Thanks for the post. Do you know if the dealer got the fix from Toyota or they just figured it out themselves?
I was browsing alldata.com and there's one TSB for the 2003 Solara (TSB#PG027-02 DEC 02 Steering/Suspension - Ball Joint Inspection) that seems related but I'm not too sure. However, I couldn't find this particular TSB in NHTSA.
Its all temporary! I will follow up, but many of the people in this site are car dealers and finance people, steering their customers here to get them to buy their product. The pull will return!?!
The dealer drilled two damn holes in the front bumper to put the front license plate on. I'm going to take out the front license plate and wonder where I can find the covers for that two holes.
Toyota purchased my 2004 SE Sport Solara last week and I purchased a 2004 SLE Solara. Toyota said the problem is with the sport suspension, which seemed to be acurate since the 2nd car they tried to give me had the same drifting to the left problem. The SLE has very loose steering and seems to slightly drift to the left at speeds of >65 MPH. Other people with problems? Toyota national support still doesn't recognize this as a problem when you call, but I suspect that others are having similar problems. Any help or similar problems/experiences would be most welcome...thanks.
I have a 2001 Solara SE-V6 with the manual air conditioner. The light behind the fan and temp dial has recently gone out. It is more of an inconvenience at this point, but will probably get it fixed the at the next major service (60k). My question is if anyone else has had this problem and if so, is this a do it yourself type fix or is it one better left to the dealer? My main concern is how difficult it is to open up the center stack to access the A/C control panel, which I know can be a bear depending on the vehicle.
Also if you had this problem, is the fix as simple as changing out a light bulb or is it more involved (like changing out the A/C control panel). My recirculate button has been on the fritz as well, so a replacement of the panel may be in order anyway.
Turning / cutting the brake rotors is only a very temporary fix. The rotors warp because they are not big enough to disssipate the heat which builds up during usage. Cutting metal away will eliminate the shimmy, but it also makes them thinner, so they warp again, in even less time than before. The only correct fix is new rotors. The best fix would be bigger rotors, but that would require a new caliper and maybe a bigger wheel. If the aftermarket comes out with a big brake kit (e.g. Brembo), that would be the way to go, but the cost would be several thousand dollars. Perhaps Toyota makes bigger brakes which could be adapted. For example, the Lincoln Mark VIII brakes can be installed on the late 90's Thunderbirds if 16" wheels are used.
To anyone or everyone who has the shimmy problem, have I got a story for you. It is not you, actually it is the inferior parts used by Toyota for this car, Solara, and the Avalon, which I own.
For 16 months, I was back and forth to the dealership and to the corporation who threw it back to the local dealership everytime, who stated they met specs., and who measured them, and on and on.
Finally I got fed up, took it to someone else who put it on a lathe and one of the rotors (front) was warped badly. No I do not drive aggressively and it has been doing this since I got the car.
Bottom Line:
Do not get them cut. Do not replace them with genuine Toyota parts cause they are inferior. I replaced mine with Powerslot rotors and new pads and the shimmy was gone. Now they have lost a brake customer for life since I learned how to perform my own brake changes.
two months ago, I purchased a V6 LE from a local dealer after having test-driven several Camry's (2000, 2001, 2002, 2003) that same day. I was satisfied with my test drive and features on the car. one month later, after three long highway trips (3000 miles total), I noticed the transmission was not as silky smooth as I have heard the Camry is supposed to be. I also noticed this before the trips but was told it was symptomatic of the new engine and the vvti technology. I was expecting the buttery smooth and quiet of the earlier model Camry's. took the car back to dealer. bottom line, after describing the winding noise, noisy idle, and unresponsiveness, and slow acceleration, they replaced my transmission. now, about two weeks later, the transmission seems just as sluggish and unresponsive, especially in first gear going to second. I also hear noise (winding of the engine) in the cabin. I am very disappointed in this car and not sure what to do. the tranny "fix" has not produced a car that is silky smooth and responsive. advice? is the notice actually the exhaust or something else. I leave the car in park and put my head under the car and it sounds like noisy to me. the car seems to stay in first gear for too long and it seems the car is straining to get out. i am not a crazy driver and drive mostly on city streets to my job. dealer has been okay, but i wonder about the transmission work. they ordered a new one but it sounds the same.
