Thanks for the analytical analysis - sounds like an engineer talking. I believe that the benefits of a TRD or K&N air-filter, purchased at a good price (I paid $44 for mine with cleaning kit)) can be justified. I generally change my regular air filters every 10-12k miles, and keep my car for a minimum of 4 years. Assuming that a regular air filter costs $12-15, my investment is fully justified. Any performance benefits are a plus.
The only benefit of the K&N, or the like, is at WOT, otherwise the throttle plate itself is the MAJOR restriction to airflow.
But be sure and remove it each and every time you have the car serviced, K&N filters have become famous for contaminating MAF/IAT sensors with oil and then subsequently coated with dirt particles.
Many thanks for the excellent advice. I'll be sure to have Toyota clean both sensors at my service intervals. I should have no problems with Toyota performing this service since they endorse and market the TRD air-filters for use on their products (let's hope I'm right)
When you bought the car you were REQUIRED to sign a contract stating that you understood that the selling dealer was not responsible for warranty repairs.
What do you mean by that? Bob said he was going to use the TRD (Toyota Racing Development) air filter, provided by Toyota of course, not an aftermarket air filter like K&N.
When I bought the car, I checked with Toyota re: the TRD air filter and they stated that the use of this filter will NOT void the Toyota warrantee. In fact, I could have bought the TRD filter in their parts dept. at a high marked-up price (ie. $80).
People who have test driven 2008 LEs or heard about it, do you know whether the lag in throttle response problem in has been taken care of in the 2008 model? Also, is the problem prevalent in V6 models or only limited to 4 cylinders?
I finally saw a Camry that had the satellite radio installed and was very disappointed with the display. It appeared that the display could only show one line of information - for example, artist or song title, and that you had to hit the text button to toggle between them. Also, it looked like song and artist titles were cut of at 10 characters and did not scroll across the screen - which made for some interesting guessing about what the titles were!
My $80 portable Audiovox radio that I have in my current car has a a 5 line display that lets you see the station name, station number, artist, and song all on one screen. Is it really true that a $25 - 30K car can't achieve this same feat?
I purchased an 08 Camry SE with the V6 engine. Have over 1400 miles on it and so far no problems with throttle lag or the transmission. The DBW system takes a little time to get used to it, but it works well.
"..noticing a short lag delay when you really try to accelerate..."
"really try to accelerate" implies a HARD, serious level, downshift, TOUGH on the gearbox clutches if not FULLY and FIRMLY seated before the engine TORQUE starts rising in response to your depression of the gas pedal.
"To protect the drive train" it appears that Toyota and Lexus are using DBW to delay the onset of rising engine torque when you depress the gas pedal for acceleration in order to give the downshifting clutches in the transaxle time to fully and firmly SEAT.
This effect seems to be much more pronounced if by pure happenstance you have just recently "dithered" the gas pedal, on, then off, then back on again. My guess is that the previous shifting from this "dithering" results in EXHAUSTING any reserve ATF pressure and with the engine now at idle it might take a few seconds for the "smallish" volume ATF pump to rebuild the ATF pressure sufficiently enough to fully and firmly seat the newly downshifted clutches.
There is a TSB issued by Toyota in the spring of '03, shorty after adopting DBW for the Camry, that adequately describes the three circumstances in which this acceleration delay is most likely to occur.
I purchased the 08 Camry V6 two weeks ago. The very next day I noticed a popping noise any time I went over a bump or rough road. After two days in the shop the tech. discovered a bad left wheel strut. It was fixed and the noise is gone. However, I am experiencing a short delay or lag on the transmission whenever I accelerate hard. I thought I just needed to break in the new engine. But after reading the reviews it may be the transmission. I'm going to drive it for a couple hundred miles and see if the issue goes away. I'll let everyone know later. By the way, I really like the package on this car. I have the Upgraded JBL stereo with 6 disc changer and Bluetooth phone. Also, the car had a rear DVD mounted for the kids. The DVD unit is mounted in the center console.
Thanks for the info wwest. I'm new to Toyota. I have driven Hondas all my life so I guess I just need to be a little patient and see how this Camry performs.
