Subaru Crew - Cleaning Interior & Exterior Surfaces

ateixeira

I wonder if anyone's tried "paintless dent removal" yet, thay could help.

I've used Resolve for other clean ups (doggies) and liked it too. Not in my car, but still.

-juice

myforester

I'd like to ask what the general feeling out there is regarding vinyl protectants such ArmorAll & other similar products. I have always assumed they were a good thing for the dash and so on, but I've been told they also cause problems as well. Any opinions?

ateixeira

I had a 1980 Datsun 210 back in 1990 or so. So the dash was 10 years old, and very dirty.

Cleaned it with Armor All and it looked great, UNTIL it sat in the sun for a day, and then developed a crack right down the middle of the dash.

I was so #@$%ed off I can't even tell you.

I can't scientifically prove that it caused it, but 10 years it's fine, and in one day with Armor All it cracks?

That was enough evidence for me to stop using it.

-juice

abhidharma

I haven't had the bad experience Juice has had, but I think he's still on to something.

In the past when I've used Armor All, I've ended up with a misty, foggy front window that is difficult to get clean.

I'm guessing that there's some sort of nasty, chemical-leeching process going on, that's probably not good for dash or lung longevity.

ateixeira

Just use a Swiffer, or a damp chamois. It ain't worth the risk to me.

-juice

PS ash is right, I remember having to clean the windows afterwards

amishra

I wish i could take credit for the windows being messaed up with armor all ... but that ain't me juice!

ash

ateixeira

Apologies to you and to Randy, our resident Turbo specialist. I should've known better.

-juice

abhidharma

That's ok, juice.

I think we Canadians kind of look and sound the same, eh?

Must be the toques.



Randy

amishra

I've decided to store my OB for the summer, seeing as how I have my MX-6 out of winter storage. I walk to work, so I barely find time to drive a car these days, let alone 2. In the meantime, I'll save some cash on insurance.

It's going to be stored for 3-4 months in my garage. Anyone have any tips for storage. I plan to start it and drive it around a parking lot once a week. I would hope that would be enough?

-- ash

ateixeira

I recall being told to bump up the air pressure in the tires so they don't flat-spot. Go up to the highest the tires allow, say 39 psi.

I'd also put in fresh oil, or at least change it before de-winterizing it. Also make sure the fuel tank is topped off to avoid condensation.

Other than that, once a week is a good idea.

-juice

fudd2be

I would think that auto glass effectively filters out UV light (I have never gotton a sunburn despite an August sun beating down on my arm on a 6 hour trip with the windows closed), so applying all these things like armor all or even stuff formulated for motorcylces would seem to be a waste IMO. Of course motorcycle seats are exposed to the elements, so I could understand using something in that scenario.

It makes sense that dashboard damage occurs not because of UV, but because of the constant heat/cool cycling that is unavoidable unless you use one of those cheesy looking carpeted dash covers.

Thoughts?

-Howard

buchignani

I've been a waxing and polishing fanatic since my bike(r) days long ago. Here are a could of summary observations on waxes:

1. Carnuba and other natural waxes have zero long term life, especially if they have to face snow and ice. Reserve them for your good furniture.

2. Most of the multiple step systems are a waste of time on (high quality) clearcoated Japanese paints. The clearcoats are very tough. Sole rationale for using them on such vehicles would be if the car had suffered some special abuse.

3. Absolutely nothing generates as reflective a shine as Meguiar's Gold Class. It would be a great general wax for California. Here (north of Montana), it, like most waxes cited in this list, doesn't last at all through winter conditions.

4. The one wax that does last is Nufinish: not as reflective, but lasting and harmless to the finish.

5. Best strategy I have found to make waxes last is to 1) clean car vigorously, 2) rinse with a weak vinegar solution to remove the last of the soap and mineral residue, then rinse with water 3) duh, dry car, 4) let wax dry *thoroughly*: no problem here, but this can be a problem in high humidity areas, where it can take 4 hours, easily, and 5) go over the car a couple of times with a clean cloth after it appears visually that you have removed all the excess wax. Waxing again in a week definitely helps longevity.

Norman

buchignani

One additional waxing point: don't use the 'wax' option available in many coin-operated spray type car wash facilities--not if you want your hand-applied wax to last. All 'waxes'--and of course a lot of things called this aren't technically wax--are soluble in each other, so the soft, low grade carwash 'wax' can actually weaken the wax coat you've applied yourself.

