It is fairly simple to do. In your owners manual it will describe the procedure. But basically, it involves removing a screw on the one side of the glove box and letting the glove box door hang down. (remove everything from the glove box first!) Then you can see the filter door, remove it and switch out the old one for the new one, replace and put everything back as it was. It's a five minute job once you have done it once. The first time it will take a bit longer. Good Luck! Oh, the part is about $15.
I'm sort of a geek. I really like the information display (MPG, elapsed time, average speed). On my first two fuel fill-ups, I checked the accuracy of the average MPG; is it way off. For example, on a trip, the info showed 39.2 average MPG, but the actual fuel and miles driven gave a calculation of 33.1. Also, the estimated remaining driving distance (before a fill-up is needed) is very inaccurate.
Does anybody know whether the info display can be calibrated or adjusted to be more accurate?
we have two Camrys. The '02 has only 50,000 on it and now the brake ligh is turning on. Same light when parking brake is applied. I am betting that we are getting close to new brake job - haven't needed one yet. Is this a feature of the newer Camry's to have the brake light come on to indicate pads are getting low versus the old squeeler assembly that would rub the rotor?
I am driving my 92 XLE - girl friend would not be seen dead in it until it gets washed this spring.
I just saw a posting about air conditioner filter being changed on a '02. Is there the same filter for my '92?
Also, the driver's door handle has quit working - clunk and something snapped inside. My question is this... can I use the back left riders door handle as an exchange? I know that there is a connector for the power door attached, but is there the same holder for the left rear door handle.. As in one handle for both the left front and back doors?
Trying to find replacement at the auto recyclers is hard, very few 92's around. Would a 93 perhaps fit?
It is my intention to drive the car until it hits a half a million just to see the dealer's reaction when I try to trade it in for a new hybrid or like in a few years.
I just got the 05 V6 SE. Driving it I have found that when I do a rolling stop then accelerate, I have problems. You can hear the engine but the car doesn't got for a second or two. It seems as if the car doesn't know which gear to go into. The car then catches up and the car jerks a bit. I took it to my dealership (w/ under 1000 miles on it!) and they said it was only the new technology. They said it was the new electronic wiring from the accelerator to the computer. I told them new technology, my 1985 Buick Skyhawk drove better. A 2005 Camry is the best selling car in America and thats how they drive? I think I just got a generic answer from my dealer. If it takes a 1/2 second for the computer to register that I am putting my foot on the gas, then why does it only happen when I am doing a rolling stop. Why wouldn't it do that when the car is completely stopped or when I am accelerating or merging? Can anyone help out? I was told by family mechanic that it is definetly a problem. I am thinking of trading in the car already and I originally planned on keeping it for 10 years!
The problem is: At extremely low speed, the steering wheel slides occasionally. This is especially noticeable when changing the direction of turning steering wheel. I can feel a small slippage, like a gap, and hear a small noise.
Check the brake fluid level. It is, most likely, at or below the min level – add some. Or stop by your Toyota dealer, and they would top the fluids for you (your car) free of charge.
When the brake light is lit and/or fluid level is low, that's the sure sign that the brake pads are well worn and should be replaced.
If the pads are not worn and the fluid level keeps getting low, then the brake system has a leak somewhere that needs to be immediately fixed, or one may face complete loss of braking action in a hard stop, when it is needed most!
After replacing brake pads, bleeding brake lines, and refilling the fluid to maximum level, experienced shops recommend leaving the fluid level as is, never top it off, so when the pads are worn, the lower fluid level and/or the brake light can serve as warnings.
It's best to use Toyota's OEM pads. The pads' materials are specifically designed for the car and will work better, longer, quieter. The discount pads may be too hard, wearing out the rotor prematurely, and most of them will squeak and squeal, not worth any savings!
I had a similar problem with my steering wheel. It feels like if I am driving that the steering wheel takes the car to the opposite direction. I had it fixed once it was off centered and the dealership straighten it, but it is back to pulling again. However, I was also having a major pull from what the dealership called radial pull, after 6 trips to the dealership and one to the tire manufactor, the problem was taken care of for a few weeks. Have you had any other problems with the 03 Camry, I have had paint problems. Please let me know if anyone else is having so many problems with their 03 Camry.
my 00 camry's taillight burn out warning light keeps on. Actually all tail lights including brake lights , turn signal lights and backup (reverse signal light) are all good.