I have a 1992 camry with automatic trans. With no warning signs, the car just quit backing up. All forward gears are fine. I've priced some used transmissions and they are real salty$$. Can there possibly be an easy fix to this problem? Any help will be appreciated.
I have a 97' LE with 70 K miles. At 50K, the engine would smoke at start up and my local dealer repaired the car under the 60 K drive train warranty. The service rep said the valve seals were cracked. Two years later, and out of warranty, I am having the same problem.
Other that causing some pollution, is this causing damage to the engine by not having this repaired? I was told the out of warranty repair is over $1,000, which I don't have right now.
Has anyone else experienced this problem with the 2.2 L engine?
my 2000 toyota solara has a brake light that stays on until i use yhe brakes a few times the car has a.b.s. and traction control i had the brakes inspected the report came back good the fluid is full any ideas ?
I just had the first oil change, in my 2003 Camry, and then noticed oil dripping on the driveway and in my garage. I talked to the Dealer's service manager and he said it was a poor toyota design causing this. He claims the old oil gets on the undercarriage and drips for a number of days. Has anyone else run into this situation after an oil change? Thanks
I have a 2002 Camry LE V6. I have read the threads on brake problems (chattering when braking from high speed)and have also experienced this problem. I found a TSB covered under warranty pertaining to this issue. It is TSB BR006-02. I have a copy of this TSB but it only pertains to the XLE and SE, not the LE. Can anyone tell me if the LE has the same brakes as the XLE and SE? Any advice as to how to pursue this issue? Also have the steering pulling problem (TSB ST003-01) and the steering wheel off center issue (TSB ST005R-01) trying to get copies of these TSBs. Many other issues with this car, air conditioner, new tires at 20,000 miles, rattles. Have bought many new cars over the years and this has been by far the worse. Have talked a number of people into re-thinking their decision to purchase a toyota product.
The LE V6 has smaller rotors compared to XLE and SE. Remember XLE and SE have 16" rims while LE has 15", that why the rotors are diferent. Most of the problems on 2002 had been rectified on 2003 models. Therefore the dealership should be able to fix the problems.
...just want to give everyone a heads up about some changes taking place in an effort to organize and make it easier for members to find the most appropriate discussion for their question/comment.
This discussion will soon be combined with the Toyota Camry Owners: Problems & Solutions, which resides in the Toyota Camry Owners Club. However, the combined topics will also appear here in M&R. If you are subscribed to this discussion, you will need to re-subscribe when the change takes place.
If you have any questions/concerns, please address them to me in email, karen@edmunds.com.
This is certainly one sweet machine. I can't understand how the engineers designed this and ignored the visability of the readouts - especially on a sunny day. Am I the only one who has to strain to read these - in certain light conditions?
My clock, dome light, remote keyless entry on my 2000 Camry XLE stopped working because the fuse blew out. So, I replaced it and checked everything and they were fine. But 10 mins. after starting the engine, it blew out again. Can you tell me if there's any self-inspection that I can do before taking it to the dealer?
My elderly relative has 91 camry v-6 auto. On Sunday, she was driving and the fuel was low, so the "empty" light came on. She fueled the car, but now she says the gauge points at "Full", but the light is still on. I suggested that maybe she didn't cap the tank tightly, and she tightened it. What could be wrong and how to cure it? Tx!
Loose gas cap could cause "check engine" light to come on, not the the gas "empty" light which I think is totally independent of any other controls. Could it be the bad sensor in the gas tank? I never touched that thing just a guess. Unsally when bottom part of back seats are removed, it can be found.
The interior light in my 1996 Camry LE stopped working. I am trying to find a way open the interior light fixture so I can replace the bulb - I tried prying open the lens using a screwdriver but it would not budge - Help me! Thanks.
