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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair



  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    I don't thiñk that conversion will work without some stuff in the middle somewhere. If it would have, I would have converted one of my Explorers a few years ago.
  • wkohlerwkohler Posts: 74
    You're in for a lot more work than you bargained for. I followed the progress on another website and there's a LOT MORE to it than just replacing the control head. This has been some time ago and I don't remember all the particulars, but I do remember the individual never did get the system to work right and reinstalled the original controls.
  • dmysterdmyster Posts: 12
    My 2002 Sable has been flashing the transaxle warning light at me off and on for months now. I've done a little research, and it sounds like an expensive repair ($1000+). I am thinking of just selling the car and getting something different. Does anyone know anything about this, or have had troubles with this before? I'd really hate to sell such a great car!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    "I replaced the rear calipers since I could not move the pistons back to reload the pads."

    Did you try using the tool required to rotate the piston back down the parking brake jackscrew built into the caliper? Did you verify that the slots in the pistons lined up with the pins on the back of the inboard pads when installing?

    "I've read others talking about deteriorating brake lines causing rear brakes to drag.... How, exactly, does that happen?

    The flex hoses deteriorate internally, causing a flap of rubber to separate and form a one way check valve in the hose. Pretty common on that era Taurus. Easy to diagnose, raise the vehicle, apply and release the brake pedal, check for free rotation of the wheel. If tight to turn, crack open the bleeder screw to releive any residual pressure. If the wheel now turns freely, suspect a bad hose.
  • jamannjamann Posts: 1
    I got in this AM and Gear shift would move but was not shifting out of park into other gears, reverse, OD, etc. Would this suggest a cable/linkage break or something more serious? No warning at all, went into park last night just fine.
    Any idieas?
  • kjsmith78kjsmith78 Posts: 1
    I have a 93 Taurus, and the automatic climate control fan no longer operates at variable speeds. It's either off or high speed. It basically only blows in 'auto' and I have to have the fan control knob all the way in the 'high' position. What part of the fan control needs replaced? I heard there's some kind of resistor that might be replaced to fix the problem. Any suggestions?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Sounds like the blower speed control module is defective. Pretty common problem. They're a bit pricey but usually available at recycling yards. It's attached to the AC evaporator housing with 2 screws, access is through the glove box opening after disengaging the stops and letting the glove box door swing down. Make sure the aspirator hose is re-connected to keep it cool.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,564
    Brake safety switch sounds like.

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  • mmaxonmmaxon Posts: 1
    Recently my taurus windows and locks quit working (all of them). My husband and I checked the first obvious thing which was the fuses (being since they are also on the same fuse) but this isn't it.
    The next thing we are wondering is if there could be a hidden fuse someplace or if the master control in the door could be dead.
    Anyone had any experience with this?
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Not to take on Mr. Shiftright on this, but my experience with this problem differs with his answer. I think you lost a simple cotter pin in the linkage like you thought, and it's not hooked up. Your last engagement into park planted it there, before it broke or slipped out. You'll need to get under the car to find it, but it shouldn't be hard to replace UNLESS, it's internal inside the transmission...... Then you're had!!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,564
    Actually you read it more carefully than I did....he DID in fact say that the lever moves, so my suggestion is probably not right. Good catch!

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  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    Probably only because this has happened to me once - but it happened when I was in reverse, so I had backed out of the garage, then it disengaged, and I couldn't move it into drive, I could only move it up into park, which I handily did.
    But as you can imagine, I was right in the middle of the street at that point, stuck, in park! Couldn't go anywhere. Had to wait for a tow truck, which had to draggggg me onto the flatbed and take me to the dealer.
  • smcgrathsmcgrath Posts: 4
    Just bought a 2005 mercury sable gs, has 17,000 mi. Can't seem to get more than 17mpg. Tried injector cleaner, oil/filter change, air filterchange, etc. Any suggestions or known problems? Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,564
    What the city/hwy EPA numbers?

    Check tire pressure for one thing and pump 'em up a few pounds.

    Also, if you use AC you will lose at least 10% fuel mileage.

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  • smcgrathsmcgrath Posts: 4
    EPA on sticker was 19/22MPG. Mostly I drive hiway. Tire pressure o.k. Was having low mileage before it got warm enough to use AC. Thanks!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,564
    Okay so we aren't too far off the mark here...when you say tire pressure okay, you mean you are putting it at what the factory says? How about 1-2 lbs more. Also, when was your last alignment? If the car seems to pull, keep in mind you are actually dragging your tires sideways.

    Also "count your shifts"---make sure the transmission is shifting into overdrive...

