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Comments
I'm still fiddling with it. Right now it blocks the radio display, but it's easy to rotate out of the way, and back. Too low and it hits my knee, too far forward blocks 1st gear, too far away and I can't reach the buttons to dial.
That's the CCM model, it retails for $70, though the speaker gets scratchy. OK for casual use, not for business use (go full bore). Nokia also makes one for $80 which may be a bit better.
Here's the clincher - I got it and the extension for $25 at mobshop.com, though that was an auction that closed soon thereafter.
-juice
I too swear by AutoFom. Used it on my 91 Accord. I believe AutoFom has been taken off the market. I read another e-mail thread that some users claimed that it damaged their paint. I had no such problems. I haven't seen it on a store shelf for about 2 years. It was great for winter waxing because it did not freeze. This is the paint sealant that Dennis Weaver advertised in the infomercials. My friend used it on bathroom porcelain surfaces. He says that toothpaste would slide off the sink. When the Accord was parked outdoors, an application every 6 months protected it. I'll have to try Zaino if indeed Autofom is off the market. I use to apply wax in between Autofom applications. Autofom is a paint sealant like Zaino, not a wax.
I've lived in New Jersey, Florida, North Carolina, and now Missouri. I've never seen or heard of Menards.
Dave
For the record, I haven't heard of them either (MD/DC/VA).
-juice
and yes now that I'm a quasi owner, I'm reading these posts as well, Mary
Ross
Anyway, if you can help, the very first thing I want to do with my car is remove the "Outback Sport" off each side, I'd also like to remove the pinstripes and other stickers. I did this to my last car as well, but I wasn't as concerned about the paint, so I used lacquer thinner and acetone for the more stubborn spots--don't want to use them on my 97.
Mary
Dave
Where did you get the touch-up paing? Did you have to go to the dealership to get an exact match?
I've got a couple of annoying small chips in my black 2000 Outback I'd like to repair....
Thanks,
Mike
Mary: I removed the "AWD" stickers on the rear windows, the enormous air bag warnings from the glove box door, and the dealers' stickers on the exterior. Do it ASAP, and it's easier.
I used a razor for the window (only!) to get it started, then it peeled off. You can clean off any left over goo with bug & tar remover, just make sure to clean it later and not to leave any residue.
The others peeled off nicely, so I didn't have to use any heat or chemical cleaners.
-juice
I have used Nu Finish for years because Consumer Reports had top-rated it years ago. It has worked well, but I hate the stink it leaves on my hands for two days. I have also had nice results with Liquid Glass; smells nice, but it is very expensive. CR recently tested car polishes again and concluded there is no best choice for everyone; it depends on your paint color, how often you polish your car, how hard you like to wotk etc. I bought some highly-rated 3-M Cleaner and polish based on its strong cleaning ability on light colors and good results in gloss improvement (CR found that some polishes actually dull finishes). I used it on my '97, which had been previously polished only once or twice, and the results were incredible. It was easy because it's one step; you just rub it in as you apply then switch to a buff cloth for each panel, rather than the traditional "wax on, wax off". It has no bad smell and isn't terribly expensive. Like virtually all 3-M products, this one is extremely good. The only downside is that, according to CR, it does not provide as long-lasting protection as some of the other products.
I had one of those premium-fuel-requiring '96 2.5's and rarely put in premium during the three years I leased it. I did notice a slight difference in get-up-and-go when I used premium, but the knock-sensor will retard the timing and prevent any damage, at least in the short-term. I have read that you should always use whatever octane the owner's manual recommends. The knock sensor retards the timing to prevent knocking, but also reduces power and fuel economy, and can lead to a buildup of residue on the valves over time with prolonged use of 87 octane. I used it in mine because it was leased and I knew I wouldn't do harm in 45,000 miles (and obnoxiously, didn't care if I did), but if I owned it, I would always use premium. The improved performance, slightly better mileage and peace-of-mind would justify the extra few hundred bucks a year. I factor the fuel requirement into the decision of what car to buy. The switch of the 92 to 87 requirement for the '97 played into the decision to BUY the '97 I currently drive.
Ross
-juice
And for the true enthusiast, see these valve stem caps with Subaru logo.
Info based on an i Club post by SubieGal (Jamie) (and yes, she really does auto-cross).
Whew, six embedded URLs in one post.. I'm bushed!
..Mike
PS - Crossposted in > as >.
..Mike
Yep, just go to the parts counter and tell them what color you need. With older cars they may ask for the VIN to help them find the right stuff. It comes in a little bottle, with a small brush built into the cap, sorta like nail polish.
Dave
-juice
Uh, specify color.
-juice
PS Nice thing about the Forester L's plastic cladding - no touch ups required so far.
