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Ford Focus Engine Problems

njscottnjscott Posts: 2
edited August 2015 in Ford
Hello, i bought a new 2007 Ford Focus six months ago, i have barely over 10k miles on it. today i was driving to work and smoke started to come through all the vents, so i pulled off the freeway and popped the hood. the engine was on fire. looked like it started from the alternator. its under warranty and got towed to the dealership. the service dept is closed until monday so they cant look at it until then nor will they give me a loaner. has anyone ever heard of this happening? My warranty should cover this i hope.
not too happy with Ford right now.

See also: Ford Focus Engine Vibration Fix (Video-6:39)


  • when i turn my car off after i have been driving it. It begins leaking i think it is water and antifreeze i checked the overflow bottle and there are no holes so i dont know what it could be. i am very consered about this and i dont believe the car is overheating. please any help would be great!
  • dj2bigdj2big Posts: 9
    What was the problem???
  • njscottnjscott Posts: 2
    After four days at the dealer they finally looked at it.
    Somehow a large piece of plastic, like a tarp or something got entangled in the engine and part of it got caught up in or around the alternator. it was not the engine. Ive never heard of this happening before. The Ford dealer actually had to melt it off, how i dont know. Bottom line it was not the car, Ford did not charge me and everything is good with the car. it just took a total of six days. Its kind of embarrassing.
    i wouldve never guessed these things happen.
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 573
    Probably a plugged air conditioning drain tube.
  • well that was my first thought however, i dont use the air conditioner, it uses way to much gas.
  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    Do you burn more gas by using the AC?

    Yes, running your car while having the air conditioning turned on does burn or use more gas then if you had the A/C turned off.

    Using the air conditioning in a vehicle turns on the compressor which makes the engine work harder to run this component of the car along with the other parts the engine is already running. The harder the engine works the more gasoline or fuel that it needs and uses.

    However if you are comparing using the AC on the car to rolling down your windows there may not be a difference in the amount of gas used. Rolling down the windows and driving puts drag on the car and again makes the engine work harder to overcome the drag coefficient and thus uses more gas than if the windows were in the up position.

    In all the studies I have read or seen they say the amount of extra gas used for running the air or rolling down the windows is about the same but that most people agree that it is more comfortable to have the air conditioning turned on then have the windows down in the heat of the summer.

    If the weather permits you to neither turn on the air conditioning nor roll down the windows in your vehicle then you should get better gas mileage then in the warmer months when you will feel the need to turn on the A/C or roll down the windows to let the wind cool you down.

    Incidently, the AC compressor runs if you turn on defrost when its over 40 degrees outside.

