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  • gusgus Posts: 254
    The pads that Toyota has been using these days have been noisy. Use a good, quality pad and you'll cut down on noise, as well. If you've got rear drum brakes, try sticking with OE stuff, especially where wheel cylinders are concerned.
  • dnk1dnk1 Posts: 26
    I have a '95 Nissan 200 SX with about 36K on it. I've noticed that in the mornings, even when it's 80 degrees out, the first couple of applications of the brakes are *very* grabby. It's not bad, but a little pedal pressure goes a *very* long, neck-snapping way. After the car warms up, it never happens again. Any ideas why?

    Also, in general, how long are rotors supposed to last? I thought about buying a quality set of slotted and vented (not cross-drilled, though) Brembo's, but if you have to replace your rotors with your pads, that would suck.
  • vac23vac23 Posts: 118
    I experience the same thing with my brakes sometimes. Not sure what causes it. As far as how long brakes should last. In general they should last about 30k or so miles depending if you do alot of city driving, how you use the brakes etc. You don't need to replace the pads & rotors at the same time if they are not out of spec.
  • r9999r9999 Posts: 1
    my 1999 lincoln i recently purcahsed has a loud bread squeask. i took it to the dealer who said it was normal for ford products to have this problem and gave me a copy of a letter form the ford corp. saying this was normal its driving me crazy. anything i can do to correct this.
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 764
    Regarding aftermarket pads: The one downer is that they don't include clips to hold the pads in place. This may result in a squeak the first time you apply the brakes, each time the car is cold, as the pads re-seat themselves.

    R9999, one possibility is that the rotors are "glazed". Try cleaning them with brake cleaner.

    Community Leader/Vans Conference
  • I am currently doing a rear wheels disk pad changeout on my 97 I30. I have had the rotors turned and have run into a show stopper. My question is there a reason for the pistons to not retact with a 'c' clamp during pad change out? Does the vehicle need to be running because of the brake booster?
    Thanks for your help
  • bobs5bobs5 Posts: 557
    Not familiar with your particular car but, every time I have used the "c" clamp to retract the piston, it has worked.

    Piston may be corroded and stuck?
    The cap of the master cylinder might have to be loosened to relieve pressure buildup as the piston is retracted?
  • burdawgburdawg Posts: 1,524
    Rear discs on most cars are different than fronts, due to the emergency (or parking) brake. There has to a mechanical link to the pads independent of the hydraulic system, and it has to be self adjusting. Most times the pistons have to be rotated back into the caliper with a tool. One exception that comes to mind is older Mercedes that have a combo disc/drum rear brake, where the drum brakes are for the emergency brake only. A manual, if you don't already have one, will give you the info you need. There are universal tools that work in most cases, and I've done it in the past using two drift pins and some large pliers when the tool wouldn't fit. Also, it's a good idea to open the bleeder valve when retracting the piston and let the fluid drain into a jar or can through a hose. This prevents the fluid from overflowing the master cylinder and causing a big mess under the hood, plus helps remove contaminants from the piston fluid chamber.
    You could also remove some of the fluid from the master cylinder with a squeeze bulb.
  • Thanks all(bobs5/burdawg)for your help. I made a couple of calls to my local tool rental shops, trying to locate a ratcheting tool for removing the pads for rear brake calipers, and found one. It worked great. I did however have to do the job twice. The after market (non-OEM) direct replacement pads squealed when applied. I then replaced them with OEM replacements, with satisfactory results. A little more expensive but no squealing.
    I glad there are these forums.


    (Thats' the brakes!)
  • astoncastonc Posts: 1
    My wife's 99 Odyssey has a squeaking break. We don't know whether it is front or back but it happens when we back out from garage or breaking slowing (like on red light).

    The dealer said it was normal in winter because some moisture in break drum etc etc. I think if
    it is normal, Honda should have mentioned it in the User Manual.

    Any idea?


