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Waxes and Polishes, Part II
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I have used high pressure washes for years and while I am sure that a magnifying glass will find some fine scratches as the dirt/sand is blasted from the surface, most of those should be in the wax if you have a good coat of your favorite wax on it. I feel it's more important to get the salt/dirt off my cars (I live in Northern Illinois where they coat the roads with salt all winter long)than worry about some minor scratches I can get off with a good detail in the spring. I would rather not have to get any surface wear, but sometimes you have to make a trade-off.
Don
First, my car was a new 2000 Honda Accord, with a dark green finish (dark emerald pearl). When I z'd the car, it was only 2 weeks old, so I got to it early.
I washed the car and then clayed it. First time I've ever done the claying process, but I must admit that it did remove quite a bit of dirt. My car had also been washed since I bought it, so I was amazed that the clay bar pulled out even more dirt.
Applied z1, then z2. This stuff was the easiest polish/wax I have ever used. No real effort was needed in applying it. Z'd the car on a cool day here in New England so the drying time was around 2 hours. Wiping the stuff off was equally as easly as wiping it on. No caked-on white stuff and no white flaky residue. When I was finished I could have shaved while looking at myself in the hood!
Next day it rained and the z beaded in huge quarter to silver dollar sized drops. Waited until this last weekend and applied another coat of z2 after washing.
Car looks great. Can't really tell if it is all that better than before, but it is pretty shiny.
What has impressed me to this point is a couple of things. One is the ease of application and removal of the product. I haven't had to rub at all. Wipe on and wipe off using only minimal to light pressure. Secondly, for once in my life, my car has no swirl marks! I've had black clearcoat which showed tons of swirl marks when headlights would shine on the body, but so far, I have no swirl marks after two applications of Z.
So far, I'm very satisfied with the results and am anxious to see how well it holds up to New England winters with the sand and salt.
john
p.s. Anyone looking for 100% cotton towels might give a place like Bed and Bath a look. Went into my local B&B and they had tons of white 100 per cotton towels and they were cheaper than the mall dept. stores. Yes, they are 100 per made in USA and all that jazz. X-large bath towels were on sale for like 9 bucs apiece which was about 5 bucs cheaper than Penny's. Both were Fieldcrest too!
gusicj: I have the same color (Emerald Green) on my '98 Honda Accord Coupe (EX V6). And I too love the results I got with Zaino. My initial drying times (last year when I first used Z1) were even longer. That was up in Otis, MA in cold wet climes. Where are you located? Anyway, congrads on the car (its a great car!) and your Zaino results.
BTW, it looks absolutely great after Z6, I'm hooked!
john g.
Z6 and Z7. The Z6 had partly leaked during shipment. I email them and they sent another 16 oz
bottle of Z6 to replace the leaked Z6. Sal
apparently tries to keep his customers happy.
Pblevine: the new Z1 doesn't have to dry before you apply the Z2 or Z5.
Great price.
edwinfong,
Really? That could be a great improvement in my situation. I'm in the North East and have always seen long Z1 drying times. I guess its time to order my next batch of Z1/Z2/Z6.
How does the product perform on older vehicles?
Does Z5 remove or cover up minor surface scratches and swirls?
What are the benefits of applying multiple Z2 coats? More durability? Longevity?
Are there any mail order distributors of the Zaino product that accept credit cards? I recall seeing one mentioned in a previous post.
Thanks,
answered at
http://www.zainobros.com/
pblevine: Thats the instructions that came with the Z-1, you can also look at the website above.
Also, is it really necessary to use Z6 before applying each additional coat of Z2? What happens if you don't?
You do NOT have to strip off the previous ZAINO. After about ten coats of Z-2 or Z-5, Sal recommends putting on Z-1/Z-2 again to increase the adhesion and clarity of future applications. My car is almost 17 months old and I have only used two applications of Z-1 so far. If you've seen my pics you can see that it is not hurting for a shine!
