Synthetic motor oil

armtdm

Yea Amsoil is hard to find if you want to get it through a dealer. You can order online via www.amsoil.com. The independent dealers were established back at the beginning of time and being a privately held company the owner is totally loyal to the dealers so other then some parts stores where the owner is also a dealer it is tough to see on the shelf. I am lucky, my dealer also has inventory. I swear by it but not sure what I would do if I had to order via mail order.

nikecar

I wouldn't go by a 99 model to think the 00 model is the same. I did that and got burned.

I have a 99 Altima GXE and when I did my first oil change, the books didn't have 99s, only 98. Since they are the exact same car, I figured it would be ok (felt too smart to ask someone). The 98's filter is larger than the 99's. Luckily, i was doing it at my mom's house so i took her car to replace it. Also my dad did the same on his Frontier truck. He got the previous year's which was wrong size.

pinecrestjim

Thanks for the Mobil1 filter reference. Both the '99 and '00 use the same model Purolator filter, so the M-106 you located should work on the '00.

I had looked at the Mobil1 site, but didn't peek in at the e-store.

Thanks again,

Jim M.

armtdm

If the filter base is the same, both thread design and gasket seal you can use the large capacity filter as long as it fits and does not interfere with anything. In fact, this is preferable. A larger filter has more filtering capacity and holds more oil both of which are beneficial. I have done this on two cars now, original equip filters on some are tiny and the space will allow for a larger filter. The manufacturer simply uses the small ones to make it easier for them and of course, no doubt they cost less as well.

jed1894

Found out today that Quaker State 4x4 Synthetic Blend only has about 4% synthetic material. Not much there is it. Anyway.... I believe I stated earlier.... I'm thinking of going to full synthetic Mobil 1 or going back to regular 10w30 conv. oil.

My truck has 27K miles and has been changed every 3000 miles with Quaker State 4x4 Synthetic Blend. I don't live in cold area, so temp. won't be to big of a factor. I leaning toward Castrol (conv. oil) 10w30 like my VW Passat runs (from factory).

Any problems switching to conv. oil from 4% syn. blend.....or should I go for the gusto and get the Mobile 1!

What about switching brands.....any problems there?

Thanks

armtdm

Go to synthetic and there is no problem switching brands. Just do not get the Castrol synthetic because it is not! There are only two major reputable synthetics, Mobil 1 and Amsoil.

sniffy

go for mobil1 trisynthetic
no problems between switching between conv/syn blend/syn.
if i were u though, i'd try and stick to one brand once i'm decided.

armtdm is right - castrol syntec is just a highly refined petroleum based oil. castrol originally use to buy base additives from mobil but stopped.
so our mobil gets pissed off and takes castrol to court.

rcarboni

Thought this was interesting...

Someone on another forum said that the October issue of High Performance Mopar has an article where 9hp and 3tq was gained on a Dakota R/T simply by switching to synthetics.

jed1894

I noticed today, while truck (99 Chevy 4.8 4x4) was idling that a slight chatter was coming from the bottom part of the motor. Is this normal for these engines?

Also, think Mobil 1 will cause more motor noise or possibly clear up what's there?

Another question (I may have asked earlier)....what you guys think of the this rumor about Syn. oils causing leaks, or finding leaks?

John

bblaha

Its not a rumor. It actually does happen, but only when you switch to synthetic on an old and (relatively) poorly maintained vehicle. Potential leaks (those areas where the seal is begining to fail) will often be filled in with gummed up dino oil, preventing the leak. Of course its also likely the gumming process aided the seal degredation in the first place.

This generally is the state of old engines that have not had their oil regularly changed. When synthetic is added, the detergents in the synth oil scrub away the gummed up dino oil, revealing the worn seal. Leaks can occur.

Also, even if there aren't any leaks, you can still have a problem. The gum that is scrubbed away can still block passages elsewhere in the engine, causing serious engine damage.

