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Taurus/Sable Maintenance & Repair



  • kay10kay10 Posts: 1
    im having trouble locating the flasher on my 1996 Ford Taurus sw. any help would be appriciated.
  • brolubrolu Posts: 3

    I had the wiper transmission replaced yesterday at a Ford dealership. I was quite surprised about the price.... 360$ labour cost (4 hours) and 257$ for the parts. Grand total for replacing the wiper transmission is 709$ including taxes. For me this looks not ok, it can't be that the wiper transmission is worse 5% of a new Ford Taurus. Any idea how this cost in the average?

    Thanks for any feedback
  • millege1millege1 Posts: 4
    Hi! I just had my '97 Taurus at the dealer's for state inspection. Was told that I need to have replaced the front sway bar end links and both front struts. Cost is estimated at at least $500. Car has only 72,000 miles on it. While I know no one can answer me 100%, I'm interested in your opinions: Should I have it fixed? Does it really need it? Is it dangerous if I don't fix it? Should I just trade it in and get a newer car? I did just put $500 into it for rotors and a wheel cylinder.

    This car has had a problem with a shake or shimmy since the day I got it over 6 years ago. Previous dealer tried everything: replaced right front half axle, alignment (which then they said they couldn't complete because they needed to grind down the strut towers-at only 29,000 miles?!) It's fixed for a while and then it comes back.

    I like the car, but is it reaching the point where it's going to be one thing after another? :confuse:
  • nvbankernvbanker Posts: 7,285
    My cousin runs Tauri over 300,000 miles consistently, and he's on his third one. His state inspection (Utah) has never raised an issue about this stuff. I think your car may have been damaged prior to your ownership. I'd trade it.
  • millege1millege1 Posts: 4
    Thanks for the advice! I've had the feeling that it was damaged since 3 months after I bought it. Still, it's been a good car. I should have known better when, one time I took it to the dealer I bought it from with the same old complaint about the shakes and they told me it was because of all the "Pennsylvania potholes." Yeah, right.
  • taurusttaurust Posts: 1
    The rear driver side rear brake on my 92 Ford Taurus GL overheated and melted the hub cab.The ABS light came on and would not go out. My brakes became spongy and I eventually had to replace the caliper, pad and rotor. I tried to bleed the brakes on all four wheels but I could not get any fluid (or vacuum) on the rear calipers. I replaced the rear brake proportioning valve, but nothing changed. I have a one-man vacuum pump for brakes, but when I hook it up to the bleeder valve in the rear, I can not get the pressure to come up( like I can on the front calipers).It's as though there is a leak somewhere. The ABS light is still on.

    Are talking about a bad master cylinder ( or is there something called an ABS pump on the Taurus)?
    Could it be the brake booster?
    Can the ABS master cylinder be replaced by a home mechanic?
  • Hello everyone. I just had my front brake pads replaced today and the rear drums adjusted/cleaned. The new pads are supposedly Motorcraft OEM pads. The problem that I am having is that the brake pedal travel has not decreased since they've been replaced AND the brakes are slow to stop the car. I had a close call today and called the shop and they said that Motorcraft parts use a "harder ceramic" material that needs about 100 miles of wear-in before they work well.
    Is this really the case, or am I getting the runaround?

    Thanks for any help!
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Are talking about a bad master cylinder.
    Probably not
    is there something called an ABS pump on the Taurus
    Yes, but it has nothing to do with your symptoms.
    Could it be the brake booster?
    Can the ABS master cylinder be replaced by a home mechanic?
    Depends on how good he is

    The root cause might be a rear flex hose collapsed internally, preventing fluid flow. Common on that era Taurus/Sable. For the ABS light, an ABS capable scan tool is required to retrieve the stored diagnostic trouble codes.
  • vppcvppc Posts: 58
    Hello, everyone!

    I have a 2001 SES w/Vulcan V6. It has 73,000 miles and I think it is pinging. When I accelerate, especially uphill, it makes a sound. Do those fuel system cleaners work well? If so, what brand should I get? I have seen Prestone, Gumout, STP, Slick 50, and Chevron. All about $5 each.

    Also, do those engine cleaners work? I want to keep my car in the best running condition as long as I can.

    - Alex
  • lena2lena2 Posts: 1
    Hello, well my car will not start,befor that actually happen,the car got so hot that it blew off the radiator cap. any suggestions. :cry:
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,347
    If you are actually pinging, it is possible your cylinders are heavily carbonized and perhaps an additive might help....but that rather depends on the additive and on how much carbon you have in there.

    Basically the carbon buildup raises the compression ratio a bit. To see if you are actually pinging, you should put in a tank of the highest octane you can find and see if the pinging goes away.

    A little pinging is okay but if the engine does it more or less all the time, that's a bad thing.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    my 99 has 47k on it all old lady driven.. steering wheel is starting to wiggle back and forth at low speeds cant really feel; it on the freeway although do need to get rotors (this is another wheel shaker) cv? rack? ideas j :)
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright CaliforniaPosts: 57,347
    If the wheel wiggles when you apply the brakes, that's warped rotors or a bent wheel...if it happens without touching the brakes, then you probably have a wheel balance problem, a tire out of round or a bent wheel. CV joints cause vibration but not a wheel wiggle

    You should have this checked right away if the wheel wiggle is severe.

