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Ford Expedition Electrical Problems



  • I recently changed my heater core on my 00 ford expedition xlt. after the dash was reinstalled and everything hooked up my truck wouldnt start. when I turn the ignition to start the interior lights flash off and nothing happens. there is a 10 amp fuse in the fuse dist box under the hood that keeps blowing when I change it. Im not sure where to look for the problem if its a shorted wire or something in the fuel ckt that needs to be reset or something. PLEASE HELP
  • My wife has a 05 Expedition. Occasionally it will not start during or after it rains. I have to jump the vehicle off and it cranks with no problem. The vehicle has exhibited this problem after being parked in the open and under the carport. I may have to jump it off in the morning and it then it cranks fine for weeks. On other occasions the vehicle cranks and she parks it at a store comes back out and it fails to crank. The only constant seems to be rain or high humidity. The battery tests good and no other electrical issues are noted. Has anyone had a similar situation and what was the fix.
  • i have a 2004 Expedition - same problems *posted to site over a year ago* Dealer ran through over $2400.00 replaced alt, battry, gems - still not fixed. I quit taking it to dealer. As long as I roll the interior light dial to off - no more problems. Please post if you figure this one out!! Thanks
  • I see many of the same issues and no too seem to have the same resolution....Has anyone tired a "superchip"? I know these are for reprogramming and getting better horsepower/gas mileage - but will it "re-align" electric programming too??
  • kd4kmzkd4kmz Posts: 19
    what exactly is your problem, I can't find your previous post kd4kmz
  • kd4kmzkd4kmz Posts: 19
    I am sorry, that is all you can say FORD OK bloggers lets try to make an update
    1997-2002 Water In Gem
    2003-2006 Running Board, Door Actuators, AC Actuators, Instrument Panel Issues
    2007-2009 Fuel system and latches
    All previous built in Michigan
    NHTSA Item Number: 637462
    Service Bulletin #: 15770
    Replacement #:
    Vehicle/Equipment Make: FORD
    Vehicle/Eqipment Model: EXPEDITION
    Model Year: n/a
    Mfg Component Code: 110000 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
    Date of Bulletin: 2002-04-01
    Date Added: 2002-11-26

    NHTSA Item Number: 50483
    Service Bulletin #: BC5207961001
    Replacement #:
    Vehicle/Equipment Make: FORD
    Vehicle/Eqipment Model: EXPEDITION
    Model Year: n/a
    Mfg Component Code: 110000 ELECTRICAL SYSTEM
    Date of Bulletin: 1996-10-01
    Date Added: 1997-04-24
    to look up all recalls and Bulletins, many ford dealerships or sites will tell you none but as you can see there are several
  • ok all its been awhile but we were having problems with the battery draining. we had replaced the battery, ran tests on the new battery and the alternator and it would be drained in less than an hour. Well we brought it to the dealer and they charged is $535 to tell us the the rear wiper was froze up (we never used it) so they disconnected it. We have not had any problems since! :)
  • I have the same prob with a 98 F 150. On cold mornings, the battery doesn't charge. Gradually, the dash lights, instruments, radio, and fan all go dead as the battery drains. As it slowly warms up, with the barely blowing fan, I can hear a click inside the dash, and then everything comes back on. I have been using a hair dryer or a heat gun to try and help send heat into the dash. I am sure it is a relay that doesn't make contact until it warms up, but no one seems to know about any relay like this. I really need an explanation on this one.
  • jaime7jaime7 Posts: 1
    Hey, Im new here looking for a solution to this issue thats been haunting me for a couple of years already and the dealer says they cant find a thing wrong?

    Well I know its electrical. Not all he time but some days when I get home and turn off my care, a couple of hours later get back in and my gauges are all up and the care wont start. Take the key out gauges still up close the door couple of hours later batterie is dead. Crazy I know! Now the funny thing is, I notice that it only happens in the "winter" and kinda when I use my windshield thats what im here about, if anyone can help or has had the same issue.

  • The windshield is leaking. Humidity/water is leaking onto the computer!!!! Seal the windshield, good Luck, it worked for me!!!! I was ready to launch mine in the bayou,until i finally got answers from my mechanic(not Ford)
    I also have an 01. My expedition would stay running when the keys were'nt in it.Lights blinking off and on. horn was blowing,lol. :mad: It got to the point of funny!!!! My sunroof was stuck on stupid.
    My mechanic told me his wifes' did the same thing. He told me to seal the windshield. Went down to Napa, and bought a tube of windshield gasket sealant. Applied around the corners,WALA, it never happened again. I can even use the drivethru carwash again!!!YEA!!!!! Good Luck!!! Ford wont help. This should.
  • Sounds like a bad alternator or voltage regulator. Fix is the same, replace the alternator.
  • vantraxelvantraxel Posts: 1
    edited February 2010
    Ok I bought a 2006 exp at auction and it had no side marker socket on passenger side so I put in one from napa ,

