Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!





Howdy, Stranger!

It looks like you're new here. If you want to get involved, click one of these buttons!

Did you get a great deal? Let us know in the Values & Prices Paid section!
Meet your fellow owners in our Owners Clubs

Brake

135

Comments

  • I'm hearing squealing from the front of my van
    when I brake. I'm assuming the front brakes need
    replacement. I'm going to bring it in to my local
    Goodyear(in CA) but I'd like to have an idea of
    what it costs so I won't get ripped off.
    Is there any other service normally done at the
    same time?(rotors,etc)
    My 98 Grand Voyager has 37k,I bought it at 27k and have not done
    anything to the brakes since.
    Do the rear brakes also squeal when they need
    replacement?
  • vivonavivona Posts: 410
    When it is time to replace pads, the rotors should be checked with a dial indicator to verify that runout and thickness variation are within specifications. Then the surface should be inspected to see if it meets smoothness specs. If all is okay, the rotor should not be touched.

    If the rotor does not meet specifications, it should be turned using a caliper-mounted lathe to assure that the runout is zero with the rotor mounted on the hub. This will assure you do not get brake pedal pulsation 3,000-5,000 miles later.

    I have easily gotten over 100,000 miles on my cars without ever having to turn or replace a rotor.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Do not refinish rotors when doing routine maintenance work, such as replacing worn disc brake pads. Refinish a rotor only under the following circumstances:

    1. there is a complaint of brake pulsation.

    2. there is scoring greater than 1.5 mm (0.060 in.)

    Source: 1996 Aurora/Riviera factory service manual
  • I appreciate the rotor care info.
    I been led to believe that even if braking feels fine, rotor surface should be re-textured a little with fine grain emery paper. This this is not required,I would rather avoid it durring routine pad replacement.
  • I've got a '96 Saturn SL with 49K miles, never had a brake job. Dealer says front brakes need to be done soon, but not the rear. They say you usually go through 2 sets of front brakes in the time it takes to go through 1 set of rear brakes. My question is - should I have the dealer do the service? These O.E. brakes have lasted a very long time, and I'm wondering if another set from the dealer would last just as long. They want about $180 for the front brakes. Or should I go to Midas or another brake shop to have it done? Who does the best job for the money?
  • vac23vac23 Posts: 118
    If you go the aftermarket way & get a good qaulity brand name pads, they should last just as long. Dealers usually charge too much. The last time I changed a set of pads, it costs me $25 for a set of Bendix pads & less then an hr of my time. I've also had brake work done by midas & they were pretty decent in price & the pads were just as good.
  • cc15cc15 Posts: 5
    Mine is a new Honda civic I got last week. Every time after I started the car, drove reversely and then forward, it made a rubbing noise, very short. The saleman told me that it was because the Anti-brake system. Is it true?

    One of my friend has a Honda SUV, which also has ABS. But hers doesn't make any noise.

    The dealer tried to cheat on me when I went to pick up my car by adding a few hundred dollars to my financing paper. They gave me the seller's copy instead of the buyer's copy. When I went back to talk to them, I found they didn't even give me the sale's order. This is the first time I went to buy a car myself. They didn't explain any thing, just asked me to sign all the papers and sent me out in about 6 or 7 minutes. The way they treated me made me feel something wasn't right. Right now I'm not sure whether they told me the truth about the ABS thing. I don't trust them any more.
  • I did go to Goodyear to get the front brakes done. They charged 120 plus 40 to turn the rotors. I feel like it's too much. I would just as well do it myself, since it takes time anyway to drop off the car and pick it up, but I'm a little nervous to get involved with the brakes.
  • pat455pat455 Posts: 603
    If you'd like, you can stop by our active Honda Civic Problems topic and ask your question there as well. There is an experienced Honda tech hanging out there who may have a thought for you.