New to this but would like any ones opinion on the latest news about the problems with the V6 engine. Am just about to buy a new '08 XLE Camry then I heard this news...really not sure what to do. I have had an XLE 1992 for 15yrs. till it got totaled...never had a thing wrong with the car, was still running like new. Any thoughts will help!
Hi rewllw: Definetely look at other alternatives to the V6 Camry. If I would have know that my SE V6 would drive like it does before I bought it, I would have bought something else. It's all about the quality of the car and the transmission. Look into other alternatives such as the Altima or Accord. Have a great day :lemon:
A reporter seeks to talk with owners and serious shoppers of the 2007 or 2008 Toyota Camry who are also parents. If you are interested in commenting on your experience, please reply to jfallon@edmunds.com no later than Thursday, November 15, 2007 and include your city and state of residence as well as the age of your child/ren.
"the latest news about the problems with the V6 engine."
Define "latest"/ We've covered this issue at lenght on the transmission problem forum. The problem was with early production V6 Camry from model year 2007. Mackabee
My 08 Camry SE V6 now has over 1800 miles on it. Still no problems with the 6 speed auto trans. My only problem is a slight steering wheel vibration at 68 to 70 MPH. Dealer check the tires and re-balanced them. Three needed add'l weights. This seem to work for a few days and unfortunately the vibration has returned. Car goes in tomorrow (Sat.) for the second round of tire/wheel inspection.
I am going to request the dealer to do a dynamometer type wheel test with the car on rollers and speedo at the 70MPH mark.
I just crossed over the 1000 mile mark and every thing is running great! The earlier issue with the acceleration seems to have gone away. This car is really fast and powerful. On several occasions, I have accidentally peeled-off. So far, so good!!!
Have owned 5 Camry 4 cylinder LE models since the late 80's, still own the 2002 and 1998 and have been pleased. Yesterday, drove the 2008 4cyl LE for about 10 miles giving it a good test on highway/curves etc. Was surprised and very disappointed with the acceleration/transmission action vs. either my 1998 or 2002. Otherwise the 2008 seemed fine; the sound system is beautiful. Returning, asked the Sales Mgr. about the transmission...he said it was changed in 2007. We will look elsewhere.
I have an 08 Camry SE with the V6 engine and 6 speed auto. Your test drive of the 4 cyl. version can not compare with the performance of the V6 car. I have been told by many owners of the 4 cyl. version of the Camry that the car lacks power.
Try the V6 version and you'll be very pleasantly surprised.
I just bought a new Camry V6. Noticed that the tire pressure on the side panel stated the correct PSI as 30. The dealer said it should be 32 which is correct.. I have the standard 16 inch rims.
As long as everything is the way it was when it came from the factory, I'd go with the 30 psi. I have the inline-4 and my door psi says 30.
Unless they have a good reason and can convince you to go to 32, I'd go with the door. If not, get it in writing that they set the pressure to 32 in case of any abnormal tire wear or potential problem you might run into. Just cover your [non-permissible content removed].
I normally say go with the factory rather than the dealer. But 2 psi higher isn't going to make a difference in tread wear, it's within the margin of error of cheaper tire pressure gauges, and it gives you a cushion against ambient temperature drops (every 10 degrees lower in temp. results in a 1-psi pressure drop).
I'm the latest guy wanting to buy an 08'Camry xle or se & concerned with the transmission issues. Could someone(maybe macabee) summarize the best odds when buying one of these. Some say the problem is with the 6 cyl, some say it's the 4 cyl. Do I want a "j" in the vin or not?? Has Toyota put out any official statements re: changes for 08'?? Re: mntnman.... you say, "will look elsewhere". Found a good replacement yet? Thanks anyone for the help.
I own a 07 4 cyl I4. Let me try and summarize to the best of my knowledge.
There was a problem very early in 07 models, called the snap ring problem. It was on the 6 cylinder, 6 speed automatics. This was a manufacturing defect, caught early, resolved in manufacturing, and the early cars that had this problem got new transmissions. Don't have to worry about this.
There was a problem with 4 cylinder, 5 speed automatics, which had symptoms of hesitation and/or cruise control constantly forcing downshifting. There were 2 TSB's issued to resolve this problem. I've posted copies of the TSB's and don't have the dates handy, but I believe the first was in October timeframe of 2006, which was superceded by one in Aug 2007. I've personally had both the hesitation and cruise problems. These TSB's have 'for the masses', resolved both of these issues. There are one or two folks who have posted on this board, that indicate that they still have a cruise control downshifting problem. The TSB is a software re-load, takes about 1/2 hour for the dealer to load.