    Here is my ? I didn't check headlights before but both Headlights on passenger side are way dimmer than drivers side and when i turn them to brights the passenger side that should go bright goes dark? I thought it was bulbs so I put 2 new bulbs in a 9005 and a 9006 and it is still the same?
  • I replaced my gem out of a similar equiped exp for 100 and paid safelite approx 200 to install a new windshield and seal. Its a pain to get the module out but otherwise simple fix.
  • help my turn lights dont work any idea what the problem is?
  • have you checked the bulb and the fuse?
  • Thanks but this thing is been fix.
    the flasher was out and olso the fuse box, some how there was a short in the fuse box
    i replace this two things and it is working ok now.
    Thank you any ways.
  • This is one of the simple Expedition Gremlins to address: Replace the TPS switch. I have a 2001 with 4.6L, and the TPS started failing, which led to sometimes, surges, stuttering, other times just straight up-dying. No codes, no one could guess it...replace the TPS, and all should be well. Keep a small metric 1/4" socket set in the glovebox with a spare 20-months, you will need it again.

    This is just like keeping spare fuses and coils there also...because Ford Expeditions eat them all, like a fat guy on popcorn at the movie house. I bet I have put $1000 in coils into my Expedition in 5-years worth of time...not to mention the Bosch super platinum plugs, at $6 each.
  • Ok...I have a new problem and no one seems to guess this one yet. I have fought this truck for trust me on the fact that the battery, charging system, fusing system are all ok on this. Also, fuel pump relay is ok and set.

    My Expedition (2001 with 4.6L) just got $80 in gas at the store...I am one mile down the road, and the speedometer and tachometer, simultaneously go to full peg, twice. Engine did not stutter or miss a beat, nor did the RPMs go up. Then, it died. period. Almost as if a TPS failed...except after cooling down, the truck still won't hit. Fast turn over, 13.2 volts on battery, full premium fuel (which was already over a quarter full before fill-up). Good gas...clean filter on truck. Oh, yeah, and the "THEFT" dash icon is flashing fast. So...after $240 for the tow-bill home, I get the wife to try her key (thinking it is the chip dead in my key) and luck...still won't start.

    Any ideas of what else could have failed on this POS? I am now in the market for a late 1970's 4x4 that a pet chimp can troubleshoot...I have had it with this BS...where it takes a 1000 person committee to analyze why my vehicle turned off...or $1000 for a dealer to provide me with a $50 part. Thanks Ford...I am DONE.

    Ideas to help me get this junk rolling again (for purpose of sale) are greatly appreciated.
  • $1000 in coils? You can buy an 8 pack on ebay for $90.
  • Haven't seen decent coils for less than $57 a piece, and those are "Standard" brand...OEM are near $100 each.

    Right now...I don't need coils...I need to figure out how to reset this damn PATS so that "theft" quits flashing, and I can start the junker.

    The THEFT light is flashing a "61" code (thats a new one to me) and the PATS reset process (15 min key-on, then off, and repeat 3-times) didn't work...going to power-down next. Seems that no-one has encountered this failure while driving down the where neither key works, and the reset didn't either...guess I'll tear the column cover down and see if there is something with the transponder...

    Damn, I hate this truck for the technical issues. I hope Ford was in bed good with the insurance market...because I will never buy another Ford as long as I live, because of this PATS issue...there is no reason to make such fragile technical issues into vehicles, and then shaft your customer with $1000 service calls once a year. I'll just buy an old 1970's vehicle and dump money into least it will run then...squeaks and all.
  • Ok...update, the code that is UDP flashing is "16", and means 'failure of Transponder to communicate with the PCM, or SKF network error...or some crap like that. Every fragment i can find on this on the internet, says that the keys have lost code, or that the transponder (transceiver in key cylinder) is dead, or that the GEM is bad. Ok..great...except, if I disconnect the battery, turn the ignition to on, drain all circuits of power, wait a few minutes, then turn it all off and reconnect the battery - PATS "THEFT" light BS...and turn the key to it starting right up. Now, it will run...good...for 2-3 minutes, then it stutters, turns off, and THEFT flashes again.

    Anyone have any idea how complex it is to pull the PCM out of the dash? I am thinking that a blow dryer on it to dry it out, and it will be is snowy and humid outside, and this all started on a bad snowstorm, I am thinking that some in this post are kinda on the right track...that the PCM has been dampened by humidity or rain...and is acting squirreley...I just don't have the $1000 to play with the dealer on this truck right now!!!