If you do switch to synth, and it probably can be done on any age vehicle if done carefully, its probably best to change slowly, using "blends" of increasing synthetic composition. And change the filter and oil frequently (some people recomend as often as every 2k - 3k miles?) until you are running full synthetic and there are no leaks and the oil remains clean.

jed1894

Thanks for info....It's amazing how many different opinions I get from different GM dealers: One dealer says go ahead it's (Syn. oil) great oil; the next dealer said exactly (just about word for word) what you said. Another dealer said stuff's not worth the expense if you're going to change 3k to 4k miles.

My personal experience with conv. oil has been great:

1. Just traded Honda with 170k miles. I used Hav. 10w30 every 3k to 4k miles. The car ran great at trade in.

2. My company car is serviced every 5k miles with Hav. 10w30 as was my last one. I drive these company cars (crown vict) VERY hard and well sell them with about 130 - 140k miles. They're usually bought by another company who then uses them another 100k miles. Goes to show you ----- if a motor is serviced properly, it will last.

John

armtdm

absolutely correct. The synthetic simply gives some added protection/assurance. Just got my analysis back on mty 98 Maxima, this oil had 12,100 miles on it, filter changed at about 6,500 miles. Analysis looks great, oil was okay for continued use, I changed oil & filter though. All wear metals really down as was the silicon. Now have 54,000 miles engine has had 6 oil changes. Amsoil 10W30 all the way with Amsoil filters. Converted to synthetic aT 3,000 MILES. Use the larger capacity filter as there is room to do so, tight fit but much much larger then the OEM which is the size of a 4 oz cup.

cutehumor

I have a 1992 mitsubishi mirage, 4 door, 1.5 L, 4 speed auto with 90 k on it, it started burning oil around 87k. It happened pretty suddenly. I just checked the dipstick, and the oil is on the minnimum mark, and I haven't reached the 3k interval to change it. I've only driven 2400 miles out of 3000 miles. I use 4 quarts of quaker state oil (not synthetic)in my car when I change it. what can I do to stop my car from burning oil? will a change from conventional oil to synthetic oil hurt my car since it has 90k miles on it? (I heard synthetic oil is better) It never burned oil since I have owned the car for two years now, but it has been a real hot summer in Memphis this year where temperatures have reached 105 degrees for almost two weeks, and heat indexes above that.(an explanation for the burning oil maybe?) I know that once a car starts burning oil it's too late, but I want to delay it for a couple of years until I'm done with school. I'm a poor college student, and I can't afford to buy a new car. If anyone could give me some advice, I would greatly appreciated. --Michael

wight1

as you noted, it's probably too late to "stop" the burning oil situation. Changing to synthetic oil now won't help, and in fact, might hurt, because synthetic oil will clean up all the sludge and oil deposits in your engine and cause old seals to start leaking. So in addition to burning oil, you might start leaking oil as well.

some suggestions:
1. first, are you sure it is burning oil and not leaking somewhere. If it's burning oil badly, you will have blue smoke out the tailpipe. If it's jut leaking somewhere, you can find the oily spot on the engine (valve covers or front or rear engine seals maybe) and get that fixed to stop the problem.

2. If it is in fact burning oil, it's probably worn piston rings or leaky valve seals, which as a poor college student, you wouldn't want to spend a lot of money on fixing.

3. As a poor college student, don't waste your money on synthetic oil this late in the game. Instead, I would suggest you maybe switch to Valvoline Maxlife oil, which is made for higher mileage engines like yours - it supposedly helps reduce oil consumption. You might also try switching to a higher weight oil, which can also help reduce consumption, i.e. if you are now using 10W30 oil, try going up to 10W40.

good luck

armtdm

Check the PCV valve, poor function there can impact oil consumption. Also, synthetic will not help oil consumption but will help if you run low and do not notice it. Better chance of saving the engine with very low synthetic as opposed to dino.
Sudden oil usage usaully points to other then worn parts. Wear occurs over time, not suddenly.

armtdm

So. please inform us as to which ones are true synthetics. My vote would be for Mobil 1, Amsoil, Redline, Royal Purple. problem with Redline and Royla Purple, almost impossible to find!

