Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions

alcan

Boost it to get it running then place a voltmeter across the battery terminals. Should read about 13.8-14.2 volts. If ok, either the battery's pooched or something's discharging it with the key off. If not, the battery's not receiving a charge from the alternator. Repeat the test between the alternator's battery terminal and a clean ground. If ok, there's an open circuit between the alternator and battery. If not, the alternator's not charging.

peterpan

It is very likely that the body shop caused the defects in the fan switch or its wiring. The wires are probably chafed/pinched against something or the chassis, and are shorted to ground when you turn the fan on.

 

When that happens, the leakage current is not high enough to blow the fuse but the battery can usually be completely drained in a few minutes.

 

Go into the fuse box in the engine compartment and pull the fuse to the fan and leave it out overnight. If the battery is not drained overnight then the fault is definitely in the fan circuit.

 

If the battery is still drained then the fault is in other circuits. Sequentially pull all fuses until you find one that saves the battery. That will be the faulty circuit. You can look around the part and its wiring. Most likely the problem is some chafed, pinched or exposed wires.

 

Dealers have computer diagostics that alledgedly can find the faulty circuits without having to physically remove any parts. The service techs would still have to do troubleshooting to isolate the faulty components. Finding shorted wires in a car chassisis a very tough job.

 

My local dealer charges $90 for that diagnostic before any estimate can be made! In the past they were unable to find intermittent shorts in my family's Celica.

lmsmedley1

Hey all:

I rear-ended my '97 Camry LE V6 into an Accord. The Accord was fine -- my car got the worst of it. It's going to need a whole new bumper, hood, headlight assemblys, and probably more.

 

Is there a way i can buy OEM parts, like the bumper and hood myself, rather than have the body shop do it and (I assume) mark up the cost to ridiculous levels? This is an out of pocket repair, not insurance.

 

If so, where would I look for these things?

 

thanks,

Matt

jbkennedy

I have a 97 Camry and want to get a bike rack for it. Do they make a receiver hitch for the Camry? The receiver hitch racks seem to be the best.

vppc

Hello!

 

I would look on Ebay. I purchased a headlight for my '98 when a deer hit me, thus causing a dent in my hood and breaking the latches that hold the headlight in. It only cost me $20. Dealer is easily $70 or more! Personally, I would buy for both sides, because I am sure they have an "aged" look to them now. I also seen a fender for around $40 as well. As far as hoods go, I have only seen the aftermarket carbon fiber hoods that run $300! If you can't find a hood, then I would look at junkyards or go to the dealer, because shipping on one is EXPENSIVE.

 

Also, the bumper cover runs about $70, and I also seen bumpers for the rear for only about $100.

 

Good luck!

- Alex

foggy

I have a 2004 camry XLE, at 78,000 km's the steering wheel began to squeak. My brother has 2001 camry XLE and he has the same problem. His developed earlier. He has been in for service 3 times for this problem which keeps coming. Service manager told him it was bushing wearing. his dosen't sound right if it keeps coming back. Warranty expired on both cars. Although I have an extended warranty, I don't believe it covers. Anyone else have similar problems and if so was the problem identified and fixed.

joescar

My 2004 Camry has noise in the steering as well. Look at my previous posts (joescar). Hopefully the problem will finally be resolved this Friday when the dealer will replace the intermediate shaft in the steering column which connects the column to the steering box. They tell me it's a defective "U" joint in that mechanism causing the problem. They have already replaced the rack assembly to no avail. I'll post results later this week. Keep watching!

lfm

I have a '04 Solara Sle Conv. with a v6 and 5 speed Auto. There is a good 2 sec. lag from the time you press down on the gas pedal, and when the car finally figures out that you want to go faster. Since the car has both the auto and the manual shift mode, if you slide the lever over to manual mode, it will automatically downshift into 4th gear. I do this any time I want to pass or enter the highway. It appears that Toyota, in an effort to increase mileage ratings, forces the transmission to upshift into 5th gear at very so speeds, thereby creating this lag. Top gear is in overdrive with a ration of about .61 to 1. Since this is so high, that is what causes the lag. Back in the spring of '92, I had a similar problem with a New Toyota Camry XLE with the V6 and 4 speed Auto with overdrive. I would have to press the overdrive button to kick it out of top gear, and got all the performance I wanted. If you want performance in town, keep it on the manual side in 4th gear all the time.

joescar

After several attempts to correct the noise eminating from the steering in my 2004 Camry, the problem has finally been resolved. The dealer replaced the intermediate steering shaft. This component connects the steering column to the steering box. He explained that the "U" joint failed and further that this is not uncommon. My car now steers and drives normally without clunking when turning the wheel.

ktnr

In almost any car the U-joint in the intermediate steering shaft carries a pretty light load. Given that it's inside the cabin, it's also protected from the elements. This has got to be a uncommon problem among late-model cars and trucks as a whole.

