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Waxes and Polishes, Part II

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Comments

  • ssonnetssonnet Member Posts: 27
    Several people have stated on this site that several vinyl protection products, such as Armoral and Formula 2001 are bad for the vinyl and actually causes it to wear and crack faster. Reading the labels on thes products reveals them to say they contain UV filters and prolong the life of the vinyl, preventing premature cracking. What gives?

    Why would they make a product that trashes vinyl and claim the opposite? What's in it for them?
  • pblevinepblevine Member Posts: 858
    fastdriver & ware: I think I'll try it on my TV's too. And I'm sorry but I have no idea why it works so well on glass.

    scruplek: 'Just don't know. A high dust environment may not be ideal for Zaino application or any other product. If you want to talk to an expert try Sal Zaino at www.zainobros.com or Chris Parrish (and I can't seem to find his site at the moment). They would know how best to handle your van under those conditions.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #312
    I hate to say this, but the colors on the TV screen look more vibrant after a Z-6 shot and 100% cotton towel wipe down.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    To all-

    I KNOW that you're going to think I'm NUTS (you won't be the first), but this morning I was continuing my Z-6 test on the TV screen. I flicked my ashes into the ashtray. A few ashes flew out of the ashtray and onto the TV screen. Within a fraction of a second, the ashes flew OFF the screen!! I thought I was seeing things. I have NO clue what happened! Talk about anti-static!!

    Try it yourself!

    fastdriver
  • mtsangmtsang Member Posts: 70
    I have two coats of Z2 on my car already then I noticed some water spots on the trunk. Any suggestions on how to remove the spots? Thanks.
  • ssonnetssonnet Member Posts: 27
    Doesn't anyone have any theories on this conspiracy?
  • gusgus Member Posts: 254
    Fastdriver, I appreciate your devotion to zaino products, but in the spirit of fairness, I must ask you to remain impartial. Could you perhaps do a comparison test? Coat a third of your tv screen with Z-6, and the other two thirds with some other brands? Also, please make sure that you achieve the same results with ALL brands of cigarettes. Furthermore, please do a cable vs. antenna comparison of color, brightness and clarity. Finally, please contact Chris Parrish and find out what his recommendations are regarding application and maintenance of the Z-6 coat on your TV screen.

    Not quite April 1 yet, but I couldn't resist the urge.

    Gus
    Conference Host
  • scruplekscruplek Member Posts: 33
    Hey graphicguy and others. Read at another topic that Classic Soft Trim 1 Leather Cleaner made by Classic Soft Trim,Co in Austin Tx gets out ball point ink on leather seats. Don't know where you get it though.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    gus-

    Just reporting my experiment with ZAINO! Never said any other product wouldn't do the same! DON'T put ME in the same category as shoman please! I'm only posting the results as I see them with the product I use.

    fastdriver
  • bdevbdev Member Posts: 13
    After reading the praises of the Z products, I took the plunge. I have a dark green 96 Subaru Outback that has had its share of washings, waxings and general exposure to sun and the rest of the elements. Lots of those nasty 'micro scratches' too. I took this course of action;
    1) Washed car with Palmolive Dish soap (what can I say, that was what was under the sink)
    2) Rinsed and clayed car
    3) Washed with Palmolive again, rinsed and dried with synthetic chamois.
    4) Z-1
    5) Z-5
    Time for steps 1-5, 90 minutes (and I wasn't pushing it to set any record)
    6) Wiped/Polished off after about a 40 minute wait, it passed the finger wipe test for dryness.

    Observation;
    REALLY easy to wipe on and off
    No problems getting just the right amount on my (moistened) applicator
    Already probably the best shine the car has had
    Still have some of those micro scratches
    Did I say easy on, easy off?
    Used very little product, I was a little concerned because big $$, little bottles

    Future course of action;
    Another coat of Z-5 tonight, hopefully this will remove remaining scratches. Will they totally disappear??
    Plan on putting a couple of coats of Z-2
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 14,120
    Ballpoint ink is a tough one. It tends to be permanent and unfortunately, leather kind of "soaks it up".

    I'm not familiar with Classic Soft.

    Lexol makes a leather cleaner/conditioner that's decent...you should be able to find it at your local autoparts store. I have used this for other types of stains on leather seats and it works well (not on ink, though). You may have to use 3-4 applications to get the ink stain out. A good saddle soap may be another product to look at. It is exactly what it says it is...a "leather soap". I've used saddle soap before (can't remember the brand). With a little elbo grease, it should work, too. Make certain to use a leather conditioner after the saddle soap treatment. You should be able to find it at any good leather or boot seller.

