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I actually got the Toyota Customer Service folks involved and now it is all the way at the top. I have filed a case with the NCDS, National Center for Dispute Settlement. I have 2 options for arbitration, I can have oral hearing or a documents only hearing. I have elected the documents only hearing, and they told me I can use any supporting information I can find, whether it be on-line or from my own experience with the problems encountered. They have a 40 day deadline for a decision. If anybody else is experiencing the pulling left issue with their '04 Solara, please share it with us. I'll provide all I have.
Geneve72, I bought a 2004 Camry two weeks ago. It did the same thing. I took it back and the dealer balanced the tires and did a four wheel alignment, all under warranty. It is fine now. Take your's back to the dealer.
Bought 2003 Camry XLE, 4 cyl., Mar.2003. In July went to start car and it was dead. The battery was replaced. In Jan. '04 car again failed to start one morning. Alternator replaced. The next morning car was dead again. This time dealer said battery and alternator testing as faulty. In addition, dealer said they discovered power seat switch on driver's side was sticking and draining battery. That switch had to be ordered. I took car, was to return it when switch came in. The car was driven one day with no problem. The following evening (a Sunday) it was dead. The next day (Monday) the car was returned to dealer. Switch came in Tuesday and installed in the car. I was told to come and pick up the car, that it was running fine. Got to the dealer's and the thing was dead again. Anyone else had this problem or know of a possible solution? This is driving us nuts!!!
The Toyota sludge program applies to 1997 - 2001 for the 4 cylinder engine and 1997 - 2002 for V-6 engine in the Camry's and several other models. Toyota has an unlimited mileage, 8 year policy to repair any sludge problems in these two engines. You may want to check with Toyota to ensure that this applies to used cars and also find out what sort of maintenance information you would need to provide to get covered should your engine sludge. Are you going to have to produce all of the previous owner's oil change receipts?
With 180,000 miles. Other than the timing belt and water pump, what should I replace or keep my eye on? It starts and runs fine except for a vibraion at idle (it doesn't miss or idle at a high rpm...it just vibrates more than normal). Any help is appreciated. Thanks!!
This is an odd one. I was going back to college after my winter brake and when I came up to a stop light I hit the brakes the car pulled hard to the left (nearly into the other lane), the pedal went almost to the floor and the car took a little longer than usual to stop. So I pulled over and checked the fluid and such. After pumping the brake pedal pressure returned so I decided to give it another shot. After that the brakes operated normally except for a slightly more "spongy" feeling to the pedal. Any ideas on what is wrong or what I need replaced or was this just a fluke incident?
I would have someone check out the entire brake system to rule out any problems that could return and cause an accident. Could be the vacuum line to the booster is leaking.
I had a master cylinder go out on me once (1977 Chrysler New Yorker - my favorite barge!) and it was like having no power assist. Had it replaced and no problem.
Given the age of the car and the symptom, the most likely cause is a defective master cylinder seal. That'll cause the low pedal and the pull to one side. It has a diagonal split hydraulic saystem like most all fwd cars, and if one circuit fails there's one front brake and the opposite rear brake working.
But the brakes still work the pedal has a little more freeplay and that's it after the one time that it pulled and the pedal went to the floor. Plus it has lost no brake fluid.
I read in the owners manual that you should not leave the parking brake on in cold weather and that's what I was doing (until I read that) could that have something to do with it?
I have an '01 Camry LE 2.2L with AT. When driving through heavy rain conditions +/or unexpected standing water, I suddenly hear a bizarre howling/roaring sound, and feel a very heavy vibration. I pull off immediately and wait about 3 to 5 minutes, after which time the problem resolves, and I can resume driving. (I don't turn engine off...) The RPM doesn't drop. The dealer mechanic said it might be the Traction Control system?! However, I don't think my car even has Traction Control. Anybody out there familiar with this problem, and who the culprit is; and what the solution is? Thanks!, tcjon
Just bought a used camry with 22,000 on it, about a week later the check engine light came on, took it to the dealer and they said the oxygen sensor needs to be replaced, and if that didnt work then they said its the cat converter. my question is what would cause a censor to go out with only 22,000 miles.
