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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions



  • sandman46sandman46 Posts: 1,798
    Ours broke and could never get it fixed right. My advise, get a regular antenna and leave it at that! The dealer here in south florida wanted a ridiculous price for the work, so just got the whip kind. A lot cheaper and radio worked fine!

    The Sandman :-)
  • wainwain Posts: 479
    made by Harada
    pep boys sells them for $19
    same as OE
    take out the old one put in the new one (may have to open the "case" in the trunk if a piece is broken off
  • ...coming from the car stereo area...quiet sometimes rattles others. Other rattles in each door at ear made in May...Anyone else have this and/or a solution?
  • Hi folks,
    I just bought a XLE 4 cyl. with side air bag option. I don't see the heated side mirror option, which I though is standard for XLE. any idea?
  • jtan3jtan3 Posts: 6
    Hi folks,

    I have a Camry LE 1999 model. Just in this two months, I have got 3 engine problem warning from my car. After checking with the dealer service center. Here what they found and fixed:
    1) Engine Control unit Replaced (covered)
    2) Air fuel sensor replaced
    3) Oxygen sensor replaced (2 & 3 are not covered after 3 years and I bought the car 3year+ ago)
    I wonder if this are common problem in Camry? 3 replacement in 2 months doesn't reflect Toyota is a reliable car to me.
    Any comments or suggestions above?
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    The air-fuel sensor is the oxygen sensor.

    Something I like to know, is what codes did the OBDII computer spat out.
  • daveqdaveq Posts: 20
    Heated side mirror is standard on XLE
  • john345john345 Posts: 6
    I had a similar rattle around the stereo in my 2002 SE. It sounded to me like a loose wire or something similar. The dealer just removed the trim piece around the stereo, checked for anything loose, and reinstalled the trim. It hasn't rattled since. Around the doors, I don't know if this is what you're hearing but you might try a little silicone spray on the rubber weatherstripping around the door. I heard a little rubbing, creaking sound around the doors sometimes and using the spray fixed that problem.
  • AT it's oil change I'll have the dealer pop the trim, perhaps something is loose. The door rattle sounds about the something behind a piece of plastic vibrating....I'll try the silicon though...who knows....

    It's a shame and embarassing to have these cheapie noises in an otherwise finely crafted automobile.
  • jtan3jtan3 Posts: 6
    Hi 8u6hfd

    According to the description in my invoices:
    The code found were:
    1) P0136 - Oxygen Sensor Part# 8946506020
    2) P0171 - Air Fuel Sensor Part# 8946733011

    Are you sure Air-fuel is oxygen sensor?
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    The oxygen sensor (technical term is called the lambda sensor) in a nutshell, reads the air-fuel ratio of the exhaust gasses. If it is off from lambda 1, 14.6:1 tells the ECU to compensate to get it back to 14.6:1 as much as possible.
  • paul29paul29 Posts: 178
    indicates a lean mixture has been indicated due to an abnormally rich correction factor being applied to correct a condition on the right cylinder bank of your engine, thats all , (not a specific part ). The part they probably replaced on your Toyota would be the air flow sensor.
  • jtan3jtan3 Posts: 6
    Hi Paul

    Are you telling me the mechanic is fixing the wrong sensor??? What about P0136?
    Where can I find more information on those codes? I am afraid the dealer service center is not fixing my actual problem. That may be explained why I have sensors problem in two months.
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    PO136:Oxygen Sensor Circuit
    PO171:Lean Mixture
  • paul29paul29 Posts: 178
    Not at all.your mechanic has taken the codes from your computer and I assume tested the indicated parts and recommended the faulty ones be replaced. On Toyotas the P0136 indicates an open or short in a specific part , the oxygen sensor. P0171 indicates a condition , as before the only two sensors shown on this code among other things are the air flow sensor and the a/f sensor. There is a test for each of the above and I assume that is why it was replaced . With a set of factory manuals and a digital multimeter you could test the defective parts yourself if you retained them .The ecu would remain with the dealer as it was a warranty issue. The codes are in the factory manuals and also books at a local book store. Incidently the codes you were given are generic and apply to all OBD2 vehicles.
  • jtan3jtan3 Posts: 6
    Thanks very much to both of you 8u6hfd and Paul.
  • djsg143djsg143 Posts: 20
    I have a 2000 camry with 46k on it and have replaced the brake pads at 36k (resurfaced the rotors also). Nowadays when braking rather quickly (light changes on a 50 mph road) the steering wheel shakes like all hell. The stopping distance is excellent though and am wondering two things that I hope all you informed camry owners can help me with:

    1) Is is just the abs doing its thing in conjuction with these aftermarket pads?

    2) will my rotors warp?

    I ask the second question because there are times that I have very little braking force at low speeds, then the brakes "grab" and the car lurches slightly forward. I have learned to live with this, but would like to know if this is in fact a problem. Thanks

    Also thank you for this site ( This is by far the most informative site for autos. Everything else is propaganda and influenced marketing. For example Consumer Reports is a very sketchy magazine, so is Car and Driver.
  • paul29paul29 Posts: 178
    Get a new set of front rotors and pads (OEM if possible), have your calipers checked for a stuck piston/s and torque your wheel nuts to the specified value after putting wheels on (every time). Your ABS system has nothing to do with this problem as it is just bad (warped) rotors.The ABS only activates when there is a wheel speed variation on the application of the brakes. The lurching when stopping at slow speeds also indicates bad rotors but could also be the rear rotors or drums depending on what you have . The shaking steering wheel indicates the front end is the problem area at high speed
  • Hi. I've recently had to replace head gasket on my '97 Camry 4cyl with 52K miles. After the replacement, which Toyota refused to cover, the engine has a rough idle with revving of about 200RPM. At red light (brakes + transmission in D), car would feel like it's about to stall at the bottom of the rev.

