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Brake

245

Comments

  • leonivleoniv Posts: 120
    Has anybody had any good or bad experiences with After-Market brake pads/rotors for the J30? I've been considering pads/rotors from local retailers here in Atlanta. I have no complaints with the factory Infiniti pads, just the price. $76.45 for just pads and $220 for a pair of rotors is kind of out there so I thought I could do better elsewhere. I've heard of some after-market pads squealing because of them being too hard. Whether this is true or not, I don't know. Any thoughts?
  • vac23vac23 Posts: 118
    Brand name after market brakes pads are just as good as OEM or better. You might want to try Bendix I have them on my car & they don't sqeak like the factory ones that were on there.
  • I have best luck with Performance Friction pads. They tend to produce more brake dust but brake feel and fade resistance are better than others I have tried. Service life is not longer than other aftermarket but it's lifetime warranty.
  • kcuvalakcuvala Posts: 1
    Recently, at my 50,000 mile service check up, I was told by the service dept that my 98 Volvo s70 will be in need of new front rotors and pads in 7,000 miles. I've owned several vehicles prior to the Volvo (mostly Honda models) and have exceeded 120,000 miles before having to replace rotors. Any Volvo owners out there who have replaced rotors at this mileage interval?? Thanks
  • gmiller5gmiller5 Posts: 2
    I thought like you, went to Midas, purchased their brake pads/rotors. Not a good move. Even though Midas has the lifetime guarantee on the pads. Check your options and see what the price difference is. If it isn't much, I would stick to the original parts.
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    Has anybody used after market rotors and pads for late model Accords and got satisfactory results, if yes what is the brand name?
    Thanks
  • bill11770bill11770 Posts: 29
    i have a honda accord LX 96,4dr.,5spd.,rear drum brakes. i want to convert my rear brake to disc brake. is anybody know where i can parts that would fit bolt-on.
  • projectzx3projectzx3 Posts: 256
    I am getting a burning smell on my new car. i thought maybe my dealers service dept might have spilled some oil when they changed the o+f for the first time. but i had them check it. no leaks, no spills. i even checked it myself. recently, a friend told me ABS systems can give of fumes that smell similar to oil burning off say an exhaust manifold. i really don't think so as i own 2 other cars with ABS systems and never had or heard of anything like this. Can an ABS system on a car give off fumes that mimic burning oil?
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    No
  • projectzx3projectzx3 Posts: 256
    i didn't think so either. thanks
  • kibiaskibias Posts: 1
    I have 1998 Isuzu Rodeo 24,000 miles (40,000 KM)
    which required new rotors and pads (all four wheels) Isuzu customer service advises that it is due to winter driving and salt damage. The vehicle has very little experience in these conditions, in fact less than four months.
    Has anyone experienced this problem and was it covered by warranty?
  • I've been shopping around for brakes for my 87 Tercel and 95 Saturn. My questions:

    1. What is this lifetime warranty for brake pads? Is it like the muffler in my Tercel that Midas has replaced three time? Is this a good product, or some kind of marketing I don't understand? Also, what are semi-metallic pads?

    2. Any experience with aftermarket parts for the Saturn? No dealership in this town and brake pads and install are $184 each front and back.

    Any advice appreciated--thanks.
  • vac23vac23 Posts: 118
    not sure what that warranty covers. If I had to guess it's probably workmanship etc. Don't think it'll cover normal wear & tear otherwise they'll be out of business.
  • reugenereugene Posts: 1
    I recently purchased a 1998 Toyota Sienna (24,000 miles) and am very happy with it. I have noticed that just before the vehicle comes to a stop, the brakes whine (not loud, but certainly audible, and only at very slow speed). No other sounds, no pulling, good stopping distance. Anyone have any ideas? Thanks.
  • a209532a209532 Posts: 1
    Has anyone experienced any problems with the
    antilock brakes on the 97 Jeep Grand Cherokee
    going off in normal conditions (e.g., smooth street, slowing for a stop sign or red light?). The brakes work fine in wet conditions or rough pavement.
  • plainoplaino Posts: 1
    same thing is happening to me on my '98. Dealer said it is due to brake pads having no asbestos in them and we have to live with it. I don't think that is what Toyota would say.
    I heard from a friend who had the same problem on his '98 328i and the mechanic suggested a few panic stops from above 50 MPH to scrub off the residue from the pads and that would fix it. I have not tried it yet.
  • Check out <<A HREF="http://www.noisefree.com">http://www.noisefree.com>; for disc brake squeal silencer. Product has been around for many years and has many testimonials. Good Luck.
  • spyderturbospyderturbo Posts: 31
    My wife just had some brake work done on her '97 Altima. The car has 52,000 miles on it and she took it to one of the "brake specialist" in town that advertises a brake job "for just $99.98...in most cases." As I predicted, once they examined her brakes they told her that it would really cost more like $300 to correct all of the problems they found with her brakes.