There has been reported a transmission shift 'flare', which occurs on some 6 cylinder, 6 speed vehicles. This occurs usually only once when it is cold, and if I remember correctly occurs between either 1st/2nd, or 2nd/3rd. The symptom is that the transmission appears to not shift quickly enough and goes thru neutral, allowing the engine rpm's to flare up an additional 500-1000 rpm before it drops into the higher gear. You will find a posting with a video clip of the problem. Toyota has tried replacing solenoids, and replacing transmissions. Sometimes the problem is resolved, other times there are reported lemon law buy backs. To my understanding, this is still an outstanding potential problem.
I believe there might also be some owners with a hesitation on 6 cylinder/6speeds, but it appears very sparse and ill defined as compared to the more widespread earlier 4 cylinder issue. I've heard less on the boards about this issue.
No difference between Japanese and American assembled vehicles....same parts.
Personally, I don't have any concerns about recommending a 4 cylinder purchase, which are the majority of the models manufactured.
I think you gave a pretty good summary. I'd also say the 4-cylinder is a safe bet, but the V6 still looks iffy at this point. Japanese vs. American-made doesn't matter, nor does 2007 vs. 2008.
Thanks kiawah & 210delray............"nor does 2007 vs. 2008". Does this mean my chances for transmission problems are just as great with an 08' as with an 07'?? If you were gun shy what other sedan make would you look at?
I have read that the new Camry comes with doughnut tire. Can it be replaced with a full-size tire? or would it just not fit in the trunk?
Also, how good is the Toyota factory installed Navigation system when compared with Garmin Nuvi series in terms of accuracy & Points of Interest Database? Does it match up?
Nothing has changed from 2007 to 2008. One day the cars coming off the line are badged 2007, the next week they are 2008's.
If I was looking for a 4 cylinder, I'd feel safe with another Toyota, and would probably choose that over a 1st year Accord.
If I was looking for a 6 cylinder, I'd personally choose neither the Toyota or Honda.....and try to wait it out a year to see how the new Honda performs with all the early implementors, and see whether Toyota announces a fix of any sort for the flare.
A 2007 Accord would be an excellent value and safe, if you can find one from what is left.
The only difference is for the 4 cylinder is the TSB that corrects the smoothness/hesitation issue is already done on the '08. I am not sure when or if it was done on the '07. But if you get an '07, it only takes a half an hour to apply the TSB.
You're right that the new Camry (2007-08) comes with a temp spare, just like almost every other car out there (I'm not counting pickups or SUVs). I don't know if a full-size tire would fit in the well; my speculation is no.
I don't know anything about the Camry's nav system.
Dealer had a couple 1 year used 07'Avalons....would prefer the camry for styling, but ok with the avalon. Anybody know when the avalon was last re-designed? Is it a different transmission than the Camry? Anyone know of any problems with it?
The fact that most cars come with temp spares was a discovery for me. I've 98 and 00 Camry and both come with full size spare. Do you know if the new Accord comes with a full size spare?
Don't you guys think that temp spare is a deal breaker for someone who frequently makes ling trips (>500 miles) especially night driving. I'm surprised that not many people have discussed this.
On a large SUV vehicle with a heavy GVW it would matter, but for the average typical vehicle a doughnut is fine. I used to not like it on principal, but then realized I've only ever needed a spare once in probably a million miles and it really is a waste of space and weight.
Avalon is huge and very comfortable. It has air suspension and I've heard that it has high cost of repair. I would advise that you should try to stick with the Camry because:
1. More standard parts (hence cheaper & easily available) 2. New Camry is bigger (for most people) 3. More people have it (faster troubleshooting, push for TSB's etc.) 4. Lesser depreciation over time
e.g. transmission issues were there is Lexus ES 300/330 also but only got recognized once the defects of new Camry were highlighted.
In my opinion it's always cost effective to stay with the more mainstream model. If you can comfortably afford to upgrade I would suggest an ES 350 rather than an intermediate Avalon.