Norman

ramon

i live in a cottage area with lotsa trees. when it's windy twigs, leaves, seeds etc rains down on my car! ok it get's stuck on the part below the wipers on that grill. how do i get them out? some of them gets' thru the grill on to the inside of hte car..... help!!!!

2ndwnd

>>4. The one wax that does last is Nufinish: not as reflective, but lasting and harmless to the finish.<<

Glad to hear an endorsement for Nu Finish, I've used it for many years and like it.

Dave

georgede

Ateixeira, this question is for you and all the
Acadia Green owners. Just got my new OBS for my wife and besides being warned about this color chipping too much, I went ahead with it. Have you
noticed any problems with your 98?? With this new
one, there are two small spots on the hood which it may be chipped. I'm afraid to scratch and make it worse. I may take to the dealer and show it to them.The car is only here 2 days. Anyway, what do you recommend to protect car from now on?? I been
reading about Zano and also have the Maguiers Gold
wax home. The car was supposely waxed by the dealer, but it could use a bit more shine (They probably do a very fast job.). Am waiting to here
from all of you.... Thanks..
georgede

ateixeira

Mine has held up well. I don't think wax will do a whole lot to prevent paint chips, though.

My advice is to choose your parking spot carefully. I like end spots, and I park way, way towards the outside. No door dings!

Also, avoid tailgating. To the contrary, allow plenty of space in front of you. This avoids stone chips and cracked windshields. It's also safer, and 2 out of 3 people that cut in front of you will at least wave thanks.

My Forester L has unpainted plastic cladding all along the bottom, and this has been a huge blessing. Easy to clean, resists scratching, holds up well. I love it.

Any other suggestions?

-juice

PS ramon: a shop vac, maybe? Needs to be strong, though.

myforester

A belated thanks to all those vinyl protectant responses. I appreciate the input and will hold off on those products.
Now, another question. What opinions do you all have regarding proper leather care. My Forester has a leather wrapped steering wheel & shifter,and I'm kind of curious what special care, if any, they may require. Thanks again!

ateixeira

I have both, but mine are aftermarket, not OE.

I actually haven't had to clean them, ever. Perhaps because I wash my hands like an anal-retentive and never eat in my Forester.

-juice

myforester

I am the same way.The no eating thing as been a source of great tension around our house. I guess I just one of those wacko Forester owners.

ateixeira

You should see my wife's car. I'm surprised it isn't infested with ants.

It's funny. I'm a slob at home but my Forester is impeccable.

Her car is one big trash bag, but the entire house is sterilized for the baby.

-juice

stuener

I also give the nod to nu finish, very easy to apply & remove.

denicee

Some people have a decent home but the dirtiest cars!I don't allow my kids to eat in the car (or the living room). This makes a BIG difference on how dirty my car gets inside, judging by how other people's cars look.It's much easier to keep it clean than to try to get it clean after a spill.
Denice

miksmi

Denice, Mind if I forward your post to my wife? It's funny you put it that way, because my wife allows eating in the car but is in agreement w/you (and me) on eating in the living room.

..Mike

dnickel

Although biased towards the Meguires products the information is very good.
http://www.vettenet.org/meguires.html

buchignani

Just got a (Cdn) 2001 Forester S-Limited (leather seats + Moonroof).

I haven't had to deal with leather seats before. Have used Scotchgard with excellent results on fabrics, but the Scotchguard now can elegantly ignores whether it can be used on leather. Putting some on a cloth and then applying it doesn't seem to cause staining.

Suggestions re: protecting the lether seats? Go for it with the Scotchguard using the above technique?

Norman

p.s. (an aside): General good quality aside, I've never seen more cheezy 'cloth' in a car than what Subaru is using for floor material in this model.

dnickel

Don't use Scotchguard on leather...
I also have a S Limited with leather.
The best product for leather is Lexol. Leather is skin - it needs oils etc. Lexol has products for cleaning and conditioning leather. You can find their products quality shoe stores and shoe repair shops. If you are in Toronto there is a store on Younge just S of Richmond that has it.
www.lexol.com

trioxys

after washing my new white Outback this week, I noticed tons of small, faint water spots all over the car, from either soap residue or maybe minerals in the water...? The spots don't rub out with a towel or chamois. Any way to get rid of them?

also, what's the best thing to use to clean the plastic lens that covers the guages on the dashboard?

buchignani

vinegar works well: take white vinegar ona sponge and go ober the car. Then rince with water. The remove all the water with a chamois or alternative.