;-) Dawn will NOT take off ZAINO. Only clay will.
Yes, it is a good idea to apply the Z-6 in between coats of Z-2 or Z-5. It enhances the shine and helps to give it that "wet-look". I'm sure that if you didn't do it ALL the time, no harm would be done, but it might not be as shiny!
jwglee-
Congratulations! It will not be too cold to Z your new car. As a matter of fact, tell your dealer NOT to touch the car when it comes in- as far as cleaning it! That's where most of the scratches and swirl marks come from! I have Z'd my car here in CT in the winter when the temp is in the low 40's, sun shining, slight breeze- all with no problems. You can see what my 300M looks like after almost 17 months if you click here-
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/7501/oct991.html Good luck.
fastdriver
I will certainly do this for my next one. My current car was really, really good regarding surface condition, but this was luck, I'm sure.
I will certainly do this for my next one. My current car was really, really good regarding surface condition, but this was luck, I'm sure.
About the temperature factor: I'd still try to Z the car now. Soon it WILL be too cold. But while the temperature is in the upper 40's through the lower 60's, there should not be any problem. If you have access to a closed garage, use it for drying purposes.
far I had clayed 3 cars with one package. I cut it into three pieces and didn't recycle them cause I am afraid to scratched the paint. It was not time consuming and the finish is unbelievable. My family were opposed to clay any car from beginning. However, after I demonstrated on my car, they kept asking me to clay theirs. Better do them (clay & wax) before snow/blizzard/salt get on your car.
I'm not sure what an "Oddy" is, but it sounds big! LOL.... Do you know anyone who has a two-car garage that you could use for a few hours. That would be better then letting the dealer do it.
fastdriver
Western MA! Just go down to the Price Chopper in GB where it should be a little warmer. I'm really not sure what the best action should be. I do know that you're correct about the climate as I'm always going up to Otis, MA. I'd call or email Sal Zaino for advice. He's very helpful, so give him a try.
pblevine: here in Lee, we can always drive the 10 minutes to Otis if we want to decrease temp by 10 degrees and increase snowfall by 100%. Thanks for the info.
fastdriver
Just bought a 2-year old car from a dealer a month ago, and am thinking about using Zaino. As I am new to this product, does anyone have hints on what I should do? Process, etc.? I am assuming I need to clay first (but really unsure as to what claying actually does!) I am looking for info on what to do and more importantly what NOT to do. Anyone have any hints, comments, advise?
Is Zaino sold at any retail outlets or only through their website? I’d like to pick it up in the next few days.
Forgive the neophyte questions, but I am at a loss as to how to use Zaino. Thanks in advance on any comments.
CG
If you e-mail me, I can send you some helpful info. Take a look at the pics on my webpage and you'll SEE what ZAINO does! ;-))
fastdriver
http://www.geocities.com/MotorCity/Flats/7501/oct991.html
- Wash the car using Dawn (dishwashing liquid).
- Clay the car to remove microscopic metallic
dust.
- Wash again to remove any clay residue.
- Apply Z1 (to bond to clearcoat)
- Apply Z5 (to hide small scratches and/or swirl
marks found on an older car).
- Apply Z2 (the good stuff).
- Let dry.
- Wipe off the Z2 residue.
- Step back of look
- You can also use Z6 Gloss Enhancer to 'enhance'
the shine.
Note: Don't forget to buy/use only 100% cotton towels. See Zaino's FAQ.
At any rate, also bought a new silver metallic SUV. So now there are two to care for, and I'm afraid I have come to enjoy this chore, but my hands hate the cramps.
So are there any really good orbital buffers on the market for less than the $200 from Griot's garage?
I have hesitated to use clay because I read that it actually removes a layer of the paint. Anyone know if this is true?
Any special care that I need to give the metallic in a part of the country that has sunshine 325 days a year? My last metallic finish oxidized to the primer in less than 3 years and I have avoided it ever since, but the price was good.