  • gus18gus18 Posts: 1
    just responding to some things I have read on the site. seems to be a lot of misinformation. as a vw service advisor ( a highly trained one, I am rated "advanced" by VoA), some things I have read are just plain wrong. It may have to do with people that do the same job as me with less training. For example, brake squeak, it is a result of semi-metallic brake pads. this has been required since about 96 due to automakers having to remove asbestos from the pads (hazardous material) for those of you that may doubt this your local vw dealer should have a notice from VoA on this. it will be in their "apostles" book
  • ernesternest Posts: 30
    On cold mornings, my the brakes sometimes react as
    though there is no power assist. After warming up
    for a few minutes the brakes work fine. Some
    mornings they are fine from the outset. What do
    you think is the problem? Ernest
  • The ABS indicator light intermittently comes on in my 96 Honda Accord. When the light is on and I apply the brakes I hear a click coming from behind the glove box. This will usually occur while I'm driving as opposed to just after engine start or in the morning, etc. Has anyone else run into this and if so, what was the problem?
    Thx for any feedback.
  • I have a 97 Mitsubishi Mirage. Has 33K miles but has already had 2 front brake jobs. First job was 23K including needing a rotor replacement. Second job was at 32K, only 9K miles with other side wearing our first. All cars I have ever owned have gone at least 40-50K before disk brakes needed changing.
    Service manager and factory rep. insist the wear is "normal". I have asked for further testing etc but have been refused. They insist that their inspection does not show a problem but may be intermittent. They will not take any responsiblity. Anyone have any suggestions on what to do next.
  • eicaseicas Posts: 2
    In response to your problem in the Lincoln brake noise, or any one else with problems in general. It has been my experience with "FORD" that every time you visit the dealer with a noise "IT IS ALWAYS NORMAL".
    I had noisy brakes when I bought my 1994 T-bird and as expected took it back at about 10k miles. And as expected I was told that the noise was a normal thing with the car. Since I had bought it new I had a valid argument that saved me from having to live with the problem. I told them that normal noise was the noises that came with the car when I first test drove it before buying it, and the reason for me buying the car in the first place was for the lack of unwanted noises. I told them that they had failed to mention that the car was going to develop this so called normal noise, had they done so I would not have bought it.Had those noises been normal they would have been with the car from day one..... The dealer under warranty replaced the brake rotors and pads in three occasions after that at the different miles that the car started to do the same. You might want to back to the dealer and ask why is it that the so called normal noise was not there when the car was delivered. It was no easy task getting my point across but they finally listened. I see no reason why an up scale car like the Lincoln should have this kind of so called NORMAL NOISES. GOOD LUCK.
  • eicaseicas Posts: 2
    I always have experienced some noise in the brakes at some time or another. The noise is a groan when the brakes are applyed and the car is about to come to a stop, also when releasing them say at a red light just lightly to move a little. I had the problem after the car hit 15,000 miles and after a bitter experience trying to explain that the noise was not normal since I had bought the car new with no noise, the dealer replaced the rotors and pads 2 times after that for the same reason until my warranty ran out. Since they had replaced the pads before I just recently had to do it myself. I turned the rotors and replaced the pads. Bought Bendix pads, I was told were good brand. From day one the groan is worse that it ever was, and I now get a squeaking noise with out applying the brakes, squeaks like every turn as if the rotors were warped. The place that turned the rotors never mentioned that the rotors were bad. Is it possible to turn the rotors wrong to cause the squeak? Would the OEM pads minimize the groan. (pads were installed using the silicone to avoid squeaking too)
    Thank you in advance.
  • I have a Camray 91 and whenever I apply the brakes I get a vibration, or shim in the front wheels. This shim is a slight lateral vibration. What would cause such problem?
  • your brake rotors are warped. You either need to
    get them turned or get them replaced.
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    Before having the rotors turned or replaced, retorque the wheel lugs to the proper torque. Brake shudder is often caused by improperly tightened lug nuts.

    Mechanics routinely overtighten wheel lug nuts because they use an impact wrench. Wheels should only be installed with hand tools and the lug nuts progressively torqued to the proper value (usually 75-80 ft. lbs.) using a hand torque wrench.

    Don't let a mechanic first install the wheels with an impact wrench and then go back with a torque stick or torque wrench for final tightening. By then the nuts are already too tight and torqueing doesn't unloosen nuts. Just always insist on hand tools only.
  • I have a 95 Chevy Astro w/ 95000 miles. It has new front brake pads and everything else are original and in good condition. One task I have to perform every 5000 to 10000 miles is adjusting rear brakes. Front end tends to dive a lot when brake is applied and parking brake can not hold on 15 degree ramp. After I tighten the shoes it will work great for a while. Is this normal since my other cars (all FWD include Olds w/ 105000 mi) don't have this problem.
  • leonivleoniv Posts: 120
    Has anybody had any good or bad experiences with After-Market brake pads/rotors for the J30? I've been considering pads/rotors from local retailers here in Atlanta. I have no complaints with the factory Infiniti pads, just the price. $76.45 for just pads and $220 for a pair of rotors is kind of out there so I thought I could do better elsewhere. I've heard of some after-market pads squealing because of them being too hard. Whether this is true or not, I don't know. Any thoughts?
  • vac23vac23 Posts: 118
    Brand name after market brakes pads are just as good as OEM or better. You might want to try Bendix I have them on my car & they don't sqeak like the factory ones that were on there.
  • I have best luck with Performance Friction pads. They tend to produce more brake dust but brake feel and fade resistance are better than others I have tried. Service life is not longer than other aftermarket but it's lifetime warranty.
  • kcuvalakcuvala Posts: 1
    Recently, at my 50,000 mile service check up, I was told by the service dept that my 98 Volvo s70 will be in need of new front rotors and pads in 7,000 miles. I've owned several vehicles prior to the Volvo (mostly Honda models) and have exceeded 120,000 miles before having to replace rotors. Any Volvo owners out there who have replaced rotors at this mileage interval?? Thanks
  • gmiller5gmiller5 Posts: 2
    I thought like you, went to Midas, purchased their brake pads/rotors. Not a good move. Even though Midas has the lifetime guarantee on the pads. Check your options and see what the price difference is. If it isn't much, I would stick to the original parts.
  • snowmansnowman Posts: 540
    Has anybody used after market rotors and pads for late model Accords and got satisfactory results, if yes what is the brand name?
  • bill11770bill11770 Posts: 29
    i have a honda accord LX 96,4dr.,5spd.,rear drum brakes. i want to convert my rear brake to disc brake. is anybody know where i can parts that would fit bolt-on.
  • projectzx3projectzx3 Posts: 256
    I am getting a burning smell on my new car. i thought maybe my dealers service dept might have spilled some oil when they changed the o+f for the first time. but i had them check it. no leaks, no spills. i even checked it myself. recently, a friend told me ABS systems can give of fumes that smell similar to oil burning off say an exhaust manifold. i really don't think so as i own 2 other cars with ABS systems and never had or heard of anything like this. Can an ABS system on a car give off fumes that mimic burning oil?
  • projectzx3projectzx3 Posts: 256
    i didn't think so either. thanks
This discussion has been closed.