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Comments
When installing, I usually grind a bit off the replacement cylinder for clearance. With it in position, jam a tie rod pickle fork between the cylinder and axle flange to hold it in place, then use a 1 1/16" (I think) 12 point socket with a 12" extension and a hammer to tap the retainer clip into place. Obviously, don't hit it hard enough to distort the axle flange.
Btw, was thinking about you a couple of days ago when I replaced a heater hose/tube on a '92 Cavalier. Fun, huh? LOL
Metallic pads (usually) don't actually EAT the rotors but they DO rough them up and necessitate turning on a lathe at pad changes and THAT takes a lot of metal out of them ... making them even more prone to warping then they previously were.
--- Bror Jace
- customer has a brake pedal pulsation concern
- scoring of the braking surfaces exceeds .060"
- corrosion pitting is evident on the braking surfaces
Minor scoring or uneven discoloration are normal and do not require rotor resurfacing.
Heater hose -he-he-he. At least it's not me.
Thanks,
and have a good holiday, alcan.- Oh wait you are in Canada!!!!
Al
Happy holiday, ours was last weekend. :-)
2) If alloy wheels are used you can plainly see the type of brakes from the outside
3) View the wheels from underneath the car.
Got a digital camera? Put pics on your website and give us a link to look!
Have a corsica too, its a nightmare. every repair is always a big deal. its a needy piece of metal.
--- Bror Jace
(I have no familiarity with ABS, I don't know enough to even touch brakes with them.) Did he replace any crimped lines in back, and how about the cylinders?
Baldeagle5
Perhaps the wheels were tightened too much and there are bent...ummm...I don't know...shafts, bearings, etc. Try a free inspection with a suspension or wheel specialist...?
Dealer claims sound I hear are the front pads moving around in the calipers. Anybody else run into this problem. Is there a permanent fix?
I was told that the bolts were mad too tight, the caliphers on the brakes are stripped. What kinda price range to fix????
Any info is appreciated!
1. if anchoring holes can be rethreaded, what's a reasonable price?
2. if new anchoring points need to be welded, would that cost more than $500?
I am practically sleepless over this!!!Moving in less than 1 week to NC and have to drive everywhere in my car.
--- Bror Jace
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/
servicemmy1.cfm
So, it was probably a fluke. Sounds like the original pads were mis-sized. Brake parts are real cheap, especially if they're imported parts. I'm getting a binding in my 2000 Celica with 2000 miles on it. Probably a warped rotor, we'll see.
I had a 95 Stratus and had no rattling problem. I replaced the OEM pads with Bendix pads and still never had the problem. I sold the car with 95K miles, and never had brake problem, or any other problem for that matter.
The fix here, as I said, is upgraded pads. Stratus pads are one piece pads with no loose clips or shims, Very simple and straight forward. Good luck.
Were the pads your friend had changed out OEM/stock out of the factory.
These are the original pads on my car...hard to believe that this is common to all 2000ES'...there has to be a ton of these cars on the road...all rattling as the pads wear.