    Of course there is also Zaino leather cleaner/conditioner, but I have never used this product. I have only used Zaino conditioner which works well to keep the leather soft and supple (also prevents cracking). It also returns the leather smell to your seats.

    ssonnet--Armorall, 20001, son of a gun, etc. actually contains forms of alcohol which dries up the emollients in vinyl and rubber over time. This will cause premature cracking if used often. I've seen dashes that actually have cracked on people's cars that were fanatic about using these products (every week)...their vinyl/rubber parts were very shiny, but also cracked and dried out (on a 3 year old accord and again on a 4 year old Tahoe). I find that these products also act as dust magnets. They probably do contain some UV protection, though. So now you have to ask yourself whether you want the super shiny look and protection from the sun or do you want all of the oils sucked out of your vinyl/rubber parts?

    If you want a good treatment for vinyl/rubber I like vinylex by Lexol...not nearly as shiny, but a good protectorant.
    2024 Kia EV6 GT-Line AWD Long Range
  • pblevinepblevine Member Posts: 858
    I'm a Zaino user too, but when it came to removing a (small) ball-point pen mark on the back of a leather seat, I used "Fantastic". I didn't have anything else around that would do the job. But it seems to have worked. Just in case the Fantastic removed some of the embedded oils, I then used Zaino's "Leather In A Bottle" and that seemed to have worked well.

    Gus,
    Please, let's be scientific about our tests. Only certified Light Meters should be used to measure the amount of transmitted light before and after cleaning TV screens with Z6. We must be objective here! And we must plan for future crash tests now. To observe adverse conditions, you know. (And to avoid having wifes tell us to test Z6 on all the living room windows). :)
  • hagarhagar Member Posts: 12
    I have tried imperial leather and used it on vinyl also and have found it to be great, got it at autosupermart.com which also has a great glas cleaner in their accessories section, check it out.
    as for wax im a fan of zymol waxes , they shine and last like nothing i have seen before and everyone like ralph lauren uses this stuff on their babies.
  • mikey42mikey42 Member Posts: 28
    I have been using Griot's wax and clay and other Griots products for a long time now on all 3 of my cars, I only started reading these boards a week ago and all I see is Zaino, is it that much better. Zaino seems like a pain in the "youknowwhat" to use. What is wrong with Griot's wax, etc. it seems to work just fine for all my cars. Just wondering if its time to change on my new 2000 truck.
  • ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    what did you see here that makes you think that Zaino is a pain in the butt to use? I just have read a bunch of posts saying how easy it is to use.

    I can confirm too based on my experience - it is very easy to use.

    The most difficult part might be actually washing, drying and claying prior to applying Zaino. But that's no Zaino's fault.
  • scruplekscruplek Member Posts: 33
    Ok I have never looked at so many towels in my life!!! I found some 100% PIMA cotton towels at JC Penney for $12.99 each. I was at Walmart and a Canon brand caught my eye. It says 100% cotton and made in the USA. However, it was $4.99. It was labeled as Sahara by Canon manufacturers. I have heard people say not to use these but they FELT awful soft to me. I hate to spend > 50 bucks on towels on a car. Is there THAT much difference? Any help out there? By the way, have you seen the terry towels that they sell at car part shops in the auto wash section??? Now those are ROUGH feeling. I can't imagine using them on a car.
  • drscopemdrscopem Member Posts: 83
    Hi:
    Griot's Garage Best of Show Wax and Zymol (not the blue liquid) are both carnauba products. There is nothing wrong with either but their durability is less than a polymer sealant like Zaino. My experience is that Zymol doesn't last long but, because of the oils in the higher priced versions, will really shine.
    I have used the Best of Show liquid and like it. Still, my favorite carnauba product is One Grand's Blitz wax because of ease of use, shine, and durability. I have achieved a shine equal to multiple coats of Zaino, it's just not as durable.
    Since it is so easy to apply, this is not a problem. Having said that I have one car with Blitz, one with Zaino, and one with Klasse.
    Good luck.
  • ssonnetssonnet Member Posts: 27
    Thank you for the recommendation. I knew somebody must have an opinion on this subject.

    It makes no sense to me that a company would sell a product as a protectant that would actually do the opposite. Maybe I am naive?
  • wareware Member Posts: 28
    FYI - Leatherique advertises (see their webpage at leatherique.com) that their leather cleaner called Pristine Cleaner will remove ink stains. They also sell leather dyes and other leather restoration products.

