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Toyota Camry: Problems & Solutions



  • texasraetexasrae Posts: 1
    I own a 1995 Toyota Camry (4-cyclinder) and the 2nd to the right tube keeps popping up and disconnecting itself from the spark plug.

    1.) What is possibly causing this?
    2.) How do I get it to stay down?
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,721
    I don't think there's anything wrong with the car. You say it spikes "a little bit" and the car jerks "slightly."

    Is the automatic transmission downshifting or upshifting when you feel the jerk?

    A surefire way to tell if your car is abnormal is to test drive an identical one at the dealer (same engine and I assume you have an automatic transmission).
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,721
    It sounds like you'll have to replace the spark plug wires. If you've never done this, you may as well buy a good set, either from Toyota or in the aftermarket.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,721
    It's the "check engine" light. First, make sure your gas cap is securely tightened.

    If the light still comes on, you'll have to get the code read from the car's computer (see dealer or service shop). It could be any number of things, typically involving the emissions system.
  • OK this is really stupid - my new 06 Camry V6 is ready for its first oil change. So -- which side is the pan on? I see a pan-like thing on both the passenger and the driver sides, though one on the driver's seems to have only an Allen wrench nut. Thanks for your help
  • njeraldnjerald Posts: 689
    Take it in for an oil change. It's way over your head.
  • cam2003cam2003 Posts: 131
    Oil pan is on passenger side. You do no need to jack up the car to access to oil pan nut (14mm).
    Remove the oil filter is little bit tricky. Best way is to remove front heat shield (3 nuts) behind the radiator. Get the right tool to remove the filter otherwise you will have hard time to remove it.
  • Figured out pan is on passenger side. Also filter is accessible from on top! Don't have to remove anything either. So I'm good to go with good old Castrol. Thanks for your kind comment
  • bildowbildow Posts: 100
    sounds like you got a lot of help finding the oil pan I also have a 06 camry and I use mobil one synthetic oil in the motor found years ago my toyota's ran 300-450,000 miles on the mobil one and very little wear on the engine I also change my transmission oil every 20k and power steering 30k.Here is a tidbit on your 2006 camry I always leave the overdrive off in town so the transmission dosen't always having to shift into 5th and back to 4th I was told it's better to run in 4th leaving the overdrive off saving the clutch pack in the trans I don't know if this true but it does seem logical. Have you seen the new 2007 V6 camry goes like a bat out of ---- :shades:
  • wydrivewydrive Posts: 8
    Sincerely, thanks to your suggestion 210delray.
  • Hello mnazn82, my name is Daniel. Can you please tell me how to replace that starter contact, and where can I buy it?

  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,721
    I don't think it's necessary to turn off the overdrive in town. If you're going slowly, the tranny won't shift into 5th much anyway.

    I'd turn it off only when descending steep grades (as on interstates). You can also turn it off when going up hills if the tranny "hunts" between 4th and 5th.

    But actually, with the "grade logic" feature of the 5-speed auto, you don't have to downshift manually at all on downgrades. If you hit the brakes moderately hard while descending, the tranny will downshift automatically into 4th or even 3rd, if the hill is steep enough.

    Then it will stay in the lower gear until you reach level ground or you touch the gas pedal.
  • njeraldnjerald Posts: 689
    My '07 XLE 4 cyl will not shift into 5th gear until I reach 46-47 mph and the throttle is backed off so it eliminates the hunting in city traffic.
  • crv77crv77 Posts: 12
    I need advice from people who may have had similar problem. I have 2000 camry w/ about 130K miles and recently my transmission failed. The transmission shifts into reverse but nothing happends when you hit the gas. Took it to AAMCO and they quoted 1500-2000 for repair. What would you do in my position? Sell the car as is, repair it and sell it, repair it and drive the car another 100,000 miles or so, or donate it? Any thoughts. Also, this is a spare car as my wife and I have two other vehicles we can use to commute to work. Thanks in advance for any useful advice.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    It may be a toss up...if the car is say an LE (not a V-6) and in only "average" condition (a few dings here and there), it might only be worth about $4,000 with those high miles....on the other hand, with a bad transmission, it is practically worthless--maybe you'd get $750??. So if you spend $2,000 and sell it for $4,000, you are better off than selling it broken or donating it. The donation rules have changed and you'd get practically nothing for a write-off.

