It has to exceed the SL anti sludge requirements by 120 hours instead of 80. If you are using a good syn then you might be OK. But don't even consider a 5W-30 on a new engine. It isn't as tough an oil since it only has to meet the regular SL standards.
I would recommend talking to Mobil or Valvoline for further informationn on this issue.
Don't even consider anything less than SL grade. I might even consider adding Molly if I had one.
According to Mobil, Supersyn has "A pour point that is 10-20° C lower than conventional PAOs of the same viscosity grade."
So if the only change is adding Supersyn, then the pout point should be LOWER, not HIGHER.
Supersyn has a lower pour than regular PAO. OK. Since the pour point increased with the (super low pour) Supersyn, what is the conclusion that can be drawn? Is that clear enough?
We have all been looking at the physical properties of these oils. I know the only oils considered as "energy conserving" are the xw/30 oils (and the thinner 5w/20 too I suppose). What is the componant that is the friction reducer in these oils? Anybody know why they don't put it in any heavier oils? Anybody remember "Winn's friction prufe????" at least I think that is what it was called..I have not been able to find any "coefficient of friction" or "fanning friction factor" for engine oils,,,,anybody on here found that? The friction proofing should be a major consideration because it is a major reason for using the thinner oils....GAS MILEAGE, but I can't find those numbers. Seems like it would be a major comparative value.
Is dark oil dirty?is dirty oil bad?Is dark oil bad?
Is Chevron SL a synthetic?If Chevron SL is a synth,then what about the question:"If the price were the same,would you use dino or syn?"Does it become: at 1/4 the price,would you use "syn" over syn?
In today's SL world,what oils ARE synths?Chevron says in their FAQ,that their SL oil is synthetic!How close is it to other synths in real-world use?
1976 -- 1990 Conventional multigrades v. PAO or esther synthetics.
1990-- 2001 Conventional Multigrades vs. PAO vs "hydrocracked synthetics"
2002 conventional multigrades with hydrocracked synthetics vs pure hydrocracked "high mileage" oils vs. Conventional/syn blends of any variety vs syn base with lots of conventional vs syn base with lots of hydrocracked, vs higher quality hydrocracked oils vs Esther synthetics vs PAO synthetics.
Question to Mobil I have used Mobil 1 for 10 years now in my vehicles and four extended family vehicles. Many people now think that the higher pour point of Mobil 1 indicates that Mobil is addopting the tactics of Castrol and using some "Severely Hydroprocessed" stocks in with the Base stocks of Mobil 1? What say you??
Answer: Mobil 1 Supersyn is still a PAO based oil just like the Tri-Synthetic Formula so it is a fully synthetic motor oil.
I finally went in and asked my local Ford service manager about using an oil other than 5W20 in my Escape. I decided that it was only fair to get his opinion to balance all the ones I've read about on sites like this one. His answer was interesting. Yes, it was okay to use something other than 5w20. No, it wouldn't void the warranty. Still, they recommend the 20 weight because of tight engine tolerances and the ability of light oil to lubricate better under those tolerances.
I'm no engineer, but I think he meant clearances, not tolerances. I'm pretty sure tolerances refer to design specifications. Clearances to actual part measurements. Nonetheless, I was struck by how easily he backed off using 5W20 oil. He acknowledged it is only "recommended" in the owners manual, not required. I realize his is only one dealer rep's opinion, and he does not speak for Ford, but I'm really warming up to using a good full synthetic oil at the next oil change instead of Ford's blended 5W20. I'll track actual mileage until then and see if it really does change with a slightly heavier syn oil. My only reservation...Ford's 5W20 oil is high in moly.
Mrdetailer...in #3802, did you mean to say that SL specs for 5w20 oil carry higher sludge requirements than SL specs for other weights? Thats how I took it. I assumed all SL oils met the same specs, but don't really know for sure. Thanks.
"The Chevron SL supporters seem to have vanished from this topic.I wonder why?"
I'm not sure about the reason for this jab,but I'm a Chevron SL user and I'm still here.I doubt that you have convinced everyone(anyone for that matter) that they must agree with you and use a synthetic,ANY synthetic.