with 1500 miles and two weeks of ownership when the oxygen sensors went out and the check engine light came on. Took it to the dealer, shut it off, went to the service rep. They said they couldn't look at it that late in the day, to come back the next day. I got in the car and started the engine, no check engine light. I told them about it, and they told me it must have been a loose gas cap. I said I still was coming back the next morning and have them check it out. I did and they said the codes were clear so it must have been a loose gas cap. OK, maybe I messed it up, so I left. The next day was fine, but the day after while driving on the Interstate the check engine light came on again. I went straight to the dealer, but this time I didn't shut off the engine. They put it on the computer and found the oxygen sensor was "weak." Sometimes working, sometimes not. They didn't have a replacement part, although I would have thought they could have taken the sensor off another new Camry. Anyway, I'm waiting on them to call to let me know when the part comes in. The rest of the car is performing flawlessly, although the third day of ownership I had them balance the tires and align the car because the steering wheel shook and it drifted to the right on a level surface. I'm still happy with the purchase, but little things like this take some of the luster off.
Well, I am told it is time to change the Pollen FIlter. $30 parts, $30 labor. My question is: Does this really need to be changed at 15K miles and is this a job I can do myself? Where is the sucker located? Can it be cleaned? THANKS!
Just wanted to give you a heads-up. We recently bought a 2004 Camry XLE V6 with adjustable pedals. There is a constant drive train vibration coming through the accelerator pedal when accelerating under load up hills or when maintaining speed on the highway. The vibration can be a distraction and a big nuisance--especially given the fact that everything else about the Camry is very quiet, smooth and vibration-free. We test drove a 2004 LE V6 and a 2003 XLE 4 cylinder, both without adjustable pedals, and there was no vibration problem. A dealer's service department said that the vibration occurs because the accelerator and brake pedals are not solidly secured to the the firewall like cars without adjustable pedals. Instead, they are somehow suspended and connected to an area that picks up the drive train vibration under load. The dealer has received several complaints and forwarded them to Toyota Corp. As of yet, Toyota Corp. has not issued any service bulletins with a fix.
I just found out traces of oil inside the spark plug tube. I also have a manufacture camry owner shop manual but it doesn't tell you how to remove the spark plug tubes. Do I unscrew the spark plug tubes? Is there a special type of epoxy around the thread? The engine of my car is a 3S-FE (4 Cylinder) LE model type. Any suggestion? Thanks in advanced.
Just got back from the dealer, my 2003 camry will be going back again for a new cat converter. they replaced a oxygen censor, and said they still had a code, the cat needs replaced.I asked what would cause this , they said it was the oxygen censor that caused the cat to malfunction.I dont really understand why , but hopefully this will be the end of the problems,i'm a believer in toyota but crickies only 22,000 miles.I also had them check the brakes because the pedal seems to go down to far. They said their was a build up of brake dust and they cleaned it and it should feel better.It does stop better now but the pedal still feels like it goes to far down.
After checking the check engine code, #55, it was found that there was a problem with the NOX sensor. The mechanic said this would require removal of the intake manifold. $250 just for the labor to do that. Called dealer and they said this replacement would run $440, kind of verifying what the local mechanic said.
Yikes!
Is this important, or can I let it go until I notice a problem or change in performance? I have no symptoms of a problem. Thanks!
That's a knock sensor, used by the engine controller to detect detonation and retard ignition timing as required. A failed knock sensor could result in internal engine damage. NOx is oxides of nitrogen, an emission gas.
I need some advice on the best way to stabalize the ride in my 95 camry. The rear end feels shakey. And close to bottoming out. On a smooth highway it's fine. So I'm gussing shocks and struts. But I am not sure. Any help would be appreciated.
Does anyone notice the sound of the new Camrys exhaust. Sounds loud to me like a low growl noise. Drove two 4 cylinder 2004 Camrys and both sounded same. Dealer said normal for that 4 cylinder engine.Any ideas why. Thanks Ray
Both drivers and passenger power door lock switches don't work. Locks operate fine when using the door key. Checked both fuses and I know that the door lock actuators are working properly. Is there a relay that is common to both door lock switches?