 

I've read a number of complaints on these boards about clicks and rattles in the steering column of current Camrys so it seems likely that Toyota has a design issue with that particular part.

 

Or did your dealer indicate that this is a common problem in a variety of cars he sees?

cornellpinoy

I wouldn't say this is an uncommon problem among late model cars and trucks as a whole. The current generation GM full-size truck/SUV and midsize sedans are having the same problem with the intermediate steerting shaft.

ktnr

I'm surprised - it just doesn't seem like that would a difficult part to get right (and yet if it's not right a mfr could count on the warranty repairs flooding in).

 

Thanks for sharing that.

hoffray

What fixed the idle problem? Thanks

RAy

bernie3

I'm thinking of buying a new Camry LE next week and I'd like to know what the minimum service requirements are during the 3 year/36,000 warranty period to keep the warranty in effect. Do they all need to be performed by a Toyota dealer, and what are the typical costs? I assume regular oil changes, but what else?

  

I haven't bought a new car in years and I get oil changes and fluid levels checked/ topped off every 3,000 miles at the cost of about $30.

 

Thanks for the help!

buffalonickel

Having a problem with noise in '04 Solara moonroof. When it opens in the tilt or the full open position the roof shutters and rubs as the glass rises up out of the locking position. This is especially evident in the summer during the heat.

 

Toyota has had a service bulletin pertaining to this that dates back to July '04, but there is still no answer here. I know that this is exclusive to certain VIN's and was wondering if any of you fine folks have experienced similar episodes or have heard of this?

 

I am surprised that it took almost 9 months (it took them many months to have enough complaints to generate the service bulletin) to get this far and still Toyota hasn't figured out a fix. I am also wondering if other Solara's won't experience the same dilemma over the next few years.

 

B

lemebth1

Hello, I have an '02 Camry Le.All you have to do to fix the noise is spray WD40 w/tube attached, around the steering shaft where it enters the floorboard's rubber grommet. Toyota says the noise is from the steering column moving against the rubber seal. I did this fix myself ,six mths. ago and not a sound since. Now, if Toyota would replace the stupid center exhuast pipe, hanging 3 7/8" from the ground. Looks like the exhaust system is falling down. Scaping on bumps like a cheaply made old car.

junepug

Our 2002 V6 LE gets an oil and filter change every 3 to 4 thousand miles. I also have the tires rotated every 5,000 miles. There is a cabin air filter behind the glove compartment that should be changed once a year or every 10,000 miles. I have changed ours twice and the old one is quite dirty.

 

The Camry has been one of our best trouble free autos we have ever owned.

cam2003

I have OEM alloy rims with lug nuts, now I change to metal rims for winter. Do I need a different set of lug nuts for metal rims ? It seems lug nuts for alloy rims do not fit well.

r0de099

Is there a dipstick for transmission fluid on 95 toyota camry?

alcan

Yes.

ricarey

I've been having cold start problems since the summer. Since then I've replaced the spark plugs, battery, and had the IAC valve/EGR valve cleaned, as well as frequently using fuel system/fuel injection cleaners. Nothing seems to make the problem go away and it is fairly unpredictable. Will not start without using the accelerator in the morning or after work, though this is not 100 percent consistent. It will turn over but then idle down and die out. Anyone with any suggestions other than the IAC or EGR valve is much appreciated.

typesix

If car does not go to high idle after starting, it's IAC problem. If car needs several cranks to start when engine is cold, especially as outside temp falls, problem is likely cold start injector system. The cold start timer is common part that gets replaced.

ricarey

I haven't ruled out the IAC completely, though it didn't work any better after having it cleaned out. Is there a way to see if it's totally shot? Is the cold start timer easy/not too expensive to replace or is that the same things as the cold fuel injector?