Please. summarize the newsletters!

armtdm

Oh, you forgot to mention that Nutz and Bolts is sponsored by Redline, No conflict of interest there, RIGHT!!!!!! This is stated at the bottom of the web site. So, naturally, who would you promote. Like most oil companies Redline is all kudos from customers but they, like most cannot or will not provide any independent lab results and the name of the lab that ran the tests. All anecdotal evidence from Redline!!!!!!!!!!!!!

vadp

armtdm,
would you please present any evidence that Amsoil is superior to Redline, Mobil 1 or vice versa.
Do you have any independent lab comparison of those oils?
You BELIEVE that Amsoil and Mobil 1 is oil of choice.
19Delta BELIEVES that RedLine is the one.
Until somebody obtains some legitimate comparison results all we can do is just speculate.
BTW it's not imposible to find RedLine or RoyalPurple.
They provide a list of distributors on their sites. RoyalPurple also sells oil in its online store.

http://www.synerlec.com/index.html

http://www.redlineoil.com/

armtdm

Never said that Amsoil or Mobil superior. I just don't like people who claim that a product is better when all along the site is sponsored by the manufacturer of the product. RedLine is a good oil as are the other two. People's perception is their reality and when I see that a site or person is sponsored by a manufacturer there is an automatic assumption of conflict of interest (they are buying the opinion). If Nutz and Boltz did not want anyone to perceive a conflict, and accept their opinion, they never should have accepted Redlines "money" Sorry, "MONEY TALKS"

vadp

Post #153
For my cars, Amsoil only and if it were not
available it would be Mobil 1. All others are
wannabees.

Post #176
After 9 years of synthetics I swear
by them, well, swear by Mobil 1 and Amsoil only,
all others are imitations!

Post #202
I use Amsoil but in speaking to the lead
chemist at Amsoil one day he confirmed that if he
did not use Amsoil ( or probably work for them) he
would use Mobil 1. These are really the only two,
the others (new to the field) are wannabees just
jumping on the synthetic wagon as it rolls on.

Post #255
I prefer Amsoil
and have used it for nine years. Swear by it,
however, Mobil 1 is great and it is the only one I
would recommend besides Amsoil. All others are new to the field and wannabees.

Post #370
There are only two major reputable synthetics, Mobil 1 and Amsoil.

vadp

You say now:"RedLine is a good oil."
As good as any other wannabee and imitation, if I follow you correctly?

armtdm

Getting off of the topic of sponsors aren't we?

Why don't we wait to see what the newsletter recommended for synthetics other then RedLine. Real interesting if it was the only one!

Wannabees, I admit personal prejudice. Came into the market to get on the trend, not innovators or leaders. Like you say, nothing authoritative on this subject, all testimonials! By the way, Use Water Wetter from RedLine, just think their oil is too expensive.

wayn1

I think that Amsoil is the best. Why? It's the only 100% synthetic that can and does last for one year or 25,000 miles whichever comes first. And they have been doing this since 1972. I think thats a pretty darn good track record. Thats my two cents worth. Oh, been using the stuf for six years now and no complaints.

vadp

Am I right, wayn1?

cutehumor

hi,

thanks for the advice. I followed it. I bought the valvoline 10w40 maxlife for engines over 75k, and changed my oil using the valvoline. I was using 10w30 conventional quaker state, I'll let ya know what happens if the engine is still burning oil or not.

Sincerely,
Michael

ro22tol

For many years I have used amsoil, but their last price increase was the last straw. So I now use Mobil 1 from Walmart for $20.80/6 quarts or $3.47 per quart. Amsoil might be a slightly better oil, but Mobil 1 is available most anywhere for about half the cost.

wayn1

Yes you are right! Anything wrong being a dealer who adds a few comments or advise?

eggnog

This forum is so full of information so based on all the posts, I am going to try Mobil 1

BTW, I have Redline in my Forc Explorer now, purely based on my neighborhood's auto store's recommendation. The store said things similar to the claims by Amsoil supporters in this forum, something like 15 to 20K miles between oil changes and it was the only synthetic they carried.

