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Comments
Your comments are very appreciated it will help me decide what to do!!
HELP!
So either way. Good luck.
I recently purchased a 2007 Jetta automatic. I've noticed when I turn on the car the engine noise sounds loud. If you wait for a minute it slowly decreases to a "normal" level engine sound. I didn't notice the engine doing this while I was at the dealership (although, they were usually talking for a few minutes after your start the car so I'm not sure if it was always doing this and I just didn't notice). I'm just curious if anyone else has noticed this and if this is normal? I always wait until the noise has died down before I take off and the car runs fine. I formerly just had an automatic so I'm not sure if the automatic w/triptronic is what causes the initial rev? Any advice would be great. Thanks.
someone once told me that using a STP Oil treatment helps i've yet to try it on my next oil change
BTW - what weight oil are you using?
If your car is a 2.0 8v, the pulley and tensioner is one in the same (tensioner pulley). In most cases the tensioner pulley should be replaced on every 2nd timing belt change.
If your car is a 1.8T, the pulley and tensioner are separate items, and failure to replace these at EVERY timing belt change can lead to disaster.
When I took the filler cap off, it had some milky stuff under the oil cap and on the oil filler neck. The dip stick had only oil on it to correct level. No milky stuff on dipstick. I know often water in oil makes the milky color stuff, so does foamed oil...The oil filter looked like it was on for a while. What grade oil is used in the 2.0L engines? At what miles/months does the timing belt need replacing?
The guy does have all the maintenance records and repairs. I know some Jettas are great and some are lemons. This one appears to be well maintained.
Thanks,
Joe
Beware that the 2000 2.0L engines tend to consume some oil when driven on the highway. This is not a problem as long as you check the oil level EVERY time you fill the gastank.
Both of my daughters have 2000 VWs (Gulf and NewBeetle) On a highway trip to Maine and back (over 6 hours highway driving) , the Gulf consumes about 1/2 a quart. She carries a case of 5W30 oil in the trunk.
I wholeheartedly endorse you to consider purchase of that car. (I would not have my 2 daughters in ANYTHING else) Are you aware that the 2000 VWs have airbags all around? (one of the safest small car for that year)
There are several other small items about the 2000 VWs which will need attention if they have not already been done. (example - just today, my daughter told me she received a recall for the brake-light switch.... I had told her last month to EXPECT it to arrive because her sisters car got the very same recall earlier)
The timing belt replacement on my 96 Camry V-6 at Toyota dealer cost $150. How much is reasonable for 2.0L timing belt replacement?
Thanks,
Joe
See this chart:
http://www.forparts.com/daycovolkswagen.htm
I assume this is because there is a lot more labor involved in this job with some cars than with others.
thanks
I just purchased a 2007 Jetta Wolfsburg 2.5 and have been looking at performance air filters. However, I can't even find mine on the car. Do I need to take off the engine cover, if so How?
Thanks
One link said to change the timing belt at 60K, my VW dealer says 80K, the current owner VW dealer says 105K. Who is correct????
What does the owner manual service interval say?
....and what is this water getting into electrical connector at the coolant expansion tank reservoir? If this is a real problem, how can I tell if this car has the problem beside disconnecting the connector and examine the pins. If it has not had the problem....will it do it in the future?
Any decent-price VW OEM part website?
Thanks,
Joe
..."Volkswagen > A4 Platform > 1999 - 2006
01 - Description of work (part 2 of 2)Toothed belt for camshaft drive, checking (4-cyl. Gasoline Engine)Check condition of toothed belt
Open fasteners of upper toothed belt cover and remove cover.
Check condition of toothed belt for:
Cracks, cross-sectional breaks
Separation (cover layer, belt cords)
Wear-through on cover layer
Fraying of cord strands
Surface cracks (plastic shroud)
Traces of oil and grease
Note:
It is essential to replace toothed belt if malfunctions are found. This will avoid possible break-downs or operating problems."...
Early engines had 60K mile change while some after 2003 recommend 100K change. There were some with 80K mile change too. (Inspections are ALWAYS recommended.)
Some folks that like to dig into the details have found that the partnumbers for the belt, tensionor, waterpump and other hardware are actually DIFFERENT on the 100K mile replacment vehicles.
Some VW engines have variable spacing between the teeth on the pullies to help alleveate belt wear based on loading imposed by the valvetrain in syncronization with the pulses of the pistons.
Bottom line, do what is recommended for YOUR engine.
Under NO conditions should you use the "oiled guaze" type of filter (Like K&N). These filter worse and the oil from the filter can get sucked into the system and damage the sensitive MAF sensor.
