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Air Conditioning

what type refridgeration does a 93 cougar use?
is it the older type or the new 22
is it the older type or the new 22
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if you have an R12 system and lost freon, get in touch with a quality automotive ac shop, they will thoroughly test for leaks and repair accordingly, and refill with R12
dont let anyone tell you R12 is no longer around
it is still available through ac shops, but is no longer being produced. R12 is expensive but if your ac system is in good shape, no crap in the system then just have the leak fixed and refilled.
to learn more about ac system conversion go to www.delanet.com this guy has his own ac service shop for 25 yrs and hs a lot of info and guidance on his web site.
i learned the hard way, had my 92 nissan stanza converted to 134a for $150 'cause i had a r12 leak, local guy said it was a straight conversion no problem, i wound up with a clog in the thermo expansion valve/evaporator, which had to be changed out, because i could not service the valve and it is an integral parts of the evaporator. the dealer service tech said that in a conversion to 134a the condensor is too small for 134a and that now i must baby the ac system, because the condensor can not cool the 134a quick enough.
a large tree most of the day (100 degrees cooler as I go home). My question is, quite a few times have found lots of small leafs around the windshield area. Will this be a problem clogging
the A/C over a period of time???
Another, different problem you want to take care to avoid is having your car's drainage system clog up. This is the system that allows water to go off the windshield into the "vents" at the base of the windshield, through the car, and down to the street below, ususally via a hole at the base of the car's frame. Leaves that get stuck in this drainage system can cause water to get trapped in the frame of your car, where it'll swish around and sometimes find its way into the car.
like that I'll still stay cool. It makes a big
difference even with tinted windows.
After the compressor is repaired the Toyota manual specifies a procedure that must be followed to ensure the entire system is dry, how much a charge it needs, etc. One mechanic I saw was doing it the same way with every vehicle, and adding the same charge to them all, obviously not right. When it comes to air, stick with Toyota. I bet that repairman did not do things correctly.
Those metal slots right in front of the windshild are where the air comes in, clean them out, and you should be fine.
any ideas: vacuum tube leak, evaporator, leaves??
about the have it checked out; the a/c cools fine and comes out in every vent combination
Yes, anyone can buy it over the shelf. That's what I ended up doing with my Camry. I trust no Toyota mechanic yet except myself, and I'm a computer geek.
I READ IN CONSUMER REPORT THE CAR MFG IN CANADA EXTENED THE WARRANTY. I DON'T KNOW IF THEY HAVE DONE THE SAME IN THE STATES.
Thanks!
-cr
Thanks.
-Kent
I checked A/C compressor clutch. It works fine when it was turned on and off. That means the clutch works. When the A/C is on and the temperature reaches the setting point, the clutch should be off. However, the clutch on my van keeps on and off at a rate of 2 ~ 3 times per second. It looks to me that the controller is confused near the setting point (temperature). Is it a sensor or computer (logical circuit) problem?
Thanks.
#30> There's a sensor that detects how much refrigerant you've got in your system. Usually the sensor is hooked up to the receiver-drier (at least it is on the models I work on). It's possible that the sensor is bad, or that you're right on border of having not enough refrigerant so that maybe the sensor is sensing enough and then too little. It seems more likely that you've got a bad sensor or something is wrong with the wiring or mechanism that controls the compressor switching on/off.
Good luck
Gus
Conference Host
It looks to me a temperature sensor problem since it works when A/C was initially turned on. After a while (when the temperature reaches the setting point), the clutch started on and off oscillation at high frequency. So, where is the temperature sensor? Is it monitoring the coolant in the heater core?
-Kent
Sold all my vehicles that use it.
Mbuckholz@yahoo.com
Biggest problem I have found w/retrofit is size of condenser core is to small & not enough air flow over condenser in some autos.
Neighbor bought a do-it your self kit at wal-mart, I recommended not to try it. He insisted, after recovering the R12, he installed per/instructions, has held for 2 years. Go figure!
I have found condensers plugged with bugs, evaporators pluged with leaves, plastic shopping bag & I even found a well worn out coke can sitting on the top of the heater blower squirrel cage. The list goes on!
You can check the easy things your self, beyond that, call the professional.
I am sure someone will want it.
Ooooh. Beer money for a long time!
Feel free to write
mbuckholz@yahoo.com
User Agreement
This "auction of sorts" does have some entertainment value, so I am leaving it up for now.
Please remember your User Agreement in the future.
Thanks,
Your Host, Bruce
Thanks for the reminder, Bruce. ;o)
I have the car up for sale and would replace the clutch if I can. Otherwise I guess I will have to go as-is. Just need advise as what to do.
Pat
if a/c is not on, no jerk.
if a/c is on and no cooling fan startups(like early morning) - no jerks when the a/c comes on and off.
can anyone tell me what the problem is?
kind of warm today, 65F, so I turned the AC on. As it turned out,
there was no refrigerant in the car! So I took it to the dealer who
added CFC-free whatever and looked 25 minutes for a leak with
no success. They said they tried some flourescent dye or something.
Can I try to see this gas dye myself?? With a black light??
So now I have AC, but I am still worried--once an AC system leaks,
it NEVER stops!
Does the car ship from Japan with refrigerant or is that a dealer
add-in at the port?
Driving home, I hear fluid swishing sounds from behind the dash when the
AC is on. I have no example of how loud the GS HVAC system is, but
this noise was pretty loud--much louder than my old ES300. Is this an
indication of low refrigerant again? Or is this swishing noise normal for the GS?
Also, under the hood, by the radiator I see a round window into the refrigerant
piping. Back in the old days (of my 78 Chrysler LeBaron) if you looked into this
window after the AC has been running in steady state, you are not supposed to
see bubbles if the refrigerant level was Full. Well I saw TONS of foamy bubbles and
sometimes larger bubbles go by with the AC on. Anyone with a GS Repair Manual
that can tell me what is "normal" for this car?
Well I guess I'll drive it and if there is a leak, eventually it will become noticeable.
What if the leak is in the evaporator and is refrigerant is getting into the car????!!!
What does the new CFC-free stuff smell like? What would my symptoms be if this
were happening?
Thank you all very much,
FCW
Big old diesel's that have lots of rotational inertia will hardly "jerk" at all. Little engines will "jerk" with more significance.