    Pat
    Community Leader/Maintenance & Repair Conference
  • Hi,
    I'm doing a full brake job on a 1990 Pontiac 6000 SE with Antilock Brake System (ABS) and All Wheel Drive (AWD). Initial problem was ABS light on all the time for over a year according to my son the driver/owner, however car stopped OK. Recently the brake pedal would go to the floor and car would not stop.
    Found that left front caliper was blown and fluid was leaking all over the place and caliper would not operate at all.
    Disconnected battery and followed instructions to drop pressure in ABS.
    Have replaced both L & R front calipers w/pads, flex hoses to calipers and L&R front Rotors. Back disk brakes look good. (Parts from PepBoys: excellent price and warranty).
    Started to bleed brakes at right rear wheel and cannot get any fluid to pump through to rear with assistant operating bleeder valve. Brake pedal still goes all the way to floor and Reservoir is full.
    What is going on with this system? Do I need to have ABS operational to bleed brakes? By the way, Pontiac dealer says that master cylinder will cost about $2000 because it includes all ABS pumps and valves and is not a repairable unit.

    Suggestions would be appreciated.
    Thanks,
    GASHOG
  • My suggestion is to get a service manual; you may find one at:
    http://www.ebay.com

    I'd also check the BAauto site:
    http://www.batauto.com/main_nn4.html

    Hope this helps.
  • ....cause the problem you mentioned if the ABS is working correctly, and maybe not at all. You certainly identified an untrustworthy dealer, and I am surprised you went thru on the deal.
  • ataieataie Posts: 84
    just bought an old, I mean OLD (1958) Mercedes with 4 drum brakes ALL around. RT front wheel was locked up. It was the brake cylinders (it has two on each wheel). I replaced those, and the brake shoes.

    I've replaced many brake pads but this is my first on the drum brakes. My question is when I go to put the drum back on, it doesn't fit as smoothly as I thought. The brake shoes seem to be pushed in as much as possible, so what am I missing here??

    I don't see any adjustment screw or anything. there are two cylinder one on top, and one on the bottom, each has a pin on it which is pushing in the opposite direction. There are two springs one close to the top and one close to the bottom, connected between the shoes.

    thanks for your assistance,
  • my 944 emergency brake button has popped off and the spring located inside the brake handle has also come off. Does anyone know how to fix this?
  • bobs5bobs5 Posts: 557
    I don't have Mercedes experience, but had 4 wheel drums on an old 63 ford falcon.

    I would think there would be kind of an adjustment screw or star wheel which would need to be turned so that the pad are at the smallest diameter in order for the drum to fit.

