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Ford Focus Engine Problems



  • sk69sk69 Posts: 4
    Thanks pf_flyer and oldfordmech. Sometimes the car just sits for 2 days or so - no starting problems so far (too small of a leak?). I couldn't find the valve one the fuel rail. I have a 2.3L PZEV 2004 - does it look different in this one?
  • If you find your fuel rail, follow it back to where your fuel lines coming from and going back to the tank, you should find the valve before getting back to the fuel lines as they come up from the under side of the body. The valve may have a black valve stem cover on it, but you do have one, I'm sure. I'll do some more research and get back to you, later this week, I've been away from them for a few years but I still have an in with the old timers.
  • sk69sk69 Posts: 4
    Thanks oldfordmech - I certainly looked in the wrong spot but no need anymore. It was a loose spark plug. Might have happened during the 60k service at the dealership but of course can't prove it...
  • Hi
    Dropped the wife's 2006, 25,000 mile, 1.6 (Duratec) Focus in for its 3 yr service this afternoon. Service manager phoned this evening to say that they have broken 2 sparkplugs off in the cylinder head, whilst trying to remove them, as per service requirements.
    Now they want ME to pay for them to remove the cylinder head and repair, I don't think so mate!!!
    Has anyone heard of a similar problem ?
    Service history is complete and with main dealer
  • anchusaanchusa Posts: 1
    Hello. My question is, what would make my (bought new) 06 Focus overheat? It doesn't happen consistently, but about every month or so it overheats just going a few highway miles, only to find there is no coolant in the system. It's happened about 6 times in the past five months. The dealer keeps saying its a vacuum lock, it's "air-bound". The fifth time he changed the thermostat, hoping that was it. It wasn't. They've done pressure test after pressure test, only to find it's "okay". I thought vacuum locks only happened during the summer, because of the heat? It's winter.

    My own mechanic says the coolant is probably being burned up in the engine because of a head gasket leak or crack (considering the head is aluminum). No visible leaks with putting a large piece of cardboard under the car for a month to see. Nothing. No sign of coolant in the oil either.

    I've been late to work each time (work only about 5 miles away), and was warned I will soon be disciplined if it happens again. This problem is not only causing me frustration, but could cost me my job! What should I do? They won't listen to my mechanic. The dealer just reassures me it won't happen again, and they've finally fixed the problem, but it still overheats. Time to drag out the lawyer?
  • oldfordmecholdfordmech Posts: 124
    Find a mechanic with an exhaust gas tester for the radiator, as I remember it was a glass or plastic tube what had a blue liquid in it, and a squeeze bulb on top. The liquid would turn yellow if it detected exhaust gasses. Also, have someone test your pressure cap.You can also hookup a pressure tester with the eng warmed up and see if the pressure climbs very fastwhen started back up. A slow rise is normal but it should be very slow, if it comes up fast then you have a bad head gasket or a cracked head from over heating.
    Hope this helps you.
  • dmeecedmeece Posts: 4
    My daughter's 03 Focus ZTS sedan 16v Zytec engine has been stalling while in park or in gear. Advance Auto Parts code says it was the Mass Air Flow and O2 Sensor in bank 1 sensor 1. We changed both of those and that helped it some. It no longer seems to be stalling while parked and idles pretting steady around 800 rpms while in drive. Reverse is still rough though. Anyway, I am now unsure what the problem could be. Is it fuel related, idle related, fluid related, in need of a tune-up??? Anyone ever experience this before? Could it be the PCV valve or hose, and if so, where the heck are they? I looked for that before and was never able to locate them?