    Their products are highend/expensive. I ordered some to try based on posts elsewhere; don't know how good they are until I get them and use them.
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 14,120
    You are welcome.

    UV protection IS important if you leave your car baking in the hot sun often. 2001, son of a gun, amorall, etc. will probably protect against the sun. Baking a car's interior in the sun will suck out the emollients of your vinyl/rubber over time, too. The issue is to keep your vinyl/rubber parts from cracking from all sources of degradation, not just the sun.

    Again, if you can find a product that will protect against the sun AND not pull the emollients out of the vinyl (like alcohol based solvents do), you are covered. Vinylex just happens to be my choice of product and I've never had a problem with it.

    Some people like the real shiny finish that amorall gives. I'm not one of them. Plus I don't like the slippery feel that those products leave.

    Short story---my brother-in-law has a '97 accord that he used to treat with amorall weekly. He would even amorall the gas and brake pedals. In an unfortunate low speed rear ender, his foot actually slipped off the pedal when trying to stop that caused the accident. Wouldn't have believed it, but I was in the passenger seat at the time when this happened. Probably wasn't a good idea to treat the pedals, but he doesn't use amorall any more. His accord actually has a fairly sizeable crack in the vinyl dash, also. Honda dealer said that it wasn't a material defect, but attributed it to the zealous use of amorall.

    He's still fighting with Honda over this and one could question whether they are just trying to "stick it" to him. He also has a 4 year old Chevy Tahoe (out of warranty) that he used to treat with Amorall in the same fashion. Dash also cracked (just not as bad as the accord). He garages his vehicles and rarely leaves them baking in the sun so I doubt that the sun caused the cracking.

    Coincidence? Don't know!
    2024 Kia EV6 GT-Line AWD Long Range
  • mikey42mikey42 Member Posts: 28
    Ruski, I got the idea its a pain to use from reading posts about long drying times, having to wait overnight between coats of something, etc. I drive my car, I like it to look good but I am not willing to spend forever doing that. I guess I will have to try it, to see if it is as good as people say.

    On plastics, I used ArmorAll on my 73 FIAT (back when it was new) and the dash cracked within 2 years. I have never used ArmorAll on any product since then and no more cracks, I tend to keep my cars about 10 years on average. I just wipe the dash with a moist rag about once a month to clean it.

    On leather, I have a 1934 car with leather and I purchased the car in 1976. The original owner (I am the second owner) used saddle soap and Lexol couple of times a year. There may be shortcut products out there but why risk it when there is a proven system out there. Saddle soap, Lexol and elbow grease.
  • ejyejy Member Posts: 62
    Okay, have I been doing this wrong? I've done the wash, clay, wash, z1, z2, z6, z7, z2, z6, z7 wash, z6, z7 wash, z6... since spring. Now someone pointed out to me that the Zanio FAQ actually recommends wash, z6, then z2 (not z2 then z6). Which way is better? Is using z2 then z6 bad? I
    always thought an enhancer (z6) was put on after
    the gloss (z2)?

    Please set me straight!
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #339
    Your numbering indicates you have the drill down.
    Concept is; z-1 as chemical neutralizer and base for Z-2. If you want multiple coats,use z-6 gloss enhancer between coats of z-2.

    If you dont want multiple coats, then your numbers indicate you got the tap dance down.

    The only thing is that the instructions indicate that z-1 be used app each 6 months, then do z-2 after a base of z-1.
  • julie25julie25 Member Posts: 7
    I have a new red mistubishi eclipse. About three weeks ago I did the whole process: dawn, clay, z1, z5, z6...... Over the course of the next week I got 3 coats of z5 and 3 of z2 on the car with z6 in between each. The car looks great and was beading well. However, last weekend when I washed the car I am noticing that it is doesn't appear to be beading very well... The shine is there and the car still looks amazing but just doesn't appear to be beading well. I am fairly sure that I didn't do anything wrong in the application process. I suppose I will put on another coat of Z2/Z6 this weekend and see what happens then. Any thoughts?
  • parrot_headparrot_head Member Posts: 17
    Tried sending email, bounced. May also want to check out Topic 89 also on Waxes & Polishes. It is more geared toward 'store bought waxes' Nothing wrong with Zaino, I'm sure. There are many that swear by it as you can see. I was in same dilema, researched and read these sites. For me, it was a matter of 'real estate' a '00 F350 Crew Cab, Long Bed is a lot of metal and I like the wax on wax off approach, going over the same piece of metal more than once for additional product types/coats was not worth my time. Is a carnuba based as durable as polymer? Apparently not, but then again it's all what you want/what you willing to do. Good Luck!!!