    Here is what the service ticket says they did:

    Replaced disc pads (but they STRONGLY suggested having the factory upgrade done, which my wife declined)

    brake shoes were relined

    rotor "machine RF LF"

    Drum "machine RR LF"

    Bleed, flush fill and adjust brake system

    The rest of the ticket is hard to read and understand, but from what my wife tells me, the brake place said the calipers need to be worked on and from what I can make out on the ticket, they are claiming heat and binding to be a problem.

    The ticket also says the return springs need work...weak

    The bottom of the ticket says "brakes will run hot, squeak and wear out permanently due to needed and suggested repairs not done..customer is aware."

    I know very little about brake repairs but for a 3 year old car with 52,000 miles, it is hard for me to accept that $300 plus in break repairs is needed already. I smell a scam here.

    I realize it is hard to truly access this situation without seeing the car, but I'd be interested in knowing some opinions on this.

    The guy even told my wife that the car would get better gas mileage if the repairs were done!!!
  • bnormannbnormann Posts: 335
    The things you mention are not unusual for a small car with 52,000 miles. What they are saying about dragging is based on the (front) pads and (rear) shoes not retracting fully due to some mechanical wear. In the front this constant dragging has caused the brakes to overheat, possibly damaging the seals and leaving burnt remnants that are cusing MORE sticking.

    I can't speak for the reputation of the place you went to, but if they are lying, they know the script.....

    Bruce
  • spyderturbospyderturbo Posts: 31
    Thanks for responding Bruce
  • I had a local shop (franchised) replace the front brake pads a few years ago. They offered me the life time warranty on the brake pads and labor which I gladly accepted because I intended to keep the car as long as it runs. Today, I went back to redeem the warranty but got turned down. The shop folks said I have to replace the rotors ($220 plus tax) to get my free pads. I was not happy to hear that so I went to another shop and got a second opinion on that. This shop folks told me that the rotor thickness is still within the spec and offered to replace the pads for $70. I warn you folks out there, be aware that the life time warranty is not what you think it is.
  • In response to Kristine9's question, I'd like to share my recent experience, and hopefully answer Krinstine's questions.
    Both Meneike and Midas offer the lifetime warranty on brake parts they install as long as you own the vehicle. However, there is a catch. Read the warranty yourself, to replace warranteed parts, they must restore the whole brake system to PROPER OPERATION. This is how they get you. The rotor thickness on my vehicle was .807" and spec says it would be unsafe if less than .797". The shop manager pointed out to me that the rotor surface need to be ground to get rid of the grooves. By grinding the surface would makes the rotor unsafe (thickness wise). His explanation was not so convincing so I got a second opinion from another shop. This mechanic (ASE certified) recommended no replacement of rotor nor grinding of the rotor surface. I believe most cars use semi-metalic pads on the front disc. They lasts longer than regular pads. Your Tercel's rear wheel should be equipped with drum brake and regular brake shoes (vice pads). I believe the brake warranty is nearly same as the muffler warranty. Again, your muffler will not be replaced unless you authorize them to restore the whole exhaust system (which include catalytic converter, pipes, and harnesses). Many times, these pipes cost more than the muffler.