I own a 03, Camry V6 XLE which I had bought one and a half months ago. This is my 3rd camry and unfortunately a lot of dissapointment. The car has gone to the dealer SEVEN times for RATTLES. These rattles have come from A pillars, B pillars and dashboard area. It seems that the rattles are more profound and constantly changing with the cold weather. Said that I have a question? I know that most of us are not attorneys but wonder if some body can answer/advise or have a better insight than myself. So the question is: Can I go for arbitration process to get the car changed or get my money back? In wisconsin where I am from the Lemon Law states that the car needs more than 4 failed tries to fix a single problem or need to be at the dealer for 30 days (not consecutive) in a one year period before it can be called a lemon. Any suggestions would be greately appreciated. Thanks. HK
Wish you had seen therattles forum before you made your purchase...not sure on thelemon law but I doubt it....still I'd pursue it....never know...it seems the only way Toyota addresses these things is with bad press.....good luck.
PS: read thru the rattles forum...a scant few of the rattles actually do have solutions...the best solution so far is to turn up the radio....
I am on my 2nd 2004 Camry Solara - SE Sport (1st) and SLE (2nd). I had a difinitive pull on the sport and the SLE steering is 'light', although it drifts very dramatically to the left. After going to the dealership a few times and 37 days in a rental car between the 1st car that they bought back and this one, Toyota's customer care line verified what the dealership finally told me...that the Solara '04 has a drifting/pulling problem. The dealership said that they are being manufactured differently and engineers are looking for a fix for the ones that were purchased in the first few months, which will "hopefully" be available in 6-8 months.
Toyota Customer service (800-331-4331) reported that they hope to get the TSA out shortly but may be delayed because of the holidays. I am going to try and get Toyota to buy back my 2nd toyota solara 2004, which will probably not be easy. I am interested in finding out if other people have contacted Toyota in an effort to get additional answers for the pulling/drifting issues and what the responses have been. I find it very frusrating that a $27,000 car won't drive straight at highway speeds for more than 50 feet, yet the car is "within specs". Thanks to those who responded to my prior post and I would appreciate any additional feedback or direct emails on the issue...
Andrelaplume, Thanks for your advise. Surprisingly my wife told me the same thing as you did, that is to turn the radio up to mask the frustrating and annoying rattles getting into my ears. I am now in the process of pursuing lemon law rights and if possible, challenge the adequacy and the extent of coverage provided by the law. I realize that its an uphill battle but I think its worth the try to recoupe my hard earned money! Will keep you posted, thanks again, hk
We have had our 04 SLE for a month and couldn't be happier. Car is quiet and tight. So far there is no pulling what so ever at any speed. Did the dealer supply good tires that have been trued? We have Mich. mxv4 plus that give a very comfortable ride.
Toyota repurchased your 1st 04 Solara because of the pulling? So they did admit there's a pulling issue? But when you get your 2nd Solara, didn't you test drive it to make sure it's not pulling before taking possession? Which State are you located in?
I recently hit a curb and the car now seems pulling to the right. Prior to that, it drifts to either direction because the steering is too light. But I'll take it in to balance the alignment first before I do anything.
I OWN 03 TOYOTA CAMRY XLE 4 CYL.10000 MILES.NO PROBLEMS SO FAR.ALSO HAVE HONDA ACCORD TOP OF THE LINE WHICH IS NOTHING BUT PC OF [non-permissible content removed].ALSO HAVE VOLKSVAGEN PASSAT GLS 4 CYL TURBO WHICH IS MUCH BETTER THAN CAMRY FOR SAME MONEY. TOM.
I noticed there might be something wrong with the air control system. Seems like the car won't remember the previous settings. A lot of times when I start the car, all the settings are different. This evening, when I was driving, I have the re-circulate in the off mode (sucking air from outside). I then opened the sunroof, the next thing I noticed is the re-circulate is in the on mode. That sure does kinda pissed me off. Anyone else experienced this same problem?
I just purchased an '04 Camry XLS and was told that it had auto headlights (on at dark/off when light). It doesn't have them and now the dealer says that it isn't offered in any '04 Camry, only '03 and earlier. Is this correct? Can't find any info on any website that says it's an option. Anyone have an '04 w/auto headlights?
We have a (late) '03 LE V6 and NO auto headlights. The only thing auto is if you leave the lights on when you shut off the car, they will go out in 30 seconds and come on when you re-start the car.
