about 80 degrees or higher. The tires have been replaced with no change. Once the cooler weather sets in the noise does not happen at all. It has the flex-fuel 12 valve V6. Thanks.
My 2001 Escape had the light come on with plenty of coolant in the reserve. It was a defective coolant level sensor located in the reserve bottle. Not sure about price because it was replaced under warranty.
Over the Labor Day weekend my 98 taurus was driven into about 2.5 feet of water. Since then i have replaced the battery, the starter, and the air filter. It still will not turn over, the starter clicks but thats it. All help would be greatly appreciated. Thank you.
I HAVE A 97 TAURUS SHO 3.4L. V-8 ENGINE.I BOUGHT THIS CAR OF A LOT .THE DEALER SAID THAT HE DIDNT HAVE THE KEYLESS CODE FOR THE DOOR . NOW I HAVE THE KEYLESS REMOTE BUT I WAS WONDERING IF SOMEONE CAN TELL ME WHERE THE CODE IS LOCATED IN THE CAR. IT IS NOT IN THE MANUAL. PLEASE HELP ME THANKS \
i bought a 1997 taurus sho 3.4l v8 engine. the problem is that the cd changer stopped working in it. what happened was i let my old man go to the store by myself. he went to the car and got in the trunk to changer the cds that was in there and end up putting 2 cds in to 1 slot. so i noticed that he had not left to go the store so i go out there to see whats wrong ,he says the cd changer is not working . so i look at it and noticed 2 cd in one slot so i take 1 out put the cd holder back in the changer and it starts working. so he didnt like the cd that was on so i changed the disc number and it change but it will not play no more. can someone help me with that problem plz thank u
taurus 97 sho 3.4l v8 engine. i hear noises from the front end maybe like when i turn it makes a popping and or a cracking sound. when i go over a speed bump my front end sounds like it needs oiled or grease up like it is real dried. i know i need a tune up on it.also in the [non-permissible content removed] end it sounds real ruff too like when i a bump or the roads real ruff. now i have noticed when i hit 30-40 mph that i feel a shaking from the car my legs ,feet,and body shakes but if i get it high then 40 mph it seems like the shaking stops. oh also does anyone know where the spark plugs and wires are located on the engine. pleasee someone out there plz help me out .thank you :mad:
There are two power ports in the lower dash. Isn't one of them supposed to turn on and off with the ignition and the other stay on with or without the ignition? It looks like both are staying on even with the ignition off. How much work and expense do you think it would take to have either the dealer or a stereo shop tie one (and only one of the two) to the ignition being on or off?
I have a 96 mercury sable. I am having a problem with the seat belt light flashing on and off. When ever it does that...the power steering is harder to turn and the windows will not go down or up...this is only when the car is in drive when the car is in Park...everything works find...any ideas on what it could be?
I have 99 Sable. The ABS light starts turning on after about 5 miles of driving. The brake light also turn on briefly in the morning when the car hits a bump. Any idea what is wrong? I really regret buying the car.
I am sorry I do not know much about cars. But I went through a lot of problems with my car none with the the ABS light. I went on the this website and did a live chat with some people which were able to help me. http://www.taurusclub.com/forum/index.php?act=Reg&CODE=00
This is for taurus and mercury. Also I would of I were you google your car and see the normal problems that you have with your car. That is what I did with mine...it did help out a lot. Good luck and I hope you figure out the problem.
Just got a new 08 Taurus. Anybody know when I should make my first oil change? Can't find anything in the manual? I've read that with the new engines you shouldn't change any sooner then normal and that engine fillings help scour the pistons and valves so everything seats better. I just don't want to screw up the engine.
Love the car so far. This thing is perhaps the best I've ever owned. Quiet as a church on the road.
Comments
Called Jiffy Lube and they do it for $59.99, but when I questioned if it is the same for all cars she didn't know. A guy came on and did say that some Tauruses they don't/can't do and that I should stop in and they can tell me.
Looking like I may as well use a "real" shop. The guy I bought the car from had claimed it was done about 12,000 miles ago, less than 2 years anyhow. Yet, Ford says it looks very old. Maybe the guy was confused and he never did it because it was too hard? He would have done it himself...he did his oil and his trans fluid changes himself.