Norman

Be very careful dealing with the clear plastic covering the gauges.It scratches easily. A feather duster would be best. For something stronger, use feather duster to get all the dust, then go over it very lightly--once--with a very soft damp cloth. You'll still get a few scratches, though.

luck11

If vinegar works...great. If not, try specially formulated clay bar. Several brands make them including Mothers, Mequires and Zaino. Not only will it remove spots, it will remove all other contaminants such as rail dust and industrial fall-out, leaving your paint silky smooth. You'll need to top coat with your choice of wax though.

amishra

I'll second the note on clay bars - they do a wonderful job in taking off heavy contaminants on a vehicle.

My girlfriend has a new Cavalier which had black spots on the hood. She tried everything to get them off, and nothing worked. Finally borrowed my clay bar, and to my surprise, the spots came off almost immediately. So they definitely work...

ash

ateixeira

I was wondering if it could be hard water.

Do you get hard water stains elsewhere (like in the shower)?

-juice

buchignani

This is where the vinegar works (although it also is useful for removing the last traces of car wash soap; the most common minerals in hard water are calcium and magnesium carbonate: pretty insoluble in water, but converted by the acid in vinegar into compounds that are fully soluble.

ateixeira

You must have a doctorate in chemistry. Thanks for the lesson!

-juice

skipd

Call me silly, but I'm unaware of what this claybar is that everyone is talking about. would someone be kind enough to explain it to me?

Also, any comments on what the best washing/waxing products are to use on dark colors, such as the blue ridge pearl color of my 2001 Forester? I love the rich appearance of this color, however, like black it shows dirt fairly easy.

Thanks,

Skip

torek

is this funny sticky stuff that is not actually clay at all. In conjunction with a clay-bar lubricant, it slides over the paint and sort of sucks out all the bits of dirt, tar, tree sap, brake dust, "rail dust" (bits of metal that come off the train wheels/tracks when your new car is sent on a train from the factory to get to the dealer near you), etc. They all stick into the "clay", which is just soft enough to keep them from scratching up the paint. Then you fold the clay over and stretch it out and get "clean" clay for more dirt-removing.

Claying is not required before waxing (or NuFinishing or Zainoing or whatever), but it turns an ordinary "nice finish" job into a "super finish" job. Apparently it should be done immediately upon delivery of a new car (before wax-or-whatever-ing) and then again about once every six months or a year or so.

I did it on my 9-year-old blue Integra (where it removed amazing amounts of crud, including some tiny spots of white paint that had somehow gotten onto it) and on my new Forester (where it got almost nothing). It is a LOT of work, but if there are little bits of stuff stuck in your paint, it makes a huge difference.

Chris

amishra

One of the other use of a clay bar is to generically remove oxidizized paint that has built up on the car's finish.

Typically a clay bar show a much better result on older vehicles, since newer ones don't usually have contaminants on the surface.

(Speaking of contaminants, my local Soob dealer was selling several discounted Legacy's and Outbacks last year apparently because the vehicles had to be repainted due to acid rain spots!)

-- ash

ateixeira

Just tried that pressure washer for the first time, and I absolutely loved it! It's an electric one, with only 1300psi (gas washers offer much higher pressure), but it was more than enough for me.

I first rinsed it off and washed the undercarriage and wheels (you can adjust the nozzle for fine or broad spray pattern).

I then put car wash mix in an adaptor provided, and it sprays out foam directly onto the car.

Here's the manual labor part: I then hand washed the surface, but it was much easier because I didn't need a bucket - the cleaning solution was already applied.

Finally, I reconnected the pressure nozzle and washed it off.

It was very, very fast, about 15 minutes for both cars! This way I can wash it every week, no excuses, instead of spending hours once a month or so. It had been about two weeks, including a road trip to the beach, so I was impressed.

They do sell an attachment with a brush, but I'm afraid that may scratch the paint. What do you guys think?

It's a Campbell Hausfield model, and was only $100 at Wal Mart. Heck, I pressure washed my deck and patio while I was at it, and it's already paid for itself.

-juice

PS Note: it's better for cars and decks than it is for patios - the patio would have been faster with more pressure.

echase1

Greetings;

Looking a used OB (auto). Can you recommend a year and what are the major differences between model years? Is it reasonable to expect to find one with about 50k on it for 15,000? Thanks!

ateixeira

Ethan: the 95 had the 2.2l engine and was really an option package for the Legacy. In 96 came the 2.5l engine and more differentiation from the standard Legacy (raised roof, I believe), but that engine required premium fuel.