Please see my message #1955 and another owner's message 1553 (front suspension rattles). With some speculation we purchased and installed aftermarket upper front strut mounts and bearings in our '99 Camry LE, 104,000 miles. Took care of the problem completely. Toyota stated it was probably the upper strut mounts (proved true!) and Toyota has superceded the factory original part with one a bit heavier. Others speculated we had worn bushings in "A" frames and/or control arms.
I have a 2003 Camry LE V6. I also notice a low humming/vibrating/growl from the exhaust especially when at 1500-1900 rpm and when going up small grades. There is also a noticeable low rumble from the muffler when I turn the car off. After having my transmission replaced at only 4K of highway driving and having my ECU adjusted twice, I have been very unhappy with my Camry, which I think of now as an old Corolla or old Toyota pickup. I continue to read posts about the quiet, luxurious ride but have yet to experience it. My only question is "quiet" relative to what? I have repeated my noise/engine/exhaust concerns to my dealer and district service manager only to be told it is "normal." Every time I drive, I think I am missing something especially when trying accelerate from a stop, only to be passed up by Honda Civics, delivery trucks, etc that all seem to have better acceleration and engine response. I, on the other hand, have to listen to engine noise until I get up to a decent speed. The humming and engine noise cannot be normal, given all these comments about how quiet Camry's are supposed to be. How can I distinguish noise from "normal?" I am tired of complaining to dealer but more tired of driving a car that is not as advertised or touted. When people say "quiet," I now wonder what that means.
Enjoying this great weather in Upstate NY. I have a 91 Camry. The muffler is in bad shape according to the mechanic at the Muffler shop. He quoted me a rate of 128.80 for parts and $44 for labor. I wonder if this is a good rate. But the only bad is this was from Monroe Muffler/brake Shop. Has anybody experience bad service from those type of shops??
In our area the Toyota dealer's use OEM mufflers and pipes with lifetime guarantee on muffler from Toyota. Their price installed was cheaper than Midas or Sears . Also on Toyota's muffler the exhaust pipe (between the cat and muffler) was attached to the muffler so was also guaranteed for life ( this was on a 4 Runner ). The same pipe at Midas was separate so only had a one year warranty. Don't know if Toyota is same where you are , but it would pay to check .
Does anyone know how to program remote fob for 96 Camry? I just bought a used one on E-bay, and would like to know how to make it work.
I have a 96 Camry XLE V-6 that I bought four years ago that the previous owner said the car did not have the remote lock. The car has everything but remote. I doubt that it did not come with one. My guess is that she lost the remote as the car had only one metal key.
On my 2004 Camry LE-4 this morning, I could not shift the transmission gear from the "park" to the "drive" position. I removed the little cover on the console to press the over-ride/bypass switch and it fixed the problem.
Has anyone else experienced this problem ? What could cause this type of problem ? Should I bring the car into the dealer for service ?
I wasn't sure if the very cold weather in my area may be related to the problem, but the car seems to run OK now.
A few months back I took my 97 V6 Camry (which I bought new in 97) in for an oil change. Used local Toyota Service. Got the car back leaking oil. Returned to Toyota and was told not the drain plug but a bad head gasket. Odd at 45K miles I thought. No, normal the mechanic says. Good news they said - just the front gasket and would only cost $150 to replace. Got car back next day still leaking oil. Spoke with service manager, bring it back in we’ll see what we can do. At this point I decide to just wait - I can’t afford these days without the car, inconvenience of going to the dealer again and I am losing confidence. I research in the meantime and see Toyota has a TSB on this problem. --- Component Description: 3. ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:ENGINE
NHTSA Number: 351496
Bulletin Number: TC02001
Bulletin Date: JAN 2002
Vehicle: 1997 Toyota Camry
Summary: LIMITED SERVICE CAMPAIGN X01 INVOLVING REPLACEMENT OF THE 5VZ-FE V6 ENGINE CYLINDER HEAD GASKET. *TT
---
Wondering if anyone here has had a similar problem. Also, how do you recommend I go about getting the problem solved? Finally, are costs of this repair covered by this TSB?