    Any help would be greatly appreciated. Thanks.
  • royglenroyglen Posts: 2
    My 01' Focus is stalling when running for a hour or so. It seemed to help for a while when I changed the fuel filter, but is starting to get worse again. It seems to help if I keep the gas tank pretty full so I wonder if I have some dirt or water in my fuel tank. Does anyone know how to drain the tank? I thought about siphoning it out but I wonder if that would get everything. Any ideas?
  • I have a vacum leak around the carb,and i cant find it .it makes my car idle bad and will shut off if u dont put the gas on sum. 2001 ford focus zx3 can anyone help
  • Take a can of spray carb cleaner and with eng running, spray w/nozzle pointed at each intake manifolf runner where it bolts to the cyl head. If eng RPM raise or starts to idle normally, you found your leak. Look at your vacumn label by radiator and try to locate each line and check that both ends are connected and not cracked or brittle. you can spray cleaner around them and see if it changes the idle
    If you don't find your leak, you have an idle air control valve,it's round, about 3" long,
    w/electrical plug on 1 end and mounted to intake manifold w/2 8mm bolts. you should be able to find a new one at a NAPA store.
    Hope this helps you.
  • Hello I have an AT 2001 Ford Focus, never had problems with it before but shortly after stopping for some gas when I got on the highway and got it up to 55mph and turned on cruise control, its like it wouldn't kick into gear and when I would put on the gas the mph would only rev the engine and the mph would decrease. I pulled over and noticed the check engine light was on.... I had to get off the highway so I tryed starting it and I was able to pick up speed very slowly as it would shift to higher mph, its only when I press on the gas harder that it does it again (revs and reduces mph until the car is stopped) Please let me know what you guys think happened? Did I get bad gas? Did something go out?
  • check the vacum hose on the inside on the side of the engine its hard to see but u have to look hard to see it u may have a hole in the vacum hose its right below the carb below 3 other hoses hope it makes sense because thats what is wrong with mine i found it over the weekend but its hard to fix because its so hard to get to
  • Get it into a known good reoair shop, they should have a (GOOD) computer code reader,and tell you why you ck eng light is on. Be sure to check your trans fluid level and the color and smell of fluid, it should be pink or lt red on some white paper, it should not smell burnt or nasty. If it is brown or smells bad, it's too late and it's tlme to pay the piper, If it's red and smells ok, then you may just need a switch or sensor. Hope this helps,
  • My 2003 2.3L Focus, manual transmission, has begun to vibrate and bog a bit when accelerating through the gears. The vibration is worst in 1st and 2nd gear but is apparent in all gears now. There is no check engine light nor does anything else do anything out of the ordinary. Basically I have just lost some of the zip. I have read some other posts and maybe it is a motor mount issue? It currently has just over 100,000 miles. I have taken it in and the mechanics say nothing is wrong. imagine that. Help?
  • razz44razz44 Posts: 7
    could be motor mount and could be the transmission,change the fluid and check mounts on the motor
  • Motor mounts could well be your vib, but they will not cause you to loose power. are you sure you don't have an eng miss ?
  • 0311vn0311vn Posts: 48
    My 01 Focus has 135K miles on it and I have never changed the timing or serpentine belts. The Focus maintenance schedule states 120K miles for changing the timing belt.

    My questions are: should the serpentine belt be changed with the timing belt as a preventive maintenance thing. Also, I'm told the water pump is not driven by the timing belt on a Focus as it is with other four cylinder engines. Should the water pump be changed with a timing belt change to avoid labor expenses to get at it later on?
  • dcalixdcalix Posts: 1
    you dont have to replace the water pump at the timing belt replacement it right next to the timing cover but if you want to do pm the car it would be wise to change it and the belts while there in there cause you have to lower motor to get to the timing belt
  • You don't have to repl the water pump at the timing belt replacement but, This IS the time to do it. You will never be any closer. If you have high miles, this will be money well spent.
  • my 2002 ford focus with the zetec engine when ever any kind of power drain(rad fan going on,turning on heater fan) feels like it is going to stall.Have replaced battery already and when checked they said alternator is over charging.
  • you have a short in the wire of the alternator check the wires
  • If your alt is putting out over 14.5 volts it can overheat your battery and warp the plates inside the battery. Have battery tested and test voltage at battery with the eng running at 1000 rpm. should be 14.2 but not over 14.5. make sure both ends of battery cables are CLEAN & TIGHT. If overcharging you will have to replace ALT and possiblly the BATTERY
  • can the alternator on a 2002 ford focus zetec be removed from the top or dose it have to come out from under the car?
  • from under the car
  • :sick: I purchased a brand new 2009 Tonic Ford Focus TDCi on October 29, 2009 here in the Philippines for about 25,500 us Dollars. During my inspection of the unit when I was picking it up, I noticed a smudge on the chrome plate in front of the hood of the car. I asked them to fix the smudge, they tried to use rubbing compound and polishing but it couldn’t be removed, so they opted to exchange the chrome plate with another one attached to another vehicle. Upon leaving the dealer with the new car, I noticed that the steering wheel wasn’t centered and it was veering to the right by about 15 degrees. I immediately called the agent who sold me the car who promptly told me that they will also fix this problem right away. As I was already on the highway on the way homeat the time, I told him that I’ll just bring back the car the following week. They did fix the steering problem the following week as they had to rotate the tires, do wheel balancing and wheel alignment which took about a day to complete.