I have auto lights in my Oldsmobile. Sometimes they're TOO "touchy" like when sitting at a light under an overpass on a sunny day, they'll come on. There's no override for the system, either.
I drive a 2003 Camry XLE V6, 3000 miles, 5 spd auto tranny, have had several problems with the airbag warning light that they can't figure out. It's been in the shop for 2 weeks and they gave me a 2003 Avalon XL, 9000 miles, 4 spd tranny, as a loaner. I've always thought that the acceleration and gear shifting on my Camry was rather choppy with a lot of hesitancy. Not as responsive as I was expecting but not significant enough that I would expect the dealership to find anything wrong. Anyway, I've been driving the Avalon and have noticed it's a much smoother acceleration with much more responsiveness. It doesn't seem to have the "gimme a second" feel my Camry does when I gun it. I thought the engine, horsepower, torque, etc. was the same in the two cars. The only difference being the older 4 spd tranny in the Avalon and a small weight difference. Anyone have some insight on this? Does Toyota tune the cars differently electronically? Perhaps the mileage difference plays a roll. Or do I have an electrical control problem that extends beyond the airbags? Any thoughts? Thanks.
I believe the reason why you get that "gimme a second", is due to the "drive by wire" that is in the Camrys. Next the first generation 5-speed Auto's were not the best trannys, this is why for the 04 models Toyota and Lexus has replaced it with a newly design tranny for both the ES330 and V6 Camrys. Secondly, from my research if your vehicle only has 3000 miles on it I believe the computer prevents you from "gunning" the vehicle. From my past experience the engines really are not broken in until approx. 10,000 miles in which performance, MPG, braking, etc. will be better. What I would do is wait untill 5000 miles, reset the vehicles computer and see if it makes a difference. This new "drive-by-wire" "learns" the way you drive and adapts to the driver's normall acceleration, etc. Alpha01, have you heard of this type of issue?
Thanks for the info. I'll wait and see and keep my fingers crossed. I noticed on the Lexus ES300 posts that many people are complaining about the same problem. Anyway, can I reset the computer myself or will the dealer need to do that? What does the reset accomplish?
Just disconnect the Red(hot) battery lead and allow about a few minutes (approx. 2 minutes). While the lead is disconnected try turning on lights, blow horn just to drain whatever little of electricity may be in the circuits. Then resecure red lead back onto battery. Then start vehicle, adjust clock, radio, etc. because the memories from these items will be erased. The fuel mixture will be changed, the car will attempt to readjust itself, fuel from exhaust will smell different. You may see better gas mileage, drive the car normally, see if this helps. Let us know the results.
My 2003 Camry SE has many rattles in dash. Took it to two dealters. Told problem couldn't be fixed. Took car to my mechanic. He removed dash and tightened some screws. No more rattles but it cost me $250.00. My next thing is to replace the lousy suspension sp car no longer bounces when going over bumps. Then I will have one great car!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!!
My '04 Camry had a strange buzz from the stereo that I noticed the day after I bought it. The sound was like an old fashioned door bell. It happened when I had the radio or CD on and came through all the speakers. After driving around with the service department manager and trying to figure out what it was we realized it was my cell phone causing interference. Apparently when it is not in use it will still send out a signal every 15 minutes or so. Hopefully this helps someone else who is trying to figure out this problem.
Thats the most funniest thing I have heard for today. You made my day. Also, those who have the Nextel two-way-radios, these devices also cause worse inteference with electronics than normal cell phones. Man, for a moment I thought Toyota's rattles and squeaks were coming back for the 04 models.
I recently bought a used 2002 Camry that runs great except that it always pulls to the right. I took it in to be aligned and the tech there is NO adjustment available for camber or caster on the current Camry.
1. Is this true? Some people say there is, and other say no. What is the "correct answer" ?
Road crown is not the cause, because the pull is much more significant. The car doesn't seem to have been in an accident, and I trust the previous owner.
The alignment printout shows that the rear cross camber is -0.3 degrees.
2. Can the rear wheels have a significant impact on pulling, and if so, would the effect be the opposite from the front?
I've tried rotating the front tires from side to side and that didn't help. I haven't tried the rear tires.