Again, I am not overly confident in my local Toyota service department - but I' getting tired of cleaning up oil spots...
I notice the low growl type resonator sound coming from my Camry when giving it the gas. I checked for exhaust leaks all thru the system. All seems ok. It seems to be coming from area back of engine where exhaust pipe connects system. Has anyone else experienced this.
Thanks for your post. I believe I have the same problem on my 96. I do whatever work on the car I can myself but I'm no pro - is this a do it yourself job or would a mechanic have to do it? Also, what was the cost for the parts and labor per strut? Thanks in advance.
Anyone else whose Camry is parked outdoors (ie not garage kept) get a squeeling or rubbing noise from the steering wheel when turning it in very cold weather? The noise sounds like it is up front in the steering wheel, like something rubbing?
My 2002 Camry XLE developed a similar problem in the steering column. When I brought it to the dealer's attention they were familiar with the problem already. Lubrication seems to have fixed it...still ok after 3 months.
gymswim, Thanks, it figures I was just in for an oil change and forgot to mention it, on the plus side (I guess) I must go back for some rattle repairs so they can lube it then.
Rattles, Good news, bad news. Most rattle sufferers likley already know about the 2002/03 cowl issue. Well it seams there is now a replacement cowl part. My dealer just ordered me the part. The bad news is that the tech told me they had good luck just adding some tape under the original 02 cowl. It lasted me 6 months before the rattels, pops and vibrations returned. I was optomistic a major Camry nuisance would be remedied by this new part, the tech did not seem that enthusiaatic.
As far as the buzz/vibration that creeps up more than not in the radio area (the one quieted by pushing down on the little shelf above the radio), I asked that they insulate around the radio. They called me back and said they were ordering me a radio 'bezel' to replace an existing plastic one that tends to warp in Camry's. When I get the actual part numbers I will post them. Again, trying to be optimistic, if these 2 parts end these two rattles I will feel as if I am in a new car all over again. I'll keep the rattles forum posted. If you suffer these affilctions keep an eye out over the next few weeks.
Finally, I must say we are getting our share of snow, ice, slush, sleet and rain the past few months here in PA. My new Goodrich Traction TAs have made a hell of a difference in the performance of the Camry in these conditions.
I was sailing along fine and the Engine light comes on (52,000miles). Dealer says injectors and plugs fouled. $400. The dealer is very well respected in the area, so I don't suspect them. But I was shocked to have that problem. Are they THAT sensitive to the fuel quality? My Chevrolet went 120k on plugs no problem. Anybody else have that problem?
Also, rear brakes constantly glaze. I think that may be an issue with rear drums on some vehicles that sleep outside.
It's a 2001. They're supposed to be changed at 60k. The dealership said they're seeing that more often around here (Houston) apparently due to a lot of gummy gas being sold. Haven't experienced problems with the other vehicles. Good running and well-built car, just a little shocked over having to spend that much so early. I maintain the vehicle myself very meticulously. However, since I don't have the dealership do the servicing, Toyota basically gave me a lecture on that.
Please don't laugh but here is the procedure for programming the key fobs for 2002-2004 Camry's:
1. Driver door open and unlocked. Key out of the ignition 2. Insert the key and remove 2 times in 5 sec. 3. Close and open driver door 2 times in 40 sec. 4. Insert the key and remove it again from ignition. 5. Close and open driver door 2 times in 40 sec. 6. Insert the key in ignition, 7. Close the door, 8. Turn to on and back to lock in 1 second intervals. 1 time for add, 2 times for rewrite, 3 for confirmation 5 for prohibition. (yes, there is no “4”) 9. Remove the key 10. Power lock will cycle to confirm 11. For add or rewrite mode within 40 sec of the confirmation, A. press “lock” and “unlock” buttons of the FOB at the same time between 1 and 1.5 seconds. B. within 3 sec press “Lock” button for more than 1 sec and release. C. If it’s correct, the power door lock will cycle once. If it’s wrong the door lock will cycle twice.