Why this warning light on the instrument panel keeps on? this puzzles me. Anybody have a similar problem or do u have any comments on this. thanks.
Can anyone confirm what I was told, Ilove my 05 camery LE but was told that the brake pedel is soft or sponge and it seems if it takes longer for stopping distance any 0ther 05's have this problem
I have the same exact problem on my 05 V6 LE that I bought in late Sept. Noticed the problem with in a day or two, wish I would've noticed it on the test drive. Lived with it for about 1500 mi, then took it in. Was told same thing as you except to give it a while longer to "learn my driving habits." Well, it must be a slow learner, took it back in yesterday with 3400 mi, started to get the same answer, pressed them, and was introduced to the head technician, who had driven my car, noticed the same thing I was and gave me same electronic throttle/computer explanation - "normal for the 05 V6, within limits." What!? I pulled out a print out from this forum with all of the similiar complaints, and some solutions. Unfortunately, non of the solutions applied to an 05 V6 5SPD Auto which I'm guessing must be different in some way from previous years. Anyway, my frusteration started to show and the head tech broke down and said "ok, look, you're not the only one, I must give this explanation 6 times a day - I've entered this problem in the computer so many times, way over the threshold for Toyota to start working on a solution. I'm sure they're working on it and should have a TIS or TSP (I think) out within a few months. I seen similiar stuff with other first year models/technologies and Toyota will come out with a fix." Don't know what to say, can't stand driving this car, but like it other than the hesitations. I too thought I'd own this car for a long time but spend a lot of time thinking about what I could get to replace it. Will be patient for a time, but it's running out.
Ski what is a TIS or TSP? Are you still driving this car with the problem. I am going back for the second time to the dealer for this problem. I guess I'll come away empty handed again?!
Thanks ktnr for clarifying the TSB. Just looked at my invoice from the visit and it says "checked TIS and found no updates" - I guess the TIS must be their computer system for checking TSB's.
commish1-
I'm still driving the car, I haven't been in a situation yet where I thought the hesitation unsafe, just unacceptably annoying, nontheless, I do feel it would be safer if it responded properly. It would be a nice car if they could take care of this, it's a quiet, smooth ride, and the V6 is strong (when not hesitating which probably isn't the engine's fault).
The dealer has told me to check back periodically to see if they have a fix yet (apparently if you give them your VIN, they can look in the TIS for TSB's). So I'll keep driving it and keep checking with them.
Looked at the lemon law, it says the condition must substantially impair the use, value or safety of the vehicle. Not sure if that would apply here or not. I could see arguments either way.
Have not had any problems with the brakes.
Would rather not trade it for another car as it would be quite a financial hit, but I will if they don't fix it relatively soon.
Here is a complant(from NHTSA) about a Sienna owner experiencing "hesitation"
Make : TOYOTA Model : SIENNA Year : 2004
Manufacturer : TOYOTA MOTOR NORTH AMERICA, INC.
