I bought my '99 Jetta brand new in May of 1999. Since then, I've had nothing but trouble. I have documented my repairs to the car and since '99 I have spent close to $13,000.00 fixing and repairing it. Just yesterday, my driver window broke. I remember when I fixed the back window it cost me around $600 to fix it. I don't know if it's time I get rid of this car or continue fixing its many problems... Has anybody out there experienced this much trouble with VW Jetta?
Your comments are very appreciated it will help me decide what to do!! HELP!
I say if it is TDI it would be worth fixing it. But as far as a gas car goes. I would try to pass it on. Although to get a decent price you will need to fix the window any way. So either way. Good luck.
I recently had my 'check engine' light checked out and the evap-purge (n-80) valve is defective and has to be replaced. Where is this valve located? Is it easy to replace? How do I replace it? Thanks
I recently purchased a 2007 Jetta automatic. I've noticed when I turn on the car the engine noise sounds loud. If you wait for a minute it slowly decreases to a "normal" level engine sound. I didn't notice the engine doing this while I was at the dealership (although, they were usually talking for a few minutes after your start the car so I'm not sure if it was always doing this and I just didn't notice). I'm just curious if anyone else has noticed this and if this is normal? I always wait until the noise has died down before I take off and the car runs fine. I formerly just had an automatic so I'm not sure if the automatic w/triptronic is what causes the initial rev? Any advice would be great. Thanks.
It's normal. The manual (boooklet 3.1, page 94...at least that is where it is in the 2005.5 manual) indicates it is related to the hydraulic valve lifters, so it is the engine not the transmission.
i have to agree with jeffyscott, i have a 1999 Jetta automatic, and it is "noisy" at start up (more so in the winter time) i have been told it is my lifters and just to make sure that the oil level kept at max. i too notice a drop in noise as soon as the engine has been running for a minute or so - longer in the cold. someone once told me that using a STP Oil treatment helps i've yet to try it on my next oil change
The rough sound is normal. Both of my Passats (my previous 1990 GL and my current 01.5 1.8T) idle a little rough at first cold crank but within a minute it sounds fine. I don't know why it does that, but I agree with joker55 that the engine is adjusting itself. I have a friend who has a new BMW 5-series and his does the same thing. I am guessing it probably has a lot to do with European/German technology because those cars are the ones that are more notable for running like that. Like you, I wait about 30 seconds to 1 minute to take off so the engine will have its chance to do its thing.
i've also put some Lucas in there as well so that it stays nice and coated and help with dry start up, small price to pay ($12 CAN) to keep the engine wear down to a minimum while its warming up, seems to be doing the job, but who knows for sure whats going on in that crazy engine lol
>Actually, the timing belt has been replaced, but the pullies and tensioners have not been.
If your car is a 2.0 8v, the pulley and tensioner is one in the same (tensioner pulley). In most cases the tensioner pulley should be replaced on every 2nd timing belt change.
If your car is a 1.8T, the pulley and tensioner are separate items, and failure to replace these at EVERY timing belt change can lead to disaster.
I am considering buying the above Jetta. It is five speed manual. It is one owner, and in decent shape. It drove fine on the test drive. No leaks or funny noise. Brakes felt fine, tires have 20K on them and there is no uneven wear.
When I took the filler cap off, it had some milky stuff under the oil cap and on the oil filler neck. The dip stick had only oil on it to correct level. No milky stuff on dipstick. I know often water in oil makes the milky color stuff, so does foamed oil...The oil filter looked like it was on for a while. What grade oil is used in the 2.0L engines? At what miles/months does the timing belt need replacing?
The guy does have all the maintenance records and repairs. I know some Jettas are great and some are lemons. This one appears to be well maintained.
It is not unusual for an engine which is driven short distances and not allowed to get hot. The condensation in the oil does have a chance to boil off. Instead, it forms an emulsion with the oil. To fix it, go on a 2 hour drive.
Beware that the 2000 2.0L engines tend to consume some oil when driven on the highway. This is not a problem as long as you check the oil level EVERY time you fill the gastank.
