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Brake

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Comments

  • adc100adc100 Posts: 1,521
    Pulled the drum to check/clean brakes and found cyl leaking. Bought cylinder and removed parts. The cylinder can not be removed without major wheel disassembly!!!!! This car has given me nothing but fits. I suppose I could use a dremmel and remove some metal. The spring anchor posts have pins, that would allow clearance if removed, but that's ugly. Cyl really needs to be replaced-internal wear. What's the trick??????????????????????
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    They're pretty snug, huh? With the bleeder screw removed, and the flare nut too if the end of the line broke off, turn the axle flange so the back of a wheel stud isn't interfering. Then just play with the sucker till it comes out. It will, but barely.

    When installing, I usually grind a bit off the replacement cylinder for clearance. With it in position, jam a tie rod pickle fork between the cylinder and axle flange to hold it in place, then use a 1 1/16" (I think) 12 point socket with a 12" extension and a hammer to tap the retainer clip into place. Obviously, don't hit it hard enough to distort the axle flange.

    Btw, was thinking about you a couple of days ago when I replaced a heater hose/tube on a '92 Cavalier. Fun, huh? LOL
  • brorjacebrorjace Posts: 588
    Brass is used in brake linings as a 'scouring' agent. It makes a poor friction material as it has some 'self-lubricating' properties ... which is why it's used in door latches and locks. I think manufacturers can put brass in a lining without claiming that it's semi-metallic.

    Metallic pads (usually) don't actually EAT the rotors but they DO rough them up and necessitate turning on a lathe at pad changes and THAT takes a lot of metal out of them ... making them even more prone to warping then they previously were.

    --- Bror Jace
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Yep, the brass is there to act as a friction modifier and to reduce rotor glazing. Same as in clutch disc facings. Actually, rotors should not be resurfaced unless one of the following conditions exists:
    - customer has a brake pedal pulsation concern
    - scoring of the braking surfaces exceeds .060"
    - corrosion pitting is evident on the braking surfaces
    Minor scoring or uneven discoloration are normal and do not require rotor resurfacing.
  • adc100adc100 Posts: 1,521
    Just for the hell of though I'm going to polish out the cyl a little better and give the rebuild kit a try. Who knows- I may get lucky. My patience is maxed out for now.

    Heater hose -he-he-he. At least it's not me.

    Thanks,
    and have a good holiday, alcan.- Oh wait you are in Canada!!!!

    Al
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    They can be frustrating and they're a tight squeeze, but they will come out. Sorta like some starters that you swear the car was built around. No way on Earth it'll come outta there until you happen to jiggle it just the with way, then WHAM!!, right in the forehead. AARGGH, YOU (many expletives deleted, this is a family channel)!!!! LOL

    Happy holiday, ours was last weekend. :-)
  • randyt2randyt2 Posts: 81
    Is there an easy way to check whether a car has rear disc or drum brakes without removing the tires? I admit that I am mechanically challenged. I tried looking at Fords website for the car but I couldn't find any specific information on the brakes.
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 817
    1) The cost of the car can be an indicator

    2) If alloy wheels are used you can plainly see the type of brakes from the outside

    3) View the wheels from underneath the car.

    Got a digital camera? Put pics on your website and give us a link to look! :)
  • deebob77deebob77 Posts: 4
    to adc100

    Have a corsica too, its a nightmare. every repair is always a big deal. its a needy piece of metal.
  • adc100adc100 Posts: 1,521
    "needy piece of metal"...I like that. They are a decent car though-and served us well. I have a '92 an '94, both program cars. They are still in the extended family.
  • brorjacebrorjace Posts: 588
    Randyt2, look into the wheel well. All wheels have some holes or slots in them. If you see part of a round, shiny disk (8-10" in diameter), that indicates disc brakes. A complete lack of anything shiny (just painted or rusted surfaces) means drum brakes ... found only on the rear of many cars these days.