Crash : No Fire : No Number of Injuries: 0
ODI ID Number : 10082915 Date of Failure: July 6, 2004
VIN : Not Available
Component: POWER TRAIN:AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Summary:
WHILE APPROACHING A LEFT HAND TURN OFF A 4 LANE UNDIVIDED HIGHWAY I SAW A VEHICLE APPROACHING IN THE MIDDLE MOST LANE WITH ITS LEFT TURN SIGNAL ON WHICH I INTERPRETED AS A SIGN THAT THE VEHICLE WAS GOING TO MAKE A LEFT TURN WHERE I WAS ALSO TURNING. BUT IT TURNED OUT THE TURN SIGNAL MUST HAVE JUST BEEN FORGOTTEN ABOUT AND THE VEHICLE WAS INTENDING TO CONTINUE TRAVELLING STRAIGHT. BY THIS TIME I HAD ALREADY STARTED MY TURN AND WAS IN THE PATH OF THE ONCOMING VEHICLE. WHEN I REALIZED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT GOING TO TURN I FLOORED THE ACCELERATOR TO GET OUT OF ITS WAY. THE SIENNA SEEMED TO SLOW DOWN VIOLENTLY AS ALL PASSENGERS IN MY SIENNA LURCHED FORWARD, AND THEN THE TRANSMISSION FINALLY SEEMED TO KICK IN AFTER WHAT SEEMED LIKE A COUPLE OF SECONDS OF SITTING HELPLESSLY IN THE PATH OF THE ONCOMING VEHICLE, WHICH HAD TO SLAM ON ITS BRAKES TO AVOID COLLIDING WITH US. THIS ACCELERATION HESITATION COULD HAVE BEEN MUCH MORE DANGEROUS IF THE OTHER DRIVER HAD NOT BEEN DRIVING DEFENSIVELY.*AK
end quote
I would say that the "hesitation" is definitely affecting all drivers on the road! It is not so great to have the "hesitation" during a emergent situation! However, it is a great so far that no one is injured due to hesitation! TOYOTA BETTER DO SOMETHING IN THE NEAREST FUTURE to fix the problem!
IMHO, making both left and right turns in Ontario, Canada are really dangerous... and sometimes it really needs the brisk acceleration in order to avoid the "T-bone" crash! Say if you drive a sedan get to an intersection then you plan to make a left turn, meanwhile, there is a SUV/van is also trying to make a left turn on the opposite side and it blocks your view. But you are unable to see there is any oncoming traffic, then you have to roll forward to see, say if a oncoming traffic car is like 100 ft away travelling at 50 mph toward you, then in order to avoid the crash, the hesitation must not play any part during this turn and require a brisk acceleration! Consequently, it is not acceptable to have hesitation!
Today I went to my dealership again (second time). I took the master mechanic out for a spin and he said he felt the problem also. After hooking the car up to the machine, it was determined that there is no problem with the car. With only 1,400 miles on the car I am growing very impatient. I bought a Toyota so I would not have this problem! I pray I will not have a situation like the Sienna posted here! If anyone hears of anything please post. I am going to call Toyota and make a complaint. Probably won't help but worth a shot.
For the past 5 months, we've had a problem with a sloshing noise in the dashboard. It sounds like fluid rolling back and forth within the dash, more so on the driver's side. You can hear it the most in the morning during the first 5-10 minutes of driving, particularly when going down hills or turning corners.
We have taken it to two different dealerships and they have both said the fluids need to be topped off. Our most recent visit was only a month ago (the noise came back within 1 week) and the fluid levels have been checked and are fine. We are taking it back again this week.
I have the same problem with my 2005 Camry LE. The hesitation is worrisome but nothing disastrous so far. But irritating and surely the thud that results when the transmission catches up with the engine is not good for the transmission! Toyota technician first told me that there was no problem. On a second visit, with the preceding comments in hand, he said there is no doubt there is a problem but Toyota has not learned out to fix it so far. (Apparently some 2004 models had the same problem.) The technician said he would call me when Toyota had some kind of fix.
For those experiencing hesitations, suggest you go to the Avalon Forum under "Toyota Avalon Owners: Future Models" and start reading from post #677. You'll get a good history of this problem starting with the Lexus ES330 in 2002.
Forgive me if I'm oversimplifying, but it seems as though the electronic throttle/computer system is programmed to adjust itself to your driving habits and optimize emissions to meet ULEV 2 (some sort of government emission standard). But the time the computer takes to figure all this out is causing the delay.
I have no doubt that Toyota is aware and probably... hopefully... working on a solution. Fixes to the Lexus have had mixed results.
Here are a couple of articles I stole from the Avalon Forum:
My guess is that Toyota's challenge is to reprogram the computer to eliminate or reduce the delay while still meeting the emissions requirements. I think that Toyota has to meet the ULEV 2 requirements and that won't be sacrificed to fix the hesitation - if they can't do both. So I'm praying they're able to do both - and quick.
I'm going to wait for a while (not sure how long) and see what they come up with. But I'm already thinking about what to replace it with just in case. Meanwhile, will check back with the dealer periodically.
