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Comments
As far as oil consumption in my car, mine doesn't burn oil, I guess I'm one of the lucky ones.
As far as the poor gas mileage, if you've got an independent mechanic you trust, I would have them take a look at it. You may be charged a diagnostic fee whatever $ per hour but if they can figure out why it's happening it may be worth it. It's a lot cheaper than paying VW tech's $90 bucks per hour. If it's really expensive to fix, whatever they discover, you may just want to trade in your Jetta, before more problems surface. Good luck.
At 120K miles, she sold the car (2 years ago)... I still see it running around town once in a while. VWs are extreemly reliable. (Parts are somwhat reasonable to purchase when they break if you can get NON VW parts)
(She now has a Honda with over 230,000 miles on it. It is VERY expensive to fix... must get parts from HONDA...Alternator=$320 just for the part.... power-steering hose=$130 just for the part... AC=$1000s she left that broken)
When you perform your own repairs... your perspective on "cost to repair" changes. Neither of these cars EVER was at a dealership for repair during their tenour with our family.
I dont see any 'downside' to the TDI engine.
My TDI gets better MPG than than those silly "hybreds" some other companies are pushing.
...and it is still the same ol reliable Jetta that is fun to drive... not a stripped down tincan like the 'hybreds' tend to be.
The premature rear brake pad wear is not materializing at the above mileage and the pads have hardly worn from getting it new. Also another indicator is the brake fluid level is exactly the same as when I received it from the dealer.
As for brake, I put gear in neutral (which I should never do again!) to see if the speed still goes down, but felt no problem. So I do not think dragging brake is the cause for my case.
But I have just remembered one more thing. My gas gage used to stay at ''full'' for about 110 miles before dropping suddenly to around 7/8 point. I asked my dealer about it and they found some problem (censor or something) and fixed it. (I do not remember what exactly they did.) That behavior was gone right after that, but I think it was when the gas mileage dropped significantly.
Oh, by the way, how come VW automatic runs like manual ? What is so unique about VW's tranny ?
This car went thru my son, and both daughters as they got their licneces to drive.
Any maintenance "pointers" would have to come from me as I was the one that maintained it. The only 'major' item I replaced was the steering rack.... everything else was normal wear items.
The only "problem" that I recall was the door handle kept breaking.... this was after somone broke into the car by prying the handle off.
Every VW I am familear with has gone over 120K miles. VW engines are practically indestructable.
1976 Scirocco (125K miles when sold)
1979 rabbit-pickup (130K miles when traded in)
1982? FOX (over 150K miles when sold)
The secret it to PURCHASE USED VEHICLES after they have proven themselves as reliable.
This may also be just a mis-adjusted shift linkage that needs some 'tweaking'.
It may be wise to consider a transmission fluid and filter change. The existing fluid has served its useful life at 65K miles.
Jeremy
The depreciation hit is greater than I am used to but I knew it would be so even before I got into the Jetta. My own goal is to keep the TDI Jetta into the design life of the engine at 10,000 hrs say at 50-55 mph average I am looking at 500,000 to 550,000 miles. I would say take a pencil to it: per mile driven. I mentally have depreciated in my mind the whole cost so the depreciation per mile comes out to .02723 cents per mile.
If you are not willing to do all but major maintenance, it sounds like it is not worth the anguish it can cause.
so my question is this, should i take a chance on getting a jetta with all of its virtues mentioned above and risk putting myself in the same boat as other frustrated jetta owners, or just go with a honda, mazda,ect.
Virtually ALL of the issues you speak of have either been resolved by the 2003 model year or are covered under warantee. (That is what a warantee is for!)
The cause and corrective action for every issue you mention have been discussed with you repeatedly in this very form.
Most VW owners are very loyal and think of their VWs as more than just A-to-B transportation. An occasional glitch is not cause for alarm. You may not be happy with a VW if you are not willing to treat it properly.
You speak of "..all the problems..." and "fiasco" as if VW has some kind of corner on the market with having occasional problems. How many cars have you owned? Have they all been 100% reliable with absolutely no issues? They must not have been built on this planet.
THERE IS NO SUCH THING AS A PERFECT MACHINE
This forum is intended for VW owners to ask for and get reasonable assistance with a VW automobile.
Your ranting and raving is getting old and is kinda childish too. Folks do not want to read your rants any more. They are looking for intelligent responses to real-world issues they are having.
I see no "value add" to your posts here. Why are you wasting you time to even write them?
Why did your profile used to say you own a MAZDA6 but now says you own an ACURA?
Meanwhile, your post #2867 Aug 25, 2003 (11:30 pm) says that you "traded a VW for accord"
If you have a MAZDA6 , ACURA and an ACCORD... why are you also considering getting a VW? ...so you can complain about it here?
In reality, you probubly own a FORD!
diagnosis:
paranoid schizophrenia with a classic case of multiple personality disorder. and a little bit of BS, just for effect.
PLEASE IGNORE HIM!!!!!
Thanks
Some other questions that may help point you to a resolution.
Do BOTH of the keyfobs behave like this?
What about the Valet Key?
Good luck to you on this one.... at least no one will be stealing your car ;-)
I'm considering purchasing a new, 2003 model 1.8T. But I'm worried about the reliability problems...does anyone know if the coils, window regulators, air flow sensor issues have finally been ironed out?
I currently own a '92 Acura Integra, and before that drove an '81 Honda Accord - both were relatively trouble-free for 10+ years. So perhaps I'm a fool for even thinking about VW, but the Jetta has a mix of style, features, and fun that keeps tempting me...
