Did you recently take on (or consider) a loan of 84 months or longer on a car purchase?
A reporter would like to speak with you about your experience; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 7/25 for details.
Options

Synthetic motor oil

1…1213151718…175

Comments

  • kb4utzkb4utz Member Posts: 6
    I just purchased a 2001 Honda Accord with the 2.3 4-cyl engine. The owner's manual recommends 5W-20 oil... it also says that 5W-30 may be used but should be changed back to 5W-20 at the next change (7,500 miles recommended between changes).

    Does anyone know who makes a 5W-20 product? I've used M1 in the past but they don't have a 5W-20 product. Any recommendations?
  • dan4365dan4365 Member Posts: 5
    I am thinking about installing an Amsoil By-Pass
    oil filter on my vehicles. Seems like it makes a lot of sense. Has any one out there had any experience with By-Pass oil filteration system?
    If so, please let me know your thoughts and experiences.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    I used to sell Amzoil and I wanted to install one. I couldn't, because of the amount of space required. Two issues to consider: space as I said and potential comromise of the integrity of the lube system. You are adding extra hoses, fittings and such. There is some risk. In my humble opinion stay with Mobil 1 or Amzoil, use a good filter (Pure One, Amzoil, Mobile 1, or Delco Ultraguard) As I've said before, there have been tests where 2 cars ran 200,000 miles with oil changes at 15,000 mi. and filters at I believe at 7,500 mi and almost no measurable wear on moving parts. The filters used in the test were not up to the standards of the latest generation ones. To me, possible paybacks are not worth the efffort or risk.

    Later
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    I saw the dino 5W-20 grade at Wallmart - the Motorcraft brand.
    Not aware of any synthetic of that grade.
  • wayn1wayn1 Member Posts: 69
    If you used to sell Amsoil, How come you don't know how to spell it??
    I would highly recommend it if you have the room. You can go for years without changing you oil along with an oil analysis
  • preludesi1preludesi1 Member Posts: 6
    Hello, I have a 1993 Honda prelude with 116,000 miles on it. I have been using regular oil so far. Will switching over to a synthetic oil have any bad affects to my engine considering the amount of miles I have on it. What brand of synthetic motor oil do you guys suggest?
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    Are you the first owner and have you been VERY faithful about changing the oil on a regular basis?
  • preludesi1preludesi1 Member Posts: 6
    No, I am the second owner of the vehicle. I bought the car from a dealership. I have owned it for only five months but have changed the oil every 3000 miles religously.
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    Well, you may get several different opinions on this, but personally I probably wouldn't switch to synthetic, just to be safe.

    If you drop the pan and it looks clean, and you remove the valve cover and it also looks clean (no sludge), you might consider switching. If you do switch, you might want to do so very slowly; make your own blends and incrementally increase the amount of synthetic. Change very frequently if the oil turns black quickly.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I think a lot of people have a block when it comes to the synthetic/conventional oil practicality. If we compare oil changes over say 100,000, then it is a matter of folks deciding what works for them. So, if you change oil every 3000 miles, you change it 33.33 times. If you change oil every 15,000 miles, you change it 6.67 times.

    (For me I have five vehicles, so pardon me if I opt for the increased oil change intervals)

    Another way to look at it is: how much per mile does it cost you to lubricate? (again, using my own data, it is: Conventional $.01 VS Synthetic $.003677)

    So "cheap insurance" as frequent oil changes are sometimes referred, COSTS 2.72 times per mile more than synthetic. Not to mention having to go change it 4.997 times more often. In a business sense that is NOT cheap insurance but 2.72 times higher operating costs.
  • dudleyrdudleyr Member Posts: 3,469
    Why would you advise against switching to synthetic?
  • bblahabblaha Member Posts: 329
    Because the detergents in the synthetic can clean away gummy deposits and discover openings in the seals. It doesn't cause the leaks, but it can scrub away the deposits that are acting like a bandaid; net result - oil leaks.