That is why I would recommend a 97 or newer model. All have the 2.5l engine that run on 87 octane fuel. That was also the year it got a bump in performance up to 165hp (previously 155).

Still, if you find a bargain on an earlier model, they still tend to be reliable and are recommended by Consumer Reports.

If you don't need the ground clearance, you could stretch the budget a bit and get a Legacy L for around $18k, not far from your target price, and it's a new vehicle with a 5 year powertrain warranty.

-juice

PS If anyone's curious, here's a link to a similar pressure washer for $90 plus shipping:

http://www.chpower.com/

Go to Hot Buys, then Pressure Washers.

jerrys2

I used premium for the first 30 months, when I planned to get a 2000 I changed to regular, which I used for the next 7 months. I did not notice any difference ... performance, mileage or otherwise. A friend of mine used regular in his '96 exclusively for over three years and experienced no problems.

ateixeira

Good news, I guess. Perhaps the ECU retards timing to prevent pinging, but I wonder if you lose any power.

Guess not, at least not significant, since neither of you noticed anything.

-juice

myforester

Juice-
Thanks for the report on the pressure washer. It sounds great! A couple of questions: What kind of "car wash mix" did you use? Can you use any kind of soap? Also does the washer make much noise? I live in an area where that could be an issue.
Thanks!

ateixeira

I used a car wash concentrate, I forget which brand, though. I watered it down to about half strength, since the deck wash was not as thick and I didn't want to clog it up.

It is loud, though. It has a piston to build up pressure, which only operates when the nozzle is open but does make a bit of a racket. Not as much as gas washers, so you don't need ear plugs, but still a bit loud.

The good news is you can do the whole car in less than 15 minutes. Most of that is prep time, extension cord, hose, etc.

-juice

luck11

Juice: glad you like the pressure washer. I would stay away from those synthetic brushes. They will most certainly scratch your paint, or at the very least, creat those aweful spider-web lines in your clear over time. When I'm driving, I always notice cars that are washed in automatic car washes...they have a haze of fine spider web scratches on the surface caused by the brushes in the carwash. The brush you speak of won't be as bad, but I suspect it will scratch none-the-less. i would suggest you use a natural fibre wash mitt.....either 100% cotton (made in USA) or pure wool. I picked up a pure wool mitt a few months back and it works great. They key to a scratchless surface is lots and lots and lots of suds....suds will act as a lubricant and a barrier between your washing instrument and the surface of the vehicle. Choice of instrument will depend on your priorities...if time is precious, then you may be willing to risk the possibility of scratches. Good luck!

ateixeira

That's actually what I've been using, so I guess I'll stick to it. Mine's also wool.

It does lather up nicely, too. Just have to rinse it off frequently since it picks up all the debris.

Nothing like elbow grease!

-juice

PS If possible, I'll try to get some pictures of the washer at work

kate5000

Hi,

I used AutoFoam wax from Blue Coral for years on my -- now old -- Subaru Loyale'92. I liked AutoFoam a lot: very easy to apply, reflective, lasts long enough and produces an _incredibly_ silky smooth surface. But I cannot find it anymore (checked PepBoys, Kragen, W- and K-marts). Do you know if AutoFoam was discontinued, and if yes what would you recommend? I already tried Gold Class from Meguire's and it was OK but IMHO not as good as AutoFoam, and did not last long.

Thanks!

Kate

ateixeira

Sorry, Kate, haven't heard of it.

I did get those photos of the pressure washer, though. I'll work on the web site and post them here.

-juice

ateixeira

As promised, here's the scoop:

http://thejuiceman.homepage.com/care.html

The car wash I could not remember was called Rain Dance. It claims to have wax built-in, but you'd never know. It does clean well, though.

-juice

luck11

Hey Juice....like the Nokia hands free! Is this the basic one that simply plugs into your lighter socket and has built in mic and speaker or is the full blown, hard wired system with separate mic and speaker? If the former, how many elbows?

I have the Nokia 6190 and saw one of these locally. I tried it but did not work because of the location of the lighter socket (ie basically in front of the shift lever). I need two elbows instead of one.

If you don't mind me asking, how much did you pay and where did you purchase?

Thanks.