I am going to start trying one method recommended here: changing the oil filter more often say every 4k to 5K miles and then adding another quart of new synthetic oil.

After reading all the posts I see no clear cut winner among Amsoil, Redline, and Mobil 1. I see equal numbers of people claiming good results with all three.
So, I am going to try Mobil 1 for the first time. As is the case with peoples' experiences with Wal-mart and Target stores, I found it at K-mart, on sale for $3.50 a quart, regularly something like $4.70. This was too good to pass up so I bought two cases. Also bought a Mobil 1 filter while I was there.

vadp

There is nothing wrong with being an Amsoil dealer(especially when you save a couple of bucks in the process). Just your claims about the product are not supported with anything but pure enthusiasm.

jed1894

Replaced Conv. oil (actually syn. blend) with Mobil 1 today. Had 27700 miles on Chevy Silverado. Hope it works....guess I won't know for a while.

John

carnut30

...full synthetic has a statement on the back label that it is fully synthetic. The 10W30 meets Corvette specifications (GM4718M).
I started to use it because Consumer Reports, which (asininely) advised against the use of any synthetic, stated that this one was less viscous than the others. Where dino 10W30 gives easy starts down to 10°F, I would guess that Valvoline SynPower 10W30 gives easy starts down to about 0°F. The lower viscosity would allow the engine to rev up faster, improving acceleration. I have no evidence of the type we would all like.

wayn1

Enthusiasm is way out of line! Unless you have tried a product, don't knock it. Are you going to say the same thing if I mention Zaino Bros. car wax? This is not the place for wise cracks! Just good clean information that people have had some experience. Enough said!

jed1894

While going over my 99 Chevy manual, I noticed that 5w30 oil was "preferred." However, where I live it only gets to about 15 deg. in winters. The summers are usally 100 (high). Very rarely does it fall below 10 deg. here.

Anyway, I've already put the Mobil 1 syn. 10w30 in the Chevy.....I'll probably have it in through most of the winter.

Will the Syn. form of the 10w30 help with my cold weather question?

What you think...

John

sniffy

10w30 oil is good till -20 degrees celcius (you'll have to convert that to fahrenheit)

bblaha

-4 deg F

armtdm

Two of my cars call for 5W30 and I have used 10W30 their entire life only because I refuse to keep multiple weights of oil stocked in my garage at home. Plus a synthetic 0W, 5W or 10W-30 flow point is down to about a minus 60 degrees so do not worry about the weight where you live, or in fact, in most climates in this country. I would not go above the 30 weight high end (ie: no 10W40) on newer cars but the low end is very flexible in my humble opinion. Some Fords now looking at a 5W20 weight.

jed1894

I appreciate the quick response...feel better now.

John

vadp

Are you using the Zaino wax too?
An exellent product.
The problem is that you don't have to make an extensive research and run millions of miles in order to evaluate the car waxes.
Oils are not that obvious.
Thank you for giving us your "just good clean information that people have had some experience."
Unfortunately your experience doesn't provide too much of information in it.

rcarboni

Amsoil has shown to produce less wear than Mobil-1:
http://www.synthlubes.com/information.html

I've never seen any comparisons made by Mobil-1, Redline, or RP. Do you know of any tests conducted by the others?

Amsoil is also the only company that will tell you to extend your drain intervals, and provide a warranty against engine damage from their oil. I'm sure someone will say, "yeah, but they can easily get out of paying on the warranty by proving something else was the problem". To this I respond - then show me someone who has made a claim against Amsoil.