I have a 2001 Honda Accord v-6 that also calls for the 5W-20. However, the year before that, the EXACT same engine called for 5W-30. I seriously doubt they changed ANYTHING in the engines between 2000 and 2001, since it was not a major redesign. I also believe that the switch to 5W-20 is just to get the CAFE credits for the very small increase in gas mileage that the thinner oil gives. There are a lot of people who have a say in what goes into a car after it is designed, and I bet the switch to 5W-20 was a financial decision from someone other than the engineers. It may protect as well, but it may not, I don't really know but I feel better using a 30 weight.
The owner's manual says it is ok to use 5W-30, but 5W-20 should be used at the next oil change. No reason why, it just says it should be used. Well, I have been using Amsoil 0W-30. I don't really need the 0W here in Kansas but I have been convinced that the Amsoil series 2000 is good stuff so I don't really mind paying the extra money. I also feel much better about leaving the oil in past 3000 miles (I have been changing it at about 6000, owners manual says 3750/7500 for severe/normal use), although I will never use Amsoil's 25000 mile interval.
I am definately not worried about not using the 5W-20, since my dealer didn't even have it when I went in for my first oil change (before I switched to Amsoil). They were the first to tell me about Honda's reasons for the switch, and then I have read it numerous times on this board and others. I am worried about Amsoil not being API certified, but that is a different story!
If all who wonder "What qualifies as synthetic?" would just read #11 on that site, a lot of this malarky could be brought to an end. But then, what would certain people do to entertain themselves after that?
It is hard to impossible to know, what changed from one year to the next with the modern cars. It can be just a couple of bytes in EPROM chip...
My 2000 Regal manual recommends changing oil as requred by oil monitor, between 3,000 and 7,500 miles depending on driving pattern. With our car, every time around 6,000 miles. I heard that in the mileage between oil changes increased substantially for 2001-2002 models. The same car, the same engine. Different software?
I use the 0W30 also. In Kansas in winter I would say the 0W is a good bet. However, I go one year with a filter at 6 months but car only gets 7-9000 miles/year on it. Oil analysis on the 0W has been fine past two years but basically the same results with the 10W30 I was using before. Personally, I don't think the series 2000 is worth the $2/quart more as it gives me the same wear results as the regular synthetic. You are changing too often every 6000 miles but it does depend on driving conditions and what makes you feel comfortable.
As to the regal, I use the Amsoil 10W30 in my 2000 GSE SC and change filter at 6000 miles and oil at 12,000 miles. I simply reset the indicator at 6000 when I change the filter. Light has yet to come on indicting a change should be sooner for me. Oil analysis has been fine so far. Changed to synthetic at 4300 now have about 25,000 miles. However, a good portion of highway miles.
That entire FAQ is very enlightening,especially #11.For me,it's the first concise,valid explanation of what many of us inferred about Chevron SL oil:that it blurs the dino/synth argument and gives me NO reason to spend more than $1.08 for a modern,state-of-the-art oil.
I'd like to see someone use an extended interval with this oil and do an analysis!
Yura - I never really thought about the easier software changes they could do on the car, I was just referring to the actual engine design. I don't know much about how the computer works.
Arm - I have been thinking about doing an oil analysis when I am about to change this next time. Everyone on here seems to be talking about Blackstone? Is that the way to go? Of course, I would probably be relying on some of you here to help me interperate the results!
Those FAQ's are nothing more than your standard marketing answers given by Chevron. Let's see some lab testing, or better yet, real world testing, then if it can hold up as well as the syns, I'll believe the claims.
You can go to mobil1.com and get some information. There are posts above which discuss the issues. Mostly the posts (including mine) are based on possible truths, half-truths or no truths. To the best of my knowledge, the new Supersyn is their latest generation oil. They have a new ingredient (Supersyn) which is touted as enhancing the wear protection of Mobil. It supposedly was added because it reduced wear in their racing oils. There are those who feel that the latest generation of Mobil 1 has sacrificed quality for profits. According to Mobil the formula which previously consisted of 3 synthetic oils + the additive package has not been downgraded and the further addition of the Supersyn has enhanced the formula.
