1) To address the seat belt issue: My 97 Camry has seat belt retraction issues on the driver side. It must wear out quickly. Mine has been that way since at least 1999 (when I acquired the car) as the previous owner put a couple of nice dings in the doorjam by catching the buckle in the door. In my experience, at least 9 times out of ten the belt buckle gets out of the way enough to avoid being caught in the door though. (Sigh.................)
2) I have a certain pair of sneakers that causes static shocks getting in and out of the car as well. I have a very thick rubber floor mat too. I would think that might prevent that from happening, but no. The same pair of shoes causes that issue in a number of situations other than in the car, so I can't totally place the blame on the car.
3) I'll be replacing the front rotors for a second time in under 50,000 miles (I've will have had three sets if you count the ones that came with the car.) The shimmy is VERY noticeable on freeway offramps and at higher speeds. At lower speeds you can hear the creak and clank of what I was told is some type of "anti-noise plate" that must sit on top of the brake shoe. My mechanic said there was more than half of the pad life left so I'm forgoing new pads/rotors until these are good and toasted!!!
How about the rear joke for a cupholder in the 97's. I mean, someone out there must have destroyed that thing once or twice with kids and cans, etc. I know they did 'improve' it a little in '98. But Toy will not replace it nor will my dealer at this time. Right now I have duck tape sealing it shut since it flops out and can't hold s...t anymore! Nice touch of quality for sure...NEVER buy the first model year of ANY mfg@!!
I will look at the rear drums and live with the clanging dangling seatbelt. WHY DOES TOY HAVE THIS PROBLEM?? I have owned GM, Chrys., Mazda and never had seat belts that lost their retraction....more quality I guess.
My 02 Camry has about 7K on it and I've noticed deep grooving in the rear rotors. I called the dealer and they said "honestly, this is a characteristic of this model, it normal happens around 3,500 miles". Ok, it's a characteristic, but they haven't answered my question. Grooving of the rotors seems abnormal to me and suggests that they will need resurfaced. Are my brake pads totally worn away already? Anyone have this problem? I haven't had a problem with the brakes so far but this grooving worries me. I don't want to have to pay to have new rotors as well as pads put in. Anyone know of a way to talk to a factory representative or what can be done about this?? Thanks.
recently purchased 2000 camry LE with 38,000 miles, at 41,000 check engine light came on. After diagnostic test at Toyota Dealer, they say i need new charcoal cannister, at $900 !!. My regular mechanic said this should last the life of the car and I should try a new gas cap first. Anybody else have this problem?
BTW, Toyota won't cover this even with my extended warranty
I have a 03 Camry SE V6. When I first got the car half a year ago, I noticed a little vibration in the steering wheel while braking. I told the dealer about it but they said that the weather didn't permit them to test the car. I had been busy thereafter.
The problem worsened. So recently I've brought my car to the dealer again. Thought they would charge me to have it fixed. But they said it was under warranty. They said that the 2 front rotors were out of round and they had it machined. Very happy that there are no vibrations anymore. Used to feel like I had a hand massage everytime I applied the brake, especially off highway ramps.
However, I am not sure what they mean by the rotors being out of round. Is that normal for a new car? I don't drive hard. Although the problem is fixed, I am curious what they mean by it being out of round.
If anyone can answer this question that would be great. By the way, I am very happy with the service of the Toyota dealer that I go to. I used to have a 97 Camry with other problems and they always did a good job of fixing them.
I have a 03 Camry SE V6. When I first got the car half a year ago, I noticed a little vibration in the steering wheel while braking. I told the dealer about it but they said that the weather didn't permit them to test the car. I had been busy thereafter.
The problem worsened. So recently I've brought my car to the dealer again. Thought they would charge me to have it fixed. But they said it was under warranty. They said that the 2 front rotors were out of round and they had it machined. Very happy that there are no vibrations anymore. Used to feel like I had a hand massage everytime I applied the brake, especially off highway ramps.
However, I am not sure what they mean by the rotors being out of round. Is that normal for a new car? I don't drive hard. Although the problem is fixed, I am curious what they mean by it being out of round.
If anyone can answer this question that would be great. By the way, I am very happy with the service of the Toyota dealer that I go to. I used to have a 97 Camry with other problems and they always did a good job of fixing them.
If its like the problem with most of the Highlanders, it seems to be caused by the use of cheap mild steel for the rotor material that rusts so much that the corrosion in the vents of the rotors pushes outward and distorts the shape.