I am curious, during your 'lecture' what would they have done to prevent this that your local garage did not do? You might want to get the zone office out too...sound fishy, I can see changing the plugs...but fouled injectors?
The Air Bag Light on my 91 Camry Stays on. It comes on as soon as the key is in the "accessory" position. I replaced the Spiral Wound Assembly (Clockspring) and it still comes on and stays on. Is there some kind of reset on the 91?
I have a 1992 Camry LE (4-cyl). The other day, I slowed down to let the person in front of me make a left turn, and when I attempted to accelerate back up to speed, my car gradually lost power and coasted to a complete stop. I tried to restart the car, but it would not fully kick over. I checked all of the fuses, fuel pump, made sure it was getting compression, changed the spark plugs, and tried changing out the ignition module, nothing is working. The bottom of the old plugs were coated in oil, and not more than 5 months ago, I had the valve cover gasket and plug rings replaced. (this will make it the 5th time in a year's time..makes me wonder if there is something more wrong with this particular model) This has been the tip of the iceberg with me as far as this car is concerned. The extent of my problems are: an annoying vibration on the left front side, which I have been told is the carrier bearing (was replaced for $500 and is worse now than it was when I had it fixed, broken driver's outside door handle, had to replace both of the driver's side window motors, etc. and the continuing problem with the valve cover gasket. I am leaning towards there being a problem with the distributor or some innerworkings of it since when new plugs were tested, there was no spark. Curious if anyone else has had a similar problem..I am sure it is something very simple.. quoting Judge Judy,"make it simple stupid.."
You did not mention sparkplug cables. My 1989 4-cyl Camry usually requires new cables about every 60-70k miles. I have the stupid integrated distributor cap/wire set which requires replacing the whole assembly even if only one wire is bad.The engine will usually give a warning by running rougher than normal(may be hard to tell for some in a high mileage Camry)and lacking power.
As far as I can tell, the wires themselves are (thankfully) separate from the cap, and I see what you are getting at considering the amount of oil on the old plugs and how the wires create a vaccuum of sorts (oil more than likely corroded the metal connections in the wire. The strangest part of what actually happened when my car quit on me was what warning light came on right before it died...the "rear light failure warning light" I checked all of the bulbs and they all seem to be working properly. I fail to see how them going out would affect the car, but I have heard of stranger things...
I recently purchased an '04 Camry. The car drifts slightly to the left. It appears that others have the same problem. I am scheduled to have the alignment checked at the dealer but I am not optimistic. I contacted Toyota customer assistance at 1-800-331-4331. The representative advised that if enough complaints were posted, the engineers would try to figure out a solution. Give them a call if you are experiencing other than neutral tracking.
Comments
I bought a 2004 Camry two weeks ago. It did the same thing. I took it back and the dealer balanced the tires and did a four wheel alignment, all under warranty. It is fine now. Take your's back to the dealer.
I had a master cylinder go out on me once (1977 Chrysler New Yorker - my favorite barge!) and it was like having no power assist. Had it replaced and no problem.
Brakes are one area that I NEVER skimp on.
Deke
I read in the owners manual that you should not leave the parking brake on in cold weather and that's what I was doing (until I read that) could that have something to do with it?
We recently bought a 2004 Camry XLE V6 with adjustable pedals. There is a constant drive train vibration coming through the accelerator pedal when accelerating under load up hills or when maintaining speed on the highway. The vibration can be a distraction and a big nuisance--especially given the fact that everything else about the Camry is very quiet, smooth and vibration-free. We test drove a 2004 LE V6 and a 2003 XLE 4 cylinder, both without adjustable pedals, and there was no vibration problem. A dealer's service department said that the vibration occurs because the accelerator and brake pedals are not solidly secured to the the firewall like cars without adjustable pedals. Instead, they are somehow suspended and connected to an area that picks up the drive train vibration under load. The dealer has received several complaints and forwarded them to Toyota Corp. As of yet, Toyota Corp. has not issued any service bulletins with a fix.
Yikes!
Is this important, or can I let it go until I notice a problem or change in performance? I have no symptoms of a problem. Thanks!