To those considering the Camry - take it for a good test drive. Specifically, simulate stop and go traffic by decelerating to less than 10mph and then accelerating again. Do this multiple times at different speeds under 10mph. Also recommend rapidly doing an accel-decel-accel (or vice versa) at any speed to see how it reacts (I've found this can confuse the computer - feels like it's saying "hey wait, I can't keep up"). [It might be fun to do this on a hot day with the windows up and no AC to see if you can get the salesman to lose his cookies.] I don't think these things will bother everyone, and if they don't bother you, it may be a good car for you, but I tend to be picky and they really bug me.
Just want to thank all the members of this board and Edmunds.com. I was considering purchasing a 2005 Camry or Lexus ES300/330 until I read about the tranmission problems, and the unacceptable attitude and response that Toyota has had towards its loyal customers. I am an unhappy 03 Accord owner who was looking for a more reliable vehicle, and I will not be looking for a Toyota product because of their poor customer service. (There isn't even a email-contact on their websites!).
I don't know if this will help or not. I had a similar problem I was concerned about. The sound didn't sound like water but a loose plastic part that would "go back and forth" (in sound) whenever I would turn. My mechanic took me on two drives that proved to me it was my coins (quarters, dimes, nickels)sliding around in the change drawer making the sound come up through the air vent right above it. Take any coins out of your coin drawer and see if that's the problem. If not...I don't know what it is! Regards
Just had the timing belt changed on '96 Camry LE 4cyl with 112,000mi. When I got the car back, the check engine light was on (it wasn't when I brought it in). The shop guy said it couldn't be their fault. Is that true? Code is P0104 - Low Efficiency Cat Converter.
Does anyone find that the seat-belts do not rewind very well?
The latch plate were frequently being slammed to the lower part of pillar B when trying to close the front passenger/driver side doors... the main problem is that too much dents were created and paint chips off on the lower part of pillar B, and i have to open the door, manually wind it up, and close the door again! I found it's a bit annoying.
A new discussion forum was started for the Hesitation problem. This problem is happening across several models and after some heated discussion at the Highlander Problems and Solutions discussion forum, the hosts decided to open a forum specifically for this issue. It can be found under Maintenance and Repair or by doing a search of the forums for "hesitation". Here is a direct link:
Two days ago i notice that the antifreeze tank is empty which is i fill it up a day before.So i check and see whats going on when i notice a wet spot at the bottom of the radiator its like someone pour water in there.Then today when i drove to the bus terminal after i park the car i went to check the radiator again and i see the fluids coming from the radiator what do you guys think is the problem here is it just a leak or i something serious?Maybe you can help me out.THANKS....
I have a 2003 Camry also and it does the same thing. I took it in about 10 months ago and they told me the same thing they told you. So it seemed that it corrected the problem, but after a few months the noise came back. It does it all the time. At first I thought it was because it was cold, but even after I have been driving it for awhile it still does it. I know it is not normal, because I had a camry before this and it never did this. Please let me know what you find out.
The light on the dash ( the one that has a symbol of a car with light coming from the rear of it) is on. It comes on when the brakes are first applied, and it stays on. The manual says this is caused by a brake light bulb being burned out - I have replaced both of them - what to try next?
Any idea where the relay is that turns this bulb ob the dash on, is?
******************* 01/09/2005
I just run into the same problem with my Tyta Camry 1999....the light bulbs are all fine. But the 'car light symbol' on dashboard doesn't go away....I even bled the brakes. I don't have the owner's manual.
"The light on the dash (the one that has a symbol of a car with light coming from the rear of it) is on. It comes on when the brakes are first applied, and it stays on. The manual says this is caused by a brake light bulb being burned out - I have replaced both of them - what to try next?
Any idea where the relay is that turns this bulb ob the dash on, is?"
************** (((((( ))))))) ************
I am experiencing the same problem...the light bulbs are Ok....
Perhaps you're referring to Toyota's drive-by-wire technology as implemented in the current-generation Camry. Other implementations of this technology by other manufacturers haven't been as problematic (Honda Accord for example).
The Toyota Prius (along with several BMW's and Mercedes models )actually use brake-by-wire technology. The designs I've looked at online don't have any mechanical fail-safe or backup so...hmmm.