    K
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #341
    I would chill. Unless of course you like the multiple build up of coats giving you that deep deep look. With even just z-1 and z-2 you have plenty of protection for a very long time (anywhere from 4-6 mo.) If my math serves me correctly, you have 8 coats? The beading test routine is a good indicator for carnuba based products. I bet that 8 coats makes your sheet metal look absolutely awesome. If you desire to go past 8 coats, this is now the right time to put a layer of Z-1 down, then continue with your z-5 and/and/or z-2.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #342
    TLC's here so I can sympathize with your situation. Zaino or shall I say, the use of Zaino has severely curtailed the amount of washing (for cosmetic reasons) and the amount of "waxing" (by almost a factor of 4-1) for the look and fussiness I was used to, in comparison with almost anyone of a doz different product brands. There are many brands that will do any one thing better than Zaino, but nothing I have run into does so many things as well.
  • newwestdnewwestd Member Posts: 157
    TV Image - This is easy - Most TV screens are not shiny smooth, they are slightly matte finished to reduce reflections. This also causes a slight diffusion of the image with a little loss of contrast. The Z6 fills in the tiny surace details, bringing back the contrast. Many other things will do this - as long as they are transparent - just wipe a little Vaseline or cokking oil on the screen - it will do the same thing.

    Dash Treatment - ArmorAll, etc. are big no-nos as far as I'm concerened because they seem to collect the dirt on Vinyl and rubber. The shiny look is artificial. Now, it seems that they can cause damage too! My steady treatment for nearly the entire interior is Lemon Pledge - It is great for the vinyl, wood leather and chrome, doesn't build up, not too shiny and smells good! Spray it on the cloth, not the dash directly. Wipe on, turn cloth wipe until completely dry. Try it!
  • mknightmknight Member Posts: 57
    Re: #341

    What did you use to wash your car that Sunday? You didn't use Dawn did you?

    --Mike
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #345
    If you want to use cooking oil and/or vaseline on your tv screen, have at it. I think the most objectionable thing you will have to do is the removal. Although I would argue that if the above mentioned products had the optical clarity that Z-6 has it might be a better and cheaper solution?

    NOT!
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #344
    Forgot to give you a real world comparison.
    I went from an weekly washing of a daily driver to monthly washing. On the same vehicle went from 1.5 mo waxing with Meguairs #26 wax with the precurser polish to 6-8 mo.

    On garaged weekend driver, went from once a month wash to 4-5 months. On the same vehicle went from 3 mo waxing to going on 9 months.(Still smooth as glass)
  • newwestdnewwestd Member Posts: 157
    I was only explaining why the Z-6 brightened colors, as some wonderd about this. I was not recommending oil as a substitute.
  • pblevinepblevine Member Posts: 858
    Well, I tried Z6 on my big TV screen with really great results. To be objective, I then tried the cooking oil. It too produced good color saturation. But now all sorts of insects and flies are sticking to the screen. The picture is good but you can't see it for the bugs. And the cat. He's taken to going after the stuck bugs and jumps all over the TV set. 'Even knocked over a vase. I'm just going to have to take his remote control away.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    All I did was say that I tried some ZAINO Z-6 on my TV screen so that when I'm having my morning coffee and cigarette, the ashes won't fly out of the ashtray and onto the 13" TV that is right next to me. It's been 4 days and the screen is clean.

    The screen does not have a matte finish. It's shiny. After putting on the Z-6, it shines even more! The color was fine before I put on the Z-6 and it's the same after I put it on. I did NOT say that the color of the picture increased or anything to that effect.

    I also went a step further and put the Z-6 on 6 computer screens at work this past Monday. There's about 19 more in that room. From then until today, HUNDREDS of people have been in and out of this carpeted room and NO dust! Much easier for me although I really don't want to spend MY money treating the computer screens at work.

    Someone mentioned house windows! Why not? When it rains, the water will run off and they won't spot! This morning it poured here in CT and was very windy. By 10:30 it stopped and the sun came out. My car dried completely- NO SPOTS! Looks like I washed it!