    Answer to your second question, the front brake pads (semi-metalic) replaced by Midas lasted over 50K miles of local driving on my vehicle. I paid $72 for them back in 1995, probably cost $100 now. I think $200 for both front and rear brake pads/shoes replacement is reasonable. Hope this help you out...
  • bobs5bobs5 Posts: 557
    Had to have my exhaust fixed yesterday at Midas.
    Was LOUD for a couple of days.
    On the way over there, sure enough the muffler fell to the ground. There was a lot of corrosion (rust) on pipes and muffler.
    Repair required: exhaust pipe, tail pipe, hardware, and a free muffler.
    They did not have to replace cat converter.
  • md_techmd_tech Posts: 84
    Your right their is a catch don't walk in being a female. That lifetime warranty catch for brake pads becomes a $500.00 brake job. Before I knew anything about cars I ran onto this wonderful lifetime warranty. I go to get new brake pads (by myself) which was a bad idea. The tech. brought me back into the shop with my car racked up telling me how my rear wheel cylinder were leaking my rotor where below spec. An on and on at the time I owned a 87 Dodge I would have believed anything. I held off on the major $500.00 expense without new brake pads. A few months later I took a Automotive course on Brakes and guess what I found. My rotors were not under spec. my wheel cylinders not a drop of fluid could be found all I needed where some $50.00 brake pads. Maybe if I did'nt walk in a female I would have been able to get those lifetime warranty pads without paying the lifetime warranty fee.... Sorry I'm still a little bitter from that experience. Maybe that's why I decide to become a technition. I could't afford to keep getting taken.

    Kristina/co host Our Turn
  • dhoffdhoff Posts: 282
    I have a 1993 Nissan NX that has this problem. It has been doing it for a year now, and it seems to be getting worse lately. I havn't done anything about it yet because we don't use the car much any more.

    It pulls to the left under braking, and in a panic stop could cause you to swerve if you are not prepared for it.

    What I'd like to know is, what causes this? Is it an alignment issue, or a brake problem? I'd like to have some idea before I take it in. I know enough about cars that when I get something fixed I don't get "taken", but I have no idea what causes this.

    If anyone here has experienced this problem, or knows what causes it, I'd like to hear about it.

    Dave
  • edwinfongedwinfong Posts: 25
    What are names of "good" brake pads or shoes?
    Which brand names should I be looking at or
    avoiding? I asssume they are not all the same.
    Thanks for any info.
  • tneal1tneal1 Posts: 2
    The best name I have heard of is Bendix.
  • tneal1tneal1 Posts: 2
    I purchased a 1999 Ford Escort in August. Right now I have 6300 miles on it. I am starting to hear the squeaking in my brakes when I am driving slow. Can it be possible that it is time for a brake job???
  • japgarjapgar Posts: 1
    My '94 Villager has been very reliable overall but lately I've been having an intermitten problem
    with the brakes that the dealer service folks
    cannot seem to figure out (never happens for
    them).

    Once in a while (say 2-3 times a week) during
    light braking at low speeds (eg. line of traffic
    inching up to stop sign) the pedal drops out, the
    brakes let go, and there is a noise under the hood (abs pump?). Then it's fine again, as quickly as getting off the pedal and getting back on it. Normal operation at other speeds and conditions.

    So far the brakes have been adjusted and master
    cylinder replaced as a shot in the dark (under
    extended warranty at 74.9K). Next week it goes in
    for another try....any thoughts out there on
    whether the problem might be the wheel sensors or
    the abs controller or something else?
  • vac23vac23 Posts: 118
    The noise could be a result of poor quality pads. May still be effective in brake but makes alot of noise doing it
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    Many aftermarket pads are made with a generic compound. It would be too costly for the independent pad manufacturer to make a special compound for each manufacturer. It is always best to use pads from the manufacturer. You may want to see what it would cost to replace the pads with Volvo pads. Aftermarket brake pads very often do screech.

    You may be able to get the current pads to stop screeching by applying an anti-noise compound to the back of the pads. It is a product that keeps the pads from vibrating against the caliper cylinders.

    I would not continue the hard stop fix. It can lead to glazing of the pads, not cure it. Why hard stopping sometimes works is that it accelerates the wearing in of the pad to the rotor surface and that can sometimes cure a screech, but at the risk of glazing the pad surface due to excessive heat.

    I wouldn't turn the rotors if the brakes were fine before the brake job. Turning rotors can lead to brake pulsation if they aren't turned right, which is very likely.
  • having a problem with my 2000 accord ex...doesn't happen all the time...come to complete stop at an intersection....while waiting with foot on brake...all of a sudden i can feel engine revving and then brake feels as though it is fighting my foot..then i feel car start to move slightly forward...as i said, doesn't happen all the time....anyone else have this problem?
  • car4sue1car4sue1 Posts: 2
    Does anybody have a good reason why the rotor's on my '96 Mystique are now warped after having a complete brake job in less than a year? The new brakes have less than 10,000 miles on them.
  • bnormannbnormann Posts: 335
    Did they replace the rotors during the brake job? It is not commonplace to replace these items.