I am not an Amsoil dealer, but I do believe that they are the only company out there that does try to show test data to prove their superiority.

vadp

I'm not aware of ANY third party tests.
The manufacturers can claim anything they want.
And the page that you provide the link to looks,well, not convincing at all.
At least RedLine doesn't try a cheap trick like that.
Regarding the Amsoil warranty I'm joining you on "show me someone who has made a claim against Amsoil".

rcarboni

I'll try to find it, but I did see another wear test done by an unrelated company that showed Amsoil beating Mobil-1.

Again, at least Amsoil makes the effort for someone to disprove them. No one has tried. This should be proof enough. Every oil additive company on the market has been challenged in their claims, so it's not like anyone is gun-shy about taking a case to court.

Amsoil's claims are only "cheap tricks" if someone can disprove them. At least that's how I see it.

rcarboni

The other wear test that has circulated the oil forums was done for Lubrication Engineers products. They have no affiliation with Amsoil or Mobil-1, but showed that Amsoil produced less wear, yet Mobil-1 was a very good oil overall. Unfortunately, they did not test Redline or Royal Purple, so we still don't know how they would compare.

vadp

Here is one of many Amsoil propaganda sites.
http://www.BestSyntheticOil.com/amsoil/bigoil.shtml

Try these "Red Line not so good?" article.
http://www.BestSyntheticOil.com/amsoil/red_line.shtml

And of course "Industry Standard Testing Proves Amsoil Best"
http://www.BestSyntheticOil.com/amsoil/index.shtml

jed1894

I'm kinda new to this Syn. oil thing, but I can say this much. I can't find the stuff! I live in a rural area and the closest towns are about 30 miles. The two towns have population of 20k each. Each with Wal-mart, K-mart, Advance Auto, Napa, etc. None have even heard of Amsoil.

I don't know about the rest of you, but when I get ready to change my oil I go then and buy the oil and filter. Ordering the oil or traveling 1,2,or 3 hours is not possible.

If it were not for the above, I would probably try the stuff---it sounds pretty good.

Thanks....John

yurakm

I live in not so small town, in densely populated South-Central CT. Nevertheless, I bought Mobil-1 for exactly the same reason as you: the Amsoil must be ordered, and somebody must way at home for it to be delivered, while the Mobil-1 (0w-30, 5W-30 and 10w-30) are always available in the PepBoys next door.

jed1894

Not only is Mobil 1 available at all the places I mentioned, I learned a week ago (when I switched to Mobil 1) that Advance Auto Parts will match the prices at Wal-mart and K-mart. I didn't believe their claim until I went in and told them that K-mart had it on sale for 3.50 qt. The salesman didn't blink, he sold 6 qts at 3.50 each. The marked price was 4.29 a qt. at Advance Auto. He didn't even ask for a newspaper add or anything to prove my statement. They earned my busness.

JOhn

itsaplot

Is it best to wait until you have passed the initial "break in" period before you change to synthetic? I have hearrd that it's important for the pistons to "seat" themselves (whatever that means)before you change. Then, when you do change to synthetic, is it important to flush your engine of the dyno oil before adding the synthetic? My neighbor suggested using a flush but I can't see any reason for it. Am I wrong?

itsaplot

In the other forum topic "Engine Flushes," I read some advice that you should never flush your engine. So would changing to synthetic, go for a thousand miles and change again sound like a good way to make the transition over to synthetic? A new engine would be a terrible thing to waste. Thanks, Sandy

armtdm

Many new engines come from the factory with synthetics. No need to wait beyond the initial changes to switch over. Also, unless the engine has over 75,000 miles and not changed regularly (look inside the valve cover or oil filler cap for sludge) I would not bother flushing. Perhaps change the first fill after 3,000-5,000 then you should be okay. I did one at 50,000 with no problem, another at 30,000.

mrmusic

My dealer says that Acura has notified dealers to keep the original oil in the car until the first oil change at 3750 mi.....says it if formulated to serve the engine better during this break-in perion. After that.....syn oil is fine!

I too would try Amsoil if it were not so damned hard to get. Forget that. Since I plan to still change at Acura recommended points...I'll stay with Mobil 1!!!