Toyota/Lexus were one of the last holdouts to stay with full-size spares for their cars. The Accord has had a temporary spare since at least 1995.
It has been many years since I had to replace a flat tire; and I can't ever recall doing it on the side of a busy highway.
But I check my tire pressure once a week, which is a great way to find out if you've got a nail or something else stuck in a tire, as the pressure of the affected tire will gradually go down compared to the other three. And on a long trip, I check them every morning before starting off. Gives you plenty of time to act before you're stranded.
I just bought an 08 Camry SE and I have experienced the problem that you describe when climbing hills or even moderately high overpasses. I have the 5 speed automatic so I just shift from D to 4 before I begin climbing. While this cause the engine to run at a higher RPM, at least I am able to maintain my speed without the annoying downshifting.
Cruise control downshifting when climbing hills is to be expected, and will happen with every car. This downshifting problem would occur on roads where you wouldn't expect it to need to downshift. Prior to the TSB, it would downshift radically at even the slightest of pitches on an Interstate. I had one stretch of road (I think it's about 7 miles long), where it used to downshift about 20 times. None of my other vehicles would ever downshift, and now after the TSB applied the Camry doesn't downshift once.
I guess my frustration is twofold - first, I live in Florida so I would rarely expect it to downshift as it's pretty flat here. Second, I just replaced a 1998 Altima that never downshifted while the cruise control was on. With that said, I rent a lot of cars for work and the Camry's performance is typical of most of the mid-size (and smaller) cars that I have driven in the last 3-4 years.
Well, one thing to keep in mind is the '98 Altima had a 4-speed transmission. The Camry has a 5-speed, and the top gear is pretty "tall," meaning that the car will have to downshift into 4th for relatively small upgrades.
More gears = more shifts, but greater fuel efficiency, at least in theory.
My 2008 SE V6 Camry will not allow me to maintain a constant internal air circulation. After pushing the button in for internal air circulation the indicator light comes on for internal air. However, after a short time period the light goes out and I’m getting outside air. This is an issue because I allergies to a lot of different pollens. Is there something wrong or is there a sensor changing this setting automatically?
If you do not have the A/C on/enabled many new cars will revert to fresh mode within a minute or two. In recirculate mode there is too much danger of the passenger cabin atmosphere's dewpoint getting to the point wherein the interior surface of the windshield (windows...) will fog over, sometimes VERY quickly or suddenly.
This is moreso of an issue/problem with vehicles of asian or US manufacture that use the seriously FLAWED NipponDenso or Denso US climate control designs. Most vehicles of european manufacture use the Bosch design. Those and some US vehicles that do not yet use the Denso design are not as much prone to this problem.
Human metabolism, breathing/perpiration, continually adds moisture to the "local" atmosphere and if there is no fresh air inlet, or "free" exhaust outlet, the Rh (relative humidity) could climb to the point of windshield fogging, especially during the winter months.
Today's cars are too well sealed against "conditioned" air escaping and the A/C therefore having to work harder resulting in lower FE.
This is an extraodinary problem for the Denso designs in that due to a unique patent they have, and insist on using, they do not have a method, cannot use a method, wherein windshield fogging can be quickly overcome.
Also your car has a pollen filter anyway, so it really shouldn't matter if the air is recirculated or not. Just make sure the filter is changed on schedule, or even more frequently!
I have the same problem with my 2007 Camry. At 800 miles I replaced my wheels at Discount Tire. I had vibration pronlem prior to it. I thought since I was going to get the wheels changed, it would be gone. Discount Tire store tried four times to fix it, but they could not. So I drove until 5000 miles. When I had the service done, I told about this vibration around 65 mph. I was told that it was fixed. But, right after I left the service I experienced vibration again. I scheduled another service. This time it seems better. However, I still experience vibration around 70. What do you think I should do? Has your car been fixed yet?
After 2 trips to the dealer, the wheel vibration problem has been reduced somewhat, however I am still not satisfied. I am trying to get the dealer to do a dynamic road test using a dynamometer stand with rollers. As I drive the car over 75MPH (yes - I realize that is over legal speed limits), the vibration gets more pronounced. My concern is that the problem may not be the wheel/tires but perhaps a drivetrain issue.