Toyota (and most Japanese makers) have always skimped on brakes. Even a Chevy Cavalier has better brakes than a Camry.
But as long as they machine them each time they're warped, then you're okay ... until your warantee runs out and they've been machined so many times that they are too thin and they have to be replaced. Then it will cost big $$$.
But hey, "you're lucky to be driving a Toyota!" as the dealers say.
Just read your problem #(56). I too have the same problem. 2002 SE Camry. The dealer said they can't find anything. Now my Mom has a 2002 LE same problem. She took it to them and they changed the rear strut which was bad. The noise went away. Go figure.
I am very disappointed with this car. I owned Toyota cars for the last 20 years. I have several problems. First, the brake rotors had to be cut after 7,000 miles. Now at 16,000 the same thing. Of course at my cost. I was a mechanic for 8 years, and bite my lip every time I have to go to the dealer. Also, the car hesitates when I excelerate to pass or get on the highway. It feels like an ignition problem, or injector problem. The dealer said this was "normal". The car has an electronic throttle and it's trying to catch up to the speed.Please! I also have the clunking into drive when first started, and a banging in the right rear when I hit bumps. Anyone else?
friend of mine is a hard driver and in the course of 120K miles has gone through four sets of front brakes on his 1998 Camry...despite this, and having to have the rotors machined twice during that time, he still did not need new rotors last time he went in for brakes...
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
My Thunk problem has never gone away, happens with hard starts and stops. After replacing all of the struts, the fuel tank, insulated everything, the problem coming from the rear of the car remains. Went to arbitration. Resolution was to keep fixing the car, not replacing it. After the next week of fixes.... replacing all trailing arms, front struts again, rear wheel bearings, rear suspension arms, and lots of arm assemblies and hub and bearing assemblies, the noise remains, and it might even be worse. The dealer thinks it is one or more bad welds on the unibody. That's something they can't find or fix! Anyone have a Toyota replaced? What do you say to that?
I have the same problem when my car (a 2000 Camry CE) accellerates. Nothing happens and then it abruptly lunges forward. I just got the car 2 weeks ago. I took it back to dealer three days after purchase. They blamed the AC and said this was normal for Camrys. I'm concerned, especially when I'm driving on expressway ramps, where you need to accellerate steadily. I've been avoiding expresway driving actually. This problem occurrs even when AC or other accessories are turned off. I asked Toyota about relevant recalls and they told me my car was not eligible for any recalls. I don't understand this at all.
Another thing, the transmission fluid is dark brown with black splotches -- is this normal for a car with 30k miles and shouldn't it have been cleaned? Any thoughts?
grooves in rotor surface: Not unusual for rotors to develop shallow grooves. Have had this happen on my Camrys without affecting braking. May want to check the rotors on other Camrys and compare to your own. On a Camry with alloy wheels, just reach your hand in between the spokes and drag a fingernail across the rotor. You'll be able to feel the degree of grooving.
Warped rotors (out of round): A real problem with modern disk brakes. Not sure if Toyota is worse than other makes. Some feel that car makers are using thin disks to meet CAFE standards. The problem can also be created by mechanics torquing lug nuts with an air gun.
I too have the hesitation and surging around 50 MPH on my '02 LE V6. But the biggest concern I have is the clunking into drive when going from reverse to drive after starting the car in the morning. Naturally the service greeters at the dealers just say it's normal and they can't do anything about it and refuse to even lift the hood to diagnose the problem. My first and last Toyota.
My wife has an 02 Camry SE-V6 and the car still makes a clunk noise when first shifting into drive in the morning. It doesn't make a difference if put the car into drive directly from park (after first backing the car into the garage the night before), or if I back the car out of the garage, then shift into drive, I still get the 'clunk' noise. The dealer said that it is normal--I think they called it 'cold shift shock', mainly due to the engine being at fast idle. I asked the dealer why does the 'clunk' only appear the FIRST time the car is shifted into drive. I can shift back into reverse, then into drive again and there is no 'clunk'. The engine RPM is still the same since the engine is still cold. Why don't I have the 'cold shift shock' every time I shift into drive until the engine/ transmission warms up? They couldn't explain. I e-mailed Toyota this question and they replied that the dealer is highly trained to solve these problems, and they would take care of the problem for me... Since the 'clunk' seemed louder in the cold weather, I thought that changing the transmission fluid to a synthetic could solve the problem. I checked with both Amsoil, and Mobil 1, but neither one sells a synthetic fluid for the Camry. I'm not sure where to go from here. (Maybe Honda Accord??)