typesix

The IAC will provide high idle after the car starts by sensing the coolant temperature(you did not say what year and engine your Camry is, mine is 89 4 cyl).The IAC should not affect the cold start. The cold start timer also senses coolant temperature and sends a signal to the cold start injector to squirt extra gas(besides the regular injectors)when the coolant temp is cold enough. The timer on my Camry is located on same side as distributor and is below it with an electrical connector that plugs into it. I think it's a brown color on mine. Need to take resistance reading of the timer when the car is cold and it should be a certain value(don't have the info with me, it's at home). Part cost is $120-140 at dealer.

ricarey

It's a 99, and it does appear to be a cold start problem. I have a repair manual at home I can consult for the exact location/part on my car.

davidy4

There is small noise when I make a sharp turn in very slow speed. And, I also feel the power steering wheel is kind of loose. Because I can hear a very low sound of "peng or pong" when I turn wheel to the utmost right/left to park my car. ALthough all these symptons are small and sometime neglectable, But my camry is only half a yr old with 7k mileage, it is definitely not like the way when I bought it. SO I turned it to my dealer, they told me they replaced the whole steering rack assembly with no cose to me because of the warranty. It is ok now, but one thing leaving me unhappy is they replaced with a "remanufactured" part from toyota. I don't know if it is normal. Sometime I even regret I maybe made it fussily.

And they also told me this problem is not normal, the representative personally saw it as the 2nd case of same problem.

joescar

I had the same problem (clicking in steering) with my '04 Camry. They also replaced the rack but that didn't solve the problem. Finally they replaced the intermediate steering column shaft which finally resolved the defect. You'll probably find the same condition returns and won't be fixed until the steering column component is replaced.

hatestoyota

I dealt with the problem for over a year with Toyota telling me it was a characteristic of the car. The car would sometimes just sit there and have no clue which gear it was supposed to go in. I had several near misses due to the shifting problem. I finally got rid of the car after a year of this. Toyota will not help you. The problem has been there since 2003.

wil12345

I have been watching this forum for about a year as I owned a 04 Camry XLE V6 with the 5 speed automatic as well. Our car had hesitation that ranged from almost none to extreme depending on the day and conditions. Toyota told me that it was operating as designed and that they would not fix it. After months of frustration, a meeting with the zone service manager and numerous calls and letters to Toyota, we sold the car. We have had Toyota cars and vans in the past with the 4 speed automatic and never had any problem, but this 5 speed automatic transmission and engine combination makes a nice car a real disaster. In addition, the lack of response from Toyota has convinced me that this will be the last Toyota product I own.

bad_gash

When I bought this car I initially got 25.5mpg. At only 6,000 miles I have been getting between 21.5 and 24mpg. This is well below my expectations as it is rated to get 23-32mpg for the 4cyl. The car runs fine, tire pressure maintained at 35lbs. Anyone else have the same problem or feedback from dealership regarding poor gas mileage?

joescar

During winter months the refineries formulate gasoline differently to assure easier starting (light ends in chemical terms). This fuel provides fewer BTUs per volume thereby delivering less mileage per gallon. Perhaps that's what you're experiencing. Additionally, the car will burn more fuel during colder weather because it takes longer to warm up to normal operating temperature. Finally, perhaps you've changed brands of gas. I get more MPG with Shell, as an example than "Walmart" gas. Try it.

hgolio

I have a 1999 Camry that sounded and smelled like it needed a new muffler. Brought it in to the dealer and they said that I needed a new catlaytic converter and front engine pipe. They quoted me a price of $1100.00 for the part and $150.00 for labor. Having replaced mufflers in the past, this price sounded quite high. However, the dealer (who has always been fair with me) said the part is very expensive. Is this a reasonable price for the part? The part is Toyo 17410-03140. Thanks

ktnr

Under Federal law, key components of your vehicle's emissions systems are warranted by the vehicle manufacturer for 8-years or 80,000 miles. You don't say but can we presume that you're beyond that mileage? If you're not much past 80,000 miles, it would probably be worth your while to contact Toyota and ask for good will coverage of the failed cat. If you're way over and without an extended warranty, then I'd get parts prices on the internet and buy the parts wholesale (dealer markup on parts can typically be 50% or more).

csagee

My radio isn't working. Does anyone know where I can locate the fuse? Or, know where I can look up to retrieve a diagram on the net?

bad_gash

Thanks for your input joescar! I was discussing my problem over the holiday with some friends and they suggested trying a different brand of gas also. I have always used Mobil (regular) thinking it was a better quality. I'm going to try Hess brand which is another major gas provider here in the Northeast and see if the mpg are better. I'm also going to contact a local dealership I think is reputable for there input. I have considered the winter driving factors you mentioned, but am still discouraged getting only 21.5mpg. I'll post any new findings/results.

peterpan

Each fuse controls more than one components. If one blows, more than one components would not be working.