    Then on November 8, 2009, I noticed that the driver side power windows wasn’t working anymore as it would go halfway up then go back down when closing it. It would take several presses on the power window button to finally get the window back up. Again I called the dealer regarding this and would have it repaired on my 1000 kilometres preventive maintenance call which I had scheduled with the dealer for November 13, 2009.

    But on November 11, 2009, at around 5 PM as I was cruising at around 70 to 80 kph on a Highway, the car’s engine suddenly and without warning abruptly died on me, the “engine malfunction” indicator came up, the oil pressure, battery warning, ESP lights came on. The steering wheel of the car started to freeze up making controlling the vehicle very hard, and the brakes became non-responsive. I was almost hit from behind by an SUV and several other vehicles blew their horns at me. I was just barely able to force the steering wheel to point at the shoulder and park there. On the shoulder, I turned the car keys to the off position and then tried to restart the engine. Upon putting the keys back to the ON position, Engine Malfunction indicator already on, on start up, the engine cranks up but wouldn’t start.

    I called up Ford’s Emergency Roadside Assistance who sent a tow-truck to pick up the vehicle. I waited 3 hours for their tow-truck to arrive. I was left in shock with the incident but thankful that I was apparently not hit during that engine failure and I had no one waiting for me when I was stranded on the highway for 3 hours. I rode with the tow truck back to the and didn’t accompany them back to the dealer for delivery of the defective car.

    I overlooked the initial problems with the vehicle as I thought these inconvenient but minor problems with the car. I had gotten their 5 year warranty and a comprehensive insurance with Act of God coverage for peace of mind. I reasonably felt safe about my purchase. But when the November 11, 2009 incident happened, it was the straw that broke the camel’s back. I was almost hurt during that incident, I NO LONGER FEEL SAFE driving that car. I’m not the only one using that car; I don’t want to place the lives of my family who rides with me in danger.

    Ford Group Philippines said that the culprit was a faulty “PCM”, basically the computer module which controls the engine’s power. They said they had replaced the faulty PCM unit and the car is now in good running condition. But even if they have changed the faulty part, what caused that part to break down in the first place? The car was running fine before it happened and it just suddenly dies. I don’t think there is really a way to reassure me that what happened on November 11, 2009 wouldn’t happen again with that particular car. As prior to that major incident, there were at least 3 other faults with this supposedly brand new vehicle.

    I am requesting the dealer/Ford Philippines that the unit I bought from them be replaced with another unit entirely and to make sure that this type of thing never occurs again as it appears they have poor quality control upon releasing so called brand new units.

    It's really been frustrating as the Philippines has poor consumer rights but I expected more from a Global company. The vehicle was assembled here in the Philippines in Ford's local plant. I have talked to the consumer officer at ford and the manager of the dealer and they just told me the unit was now repaired and in good "running conditon". I don't want that car anymore. It's dangerous.
  • does my really fit in engine problems.. it's more of a lemon 13 day old car sir and ford is giving the run around about giving me a replacement.
  • Focus ZTS 2002, manual tran, 115K miles.
    Since about 90K miles I notice the following problem.
    When there is a snow on the road engine jerks time to time.
    Only when it is snow, not rain.
    Approximately once per couple minutes.
    Feels like engine stops running for a a brief moment, but so far does not stall.
    Check Engine light is off.
    This is very annoying because such jerks are not good for transmission and I am afraid at one showy day engine could stall.
    I was in mechanical shop couple times with this issue but no luck.
    Some wires were replaced but it did not help.
    What this could be?
  • Have you replaced your spark plugs or plug wires ? With your mileage, it would not hurt to replace both these items. After doing this, if still jerks
    let me know..Ps - Use good qualty parts on plugs & wires
  • Yes, spark plugs and their wires were replaced about a year ago, during 105K maintenance. Still jerks when show in the road.
    As I can guess snow gets into some sensitive area of engine.
    Have no idea what it could be.
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