WWEST: appreciate your input/thoughts on this issue.
Comments
But be sure and remove it each and every time you have the car serviced, K&N filters have become famous for contaminating MAF/IAT sensors with oil and then subsequently coated with dirt particles.
Many thanks for the excellent advice. I'll be sure to have Toyota clean both sensors at my service intervals. I should have no problems with Toyota performing this service since they endorse and market the TRD air-filters for use on their products (let's hope I'm right)
Bobvee
When I bought the car, I checked with Toyota re: the TRD air filter and they stated that the use of this filter will NOT void the Toyota warrantee. In fact, I could have bought the TRD filter in their parts dept. at a high marked-up price (ie. $80).
Bobvee
People who have test driven 2008 LEs or heard about it, do you know whether the lag in throttle response problem in has been taken care of in the 2008 model? Also, is the problem prevalent in V6 models or only limited to 4 cylinders?
My $80 portable Audiovox radio that I have in my current car has a a 5 line display that lets you see the station name, station number, artist, and song all on one screen. Is it really true that a $25 - 30K car can't achieve this same feat?
I purchased an 08 Camry SE with the V6 engine. Have over 1400 miles on it and so far no problems with throttle lag or the transmission. The DBW system takes a little time to get used to it, but it works well.
What is different about DBW vs. traditional cable throttle?
If the system works properly then you shouldn't notice any differences.
My Honda cars had DBW since 2002 and never experienced throttle lag or other issues. Many people don't even know their cars have DBW.
Please clarify. My father-in-law is considering another Camry trading his 2004 XLE-4cyl.
"really try to accelerate" implies a HARD, serious level, downshift, TOUGH on the gearbox clutches if not FULLY and FIRMLY seated before the engine TORQUE starts rising in response to your depression of the gas pedal.
"To protect the drive train" it appears that Toyota and Lexus are using DBW to delay the onset of rising engine torque when you depress the gas pedal for acceleration in order to give the downshifting clutches in the transaxle time to fully and firmly SEAT.
This effect seems to be much more pronounced if by pure happenstance you have just recently "dithered" the gas pedal, on, then off, then back on again. My guess is that the previous shifting from this "dithering" results in EXHAUSTING any reserve ATF pressure and with the engine now at idle it might take a few seconds for the "smallish" volume ATF pump to rebuild the ATF pressure sufficiently enough to fully and firmly seat the newly downshifted clutches.
There is a TSB issued by Toyota in the spring of '03, shorty after adopting DBW for the Camry, that adequately describes the three circumstances in which this acceleration delay is most likely to occur.
Definetely look at other alternatives to the V6 Camry. If I would have know that my SE V6 would drive like it does before I bought it, I would have bought something else. It's all about the quality of the car and the transmission.
Look into other alternatives such as the Altima or Accord.
Have a great day :lemon:
Define "latest"/ We've covered this issue at lenght on the transmission problem forum. The problem was with early production V6 Camry from model year 2007.
Mackabee
Heads UP..!
There appear to be a few posts/complaints popping up here and there about '08 Toyota's and Lexiis with hesitation problems.
I am going to request the dealer to do a dynamometer type wheel test with the car on rollers and speedo at the 70MPH mark.
Anyone else experiencing this problem.
Try the V6 version and you'll be very pleasantly surprised.
Unless they have a good reason and can convince you to go to 32, I'd go with the door. If not, get it in writing that they set the pressure to 32 in case of any abnormal tire wear or potential problem you might run into. Just cover your [non-permissible content removed].
There was a problem very early in 07 models, called the snap ring problem. It was on the 6 cylinder, 6 speed automatics. This was a manufacturing defect, caught early, resolved in manufacturing, and the early cars that had this problem got new transmissions. Don't have to worry about this.
There was a problem with 4 cylinder, 5 speed automatics, which had symptoms of hesitation and/or cruise control constantly forcing downshifting. There were 2 TSB's issued to resolve this problem. I've posted copies of the TSB's and don't have the dates handy, but I believe the first was in October timeframe of 2006, which was superceded by one in Aug 2007. I've personally had both the hesitation and cruise problems. These TSB's have 'for the masses', resolved both of these issues. There are one or two folks who have posted on this board, that indicate that they still have a cruise control downshifting problem. The TSB is a software re-load, takes about 1/2 hour for the dealer to load.