    Since he can't verify how well the vehicle was maintained for the first 100,000 miles, he should assume the worse and expect there might be a leak somewhere.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    On the Mobil 1 web site they do state that some seepage may occur with synthetics and based upon my experience with about 6 cars over nine years here is what happened. On new cars the seepage will occur after about 90,000 miles and usually a re-torque of the bolts does the trick on the valve cover and oil pans. Not had a seal leak as yet. On cars that were purchased used and I switched the seepage occurs about a year later, usually the oil pan and valve cover. Re-torque does not always work and the gasket may need replacing. Amsoil swears that their synthetics does not increase seepage but for the reasons posted above they say seepage may occur. I agree, it will occur on a used car switched to synthetics after about a year when the gunk from the dino oil is cleaned away. It may or may not stop later!!!! Hard to know if anything would have happened with continued dino usage.
  • preludesi1preludesi1 Member Posts: 6
    If a car already has a leak in it's oil pan and maybe one on the rear main seal and the owner is about to replace these items would it still matter if they switched to synthetic?
  • eharri3eharri3 Member Posts: 640
    Don't think I could go 10k between changes the way some on this board do, synthetic or not. Manufacturer says 5k, I do it every 5k on the dot, either myself or at the dealer. I just did it last week on my Ranger and there were very small amounts of metal shavings in the oil. Couldn't imagine what that oil would look like after twice as long.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    If you are concerned with shavings, you really should drop the oil pan. Chances are you were lucky in seeing the shavings that you did. If you did see shavings, chances are the oil chnage did not remove all of them. The bottom line is you MAY have more problems that an oil change can solve.

    Incidently the oil analysis does analysize metal wear and shavings suspended in the oil, indicating potential and actual wear problems. It is good to finally see this technology available to consumers.
  • div2div2 Member Posts: 2,580
    I agree completely. If there are visible metal shavings in the oil, I suspect that motor will be scrap in a few more miles.
  • srivnavasrivnava Member Posts: 13
    I will be picking up my new 2001 Sienna from the dealer next week. I would like to use Synthetic oil instead of the normal ones. Here are couple of questions that I have.

    (1.) What synthetic oil to use - 5W30 ??
    (2.) Should I drain out the oil that comes from the factory and use the Synthetic oil before driving off from the dealership ?
    (3.) If not, should I wait until I break in the engine (1000 miles) before changing to the synthetic oil ?
    (4.) Someone suggested that I completely flush out the existing oil before adding the synthetic oil. Is this a special procedure or just a normal oil change ?

    Appreciate any feedback.
  • ruking1ruking1 Member Posts: 19,826
    I would just run the OE oil fill for the breakin period 500-1000 miles.