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  • smcgrathsmcgrath Posts: 4
    Thanks. I'll try your suggestions tomorrow, and let you know how it goes!
  • smitty24smitty24 Posts: 7
    The charcoal canister is supposed to be on the left side of the vehicle between the front wheel well and the front bumper. But I can't even see it. Is there something to be removed before it can be replaced? Or, do you replace the canister by accessing it from under the car? I am getting a gas smell. I guess I'll start here. Any help would be appreciated. Thanks...
  • raneyraney Posts: 1
    I just had both heads reworked and R&R water pump, spark plugs&wires, cap & rotor on mom's car after she ran it hot and blew both head gaskets. I did all the installation myself.

    The engine has a slight miss at idle but cuts out off and on at high speed. It is like the engine dies and restarts in an instant. The "check engine" light comes on after about 5 minutes of highway travel but clears when engine is turned off.

    I need to know why the check light is coming to hopefully troubleshoot. Any ideas?
    How can I determine why th eligh tis coming on?

    All hoses appear to be on and I can't find any loose connections
  • dpookiedpookie Posts: 1
    Hello, I am having the same problem with my 1995 Mercury Sable as of this morning. I would like to know what is the cause for this problem? And is this a expensive repair also? Please update me about this situation.
  • mechairmechair Posts: 1
    I am trying to remove the transmission of my 98 taurus the book says it will drop out the bottom after separating it from the engine, but it hits on the frame in the left wheel well and will not clear it. anyone know how to remove this thing?
  • zososzosos Posts: 1
    Just need some info on 98 ford taurus transmission. I am planning on replacing the shift c solenoid and the torque converter clutch solenoid. The reason I am doing this is because I had a mechanic hook the OBD II diagnostic computer to it because I had the service engine soon light come one. The codes returned stated that I have problems in this part of the transmission. What does it take to replace these solenoids because right now the overdrive does not work and at idle in drive while stopped, it seems to be engaging and disengaging.
  • mkj2mkj2 Posts: 1
    I have a quick question,i have been quoted $295 to have the radiator replaced on my 92 taurus wagon.This price includes labor,is this reasonable?
  • smcgrathsmcgrath Posts: 4
    I took your suggestions, inflated the tires about 2 lb. above current pressure. Drove about 25 miles today, now climbing to 17.6 mpg. Thanks!!!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 57,564
    Quick more air! more air! (just kidding that was a joke). :P

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  • isellhondasisellhondas Issaquah WashingtonPosts: 19,599
    The short answer is yes. I would have guessed higher.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    You have removed the subframe already, right? If you haven't, the transaxle isn't going to come out. I dno't know which book you're referring to, but here's the R&R procedure:

    Automatic Transaxle Assembly
    Ford Taurus/Sable 1996-1999 Repair Guide

    To remove:
    1. Disconnect both battery cables, negative cable first.
    2. Remove the battery and battery tray. Remove the engine air cleaner assembly.
    3. Detach the transaxle harness and the Transmission Range (TR) sensor connectors.
    4. Remove the shift cable actuator fitting (cable retaining clip) and one retaining nut and disconnect the shift cable from the shift cable bracket on the transaxle.
    5. Disconnect the transaxle cooler lines.
    6. For the 3.0L OHV engines, remove the four upper transaxle-to-engine retaining bolts and one transaxle-to-engine stud.
    7. For the 3.0L and 3.4L (DOHC) engines, remove five transaxle-to-engine retaining bolts.
    8. Install two engine lifting brackets on the engine assembly.
    9. Install a suitable engine support device.
    10. Raise and safely support the vehicle.
    11. Loosen the transaxle oil pan retaining bolts and drain the transaxle fluid into a suitable container.
    12. Remove both front wheel and tire assemblies.
    13. Remove both halfshafts.
    14. Detach the four Heated Oxygen Sensor (HO2S) electrical connectors.
    15. Remove three bolts and seven nuts securing the converter Y-pipe assembly and remove from the vehicle.
    16. Detach the two starter motor connectors, then remove the starter.
    17. Remove one bolt and one stud securing the starter motor and remove the starter motor from the transaxle.
    18. For the OHV engine, remove one bolt and the transaxle housing cover.
    19. Support the rack and pinion assembly using wire attached to the strut and spring assembly to hold it in position. Remove two rack and pinion assembly retaining nuts from the subframe.
    20. Remove two lower control arm-to-ball joint retaining nuts and separate the lower control arms from the steering knuckles and ball joints.
    21. Remove the retaining nuts from the front engine support insulators (mounts) at the subframe.
    22. Remove the sway bar (stabilizer bar) link retaining nuts at each end of the sway bar and separate the links from the sway bar.
    23. Remove the engine and transaxle support insulator through-bolts from the subframe.
    24. Place a suitable transmission jack, using a suitable subframe adapter under the subframe and support the subframe.
    25. Remove the four subframe-to-body retaining bolts. Carefully lower the subframe and set aside.
    26. Place a suitable transmission jack using Adapter 014-00461 or equivalent, under the transaxle and support the transaxle assembly. Secure the transaxle to the transaxle adapter using a strap or chain.
    27. For the OHV engine, remove one lower engine-to-transaxle bolt.
    28. For the DOHC engine, remove the four lower engine-to-transaxle bolts.
    29. Remove the four flywheel-to-torque converter nuts.
    30. Remove three bolts and two nuts securing the rear engine support to the transaxle and remove the rear engine support.
    31. Remove one bolt from the right engine mount brace, then slowly lower the transaxle from the vehicle.