OH MY GOSH! I just called a "real" shop, they want $50-60 and FORD says it's $70. What is Pep BOys thinking? I may do Ford as my son can have an appt and wait. The other shop is a leave it in the morning shop, and I don't know if I trust Jiffy Lube.
I was going to "let it ride" for a bit as it is a $700 repair. The Parts guy today made a comment that it could just blow and we'd lose the steering. I hadn't thought that was a likely scenario. I thought it would get worse first, and that I'd notice it and act on it.
I am waiting because we've only had it 3 months and I fear there could be mechanical problems (no real reason to think that, except age and a couple stalls that are hopefully just the IAC). I am just leery of dumping that much money into it, yet we just bought it, so getting rid of it is not an option anyhow.
Any comments on how long I should or shouldn't wait? Afraid to let my hubby know about the cost since it's my son's car.
You haven't had too good of luck with that car. stalling, no start, and power steering issues - Oh My.
Per the power steering rack, if it blows you will lose power steering but not steering. The car could be steered but it will be much much harder to turn the steering wheel. To let you know what you are in for try turning the steering wheel when the motor is not running with the key in the on position. It will be quite a battle but the car can be steered. When the car is moving it will be much easier to steer. If after that experiment you think you could handle a power steering failure then I would say to wait. If the steering is too much without power then you'd better get it fixed.
My Sable has the other engine (the Vulcan v-6). I have changed the fuel filter twice and it wasn't too tough. You need to get the passenger side of the car up in the air, you take off two plastic clips and the fuel line hoses then just slide off of the fuel filter. A wrench takes off a bolt holding the fuel filter in place. Putting the new one in is just the reverse of removing the old one. Make sure that you have the fuel filter installed with the arrow pointing forward (towards the engine). Also the plastic clips are flimsey and I have broken them. The dealer gets way too much for that little piece of plastic so try not to break it.
The no-start you must be remembering was back when I thought I messed up the alternator by putting the battery in wrong. That one was on me, not the car. It turned out to be a fuse!
It has stalled on 2 nights, but we are hoping that the new idle air control valve will prevent that from happening again.
The steering is an issue I've known about for months, and have been watching. My son drives it and he is much stronger than I am, so he'd be better at turning it than I would probably be if it went out. I am trying to determine the likelihood of it actually failing without first developing a much worse leak.
I don't climb under cars...so I'll leave the filter to the pros...plus, I'd likely break those plastic clips! Today's concern is mainly whether to let the steering ride for a bit longer.
Thanks for responding!
I have Mercury sable 2002 3.0 liter engine 12 valve.32000 miles,I am hearing noise where the camshaft and valves,is like a old engine belt doing that but I replace with new one and sound coming top of the engine.I had it 2001 mercury sable had a same proplem dealer replace all the valves cost to 980.dollar.I dont want to pay 980 dollar again,if there is any recall for this issue,to live same proplem two diffrent mercury it must be defect of this cars. or if any one lived same proplem and how you resolved.sorry for my bad english and thank you...
One or two questions for you , if you don't mind. When you say blowback, what do you mean? Are you talking about how there is evidence under the car (I think under my trans pan) that fluid has leaked, or something else?
Also, what happened when yours went? Were you driving? How bad was it?
I have the appt scheduled for next week. I decided I will rest easier when he is out, knowing there is one less thing that could go wrong. Since he is 17 and popular with the girls and is always out, I have a LOT to worry about with him!
Thanks
The EGR is on at all times with an EGR circuit fault code. Before that it had a P0401 code, so I replaced the DPFE and cleared the code. it went away. This I checked the vaacum control valve it appears to function correctly.
Also this car has misfire code P0301 (number 1 spark) on several times. I compression tested the engine, replaced the wires, and so on. The only thing I haven't checked is the fuel injector(s)( except specs are right and it clicks) for that cylinder? Cylinder show no problem which is shared on the coil with number one.
The engine appears mechanically sound, good vaacum reading and compression, so I'm starting suspect the PCM is causing the weirdness.
Anybody ever had this happen to a sable, or taurus?
As for your hood not wanting to pop, mine does the same thing. Someone turned in front of me, and evidentally, the body shop that fixed it did not do something right. When it does happen, I pull the lever inside the car several times to be sure it is unlatched on the underside, then I ease my fingers between the front edge of the hood and the front bumper area.