    Would the emergency brake have to be loosened a little bit to get more clearance?
  • nds1nds1 Posts: 5
    I have 1996 Nissan Maxima SE. It runs great and I
    am happy with it. Recently I got the 60,000 mile
    service done at the Nissan dealer. They cleaned the brakes during that service. Since then when ever I hit the brakes and the car is about to make a complete stop I hear the sound at the front right wheel. I took it to the dealer where I got the service done. He basically could not figure out and started telling me that is from suspension and later on started telling me that I need to get the brakes done. I double checked with the
    Firestone/Mastercare. The technician mentioned that the brakes are fine and still has more than 60%. But the sound is still there. They say it could be shocks/struts & .... So far no body is able to figure out the problem. Your advise on this greatly appreciated. This has not stopped me from enjoying the comfort of driving this Maxima, its just annoying sometimes.
    NDS
  • nds1nds1 Posts: 5
    Actually I hear the sound on left side and not right side.
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    What sound are you hearing, a high pitched squeal or a grinding sound?
  • ford 1 tons i'v been having problems with pedal fade or soft pedal and most if the time its after doin g basic brake work and however checking abs system control valve chassis mount and rear sensors pressure bleeding replacing master cylinders pressure valves on master cylinders and still soft pedal but vehichle will stop as soon as you start appling pressure but pedal goes to floor and when customers pulls trailers hard to stop. ase master tech 22years whats up?
  • My Tahoe brakes faded twice. When coming to a stop I pressed the brake pedal and just rolled under the stop light. I released the brake and tried again and it worked fine, I had no anti-lock brake light warning. Can someone tell me what may be the problem. By the way I only have 12,000 miles on the tahoe and the fluid tank is full.
  • nds1nds1 Posts: 5
    I hear a high pitched squeal. Not all the time. Only at the point of complete stop.
  • dick2kdick2k Posts: 1
    My 88 Acura Legend is emitting a kind of grinding noise. I can disable the ABS by removing the fuse that controls the system,thereby stopping the noise and turning on the ABS light on the dash, however that's very unsafe, and I won't drive my car without the ABS. Any suggestions as to what causes this, and how much to repair?
    Thanks to anyone who can advise.
  • I'm no pro, but did you separately bleed the master cylinder before installing?
  • I recently bought a 94' villager with 46,000K. Today while driving, it developed a very strong chatter in the front end that would come and go which had happened before. After a while, I smelled brakes and stopped, but not before the front left wheel was smoking and very hot. The caliper probably stuck or the hydraulic hose to he caliper got plugged. After an hour, the wheel had cooled and the chattering had stopped once I was on the road. When I go home and removed the caliper, there was minor scoring on the metallic pads and some chatter marks on the rotor. When the right wheel pads and rotor were checked, there were chatter marks on the rotor but the pads were fine and new looking. I am going to turn both rotors and replace both sets of pads and replace the left caliper and caliper supply hose.
    Questions:
    1) Did the left wheel caliper problem cause the chatter marks on the right wheel rotor or are chatter marks (not lines or scoring) normal?
    2) Or is the problem in the master cylinder or ABS system?
  • I purchased a 1999 Ford Crown Victoria LX new in August of 1999. I have brought it back to two dealers due to squeaky brakes. Both the dealer where I purchased the car, and another dealer out of disgust since the brakes have never stopped squeaking. I cannot understand why this problem cannot be fixed. Both dealers said I have to "live with it." That is a bad response to me who spent $27,000 on a beautiful car, that I love except for the squeaky brakes. It makes the car look inferior. I have owned Fords for years, and have been satisfied, but this brake problem has been driving me nuts since the car hit approx. 8,000 miles. The rear pads were even replaced at about that time. Now the car has approx. 15,000 miles and this problem still exists....I don't want to have to "live with it." Can anyone help me out? I have written to Ford and I have not received a response yet. Please contact me at [email protected]
  • gt10gt10 Posts: 2
    I have a 1995 Pontiac Bonneville, with abs brakes.
    The brake light comes on while we are driving,The car stops fine. The brakes pads have meat on them and I don;t see any leaks around the wheels. The fluid level seems ok. Any suggestion before I run the car into the shop. My guess is master cyclinder but how do you verify this and what a may the cost be if it is.
    Thanks
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    First, I'm assuming you're referring to the amber ABS light, not the red brake warning light. Your ABS system consists of wheel speed sensors, a control module which detects wheel lock-up, and a hydraulic pressure modulator which reduces pressure to the appropriate calipers during ABS events. If the ABS fails, the system reverts to the foundation braking system with loss of ABS function only. If the brakes work normally other than no ABS, the master cylinder is NOT the cause of the problem. Can't remember offhand whether yours is the Delco Moraine VI or Teves IV system, but in either case the problem will likely be a wheel speed sensor (usually right front) or hydraulic modulator failure.

    Now for the bad news:

    front wheel speed sensor, about $200.00 (integral with wheel bearing/hub assembly)

    Hydraulic modulator, about $1,000.00
  • gt10gt10 Posts: 2
    Alcan Thanks for the response
    It's not the abs brake light but the red parking light. I'm not a car expert but a friend noticed
    a slight leak at the master cylinder which probably ran my fluid low but not much but I guess enough to trigger off the sensor, After thinking about it the light went on when we where going up or down a hill, I added some fluid and it seems fine so far, but one thing he said I found interesting that he said master cylinders will leak slightly. Is there truth to this or is it time to replace it. The leakage I saw was very slight.