Dealer told me the car had been waxed with some supposedly super wax that he claimed was better than carnuba. Also claimed they use to charge $550 for the process, but do it to all cars now. Then he told me just to keep it waxed. He knew nothing of cleaning, polishing, etc. Should I just assume the finish was a regular wax and proceed, or do I need to be more careful?
Thanks for any answers.
Thanks,
John
- to urchin34
Thanks for the kind words. Congratulations on your success with the detailing. Dealers always pay more for a car that shines because buyers associate that with a car that is well maintained.
The right clay properly applied is safe and won't hurt your car. I use clay from Griot's Garage but others like erazer, etc. Think of the clay like a razor and the lubricant (detail spray or soapy water) as the shaving cream. As you gently rub the clay in a back and forth direction on the clean lubricated surface you are removing impurities that have stuck into or onto the finish. The result is a smooth finish that makes it easier to apply wax or sealant to.
Once your finish is shining then you don't need to polish very much, only maintain what you have already achieved. I prefer One Grand's Blitz wax over anything that Meguiar's sells. It doesn't require me to use a random orbital buffer.
If you want a buffer, the one from Griot's is great just overpriced at $200.00. You can purchase the same Porter Cable random orbital polisher/buffer from www.coastaltools.com for less than $150.00 including the case. Meguiar's also sells the same Porter-Cable random orbital buffer as part of their best kit. Check out their website. Again, I don't know if it is really needed.
Good luck.
Having said that, the man is right. I've used two brands of clay (and two types of Erazer clay). If you follow the recommended usage methods, your clearcoat and paint should not be damaged. For the most part, this procedure consists of spraying a lubricant on a small area of the car's finish. You then rub the "clay" compound across the wet surface. You don't have to press down, just rub lightly. The clay has a mild adhesive quality which allows it to gather up dust which is embedded in your paint and/or clearcoat.
As the man said, much of this dust is metalic residue from brak pads. Although Meguiars and Zaino are great products which DO protect your finish, some of this metalic dust is very sharp at the microscopic level, and can penatrate into a paint surface. After ozidation, these small .... leave very small pock marks / holes permit additional water and air to make contact with you paint. This is what happened to your car. I would really recommend using a "clay" compound and yes, erazer is my favorite.
After preping the surface, you will still have to protect it. Again, Meguiars is a fine wax product, and if you continue (as in every other week) to apply it, it will do a great job. That's why I prefer Zaino. It forms a better seal and protects much longer than any wax.
But again, that's my opinion.
No, I have no reason to believe that they are product related at all. I attribute them to someone with a ring or bracelet hitting against the car. I may have even done it myself and never realized it at the time. However, the one near the gas cap, which you can barely see in the picture because of the ZAINO reflection, was done when it was at the dealers. I always clean my car before I bring it in for warranty work for just this reason not that I would ever want them to touch it up!
fastdriver
#498 - good wax
I have previously posted how I judge a wax/sealer. Most of what I use currently is not available off the shelf. Most local products are based on price-points that their research shows will sell the products. How else to explain the vast number of products available from Meguiar's. (Something for every budget.)
If I had to use a Meguiar's product I would use the Medallion series available at NAPA stores , etc. Second choice would be their Gold Class because it doesn't last as long.The easiest liquid wax I have ever used is Super Glaze from the Wax Shop. It is available locally. It just doesn't have much durability, lasting about 4 to 6 weeks. You can also check www.waxdepot.com.
The easiest paste I have used is Blitz wax from One Grand available at their website or from Larry Reynolds at www.carcareonline.com as well as others.
You may wish to use a sealant which will last longer than a carnauba product. Two products that give an excellent shine are Finish First and Zaino. I have used both and they do a fine job.
Good luck.