    Make all the fun you want of ZAINO, but those of us who use it, drive around in sparkling, WET-LOOKING (but dry) cars! Use what you want. We know the truth.

    fastdriver
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #350

    Thanks, when I read your post fast I got a real good laugh!
  • bdevbdev Member Posts: 13
    I'm generally happy with the Z1,Z5,Z5,Z2 treatment I just did on my Subaru Outback, but I need some advice;
    1) I still have little 'microscratches' showing on the dark green paint. The couple layers of Z5 didn't seem to make too big a difference. Any ideas?
    2) I got some Z2 on the black pebblely door side and bumper molding. The white haze won't wipe off, and is 'stuck' between the pebbles. I thought I could put Z2 on any surface. Did I screw up? Now, how do I get rid of it, looks like crap.
    3) I applied Zaino window polish on the inside on the inside glass. It went on OK, but seems to leave a powdery smoke like film on the glass even after repeated wipings. Is this normal, or should it have just wiped off like the other Z products? I shook the bottle well before applying.

    Despite my beefs, I think the shine looks great. I'm a little confused about Z6 application. Need I/should I put a layer of this on top of the Z2? Or am I good to go as is?

    Thanks
  • graphicguygraphicguy Member Posts: 14,120
    cooking oil? Vaseline? You guys have now given me a new hobby...treating all the stuff I want to be shiny with all sorts of kitchen/car solvents. I went after my wife with some Z6 and....whoops, that's for another board!

    bdev-about your subaru...I would stay away from using ANY wax/polish on ANY textured surfaces, including Z2. To get the z2 off, you might want to try either some bug and tar remover, fantastic, or WD 40. Be prepared to use a lot of elbo grease. For treating your textured surfaces, I would stick to something like vinylex by Lexol. These surfaces aren't meant to be shiny.

    The Zaino window polish is something I have no experience with. Maybe someone on the board does and can help.
    2024 Kia EV6 GT-Line AWD Long Range
  • pblevinepblevine Member Posts: 858
    fastdriver, I've got to order more Z6 and its all your fault. Seems my wife took it to do the windows. And all she'll say to me is: "What have you done to the cat?"

    bdev,
    -Microscratches and Z2 residue on pebbly surface:
    I'm not sure what to do. For really tough questions like these, you might consult Sal Zaino at www.zainobros.com or Chris Parrish. Do the scratches go deep into the paint? They may be caused by automatic car washing machine brushes. You may need to use an abrasive polish to rub them out. Also, have you tried to blow out the Z2 residue? Try a hair dryer (on cold).

    -Glass Polish Residue: 'Same thing happened to me. I used a second coat of the Glass Polish after I realized that the residue was over areas with a thick 'plastic residue' film. That helped a lot. And then (thanks to fastdriver's advice) I used some Z6 on the interior window, and that eliminated the remaining residue.

    - Z6 over Z2: Z6 should be used between washings to: help remove dust, and to 'enhance' the existing Z2 shine. You don't actually put a layer of Z6 down. Rather it is a cleaning agent which will keep your Z2 layer in good condition.
    Just spray a little on a small area of a panel and immediately wipe it off. You'll see a cleaner surface.
  • ruskiruski Member Posts: 1,566
    Did you wash with Zaino Z-7 or something else?

    I usually wash with Z-7 and it beads well.

    Once I tried Gliptone wash and the car stopped beading water. I got scared and Zainoed it once more (that was my 6th coat I think).

    Also make sure that your carwash is not too concentrated.
  • greatdocgreatdoc Member Posts: 2
    I just got a 2000 Volvo C70 Convertible in dark metallic blue. After reading through these posts I'm gonna take the Zaino plunge. I'll order Z1, Z2, Z5, Z6, and the leather stuff tomorrow.

    My next task is deciding how to care for the rag top. I live in Miami and am very wary about sun damage. Unfortunately, the car will be parked in the sun a good portion of the time. I'd appreciate any tips on using Zaino products for the first time on a brand new car, and any suggestions for products to use on the ragtop. I'd like to protect it from sun damage (if possible) despite it's unavoidable and continuous exposure.

    Thanks!!
  • scruplekscruplek Member Posts: 33
    To get Z2 off porous materials use lighter fluid or rubbing alcohol. Rub area for second or two, then let dry. Reapply if necessary with BRIEF rubbing action. ---excerpt from Using Car Care Products by Ann Emigh who posts in this topic

    Zaino Glass Polish: I had the same problem with the stuff. Once it hazed over and I wiped it off, there is this fine ash in all the creases and cracks anywhere near the windows. All this powdery stuff all over where I just had a perfectly clean car really upset me!!! Plus, there is this film over the window too. I thought the polish would really clean the windows, but it just STUCK to any bug smears that were on them. YUCK. Now I get to start all over and rewash the car and get this green stuff off all the cracks. Anyone have any luck with the it?
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    #358
    Yes, same for me. The only thing I could think of is do the polish first, then wash the car.