    Again thanks for your time, George
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    If the master cylinder is leaking it should be replaced. Manufacturers say a slight amount of seepage out of the rear (enough to cause dampness and attract dust) is acceptable, and will provide rear seal and bore lubrication, but enough to cause droplets to appear is excessive. If you get the master cylinder replaced, insist on a new one as opposed to a reman one and have the shop flush all the old fluid out of the system while they're at it.
  • Well I did everything I mentioned in #129 and it
    seemed to work ok, but the same thing happened
    again and I had it towed to the shop. They worked
    on it all day and have come down to the conclusion
    that it's either the master cylinder or the ABS
    distributor which cost about 600.00 plus labor. The
    mechanic said that it appears that the left front
    and right rear brakes aren't releasing. That if he
    loosens a brake line connection anywhere at all the
    brakes release. The mechanic was going to try and
    look up some old service bulletins for more info on
    an exact diagnoses. If any good mechanics out
    there have any ideas, please post a message. Also
    what would you think about getting a used ABS
    regulator at the junk yard. Would a regulator from
    a different year Villager work?
  • We purchased, new from a dealership, a 2000 Chevrolet Express with now 36k+ miles at one year. We experienced a shuttering going down the interstate and felt that the brakes were sticking. We took it to a dealership and have been told that there is oil in the brake system and it has destroyed it(we have yet to figure out HOW oil has gotten into the system). It will cost $3,000 to fix! The brake system has never been serviced (the brake pads look sooo good they didn't really believe us that the brakes had not been changed out or TOUCHED!) and they tell us that the van's brake system runs independently so there is no way the oil got in through the engine. Can anyone give any assistance as to HOW this happened?
  • oldharryoldharry Posts: 413
    On the one ton Fords, some excess pedal travel with new brakes is normal and will go away in a few hundred miles. A lot, or pedal going to floor is serious! With new brakes the pads do not fully align with the rotors, that is, the edge nearest the outer edge (or inner edge) may touch first and the caliper flex in its mounts to provide contact with the remaining area of the pad. You can determine if this is the problem by drawing a few radial lines on the disk with a marker. Roll slowly and stop very gently a couple times in the parking lot and look under the truck with a flash light. If part but not all of the line is erased that's it. Hard braking will erase the whole line. As soon as they wear in the problem disappears.

    Other possibly more serious causes could be:

    Improper machining of rotors causes run out and spreads the pads excessively.

    Surfaces of pads "fuzzy" from factory surfacing, and compress during braling. (this will go away)

    Loose wheel bearings

    Worn mounting hardware

    New/rebuilt calipers have air bubbles, did you tap on the calipers with a tool to dislodge any bubbles while bleeding?

    Rear brake shoes not arced to drums. Many shops no longer do this as crowned shoes are supposed to wear in quickly, but they do make the pedal soft for a while.

    Some brands of pads are semi-cured and will finish curing during use. These can compress a little during hard stops initially.

    Something else ??? I found I still find new problems in things I've worked on for four decades.

    Harry
  • I posted this question on the MB E Class site and I don't think I received the correct response: the front brakes on my 01 E320 makes a "eh" noise at the last moment of braking - when the front end of the car lifts itself back, also, when the brake is released from a stop. I've heard the same noise from other manufacturers' car with automatic transimission (cars with manual transimission tend not to have the same condition because you can disengage the
    transmission from the forward motion during
    braking). This is NOT a sharp grinding noise
    between metal parts. My dealer already tried to
    clean the brakes and lube the sway bar, but that
    didn't help. This is the same noise when your car
    is stopped on an incline and if you momentarily
    release the brakes, the car's front end tends to
    make that "eh" noise. Does anybody have the same
    experience? Your comments are much appreciated.
    BTW, my car now has 1800 miles and it starts to
    make this noise since day 1. Will this condition
    disappear after the brakes are "broken-in"?
  • ayratayrat Posts: 26
    I'm not quite familiar with specific terminology, so please excuse Me, here is my problem:

    During the break test at inspection station (normal conditions, no ABS engaged)it was found that breaks on my Pont Bonneville'92 are working only on Left front and rear Right wheels( though still providing sufficient deceleration).
    I'm trying to understand if it could be somehow related to ABS or is just a regular breaks problem(like master cylinder or air/water in the system?). My breaks are having a "low pedal" syndrome, but at the moment when ABS is engaged pedal stays high while vibrating till car stops. Sometimes after that the "low pedal" syndrome disappears for short time, but it happens very intermittently.
    This days everything is covered with snow here so I had a chance to see ABS in work (though i do not know if the car still stops with only those two wheels)

    Let Me ask you another thing: in conditions when you apply the break pedal and ABS is engaged, does ABS only provide modulated anti-pressure to prevent locking, or it is also provides positive pressure along with your foot stepped on pedal?

    Regards,
    ayrat
  • I purchased my 1999 Grand Am in August, 1999 (new from the dealer).

    At 8,654 miles (March 2000), a Pontiac service department replaced all brake pads and resurfaced my rotors. I brought the car into the shop because it was difficult to stop the car when I applied the brakes, and the car would pulsate when the brakes were applied at high speeds.

    In November 2000, I again took my car into a Pontiac service department. The front right passenger seat would not lock into place. Also, the rear left bumper is detaching from the body panel (gap between bumper and panel). The Pontiac service department claims that there is nothing they can do to fix the bodywork issue.

    At 17,717 miles (December 2000), all brake pads were replaced and the rotors resurfaced again (the car was making a high pitched squeaking noise, which turned out to be an indicator of worn out brake pads). The front right passenger pad was completely worn down to the metal. The other pads were not worn as drastically as this pad was worn. The Pontiac service department claims that there is nothing wrong with the brake system.

    Clearly, this is not normal brake wear and tear. Something is wrong with (at least) the front passenger brake configuration to cause the pad to wear down to nothing.

    Now, in January 2001, there is a leak coming from the head gasket. Also, an independent brake shop finds potential issues with the regulator valve on the brakes. My car is difficult to stop even with the new brake pads and resurfaced rotors. Again, two different Pontiac service departments claim that there is nothing wrong with the braking system or with the regulator valve. In addition, when I turn off the car and remove the key, a random chime sounds. This only started a couple of weeks ago.

    How can it be possible that this many issues are happening to a new car with less than 18,000 miles? Why can't any of the Pontiac service departments fix the brake issue?

    I have seen similar issues posted to this board - has anyone actually been able to solve these through Pontiac / GM or the lemon laws?
  • Toyota Tacoma's are available with ABS braking as an option for an additional $590. I was wondering if it would be worth it. Any thoughts?
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    Get it, then LEARN HOW TO USE IT. I regularly read anecdotal, urban legend type posts from people who claim the ABS did this and the ABS did that. In almost all cases (except for some integral units) the problem is customer perception of the system in action. Yes the pedal will get hard, it's supposed to. Yes you will probably feel pedal pulsation, it's supposed to. But in virtually any situation other than on loose surfaces it WILL stop the vehicle in a shorter distance. And retain steering control. Btw, be sure to have the brake fluid flushed every 2 years. Those $1,000 pressure modulators don't like dirty, moisture laden fluid.
  • There is no doubt in my mind that ABS brakes work well. I am not sure if I will pay extra for them. With ABS system prices coming down, I don't understand why it is not standard on all cars by now.

    If GM can offer it in all its cars except some of Lumina and Impala's as standard equipment, Every one else should. We should give GM credit for making the system standard in all its cars. while Toyota wants some $500-800 depending on the models.

    With ABS system, you should brake as you do with regular brake, and don't back off. Get used to all the ABS noise, vibration, and pulsation by driving on snowy and icy parking lot for a little while, and get the hang of it.