The window regulators were a problem with the early-production A3 bodystyle and the 2003 model year will have the improved parts installed from the factory.
The MAF (MassAirFlow) sensor continues to be troublesome for some folks. The good news is that it is a peice of cake to replace and there are direct-replacement parts from Mercedies-Benz that seem to more reliable. (and cheaper than the VW part)
After owning Honda-Acura.... you should be prepared for a bit more maintenance on a VW. I too, went from a Honda back to my present 2003 Jetta. The Jetta is by far a better car. I expect some 'glitches'... but they will be well worth it to me.
Each person has their own priorities in selecting a vehicle. Mine was the 10year/unlimted mile warantee on the body. I can replace warn out parts... but a rusty body is NOT repairable.
It wastes YOUR time, OUR time, and hard drive space on the server.
The carmaker, which manufactures leading models such as the Golf and Polo, was downgraded by "Which?" readers to the poor reliability category...
http://news.bbc.co.uk/2/hi/business/3129581.stm
Thanks...
good luck!
I know you've probably heard all this stuff before, but I was just wondering if anyone could give me some helpful suggestions for the following problems I am having with my car:
(vehicle has 47717 miles on it)
1)check engine light keeps coming on
2)paraffin wax leakage under doors
3)left turn signal blinks too fast
4)front end wobble increasing with acceleration
5)front end suspension squeaks/creaks when going over bumps
Thanks for your help.
Also, I bought the car not too long ago. Is there ANY light at the end of the tunnel or did I make a mistake buying a VW Jetta? Be honest. Thanks.
I too have a Jetta (2000 1.8T). Here's my take on your problems:
1. I'd just take the car to a mechanic on this one. They can get the codes and (hopefully) tell you what's going on. My check engine light has been on twice. The first time was because my gas cap wasn't screwed on tightly enough (yes, I felt stupid). The second time (just diagnosed today) there was a problem with my bypass valve. Bought the valve from VW for $38.10 and I'm going to replace it myself because they wanted to charge $102 for labor.
2. I've also had the wax problem. It only leaks out when it's hot outside. I spray WD-40 on a clean cloth and use that to remove the wax, works great!
3. Haven't experienced this.
4. Haven't experienced this either.
5. My car only does this when it's really cold outside.
Jetta's definitely have their, um, quirks. But my Accord also had it's quirks (replaced/rebuilt distributor, radiator & fuel pump in 2 months and my front bumper literally fell off the next month). Anyway, all cars have their quirks. I know these little things are quite irritating but just get them fixed. I LOVE my Jetta so much. I'm currently leasing it and am having a hard time deciding on whether I should buy out the lease or lease a 2004. I personally don't think you made a mistake. Try not to sweat the little things.
I would start with the easy stuff and work up from the (cost wize) I would start by assuming that this problem is a wheel out of balance then move from there.
*)Check for caked dirt in the inside of the wheels.
*)Check for broken belt in a tire. (have you ever hit a road hazzard at high speeds? ... like a 2X4 lying on the highway)
*)Consider doing 4-wheel balance and rotate.
*)Front brakes my be dragging thus warping a rotor (the steering wheel would wiggle a bit too)
*)A CV joint may have a torn boot thus allowing dirt to get into the balls. (this may also be accompined by some grinding noise during sharp turns.)
I hope this helps you out.
#4 I had this problem with another one of my cars and I needed to rotate my tires. but if they are worn bad you may need to replace them.
Hope this helps.
Please E-mail me at Ash155@aol.com with your opinions since I do not have much time to check this website often. Thank you
First off... forum etiquette dictates that if you ask a question here, you will get the answer here. If you dont have the time to follow thru... dont bother asking.
That said, you are correct in saying the forigen-named cars are more expensive to repair. VWs tend to be among the MOST EXPENSIVE to repair. (I have owned about 5 of them since 1979)
However, the quality, roadfeel, and overall driving experience that a fine automobile such as a VW offers is unmatched by other choices.
You need to decide on YOUR priorities that you need in an automobile. If being CHEEP to repair is a priority, there may be other choices besides VW. If your priority is RELIABILITY, the choice may be different still.
IMHO: One should get the vehicle they like and enjoy it. The costs to keep it on the road will STILL be waayyy below a monthly payment on a new car. My gauge has always been to ask myself if the monthly cost to keep in on the road is more than a car payment... if the answer is NO.. KEEP DRIVING.
My daughters 1st car was an old VW with almost 100K miles on it... she beat on that thing by driving on every dirt road within 50 miles of the house. It never left her stranded and she did not lose any money when she sold it. She is now looking for a 3rd vehicle and is seriously thinking VW. Her Honda Prelude has nearly 160K miles on it but it does not have the style, class nor overall quality of a VW.
Let me leave you with this advice for purchasing a used car. CHOOSE WISELY.
Any ideas or suggestions would greatly be appreciated. I am not a mechanic and have no idea how to check the fuel line(if that would even be the problem). help thanks
scott
I agree with you that $450 seems a bit steep.
A quick check of the cost of the parts on http://www.germanautoparts.com/ tells me that even the MOST EXPENSIVE racing pads are only $79. Most of the other pads are about $33.
I do my own brake work and would go with one of the "low dusting" pads and do the job in my driveway for less than $50. (some additonal materials are needed such as brake cleaner.)
Some other places to check part prices are:
http://www.vwparts.com/
http://www.avolkswagenpart.com/
http://www.vwpartscentral.com
http://www.buyautoparts.com/