Both of my daughters have 2000 VWs (Gulf and NewBeetle) On a highway trip to Maine and back (over 6 hours highway driving) , the Gulf consumes about 1/2 a quart. She carries a case of 5W30 oil in the trunk.
I wholeheartedly endorse you to consider purchase of that car. (I would not have my 2 daughters in ANYTHING else) Are you aware that the 2000 VWs have airbags all around? (one of the safest small car for that year)
There are several other small items about the 2000 VWs which will need attention if they have not already been done. (example - just today, my daughter told me she received a recall for the brake-light switch.... I had told her last month to EXPECT it to arrive because her sisters car got the very same recall earlier)
I just talked to the local dealer service guy. He said the timing belt(and tensioner)in this engine must be changed at 80K miles. He said engine will be destroyed if the belt goes. I thought that was the case for 1.9L diesel, 1.8L T, and the V-6 engine. I thought the 2.0L engine had free spinning design. He said the job costs $450.
The timing belt replacement on my 96 Camry V-6 at Toyota dealer cost $150. How much is reasonable for 2.0L timing belt replacement?
I don't know anything about the cost for that VW engine, but I do know that cost varies a lot for timing belt replacement. On my contour it was about $500.
I assume this is because there is a lot more labor involved in this job with some cars than with others.
i just bought a jetta (2001 GLX VR6) my first car in USA and i dont know anything about cars.CAN you give me some advices what should i do ..? when to replace the oil what type of oil an gas what else maintance should i put in the car? thanks
$450 is right in the ballpark. On these engines, I believe they use the waterpump with the plastic impeller, so that has to be changed as well. I have the VW Factory manual on CD, so I can check and confirm whether the waterpump is indeed the plastic impeller model.
I just purchased a 2007 Jetta Wolfsburg 2.5 and have been looking at performance air filters. However, I can't even find mine on the car. Do I need to take off the engine cover, if so How?
Thanks for pointing out the water pump with plastic propeller. I am still debating about buying the car. Great looking/driving Jetta, but replacing timing belt/water pump as soon as I buy it, and the fact that the 2.0L engine uses oil, and one member said they carry a case of oil in their trunk, and you have to check your oil level at each fill up, is not appealing to me at all.
One link said to change the timing belt at 60K, my VW dealer says 80K, the current owner VW dealer says 105K. Who is correct???? What does the owner manual service interval say?
....and what is this water getting into electrical connector at the coolant expansion tank reservoir? If this is a real problem, how can I tell if this car has the problem beside disconnecting the connector and examine the pins. If it has not had the problem....will it do it in the future?
The answer is (depends) a bit sequential. I glanced at the current Bentley's for your 2000 Jetta and model (AEG). It indicates 40k and 80 k for CHECKING. Further for your year and model it does NOT specify a mileage certain for timing belt change (as for the ALH diesel engine @ 100k) but it does say:
..."Volkswagen > A4 Platform > 1999 - 2006
01 - Description of work (part 2 of 2)Toothed belt for camshaft drive, checking (4-cyl. Gasoline Engine)Check condition of toothed belt Open fasteners of upper toothed belt cover and remove cover. Check condition of toothed belt for: Cracks, cross-sectional breaks Separation (cover layer, belt cords) Wear-through on cover layer Fraying of cord strands Surface cracks (plastic shroud) Traces of oil and grease Note: It is essential to replace toothed belt if malfunctions are found. This will avoid possible break-downs or operating problems."...
I agree with ruking.... VW changed the design and extended the timing-belt replace interval between 1999 and 2006.
Early engines had 60K mile change while some after 2003 recommend 100K change. There were some with 80K mile change too. (Inspections are ALWAYS recommended.)
Some folks that like to dig into the details have found that the partnumbers for the belt, tensionor, waterpump and other hardware are actually DIFFERENT on the 100K mile replacment vehicles.
Some VW engines have variable spacing between the teeth on the pullies to help alleveate belt wear based on loading imposed by the valvetrain in syncronization with the pulses of the pistons.
Bottom line, do what is recommended for YOUR engine.