    Do NOT PUMP YOUR BRAKES WITH ABS.
  • I had my brakes checked during some maintenance work on my 97 Nissan Quest Mini van, and the receipt I received for the maintenance work (no brake work was performed) said that the pads had this much left: 6/32 and 8/32. What does this mean? I can't get hold of the mechanic to ask him (he's always busy). These numbers don't tell me how much is left on the pads! Does anyone know what it indicates? I do have alot of brake dust on my wheels, but the mechanic said it was "normal with the new type pads". Thanks for anyone's help!!
  • I am hearing this sweal when I am driving, not when applying my brakes. I am positive that it is time for a brake job, but I have never owned a vehicle long enough to go through brake pads. So I am not sure if this means I need new pads.

    I know that there is supposed to be this squeak noise when your pads get low but I thought it just happened when you applied the brakes. Does it happen when you are driving as well?

    Next question: I checked my rotors and they look great and the brakes work great. Is a brake job as simple as dropping in new pads if your rotors are ok? Or is it more involved than that.

    Bendex pads will only cost me $35. but the dealer has a deal for $70. Should I do the job myself? is it that easy? BOW, I am mechanically inclined.

    Thanks guys

    Truck
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    As brake pads wear down, audible wear sensors will usually start squealing with the brakes released and stop when the pedal's depressed. As pads wear more, aplying the brakes will no longer stop the squeal. Lower speed brake squeal with the brakes applied ONLY is usually caused by pads vibrating in the caliper and tends to be more pronounced in damp/wet weather. To reduce squeal in wet weather be sure to install insulators behind the pads (may be already attached, packaged with the pads, or purchased separately). Service caliper mounting bushings/slides as required, and use approved hi temp brake lube only.
  • Changing pads alone is very easy. What kind of car do you have? Some cars are very easy; lke our 97 Dodge Caravan, or some have several anti rattle clips, and several back and front plates like Toyota Camry, But I have not seen any of them that is really a challenge.

    You need:

    a 7.0" Clamp,
    sockets or allen wrenches to fit your caliper mounting bolts,
    high temp grease to lube your caliper mounting bolts,
    brake parts spray to wash off brake dust on pads, calipers, and rotors,
    rubbing alcohol to wipe your rotors before mounting the calipers, and
    Anti squeal/squeak paste.

    Take it easy the first 100-150 miles of driving when you stop. Barke pads need break in period. After the pad replacement, drive up to 30MPH and stop. repeat this some 10-15 times. Hard and sudden stops make your brake pads galze, which reduces brakes effectiveness long term.

    Good luck.
  • I have had 3 cars with abs brakes. I've had trouble with all of them. They involve hard to find troubles, usually involving expensive repairs.. 7 hundred to 2 thousand for G.M. I find it very frustrating to be at some dealer's mercy, and I worked as a mechanic years ago, and still can't fix them. I know they're supposed to be safer, I think I'll take my chances with the non abs. I like safety, but the frustration isn't worth it. Regards to all: Leo
  • microrepairmicrorepair Eastern MassachusettsPosts: 508
    My E320 came up with a "Brake Pad Wear" message yesterday so it must be time to replace the pads at a minimum. These pads have about 38K miles so I guess that is about normal for the "soft" pads in the Mercedes.
    I've never worked on Mercedes brakes, but have replaced drums, pads, and rotors on numerous other US and foreign cars. So the question to you folks is: Are there any significant differences from Mercedes disc brakes to GM, Mazda, Fiat, or Chrysler, which are the brands I've worked on before. ? Anything to watch out for so I don't get stranded over the weekend with a car in my garage that can't be moved?
    Also, has anyone got experience with non-MB pads such as Bendix or Bosch (do they even make pads?) ?
    Thanks...
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    I think you need to at least look over the repair manual to be sure. For instance, I do know that there are certain cars where the caliper pistons SCREW in and out,(well, more accurately, move in and out on an eccentric) rather than just move in and out. So what happens is that the owner tries to press them in to make room for the pads and damages the piston.