    You might also want a second opinion from an independent shop that specializes in Japanese cars.
  • crv77crv77 Posts: 12
    Thanks for the advice. But, Edmunds gives me a quote of $6227 for a "clean" appearance for a private party sale. So I think if I was to just sell it, I can at least get $3K for it, maybe a bit more.
  • leem2leem2 Posts: 6
    I would never recomend Altima over Camry. Had an 2.5S Altima for 3 month, but coudn't stand it. It's somewhat fast and stylish, but Camry build quality is far supirior.
  • Mr_ShiftrightMr_Shiftright Sonoma, CaliforniaPosts: 64,490
    Not with a bad transmission I don't think you'll get that....but heck, try if that's the way you want to go.
  • marcin2marcin2 Posts: 1
    I own a 2005 camry but i never compared my speed to gps because gps isn't a reliable mean of reading your speed. even the aviation approved gps units aren't perfect, there are errors. those gps units used by general public in their cars do not guarantee RAIM nor any specific accuracy. try double checking your speed by some other means, such as radar.
  • Hi
    I just joined today. Your post caught my attention. I have an 06 Camry XLE and wanted to ask you if your suggested steps turn off the annoying seatbelt chime permanently? I don't need a irritating reminder, I always use my seatbelts. Jim
  • Hello Everyone, I just joined Edmunds today. My 4 cyl 06 Camry has a very annoying transmission shifting pattern.
    I never had a car that downshifted and upshifted at random.
    Can anything be done to improve things? Grateful for replies. Jim
  • moeharrimoeharri Posts: 108
    It will still ding when you start the car w/o being buckled, but after that, the car will not ding if you follow those instructions. Good luck.
  • moeharrimoeharri Posts: 108
    Have you tried making sure your foot is far enough up the gas peddle? I believe in the Avalon forum they have the same type of complaint--they suggest making sure your foot is at least half way or more up the gas peddle. This seems to be why this is a problem for some people, but not others depending on foot position (I've never really had the problem on my 05 4cyl XLE).
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,721
    Also given the fact that the car has a 5-speed transmission, it's simply going to shift more often. It's supposed to be more fuel-efficient, but strangely my '04 Camry 4 with the 4-speed auto gets better mileage than my similar '05 Camry, but with the 5-speed auto, both in town and on trips.

    Little-known tidbit: Did you know General Motors reduced the number of gears in its Hydra-matic transmissions from four to three in the early 60s because people didn't like to feel the shifts? Fewer gears = fewer shifts. (Probably saved GM a few bucks per car too.)
  • rcmorellrcmorell Posts: 1
    I watched the Toyota mechanic do it on my 96 Camry ... He just popped it out with a flat-bladed screwdriver ... I thought it would screw things up, but once I saw it done, I was confident I could do it too .... (I can).

    good luck
  • marc781marc781 Posts: 25
    believe the dealer did not check sufficiently. Whether engine is warm or cold it rarely if ever has any relation to a brake problem.
    I think your rotors are slightly warped and also there maybe is a problem with your rotor finish, perhaps it has been damaged by wear and needs to be turned.
    Also perhaps you should try a different type of pad, maybe OEM type. If semi metallics or ceramic pads are what is on there now, they could make more noise under certain conditions because they are harder.
  • trainmantrainman Posts: 7
  • First of all thanx for reply that was very kind of u because I give up I didn't expect any one to answer me may be because I live in Iraq and there is no good cars service and not a good fuel we use so its hard to help us but we trying man, and second thing the information u gave me its very good and too much details so I can start with am gonna do scan again because I already change the spark plugs and many of these error it's been solved but I still got the traction control system problem so I will get with u as soon as I do scan and check all the Items that u asked me to check and last thing if there any way to thank u just tell me I can get u any thing u want from Baghdad and thank u so much
  • bhfbhf Posts: 3
    Query: I have a new '06 and love almost everything about the car. BUT I dread driving any distance because of discomfort from the seat belt buckle on the driver's side. The seat belt isn't extended anywhere near its limits, so tightness isn't the problem. I've driven over thirty years and have never had any problem with a seat belt before. At this point, I put a double sheepskin between me and the buckle, but who needs this with a new car! I talked to Toyota service, and they say that's just the way it is. Has anyone else had this problem; and if so, what did you do?
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,721
    Please turn off the ALL CAPS.