During this time mileage has been terrible at 16 MPG city and 22 MPG highway. I normally get 30-32 MPG on the highway depending on how fast I drive. I have been buying the same 87-octane gas I have bought for years at Marathon.
Fuel filter and air filter were just replaced as they were overdue. I replaced water pump several weeks ago and it is working as it should. The only trouble code from the computer is 430 which it has been kicking out regularly for a year now so I don't think that is the problem.
Plugged fuel injectors on my 1997 sable appear to be causing the misfire on plug 1. The plug looks like a misfire/high speed glazed plug.
The injector and/or O-ring seal, or upper and lower manifold could be leaking causing a misfire.
Do a vacuum test and compression first. Min compression is 100psi no lower and the highest/lowest should be within 10psi difference. Mine reads 120, 122, 124, 123, 120, 121psi. on my engine.
Then use a vacuum gauge(about$20) to see if your engine holds steady engine running vacuum on 17 to 21 inches with no erratic/swinging needle movements(Mine is 18)..... These tests confirm a mechanically sound engine; then check plugs, wire, coil, injectors, and seals.
Good Luck
Hope this helps
I live on the oregon coast and I was taking a nice drive to salem to visit friends and family. 35 miles out of town I was going up a hill when all of a sudden the engine made a clanking sound and the engine started smoking real bad I immediatly pulled over and put the car into park and shut off the engine. I poped the hood where smoke was billowing out of it. after the car was done smoking I looked under the hood and noticed oil residue. I then checked underneath of the car and noticed that it dumped a [non-permissible content removed] load of oil. I tried to turn the car over but all i get is a click sounf which maybe due to the automatic fuel shut off. I dont want to turn it back on because I'm worried about the engine seizeing up. So what I need to know is how do i manually crank the engine to tell if the engine is already seized and any other ideas of what it maybe.
other problems are
1. the check engine light is always on
2. when the car is in overdrive the O/D light is always flashing.
3. I hate this car
It's a 2001 SEL w/mach audio.
My son has no idea how the kid did it. He just knows the kid also did it in his own car (different kind).
Is there anything I can check to make sure it is not wired to somewhere it definitely should NOT be?
I am scared he will fry some circuit or something, or drain his battery.
The alternator is a toughie to repair/replace in his engine (DOHC) because it is buried under there. Can he damage that by wiring in these lights improperly???
Please tell me if there is somewhere I should check to be sure it is not wired to certain things, or any advice you can give me would be great. Thanks!
A week after, I saw another puddle in the road. I freaked. Mt friend thought the pan gasket was wet. I worried the trans had a worse leak than just the pan. I worried the puddles weren't the steering and were the trans all along. (though I knew steering did have a leak for sure)
Trans place found only a tiny dipstick tube leak. Said the dealer must have spilled steering fluid (same stuff as trans)
onto the frame where it sat until it felt like spilling out a week later. He did find fluid evidnece there
"Short block, sable, taurus - 2.5l - 2.5L 86-90 $1,881.48" is on Team Ford Parts Online. They even list a V6, "Short block, sable, taurus, 3.0l - 3.0l, 3.8l - 3.0L, 3.8L 86-89 $2,178.38" I suspect this V6 would require some mods to fit, but as you can see the Taurus/Sable 4cyl. is 86-90, so those are the years. "Short Block" you need to look the meaning of that, but it's basically a complete engine block without a head and manifolds.
In the 90's it would need to be computer matched with the unless you had the whole car, the 80's were different computer systems.
You may be able to use any Ford 2.5 engine. Call a reputable Junk yard. The have used parts Interchange manuals that can tell you what you can and can't put under hood, or what has to be changed to fit a different engine.
This depends on where that switch is, but you may be able to fix this if the switch is in latching mechanism in the door by spraying inside the door latches with WD40 and closing them a few times. That works on the one Ford/Mercury put in the door latch unless something is :sick:
Mark.
James
:sick:
You need professional help so you don't destroy your car.
Mark
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It looks like both are staying on even with the ignition off.
How much work and expense do you think it would take to have either the dealer or a stereo shop tie one (and only one of the two) to the ignition being on or off?
:confuse:
This is for taurus and mercury. Also I would of I were you google your car and see the normal problems that you have with your car. That is what I did with mine...it did help out a lot. Good luck and I hope you figure out the problem.
Love the car so far. This thing is perhaps the best I've ever owned. Quiet as a church on the road.