I am inclined to buy this explanation for now. The Trisyn Formula was, according to some, to be a downgrade, but I posted awhile back that the results of wear testing showed the Trisyn Formula to be better than the previous generation. No reason to suspect different here.
The formula was changed because the old SJ Mobil One formula could not meet or surpass the new stricter SL standard.
The only thing that is cloudy in my mind is the issue of whether the Zinc formula or % is lower, higher, same or reformulated. The verbiage seems to hint that long life is a primary concern.
(the zinc in the formulas is the issue with longer/shorter cat life)
My overall take is that at worst it is no better than the SJ rating, which is very good and incidently the specs for my vehicles call for SJ. At best the new SL will let me extend the drain interval to 15k and beyond!!
Knapp 3 asked. Mrdetailer...in #3802, did you mean to say that SL specs for 5w20 oil carry higher sludge requirements than SL specs for other weights? Thats how I took it. I assumed all SL oils met the same specs, but don't really know for sure. Thanks.
The answer is NO the SL standard for oils is still 80 hours with no more than 50% thickening. It is a Ford or Honda Standard that requires 120 hours with the 50% thickening. Thickening is indicative of oxydation as well as sludge.
This is not unusual. Look at a bottle of valvoline 10W-40 SL, It will list Volkswagon, BMW, Corvette and Mercedes oil specifications in addition to a european one that is in excess of the SL standard.
I just put Chevron SL 10-30 in my 2000 Accord 4 cylinder. I was planning on having an oil analysis done when I next changed the oil and would be willing to go 6K and get an analysis. If it comes back ok I will go for 7.5K on the next one. I am using the WalMart (Champion) filters that I paid 1.97 each. Will that satisfy everyone as an extended drain to start with?
Oh GEE! 7500 miles is the normal recommended range between oil changes for your vehicle, in the owners manual!!? (it is for mine and that interval was recommended with that old junk SJ standard!) Now 6000 miles on the SL rated conventional oil is really living on the wild side!
(Being as how the new interval for SL rated conventional oil is actually 12,000 miles and you guys think me a wild child for a 15,000 miles oil change interval with synthetic, SJ rated! )
I have NEVER said Chevron SL is as good as "Brand whatever" synthetic.I HAVE regularly said that the SL oils seem to be a big improvement over SJ dinos due to their much improved performance regarding flash point,pour point,etc,etc,etc as mandated by the SL standard.
I'm sorry that it offends you "true synthetic" users that I could even compare Chevron SL to Mobil-1 or Walmart "synthetic".I (and many others) think that the gap has closed so much,that it is nuts to waste the money on the above oils.(remember,I have never said that "synthetics are obviously superior to dinos as bottgers has done -OR vice versa).No blanket statements like that from me.Nor will I admit that Chevron SL is inferior to Mobil-1---I don't know and I dare say that you don't either.
AFA oil testing,I think of it as a waste of $$,even though I'm curious as to the results.If I were paying $4.45 a qt for oil,I might consider analysis(but only trend analysis makes good sense to me ).And my opinion is still that Chevron SL,changed at reasonable intervals(4,000 odd miles) is probably overkill.
There's no need to be so sarcastic. 7500 miles may be the recommended change interval on tntitan's Accord (I'm not sure), but 6000 miles on conventional-priced oil is more than most people who care about their cars usually go on conventional oil.
To me, 6000 miles IS an extended drain interval for conventional oil.
Granted, many people are going that long, or longer. Those people think they are fine but they probably don't realize that their oil might be wearing out with that many miles on it.
Good question. I would assume the addive package results will be the same, but am not sure about the other stuff. I would assume that the irons would drop after changing and thus you might have a misleading history on how the oil performed. I sampled before removing the filter. Stuck another one on ($10 K&N). Needless to say I hope the results are OK. But they would have to be pretty bad for me to dump the oil. Based on what I have seen on some oil analysis of Mobil 1 the additive package seems to hold up.
Perhaps someone has some good information here. I'm sure armtdm probaboy can answer this.