I also had a pulsation from the front brakes and the dealer REPLACED the rotors, at about 12,000 miles. Chuckie-- Your dealer shouldn't have cut your rotors, he should have REPLACED them. So far I have no problems with throttle hesitation / surging. Time will tell though...
I have a 2003 Camry LE V6. I have had it one year and the driver's side door handle broke in my hand trying to get out. It is a thin V shaped piece of Plastic. The dealer will replace in under warranty, but this is a Dodge type problem, and I am disappointed with this in Toyota. The dealer here said he has had two or three others break like this. How many others out there. Is this just trying to squeeze the last dime out of the production costs?
If anyone has any ideas as to what a custom seat cushion (referenced in another discussion)would be or how to obtain one please post information. My 03 XLE seat bottom stops a good four to five inches back from the bend in my knee and is causing me all kinds of ergonomic problems. For my husband the seat is just fine. But as luck would have it I am the primary driver. If anyone has any experience/advice that I could draw on I would REALLY appreciate it. I am willing to try anything. Car is great but selling it for any reason this soon would be bad financially this soon out. Thanks, Gonkraz
I just talked to a friend of mine who's a Tech at Toyota. He told me there's a bunch of things wrong with the 2002s LE, XLE, SE. But Toyota will not give in. I'm about at my last breath with them. I've owned Toyota's for a long time. this Year and Model is by far the most troublesome. I don't know what to do. I have a 5 year loan. I drive ALOT!! I'm stuck.. Any suggestions?
What's about the 2003 model? And what seems to be a problem on 02 Camry. For the problem that I read about is some rattles. My 03 SE is just two weeks ago without any problem. Anyway, it seems to me Toyota is cutting cost on Camry. When I compared my new Camry with my 10 years old Honda Accord and 6 months old Kia Sorento, there are several small things are not in my Camry. I didn't own any Camry before. So these items may not be there in the previous generation of the Camry anyway. Items like foldaway side mirrors, courtesy lights, illuminated power window and lock switch and lockable trunk release.
The dash brake light on my 2000 Camry CE 5 speed stays on for about 5 minutes after starting up, and then comes on intermittently (usually when turning). The fluid level is OK. Dealer wanted to do a complete brake job (car only has 25k miles) but Midas could find no wear and tear.. Any ideas?
a relative of mine bought 94 camry LE V6 for 21000 in 1994, I bought 2003 camry LE V6 for 21,000, clear cost cutting and mine has the powerdriver seat + ABS, and some other interior enhancements
i used to wax the 94 camry, it looks good right after waxed, but as time goes on, it leaves those circular tiny scratches. i never wax my gold metallic lexus or 03 Silver camry, and they still look new.
I didn't compare mine (03 SE 4 cyl) with previous Camry because I have never owned one before. I just compared some tiny features with Accord which Toyota may forget or never thought about it like foldaway side mirrors, courtesy lights, illuminated power window & lock switch and lockable trunk release or even the warning sound when you leave the headlights on. Maybe Toyota is cutting cost on these but spent it on the power seat, daytime running lights with auto shut off and digital clock with outside temparture displace.
I must say when I picked up my 2002 SE Camry (LOADED) every option, from heated seats to Navigational system. I loved it. But after 500 miles I started hearing thumping noises from the rear. I checked the spare tire it was tight. Sometimes it sounds like the right rear door or window.Sometimes it's like the rear struts, or strut mounts.Toyota found nothing. Then the front rotors were out of round. Causing a shimmy in the steering wheel. They Cut, (not replaced them)That was good for another 10,000 miles. Now It's doing the same thing. Also the rear rotors. I get a shimmy under the front and rear seats upon braking. I worked on cars for 10 years. I know when theres a problem.Toyota told me if they cut the fronts again I would have to pay.Long story short. I'm going to replace all 4 on my own. Next, the most annoying thing is the sputtering upon exceleration. No matter if it's from a dead stop, or on a highway.If you know about the old time cars, it's like you have a bad plug, wire,or just an ignition problem. Toyota tells me this is normal in all the 02 V6's.They tell me this car has Electronic Throttle. That's the way it works. No way! When I have people in the car they ask me what the hell is that? I owned Toyotas a long time.I have a 93 Celica GTS with 155,000 miles and it's never given me a problem like this. I'm very disappointed. I have been told the 03's V6's are the same. Be careful, and check it out.
I had the same symptions as Bob12c had with his camry. It sounded like a bowling ball rolling around in the trunk. I mentioned this to a mechanic friend who told me he had a similiar Camry that drove him crazy trying to solve this. His solution, change the rear stabilizer bushings. I did that, and problem solved. Parts are only around 18 dollars and you can do it yourself.