    It IS commonplace to machine them down a little to create a new, smooth surface for the new brake pads to mate with. The problem with this is that as the rotors get thinner, their ability to absorb heat is reduced. Also, the thinner part is more likely to warp when it gets hot because it is not as strong.

    Just be glad you don't have a midsize GM. Their rotors are famous for warping, even when they're new.

    Bruce
  • I was told by a gas station mech that the front pads on my 97 Prelude need replacing @ 40K miles. I do mostly city driving. I don't race or autocross. Is it normal that the pads only last this long? Thanks!
  • car4sue1car4sue1 Posts: 2
    I had a complete brake job in July '99. While, I was driving the other day the car seemed to almost not stop in time, the problem was diagnosed to be warped rotors. Needless to say I haven't driven it since.
    My question is what caused the warping, was it poor workmanship/cheap parts, the originals lasted over 50,000 miles the new ones less than 10,000, or are my driving habits the cause.

    Thanks!
    Sue
  • vac23vac23 Posts: 118
    can be contributed to alot of things. The first common item is the tech puts the tire back on the vehicle, they used an impact gun w/ or w/o a torque stick to tighten the lug nuts. The problem with impact guns is they are not set to a specific torque spec for each vehicle. Tell them to use a torque wrench to tighten the lugs. This will assure that there is even pressure hold the tire to the car. another thing it might be is that the rotors/pads are of bad quality
  • vac23vac23 Posts: 118
    If you got 40k miles out of you pads you should consider yourself luck. on avg pads needs to be changed after 25-30k especially in city driving
  • lmc18lmc18 Posts: 32
    I recently had both my front and rear brakes replaced on my '91 Talon. When the front brakes were replaced I also had 2 new rotors put on. Since then there has been a constant squeal when the brakes are applied. I was told by the shop that did the front that it was coming from the back - so I had them done also. I still have the squealing and sometimes a groan at the end of a stop when I hit them kind of hard. I don't know what the problem could be. I guess they are safe, but so annoying! Could it be that the rotors weren't cut right? Help! I can't stand the noise!
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    Brake squeal comes from the pads vibrating at a high rate as they press against the rotors. Kinda like rubbing your fingernail against a blackboard.

    The usual cause is an incompatibility between the pads and the rotor, or looseness due to bad pad mounting clips.

    If the rotors were not cut with too rough of a surface, that could also cause some noise. The surface should be very smooth. One test is that a ball point pen should be able to make a line on the surface without the line breaking into dots.

    I will assume they changed the pad clips. Pads also may have anti-squeal shims mounted on them and they may have installed the shims incorrectly.

    Did you use original factory parts? In many cases aftermarket pads will squeal due to incompatibility. A change to factory pads will immediately fix it.

    There are anti-squeal compounds that can be applied to the back of the pads. That can sometimes help.

    Mr. Vivona
  • bobs5bobs5 Posts: 557
    There should be a rear brake cylinder rebuild kit available at the auto parts store.
    They usually have all new components in the kit. seals, piston, etc.
    Change the seals, even though they were not leaking, they are old.
    The pitting or corrosion is usually due to old brake fluid which, over time, gets contaminated by moisture.
    Flush the entire brake system with new brake fluid, from the master cylinder through all of the brake lines.
    Good luck
  • mazda323mazda323 Posts: 66
    Thanks for the advice. The rust on the piston was on the outer edge, an area that should be protected by the rubber nipple that fits on the end of the cylinder assembly. My guess is that water gets into the drum because the parking brake lever was also seized. My dad uses the car for some serious off-roading (at least for a 2wd car!!). He flodded the carpet inside with a couple inched of water last fall. I will make sure to flush out the braking system to prevent any other problems.
    I have already looked at buying a rebuild kit. Unfortunatly, the only place I can find a cylinder rebuild kit is at the Mazda dealership and it sells for $27. I can get a complete cylinder assembly (probably rebuild) for $29 at the UAP auto parts store. I don't feel like spending that on much on my beater, so I will reassemble the cylinder and keep an eye out for leaks. Should I use anything to lubricate the pistons or just soak it in fresh brake fluid?
  • bobs5bobs5 Posts: 557
    Your probably already done with this job by now but, yea, coat the piston with new brake fluid.
    Frozen parking brake lever could be rusted up brake cables. I had to replace the 2 rear parking brake cables on my car due to rust. Seems that the front cable is giving me trouble now.
  • mazda323mazda323 Posts: 66
    I reassembled the cylinder like you suggested and bled the brake lines. I also replaced all the cables for the hand-brake and everyting works properly.
    Well, almost. I think I will have to replace the master cylinder. When applying the brakes, the pedal goes all the way to the floor, slowly. The car was doing this before I started looking at the bakes. I thought that adjusting the rear brakes properly would take care of this. Although the brake pedal is higher, it still drops to the floor when applying the brakes. Before, I couldn't realy tell because the pedal was low, but now, I can definitly feel the pedal drop to the floor. The level of the brake fluid hasn't gone down, so it's not a leak in the system. I am also sure I bled the brake lines properly. I believe the problem is with the master cylinder. Maybe the piston or the rubber gaskets in the master cylinder are worn.
    I also noticed that this only happens when the car is running. If the engine is off, the brake pedal will not drop at all when applied. It will remaing high until I start the engine. It will then drop to the floor.
    I want to make sure that my diagnosis is correct. Does anyone else agree that the problem is with the master cylinder. Or could it also be the brake booster???
    Any comment is appreciated.
  • bobs5bobs5 Posts: 557
    Aren't cars fun?
    If you can afford it, change both booster and master cylinder. Either one may give the symptoms you mentioned. Maybe vacuum related? Even if the booster is bad, I don't think the pedal should go all the way to the floor, which would lead me to believe it's the master cylinder. I can be wrong of course.