    MODERATOR --Need help with anything? Click on my name!

  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    not the rotors it will doing coasting uphill or down hill and is most notable at speeds at speeds up to 40 .. and it is a has original tires still have life on them although i do need rotors am somewhat of a mechanic............ not severe enough to scare me yet it is just annoying and just started did i say it was constant? :) thanks for the reply it is still a sweet car got it with 30 on it the guy i got it from died and he was like a said kid gloves
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    If the steering wheel saws back and forth at very low speed there's probably a bent wheel or tire belt shifted.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    thanks ill let you know ...... :) maybe my daughter hit somthing and is not telling me
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    the tire is going bad thanks one less headache to worry about
  • rfmerrowrfmerrow Posts: 2
    My mother has a 1995 Mercury Sable GL 3.0L with about 67,xxx miles on it. Today, while driving, it cut out on her with no warning. No sputtering, no choking, nothing. She was able to get it restarted, but then it did it again. She said there were no dummy lights on the dashboard. This makes me think something electrical, possibly an alternator, or the sensor on the side of the distributor. Any ideas? I'm puzzled. :confuse: Thanks in advance.

  • millege1millege1 Posts: 4
    I once drove an Escort wagon that did the same thing to me. Was told there's a fuel sensor switch (?) that needed to be reset. As I recall, it was in the cargo section of the wagon, and all that you needed to do was push the button on top to reset it. I think it had to do with if the car rolled over, the fuel pump shut off.

    Don't know if that's your mom's car's problem or not. :confuse:
  • I have a 1993 Sable GS Sedan, and I am trying to put an aftermarket deck inside of it. I cant seem to find out how to get the old one out and how to get the ashtray on below that off. If anyone knows how, please reply with some hints.
  • I have a 1993 Sable GS Sedan, and I am trying to put an aftermarket deck inside of it. I cant seem to find out how to get the old one out and how to get the ashtray on below that off. If anyone knows how, please reply with some hints.
  • jameevjameev Posts: 1
    We're in the middle of replacing the rotors and brake pads, both front and rear. The front was no problem at all, the rear has us stumped. We cannot get the caliper piston to release. Tried bleeding the brakes, didn't help. We have the same problem with both on the rear. Is there something we're missing?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    The rear calipers have the parking brake mechanism built in, and the pistons have to be rotated clockwise to thread them back down the internal jack screws while pushing on them. Make sure the boots don't stick to the pistons or they'll tear, WD40 works well there. Also make sure the notches in the pistons are positioned to line up with the tabs on the back of the brake pads.

    Larger auto supply houses usually have the piston retractor tool set available for loan, looks like this:

    This also works on most but not as convenient to use:
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Should be 2 small holes on each side of the radio. Ford has a special tool set to go in there to release the spring clips on each side, but 2 pieces of coat hanger each bent into a U shape should work. Insert them and lever the ends outward to release the clips.
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    well am not sure what the deal is its a fairly new car 47k and have seen this before but i cant remember where.. the heater does not blow heat anymore.. like i read somwhere else it did... and now it dont dont need it for a couple a more months .. and also have not ever changed the coolant.. does anybody? would appreciate any ideas fore i start rummying around j.. :D ps the ac works lol lol
  • lyneman2lyneman2 Posts: 33
    3.0 no overhead
  • badgerfanbadgerfan Posts: 1,565
    Does the temperature gauge move up into the normal range? If this gauge does not, then you could have a bad thermostat which is not allowing coolant temperature to come up to operating temperature.

    Otherwise, it could be a bad valve that lets warm coolant into the heater core, or a plugged heater core, or an electrical problem in the dash control.

    If coolant has never been changed, I would go in and get a coolant flush and fill and also tell them your symptoms of no heat.

    I am surprised you notice it at all in the summertime, or did you live with this when it was cold out as well?
  • pzhengpzheng Posts: 2
    I have exactly problem as your speedometer ! Could you give me some help as soon as possible !

    -------------> Original message :
    I was wondering if you've found anything out, I've been having similar problems with my 1996 , I've noticed that it is linked to the car running hot, while the car is cool it runs great once it's hot...The speedomoter stops working and the engine doesn't want to respond to the accelerator. It feels like it gets stuck in gear sometimes and the power steering cuts in and out. But Like I Said only when it gets hot, when It starts acting up I turn the heat on high and it stops after a few minutes. No problems with the lights yet.. Feel free to respod to my email directly or post here, my email is thanks
  • rfmerrowrfmerrow Posts: 2
    The radio is pretty straightforward, as far as Ford's go. If your current radio is the OEM radio, there should be two holes on each side of the face of the deck, one on top of the other and spaced approximately an inch and a half apart. There are special tools that you can purchase pretty much anywhere that sells audio equipment. You push the tools into the holes, (when you see the tools, you'll see that this part is pretty much self explanatory), and when they latch into place, you just pull the deck out. The OEM radio that was in my 92 Ranger was like this, as was the radio in my mom's 94 Topaz and her current 95 Sable. As for the ashtray, I'm not really certain. With my Ranger, you pull the ashtray out, and there's a metal tab in the center of the ashtray, on the top. You pry that out (down toward the ashtray) and the ashtray itself should slide free. As I said, though, I'm not sure about the cars. Good luck!
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