My 98 Camry (with just above 40K miles) shows check engine light all the time, and sometimes it is hard to start while cold.
My mechanic told me these error codes: P0171 system too lean, bank 1 [confirmed by reading msgs #970-#974, #634-#637] P0125 insufficient temp for close loop P1135
Anyway, he suggested replacing oxygen sensor ($300 part), and thermal stat. But non-Toyota brand part "only" costs about $150 at Kragen. My questions are: (1) Where can I get "English" description of the error codes? (2) Any less expensive alternative?
BTW, my cold start problem disappears after I replaced the spark plugs.
I have had my camry 03 SE-4 less than 1 week---less than 100 miles on odometer---front brake rotors are perfectly smooth----rear rotors are not smooth.--- appear to be scored somewhat,(by look and feel).Is this normal for the rear brakes?
A few weeks ago I purchased a used 2002 Camry with 18K miles on it. I noticed after a day or so a very subtle intermittent grinding sound in the front end. As (bad) luck would have it, I got a flat tire at about the same time. When I brought it in to the tire shop, they noted that the front tires had a significant amount of wear on the corners, due to either underinflation or hard cornering (though what kind of goofball corners hard in a Camry, I don't know). I had the tires replaced and front end aligned, and the grinding sound got a little better. But not much. It is still there.
I spoke to my salesman at Toyota and he said to bring it in for a look. I'll do that, but am afraid that they'll claim there is no problem after a cursory look at the car. How should I handle the fine folks at the dealership?
I also have a semi-related question about this car. When I was shopping, this particular vehicle was in the trade-in pen and hadn't been prepped or anything yet. As you know, Toyota has a Certified used car program. During my test drive, I asked my guy if the car was certified and he gave me a very noncommital "yes". However, I'm not so sure. I didn't receive any paperwork indicating that the promised 160-point inspection was done or anything like that. They cleaned it up real nice, but I have no record of anything else being done. How should I approach this? I'd like to have a Certified vehicle, and it seems that a one-year-old car should be in that category, but I'm not sure. What do you think?
By feel I mean, with my fingers. I can feel and see grooves on both rear rotors. I don't notice anything unusual about the car braking. It just seems unusual for a new car's rotors to look like this. I need to know if anyone has an opinion, before I talk to the dealer-- and have him tell me that it is normal.
Hello, I recently had my firewall oxygen sensor replaced on my 99 v6. The part was only $157 from toyota. Granted there was $100 worth of labor. If it is your oxygen sensor on the front side of the engine there should be just 1 hour or less of labor. Definately should not have to pay $300 for the part. They are most likely just trying to rip you off. Don't let them. Good Luck and Happy motoring Bob
Try www.oxygensensors.com $79 to $99 depending on v6 or 4 cyl engine and very fast shipping. I'm sure there are other sites as good but I was pleased with this one. Change the thermostat and cancel the codes then run the car to see if the first code reappears before changing the o2 sensor.
I have a 2001 Camry with 4 Cyl. engine. It has 37000 miles and it uses about a quart of oil every 2500 miles. the dealer says it is normal, but I have a hard time to believe it. Any comments???
Is the rear stabilization bushing the same as the sway bar bushing? I'm asking because my '95 Camry is also making a clunking noise over certain bumps (most noticeable over a washboard type of road -- small to moderate bumps. Now that I re-read your post, I'm not sure that the sounds are the same.). I had the sway bar bushings checked (said they were okay) and relubricated, but the clunking is still there.
The "thunking" noise I am refering to was strictly coming from the rear trunk area. It sounded like the spare tire was loose and bouncing up and down in the tire well-with the sound reverberating thru the entire fooor pan on every sizeable bump I hit. The part# for the bushings (qty 2) is 48818-06090. This # is for the '97-'01 (4) cyl. The '95 might be a different #. The rubber bushings "look good" upon visual inspection while on the vehicle, but they wear out over time and once you compare a new one next to one taken off the vehicle, you will see and feel the difference.I would try this "fix" if you think your sounds and clunks are similar. Good luck.
Thanks for the info. It would be the second time in 60 days that a repair shop has given a bogus diagnosis. As inexpensive as it is, I'll give it a try.
And the sound you described is exactly what I've got.