There has been reported a transmission shift 'flare', which occurs on some 6 cylinder, 6 speed vehicles. This occurs usually only once when it is cold, and if I remember correctly occurs between either 1st/2nd, or 2nd/3rd. The symptom is that the transmission appears to not shift quickly enough and goes thru neutral, allowing the engine rpm's to flare up an additional 500-1000 rpm before it drops into the higher gear. You will find a posting with a video clip of the problem. Toyota has tried replacing solenoids, and replacing transmissions. Sometimes the problem is resolved, other times there are reported lemon law buy backs. To my understanding, this is still an outstanding potential problem.
I believe there might also be some owners with a hesitation on 6 cylinder/6speeds, but it appears very sparse and ill defined as compared to the more widespread earlier 4 cylinder issue. I've heard less on the boards about this issue.
No difference between Japanese and American assembled vehicles....same parts.
Personally, I don't have any concerns about recommending a 4 cylinder purchase, which are the majority of the models manufactured.
Others can correct if I've left something out.
I have read that the new Camry comes with doughnut tire. Can it be replaced with a full-size tire? or would it just not fit in the trunk?
Also, how good is the Toyota factory installed Navigation system when compared with Garmin Nuvi series in terms of accuracy & Points of Interest Database? Does it match up?
Thanks in advance!
Nothing has changed from 2007 to 2008. One day the cars coming off the line are badged 2007, the next week they are 2008's.
If I was looking for a 4 cylinder, I'd feel safe with another Toyota, and would probably choose that over a 1st year Accord.
If I was looking for a 6 cylinder, I'd personally choose neither the Toyota or Honda.....and try to wait it out a year to see how the new Honda performs with all the early implementors, and see whether Toyota announces a fix of any sort for the flare.
A 2007 Accord would be an excellent value and safe, if you can find one from what is left.
I'm sure you'll get a zillion different opinions.
I don't know anything about the Camry's nav system.
Thanks
The fact that most cars come with temp spares was a discovery for me. I've 98 and 00 Camry and both come with full size spare. Do you know if the new Accord comes with a full size spare?
Don't you guys think that temp spare is a deal breaker for someone who frequently makes ling trips (>500 miles) especially night driving. I'm surprised that not many people have discussed this.
1. More standard parts (hence cheaper & easily available)
2. New Camry is bigger (for most people)
3. More people have it (faster troubleshooting, push for TSB's etc.)
4. Lesser depreciation over time
e.g. transmission issues were there is Lexus ES 300/330 also but only got recognized once the defects of new Camry were highlighted.
In my opinion it's always cost effective to stay with the more mainstream model. If you can comfortably afford to upgrade I would suggest an ES 350 rather than an intermediate Avalon.
In case you might be interested in the ES 350 that another poster recommended, here is the link to the ES group.
It has been many years since I had to replace a flat tire; and I can't ever recall doing it on the side of a busy highway.
But I check my tire pressure once a week, which is a great way to find out if you've got a nail or something else stuck in a tire, as the pressure of the affected tire will gradually go down compared to the other three. And on a long trip, I check them every morning before starting off. Gives you plenty of time to act before you're stranded.
More gears = more shifts, but greater fuel efficiency, at least in theory.
This is moreso of an issue/problem with vehicles of asian or US manufacture that use the seriously FLAWED NipponDenso or Denso US climate control designs. Most vehicles of european manufacture use the Bosch design. Those and some US vehicles that do not yet use the Denso design are not as much prone to this problem.
Human metabolism, breathing/perpiration, continually adds moisture to the "local" atmosphere and if there is no fresh air inlet, or "free" exhaust outlet, the Rh (relative humidity) could climb to the point of windshield fogging, especially during the winter months.
Today's cars are too well sealed against "conditioned" air escaping and the A/C therefore having to work harder resulting in lower FE.
This is an extraodinary problem for the Denso designs in that due to a unique patent they have, and insist on using, they do not have a method, cannot use a method, wherein windshield fogging can be quickly overcome.
Thanks.
WWEST: appreciate your input/thoughts on this issue.
Thanks - bobvee