It is highly recommended that you DO NOT use any airfilter besides the stock. Some folks have "tested" many air filters under lab conditions and found that the stock VW filters actually filter the best.
Under NO conditions should you use the "oiled guaze" type of filter (Like K&N). These filter worse and the oil from the filter can get sucked into the system and damage the sensitive MAF sensor.
I have no idea why someone would want to spend extra money on an alternative air filtration system that provides absolutely no performance benefit, Filters worse and has been reputed to cause damage to expensive engine components!
BOTTOM LINE: Change your airfilter every 40,000 miles and ignore it all other times. There is no "power" to be found by filtering the air less.
..."Early engines had 60K mile change while some after 2003 recommend 100K change. There were some with 80K mile change too. (Inspections are ALWAYS recommended.)
Some folks that like to dig into the details have found that the partnumbers for the belt, tensionor, waterpump and other hardware are actually DIFFERENT on the 100K mile replacment vehicles.
Some VW engines have variable spacing between the teeth on the pullies to help alleveate belt wear based on loading imposed by the valvetrain in syncronization with the pulses of the pistons."...
Indeed this is where things can get a tad dicey. Indeed you can use so called "old/er" part numbers and the parts will work as designed and for the designed interval. While this can be argued, (to me) it is best to step up to the newer parts for the longer interval and/or better parts for the SAME interval. Obviously it needs to be researched for proper upgrades and compatibility. So in that sense, it is "buyer beware" and can be a tad more hassle than one would want to go through.
I have a 2002 VW Jetta GLS TDI that will not start... It will not even turn-over. The battery is confirmed good. I believe that their is a problem in the automatic shift lock system. When I turn the ignition to the On position the "brake pedal light" (ASL light) momentarily comes on then goes off (supposed to stay on until you depress the brake pedal) and I hear a relay click in the shift console (It is an automatic transmission). The "Automatic Shift Lock" light should stay on until I press down on the brake pedal, which then allows you to shift from park into the desired gear. I can shift it freely into any gear even without pressing down the brake pedal. Also the electronic gear indicator on the dash does not indicate which gear I am in. It just flashes on and all the gear indicators remain lighted. I am not so sure that this is a brake light switch problem. The brake lights work normally when depressing the brake. The switch also ohms out normal with an ohm meter. The switch is purple in color if this means anything. Please someone help ASAP...!!! :sick:
I have an 01 jetta 1.8t wolfsberg edt. and i was wondering if anyone had the same problems i have. Sometimes as im slowing down and put it into neutral the rpm's will get down to about 5 and then my car will shut off in mid drive. I've replaced the coolant sensor and i recently had a dignostic done and apparently my car is running too rich and too lean at the same time??? how does that happen? The last problem i have is my clutch sensor. Im not a very good mechanic (im just a girl) but my friend may be able to replace the sensor for me if someone could give me some tips or just good advice. They told me they didnt know if it was the sensor itself or the wiring....im really afraid my car is going to die while im driving again and this time i wont be able to control it. PLEASE HELP!
I have a 1998 jetta and its driving me crazy. Every sec. it would do 3 beeping. it really only does it when its a hot day. I dont know wat to do with it. I get the finger almost everyday coming home from work cuz people think im rushing them. if any1 knows where this sound is coming from and could help me, that would be great. THank you
I have VW scanner software on my laptop and my daughters 2001 had the EXACT SAME symptoms. (too lean and too rich). The problem was the MAF sensor and the local VW dealer replaced it for FREE. I just printed out the "Warantee Extension" document for my daughter so she could show it to the dealership.