I agree that it is not drive-by-wire technology that is faulty, but it is Toyota's application of this technology. We owned a 2003 Camry XLE with a 4 cyl engine and 4 speed automatic. This car had drive-by-wire technology and never did hesitate. When that car was totaled in an accident, we replace it with a 2004 Camry XLE V6 with the 5 speed automatic. This car had terrible hesitation, but based on owning both cars, I think the majority of the problem is in the slow response of the 5 speed automatic transmission. We now have a Subaru Outback with drive by wire and again no hesitation, so it appears that drive by wire can work, but Toyota can't seem to make it work with the 5 speed automatic.
I purchased my 2005 Camry SE V6 on November 29th. I now have 1,400 miles on the car. I am experiencing the same problems as you.
When I try to accelerate from a slow speed (under 10 mph) there is a "jerk", and then the car takes off. To avoid the jerk, I have to really step on it.
Does this new Camry have an electronic throttle? This may explain the "lag time" and jerking sensation. I have owned several Toyota vehicles, and this new 2005 Camry is the hardest to get used to. My 1995 4-cyl Camry was much quieter, much smoother, had more room, and drove a lot easier.
My 2005 SE is a great car. It has lots of power and handles well, but I cannot get used to the throttle. The pedal seems very stiff and hard to push. Also, I have lots of engine noise and road noise. I assume it is because of the powerful V6 engine and 17-inch performance tires. But I am disappointed. The car is very loud.
just had my timing belt replaced. When I picked up my car, the check engine light was on - code P0420 - low efficiency cat converter. Mechanic said it couldn't be his fault. Is this true?
Also, is there a free website with a list of codes and possible causes/solutions?
Not sure why you experience lots of engine noise when V6 engine should be much quieter compared with 4 cyl. For the road noise, mostly depends on type of tire, do you know your tire branch ?
Well we got the car back yesterday and my husband said he hasn't heard the noise yet. The dealership drained all of the fluids and replaced them. They said the noise could be coming from air in the fluids. We'll see how long this solution works. We continue to keep it well documented with the dealership as our warranty just ran out (my husband used to have a very long commute and put alot of miles on it). I just want to make sure it continues to be well documented in case something major happens and I refuse to be responsible for it, as we did start taking it into the dealership before the warranty ran out.
My 2002 Camry recently developed an annoying rattle in the dash. Any similar complaints, and if so, any easy solutions? Taking the car to my dealer is my last resort, as they usually just stuff insulation in the dash, which can cause other problems with linkage controls, etc.
For no apparent reason my camry has decided to not start. When I turn the key either:
1. Nothing happens (no lights, no clicks, no turning over of the engine)
2. I get lights, but when I turn the key everything shuts down (lights) and the engine doesn't turn over.
I went through the owner's manual and looked at the fuse section. I noted their are 3 fuses that control engine starting. I located the Main 40 amp fuse in the engine compartment, and the ST 10 amp fuse behind driver's side kick plate; but I can't find the AM1 40 amp fuse that is supposed to be somewhere adjacent to the fuse box near the instrument panel (behind the coin box). I replaced the Main 40 amp fuse to no avail. The ST 10 appears to be good, which only leaves the AM1 40 amp.
Does anyone know where it is? and, if this proves to be OK, does anyone have any other suggestions?
It's not uncommon for a bad battery to provide 12-volts for dash lights but then collapse under a load (the starter). Sounds like you need a new battery. An auto parts store should be able to test the battery and show you the amperage collapse.
It seems odd that you started looking at fuses rather than the more obvious battery problem.
or ignition switch? yes, an autostore should be able to test the alternator and battery and test the systems ability to handle a load. if alternator and battery test fine, i'd be looking at the ignition switch or cabling or other.
Comments
Oh, the part is about $15.
Jayme
I'm sort of a geek. I really like the information display (MPG, elapsed time, average speed). On my first two fuel fill-ups, I checked the accuracy of the average MPG; is it way off. For example, on a trip, the info showed 39.2 average MPG, but the actual fuel and miles driven gave a calculation of 33.1. Also, the estimated remaining driving distance (before a fill-up is needed) is very inaccurate.