  • m3yerm3yer Posts: 2
    hi i am wondering if anyone knows if the header in the link below will fit a st170 cheers?
  • m3yerm3yer Posts: 2
  • might be a hoes busted you can detect it yet but watch behind you thermastat housing it being alumium motor you might bust a head ours never ran hot either but we lost out motor due to the hoes bieng busted and not know it it never registered hot haha should of got a chevrolet
  • If anyone would know, what is the part, held by 4 bolts, 2 maybe 3 coolant hoses connected to it, right next to the battery, backside of the engine, is actually the thermostat housing, please let me know.They apparently run this this baby without antifreeze. it has a hole, that I had to plug with a 3/8- 24 screw, but I realize, it will not last long.
    It is a friends roommate's vehicle.The part has an attachment, that looks like should have something on the top of it.
  • My 2002 is making a weird noise when I turn it on, and when I accelerate, there is a constant humming, like the sound that a toy remote control car makes when its accelerating. Any ideas what this may be, and the cost it may be to fix it?
  • I have a 2007 ZX4 and I am experiencing a rough idle when engine is cold. It lasts for about a minute after the car is started, You can hear a dead miss, like a silent spot where a cylinder should be firing. After the idle RPMS start to drop, then the engine smooths out. I was told this is normal for the 2.0 because it is a Low Emission Vehicle. I don't think so and would like to know if anyone else has this problem. I also get a noise from the rear of the car over bumps, like a shock noise or something. The car has only 1100 miles on it. The problems have been there since brand new.
  • hi ive got a 1999 focus lx zetec and its making a wurring noise like a bearing is cooked.its coming from the top front left hand pulley wheel whatever thats connected to,is it a power steering pump,coz when i move the wheel it gets louder thanks in advance
  • I had a coolant leak on my 98 Camaro 6 cyl 3800 engine. I rented a tool where you put it on the radiator like a cap and pump up pressure to the radiator cap pressure and see where leaks are. First some coolant came out of a hose connection so I tightened and it was fixed then I checked again, pumped it up to only about 12 pounds (my cap is 18 lbs) and heard water coming out of intake manifold onto top of manifold. I must have then blew some gasket as the hissing stopped and the coolant went into the oil pan. Someone thought it must be the intake manifold gasket as they are plastic on this engine. I never did run the engine since, just drained the oil/coolant combo. I will attempt to do the intake manifold gasket but am wondering if anyone else has done this and what you ran into or if you have any other guesses as to what gasket I blew. I hear the intake manifold on these Camaros are a b____., any tips? Thanks
  • dvc1492sdvc1492s Posts: 13
    Did you ever find out what was wrong with your LX? The reason why I ask is I have a similar problem. I can't pin point it exactly because the wurring noise seems to be associated with the steering. As the wheel is turned to the right, it sound increase 5 fold. Backing off it goes away. My problem is not exactly like yours however some feed back would be appreciated.
    Thanks, Jack
  • kent14kent14 Posts: 1
    My focus is finally paid for its a pretty good little car i would like to keep it like that. 2.0Z-tech has a vibration at idle and it gets worse when in gear . The belts new the tensioner is tight the mounts are good and as far as i know its not electrical(far as i know) so if anyone has this problem/solution or suggestion please do reply?
  • carlt1carlt1 Posts: 6
    My 08 Focus sedan was doing well until the wrench light appeared today in city driving. I noted no engine malfunction. Thinking about this, I wonder if my driving style is causing a carburator problem. I drive with a very light foot...avoiding RPMs over 2K, if possible in city traffic and keeping it at 55 on the highway. Am I keeping the RPMs too low for sound engine functioning? Thoughts?
  • bdymentbdyment Posts: 573
    You should take it into the dealer. Could be almost anything except carburetor problems. You have fuel injection. Carbs haven't been used for years.
  • caqcciacaqccia Posts: 1
    Kent14....I have the same problem with my Focus 2000 SE. It vibrates like crazy when engine is cold both at idle and moving. As engine heats up and speed increases the vibration increases in freguency but is less noticeable. I went to a website Ask Ford Mechanic...and was told that it is most likely the right engine mount. I am going to try that fix this week or next week. Incidentally, I have 120,000 on my Focus and the only problem that I had was when the ignition messed up and
    I could turn the key. $300.00 later it was repaired. Can't complain about $300.00 repair for 120,00 miles and great gas milage.

    Hope this helps

  • mschmalmschmal Posts: 1,757
    The wrench light is tied to the electronic throttle system and you should take the car to the dealer for service.

    Its under warranty.

  • i know its been a long time, just wondering what your outcome was, mine is having the same problem! please get back to me ASAP. Thanks
  • biship66biship66 Posts: 2
    hi all new to this. but if you are having a problem of humming or vibration that sounds like its coming from the passenger side the replace the passenger motor mount. I have replaced it twice and i would recommend that you buy one from ford. that one that t i got was from napa auto parts and was bad in two months
  • biship66biship66 Posts: 2
    any one have any weard problems whit the dash lights. brake, airbag, oil light. the three are on and my car will not start. but i can push start or pop start the car and its fine. if any one can help let me know thanks
  • skapunkeric , If if fact you have coolant leaking when you shut it off. (green and slick feeling) it could well be your pressurs cap is week, if it's just clear water then this may just be your a/c drain which is normal. hope this helps.
  • Hey biship66; Need more info, 1-do your lights all go out when you do get if to start? 2-Does your ign.key cylinder turn far enough to turn out these lights? It must turn past the on position far enough to turn all lights off before relay will connect. if it doesn't it doesn't turn that far your problem may be in your ign switch or key pinion gear. if your lights do go out but you hear no click, you may have a bad starter relay, loose cable, or bad ground to eng cable. You are not completing the circuit somewhere. Have someone hold a 12v test light to a known ground on your eng and clip the other end to the neg batt post,if it lights up you have a bad ground,if not the ground side is ok, then go to the pos side and follow this to the starter.check for good tight and clean connections. hope this helps.
  • mlgardmlgard Posts: 5
    Engine mount replacement was one of the quicker jobs I've done on my '00 ZX3, Caccia. Block under the oil pan, jack the engine up, loosen nuts, remove old, install new and tighten. Mine wasn't vibrating like crazy, just loud engine sound while driving. Noticed the difference right away. There are two other mounts as well I guess you know. I had the ignition problem shortly after buying my Focus. That was covered under warranty. You're pretty lucky to have only had that issue and now the mount. My list of repairs/recalls is long. Matt
  • sk69sk69 Posts: 4
    My 2004 Station Wagon produces a fuel smell in the cabin. It's coming from the vents, when accelerating or in stop and go traffic. It's not there when I drive steady at higher speeds, e.g. on the highway, and first occurred after I had a 60k service done. Had it at the dealership already 4 times - they changed the cabin air filter, vapor management valve, resecured vapor recovery tube - nothing helped. They say that there's nothing wrong with the car and that there are no leaks. Does anybody have an idea what could cause it?
  • PF_FlyerPF_Flyer Pennsylvania Furnace, PAPosts: 9,403
    I had a similar issue with a vehicle. The gas smell but no obvious leaks. Eventually I wound up having difficult starts if the vehicle sat for a day. Was losing pressure in the fuel line so there had to be a leak at some point in the system.