If your car is beyond the "Warantee Extension" period, You may consider just ordering a MAF from any of the online VW parts suppliers. It is VERY easy to replace the MAF sensor with phillips screwdriver and a pair of pliers. The MAF is located just under the hood. (no struggling to find it and no greasy hands) I have replaced a MAF sensor in a pouring rainstorm... it took me about 3 minutes.
ya my rear lights work fine, and i can see them going freak fast in my mirror at night. both work and no burnt out bulbs... i'm still at a loss. if anyone has any ideas on why my turning signals are blinking so fast, please help. I have yet to install higher wattage bulbs in the front, but this may be the problem. they are pretty dim when flashing. so to sum up... front left and right and rear left and right turn signals ALL work, just too fast and people can't see the front ones because they are too dim.
i also wanted to add that i have a 98 jetta, have had it for a year, and have since put premium in it. if VWs burn oil or leak it, not my jedi. change it almost always at 3000 miles and it is fairly clean, and never low. once i waited 4500 miles, high mileage oil, not synthetic, changed the oil, poured the old oil back in my 5 qt container, and only a pint low, AT MOST, even with spillage. i drive an 80 mile round trip every day to work. IS MY 2.0 KICKASS OR IS MY LUCK SOON TO RUN OUT
My 2000 Jetta failed inspection today and I have 30 days to get it fixed. The speedometer & odometer stopped working a while back but I haven't been able to get it fixed yet. (the dealer quoted me $900 which I don't have). The inspection place told me the code they got is P0501 which is Vehicle Speed Sensor Range/Performance. Does anyone here know if $900 sounds like the right amount to get this fixed? Also, can someone explain what exactly this code means?
The speed sensor is a necessary input to the engine management computer. Without it, the computer will not know your speed and will not be able to control the system properly. The engine is then run in a default "safe" mode. Your car may not be running very well and your gas mileage will suffer. The computer will record the code and turn on your CEL.
I think $900 is about right for a day of labor and some parts. I would have the dealer to look at the car and to be sure which parts are at fault before authorizing a $900 repair. It may not be as simple as replacing the speed sensor. Good Luck.
The problem with the front blinkers is one of two possible conditions within the sockets themselves. (1) Over time (and bulb changes) the two metal poles (inside the socket) gradually bend away from the bulb which causes it to lose contact. So the bulb itself is actually good, it's just not making contact with the two metal poles. (2) There may be corrosion on the metal poles themselves causing them not to make contact with the bulb.
If you are mechanically inclined, you can remove the socket (from its modular plug) CAREFULLY bend the two metal poles upward so they can make contact with the bulb. Also spray some WD-40 on the metal poles to guard against corrosion.
If you are not mechanically inclined, you can purchase a new socket (which is more than likely a dealer item). I would be very surprised if the socket itself is more than $35 each (probably less than that, save for dealer markup).
Thanks. I didn't want to go buy new bulbs and that sounded like a funny solution for the manual to give because they are probably the originals. Sometimes the right one will blink slowly so I think you may be right. When working on these sockets, should I d/c my battery? I'll do it myself. Thanks!
im not the best mechanic by no means but i tried to replace my timing belt water pump thermostat. was going well until i tried to reinstall my belt. the bottom pully moved and now my car has lost alot of power and check engine light is on said was camshaft position alignment what is the proper procedure for fixing this bad timing job. the car idles well just no power and ck light?please help???? thanks
Disconnecting the battery isn't necessary. All you need to do is to unplug the turn signal socket unit from its wiring connection, and you're in business.
Be VERY careful running that engine with possible timing-belt mistimed. The misTiming could cause piston to collide with open valve. This would trash your enigne!
If you have a boat, at least the engine would make a good anchor 8-)
I would suggest that you do not run the engine until all the timings are known to be correct.
I have seen a few threads in regards to a whine out of the turbo but I couldn't find anything relating to this specifically. I have a 2002 Jetta GTI, there's about 65,000 and this noise started only a couple months ago; it hasn't seemed to have affected power or anything, it's just annoying. Usually at start up after cooling down there will be a loud whine for about 1 minute and then go away for a bit, then it'll start up again for a few seconds. I'm not quite sure if it's the turbo or what exactly it is. I know the turbo whines, but this is something noisy. You can definitely hear it. Please help before I drop $$ to have someone tell me there's nothing wrong, someone told me there's a fluid in the turbo that needs to be changed?? Is that true, and if so what/how often?? Thanks!
it could indicate the beginning of turbo wear but it could also be another rotating component in the engine--a high pitched whine could also come from a bad alternator bearing or a bad idler pulley bearing (idler pulleys are just little wheels that belts ride along; otherwise they don't do anything). I'm not sure if your particular engine uses idler pulleys, but I am sure it uses an alternator.
