Don't even bother keeping r12 system. Your repair parts are available at most auto parts stores. Have your system discharged, replace leaking parts with new 134 compatible parts yourself,[it's not really that hard],keep your work and connections dry and clean. Then return to A/C shop, have them vacuum system COMPLETELY, and charge with correct amount of R134. Been there, done that.
My Taurus wgn (3.0l V6) has NO refrigerant left in it. A slow leak over the winter is to blame. Dealer wnats $1500 for repairs (6 months guarantee only) independant shop quotes 1200$!. The car (1990) may live for 3 to 4 yrs more. I've heard that R134 is available without permit and so the question is How do I go about recharging the AC. Is it straightforward DIY job or I should let the pros handle it? Is there a stratagy to get the biggest bang for the buck. Any info will be welcome to tackle the SC heat. Thankyou
I have a 1991 LS400 w/ 160,000 miles and have just started to have A/C problems. The dealer put in freon (needed quite a bit) and a dye. It appears that I have a leak at a seal on the top of the compressor.
Dealer #1 recommends replacing the compressor along w/ a number of other A/C componeets. His explanaiton being that those other componenets may fail soon as well or prob need replacing given 10 years of use. Probably a $2100 job.
Dealer #2 told me awhile back to keep an eye on the A/C. She said if I ever felt the air turn warm and/or heard a noise shut down the A/C ASAP. She stated that the noise indicated a failing compressor. A failing compresor can send bits and pieces of itself throughoput the system, thus $$$$.She said if I caught it early enough I could save some money by just replacing the compressor ~$1100. (I think I managed to catch it early on.)
Several independent A/C mechanics also told me to just replace the compressor with a new one. One strongly recommended against a rebuilt compressor saying that they are generally unsatisfactory, i.e.do not blow either cold enough or strong enough for what Lexus owners are used to.
Finally, one independent mechanic tells me that he can just replace the leaking seal on the original compressor. The seal is on top of the compressorand seems to be a major leakage point. This is relatively inexpensive to do. A couple hours labor.
At this point I am inclined to go the cheap route first and try just replacing the compressor seal. Has anyone tried this?
However, I am also wondering....now even though my "good" condition replacing it w/a new one, instead of just changing the seal, may be a long term benefit.(Perhaps other parts of the compressor may fail?)
Any experiences w/ A/C on the LS400? I understand that it is a common problem. How did you resolve it and was it satisfactory?
shekharpatel;The job of recharging your A/C system is better left to someone who has the equipment for it.To do the job correctly,the leak must be found first and repaired or you will be redoing it every year.Then the system must be drawn down with a vacuum and oil and refrigerant added,if you do not do this correctly,there is a possibility of blowing out a hose,compressor or the refrigerant canister and often the blow out is violent.I would suugest getting numerous quotes and asking what your options are.Check with local parts stores for mechanics who do the work on the side(they may be more reasonably priced).
bbob4;Since you have a leak at the compressor,the entire system has become contaminated,and that is not good.More than likely,you will need to replace the condensor already,along with the compressor.Any time you do not have the system entirely cleaned and the condensor replaced,you take a chance on recontaminating the entire system and creating problems down the line.
Your Toyota has what is called a receiver drier. I recomed that any time the A/C system is opened, the reciever drier should be considered for replacement. You mentioned replacement of the expansion valve. This valve most commonly fails machanically or plugs with failed descant from the receiver drier. It will cost more to do the job right, but it is better then having to do it again, & again.
Same sad story here, all-of-a-sudden the A/C on my 1991 Lexus is gone and dealer wants $2,000 to "fix" it. On top of that, he wants another $1,000 to "fix" power steering leak that is contaminating alternater. All this within 30 days of my very expensive 90,000 mile service. Rather then spend the money, I'm thinking of simply trading for a convertible. But, everything I look at is less of a car then my Lexus. On a trade, in current condition, they are offering $6-7K. Oh, my question: To put $3,000 into this old Lexus with 100K miles, or say good-bye?
Something is wrong with $2000. to repair your A/C. And A $1000. for power steering? Find a well recommended independent (trustworthy) shop(s) & get a different opinion(s). It does not have to go back to the dealer. Good luck!