#3822 Or then again it may not!! Look I am not the one who has the doubt! So while you may agree that oil analysis is a waste of money, it is the very thing that could possibly keep you from continually wasting it! But it will always be a "doubt" unless you "test" it. The bottom line is I have no problem at all with you using Chevron SL conventional oil. In fact, thank you very much!! The stock is doing wonderfully for me! Shoot I should stand here and tell you to change it every 1500 miles!
If it's your regular practice to go 3K and do a filter change do it. But let us know. I follow your pattern on synthetic. 3K filter change, change oil at 6K. Would definitely like to see if you can go longer on that hydrocracked oil. Who knows if it's that good I may abandon my syn blend on my oldest vehicle.
This topic is now the most popular topic in terms of posts in the Maintenance & Repair Area. Guess this proves that syn oil is more popular than(gulp) Z A I N OOOOO!!! As far as abandoning syn oil on my 94 Toyota like mrdetailer is thinking. It makes economic sense (its a '94 4WD). I just can't bring myself to use dino. And also it gets only about 5K per year. Thats one oil change per year.
Well, after reading the links on posts 3811 & 3814 and reading the opinion of a few of you, I am going to try running Chevron Supreme 10W-30 in the summer and 5W-30 in the winter in my 02 Explorer 4.0L 6cyl. After all, it has impressive numbers and it conforms to Fords specs, which as I understand it are tougher than the normal SL specs. Plus it’s cheaper (I paid $1.19) and I don't extend my change interval. I used Schaffers Moly in my last change, but I'm just coming up on 2800 miles on this change (16,800 miles overall) so I haven't reported on it yet. (Slight increase on mileage, but nothing to write home about.) Chevron Supreme is hard to find in metro-Detroit, but some WalMarts carry a small stock of it.
I do want to say that although some posts seem to be pretty contentious, we live in a great country where choice and right-of-opinion are so highly coveted that these boards are able to exist and thrive. Without that, we would only have one or two brands with which to debate
"Those FAQ's are nothing more than your standard marketing answers given by Chevron. Let's see some lab testing, or better yet, real world testing, then if it can hold up as well as the syns, I'll believe the claims."
Who are you kidding? You won't believe it under any circumstance! >:o[ LOL
6000 miles is not a stretch at all for a synthetic. I just put mobil1 in my new QX4 and will take it to 7500 without even testing it. I have thought about taking it to 10,000 to test it. Unless you are going to try 10, 12 or even 15,000 miles, why even bother testing. I think its a waste of money unless you are going to push it to a level that might have a chance of taxing the oil.
Wouldn't a drain interval of 7500 miles, being half the synthetic interval of 15k so popular here, be significant in that your getting a measurement of cost(one of the syn users arguments for it's use). If the Chevron SL holds up at 7500 miles, half the syn's life at 1/4 the cost does it not demonstrate something? . Does it mean that the synthetic would have to be drained every 30k to justify the added cost? Just asking.
with a different oil filter midway through the course. But I can tell you if I am crawling under the car to take off the filter, that oil is coming out as well, synthetic or no synthetic!
I like changing the oil in our vehicles, but I hate just changing the filter! It takes me almost as much time to change the filter as it does to change both oil AND filter. Still, I've been changing the filter at 3,000 miles on our 98 Trooper and changing oil (Mobil 1 5W30) with another filter change at 6,000 miles. That will change when I go back to conventional oil.
Yes synthetic is app 3x longer lasting than conventional oil, so yes 22,500 to be exact. But ultimately it is easy to get a true picture by getting a cost per mile for lubrication.
Or let me approach it another way. If the useful life of SL conventional is 12,000 miles and you change it at 3000,4000,5000,6000 miles what is the range of % waste on the useful life remaining? And the conventional oil advocates say this is cheap? or cheap insurance?