    If you can find a way to let your car sit for a day and then take note of how easy it starts (or not) you may be able to determine if you're losing fuel pressure when it sits. If it is, there has to be a leak, however small and hard to find it may be.
  • SK69; Find someone with a fuel pressure gauge, Hook it up to the valve on your fuel rail. ( this looks like a tire valve stem) See what your pressure is when running and if it drops when you shut your eng off. It should about 40lbs ?? If your pressure drops, check your fuel pressure regulator located on that fuel rail. Check these items and let me know what you find.
  • sk69sk69 Posts: 4
    Thanks pf_flyer and oldfordmech. Sometimes the car just sits for 2 days or so - no starting problems so far (too small of a leak?). I couldn't find the valve one the fuel rail. I have a 2.3L PZEV 2004 - does it look different in this one?
  • If you find your fuel rail, follow it back to where your fuel lines coming from and going back to the tank, you should find the valve before getting back to the fuel lines as they come up from the under side of the body. The valve may have a black valve stem cover on it, but you do have one, I'm sure. I'll do some more research and get back to you, later this week, I've been away from them for a few years but I still have an in with the old timers.
  • sk69sk69 Posts: 4
    Thanks oldfordmech - I certainly looked in the wrong spot but no need anymore. It was a loose spark plug. Might have happened during the 60k service at the dealership but of course can't prove it...
  • Hi
    Dropped the wife's 2006, 25,000 mile, 1.6 (Duratec) Focus in for its 3 yr service this afternoon. Service manager phoned this evening to say that they have broken 2 sparkplugs off in the cylinder head, whilst trying to remove them, as per service requirements.
    Now they want ME to pay for them to remove the cylinder head and repair, I don't think so mate!!!
    Has anyone heard of a similar problem ?
    Service history is complete and with main dealer
  • anchusaanchusa Posts: 1
    Hello. My question is, what would make my (bought new) 06 Focus overheat? It doesn't happen consistently, but about every month or so it overheats just going a few highway miles, only to find there is no coolant in the system. It's happened about 6 times in the past five months. The dealer keeps saying its a vacuum lock, it's "air-bound". The fifth time he changed the thermostat, hoping that was it. It wasn't. They've done pressure test after pressure test, only to find it's "okay". I thought vacuum locks only happened during the summer, because of the heat? It's winter.

    My own mechanic says the coolant is probably being burned up in the engine because of a head gasket leak or crack (considering the head is aluminum). No visible leaks with putting a large piece of cardboard under the car for a month to see. Nothing. No sign of coolant in the oil either.