The air in my 2000 Durango isn't getting very cold. I measured the air temp at the center vent with the system on high. I was 50 degrees f. The outside air temp was 70 degrees at that time. Any information would be appreciated before I go to the dealer.
if there are no stickers under the hood, how can you tell it's been converted.
I just bought a 91 Mercedes which should have had R-12 in its system, but the dealer I bought it from said it has been converted and at the time of purchase the A/C wasn't very cool, which he said he'll take care of, by charging the system.
he did and the A/C is working very well. I don't have any record showing any repair history, etc. I just need to know if the actual fittings for R-12 and 134a are different as well for future reference.
The fittings ARE different for the precise reason that you definitely DO NOT want to mix the two. They are incompatible fluids and the lubricating oil that is also circulating in the system is different, too.
So, no chance of your service provider messing it up and adding the wrong refrigerant...
Often there are crossover parts with Toyota that will fit your Lexus. I replaced my entire HVAC system in my 1990 LS400 for $838.78 + $400 in labor from my mechanic who took the time to completely blow out all the lines and install the parts. I believe I saved myself a minimum of $700 on this one. Sad to say the owner before had ALSO replaced the HVAC. In general I have been VERY dissapointed with this vehicle. There seems to be a number of design flaws in this vehicle.(I have replaced PS pump, rack and pinion assembley, water pump and the R&L control arms.) The A/C thing really burned me up.(no pun intended.) I went through Lexus Corp Customer service and they were of NO assistance.
I own a 1995 Toyota 4Runner SR5, V6,2WD w/188,000mi. This has been a great vehicle but recently has developed an A/C problem. The A/C stops blowing cold after a short time and acts as if it has "frozen" up. After experimenting I've discovered the A/C will blow cold for longer periods when it's in the recirculating setting rather than fresh air setting. Someone mentioned to me the possibility of needing an expansion valve. Does anyone else have this A/C problem? I could use every and all responses to this problem as I'd like to get the A/C working to new specs.
My huband's 98 F150 has air that blows very cold and very strong. However it recently began blowing out of the wrong vents (on top by the windshield rather than the air vents). He took it to our local lube & oil who charged to diagnose the problem only to say it had to go to the dealership to figure it out. At 40K mi. we are out of warranty but I say a real air conditioning shop could diagnose the problem without the expense of the dealership. Being in Arizona, I can't argue with him for to long about the benefits of shopping around to save money on his air conditioning repair. Any advice/experience would be appreciated.
Probably not related because it's been a problem for much longer, but the check engine light has been on for some time with no obvious problems found.
I have a 1997 Explorer with automatic temperature control. I have taken the car back to the dealer 3 times and they keep telling me it's working properly. The problem-if the air is set max a/c works fine, cold air any temperature setting. If set on auto air cold air to 69 degrees. After 69 degrees it blows hot air, it feels like the heater is blowing. The dealer says at 70 degrees the blender door opens and allows hot air to mix with cold air and this is normal. I'm in Florida. The car is hot when I get in, I understand an a/c blows warm air until the car cools off (for a few minutes) but the hot air never stops coming out of the vents. My grandmother has a Mercury that doesn't work this way. Does anyone have a Ford that blows hot air when the a/c is set on automatic temperature control.
I've heard you can substitute or mix freeze-12 with R-12. my mechanic says the freeze-12 is legal, but you need an A/C license to purchase. the cooling power is much better than 134A.
#0 of 2: 89 cadi elec. problem (raally) Tue 06 Jun '00 (06:13 PM)
I have a 89 Cadillac Seden Deville frt wheel dr, 4.5 liter. At intermittin times when I turn on the a/c sometimes it works fine and other times when the a/c compressor turns on it blows the 25amp fuse which also diables the digital dashboard and the electronic climate control. I replaced the a/c comp. relay thinking that will help, but to no avail. Is this a problem with the a/c clutch coil or wiring? What is a good way to check it out?