Really quite humorous seeing people debate the advantages/disadvantages of "extended" drains. Bottom line: people will do whatever they are comforable with no matter the evidence to the contrary (myself included). The question that keeps going through my mind when people state that 3K oil changes is the STANDARD and to go beyond that is blasphemy is this: Where did they learn about that "standard". Most likely it was based on advice passed down by their parents, etc., which was based on the auto and oil industry's recommendations. But guess what? Both the auto and oil industries are now recommending oil changes beyond the traditional 3K. Only the oil changing shops are still advocating 3K changes. Question is, do you trust the motives of the auto and oil industries? Well, you trusted it before when they said 3K changes...why not now? Because we want evidence beyond a doubt, and then some, that it won't harm our engines! Well, there will never be any studies to satisfy that criteria for everyone. Me, I use Mobil 1, and change at 6 months with my severe driving cuz that's a "reasonable" balance between following the manual's recommendations and having a little faith in the expensive oil I paid for. Is it overkill? Probably, but that's all right cuz I'd rather spend a little more than have to deal with the hassle of a sludged engine later down the road. For those interested in protecting the environment and/or getting the most for their money/time, I think the only way to determine the safest interval for extended drains is to do serial oil analysis. No two engines are the same, and no two drivers drive under the same conditions, so no matter the published studies, your engine and your driving habits may be different - for better or worse.
"Bottom line: people will do whatever they are comforable with no matter the evidence to the contrary (myself included)."
Very good point. This board is pretty civil, but we could lessen the argumentative aspect significantly if all of us acknowledged the validity of your theory.
For me, the "evidence" shows it is quite likely that Mobil 1 is safe to be used well beyond 6,000 miles. However, that is the top end of my comfort zone and I'm not willing to leave the oil in my vehicles any longer than that.
post? Now you are saying that conventional dino has a 12k mile useful life? That would make it half the life of a synthetic at 1/4 the cost. No way around it! I don't care how it's approached. Again, I wouldn't feel comfortable with a significantly extended drain (I feel the conditions in which I drive are too severe). But if someone like tntitan is willing to put that Chevron SL to this test, I think we should wait for the results before we poo-poo his parameters. He is willing to step gradually towards an extended drain comparable to what synthetics users propose, using a much lower costing oil.
Comments
I would recommend talking to Mobil or Valvoline for further informationn on this issue.
Don't even consider anything less than SL grade. I might even consider adding Molly if I had one.
I am confused. Are you saying the SL standards are different for a 5W-20 oil, than for an 5W-30 ??
(excepting viscosity range of course!)
So if the only change is adding Supersyn, then the pout point should be LOWER, not HIGHER.
Supersyn has a lower pour than regular PAO. OK. Since the pour point increased with the (super low pour) Supersyn, what is the conclusion that can be drawn? Is that clear enough?
Read it all at
http://www.exxonmobilchemical.com/chemical/customer/products/families/synthetics/basefluids/paos.html
Bo
The friction proofing should be a major consideration because it is a major reason for using the thinner oils....GAS MILEAGE, but I can't find those numbers. Seems like it would be a major comparative value.
Is Chevron SL a synthetic?If Chevron SL is a synth,then what about the question:"If the price were the same,would you use dino or syn?"Does it become: at 1/4 the price,would you use "syn" over syn?
In today's SL world,what oils ARE synths?Chevron says in their FAQ,that their SL oil is synthetic!How close is it to other synths in real-world use?
Seems we have MORE questions than before SL.....
1976 -- 1990 Conventional multigrades v. PAO or esther synthetics.
1990-- 2001 Conventional Multigrades vs. PAO vs "hydrocracked synthetics"
2002 conventional multigrades with hydrocracked synthetics vs pure hydrocracked "high mileage" oils vs. Conventional/syn blends of any variety vs syn base with lots of conventional vs syn base with lots of hydrocracked, vs higher quality hydrocracked oils vs Esther synthetics vs PAO synthetics.
the picture muddies.
Question to Mobil
I have used Mobil 1 for 10 years now in my vehicles and four extended family vehicles. Many people now think that the higher pour point of Mobil 1 indicates that Mobil is addopting the tactics of Castrol and using some "Severely Hydroprocessed" stocks in with the Base stocks of Mobil 1?
What say you??
Answer:
Mobil 1 Supersyn is still a PAO based oil just like the Tri-Synthetic Formula so it is a fully synthetic motor oil.
"In order to satisfy both viscosity and volatility requirements(SL) for SAE 5W-30, a new Group II+ base oil was used to formulate this product."