Sometimes turbo wear is accompanied by a little puff of blue smoke out the tailpipe when you first start up the car. If you get blue smoke and a loud whine, chances are this is a turbo issue.
A mechanic with a mechanic's stethoscope should be able to isolate this noise pretty quickly, or you can buy this device yourself at an auto parts store. They are cheap and you look very professional.
Be sure you watch out for all spinning belts and pulleys when using one of these tools, and don't wear a tie and if you have long hair tie it up.
OK well maybe this is a petty thing but it drives me crazy. I have a 2001 Jetta and really had no major problems. Check engine light has been on for years but my mechanic says to ignore it. Anyway......I have black cloth seats and it is really difficult to vacuum them clean. I find by moving the vacuum brush in a circular motion it seems to clean faster. But all this fuzz and hair is so difficult to get off the seats. Sometimes i pluck the hairs one by one because the vacuum won't pick them up. It is a good strong vacuum. Have tried lint rollers and they don't work well. It takes me 30 minutes to vacuum my car. Anybody else have this problem? Anybody have a solution? Besides get leather seats.
My Jetta has black cloth seats (2003)...I use the vacum at a local gas station and it gets everything off for me, it takes me about 15 minuts to do front/back seat and the area.
Your vacum might be strong but may be only geared for floor use. Have you tried using one of the ones at the gas station?
You might want to try inexpensive packing tape. 2-3 in wide. Tape the ends together like a round tube and put your hand in the middle and you can use the full sticky circle to pick up what you need to.
Hi, I just bought a 98 jetta GT automatic with 80k miles. It drives very well except that 1% of chance, i felt a jerk when i was trying accelerate from stand-still, such as after waiting a red light on an up-slope or driving across a bump. On other gears it felts perfect. It seems acting from the transmission system. It has a sealed transmission, and dealer said I do not have to do any maintenance until 100k-120k. Previous owner did regular oil change and a complete tune-up at 60k miles including the timing belt. Did anyone had the same problem? Thanks for advise!
I have a 2005.5 VW Jetta 2.5 with a 5 cylinder engine and automatic 6 speed trans :mad: . It has about 30,000 miles on it. About two weeks ago the EPClight, Check engine light, and Traction Control Light came on while driving. I brought the car in for service and they told me that one of the cooling fans needed to be replaced. They replaced it and on the way home from the dealership the lights came back on. Now I notice that there is a dramatic loss of power when the EPC light is on. I brought the car back and they said it now needed a new throttle position sensor. They just called me and told me that the light is still on after the new sensor was installed. They now have no idea and need to call VW tech support.
Has anyone had a similar experience with the 2.5 five cylinder engine?
I own a 99 Jetta Automatic, ands it does the same thing.
for example i'll put it in drvie from reverse and when i press on the gas i get that lil jerk, don't know how severe yours is, mine is just a small lil jolt, just enough to notice it.
Comments
Your comments are very appreciated it will help me decide what to do!!
HELP!
So either way. Good luck.
I recently purchased a 2007 Jetta automatic. I've noticed when I turn on the car the engine noise sounds loud. If you wait for a minute it slowly decreases to a "normal" level engine sound. I didn't notice the engine doing this while I was at the dealership (although, they were usually talking for a few minutes after your start the car so I'm not sure if it was always doing this and I just didn't notice). I'm just curious if anyone else has noticed this and if this is normal? I always wait until the noise has died down before I take off and the car runs fine. I formerly just had an automatic so I'm not sure if the automatic w/triptronic is what causes the initial rev? Any advice would be great. Thanks.
someone once told me that using a STP Oil treatment helps i've yet to try it on my next oil change
BTW - what weight oil are you using?
If your car is a 2.0 8v, the pulley and tensioner is one in the same (tensioner pulley). In most cases the tensioner pulley should be replaced on every 2nd timing belt change.
If your car is a 1.8T, the pulley and tensioner are separate items, and failure to replace these at EVERY timing belt change can lead to disaster.