    --- Bror Jace
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    Can anyone out there explain why the rear discs (vented) would be larger in diameter than the front (vented)? The front has the most stopping power, so why a smaller disc in front? I brought this up in another topic and one gentleman mentioned a difference in caliper technology, he meant something like twin piston calipers (which makes sense) or caliper size or brake pad size. What's really puzzling to me is, it's on a 4500 lb. SUV......any thoughts?
  • randyt2randyt2 Posts: 81
    Thanks to the people who responded. I did look through the alloy wheels. It was a drum. Didn't expect it, but that's fine.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    My guess would be that if it's equipped with a towing package there'd be more weight on the rear when trailering. That'd provide more rear tire traction and the rear brakes could contribute more to the total stopping power. Just speculation. Does it have a rear height-sensing proportioning valve? Btw, what vehicle are we talking about?
  • raydahsraydahs Posts: 449
    It's an Isuzu Trooper, one of the owners noticed that the hub diameter was larger in the rear than the front, which would require the disc diameter to be larger. In the future, I should look farther than the obvious, Thanks for your response.
  • abeachleyabeachley Posts: 1
    I have a 96 Astro van with 101,000 miles. For the past 2 months, there has been a sporadic problem with the rear shoes locking up after driving at least 30 minutes at higher speeds on an interstate highway. When I enter a reduced speed zone and come to a complete stop, the shoes(sometimes) will not disengage from the drums resulting in the dragging of the rear wheel (driver's side) for several feet. My mechanic saw where there were lines on the brake drums so he replaced the shoes & cylinders and turned the drums. One week later, it began happening again. Is this an ABS problem that can be solved? Help!
  • I purchased this car 3 years ago, starting having problems with the front brakes sticking on about two years ago. I have replaced calipers, pads, brake lines, master cylinder and the porportioning valve over the space of about a year. The problem seemed to disappear for awhile with each part replacement but now that I have a complete new brake system it has still come back. It seems to move from one front side to the next and then back. Has anyone experienced these brake problems. I don't think there is anything else to replace. Any suggestions?
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 817
    Abeachley: Do you have anti-lock on the rears?
    (I have no familiarity with ABS, I don't know enough to even touch brakes with them.) Did he replace any crimped lines in back, and how about the cylinders?

    Baldeagle5
    Perhaps the wheels were tightened too much and there are bent...ummm...I don't know...shafts, bearings, etc. Try a free inspection with a suspension or wheel specialist...?
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    Have the rear brake hardware replaced, old springs will not pull the shoes in like they did when new. Make sure the backing plates are not wore through on the pads the shoes ride on, get some brakes grease and smear it on the wear pads for the shoes. If all else fails have the e-brake cable inspected before diving into the ABS system for answers.
  • rpaquetrpaquet Posts: 1
    I bought nissan brake pads from the dealer. They looked different than the originals. They were shaped slightly different with a black lacquer coating that made them look remanufactured. The package they came in had a nissan U.S. facility address on it. They seem to give off a lot of brake dust. Does anyone know what nissan supplies their dealerships regarding replacement parts?
  • cruisingcruising Posts: 9
    I own a 2000 Dodge Stratus ES with 30,000 miles on the original brakes. Lately I'm hearing a metallic rattle like sound coming from the front of car when driving over tar strips,etc.

    Dealer claims sound I hear are the front pads moving around in the calipers. Anybody else run into this problem. Is there a permanent fix?
  • agoodwineagoodwine Posts: 5
    Trying to get a better feel for repair charges....
    I was told that the bolts were mad too tight, the caliphers on the brakes are stripped. What kinda price range to fix????

    Any info is appreciated!
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    It depends on whether you can re-thread the anchoring holes that hold the caliper. If not, maybe this could be a big hassle--if you had to weld in new anchoring points into the body. I'd have to see it up close to know how exactly your calipers are attached. ONe thing you can do is take the shop that did the brakes last time to Small Claims Court for using gorilla torque on your poor caliper bolts.
  • agoodwineagoodwine Posts: 5
    The next thing I need to know is...

    1. if anchoring holes can be rethreaded, what's a reasonable price?

    2. if new anchoring points need to be welded, would that cost more than $500?

    I am practically sleepless over this!!!Moving in less than 1 week to NC and have to drive everywhere in my car.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Well, I just couldn't say more without seeing the car...I would think that unless the damage was really severe, the anchoring holes could be re-threaded....but this brings up all kinds of legal issues and that might snag the whole repair. The dealer or shop might have to go way overboard in order to protect themselves. They may insist on all new parts, including whatever suspension parts hold the anchoring points.
  • brorjacebrorjace Posts: 588
    Would Helicoil be a possibility in this situation??