    Then after that, use the weight that is specified for the Sienna (I believe it is 5-30W, RTFM for the proper specifications. AND just a normal oil change using synthetic instead)
  • turbotcturbotc Member Posts: 163
    i would run the toyota oil for 1000 miles or so and they change to 5w-30 mobil 1. i would use a premium filter as well. Mobil 1 makes one for your van. it is $10.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Drive 500-1000 miles and switch. No flush needed, new clean engine. Use a Mobil 1, Amsoil or Pure One filter (yes, better then the OEM) and use Mobil 1, Amsoil or RedLine synthetic oil for the weight indicated in your owner's manual. This is my practice and have done so on multiple cars. No break in needed, no flush, just switch.
  • oilcan2oilcan2 Member Posts: 120
    I'm hooked on the amsoil 0w30 series 2000.This
    would give the vehicle the best protection.
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    I just can't get around without the RedLine 10W-30.
    The best protection for the engine the mankind ever invented. image
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    If it's good enough for factory fills for 'vettes, Vipers, Porshe, Mercedes, it's good enough for me.
  • 1846618466 Member Posts: 46
    I have a 2000 Sienna LE that I use Mobil 1 in. I have had good results using the 5w-30 and changing about every 7000 miles. First change at about 4000 miles. Now I drive mostly highway, If you do a lot of stop and go driving on short trips I would recomend changing the Mobil 1 about every 5000 miles or sooner. This engine is very clean inside at 20,000 miles. I just cut open the last filter (Toyota) I removed from the Sienna and it was amazing how clean the inside of the filter was. Do Not Use a Flush! The synthetic oil has excellent detergents in it and it will keep your engine very clean.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    the syn stays cleaner longer is because it does not oxidize/breakdown like conventional oils.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    My only problem with RedLine is that it is way way overpriced and more difficult to get even more so then Amsoil. I can get Amsoil for $4.35/quart, RedLine is in the $6 or $7 range. I consider them equals along with Mobil 1. Plus, Amsoil filters are great as well and Redline is not into that market. RedLine does seem to make a great gear oil in their MT90 for manual trannies that helps smooth out the shifting which I use.
  • tacomawheelstacomawheels Member Posts: 6
    I just got a 2001 Pathfinder. The dealer is offering lifetime oil changes for $300. Seems like a good deal. He said they use the factory spec which is Penzoil. They do use the synthetic. He also said I can bring my own filter, which I will instead of the Nissan junk. Is the Penzoil stuff any good? I was planning on Mobil 1.
  • armtdmarmtdm Member Posts: 2,057
    Sounds like a great deal. However, what is their definition of the change interval. Do they say lifetime changes every 7,500 miles? This is way too high using dino so in reality there is no great deal. However, if they will change it every 3,000-5,000 for life a great deal. Also depends on how long you will keep it, 1 year not worth it, 3 yes. If a leased car etc. not worth it. I have never heard of lifetime changes, 3 year the most I have seen but then they will do it only at the recommended maxium period noted in the manual. If you say yes get it in writing and get it very explicit as to intervals and products to be used. Their Pennzoil deal is the local dealer, guarantee Nissan has not made any deal with Pennzoil! Also, find out the weight they will use and assure that it is what is in the manual, sometimes they will use a different as they get a better deal on it in bulk
  • mrrocmrroc Member Posts: 3
    I was advised by a mechanic that you should not use synthetic oil until your vehicle has reached 7,000 miles. change your oil at 1K and continue to use regular oil during the break-in period 3k or 2 oil changes afterwards. If you choose to use synthetic oil before 7k you may find yourself with oil leaks for the life of your car.
  • spectre3spectre3 Member Posts: 67
    bologna!!!
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    We've heard from all of these "mechanics" before.
  • turbotcturbotc Member Posts: 163
    Geez, I guess these people who spent $50k + on their new Corvettes, Porsches, AMG Mercedes, etc.... will have oil leaks for the life of their cars since all these cars come from the factory filled with Mobil 1. Maybe when I buy my Corvette, I will drain out the synthetic and refill with dino oil before driving out of the lot.
  • oilcan2oilcan2 Member Posts: 120
    Have been using amsoil products for about 20 yrs.
    Most mechanics know little about syn. oil.
    How many of us posters are auto mechanics?
    If the mechanic is knowledgable about syn. oil
    it would behoove him not to recommend it in the
    long run because your motor would last longer,
    this would not hold true for all mechanics but
    some may think that way.
  • pcalvinpcalvin Member Posts: 44
    I am a big fan of Mobil oil, and I am wondering if there will be a large difference if I start using Mobil 1 instead of normal Oil in my new '01 Car. I have always done the standard 3000 mile oil change with normal oil on my other cars even if they say 5-7k. None of them have been new, and I've heard you shouldn't switch between synthetic and normal oil in a used car(this could be false info i'm not an expert by any means!). Now that I have a new one I just wanted some info on how much synthetic oil will help my engine and/or if I should only do the 7.5k oil changes not classic 3-4k It's the 2.0 modified 626 mazda engine, new for the 01 ES Proteges. Thanx
    One more note-Do the expensive oil filters actually help that much if you change the oil and filter every 3-5k? If I'm going to pay double or tripple the price, will it be worth it? I live in San Diego, and do a 50/50 mix of highway/stop-go driving.
  • nikecarnikecar Member Posts: 460
    Well you are in the same boat as I am. I hae a 00 Protege ES and the interval (shortest is 5K). Its got 1.5K now and I am going to change it with dino within the next 2 weeks and again at 5K, then switch to Mobil1 and keep the 5 or 7.5K.

    but by all means switch my man... don't keep the dinosaurs alive in your car!!!
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    on documented tests of 4 identical GM cars, each ran 200,000 miles. 2 had oil changed every 15,000 miles and the other 2 7,500 miles. The teadown revealed that all parts came up to specs for new parts. How's that? In my opinion good filters are worth the extra bucks as their single and multi-pass efficiencies are better. (they trap more smaller particles). In my opinion you are throwing money away changing Mobil 1 at 3,000 miles. I use the unscientific method of when it starts going from dark honey to black it's time to change.
  • bluebeastbluebeast Member Posts: 258
    Check it out: http://members.nbci.com/minimopar/oilfilterstudy.html
  • brucer2brucer2 Member Posts: 157
    I'd just leave the original iol in for the first 1000 miles, and then switch to synthetic. 5k change interval is probably very conservative. You really can't tell when to change oil based on color. I just switched to synthetic at 45k, and the oil rather quickly began to cahnge color. I've read that this is typical after changing, and will get dark, pretty fast for the first couple of changes.
    One of the very good oil filters is the Purolator Pure One, and they only cost $6-7.
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    Allow at least 3,000 miles on the factory oil.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    nm
  • vadpvadp Member Posts: 1,025
    Scroll down to "Can I put Royal Purple into my brand new car?"