I would take it to a mechanic to check it out. If the a/c system needs work, then a shop will have the appropiate tools and equipment to deal with the freon, etc. Sound like the compressor or related component is going bad.
any idea on the conversion kits sold in car magazines for around $50 for converting to 134 from R-12? it comes with the hose, 3 cans of 134a, leak stop/conditioner, oil, and some other things.
I just let the R-12 out and start filling with these? is there any cross contamination, or any compatibility issues?
There is a problem with the two links that include the &Z parameter, however. You need to delete the &z and everything to the right of it when you post a link, otherwise it will only work for you. And for some reason, the &q=0- in the first one doesn't work correctly for me (although I think it should).
Ataie, here are the topics that bobs5 found for you:
Thank you for the information regarding the problem with the link. You now know that I am no computer guru. I feel more like the ape standing next to the monolith regarding computer programming and such. Ha ha have a nice day
Do automatic A/Cs not get as cold as the "manual" ones? My 99 Maxima automatic air will only cool to 40 degrees from the center vent when at 60 mph on a hot day. (recirc is on recirc) My old 94 Camry puts out 35 degree air even when going slow around town. does the automatic one bleed in hot water?
I have a 92 Lesabre with 52,000 miles, while driving with the A/C on and the fan on setting #2 all of a sudden the fan starts blowing full blast. I shut the car off and the fan is still blowing full blast. I disconnected the neg. battery terminal to stop the fan. Any ideas to what could be the problem?
The air conditioner on my wife's '91 Corolla suddenly stopped working. Mechanik diagnosed it as having a leak in the drier and quoted more than $600 to have it fixed. Is this part is so expensive or is it so labor-intensive? Can I get this part from a junk yard? Will it work OK, or will it leak by the end of the summer?
I have a '92 LS400 and I just started gettting that "compressor whine." My freon was also empty just before this problem arose. I had it filled by a friend (mechanic)and the rest is history. I haven't taken the car to Lexus yet, but know they'll tell me the compressor needs to be replaced. So far that's all I've heard about problems with this model. The guys at Lexus (not where I bought it) tell me it'll run past well past 300,000 miles before needing any major engine or transmission work. I have a neighbor that just replaced his compressor on his '95 LS400, so it looks (for you and I) that things coulda been worse...if we had his luck, this would be our second time replacing the compressor. If it's any "relief" to you, my neighbor has had no problems after just replacing the compressor...didn't replace "everything else" as it seems someone has advised you to do. I'm not going to replace anything that isn't giving me problems...no matter what those money hungry Lexus guys tell me...hahaha!
Can anyone help give us some suggestions on how to increase the air flow in my a/c in my 1976 Corvette? The air is hardly coming out at all.......... ...........My husband normally can fix anything on this car but he asked me to ask the experts here for help. He is baffled.............
I suppose that there are few "experts" when it comes to a/c systems. There is little that a shadetree mechanic can do with a/c systems as there is specialized equipment which is required to deal with freon, etc. I believe that a mechanic needs special training and/or license to work on a/c. This is one of the areas that is better to bring to a mechanic for service.
"Question after question with few answers in between" This could be a result of lack of actual experience with a particular vehicle or problematic condition.
I am no "expert" but will take a stab at some of these previous posts.
Edwardh1 - I believe that the difference in the cooling degrees of the 99 and 94 model cars has to do with different refrigerants which are used: 94 model probably uses r-12, 99 model probably used the new r-134. r-12 stuff cools better. The degrees that you noticed are correct for properly working systems.
this is nascar - about 35-45 degrees output from vents.
trex8888 - if this condition exists on only this particular fan setting, I would "assume" it would be a bad switch or fan motor.
olegphil - the price of the drier is probably being quoted at dealer's price. Perhaps a car parts store could get it for less? I personally would not use a salvage yard part in the a/c system, as it could be contaminated (rust or dirt) or defective. Get other price quotes if you think $600 is unreasonable.
bew1219 - "compressor whine" could be a bearing going bad in the a/c compressor.
tamatha - "lack of airflow" - many things can be the cause of this condition....bad fan; clogged vents or airways (if this car has sitting for awhile there could be a mouse's nest plugging up the works); or the dampers (the vacuum controlled devices which activates doors in the ventilation system that direct airflow) are malfunctioning.