If you dont beleive me.... Check this link to AIR FILTER TESTS
I have no idea why someone would want to spend extra money on an alternative air filtration system that provides absolutely no performance benefit, Filters worse and has been reputed to cause damage to expensive engine components!
BOTTOM LINE: Change your airfilter every 40,000 miles and ignore it all other times. There is no "power" to be found by filtering the air less.
Some folks that like to dig into the details have found that the partnumbers for the belt, tensionor, waterpump and other hardware are actually DIFFERENT on the 100K mile replacment vehicles.
Some VW engines have variable spacing between the teeth on the pullies to help alleveate belt wear based on loading imposed by the valvetrain in syncronization with the pulses of the pistons."...
Indeed this is where things can get a tad dicey. Indeed you can use so called "old/er" part numbers and the parts will work as designed and for the designed interval. While this can be argued, (to me) it is best to step up to the newer parts for the longer interval and/or better parts for the SAME interval. Obviously it needs to be researched for proper upgrades and compatibility. So in that sense, it is "buyer beware" and can be a tad more hassle than one would want to go through.
Here is a link to the "Warantee Extension" document.
I have VW scanner software on my laptop and my daughters 2001 had the EXACT SAME symptoms. (too lean and too rich). The problem was the MAF sensor and the local VW dealer replaced it for FREE. I just printed out the "Warantee Extension" document for my daughter so she could show it to the dealership.
If your car is beyond the "Warantee Extension" period, You may consider just ordering a MAF from any of the online VW parts suppliers. It is VERY easy to replace the MAF sensor with phillips screwdriver and a pair of pliers. The MAF is located just under the hood. (no struggling to find it and no greasy hands) I have replaced a MAF sensor in a pouring rainstorm... it took me about 3 minutes.
i also wanted to add that i have a 98 jetta, have had it for a year, and have since put premium in it. if VWs burn oil or leak it, not my jedi. change it almost always at 3000 miles and it is fairly clean, and never low. once i waited 4500 miles, high mileage oil, not synthetic, changed the oil, poured the old oil back in my 5 qt container, and only a pint low, AT MOST, even with spillage. i drive an 80 mile round trip every day to work. IS MY 2.0 KICKASS OR IS MY LUCK SOON TO RUN OUT
Thanks!!
I think $900 is about right for a day of labor and some parts. I would have the dealer to look at the car and to be sure which parts are at fault before authorizing a $900 repair. It may not be as simple as replacing the speed sensor.
Good Luck.
Or if you have remote start it may be because of the battery issue and the car not recognizing what is the issue.
Otherwise I am not sure what else to recommend.
Do you have a check engine light on?
Try getting to an Autozone or other auto parts supply place and ask there.
The problem with the front blinkers is one of two possible conditions within the sockets themselves. (1) Over time (and bulb changes) the two metal poles (inside the socket) gradually bend away from the bulb which causes it to lose contact. So the bulb itself is actually good, it's just not making contact with the two metal poles. (2) There may be corrosion on the metal poles themselves causing them not to make contact with the bulb.
If you are mechanically inclined, you can remove the socket (from its modular plug) CAREFULLY bend the two metal poles upward so they can make contact with the bulb. Also spray some WD-40 on the metal poles to guard against corrosion.
If you are not mechanically inclined, you can purchase a new socket (which is more than likely a dealer item). I would be very surprised if the socket itself is more than $35 each (probably less than that, save for dealer markup).
HTH
Disconnecting the battery isn't necessary. All you need to do is to unplug the turn signal socket unit from its wiring connection, and you're in business.
This would trash your enigne!
If you have a boat, at least the engine would make a good anchor 8-)
I would suggest that you do not run the engine until all the timings are known to be correct.
Sometimes turbo wear is accompanied by a little puff of blue smoke out the tailpipe when you first start up the car. If you get blue smoke and a loud whine, chances are this is a turbo issue.
A mechanic with a mechanic's stethoscope should be able to isolate this noise pretty quickly, or you can buy this device yourself at an auto parts store. They are cheap and you look very professional.
Be sure you watch out for all spinning belts and pulleys when using one of these tools, and don't wear a tie and if you have long hair tie it up.
MrShiftright
Visiting Host
That is correct. :shades:
Your vacum might be strong but may be only geared for floor use. Have you tried using one of the ones at the gas station?
Did anyone had the same problem? Thanks for advise!
Has anyone had a similar experience with the 2.5 five cylinder engine?
Please help.
I own a 99 Jetta Automatic, ands it does the same thing.
for example i'll put it in drvie from reverse and when i press on the gas i get that lil jerk, don't know how severe yours is, mine is just a small lil jolt, just enough to notice it.