    http://www.synerlec.com/faq.html

  • pirat5pirat5 Member Posts: 20
    Hi everybody!
    Accidently I've run into your discussion group. It's great, we can exchange our observations and experiences. I have two vehicles. One is Passat'99 1.8, the other Dakota'00 4.7. Both have roughly 20K miles. Passat had free maintenance @ every 5K, what an abuse with Kendal oil or what his name. Dodge I maintain myself. Regular Castrol 5W-30 every 3K. Does it make sense to switch to synthec. Passat has 100K warranty on the power train and already has been abused. Dodge has low rpm. high torque engine which never runs above 3000 rpm. I always thought that frequent oil change @ 3K is better than synthec. @ 10K. If you want to change synthec. @ every 3K. it's gonna cost a fortune (3 times the cost of regular oil). How much longer the engine is going to be in top shape if on regular oil it's pretty good even up to 150K. The other thing. Do we want to keep our cars and trucks for 10 years. Why nobody mentions Castrol, isn't it a good product? Please help me do a right choice. Has anybody noticed any improvement in gas economy after switching for synthec. Is it true you shouldn't go back to regular oil once you pure in synthec. Thank you all for attention.
  • adc100adc100 Member Posts: 1,521
    My milage has gone up 3-5% when switching to Mobil-1. I change every 10,000 miles with a filter every 5,000. If you do the math the cost would be about the same as changing every 3,000 with conventional oil. There's no point trying to convince people to use it (syn). I want the best for my car, regardless how long I have it. I also want to change oil less often. It works for me.

    Later
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    The longer oil change interval pays in owner time, not the cost of oil.

    Let us consider very conservative 6 month / 6,000 mile synthetic oil change schedule, and Pep Boys prices:

    5 quarts of Mobil-1 @$4.50, plus quality filter - Pure One, @$6, total about $30 every 6 month.

    5 quarts of brand-name usual oil, @$1.30, plus stock filter @$3, total about $10 every 3 months.

    So, it cost $20 more per year, for couple of hours of owner's time. And, as a bonus, better engine protection, especially in winter.
  • jed1894jed1894 Member Posts: 337
    I use Mobil 1 10w30. The temp never goes below about 15 deg where I live...so I use 10w30. However, I may be traveling to a location where the temp. falls below 15 and possibly will drop to around 0 deg. My question is 2 parts......

    1. Will switching to 5w30 affect my motor since I've been using 10w30?

    2. Is there a need to switch to 5w30 based on what I said above?

    Another issue I'm concerned about is that I switched to Mobil 1 at 26k miles. I haven't had any leaks thus far, but I'm concerned that 5w30 may be thinner? What y'll think?

    John
  • oilcan2oilcan2 Member Posts: 120
    I use the amsoil 0w30 series 2000 oil and I live
    in south Texas.In answer to your question the
    5w30 will not leak out,you will probably notice a
    easier start in cold weather.
    I heard that mobil one had a 0w30 oil out,has
    anyone seen it?
  • yurakmyurakm Member Posts: 1,345
    The Mobil-1 0w-30 is available at my local Pep Boys. Town of Hamden, CT.

    Very often the Mobil-1 10w-30 is sold-out, or 5w-30, and sometimes both, but 0w-30 always is on the shelf. Probably, the demand is low with the New England climate.

    By the way, I am not sure at all if the 0w-30 will be good for my 3800 General Motors engine. The 10w-30 is recommended by GM, except for cold winter.
    The car is new, 4,500 miles, changed oil only once, at 2k. I am planing to replace the dyno oil by Mobil-1 after about 10k miles. 10w-30, not 0w-30. I am afraid the low viscosity oil could leak into chamber through rings, if the car will sit long enough at parking lot.
  • inkyinky Member Posts: 370
    I Consider 0w30 for my 01 Seinna but it would be thin?, I may just use recommended 5w30 for Oklahoma. Any thoughts.
    INKY
  • oilcan2oilcan2 Member Posts: 120
    I've been using the 0w30 for about 5 yrs. in a
    merc. wagon with a 302 with 235,000 miles,no
    problem,also use it in a 94 lexus.Am not sure
    what above poster means the oil could leak thru
    rings into chamber when car sits,the oil is in sump and would have to somehow flo up to ring area.I have a friend in Chicago who has a
    motorhome with a ford 460,it would overheat in
    traffic,he switched to the 0w30 and never had the
    problem again.
Sign In or Register to comment.

Helpful Tools

Most popular vehicles