When I took the filler cap off, it had some milky stuff under the oil cap and on the oil filler neck. The dip stick had only oil on it to correct level. No milky stuff on dipstick. I know often water in oil makes the milky color stuff, so does foamed oil...The oil filter looked like it was on for a while. What grade oil is used in the 2.0L engines? At what miles/months does the timing belt need replacing?
The guy does have all the maintenance records and repairs. I know some Jettas are great and some are lemons. This one appears to be well maintained.
Thanks,
Joe
Beware that the 2000 2.0L engines tend to consume some oil when driven on the highway. This is not a problem as long as you check the oil level EVERY time you fill the gastank.
Both of my daughters have 2000 VWs (Gulf and NewBeetle) On a highway trip to Maine and back (over 6 hours highway driving) , the Gulf consumes about 1/2 a quart. She carries a case of 5W30 oil in the trunk.
I wholeheartedly endorse you to consider purchase of that car. (I would not have my 2 daughters in ANYTHING else) Are you aware that the 2000 VWs have airbags all around? (one of the safest small car for that year)
There are several other small items about the 2000 VWs which will need attention if they have not already been done. (example - just today, my daughter told me she received a recall for the brake-light switch.... I had told her last month to EXPECT it to arrive because her sisters car got the very same recall earlier)
The timing belt replacement on my 96 Camry V-6 at Toyota dealer cost $150. How much is reasonable for 2.0L timing belt replacement?
Thanks,
Joe
See this chart:
http://www.forparts.com/daycovolkswagen.htm
I assume this is because there is a lot more labor involved in this job with some cars than with others.
thanks
I just purchased a 2007 Jetta Wolfsburg 2.5 and have been looking at performance air filters. However, I can't even find mine on the car. Do I need to take off the engine cover, if so How?
Thanks
One link said to change the timing belt at 60K, my VW dealer says 80K, the current owner VW dealer says 105K. Who is correct????
What does the owner manual service interval say?
....and what is this water getting into electrical connector at the coolant expansion tank reservoir? If this is a real problem, how can I tell if this car has the problem beside disconnecting the connector and examine the pins. If it has not had the problem....will it do it in the future?
Any decent-price VW OEM part website?
Thanks,
Joe
..."Volkswagen > A4 Platform > 1999 - 2006
01 - Description of work (part 2 of 2)Toothed belt for camshaft drive, checking (4-cyl. Gasoline Engine)Check condition of toothed belt
Open fasteners of upper toothed belt cover and remove cover.
Check condition of toothed belt for:
Cracks, cross-sectional breaks
Separation (cover layer, belt cords)
Wear-through on cover layer
Fraying of cord strands
Surface cracks (plastic shroud)
Traces of oil and grease
Note:
It is essential to replace toothed belt if malfunctions are found. This will avoid possible break-downs or operating problems."...
Early engines had 60K mile change while some after 2003 recommend 100K change. There were some with 80K mile change too. (Inspections are ALWAYS recommended.)
Some folks that like to dig into the details have found that the partnumbers for the belt, tensionor, waterpump and other hardware are actually DIFFERENT on the 100K mile replacment vehicles.
Some VW engines have variable spacing between the teeth on the pullies to help alleveate belt wear based on loading imposed by the valvetrain in syncronization with the pulses of the pistons.
Bottom line, do what is recommended for YOUR engine.
Under NO conditions should you use the "oiled guaze" type of filter (Like K&N). These filter worse and the oil from the filter can get sucked into the system and damage the sensitive MAF sensor.
If you dont beleive me.... Check this link to AIR FILTER TESTS
I have no idea why someone would want to spend extra money on an alternative air filtration system that provides absolutely no performance benefit, Filters worse and has been reputed to cause damage to expensive engine components!
BOTTOM LINE: Change your airfilter every 40,000 miles and ignore it all other times. There is no "power" to be found by filtering the air less.
Some folks that like to dig into the details have found that the partnumbers for the belt, tensionor, waterpump and other hardware are actually DIFFERENT on the 100K mile replacment vehicles.