Has anyone had this problem with their 95 4 cyl Camry with 99K miles on it? About once every 2 weeks after decelerating (say to go into a turn or for a red light), the engine stalls. I first tried adding 3 cans of dry gas to the gas tank but to no avail. Two weeks later it stalled again, so I changed the fuel filter. After stalling again, I cleaned the throttle body. After stalling again, I had the Toyota dealer clean the throttle body. When it happened again, I gave up and took it in to the dealer again. They said everything(plugs, wires, etc.) was OK and didn't charge me for the visit. The plugs should have been OK since they only had 9K on them. Three days later, it was really bad again. I had to keep the engine at over 2000 rpm just to get the car to the dealer. They changed the distributor cap, rotor, plugs and wires (the same ones that 3 days earlier were checked out OK) - $400. Two weeks later the same stalling occurred. It seems to be worse in damp weather but the stalling has occurred on sunny warm days as well. Any one have any idea.
I have 90 Camry. It stalled when the engine was warm and drove on street. It only happened when i stopped at traffic light. It ran OK on freeway. I replaced spark plugs, wires, distributor cap and rotor, fuel filter,added 1 can of fuel injector cleaner. The problem was still there. First it happened once in 2 weeks,then 1 week then every time the engine is warm. I used hair blower to heat up the TPS(throttle position sensor)when the engine was cold and saw that the RPM was unstable, moved up and down. It cost+ me around $100 for the TPS. Finally the problem was fixed and it took me 5 months to find out. Hope this will help you.
Bob, I just read your problem. I have the same problem. The only thing is the dealer claims there's no noise. I can't begin to tell you how unhappy I am with this car. I loaded this car with every available option. From heated leather seats,to GPS Navigational System. Every option available. I have more problems with this car then my hands can write. The dealers response is,"That's the way these 02's are. I would love to try and give it back. The only thing is I have 25,000 miles already. I'm stuck.
I noticed a scratch mark on both rear disc rotors on my 03 Camry SE. My car has just over 400 miles now. The front disc rotors are smooth as the first day I picked up my car. The scratch mark isn't deep but I can see the circle and feel it when touch it by fingers. I first thought it may dust or sand get into the brake pad or rotors. Buy why there are the same marks on both rotors? I may have to go back to dealer to find out.
It is important to break in properly for your brakes in first 300 miles. The problem is the brake pads were not flat with rotors when both were new. Hard braking could make deep score to your rotors.
I have a 2002 Camry V-6. My driver's seat has electronic adjustment capability. Every time I'm driving and I come to a stop my seat lurches forward slightly. It isn't major, but it has become very annoying. I took it to one dealer's service department. They acknowledged that there is a slight shift, but their body shop said it was within a normal range. Another dealer said the same thing. I've never had electric seats before, but I can't imagine that every Camry with these seats has some type of shift. Has anyone else experienced and resolved this?
canoe2 - That's why I thought about the deep score to the disc rotors. I hardly drive this new Camry. It is my wife's car. I am sure she didn't do any harm to the brake or everything during the run in period. BTW, why only happened on the rear disc rotors. I supposed all four brakes are applied when braking. The front rotors are perfectly new.
2 Worksport- took my 02 V-6 xle to Escondido Toyota for same problem. They replaced the seat track under warranty. I think the part number is 72020-AA030 Adjuster Assy, FR SE FC: 711041J.
I have 4 dics brakes and the car has 2200Km. I checked the surface for front and rear rotors, both are in excellent condition, no any signs of deep scores. The other thing is quite important that all the nuts for wheel to be torqued correctly. Hope this helps
Comments
2) I have a certain pair of sneakers that causes static shocks getting in and out of the car as well. I have a very thick rubber floor mat too. I would think that might prevent that from happening, but no. The same pair of shoes causes that issue in a number of situations other than in the car, so I can't totally place the blame on the car.
3) I'll be replacing the front rotors for a second time in under 50,000 miles (I've will have had three sets if you count the ones that came with the car.) The shimmy is VERY noticeable on freeway offramps and at higher speeds. At lower speeds you can hear the creak and clank of what I was told is some type of "anti-noise plate" that must sit on top of the brake shoe. My mechanic said there was more than half of the pad life left so I'm forgoing new pads/rotors until these are good and toasted!!!
I will look at the rear drums and live with the clanging dangling seatbelt. WHY DOES TOY HAVE THIS PROBLEM?? I have owned GM, Chrys., Mazda and never had seat belts that lost their retraction....more quality I guess.
My regular mechanic said this should last the life of the car and I should try a new gas cap first. Anybody else have this problem?