    I've been late to work each time (work only about 5 miles away), and was warned I will soon be disciplined if it happens again. This problem is not only causing me frustration, but could cost me my job! What should I do? They won't listen to my mechanic. The dealer just reassures me it won't happen again, and they've finally fixed the problem, but it still overheats. Time to drag out the lawyer?
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    Find a mechanic with an exhaust gas tester for the radiator, as I remember it was a glass or plastic tube what had a blue liquid in it, and a squeeze bulb on top. The liquid would turn yellow if it detected exhaust gasses. Also, have someone test your pressure cap.You can also hookup a pressure tester with the eng warmed up and see if the pressure climbs very fastwhen started back up. A slow rise is normal but it should be very slow, if it comes up fast then you have a bad head gasket or a cracked head from over heating.
    Hope this helps you.
  • dmeecedmeece Posts: 4
    My daughter's 03 Focus ZTS sedan 16v Zytec engine has been stalling while in park or in gear. Advance Auto Parts code says it was the Mass Air Flow and O2 Sensor in bank 1 sensor 1. We changed both of those and that helped it some. It no longer seems to be stalling while parked and idles pretting steady around 800 rpms while in drive. Reverse is still rough though. Anyway, I am now unsure what the problem could be. Is it fuel related, idle related, fluid related, in need of a tune-up??? Anyone ever experience this before? Could it be the PCV valve or hose, and if so, where the heck are they? I looked for that before and was never able to locate them?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • royglenroyglen Posts: 2
    My 01' Focus is stalling when running for a hour or so. It seemed to help for a while when I changed the fuel filter, but is starting to get worse again. It seems to help if I keep the gas tank pretty full so I wonder if I have some dirt or water in my fuel tank. Does anyone know how to drain the tank? I thought about siphoning it out but I wonder if that would get everything. Any ideas?
  • I have a vacum leak around the carb,and i cant find it .it makes my car idle bad and will shut off if u dont put the gas on sum. 2001 ford focus zx3 can anyone help
  • Take a can of spray carb cleaner and with eng running, spray w/nozzle pointed at each intake manifolf runner where it bolts to the cyl head. If eng RPM raise or starts to idle normally, you found your leak. Look at your vacumn label by radiator and try to locate each line and check that both ends are connected and not cracked or brittle. you can spray cleaner around them and see if it changes the idle
    If you don't find your leak, you have an idle air control valve,it's round, about 3" long,
    w/electrical plug on 1 end and mounted to intake manifold w/2 8mm bolts. you should be able to find a new one at a NAPA store.
    Hope this helps you.
  • Hello I have an AT 2001 Ford Focus, never had problems with it before but shortly after stopping for some gas when I got on the highway and got it up to 55mph and turned on cruise control, its like it wouldn't kick into gear and when I would put on the gas the mph would only rev the engine and the mph would decrease. I pulled over and noticed the check engine light was on.... I had to get off the highway so I tryed starting it and I was able to pick up speed very slowly as it would shift to higher mph, its only when I press on the gas harder that it does it again (revs and reduces mph until the car is stopped) Please let me know what you guys think happened? Did I get bad gas? Did something go out?
  • check the vacum hose on the inside on the side of the engine its hard to see but u have to look hard to see it u may have a hole in the vacum hose its right below the carb below 3 other hoses hope it makes sense because thats what is wrong with mine i found it over the weekend but its hard to fix because its so hard to get to
  • Get it into a known good reoair shop, they should have a (GOOD) computer code reader,and tell you why you ck eng light is on. Be sure to check your trans fluid level and the color and smell of fluid, it should be pink or lt red on some white paper, it should not smell burnt or nasty. If it is brown or smells bad, it's too late and it's tlme to pay the piper, If it's red and smells ok, then you may just need a switch or sensor. Hope this helps,
  • My 2003 2.3L Focus, manual transmission, has begun to vibrate and bog a bit when accelerating through the gears. The vibration is worst in 1st and 2nd gear but is apparent in all gears now. There is no check engine light nor does anything else do anything out of the ordinary. Basically I have just lost some of the zip. I have read some other posts and maybe it is a motor mount issue? It currently has just over 100,000 miles. I have taken it in and the mechanics say nothing is wrong. imagine that. Help?
  • razz44razz44 Posts: 7
    could be motor mount and could be the transmission,change the fluid and check mounts on the motor
  • Motor mounts could well be your vib, but they will not cause you to loose power. are you sure you don't have an eng miss ?
  • 0311vn0311vn Posts: 47
    My 01 Focus has 135K miles on it and I have never changed the timing or serpentine belts. The Focus maintenance schedule states 120K miles for changing the timing belt.

    My questions are: should the serpentine belt be changed with the timing belt as a preventive maintenance thing. Also, I'm told the water pump is not driven by the timing belt on a Focus as it is with other four cylinder engines. Should the water pump be changed with a timing belt change to avoid labor expenses to get at it later on?
  • dcalixdcalix Posts: 1
    you dont have to replace the water pump at the timing belt replacement it right next to the timing cover but if you want to do pm the car it would be wise to change it and the belts while there in there cause you have to lower motor to get to the timing belt
  • You don't have to repl the water pump at the timing belt replacement but, This IS the time to do it. You will never be any closer. If you have high miles, this will be money well spent.
  • my 2002 ford focus with the zetec engine when ever any kind of power drain(rad fan going on,turning on heater fan) feels like it is going to stall.Have replaced battery already and when checked they said alternator is over charging.
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