Does anybody know whether the info display can be calibrated or adjusted to be more accurate?
Thanks
gclark
Thanks
I just saw a posting about air conditioner filter being changed on a '02. Is there the same filter for my '92?
Also, the driver's door handle has quit working - clunk and something snapped inside. My question is this... can I use the back left riders door handle as an exchange? I know that there is a connector for the power door attached, but is there the same holder for the left rear door handle.. As in one handle for both the left front and back doors?
Trying to find replacement at the auto recyclers is hard, very few 92's around. Would a 93 perhaps fit?
It is my intention to drive the car until it hits a half a million just to see the dealer's reaction when I try to trade it in for a new hybrid or like in a few years.
Thanks
The problem is: At extremely low speed, the steering wheel slides occasionally. This is especially noticeable when changing the direction of turning steering wheel. I can feel a small slippage, like a gap, and hear a small noise.
Any clue? Thanks!
Check the brake fluid level. It is, most likely, at or below the min level – add some. Or stop by your Toyota dealer, and they would top the fluids for you (your car) free of charge.
If the pads are not worn and the fluid level keeps getting low, then the brake system has a leak somewhere that needs to be immediately fixed, or one may face complete loss of braking action in a hard stop, when it is needed most!
After replacing brake pads, bleeding brake lines, and refilling the fluid to maximum level, experienced shops recommend leaving the fluid level as is, never top it off, so when the pads are worn, the lower fluid level and/or the brake light can serve as warnings.
It's best to use Toyota's OEM pads. The pads' materials are specifically designed for the car and will work better, longer, quieter. The discount pads may be too hard, wearing out the rotor prematurely, and most of them will squeak and squeal, not worth any savings!
Why this warning light on the instrument panel keeps on? this puzzles me. Anybody have a similar problem or do u have any comments on this. thanks.
HW4
The quickest way to find answers to this problem is to search this forum under "brake light."
Ski
commish1-
I'm still driving the car, I haven't been in a situation yet where I thought the hesitation unsafe, just unacceptably annoying, nontheless, I do feel it would be safer if it responded properly. It would be a nice car if they could take care of this, it's a quiet, smooth ride, and the V6 is strong (when not hesitating which probably isn't the engine's fault).
The dealer has told me to check back periodically to see if they have a fix yet (apparently if you give them your VIN, they can look in the TIS for TSB's). So I'll keep driving it and keep checking with them.
Looked at the lemon law, it says the condition must substantially impair the use, value or safety of the vehicle. Not sure if that would apply here or not. I could see arguments either way.
Have not had any problems with the brakes.
Would rather not trade it for another car as it would be quite a financial hit, but I will if they don't fix it relatively soon.
Make : TOYOTA Model : SIENNA Year : 2004
Manufacturer : TOYOTA MOTOR NORTH AMERICA, INC.
Crash : No Fire : No Number of Injuries: 0
ODI ID Number : 10082915 Date of Failure: July 6, 2004
VIN : Not Available
Component: POWER TRAIN:AUTOMATIC TRANSMISSION
Summary:
WHILE APPROACHING A LEFT HAND TURN OFF A 4 LANE UNDIVIDED HIGHWAY I SAW A VEHICLE APPROACHING IN THE MIDDLE MOST LANE WITH ITS LEFT TURN SIGNAL ON WHICH I INTERPRETED AS A SIGN THAT THE VEHICLE WAS GOING TO MAKE A LEFT TURN WHERE I WAS ALSO TURNING. BUT IT TURNED OUT THE TURN SIGNAL MUST HAVE JUST BEEN FORGOTTEN ABOUT AND THE VEHICLE WAS INTENDING TO CONTINUE TRAVELLING STRAIGHT. BY THIS TIME I HAD ALREADY STARTED MY TURN AND WAS IN THE PATH OF THE ONCOMING VEHICLE. WHEN I REALIZED THAT THE VEHICLE WAS NOT GOING TO TURN I FLOORED THE ACCELERATOR TO GET OUT OF ITS WAY. THE SIENNA SEEMED TO SLOW DOWN VIOLENTLY AS ALL PASSENGERS IN MY SIENNA LURCHED FORWARD, AND THEN THE TRANSMISSION FINALLY SEEMED TO KICK IN AFTER WHAT SEEMED LIKE A COUPLE OF SECONDS OF SITTING HELPLESSLY IN THE PATH OF THE ONCOMING VEHICLE, WHICH HAD TO SLAM ON ITS BRAKES TO AVOID COLLIDING WITH US. THIS ACCELERATION HESITATION COULD HAVE BEEN MUCH MORE DANGEROUS IF THE OTHER DRIVER HAD NOT BEEN DRIVING DEFENSIVELY.*AK
end quote
I would say that the "hesitation" is definitely affecting all drivers on the road! It is not so great to have the "hesitation" during a emergent situation! However, it is a great so far that no one is injured due to hesitation! TOYOTA BETTER DO SOMETHING IN THE NEAREST FUTURE to fix the problem!