3. If this doesn't work, are there any other adjustments or aftermarket fixes that can be applied, such as camber kits ?
Thanks a lot for your help. This is an excellent car, and I'd just love to solve this annoying problem.
Did the previous owner have the same problem? If so, what did he/she do to have it resolved besides selling the car to you in that condition. The adjustments for the alignment can be made by adjusting the struts, tie rod ends, etc. I cannot believe that there are no adjustments avialable. Take it into a qualified Toyota dealership, they may also include a warranty, (30 days I believe). Unless there was a sever accident and it was not disclosed to you. Usually with sever accidents the frame gets damaged, it may never be perfect, but they attempt to get it close to specs if they are a qualified repair shop. The dealership may also be able to tell you if the vehicle was ever in an accident. GOOD LUCK
On your 2002 Camry , the front toe in and the camber can be adjusted ( camber is adjusted by loosening the bottom bolts/nuts on the shock absorber/knuckle) , if this does not give enough adj then there are 3 additional sizes of bolts available from Toyota for a larger range of adj . On the rear , just the toe in is adj. Aftermarket cam type bolts may be available for rear camber adj though. Your Toyota dealer should know this ?
I have a 2002 Camry SE V6 that seems to have brake problems. The car has 20k miles. At 12 k all the rotors had to be cut due to warpage. My latest problem is that when I brake I hear a terrible grinding noise that appear to come from the right front of car. Sometimes the brake pedal and steering wheel will vibrate/pulse while hearing this noise. The problem only happens when brake pedal is pressed all the way down and is especially noticeable when engine is cold but I will notice at anytime. Dealer checked brakes/rotors said everything ok. 75 percent brake pad remains. Dealer said cause of problem was normal glaze on rotors? Dealer could not replicate problem. Anyone else having problem?
I have a 97 LE which began smoking at start up a few months ago....I bought a can of Techron fuel additive a few weeks ago and the smoke has disappeared completely!!
Comments
I was browsing alldata.com and there's one TSB for the 2003 Solara (TSB#PG027-02 DEC 02 Steering/Suspension - Ball Joint Inspection) that seems related but I'm not too sure. However, I couldn't find this particular TSB in NHTSA.
jim
jim@beantowntickets.com
Also if you had this problem, is the fix as simple as changing out a light bulb or is it more involved (like changing out the A/C control panel). My recirculate button has been on the fritz as well, so a replacement of the panel may be in order anyway.
For 16 months, I was back and forth to the dealership and to the corporation who threw it back to the local dealership everytime, who stated they met specs., and who measured them, and on and on.
Finally I got fed up, took it to someone else who put it on a lathe and one of the rotors (front) was warped badly. No I do not drive aggressively and it has been doing this since I got the car.
Bottom Line:
Do not get them cut. Do not replace them with genuine Toyota parts cause they are inferior. I replaced mine with Powerslot rotors and new pads and the shimmy was gone. Now they have lost a brake customer for life since I learned how to perform my own brake changes.
A.Fisch
Other that causing some pollution, is this causing damage to the engine by not having this repaired? I was told the out of warranty repair is over $1,000, which I don't have right now.
Has anyone else experienced this problem with the 2.2 L engine?
It was more likely the person changed your oild filter improperly. That caused over spilled in your engine bay
This discussion will soon be combined with the Toyota Camry Owners: Problems & Solutions, which resides in the Toyota Camry Owners Club. However, the combined topics will also appear here in M&R. If you are subscribed to this discussion, you will need to re-subscribe when the change takes place.
If you have any questions/concerns, please address them to me in email, karen@edmunds.com.
In wisconsin where I am from the Lemon Law states that the car needs more than 4 failed tries to fix a single problem or need to be at the dealer for 30 days (not consecutive) in a one year period before it can be called a lemon.
Any suggestions would be greately appreciated. Thanks. HK
PS: read thru the rattles forum...a scant few of the rattles actually do have solutions...the best solution so far is to turn up the radio....