    --- Bror Jace
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Nah, you are talking dangerous stuff here....you have to go whole hog on a fix.
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    Are just the bolts stripped out, like the head where the wrench goes on, or in? Or is it the holes that the bolts screw into? Some GM cars have a bracket that unbolts from the hub and that is what the caliper bolts to, if that's the case it should be an easy fix,no welding, just unbolting the old and replacing with new. I know for sure that that is how the Olds Aleros, and Buick LeSabre and being the sister, and cousin cars to the Grand Am I would imagine they would be the same. If it's not like that then I would require the WHOLE steering hub be replaced, not just welded up to fix it, and that will be big money. Replacement of the hub is a big job, it means disconnecting the tie rods, struts, half shats and lower ball joint, but will be the best overall fix if you can't just replace the bracket. I would not even think of having a welded brake component, only the original will do the job safely. Can the caliper be removed? Once the caliper is removed if the rotor is still trapped under the caliper bracket, you should be able to replace just the bracket, so it shouldn't be a really big deal to fix. If you are not sure about wether the shop is BS ing you take it to the dealer, they will more that likely have a fix for the problem, and besides if it is damaged they can get the parts fast and the techs should be able to restore it to like new condition. Another thing I do is use a dab of silicone caliper grease on the bolts to keep them from seizing in the threads, since they are dissimilar metals, steel and aluminum and likely to react to one another.
  • 95tahoe95tahoe Posts: 4
    I have a 1995 Chevy Tahoe 4X4 that has recently developed an infrequent problem of the ABS coming on when I press on the brakes. This is happening under normal driving conditions, and the ABS light does not come on. I have checked the brake fluid level and it is fine. I'm not sure what else to do or check. Could anyone help?
  • jgmilbergjgmilberg Posts: 872
    Jack the truck up and spin the wheels, you are checking for a hanging up caliper or brake shoe. This will stop that wheel first making the computer think the brakes are locking up and the ABS kick in. Better yet take it to a shop like Belle Tire and have them do the free brake inspection. If everything checks out OK then see if you are hitting a series of small bumps, thats what does it for my wife's S-10.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Would a bad sensor also do this?
  • cruisingcruising Posts: 9
    Lately I've heard a metallic rattle coming from front disc brakes on my 2000 Dodge Stratus. Dealer claims what I hear is the result of brake pads moving around in calipers. Dealer fix...replace pads. Anybody encounter this type of problems. Sounds like it is possible..as the pads get thinner the clearance between pad and caliper increase.
  • guitarzanguitarzan OhioPosts: 817
    I didn't see a service bulletin about it.

    http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/

    servicemmy1.cfm


    So, it was probably a fluke. Sounds like the original pads were mis-sized. Brake parts are real cheap, especially if they're imported parts. I'm getting a binding in my 2000 Celica with 2000 miles on it. Probably a warped rotor, we'll see.

  • jodar96jodar96 Posts: 400
    OK. The dealer said the pads are moving around. They are NOT supposed to move around AND make noise at the same time. Take your car back to the dealer, and tell them to check for some bulletin that was issued that tells them they must use the upgraded pads that have tighter tolerance so they the pads don't make the chattering noise. My co worker's 2000 ES had the same trouble. The dealer told him "All Stratus and Neons have cheap brakes, and all make this noise"! I want to choke a dealer machanic that makes a statement like this. I went to the dealer with him, and told them what they needed to do.

    I had a 95 Stratus and had no rattling problem. I replaced the OEM pads with Bendix pads and still never had the problem. I sold the car with 95K miles, and never had brake problem, or any other problem for that matter.

    The fix here, as I said, is upgraded pads. Stratus pads are one piece pads with no loose clips or shims, Very simple and straight forward. Good luck.
  • cruisingcruising Posts: 9
    Thanks for the insight.

    Were the pads your friend had changed out OEM/stock out of the factory.

    These are the original pads on my car...hard to believe that this is common to all 2000ES'...there has to be a ton of these cars on the road...all rattling as the pads wear.
This discussion has been closed.