IMHO, making both left and right turns in Ontario, Canada are really dangerous... and sometimes it really needs the brisk acceleration in order to avoid the "T-bone" crash! Say if you drive a sedan get to an intersection then you plan to make a left turn, meanwhile, there is a SUV/van is also trying to make a left turn on the opposite side and it blocks your view. But you are unable to see there is any oncoming traffic, then you have to roll forward to see, say if a oncoming traffic car is like 100 ft away travelling at 50 mph toward you, then in order to avoid the crash, the hesitation must not play any part during this turn and require a brisk acceleration! Consequently, it is not acceptable to have hesitation!
The specs said 2.5" clearance from the floor with 110 lbf applied.
The "fast rattle" sound comes only for a second or so during the acceleration from a complete stop or while accelerating on an uphill.
The sound comes from the right side of the engine.
Apart from this the car runs great and is smooth.
Please comment on this as this is becoming an annoyance.
Thanks
We have taken it to two different dealerships and they have both said the fluids need to be topped off. Our most recent visit was only a month ago (the noise came back within 1 week) and the fluid levels have been checked and are fine. We are taking it back again this week.
Has anyone else had this problem?
How can I find any proposed fixes from Toyota?
CEC01
Forgive me if I'm oversimplifying, but it seems as though the electronic throttle/computer system is programmed to adjust itself to your driving habits and optimize emissions to meet ULEV 2 (some sort of government emission standard). But the time the computer takes to figure all this out is causing the delay.
I have no doubt that Toyota is aware and probably... hopefully... working on a solution. Fixes to the Lexus have had mixed results.
Here are a couple of articles I stole from the Avalon Forum:
http://www.post-gazette.com/pg/04345/424551.stm
http://www.post-gazette.com/pg/04343/423383.stm
My guess is that Toyota's challenge is to reprogram the computer to eliminate or reduce the delay while still meeting the emissions requirements. I think that Toyota has to meet the ULEV 2 requirements and that won't be sacrificed to fix the hesitation - if they can't do both. So I'm praying they're able to do both - and quick.
I'm going to wait for a while (not sure how long) and see what they come up with. But I'm already thinking about what to replace it with just in case. Meanwhile, will check back with the dealer periodically.
To those considering the Camry - take it for a good test drive. Specifically, simulate stop and go traffic by decelerating to less than 10mph and then accelerating again. Do this multiple times at different speeds under 10mph. Also recommend rapidly doing an accel-decel-accel (or vice versa) at any speed to see how it reacts (I've found this can confuse the computer - feels like it's saying "hey wait, I can't keep up"). [It might be fun to do this on a hot day with the windows up and no AC to see if you can get the salesman to lose his cookies.] I don't think these things will bother everyone, and if they don't bother you, it may be a good car for you, but I tend to be picky and they really bug me.
Good luck, if I hear anything more, I'll post it.
-Scott in NH
I don't know if this will help or not. I had a similar problem I was concerned about. The sound didn't sound like water but a loose plastic part that would "go back and forth" (in sound) whenever I would turn. My mechanic took me on two drives that proved to me it was my coins (quarters, dimes, nickels)sliding around in the change drawer making the sound come up through the air vent right above it. Take any coins out of your coin drawer and see if that's the problem. If not...I don't know what it is! Regards
Thanks.
engine noise seems a bit loud -- it's definitely
louder than the noise from our old 1996 Camry that has 118k miles on it!