    If people are whizzing by you, they're not going 5 mph over the speed limit, probably more like 80 mph.

    I have no personal experience with a GPS unit, but I've read that these aren't necessarily spot on for measuring true speed.

    Similarly, those radar signs are going to underreport your speed by 2-3 mph if you're moving at highway speeds, because by the time you get close enough to the sign, your car is traveling at an angle with respect to sign (that is, you're not heading directly toward the sign).

    I'd use a stopwatch (or any watch with a second hand) while cruising at a steady speed, using the highway mile markers. If you go an indicated 60 mph, you'll pass the markers at exactly 1 minute intervals. Any discrepancy from 1 minute per mile will give you your speedo error.

    It's best to do this for 10 miles at least, because an individual marker may not be perfectly placed, and/or traffic may force you to vary your speed a little at times.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,721
    Whatever you do, please don't stop wearing your seat belt.

    I tried my car ('04 Camry LE) to see what you were talking about. Interestingly, the belt buckle and latch plate don't touch my body at all. I can stick a finger or two in the space.

    I didn't try my '05 Camry XLE, but the seat in that car is exactly the same, except for the fabric pattern.

    One thing I noticed is that if you raise the seat cushion, the buckle stays put, so it's effectively lower. So, I was wondering if you can raise the seat if that would help.
  • bhfbhf Posts: 3
    Thanks for checking your seat belt. Don't worry; I will wear a seat belt no matter what. If you have a chance, would you check your '05. I have raised and lowered the seat, and you're right, the buckle is lower. But, it's still rubbing. Given the huge nembers of '06 Camrys on the road, I keep thinking that there must be something wrong with my buckle apparatus, but such stuff is subtle, and the dealer isn't a believer in my problem.
  • clemson1clemson1 Posts: 3
    I recently changed out the 2.2L engine on a 1997 toyota camry with a 2.0L off a 1999 Rav4. Also switching the exhaust manifold, intake manifold, and oil pan. I got it to start, but the head is not receiving oil from the oil pan. After running it, the oil is still as clean as when I poured it. Is my problem an oil pump? If it is, where is it located? Is it the same for both models and how do I change it out? Any help would be appreciated.
  • kiawahkiawah Posts: 3,666
    Sounds like you put in too deep of an oil pan, and the oil level isn't high enough to be picked up by the pump.
  • clemson1clemson1 Posts: 3
    The oil pan is the same size on both models and the dip stick shows plenty of oil so is there something else?
  • kamalrajkamalraj Posts: 1
    I recently, drove 800 miles and the car (Toyota Camry LE 2000 4 cly) was fully loaded with my luggage and stuff. The car had trouble pulling that much weight. I did not have much problem in my entire journey, or may be I did not pay much attention to the engine of my car while travelling. But after completing my journey, I get a burnt smell even after drive a couple of miles with out any load in the car.

    Is there anything wrong with my engine? The engine Check light is NOT ON. Is there anything that I need to worry about or look into, to make sure everything is fine with the engine.

    Any help would be appreciated. Thanks!
  • njeraldnjerald Posts: 689
    Who the heck out here knows!!!!!!!!!

    Take it to a mechanic.
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,721
    At a minimum, check the oil. You may need to add some.

    While you're under the hood, you might want to check if oil or other fluid has leaked or spilled onto the engine.
  • Funkyshuffle
    I'm having the same problem and have tried to get the check engine light to clear out. My vehicle is a 95 camry V6 with 204k miles and at 201K the check engine light came on. The error code is unsufficent airflow EGR error. So now I've replaced the catalytic converter, EGR valve, EGR solenoid and EGR sensor but still no change. Now they are thinking that the vacuum switching valves need to be replaced. Any suggestions?
  • 210delray210delray Posts: 4,721
    I checked my '05 Camry's seat belt this morning, and it's no different than the '04's: I can stick my hand between the buckle/latch plate and my body.

    But on my '98 Nissan Frontier with a bench seat, the buckle and latch plate DO touch my body, but not to the point of being uncomfortable.