I am on my 2nd 2004 Camry Solara - SE Sport (1st) and SLE (2nd). I had a difinitive pull on the sport and the SLE steering is 'light', although it drifts very dramatically to the left. After going to the dealership a few times and 37 days in a rental car between the 1st car that they bought back and this one, Toyota's customer care line verified what the dealership finally told me...that the Solara '04 has a drifting/pulling problem. The dealership said that they are being manufactured differently and engineers are looking for a fix for the ones that were purchased in the first few months, which will "hopefully" be available in 6-8 months.
Toyota Customer service (800-331-4331) reported that they hope to get the TSA out shortly but may be delayed because of the holidays. I am going to try and get Toyota to buy back my 2nd toyota solara 2004, which will probably not be easy. I am interested in finding out if other people have contacted Toyota in an effort to get additional answers for the pulling/drifting issues and what the responses have been. I find it very frusrating that a $27,000 car won't drive straight at highway speeds for more than 50 feet, yet the car is "within specs". Thanks to those who responded to my prior post and I would appreciate any additional feedback or direct emails on the issue...
jim
jim@beantowntickets.com
I am now in the process of pursuing lemon law rights and if possible, challenge the adequacy and the extent of coverage provided by the law. I realize that its an uphill battle but I think its worth the try to recoupe my hard earned money!
Will keep you posted, thanks again, hk
I recently hit a curb and the car now seems pulling to the right. Prior to that, it drifts to either direction because the steering is too light. But I'll take it in to balance the alignment first before I do anything.
TOM.
I have auto lights in my Oldsmobile. Sometimes they're TOO "touchy" like when sitting at a light under an overpass on a sunny day, they'll come on. There's no override for the system, either.
I believe the reason why you get that "gimme a second", is due to the "drive by wire" that is in the Camrys. Next the first generation 5-speed Auto's were not the best trannys, this is why for the 04 models Toyota and Lexus has replaced it with a newly design tranny for both the ES330 and V6 Camrys. Secondly, from my research if your vehicle only has 3000 miles on it I believe the computer prevents you from "gunning" the vehicle. From my past experience the engines really are not broken in until approx. 10,000 miles in which performance, MPG, braking, etc. will be better. What I would do is wait untill 5000 miles, reset the vehicles computer and see if it makes a difference. This new "drive-by-wire" "learns" the way you drive and adapts to the driver's normall acceleration, etc. Alpha01, have you heard of this type of issue?
Just disconnect the Red(hot) battery lead and allow about a few minutes (approx. 2 minutes). While the lead is disconnected try turning on lights, blow horn just to drain whatever little of electricity may be in the circuits. Then resecure red lead back onto battery. Then start vehicle, adjust clock, radio, etc. because the memories from these items will be erased. The fuel mixture will be changed, the car will attempt to readjust itself, fuel from exhaust will smell different. You may see better gas mileage, drive the car normally, see if this helps. Let us know the results.
Thats the most funniest thing I have heard for today. You made my day. Also, those who have the Nextel two-way-radios, these devices also cause worse inteference with electronics than normal cell phones. Man, for a moment I thought Toyota's rattles and squeaks were coming back for the 04 models.
1. Is this true? Some people say there is, and other say no. What is the "correct answer" ?
Road crown is not the cause, because the pull is much more significant. The car doesn't seem to have been in an accident, and I trust the previous owner.
The alignment printout shows that the rear cross camber is -0.3 degrees.
2. Can the rear wheels have a significant impact on pulling, and if so, would the effect be the opposite from the front?
I've tried rotating the front tires from side to side and that didn't help. I haven't tried the rear tires.
3. If this doesn't work, are there any other adjustments or aftermarket fixes that can be applied, such as camber kits ?
Thanks a lot for your help. This is an excellent car, and I'd just love to solve this annoying problem.
Sri
Did the previous owner have the same problem? If so, what did he/she do to have it resolved besides selling the car to you in that condition. The adjustments for the alignment can be made by adjusting the struts, tie rod ends, etc. I cannot believe that there are no adjustments avialable. Take it into a qualified Toyota dealership, they may also include a warranty, (30 days I believe). Unless there was a sever accident and it was not disclosed to you. Usually with sever accidents the frame gets damaged, it may never be perfect, but they attempt to get it close to specs if they are a qualified repair shop. The dealership may also be able to tell you if the vehicle was ever in an accident. GOOD LUCK