Does this indicate a problem of some kind, or are the 2005 Camrys just noisier than previous models?
Thanks!
You don't say if you switched from a V6 to a 4-cylinder. I assume both cars had automatics.
I think the best way to check your car is to drive another new 2005 equipped just like it. If it sounds the same, then there's no problem
The latch plate were frequently being slammed to the lower part of pillar B when trying to close the front passenger/driver side doors... the main problem is that too much dents were created and paint chips off on the lower part of pillar B, and i have to open the door, manually wind it up, and close the door again! I found it's a bit annoying.
Any solution other than rewind it manually? lol
"Engine Hesitation (All makes/models)"
The light on the dash ( the one that has a symbol of a car with light coming from the rear of it) is on. It comes on when the brakes are first applied, and it stays on. The manual says this is caused by a brake light bulb being burned out - I have replaced both of them - what to try next?
Any idea where the relay is that turns this bulb ob the dash on, is?
******************* 01/09/2005
I just run into the same problem with my Tyta Camry 1999....the light bulbs are all fine. But the 'car light symbol' on dashboard doesn't go away....I even bled the brakes. I don't have the owner's manual.
"The light on the dash (the one that has a symbol of a car with light coming from the rear of it) is on. It comes on when the brakes are first applied, and it stays on. The manual says this is caused by a brake light bulb being burned out - I have replaced both of them - what to try next?
Any idea where the relay is that turns this bulb ob the dash on, is?"
************** (((((( ))))))) ************
I am experiencing the same problem...the light bulbs are Ok....
Any ideas?....Thanks.
"Drive by wire" is a piece of junk! I always find delay of throttle response.
It's a $150 yellow box in the trunk next to the power antenna.
This problem has been discussed before. PLease search all messages under "brake light."
Perhaps you're referring to Toyota's drive-by-wire technology as implemented in the current-generation Camry. Other implementations of this technology by other manufacturers haven't been as problematic (Honda Accord for example).
The Toyota Prius (along with several BMW's and Mercedes models )actually use brake-by-wire technology. The designs I've looked at online don't have any mechanical fail-safe or backup so...hmmm.
I purchased my 2005 Camry SE V6 on November 29th. I now have 1,400 miles on the car. I am experiencing the same problems as you.
When I try to accelerate from a slow speed (under 10 mph) there is a "jerk", and then the car takes off. To avoid the jerk, I have to really step on it.
Does this new Camry have an electronic throttle? This may explain the "lag time" and jerking sensation. I have owned several Toyota vehicles, and this new 2005 Camry is the hardest to get used to. My 1995 4-cyl Camry was much quieter, much smoother, had more room, and drove a lot easier.
My 2005 SE is a great car. It has lots of power and handles well, but I cannot get used to the throttle. The pedal seems very stiff and hard to push. Also, I have lots of engine noise and road noise. I assume it is because of the powerful V6 engine and 17-inch performance tires. But I am disappointed. The car is very loud.
Good luck.
Coastdriver
Also, is there a free website with a list of codes and possible causes/solutions?
Thanks.
Not sure why you experience lots of engine noise when V6 engine should be much quieter compared with 4 cyl. For the road noise, mostly depends on type of tire, do you know your tire branch ?
It's definitely not a normal noise!
1. Nothing happens (no lights, no clicks, no turning over of the engine)
2. I get lights, but when I turn the key everything shuts down (lights) and the engine doesn't turn over.
I went through the owner's manual and looked at the fuse section. I noted their are 3 fuses that control engine starting. I located the Main 40 amp fuse in the engine compartment, and the ST 10 amp fuse behind driver's side kick plate; but I can't find the AM1 40 amp fuse that is supposed to be somewhere adjacent to the fuse box near the instrument panel (behind the coin box). I replaced the Main 40 amp fuse to no avail. The ST 10 appears to be good, which only leaves the AM1 40 amp.
Does anyone know where it is? and, if this proves to be OK, does anyone have any other suggestions?
Thanks
rcpjr
It seems odd that you started looking at fuses rather than the more obvious battery problem.