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Volkswagen Jetta Maintenance and Repair



  • No problem,
    The driver side mirror (just the mirror) pops off and is a $20 to $25 repair which can be done by yourself. Be aware that there is a defrost element in the mirror which comes on when the r.w. defrost is activated. See your dealer about this type of problem before asking a person who knows nothing about the car and save yourself a few sleepless nights. Order the mirror, look at the attachment and proceed.
  • cyber_thugcyber_thug Posts: 3
    ...i have a Golf GTI GLX 00, and i got into an accident(front)... and since i am paying for fixing turned out that it would be alot cheaper if i get the parts myself and just let the body shop do the rest.. so i've been look'n for parts left and right but no luck till now ( actually i got the price on few parts, but each one is from a different place) question is that is there any place , website or whatever that i could find these body parts like ( hood,fender,bumper,ect...) by the way, i tried auto recyclers, and again came up with nothing....could somebody help me plz...i need to fix my car....
  • landerlander Posts: 1
    I have a 1995 Jetta GLS automatic transmission. When driving in rain or a few times of hitting large puddles of water the dash gear indicator lights up all the gears and the transmission slips and or pops into neutral. This has happened several times. I recently used a RTV Silicone sealant on all the connections but have yet to try it by wetting down the connections. When it is dry everything goes back to normal I have not yet taken it into the dealer. Anyone have any ideas on which connector may be the culprit?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Most drivers just sow down or go around the large puddles. You are lucky you have not done more damage to your vehicle. Going through large puddles can wash be grease from the bearings or CV joints, can affect braking, can destroy the alternator and affect all kinds of other things.

    Cars are not typically designed to work underwarer ;-)
  • gnuttallgnuttall Posts: 2
    Quote: Have also had the window fall out, moonroof issues, starter, bad smelling A/C.....

    Window Falling out > Replace Regulator its a known problem
    Starter > Does it squel when its cold out? If yes just remove and apply some grease insode to the moving parts
    Bad Smelling AC > Replace Cabin Pollen filter and spray some disenfectant (Lysol) in the blower moter when its on.

    All simple fixes.....
  • gnuttallgnuttall Posts: 2
    Wiper Linkage is an easy fix. Go to and order a wiper linkage assembly ..about $89. Took me about an hour to install.

    The linkages seize, this is a known issue.
  • paddypaddy Posts: 2
    Thank you Candieselguy! Unfortunately, moving the axle is pretty tough with a pop-up camper. The new 2.0 liter diesel Passat may be my answer because of the increased body weight. Any thoughts on this? Anyone?
  • I have had my 99 Jetta since July 2004 and just recently i have started to have problems. My brake lights are not working and after reading this forum and doing research on recalls I found that there are recalls for the 2000, 2001, & 2002 jettas for the brake switch and I am going to attempt to get my brake switch covered by the recall, I will let you know how it works. Also, my wiper fluid motor does not work, i can hear the motor turning and one side tries to spit out a little fluid but the other side does nothing. also, my horn works every other time i start my car...but it does work when i lock the doors with my key! If you have any insight on these issues please let me know!
  • I think I blew the fuse for my 99 jetta's power windows. None of the four work, and they worked fine this afternoon. When I went to change the fuse, they have 22 fuses in easy access, but the power window one is not one of them. Where is the fuse? If it is above, which one? I'm so confused and hate the owners manual of the Jetta right now. Any help is appreciated. Thanks
  • malexgcabmalexgcab Posts: 3
    I have been a japanese car consumer for a long time and I am considering purchasing my very first VW. I am requesting your help in regards to maintenance, reliability, issues, recalls. The car that I am considering has 60K miles...a bit high for the year but the car looks great.
    Please convince me to be a VW junkie. Thanks.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    It sounds as if you have found a resolution for your brake lights.

    For your wiper squirters, it REALLY sounds as if you just have a leaking hose between the pump and the windshield squirters.