Easy! It's because they can't get a word in edge wise! >;oÞ
I'm no engineer, but I think he meant clearances, not tolerances. I'm pretty sure tolerances refer to design specifications. Clearances to actual part measurements. Nonetheless, I was struck by how easily he backed off using 5W20 oil. He acknowledged it is only "recommended" in the owners manual, not required. I realize his is only one dealer rep's opinion, and he does not speak for Ford, but I'm really warming up to using a good full synthetic oil at the next oil change instead of Ford's blended 5W20. I'll track actual mileage until then and see if it really does change with a slightly heavier syn oil. My only reservation...Ford's 5W20 oil is high in moly.
Mrdetailer...in #3802, did you mean to say that SL specs for 5w20 oil carry higher sludge requirements than SL specs for other weights? Thats how I took it. I assumed all SL oils met the same specs, but don't really know for sure. Thanks.
I'm not sure about the reason for this jab,but I'm a Chevron SL user and I'm still here.I doubt that you have convinced everyone(anyone for that matter) that they must agree with you and use a synthetic,ANY synthetic.
If you read this FAQ carefully,maybe you will understand why this SL oil has so many proponents on this board: http://www.chevron.com/prodserv/baseoils/faq_answers.shtml
The owner's manual says it is ok to use 5W-30, but 5W-20 should be used at the next oil change. No reason why, it just says it should be used. Well, I have been using Amsoil 0W-30. I don't really need the 0W here in Kansas but I have been convinced that the Amsoil series 2000 is good stuff so I don't really mind paying the extra money. I also feel much better about leaving the oil in past 3000 miles (I have been changing it at about 6000, owners manual says 3750/7500 for severe/normal use), although I will never use Amsoil's 25000 mile interval.
I am definately not worried about not using the 5W-20, since my dealer didn't even have it when I went in for my first oil change (before I switched to Amsoil). They were the first to tell me about Honda's reasons for the switch, and then I have read it numerous times on this board and others. I am worried about Amsoil not being API certified, but that is a different story!
My 2000 Regal manual recommends changing oil as requred by oil monitor, between 3,000 and 7,500 miles depending on driving pattern. With our car, every time around 6,000 miles. I heard that in the mileage between oil changes increased substantially for 2001-2002 models. The same car, the same engine. Different software?
As to the regal, I use the Amsoil 10W30 in my 2000 GSE SC and change filter at 6000 miles and oil at 12,000 miles. I simply reset the indicator at 6000 when I change the filter. Light has yet to come on indicting a change should be sooner for me. Oil analysis has been fine so far. Changed to synthetic at 4300 now have about 25,000 miles. However, a good portion of highway miles.
I'd like to see someone use an extended interval with this oil and do an analysis!
Thanks
Arm - I have been thinking about doing an oil analysis when I am about to change this next time. Everyone on here seems to be talking about Blackstone? Is that the way to go? Of course, I would probably be relying on some of you here to help me interperate the results!
I am inclined to buy this explanation for now. The Trisyn Formula was, according to some, to be a downgrade, but I posted awhile back that the results of wear testing showed the Trisyn Formula to be better than the previous generation. No reason to suspect different here.
The formula was changed because the old SJ Mobil One formula could not meet or surpass the new stricter SL standard.
The only thing that is cloudy in my mind is the issue of whether the Zinc formula or % is lower, higher, same or reformulated. The verbiage seems to hint that long life is a primary concern.
(the zinc in the formulas is the issue with longer/shorter cat life)
My overall take is that at worst it is no better than the SJ rating, which is very good and incidently the specs for my vehicles call for SJ. At best the new SL will let me extend the drain interval to 15k and beyond!!
The answer is NO the SL standard for oils is still 80 hours with no more than 50% thickening. It is a Ford or Honda Standard that requires 120 hours with the 50% thickening. Thickening is indicative of oxydation as well as sludge.
This is not unusual. Look at a bottle of valvoline 10W-40 SL, It will list Volkswagon, BMW, Corvette and Mercedes oil specifications in addition to a european one that is in excess of the SL standard.
I see, it is like the same as the GM standard for oil that I have on one car.
Like for example, Mobil One synthetic meets that standard and others do not necessarily even though they are synthetic?
If you are so confident that it is as good as some of the synthetic users on the board why don't you become the guinea pig?