Thats why I read as much as possible on these boards... to learn. What bugs me sometimes is when someone posts a problem and then never returns with how their situation was resolved. oh well
Thanks! I don't think that my mechanik is gouging the price. I just don't want to put $600 into a car with 129K and 3 minor fender benders on it. Though, if there a chance to fix it at, say $300, I would do it.
Thanks for the help but both 94 and 99 cars use 134 so the refrigerant is the same.The 94 toyota will freeze you out even on a 100+ degree day dispelling the rumor that 134 will not cool. the 94 (manual system) runs the compressor til the evaporator reaches a very cold setting like a house A/C. I was wondering if the automatic systems operated differently, like by modulating hot water flow to allow a slower approach to cabin temp. The 99 automatic does not cool nearly as fast as the 94 does. I may have the dealer check it at the 15000 mile check up.
* 89 Honda CRX - takes a while, but then cools good (R-12) * 91 Mercedes 300SE - not too impressed (R-12) * 95 Maxima - cools good after about 5 minutes (134a) * 96 VW GTI - Ice cold (134a)
all above vehicles (specially CRX and 300SE) have been checked by A/C mechanic and both are fully charged and mechanically sound. I live in Dallas Texas so I would say if the A/C can pass the test here with 100 degree temp and high humidity, then it'll work anywhere.
From all the cars I've had (about 40-50 in that past 20 years), the best A/C I've seen has been the Audi and VW (Golf/Jetta). They just freeze you out.
My limited experience with German cars has been that AC is poor. The BMW QC manager was quoted as saying the the 1993 or so and earlier BMWs ACs were undersised by 30 % and the evaporators were increased by that much in the mid 90s. They must have missed the mark initially, but then its not hot in Germany like in the US.
Thanks for your advice.................very much appreciated............anyone else out there has any suggestions on where I should look?????????????? I will have my husband check those out that you gave me.
Are you saying you get no airflow from anywhere but the defroster vents?
If so, you can use the "Jump" box or "scroll" choices at the top of this page under the Topic title to check out post #94. Bobs5 was responding to a similar problem posted by Tamatha in post #91.
OTOH, if that's not what you meant, you might want to clarify for the group.
Pat Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
Do you know of a Replacement A/C Fan Motor with a higher RPM than the stock that I could replace my 1976 corvette with? The one that the manufacturer calls for does not have enough RPM and I was wondering if anyone out there has heard of another fan motor that I may be able to use instead.
Did this low air volume condition suddenly occur? Do you hear the fan running? Does the fan change speeds properly? Does the air flow change when the selector is used (vent,defrost,panel,feet,etc.)?
A bad ground for the fan could also have a weird effect.
I don't know if it is possible on this model, but could the fan blades have become separated from the fan motor?
The only other thing I can think of is some kind of obstruction to the air intake (plugged filter?) or in the ductwork (plugged with leaves?)
Comments
http://www.aircondition.com
started to have A/C problems. The dealer put in
freon (needed quite a bit) and a dye. It appears
that I have a leak at a seal on the top of the compressor.
Dealer #1 recommends replacing the compressor
along w/ a number of other A/C componeets. His
explanaiton being that those other componenets may
fail soon as well or prob need replacing given 10
years of use. Probably a $2100 job.
Dealer #2 told me awhile back to keep an eye on
the A/C. She said if I ever felt the air turn
warm and/or heard a noise shut down the A/C ASAP. She stated that the noise indicated a failing
compressor. A failing compresor can send bits and
pieces of itself throughoput the system, thus
$$$$.She said if I caught it early enough I could save some money by just replacing the compressor
~$1100. (I think I managed to catch it early on.)
Several independent A/C mechanics also told me to
just replace the compressor with a new one. One
strongly recommended against a rebuilt compressor
saying that they are generally unsatisfactory,
i.e.do not blow either cold enough or strong enough for what Lexus owners are used to.
Finally, one independent mechanic tells me that he can just replace the leaking seal on the original compressor. The seal is on top of the compressorand seems to be a major leakage point. This is relatively inexpensive to do. A couple hours labor.