    Maybe the Benz is like most "normal" cars, but I'd sure check. German engineers like to do things twice and complicated as they need to be sometimes...

    By the way, I think 38K is outstanding mileage for those brake pads. You must be a careful driver, or at least one who doesn't burn up brakes (or maybe you live on the flats?)
  • microrepairmicrorepair Eastern MassachusettsPosts: 508
    If I could find a decent repair manual for the "new" E-class, I'd be a happy camper.. I've not had any luck finding anything that discusses the E in any detail good enough to guide you through repairs.
    Thanks for the hint on the pistons, I think I ran into that on one of the cars I worked on maybe 15 years ago. I agree on the German design philosophy, which is why I figured I better ask before I start to tear things apart. I've noticed other things on the car that are overdesigned and I'm guessing I'll see more of the same in the brake system too.
    I did the math again and yes, it's been 38K since the pads were replaced when I bought the car as part of the Starmark overhaul. I don't consider myself a conservative driver, but I sure don't ride the brake pedal either. I use them hard and then get off them. But you're right, from what I hear, Benz pads are intentionally soft to reduce the overheating effect on the rotors..And therefore don't last as long as harder pad materials.
  • brorjacebrorjace Posts: 588
    Microrepair, I'm not sure who's making Benz pads these days. When I was in the friction materials business it was "Textar" which are really good ... but expensive and/or hard to find unless you went to the dealership (Ugh!).

    You'll probably be happy with the better grades of Raybestos, Bendix or Spectra One (made by Ferodo). I put a set of Spectras on my Honda (because I know Ferodo makes good stuff) and am reasonable happy with them. I doubt they'll last nearly 100,000 miles like the OEM (Nissin) Honda pads did but I wanted to try something a little different. The only other complaitn I have with them is that they are a little dustier.

    If you want to go high-performance aftermarket, Axxis brake pads (formerly Repco Metalmaster) are a safe bet. They are just a tick better at fade resistance than OEM and are generally quiet and dust-resistant to boot. Raybestos came out with a heavy, heavy duty pad called the "Brute Stop" which I might try if my Spectras wear out. I had heard that these newer, more expensive pads might even have some carbon fiber in them which will make them really good performers ... if

    --- Bror Jace
  • alcanalcan Posts: 2,550
    I've used Brute Stop pads. Very little fade under repeated hard braking but they're not very kind to rotors. To me the tradeoff is worth it.
  • brorjacebrorjace Posts: 588
    Alcan, I did a brake job on my Civic last summer using Spectra One pads and lightly resurfaced original rotors. This spring, when I switch my summer/winter tires around, I'll check the pads for wear.

    If I have to do another brake job before getting rid of the car, I'm gonna use the Raybestos Brute Stop pads. My original rotors will have well over 100,000 miles on them by then and I won't bother turning them again. So, I don't care how abarasive the pads are. If, for some reason the rotors get chewed up, so be it. 150,000+ miles is plenty to get out of a set of rotors.

    I'm fairly surprised mine haven't warped by now. It must be all that highway driving that I do.
    >:^)

    --- Bror Jace
  • gasburnergasburner Posts: 31
    I have a 99 Explorer XLT V8, with the Sport Package. I have had good luck with my vehicle so far, but Ford service could be better. The one concern I do have though is the sound that the brakes make when stopping. When I 1st got the truck, the brakes seemed very loud when coming to a stop and when released. I brought it to the dealer and he said that the noise was normal but agreed to change the pads and turn the rotors. Well the new pads were even louder, and now for the first several stops after the truck sits for a while, the brakes grab and makes a shutter felt in the steering wheel (it feels similar to have driven through high water). The brakes seem to be working quite well except for this annoyance. Anybody experience this problem or can provide some input?
This discussion has been closed.