 

The fuse box is right next to the battery.

 

There is a diagram in the cover which spells out which fuse controls which circuit.

veestar

I have a 1992 camry 4cyl. automatic. It won't back up when put in reverse. Drives fine through forward gears. Can this possibly be the shift solenoid or does this indicate a trashed tranny? If it's the solenoid, can it be replaced by an average do-it-yourselfer? Thanks for any replys

typesix

Owner's manual will have fuse location. Fuse for radio will not be in engine compartment fusebox,those fuses are mostly engine related. There is another fusebox on left side panel under driver's side dash and it's likely radio fuse will be in that group.

camhead

I started mty car and the "lights" warning indicator was highlighted on the dash. I soon found out that i had no stop brake lights. I checked the bulbs which seem to be good, and i checked all fuses. Is there something being overlooked? I one stop brake light bulb is bad would that effect all the bulbs ? I need help

typesix

Check to make sure none of the bulbs is shorted out. Someone on a different auto forum had this problem and it was a bad bulb that had shorted out.

camhead

do u think one bad bulb would ruin it for all the bulbs??

cchowus

My 2001 has factory alloys and the lugs have tapered ends that seat correctly in the lug holes of steel wheels. This is a required compatibility feature so you can bolt up the spare tire which is usually on a steel wheel.

peterpan

I've posted about this problem before.

 

The problem is most likely a defective brake light module, which is a circuit board inside a yellow plastic box, half the size of a cigarette pack, in the trunk, near the power antenna.

 

You can buy a used model from salvage yard for about $40. New module from dealer is about $150. You can plug it in without problem.

 

You can also take the circuit board out and look for cracked solder joints. Solder them back and it should work fine. That's what I did.

typesix

Yes, that is another possibility. The other writer in a different forum had one shorted bulb which made the other lights not light up along with the "light burnt out" message. In his case, he burnt up a lot of solder joints in modules before finding out it was a bad bulb.

bigharold

Open your drivers door, set in the drivers seat, look to the left of the steering wheel, it looks like an ashtray, pull it all the way out and you will see the fuses behind it. the diagram for all the fuses is located on the back of the pulled out section.

 

goodluck,

  big harold

bigharold

1992 Toyota Camry was not getting any gas. Would turn over and had run fine 2 hours previously. Was parked in a parking spot and had run fine. Thought it was the fuel pump, replaced it, reset the fuse as it had been blown, attempted to start it, fuel is getting to injectors and to the throttle body, but will not fire. Have checked all fuses that I know about, have pulled spark plugs and have no spark. Any suggestions on what to look for next.

 

Thanks,

peterpan

It looks like the ignition system is dead. It could be a wet distributor, its worn rotor, burned ignition module, burned ignition coil, or all 4 broken plugs' wires (not likely).

 

I suggest trouble shoot and test crank the engine at each stage in the following order:

 

1. Open the distributor cap. Inspect for any cracks, moisture etc...Replace the rotor ($5.00) then secure the cap. Crank the engine.

 

 
2. Use a sharp tool to mark the position of the distributor's 2 mounting screws relative to its mounting flanges, as the distributor's mounting position affects firing timing.

Remove the distributor. Check for open/damaged wires around the ignition coil inside the distributor. The coil could look fine on the outside but have burned wires inside. The stores can probably measure the inductance to find out whether it's still good or not. Replace the coil ($40) if necessary.

  

3. Remove and test the ignition module in another 92 Camry, or just replace the module ($150). The module is silver, the size of half cigarette pack, mounted on the left strut housing in the engine bay. Crank the engine.

 

The replacement parts are sold at auto part stores.

peterpan

If one brake bulb is burned, the other one should continue working! Engineers are not so stupid to design a series circuit like that!

 

Try it. Remove one brake bulb and see whether the other works!

typesix

Just relaying the other writer stated. He did not say bulb was burnt out, it had a short which caused the lamp burn out module to overheat and melt a solder joint.

slim2

My 2002 maintenace manual suggests changing the air conditioner filter every 7500 miles. Is this something I can do, or does it involve a mechanic ripping out a dashboard ? How much does the part cost ? How much to have dealer do it ? Any help will be appreciated.