    If your horn is not beeping when you lock the car, then one of the many security sensors is not satisfied that everything is OK. Do not forget that ALL DOORS must be closed including the hood and the trunk. To help isolate which sensor is not satisfied, make sure that each door will turn on the interior lights AND make them go out. If that is OK, then verify that the "trunk open" indicator works when the trunk is open. If that is OK, then the only sensor left is the one on the hood-latch.

    Also, do not forget that the "horn beep" when locking is PROGRAMMABLE and may have been turned which case, dont bother checking all the door switches.
  • mkaisermkaiser Posts: 1
    Bought this car new in 1999 and have had the usual check engine light issues with sensors replaced along with the windows dropping into the doors.

    This is the biggest issue yet. For 3 days the dealer can not figure out what is wrong with the car other than it is misfiring. Car was bucking and engine light started to flash. Pulled over and had towed to dealer. Spark plugs were fouled and they say it is oil. Can not find oil issue anywhere but with each replacement of plugs they get fouled within 14 miles of driving. Any similar experiences and solutions?
  • waiwai Posts: 327
    The car looks great, does it mean the body is great or the power is great? If the power is great, it doesn't mean that the car is driven and maintained by the existing owner properly. You don't know how the owner drive the car. Is this 60K miles mainly city driving or not?
    I bought a Civic-Ex three years ago at 70,000 miles and has no power at all starting from 100,000 miles. So even the car looks great, doesn't guarantee it will last for a reasonable period.
    I suggest you bring the car to a German car mechanic for inspection before purchase.
    Good Luck.
  • gkortasgkortas Posts: 1
    Hello. I hope someone has an idea about this.... I had my rear shocks replaced about a month ago. The new shocks are very noisy, especially when the weather is cool or wet. My mechanic took the car on a test drive and heard the noise. He re checked the shock installation, but didn't notice anything wrong. The car also seems "stiff" in the back when going over bumps. Could the shocks be defective, or as my mechanic suggested, they need time to "seat in". Any ideas would be appreciated.
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    How many miles are on the car? If it is a high-mileage car (close to or over 100K),
    or if it is a lower mileage model that has been driven in an area (city, state, etc...) where the roads are poorly maintained, you might want to have the other shock components (springs, upper shock bushing, bump stops, etc...) checked out as well. If those are bad, then the new shocks won't last very long as they will bottom out at the first severe bump/pothole you encounter in the road.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    Lets assume that your oil is NOT overfilled.

    If ALL the sparkplugs ae oil-fouled, the it is unlikely that oil has suddenly started to leak past the rings on ALL FOUR CYLINDERS all at once. Thus leads is to oil getting into the intake plenum.

    You did not mention which engine you have. If it is turbocharged, then most likely the turbocharger seal is allowing oil into the intake.

    If your engine is NOT turbocharged, then suspect the PCV (Positive Crankcaase Ventalation) system is allowing oil into the intake manifold.

    You could experiment by disconnecting the PCV (oil seperator) from the top of the engine) by removing the hose between it and the intake manifold. PLUG the open nipple to the intake manifold and just run a hose from the oil-seperater down to dangle in the air.

    If the above experiment "fixes" the problem and you no longer have plug-fouling, then you have isolated the source of the oil.
  • did you have any transmission problems?????
    boy do i
  • jettblkjettblk Posts: 2
    looking to buy a 2002 jetta has 57k mi and there is a leak ine the back of the engine could not tell if it was tranny or not but it was on the back of the engine. any ideas what the problem is? asked the guy to take it to dealership to check it out before i considered buying. i didnt want to get in a fight with the local dealership, you know 2nd owner car warranty transfer that type of thing. let me know if you have any ideas.
  • the transmision is off to the right it should not be it but check the oil pan
    we know nothing of warranty transfer ours came with a limited warranty from the dealer. ( 2nd owners too)
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Posts: 4,085
    You do not say WHICH engine you are refering to. (2.0, 1.8T, TDI, VR6)

    What do you consider the "back" of the engine? If you are referring to the side of between the engine and the firewall, there is not very much that can leak oil in that area on the 2.0L engine.