At this point I am inclined to go the cheap route
first and try just replacing the compressor seal.
Has anyone tried this?
However, I am also wondering....now even though my
"good" condition replacing it w/a new one, instead of just changing the seal, may be a long term benefit.(Perhaps other parts of the compressor may fail?)
Any experiences w/ A/C on the LS400? I understand
that it is a common problem. How did you resolve
it and was it satisfactory?
Thanks in advance.
bbob4;Since you have a leak at the compressor,the entire system has become contaminated,and that is not good.More than likely,you will need to replace the condensor already,along with the compressor.Any time you do not have the system entirely cleaned and the condensor replaced,you take a chance on recontaminating the entire system and creating problems down the line.
Do anyone in here know that If I replace a expansion valve on my AC system for a Toyoto, should I also replace the "dryer" or "driver" as well.
Thanks,
Ray
Ray
thanks
ling
A
I just bought a 91 Mercedes which should have had R-12 in its system, but the dealer I bought it from said it has been converted and at the time of purchase the A/C wasn't very cool, which he said he'll take care of, by charging the system.
he did and the A/C is working very well. I don't have any record showing any repair history, etc. I just need to know if the actual fittings for R-12 and 134a are different as well for future reference.
thanks
So, no chance of your service provider messing it up and adding the wrong refrigerant...
Bruce
Probably not related because it's been a problem for much longer, but the check engine light has been on for some time with no obvious problems found.
I have taken the car back to the dealer 3 times and they keep telling me it's working properly.
The problem-if the air is set max a/c works fine, cold air any temperature setting. If set on auto air cold air to 69 degrees. After 69 degrees it blows hot air, it feels like the heater is blowing. The dealer says at 70 degrees the blender door opens and allows hot air to mix with cold air and this is normal. I'm in Florida. The car is hot when I get in, I understand an a/c blows warm air until the car cools off (for a few minutes) but the hot air never stops coming out of the vents. My grandmother has a Mercury that doesn't work this way. Does anyone have a Ford that blows hot air when the a/c is set on automatic temperature control.
any idea on this?
#0 of 2: 89 cadi elec. problem (raally) Tue 06 Jun '00 (06:13 PM)
I have a 89 Cadillac Seden Deville frt wheel dr,
4.5 liter. At intermittin times when I turn on the
a/c sometimes it works fine and other times when
the a/c compressor turns on it blows the 25amp
fuse which also diables the digital dashboard and the electronic climate control. I replaced the a/c
comp. relay thinking that will help, but to no
avail. Is this a problem with the a/c clutch coil
or wiring? What is a good way to check it out?
Thanks.
Your host, Bruce
If the a/c system needs work, then a shop will have the appropiate tools and equipment to deal with the freon, etc.
Sound like the compressor or related component is going bad.
I just let the R-12 out and start filling with these? is there any cross contamination, or any compatibility issues?
Anyone else have information on ataie's question?
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/engaged/edmund.cgi?c=Maintenance&f=0&t=110&q=0-
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/engaged/edmund.cgi?c=Classics&t=20&Z=RIaqxC02Z59TKLox6+JT7v18jRehvY2E
http://townhall-talk.edmunds.com/engaged/edmund.cgi?c=Accessories&t=188&Z=RIaqxC02Z59TKLox6+JT7v18jRehvY2E
There is a problem with the two links that include the &Z parameter, however. You need to delete the &z and everything to the right of it when you post a link, otherwise it will only work for you. And for some reason, the &q=0- in the first one doesn't work correctly for me (although I think it should).
Ataie, here are the topics that bobs5 found for you:
Converting Your A/C from R-12 (Freon) To R-34 (Topic #110) here in Maintenance & Repair
Converting Freon (R-12) Based A/C To R-34 On Older Vehicles (Topic #20) in Classic Cars
R-12 to R134a Conversion (Topic #188) in Accessories
The Classics Cars topic is still active, but the other two have been frozen and archived. All appear to have very good information.
Thanks again, bobs5!
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
You now know that I am no computer guru.