Oh GEE! 7500 miles is the normal recommended range between oil changes for your vehicle, in the owners manual!!? (it is for mine and that interval was recommended with that old junk SJ standard!) Now 6000 miles on the SL rated conventional oil is really living on the wild side!
(Being as how the new interval for SL rated conventional oil is actually 12,000 miles and you guys think me a wild child for a 15,000 miles oil change interval with synthetic, SJ rated!
I'm sorry that it offends you "true synthetic" users that I could even compare Chevron SL to Mobil-1 or Walmart "synthetic".I (and many others) think that the gap has closed so much,that it is nuts to waste the money on the above oils.(remember,I have never said that "synthetics are obviously superior to dinos as bottgers has done -OR vice versa).No blanket statements like that from me.Nor will I admit that Chevron SL is inferior to Mobil-1---I don't know and I dare say that you don't either.
AFA oil testing,I think of it as a waste of $$,even though I'm curious as to the results.If I were paying $4.45 a qt for oil,I might consider analysis(but only trend analysis makes good sense to me ).And my opinion is still that Chevron SL,changed at reasonable intervals(4,000 odd miles) is probably overkill.
To me, 6000 miles IS an extended drain interval for conventional oil.
Granted, many people are going that long, or longer. Those people think they are fine but they probably don't realize that their oil might be wearing out with that many miles on it.
You might consider a filter change at 3000 miles (maybe you already are).
Perhaps someone has some good information here. I'm sure armtdm probaboy can answer this.
Or then again it may not!! Look I am not the one who has the doubt! So while you may agree that oil analysis is a waste of money, it is the very thing that could possibly keep you from continually wasting it! But it will always be a "doubt" unless you "test" it. The bottom line is I have no problem at all with you using Chevron SL conventional oil. In fact, thank you very much!! The stock is doing wonderfully for me! Shoot I should stand here and tell you to change it every 1500 miles!
What grade will you be using?
I do want to say that although some posts seem to be pretty contentious, we live in a great country where choice and right-of-opinion are so highly coveted that these boards are able to exist and thrive. Without that, we would only have one or two brands with which to debate
Who are you kidding? You won't believe it under any circumstance! >:o[ LOL
Yes synthetic is app 3x longer lasting than conventional oil, so yes 22,500 to be exact. But ultimately it is easy to get a true picture by getting a cost per mile for lubrication.
Or let me approach it another way. If the useful life of SL conventional is 12,000 miles and you change it at 3000,4000,5000,6000 miles what is the range of % waste on the useful life remaining? And the conventional oil advocates say this is cheap? or cheap insurance?
Decisions...decisions. Thanks
The question that keeps going through my mind when people state that 3K oil changes is the STANDARD and to go beyond that is blasphemy is this: Where did they learn about that "standard". Most likely it was based on advice passed down by their parents, etc., which was based on the auto and oil industry's recommendations. But guess what? Both the auto and oil industries are now recommending oil changes beyond the traditional 3K. Only the oil changing shops are still advocating 3K changes.
Question is, do you trust the motives of the auto and oil industries? Well, you trusted it before when they said 3K changes...why not now?
Because we want evidence beyond a doubt, and then some, that it won't harm our engines! Well, there will never be any studies to satisfy that criteria for everyone.
Me, I use Mobil 1, and change at 6 months with my severe driving cuz that's a "reasonable" balance between following the manual's recommendations and having a little faith in the expensive oil I paid for. Is it overkill? Probably, but that's all right cuz I'd rather spend a little more than have to deal with the hassle of a sludged engine later down the road.
For those interested in protecting the environment and/or getting the most for their money/time, I think the only way to determine the safest interval for extended drains is to do serial oil analysis. No two engines are the same, and no two drivers drive under the same conditions, so no matter the published studies, your engine and your driving habits may be different - for better or worse.
Very good point. This board is pretty civil, but we could lessen the argumentative aspect significantly if all of us acknowledged the validity of your theory.
For me, the "evidence" shows it is quite likely that Mobil 1 is safe to be used well beyond 6,000 miles. However, that is the top end of my comfort zone and I'm not willing to leave the oil in my vehicles any longer than that.