    Back to the Camry, I think if you're a large-framed person (not necessarily overweight, just big-boned), you are going to be wider across the hips than I am, and you will touch the belt buckle.
  • razvanrazvan Posts: 2
    My new 2006 Camry makes a turbine-like high-pitched whining noise from the engine area when slowing down/decelerating from ~35mph to stop. The noise is not present when I accelerate or in neutral, only when slowing down. Any ideas what might be causing the whining noise?
  • marc781marc781 Posts: 25
    Secret warranty? I dont know, but doesnt seem likely. If the engine has no problems, id leave it the heck alone. I have a 2001 solara same engine and no problems with gaskets. Unless i had a problem it doesnt matter if there are secret warranties. If it had gasket problems they'd be mentioned in a service bulletin anyway and you can check online for those.
  • marc781marc781 Posts: 25
    They had an oil sludging problem with earlier V6 engines, maybe thats the reason.
    I change my oil ever 2,000 or 3000 anyway and hopefully i will not have a sludging problem. I dont know anyone that drives so gently they qualify for 7,500 mile oil changes unless you want to use mobil 1 oil. That oil is unlikely to ever form sludge.
  • ray_h1ray_h1 Posts: 1,134
    "The oil pan is the same size on both models and the dip stick shows plenty of oil so is there something else?"

    Sounds suspiciously like your "new" engine's oil pump lost its prime. Have the car towed to a competent mechanic to check this out. If the engine is run more than a minute or two without oil pressure, you'll be looking for another replacement engine.
  • scoti1scoti1 Posts: 676
    I believe that is why they changed the interval, due to the sludge problem. But it also affected the 4cylinder engines (1997 - 2001 are covered under the Toyota sludge policy). I agree with you on oil changes, but Toyota stated clearly in their manual that almost all driving conditions should change their oil at 7500 with just a few conditions specifically described needing 5000 mile oil changes. This was a big mistake that Toyota obviously realized and made changes. They still blamed the owners for the sludge even though they followed Toyota's own recommendations. The sludge policy now pays for sludge and reimburses those inappropriately charged for sludge repairs, as long as they can prove they "properly" maintained their engine.
  • tommyg12tommyg12 Posts: 158
    On the '04 and up convertibles there is a semi-flat black trim piece installed between the trunk and base of the back window. The third brake light is mounted within this trim piece.

    I just happened to notice that the black paint has started flaking off around the corners of the brake light. This is obviously going to spread across the entire piece of trim.

    I'll get the dealer's response during my upcoming service, but just curious if anybody else has noticed this issue? My car is mostly garaged and has never been to a high pressure car wash, so something either went wrong with the paint and/or application of.
  • Hello

    I too have the same issue. But the cause of the light is different in my case. So how did you handle your problem and which mechanic shop do you recommend...
    i would appreciate your help
    - pjay..
  • bildowbildow Posts: 100
    I saw your answers for helping keeping the sludge down in toyota's I have found that a lot of people only drive a couple miles a day say 1-3 miles day after day this will also build sludge due to the fact they don't get all the oil to go thru the oil filter and help clean up the sludge. Also your car when turned off at night builds up water inside the motor and most people don't drive enough to get all the vapor out of the motor. I was told by the best toyota people to drive my car at least 1-2 times a week a good 20 miles on the open highway to clean out the water vapors and filter the oil which I do I was told about synthetic oil such as mobil one these are good to keep down sludge. take your car and give it a good 20-30 mile drive once or twice a month. :shades:
  • bildowbildow Posts: 100
    check your engine for sludge then have someone check your plugs and plug wires if they check out then check the rotor and distributor cap to see they are worn out. If your plug wires and rotor and distributor haven't been changed in a 100,000 miles change all three and possible you might change the plugs use platinum type from NGK for toyota's they last about 60k miles. The way to check for sludge is to open your oil cap look inside if the oil is a clear brown your are ok if the oil is milky looking or looks thick and goopy and if it turns out to be sludge try putting new oil and filter and go for good 100-150 mile drive Saturday morning this will help clean some of the sludge replace the filter after getting back it will be full of sludge do this a couple of times it might just clean the engine to last a while. :sick:
  • jerryh66jerryh66 Posts: 1
    My mother (600 miles away) has a 2005 Camry 4 cyl, auto; purchased new 1 year ago; lives in a rural area, she is 80, a trip to the dealership is a fun thing to do.

    The car problem: about 6-8 times, inconsistent, the door locks will lock themselves after the car has been parked, key removed, exit the vehicle without locking the doors. Later, minutes or hours or not all, the doors will lock themselves.

    I do not know if the problem is that they are doing this OR
    that they should be doing it ALL the time.

    Any suggestions would be appreciated.

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