    To install:
    Flush the transaxle cooler lines thoroughly before installing the transaxle assembly.
    32. If removed, place the transaxle assembly on a suitable transmission jack using Adapter 014-00461 or equivalent. Secure the transaxle to the transaxle adapter using a strap or chain.
    33. Slowly raise the transaxle assembly into place. Align the torque converter studs with the appropriate holes in the flywheel and engage the transaxle housing to the engine dowel pins.
    34. Install one bolt in the right engine mount brace and tighten to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).
    35. Install the rear engine support to the transaxle and install three bolts and two nuts. Tighten the bolts and nuts to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).
    36. Install the four flywheel-to-torque converter nuts and tighten to 20-34 ft. lbs. (27-46 Nm).
    37. For the OHV engine, install one lower transaxle-to-engine bolt and tighten to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).
    38. For the DOHC engine, install the four lower transaxle-to-engine bolts and tighten to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm).
    39. Place the subframe on High Lift Transmission Jack 014-00210 or equivalent, using a suitable subframe adapter and raise the subframe into position.
    40. Install the subframe insulators, if removed and loosely install four subframe-to-body bolts.
    41. Install a 3/4 inch (19mm) outside diameter pipe or similar tool into the front left subframe and body alignment holes and align the holes. Slightly tighten the front left subframe-to-body bolt.
    42. Repeat the subframe alignment procedure on the front right subframe and body alignment holes. Slightly tighten the right subframe-to-body bolt.
    43. Check the left alignment holes again and adjust if necessary.
    44. After the subframe alignment is complete, tighten all four subframe-to-body bolts to 57-76 ft. lbs. (77-103 Nm).
    45. Install the remaining components in the reverse order of removal. Tighten the following:
    * Engine and transaxle support insulator-to-subframe bolts to 65-87 ft. lbs. (88-118 Nm)
    * Sway bar link-to-sway bushings and nuts to 35-46 ft. lbs. (47-63 Nm)
    * Rack and pinion-to-subframe nuts to 84-113 ft. lbs. (113-133 Nm)
    * Front engine support insulator-to-subframe nuts to 57-76 ft. lbs. (77-103 Nm)
    * Ball joint-to-lower control arm nuts to 51-67 ft. lbs. (68-92 Nm), using new nuts
    * For the OHV engine: transaxle housing cover bolt to 80-106 inch lbs. (9-12 Nm)
    * Starter motor bolt and stud to 15-21 ft. lbs. (21-29 Nm)
    * Converter Y-pipe three bolts and seven nuts to 26-34 ft. lbs. (34-46 Nm)
    * For the OHV engine: four upper transaxle-to-engine bolts and one upper transaxle-to-engine stud to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm)
    * For the DOHC engine: five transaxle-to-engine bolts to 39-53 ft. lbs. (53-72 Nm)
    * Shift actuator cable fitting nut to 14-19 ft. lbs. (19-26 Nm)
    46. Connect both battery cables, negative cable last.
    47. If the transaxle is empty of transaxle fluid, add several quarts of MERCON or equivalent transaxle fluid to the transaxle.
    48. Start the engine and continue to fill the transaxle until the correct level is reached. Check for leaks and proper operation.

    Whenever the vehicles subframe is removed or lowered, the wheel alignment should be checked.

    49. Check the front end alignment.
    50. Road test the vehicle and check the transaxle for proper operation.
  • I have a 97 Sable that has been very well maintained, the check eng. light came on and I got the code P1744,Tork converter system,the check eng. went off so I relaxed, well maybe to soon that is. It shifts into gear but wont go.into......R. or D,2,1. I would like to fix it myself (save as much $ as possible) if it is fixable, I've never had any problems w/trans. on this car. I've spoken to several shops and they all tell me it needs to be repaired? I cant believe thats the correct answer without looking at it. Could you please direct me in the correct to what the code really means and how I can fix it if it is fixable? Thank you.
  • bigmolbigmol Posts: 1
    My 1998 Ford Taurus hood release cable broke somewhere under the hood. Maybe even at the latch itself. Can't fix it without opening the hood. How can I open the hood without the hood release cable?

    Please help. Has this happened to anyone else?
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