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We tried changing the alternator,spark plugs,fuel pump, and another sensor but nothing has worked yet. The local ford dealership said they were unsure this time but thought it maybe my computer board. Once I got my care to roll far enough to get out of the car wash, I restarted it and it would not let me accelerate,so I put the car in drive and let it roll to a safer spot. The car continued to run in park but after about 5min it started running hot and all the radiator fluid starting coming out, one of my battery post corroded, and now the battery light stays on! Tell me whats wrong?
http://www.thetorquereport.com/2008/01/mulally_announces_that_a_new_f.html
The current Ford Taurus, which was a refresh of the slow selling Ford Five-Hundred has failed to meet expectations. Ford addressed many of the issues the Five-Hundred had, except for the overly bland styling. The styling changes that Ford applied to the new model have not attracted the audience Ford was looking for. The new Taurus should address these issues.
Thanks
Thanks
It also idles ruff & is hard to start. If there is a mechanic that could give me some advise that would be of major help.
P.s they tried for a second time to buy my car for realy cheep. first time was with a sunfire. I dont think so.that made me suspitious.
Probably too late to be of help, but maybe it will help others...
The Taurus had know head gasket problems to the extent that Ford put a program into place to reimburse people for head gasket repairs out of warranty (a court settlement I believe). I have no idea if the program is expired, but it might be worth checking with a Ford dealer if your head gasket blows.
Next thing... as far as your car not wanting to run... your car's computer is very sensitive, and if the electronics are not just right it will act like you describe - start but not have enough juice to move. If your battery starts going bad your alternator will work overtime trying to keep it charged and will kill itself in the process. If your car has to run on the battery alone it will run like what you describe. Change them both out at the same time.
Hey, just throwing out ideas here, hope it works though still not sure about why the overheating. Best of luck... k
So let me guess... the bad news either made them wealthy in repair fees or it convinced you to look at their selection of new or used cars while you were there. If you bought one from them, wouldn't it have been interesting to learn how much money they had to put into fixing up your old car - once they got it from you for a song (after telling you it needed a new engine I don't guess they gave you much for a trade in).
I know this is late in coming, but for those who read this post later... I had a friend with a newer Bronco. It started running a bit rough so he took it to our local Ford Dealership in Titusville, FL (you know who you are). They gave it the once over and gave him an estimate of $5,800 to make it run right.
After my friend woke up on the floor after his heart attack, he drove it home and that weekend took it to a friend of his who worked at a Ford Dealership in Georgia. The Bronco needed less than $100 dollars in parts and it ran as good as new. So don't you believe everything you're told even if you're at what should be a reputable repair shop (especially a new or used car dealer where you're going to pay through the nose anyway). Buyer beware.
I changed the battery and the cables, but still it lights up.
Any Ideas??
Would this have to do with alternator??
2001 Ford Taurus SE
Also,
Serpentine belt had been squeeking, so I replaced that at same time as battery and cables..
My interlocking front stabilizer bar is loose. I did talk to the dealership and they said to replace it and then I talked to someone else and they said that it could be tightened and another mechanic told me it wasn't actually needed and to ignore it. What should I actually do about it?
:confuse:
Here is the repairs that I have had since the car rolled off the lot, minus battery / tires / routine maintenance:
date odometer repair
6/10/2005 60306 Transaxle Seals
8/7/2006 79919 Transmission clogged
2/6/2007 89649 front stabilizers, struts, coils
2/6/2007 89642 rear break service, washer service, stabilizers
4/4/2007 94999 tie rod, ball bearings
4/10/2007 95288 front spring coils (recall)
10/22/2007110142 rear drums replaced
5/29/2008 124963 Serpentine belt, upper and lower hoses replaced
7/17/2008 129900 new front struts (does not include new tire)
A few obvious things -
- I drive a car, I don't know how to fix it.
- Either a dealership or a Goodyear Gemini Car care facility have touched it.
- Lots of highway driving - probably 85% of the miles are highway....
- Odo currently reads 129931.
- OEM parts still in place include alternator, starter, and fuel pump
My questions:
- is this "typical" wear and tear?
- Since end of warranty, almost $3,700 was spent on repairs (not maintenance, such as oil changes, tire rotations, etc.). All of these repairs, except for the clogged transmission, were "pre-emptive" where the tech strong suggested that this be addressed. This seems high, but I do not know...
For what it is worth, I have never had the car break down because the maintenance has been steady, and the repairs were done to prevent a failure that would halt the car.
Thanks for your thoughts!
Michael
Breaks, BTW are spelled Brakes.
Sounds like you give your car what it needs, and it costs something to keep a car in top notch running condition. Deferred maintenance would have allowed you to extend some of those repairs, like the seals, the struts, stabilizers, shocks, belts, etc., but then you'd have one of those cars that is in the wrecking yard at 125,000.
3.0 Bank 2 Sensor 2 Where is it?
So for anyone having an impossible to trace alarm problem on a 96/97 Taurus, check the rubber stop on the drivers side front corner of the hood.
Thank you!
Today I found that the serpentine belt tensioner pulley axle is vibrating against one of the A/C lines when the engine is idling in Drive. I was told that it doesn't make this noise when cruising on the road, and it doesn't make it when idling in Neutral or Park. This seems to indicate engine mount problems and I would appreciate comments or information which will lead me to a proper diagnosis.
I am a retired mechanic and will probably repair this myself, providing I am able to get some guidance to any specific instructions I need. I'll buy a repair manual if I must, but would prefer something on line. I know generally, but am not familiar with this car (yet).
Thanks for whatever help you can offer,
bullybear
An engine lift is recommended to change one of the mounts. Which mount is this, and is it possible to change it without a lift (work-around using jacks)?
Thanks!
I would disconnect the battery, and lock the car up manually. It'll be safe and secure until you come home, unlock it with the key, raise the hood, and re-connect the battery. You should be fine. That's about all you can do.
I notice you mention the belt is "vibrating" and not just rubbing, so you may also take a look at the belt tensioner.