BTW, Toyota won't cover this even with my extended warranty
The problem worsened. So recently I've brought my car to the dealer again. Thought they would charge me to have it fixed. But they said it was under warranty. They said that the 2 front rotors were out of round and they had it machined. Very happy that there are no vibrations anymore. Used to feel like I had a hand massage everytime I applied the brake, especially off highway ramps.
However, I am not sure what they mean by the rotors being out of round. Is that normal for a new car? I don't drive hard. Although the problem is fixed, I am curious what they mean by it being out of round.
If anyone can answer this question that would be great. By the way, I am very happy with the service of the Toyota dealer that I go to. I used to have a 97 Camry with other problems and they always did a good job of fixing them.
The problem worsened. So recently I've brought my car to the dealer again. Thought they would charge me to have it fixed. But they said it was under warranty. They said that the 2 front rotors were out of round and they had it machined. Very happy that there are no vibrations anymore. Used to feel like I had a hand massage everytime I applied the brake, especially off highway ramps.
However, I am not sure what they mean by the rotors being out of round. Is that normal for a new car? I don't drive hard. Although the problem is fixed, I am curious what they mean by it being out of round.
If anyone can answer this question that would be great. By the way, I am very happy with the service of the Toyota dealer that I go to. I used to have a 97 Camry with other problems and they always did a good job of fixing them.
Toyota (and most Japanese makers) have always skimped on brakes. Even a Chevy Cavalier has better brakes than a Camry.
But as long as they machine them each time they're warped, then you're okay ... until your warantee runs out and they've been machined so many times that they are too thin and they have to be replaced. Then it will cost big $$$.
But hey, "you're lucky to be driving a Toyota!" as the dealers say.
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
Went to arbitration. Resolution was to keep fixing the car, not replacing it.
After the next week of fixes.... replacing all trailing arms, front struts again, rear wheel bearings, rear suspension arms, and lots of arm assemblies and hub and bearing assemblies, the noise remains, and it might even be worse.
The dealer thinks it is one or more bad welds on the unibody. That's something they can't find or fix! Anyone have a Toyota replaced?
What do you say to that?
I asked Toyota about relevant recalls and they told me my car was not eligible for any recalls. I don't understand this at all.
Another thing, the transmission fluid is dark brown with black splotches -- is this normal for a car with 30k miles and shouldn't it have been cleaned?
Any thoughts?
Warped rotors (out of round): A real problem with modern disk brakes. Not sure if Toyota is worse than other makes. Some feel that car makers are using thin disks to meet CAFE standards. The problem can also be created by mechanics torquing lug nuts with an air gun.
I also had a pulsation from the front brakes and the dealer REPLACED the rotors, at about 12,000 miles. Chuckie-- Your dealer shouldn't have cut your rotors, he should have REPLACED them.
So far I have no problems with throttle hesitation / surging. Time will tell though...
My mechanic told me these error codes:
P0171 system too lean, bank 1
[confirmed by reading msgs #970-#974,
#634-#637]
P0125 insufficient temp for close loop
P1135
Anyway, he suggested replacing oxygen sensor ($300 part), and thermal stat. But non-Toyota brand part "only" costs about $150 at Kragen.
My questions are:
(1) Where can I get "English" description of the
error codes?
(2) Any less expensive alternative?
BTW, my cold start problem disappears after I replaced the spark plugs.
Thanks,
May-mei
I spoke to my salesman at Toyota and he said to bring it in for a look. I'll do that, but am afraid that they'll claim there is no problem after a cursory look at the car. How should I handle the fine folks at the dealership?
I also have a semi-related question about this car. When I was shopping, this particular vehicle was in the trade-in pen and hadn't been prepped or anything yet. As you know, Toyota has a Certified used car program. During my test drive, I asked my guy if the car was certified and he gave me a very noncommital "yes". However, I'm not so sure. I didn't receive any paperwork indicating that the promised 160-point inspection was done or anything like that. They cleaned it up real nice, but I have no record of anything else being done. How should I approach this? I'd like to have a Certified vehicle, and it seems that a one-year-old car should be in that category, but I'm not sure. What do you think?
this. I need to know if anyone has an opinion,
before I talk to the dealer-- and have him tell
me that it is normal.
Thanks lok888,for your response
Any comments???
Might be time to find a better dealer!
2014 Mini Cooper (stick shift of course), 2016 Camry hybrid, 2009 Outback Sport 5-spd (keeping the stick alive)
And the sound you described is exactly what I've got.
The other thing is quite important that all the nuts for wheel to be torqued correctly.
Hope this helps