  • shrek57shrek57 Posts: 1
    i hv a 99 expedition and i had the same problems u did. i went from thinking it was the fuel pump to the alternator to thinking it was the tow hitch cables. u name it i thought it messed up my car. after 4 mechanics that wanted to rip me off i found a guy that told me he would take the instrument cluster and resauter 7 cables that go connected to the cluster. he said he would charge me $160 and i figured nothing else had worked so what is $160 to fix my problem. 3 days later sure enough its been a year and knock on wood it hasnt had a problem. i live in miami so if u live near by i can give u his #.
  • tidestertidester Posts: 10,059
    i can give u his #

    Please don't post telephone numbers in the Forums.

    tidester, host
    SUVs and Smart Shopper
  • Hey...thanks for your post, because you confirmed what I found on only one other post, and that is that final absolute resolution to this whole problem isn't the PCM, EEC, or the Transceiver in the key/column, but in that damn short in the cluster. Ford had a tech bulletin out on it a year after the vehicle was made. had been snowing here for 3-days, right at 32-deg., 'snow-snot' all in the floorboard, snow fog all over, nasty weather...probably had 3-inches of snow up against the windshield by the air intake screen around the wipers...flat broke for the time, I pulled the battery and the PCM plug...hmmm...moisture. Ok...I pulled the PCM...and the inside of the cover seemed to be moist/damp. So, little low-temp blow-dryer, lot of WD-40 on the plug and the recepticle at the PCM...put it all back together, fire it right problem...then, 10-minutes later, it died. So, with no hesitation, I went to the store and bought 2-bottles of ISO-Heat (Isopropyl dryer for fuel) and put them in the tank...started it up...AGAIN...and kept foot to the pedal at 2,000-RPM for 10-minutes (it wouldn't die then)...and you could feel the engine begin to smooth out some...and it has worked perfectly since.

    By the way...the odometer on mine intermittently goes off and on while going down the road...DUE TO THE WIRE-SHORT in the instrument cluster that I am going to solder when weather warms up, now...should fix it all.

    FYI...THIS SHOULD BE THE FIRST DIAGNOSTIC DONE ON THIS SPECIFIC ISSUE...I hunted the internet for 3-days, saw a thousand posts IDENTICAL TO MINE, and no one ever printed a resolution...though it seems LOTS OF PCMs got sold as an attempted fix.

    Guys, I am telling you...try this first...this worked better than dropping a locker into a 9-inch rear, to get better traction!!!
  • Ok...I got it fixed, drove it...ran great. Then, drove it during a heavy rainstorm about 60-miles away from home, and it DIED! Cost $240 to have it towed back...sat for 4-days, disconnected the battery, reconnected the battery...and on a beautiful sunny day, took it for a drive...ran great! Ok...drove it around for a few days...ran WONDERFUL. Next time I needed to make the same 60-mile trip, again it was raining...same deal, but $280 tow bill this time!!!

    Got it home, dried it out, again...drove great about 3-days later...put maybe 500-miles on it...ran great...not one miss. Went out this morning, raining like a dog...started it. It ran for MAYBE 10-seconds, and DIED. Won't start, PATS is flashing again...and I am sure that when the rain stops, and all is dry, it will run PERFECT AGAIN.

    HELP SOMEONE!!! What is getting wet, or humid, that even sitting still in the driveway, just starting it causes this?!?!?!
  • I'm trying to help as many folks as I can. I thought it was the windshield that was leaking ... MAYBE! We had the windshield replaced the day after a hard rain (we had a "starburst that eventually lead to a long crack"); hubby tried to find any possible leaks ... but we didn't see anything wet, when the windshield was pulled off (the seals appeared dry :) ).

    Our windshield tech told us that the "groove" on the top of the truck (where the luggage rack is), is notorious for causing LEAKS. In other words, where the "luggage rack" is attached ... big hole ... it is HOLLOW right there.

    So we lucked out ... we were able to follow where the water was getting in and we sealed all the HOLES accordingly.

    Since a new windshield was installed, we had a "good seal" there (#1 culprit @ times).

    We took the luggage rack off and basically made a "gasket" before putting it back on! (when you take it off, you will see what I mean).

    We also sealed the hole(s) where the inside, assist handle is located. (the handle in the upper, left corner).

    Hopefully, this helps someone else. Not exactly SURE which method worked (I believe it was the LUGGAGE RACK HOLES), but we no longer have that problem when it rains anymore.

    (** note - we had the battery replaced and a new alternator, before figuring this out .... sheesh )
  • chammonschammons Posts: 1
    Ok so I have had this truck for almost three years now and the both front windows wont go up or down. I was just wondering if anyone else was having this problem? They say there is no recall on this but I just don't see how they could just go out with out there being some era on their part. :confuse:
  • kd4kmzkd4kmz Posts: 19
    Does your radio work or not when the windows don't work?
  • wroewroe Posts: 1
    did you find out what was the cause of your troubles. Every time I go to car wash it dont run right.
  • bknesalbknesal Posts: 1
    I know exactly what the problem is. You need to have your window taken out and resealed. There was a factory prob. that lets rain in. It drips to the ele. box and fries everything. When it dries the prob is gone. I did mine and I havent had a problem since. It happens in the 1998-2002 models.
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