    So my mechanic reset the computer and turned up the idle speed, which helped but the revving is still there, more slightly though. Once the car gets going, there are no problems and everything feels like before. For PM, I asked my mechanic to replace the timing belt and all the external belts. Unfortunately, he also replaced my spark plugs with non-platinum type.

    Can anybody help me out, please? Where should I ask him to check? Could it be a problem with the spark plugs?
  • We purchased a Camry 2002 XLE with the AM/FM/CD player with the CD changer. We like the car a lot with one exception.

    Since the car was new, we have experienced the radio (AM section only) intermittenly having the sound become distorted, with reduced sensitivity. Strong, local stations (all stations) gradually (over a period of a minute or two) become distorted to the point of becoming unintelligible. The condition lasts for about ten minutes, and usually occurs soon after the car is started.

    Problem is, the dealer cannot replicate this problem. Car has been in for warranty service several times; once we left it for two days. They replaced the radio but it did not fix the problem. I said at the outset that it sounded like an antenna problem to me. However, they seem unwilling to do anything more until we can bring it in with the radio malfunctioning. They claim to have verified that there is no break in the antenna wiring. But as I said, the problem is intermittent.

    Believe me, we have tried. But the radio seems to operate OK when at the dealer.

    Anyone have any suggestions as what is wrong / what to do?

    Thanks in advance for any help.
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    Have the mechanic replace the plugs (labor free as he did not replace with recommended plugs) and pay only the diff in plug cost, which is plenty by the way.
  • rtrudelrtrudel Posts: 1
    Just wondering if anyone has encountered a transmission failure due to differential fluid leaking into transmission? Back a month ago I had leaks from the transmission fixed and this was first time I had seen any kind of problem with the car. Car has 33372 miles. While on highway and going about 60 mph, I felt a drop in RPM followed by some noise. Immediately left highway and proceeded to dealership as I was not too far away. I could tell that if I lifted my foot off the gas that any noise would dissipate.

    This has left me with doubts on car. This is my third Camry since 1994. The other two were leases and had no trouble. This one is outright purchase. Wondering if I should make effort to obtain extended warranty insurance?
  • armtdmarmtdm Posts: 2,057
    On a Camry auto transmission the differential fluid and tranny fluid are both the ATF and probably mix at some point as well. So, I think you need to be more specific on the question
  • I took delivery of 2002 Camry SE 4-cyl. three weeks ago. It has noise at base of A pillars near dash that sounds like a wire banging around in the pillar. Dealer says it's noise emanating from the axle and traveling up to the dash. I say he's nuts. It's coming from the strut mounts -- clicks and cracks at that point when fender is bounced. I'm not going to let them replace the axles until they convince me that I'm wrong. Sometimes common sense is more valuable than an SAE designation.
  • I have a similar rattle in my 02 SE 4-cyl. Dealer wants to replace axle, but I KNOW the noise is coming from the strut mounts. With engine off and hood up, bouncing on the fender makes loud click on top of strut. I'm an accountant, but, c'mon, this ain't rocket science. Will let you know if I can convince dealer to test my idea first.
  • wainwain Posts: 479
    michael jay

    use a spray bottle or water hose on the outside parts to try to eliminate than as a source of the noise
  • 8u6hfd8u6hfd Posts: 1,391
    But then again some technicians aren't rocket scientists either.....
  • ralpiralpi Posts: 26
    '02 XLE/4 has rattle that is coming from passenger side, toward the rear (I have not been able to isolate it). Dealer originally ordered front upper strut mounts (told they were "upgraded" ones), but after leaving car they concluded it was only some lose rear suspension bolts, which they tightened. Unforunately, this was not the problem at all. Will be bringing back to dealer soon, but I do not think it is a front suspension noise. Seems to be coming more from middle/rear of car (exhaust?).
  • I have some experience with the problem you describe "transmission jerks or hesitates when I am going along at 40 or more MPH". Have been to the dealer, had the transmission recalibrated (whatever that is), with no improvement. My dealer says the same as yours - normal for the car. There is no recourse or solution available to you. You are stuck, as I am, with an unwanted defect that may be considered part of the intended design. There are lots of us with the same problem. Very annoying. This is my last Camry.
  • whaneywhaney Posts: 3
    I have an '88 Camry LE 4 cylinder with the following problem:

    (1) In the summer (especially humid days after a/c has been running), the car won't start after having been driven for say, 30 minutes or longer.
    (2) Interior lights, radio, everything else is fine.
    (3) After about 1 1/2 hours of being parked, the starter will once again start just fine.
    (4) I've had the starter, battery, alternator replaced. No joy.
    (5) In the late fall/winter, starter is never a problem.

    Any Ideas?
This discussion has been closed.