    You are wise to take the vehicle to a TRUSTED mechanic and let them look over the entire vehicle. Most oil-leaks are not a big deal... but some are.
  • kris9kris9 Posts: 1
    Hi Fellow jetta owners,

    Can you throw me some light on the 80k service on 96 jetta. Its a auto transmission, 2.0L 4 cyl engine. Dealer quotes 600 for Timing belt change...don't exactly know how much is it worth....

    Any views are welcomed...

  • fish8fish8 Posts: 2,282
    Why would you consider this car since it is already leaking from the engine area? Sounds like a car to avaoid at all costs!!
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    Timing Belt changes are around $600 at the dealer. If you can find an independent VW mechanic (or foreign car mechanic that specializes in European makes), you can probably have the same timing belt change done for $100 to $200 less. The reason the dealer charges so much is to cover their overhead.
  • jettblkjettblk Posts: 2
    its a 2.0, and by the back of the engine i mean the drivers side where the tranny would hook up.
  • gsbeachgsbeach Posts: 1
    I have a 1997 vw jetta with 141000 miles. I was thinking about selling it, so I had it detailed where they washed the engine as well. when I went to pick my car up, it would not start. the owner of the car detail place has a father who is a mechanic who said my car would not start because of a bad ignition coil.

    What is confusing to me is why did the ignition coil happen to all of a sudden not work right when the engined was washed. Would washing an engine cause something like this to happen? Does this make any sense? I do not know if I was being taken advantage of or if it was just a coincidence that my ignition coil went bad right when it was washed.

    if you have any advice about this I would really appreciate it to help me understand this.

    thank you!
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    If the leak is coming from below the engine, chances are its a leaking rear main bearing seal (that should be replaced at the same time the clutch is replaced - to save on labor costs). If the leak is coming from the cylinder head, it could be either a defective oil pressure sensor or a leaking valve cover gasket...
  • 600kgolfgt600kgolfgt Posts: 690
    Check for cracks in the ignition coil housing. That's usually the culprit, as any water that gets in there will short out the coil.

    If the coil has cracks, it's time to replace it.
  • parabolicparabolic Posts: 1
    I bought a used 99 New Jetta about a year ago. I chose the car because it only had 31K miles then - it has 36K now.

    The automatic transmission is having major problems. Basically, the car does not want to change gears. If you go to put it in reverse, it keeps moving forward a bit before reversing, which is dangerous for parallel parking and on hills. Same thing with accelerating: I've had it not switch into gear at stoplights and almost gotten rear-ended on several occasions.

    I can't just add transmission fluid because of the sealed transmission, and I took it to my private mechanic and he told me to talk to VW directly. I've got an appointment at the dealership for Friday morning, and I talked to someone at VW of America this morning about trying to get it covered under the powertrain warranty - it's been 6 years, but at 36K miles it's ridiculous for the car to be having transmission problems.

    Anyone have similar transmission experiences? How long do you think a diagnostic appointment at the dealership will take? Any idea what could be wrong and how much it could cost?
  • nsasitornnsasitorn Posts: 2
    hi Mike,

    the same thing I think happen to me.

    first the red battery looking light came on, then the epc, abs, etc but anyway, my car just slowed down and turned off, what did you do?
  • nsasitornnsasitorn Posts: 2
    I just got this car and as i was driving I saw the

    generator/red battery looking light come on. after running for a bit, the ABS light then came on and then the EPC light. The car then started to stall and shut off, i had to pull over.

    can someone please tell me if they had this experience and hwta may be wrong with it. Please, i just bought the car and its all the money I had saved for a car and now I need to get it fixed and can't afford to be taken advantage of by a mechanic.

    thank you.
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