    But normally, I just take a 100% cotton rag/towel and just pat or slap it away.
  • pbcpbc Member Posts: 44
    Has anyone tried to use Zaino in the winter time, or under colder conditions anyway? I live in Toronto Canada and the weather will be getting pretty cold in a couple of weeks.
  • scruplekscruplek Member Posts: 33
    I put Z2 on, then when wiping it off, found some minute scratches on the top of my van. Can I put Z5 over them to fill them in or do I have to strip everything down and put Z1 and then Z5?
  • scruplekscruplek Member Posts: 33
    I emailed Sal Zaino about the glass polish and this is the response I got. Hope it helps:

    You have to use Z-12 with a damp cotton towel, so it will work properly....

    Z-12 is 100% safe on all factory glass. It contains a micro-abrasive
    specifically designed for glass.

    Z-12 was designed to remove the plasticizers that attach to the interior
    glass. That nasty film you see. It will completely remove that in one
    application.

    Apply Z-12 with a damp cotton cloth. Do small sections at a time. Let
    Z-12 completely dry and then buff with a clean dry cotton towel. If
    there is any smearing or residue left. Just use Windex to clean off the
    excess residue. You can continue using Windex for maintenence, until the
    windows become dirty or hazy again. Then use Z-12 again.

    No need to use it all the time. I use Z-12 every 30 to 90 days to get the
    windows crystal clear. Then I maintain the glass with windex.
  • fastdriverfastdriver Member Posts: 2,273
    scruplek-

    You don't have to strip it all down. Just put the Z-5 on. After you wipe it off, follow up with the Z-6. In 24 hours you can do the Z-5 again if necessary, followed by the Z-6 again.

    fastdriver
  • pblevinepblevine Member Posts: 858
    Sal's comment is very good. Still, after using Zaino Glass Polish, I use Z6 to clean off the residue. I don't like Windex which contains ammonia.

    I've used Z6 during the winter. Is -5 F cold enough for you? Just be very quick. Spray on, wipe off immediately. Drink a sip of hot coffee and continue.

    Sorry, but I don't know how to maintain a rag top. Does your manufacturer and/or dealer have any good suggestions?
  • shomanshoman Member Posts: 97
    If the top is the cloth variety, it's going to be more of a problem, check with your owners manual or the manufacturer, but generally, wash with a mild detergent (weak mixture) and lots of water, avoid brushes if possible and for sure don't use stiff brushes. Pat dry with a Chamois/synthetic Chamois or lint free towel.

    If the top is vinyl, wash normally, dry and then use a quality vinyl cleaner/conditioner like Lexol Vinylex. A medium short bristle brush is good to work in the product and wipe with a lint-free cloth/towel. This is good also for vinyl tops. You might have to dry off the brush and go over it again with the now dry brush to get out any left-over product. I have used this process on convertibles and older concours winning cars with 20+ year old vinyl tops.

    Someone asked about newsprint to buff windows, and the comment was made that the newsprint isn't very absorbent. This is true, here is what I found that works well for me.
    Use your favorite window cleaner and a heavy duty paper towel or thin cotton cloth. It's OK to let the cloth/towel get soaked, because you don't want to dry the window yet. Once you have worked the cleaner into the area, then use another single cloth/towel and lightly wipe leaving a noticable wet film and then quickly buff with the newsprint which will then be good enough to get the little bit of wet film left over. One regular newspaper page (half of a double page) is about right,and it will do one window before it starts tearing or leaving it's own lint, so change the newsprint after every window.

    Yet another comment about pebbly black plastic turning white/grey. No matter where/who you get it from, Wurth Rubber Care really works and it's good for the part.

    Don M.
  • wareware Member Posts: 28
    I find Windex with ammonia works better on my windshields than non-ammonia cleaners I've tried so far.

    For inside windows, in order to remove the plastic outgassing film on the windows, I've been thinking about using acetone which dissolves plastic. Only problem is keeping the acetone off the dashboard and other plastic parts in the car when doing the windows. Anyone ever try acetone?

    Zaino's micropolish window cleaner no doubt should work well to remove the plastic film, but I haven't tried it yet. I guess if the abrasives in it are fine enough, it shouldn't harm the window.
This discussion has been closed.