    This is getting to the full extent of my experience with brake repairs so I don't want to give bad advice.

    Had a 83 ford ranger which had to replace the booster. It gave a distinctive vacuum leak sound, pedal would go down somewhat (not to the floor); and with a pumping action of the brake pedal it would stall the engine due to vacuum loss.

    Good luck.
    Bob

    Anyone else care to post suggestions for mazda323?
  • mazda323mazda323 Posts: 66
    My car also stalls if I just pump the brakes when the engine is idling. I haven't heard any distincive vaccum sounds, but I haven't looked for one yet. On your Ranger, where was the leak? Was it on the hose that powers the booster or was it inside the booster? What's the easy way to find those leaks, if you can't hear them? I've heard that it can be done with propane 'cause it gets sucked in the engine and changes the idle speed.
    I just can't figure out why the brake pedal only drops when the engine is running. As far as I know, the booster shouldn't cause that. It would have to be a bad seal inside the master cylinder. But why is this only happening when the engine is running. I wonder if it's because the force applied when the engine is running is much greater (because of the booster), and this causes the brake fluid to leak past the seals. And when the engine is off, I don't feel the pedal drop because I am not applying sufficient force???
    Any suggestions?
    Thanks again.
  • bobs5bobs5 Posts: 557
    My ranger problem was inside the booster. It is a sealed unit so I could not open it up to determine exactly what was wrong. That thing is still a mystery to me. It had a vacuum leak sound, which was heard while sitting in drivers seat, when brake pedal was depressed. Went to the local salvage yard a got one for $20.

    The pedal movement is easier with the assistance of the vacuum booster. Perhaps it requires more force without the booster functioning.
    As far as I know, the booster shaft is in-line with the brake pedal and the master cylinder shaft, so if it goes all the way to the floor, to me would indicate an internal leak in the master cylinder.

    I would assume a vacuum gauge could be used to try and track down vacuum leaks. Never used one myself so I really don't know for sure. It could monitor the vacuum pressure reading while one plugs different lines to see if there is any pressure differences.

    Propane? Thought I saw a show on tv which they used propane to determine a vacuum problem of a carburetor. I don't know how it would be applicable to brakes though.

    I know your trying to keep repair costs down, but it may be time to seek out a mechanic.
  • bobs5bobs5 Posts: 557
    Any luck yet?
  • em5em5 Posts: 2
    I recently purchase a 2000 Honda Accord. Lately when I begin driving the car I can't press the brake in and the car will not stop. Then if I try pressing it again, I can press it in. It doesn't always happen and when it does it only happens first thing in the morning or when I haven't driven for a while. I have taken the vehicle to the dealership and they can't figure out what the problem is. The mechanic said that we should pump the brake before driving. I feel like this is not acceptable for a car that is one month old. I am wondering if anyone else has experienced this problem with this car.
  • Fellow mechanics,
    What must be done to rotors when it is time to replace pads?
This discussion has been closed.