Some VW engines have variable spacing between the teeth on the pullies to help alleveate belt wear based on loading imposed by the valvetrain in syncronization with the pulses of the pistons."...
Indeed this is where things can get a tad dicey. Indeed you can use so called "old/er" part numbers and the parts will work as designed and for the designed interval. While this can be argued, (to me) it is best to step up to the newer parts for the longer interval and/or better parts for the SAME interval. Obviously it needs to be researched for proper upgrades and compatibility. So in that sense, it is "buyer beware" and can be a tad more hassle than one would want to go through.
Here is a link to the "Warantee Extension" document.
I have VW scanner software on my laptop and my daughters 2001 had the EXACT SAME symptoms. (too lean and too rich). The problem was the MAF sensor and the local VW dealer replaced it for FREE. I just printed out the "Warantee Extension" document for my daughter so she could show it to the dealership.
If your car is beyond the "Warantee Extension" period, You may consider just ordering a MAF from any of the online VW parts suppliers. It is VERY easy to replace the MAF sensor with phillips screwdriver and a pair of pliers. The MAF is located just under the hood. (no struggling to find it and no greasy hands) I have replaced a MAF sensor in a pouring rainstorm... it took me about 3 minutes.
i also wanted to add that i have a 98 jetta, have had it for a year, and have since put premium in it. if VWs burn oil or leak it, not my jedi. change it almost always at 3000 miles and it is fairly clean, and never low. once i waited 4500 miles, high mileage oil, not synthetic, changed the oil, poured the old oil back in my 5 qt container, and only a pint low, AT MOST, even with spillage. i drive an 80 mile round trip every day to work. IS MY 2.0 KICKASS OR IS MY LUCK SOON TO RUN OUT
Thanks!!
I think $900 is about right for a day of labor and some parts. I would have the dealer to look at the car and to be sure which parts are at fault before authorizing a $900 repair. It may not be as simple as replacing the speed sensor.
Good Luck.
Or if you have remote start it may be because of the battery issue and the car not recognizing what is the issue.
Otherwise I am not sure what else to recommend.
Do you have a check engine light on?
Try getting to an Autozone or other auto parts supply place and ask there.
The problem with the front blinkers is one of two possible conditions within the sockets themselves. (1) Over time (and bulb changes) the two metal poles (inside the socket) gradually bend away from the bulb which causes it to lose contact. So the bulb itself is actually good, it's just not making contact with the two metal poles. (2) There may be corrosion on the metal poles themselves causing them not to make contact with the bulb.
If you are mechanically inclined, you can remove the socket (from its modular plug) CAREFULLY bend the two metal poles upward so they can make contact with the bulb. Also spray some WD-40 on the metal poles to guard against corrosion.
If you are not mechanically inclined, you can purchase a new socket (which is more than likely a dealer item). I would be very surprised if the socket itself is more than $35 each (probably less than that, save for dealer markup).
HTH
Disconnecting the battery isn't necessary. All you need to do is to unplug the turn signal socket unit from its wiring connection, and you're in business.
This would trash your enigne!
If you have a boat, at least the engine would make a good anchor 8-)
I would suggest that you do not run the engine until all the timings are known to be correct.
Sometimes turbo wear is accompanied by a little puff of blue smoke out the tailpipe when you first start up the car. If you get blue smoke and a loud whine, chances are this is a turbo issue.
A mechanic with a mechanic's stethoscope should be able to isolate this noise pretty quickly, or you can buy this device yourself at an auto parts store. They are cheap and you look very professional.
Be sure you watch out for all spinning belts and pulleys when using one of these tools, and don't wear a tie and if you have long hair tie it up.
MrShiftright
Visiting Host
That is correct. :shades:
Your vacum might be strong but may be only geared for floor use. Have you tried using one of the ones at the gas station?
Did anyone had the same problem? Thanks for advise!
Has anyone had a similar experience with the 2.5 five cylinder engine?
Please help.
I own a 99 Jetta Automatic, ands it does the same thing.
for example i'll put it in drvie from reverse and when i press on the gas i get that lil jerk, don't know how severe yours is, mine is just a small lil jolt, just enough to notice it.