Ray
Thanks
I have a 96 Camry XLE V-6 that I bought four years ago that the previous owner said the car did not have the remote lock. The car has everything but remote. I doubt that it did not come with one. My guess is that she lost the remote as the car had only one metal key.
Thanks,
Joe
I removed the little cover on the console to press the over-ride/bypass switch and it fixed the problem.
Has anyone else experienced this problem ?
What could cause this type of problem ?
Should I bring the car into the dealer for service ?
I wasn't sure if the very cold weather in my area may be related to the problem, but the car seems to run OK now.
Thanks in advance for your comments.
Rita
I research in the meantime and see Toyota has a TSB on this problem.
---
Component Description:
3. ENGINE AND ENGINE COOLING:ENGINE
NHTSA Number:
351496
Bulletin Number:
TC02001
Bulletin Date:
JAN 2002
Vehicle: 1997 Toyota Camry
Summary:
LIMITED SERVICE CAMPAIGN X01 INVOLVING REPLACEMENT OF THE 5VZ-FE V6 ENGINE CYLINDER HEAD GASKET. *TT
---
Wondering if anyone here has had a similar problem.
Also, how do you recommend I go about getting the problem solved?
Finally, are costs of this repair covered by this TSB?
Again, I am not overly confident in my local Toyota service department - but I' getting tired of cleaning up oil spots...
-srp
Thanks, it figures I was just in for an oil change and forgot to mention it, on the plus side (I guess) I must go back for some rattle repairs so they can lube it then.
Rattles,
Good news, bad news. Most rattle sufferers likley already know about the 2002/03 cowl issue. Well it seams there is now a replacement cowl part. My dealer just ordered me the part. The bad news is that the tech told me they had good luck just adding some tape under the original 02 cowl. It lasted me 6 months before the rattels, pops and vibrations returned. I was optomistic a major Camry nuisance would be remedied by this new part, the tech did not seem that enthusiaatic.
As far as the buzz/vibration that creeps up more than not in the radio area (the one quieted by pushing down on the little shelf above the radio), I asked that they insulate around the radio. They called me back and said they were ordering me a radio 'bezel' to replace an existing plastic one that tends to warp in Camry's. When I get the actual part numbers I will post them. Again, trying to be optimistic, if these 2 parts end these two rattles I will feel as if I am in a new car all over again. I'll keep the rattles forum posted. If you suffer these affilctions keep an eye out over the next few weeks.
Finally, I must say we are getting our share of snow, ice, slush, sleet and rain the past few months here in PA. My new Goodrich Traction TAs have made a hell of a difference in the performance of the Camry in these conditions.
Also, rear brakes constantly glaze. I think that may be an issue with rear drums on some vehicles that sleep outside.
1. Driver door open and unlocked. Key out of the ignition
2. Insert the key and remove 2 times in 5 sec.
3. Close and open driver door 2 times in 40 sec.
4. Insert the key and remove it again from ignition.
5. Close and open driver door 2 times in 40 sec.
6. Insert the key in ignition,
7. Close the door,
8. Turn to on and back to lock in 1 second intervals. 1 time for add, 2 times for rewrite, 3 for confirmation 5 for prohibition. (yes, there is no “4”)
9. Remove the key
10. Power lock will cycle to confirm
11. For add or rewrite mode within 40 sec of the confirmation,
A. press “lock” and “unlock” buttons of the FOB at the same time between 1 and 1.5 seconds.
B. within 3 sec press “Lock” button for more than 1 sec and release.
C. If it’s correct, the power door lock will cycle once. If it’s wrong the door lock will cycle twice.
Is there some kind of reset on the 91?
This has been the tip of the iceberg with me as far as this car is concerned. The extent of my problems are: an annoying vibration on the left front side, which I have been told is the carrier bearing (was replaced for $500 and is worse now than it was when I had it fixed, broken driver's outside door handle, had to replace both of the driver's side window motors, etc. and the continuing problem with the valve cover gasket. I am leaning towards there being a problem with the distributor or some innerworkings of it since when new plugs were tested, there was no spark. Curious if anyone else has had a similar problem..I am sure it is something very simple.. quoting Judge Judy,"make it simple stupid.."