I started by washing the car with Dawn dishwashing liquid, then dried it. I used Erazer clay with the Zaino car-wash as lubricant. This was the first time I have ever "clayed" a car and it was very easy. Even though my car is brand new I could feel the clay removing things from the surface. I then applied Zaino Z-1 and followed that with a very thin coat of Z-2. The Zaino products are easy to apply. After I thought the Z-2 was dry (about an hour or so) I proceeded to wipe it off with 100% cotton white towels. It was easy to remove but in reflections off the cars finish (especially at night) I can see smears. It seems that the surface is actually very slightly "greasy" and if you wipe it you just continue smearing.
It was a cloudy day when I applied the polish (temp. probably in upper 60's) and perhaps I didn't allow enough drying time? The next day I tried using some Z-6 to see if that would help but you can still see smearing in the reflection. Am I just being too picky?
I'm going to see what it looks like after washing the car again this weekend with the Zaino car-wash. Hopefully it will remove any excess polish that is causing the smearing.
Does anybody have any suggestions or explanations?
In my case I think it was too much Z1. I cleaned up the smearing with a damp towel, then Z6'd and everything was fine.
How recently have you purchased Z1? I believe that Sal has a newer formula available (within the last month or so) that dries better. Mine is the older formulation. I also used mine on a friend's car, and this time I was certain I didn't use too much, but it did the same thing. That time, a simple wipe with Z6 took care of it.
Try dampening one of your towels with water, I think that will clear it up. Then Z6 those areas again.
- to Karenb3 - Klasse
I have talked about Klasse a lot but no one was interested so I stopped mentioning it. Klasse is an acrylic polymer sealant from Germany and is very popular on the West Coast.
First, you use the All-In-One then follow with the High Gloss Sealant Glaze. It is very easy and gives a fine shine. Others have posted that being an acrylic, Klasse would turn yellow the way acrylics on your floor can (remember dirty yellow buildup?). I have not seen this, even with leaving part of a panel coated with something else for comparison.
You can get it from the Herrington catalog or from the Canova Brothers at www.smoothfinish.com , or from Autopia at www.autopia-carcare.com.
As always, use what you like.
Good luck.
The Meguiar's probably worked because of the petroleum distillates. Presumably, other products such as 3M Imperial Hand Glaze or p21S Paintwork Cleanser would also work (the former having ultrafine abrasives and the latter being abrasive free).
Glad it's better.
Good luck.
I did my wife's Teal Chrysler Town & Country which is a great color when clean.
I did the whole works: Washed, Clay Magic, wash again, Z1 the Z2.
It really does look good. Even my wife notice the shine. It was night by the time I finished, can't wait to see the shine tomorrow in the sun.
The thing I notice most is the reflectivity when standing beside the van.
This van is a 1996 and had never been waxed. It still looked good after washing but now looks fantastic.
I can't say that another wax would not look this good but the Zaino sure was easy to apply and remove.
I am glad you all convinced me to try it.
I can't wait to do my green Land Rover.
How does this sound, and if its ok, what wax would be good to use. Thanks again for all of the help.
This is close, but leaves the wrong impression. Clay doesn't shave off the stuff that gets in your paint like a razor, but works more like a pair of Tweezers to pull a "splinter" out of your paint. The sticky action of the clay grabs whatever sticks on top of or out of your paint and pulls it out. the lubricant is just that, it allows the clay to glide across the paint on a layer of liquid so there is nearly zero interaction between the paint or your wax and the clay if used properly. Since clay gets dirty even if used after an aggressive wash, it obviously pulls dirt out of your wax/paint surface doing a good job of preparing your car for polishing and a new layer of wax.
As mentioned some clays are more course and have an action more like sandpaper, but these are not generally sold to the public, but are available at body shop supply stores.
For the person that asked if clay could be used on metallics, the answer is yes. That person might be thinking that the clay could effect the metallic chips in the paint, but this is not possible since all such paints have clearcoat finishes if done right and the metallic is below that surface. Clay can be used on any paint without fear if you follow the directions.
Most important is to properly wash the vehicle first and then use the clay with enough lubricant spray to let the clay glide easily across the paint. If it sticks or pulls, then use more spray.
Don M.