I feel more like the ape standing next to the monolith regarding computer programming and such. Ha ha
have a nice day
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
My old 94 Camry puts out 35 degree air even when going slow around town.
does the automatic one bleed in hot water?
I shut the car off and the fan is still blowing full blast. I disconnected the neg. battery terminal to stop the fan. Any ideas to what could be the problem?
The air conditioner on my wife's '91 Corolla suddenly stopped working. Mechanik diagnosed it as having a leak in the drier and quoted more than $600 to have it fixed. Is this part is so expensive or is it so labor-intensive? Can I get this part from a junk yard? Will it work OK, or will it leak by the end of the summer?
Hope this helps you.
...........My husband normally can fix anything on this car but he asked me to ask the experts here for help. He is baffled.............
Thanks for any/all suggestions.
There is little that a shadetree mechanic can do with a/c systems as there is specialized equipment which is required to deal with freon, etc.
I believe that a mechanic needs special training and/or license to work on a/c.
This is one of the areas that is better to bring to a mechanic for service.
"Question after question with few answers in between"
This could be a result of lack of actual experience with a particular vehicle or problematic condition.
Did you have a particular question to ask?
Edwardh1 - I believe that the difference in the cooling degrees of the 99 and 94 model cars has to do with different refrigerants which are used: 94 model probably uses r-12, 99 model probably used the new r-134. r-12 stuff cools better. The degrees that you noticed are correct for properly working systems.
this is nascar - about 35-45 degrees output from vents.
trex8888 - if this condition exists on only this particular fan setting, I would "assume" it would be a bad switch or fan motor.
olegphil - the price of the drier is probably being quoted at dealer's price. Perhaps a car parts store could get it for less? I personally would not use a salvage yard part in the a/c system, as it could be contaminated (rust or dirt) or defective. Get other price quotes if you think $600 is unreasonable.
bew1219 - "compressor whine" could be a bearing going bad in the a/c compressor.
tamatha - "lack of airflow" - many things can be the cause of this condition....bad fan; clogged vents or airways (if this car has sitting for awhile there could be a mouse's nest plugging up the works); or the dampers (the vacuum controlled devices which activates doors in the ventilation system that direct airflow) are malfunctioning.
good luck to all
What bugs me sometimes is when someone posts a problem and then never returns with how their situation was resolved. oh well
the 94 (manual system) runs the compressor til the evaporator reaches a very cold setting like a house A/C.
I was wondering if the automatic systems operated differently, like by modulating hot water flow to allow a slower approach to cabin temp. The 99 automatic does not cool nearly as fast as the 94 does. I may have the dealer check it at the 15000 mile check up.
* 89 Honda CRX - takes a while, but then cools good (R-12)
* 91 Mercedes 300SE - not too impressed (R-12)
* 95 Maxima - cools good after about 5 minutes (134a)
* 96 VW GTI - Ice cold (134a)
all above vehicles (specially CRX and 300SE) have been checked by A/C mechanic and both are fully charged and mechanically sound. I live in Dallas Texas so I would say if the A/C can pass the test here with 100 degree temp and high humidity, then it'll work anywhere.
From all the cars I've had (about 40-50 in that past 20 years), the best A/C I've seen has been the Audi and VW (Golf/Jetta). They just freeze you out.
Thanks,
Shon
I will have my husband check those out that you gave me.
If so, you can use the "Jump" box or "scroll" choices at the top of this page under the Topic title to check out post #94. Bobs5 was responding to a similar problem posted by Tamatha in post #91.
OTOH, if that's not what you meant, you might want to clarify for the group.
Pat
Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
calls for does not have enough RPM and I was wondering if anyone out there has heard of another fan motor that I may be able to use instead.
Thanks!!!!!!!!!!!!
Did this low air volume condition suddenly occur?
Do you hear the fan running? Does the fan change speeds properly? Does the air flow change when the selector is used (vent,defrost,panel,feet,etc.)?
A bad ground for the fan could also have a weird effect.
I don't know if it is possible on this model, but could the fan blades have become separated from the fan motor?
The only other thing I can think of is some kind of obstruction to the air intake (plugged filter?) or in the ductwork (plugged with leaves?)
Good luck