..Mike
..Mike
Ouch, sounds like you need a tube. At least it's on the cladding, and not sheet metal. I'd still touch it up.
There's something to be said for unpainted cladding! I'll admit it doesn't look as good, especially in some colors (while the monotone Foresters and Legacys are gorgeous), but it is functional.
-juice
contumelious -- insolent, reproachful.
Thanks, Dr. Mike!
Randy
Kidding.
-juice
When I can't think of a word, I dive into Microsoft Bookshelf and hello thesaurus! Hyperlinks in a dictionary and thesaurus are definitely a practical use of "technology" -- I can entertain myself for eons! I love learning new words (but I quickly forget them so I'm always poking around the dictionary). When I think Bookshelf is running too fast, I use dictionary.com; here are some definitions: contumelious anonym.
"insouciant" might have fit, but "Blithe lack of concern; nonchalance" wasn't quite the right definition (though it has a wonderful pronunciation), the person that dinged the door might have been carefree but I needed a stronger word.
I can't remember the name of the other linguaphile here (come forth, come forth!), but for those that are, I recommend subscribing to AWAD (A.Word.A.Day). It's a quick read and a wonderful way to start your day. And it's only A word a day!
Glad you enjoyed it, Randy.
Cheers,
..Mike "Dr. Thesaurus"
..Mike
I think it's really worth searching and paying extra for an exact match (fading excepted). If Darlene above has it, that's the way to go.
My local Sherwin Williams automotive paint shop used to mix the paint and put it in spray cans and a touch up bottle for an exact match. It was a great service, but they don't want to do it anymore. They will still mix a pint or more if you need that much.
Mary
Mary
For those who, like me, have a penchant for the printed page, I recommend "The Synonym Finder" by J. I. Rodale. Also, if you can find it, "Mrs. Byrne's Dictionary of Unusual, Obscure, and Preposterous Words" is ... well, you can imagine. :-)
(I myself would not use "contumelious" in the above situation -- it implies a direct confrontation. We cannot know whether said anonym was belligerent or merely insensible. But I digress.)
Chris
Hope I have time to clean the Soob up on Friday. I'd like to mount the new rims and take some nice pics.
Though we're off to the beach for another road trip, so it'll just get dirty again. Oh well, it's supposed to, right?
-juice
Chris, logophile (not linguaphile) was the word of which I was thinking but couldn't recollect. Thanks for the reference recommendations (hey, that's an alliteration, though weak). And thanks for catching my misapplication of contumelious; your dictionary has a better definition than Bookshelf. Touché. My blunder wasn't sufficiently egregeious to qualify as a solecism. Nor was it a lapsus calami: I didn't slip, I made a mistake.
In writing this discourse, I encountered this delicious alliteration: hysteron proteron. As a fellow compu-dude, you'll appreciate my new word for "legacy" application:
Mortmain: the often oppressive influence of the past on the present.
Hahaha. Been there, done that?
Goodness, I've become (some might assert "remain") logorrheic.. signing off.
..Mike
..Mike
I paid about twice that.
This is my first post to any of the Subaru forums. Thanks partly to the posts I've read in these groups in the past month, I purchased my '00 Outback Limited last week, and I couldn't be happier!
-Lee
What should I apply to exterior finish, to protect paint from losing gloss? Anyone knows about Prolong Paint Sealant? They claim it will keep paint glossy for years w/o waxing...
What about vinyl (protection from sun)? I live in sunny California, and on my old Subaru'92 a few pieces of vinyl trim close to windows discolored over time.
Any other helpful hints of what to do with a new car, to keep it nicely looking? It's been 8 years since I bought my previous car, and many new car care products came on the market since then.
Also, if anyone has good suggestion on windows tinting, I'd appreciate them! I want to go with professional tinting shop, but don't know which film to get. I guess, market leaders are Madico and 3M films... any opinions on which one to choose?
Sorry, so many questions at once... but I really love my new 4-wheeled baby, and want to care for it well.
Kate
Congratulations on your new vehicle. Here's a couple of tips for keeping you Forester looking great:
Exterior:
I'm skeptical about the paint sealants dealers try and sell you. In my opinion, there is no substitute to frequent washing and waxing to keep your paint looking new. The sealant, at best, would put a thin layer of clearcoat like material on your vehicle. However, no 'coating' is scratch-resistant and you'll probably end up needing to wax the vehicle anyway.
Instead of throwing hundreds of dollars into a paint sealant, go and buy a good car shampoo, a wool wash mit, chamois, terrycloth towels and a cleaning/wax system. Some good brands are Meguiar's, Mothers, 3M and Zymol. People will tell you certain brands are better than others. Try out a couple and find one that you like.
I live in Northern CA and I've adopted the following routine for my black 98 Forester S:
- Dust vehicle using California Car Duster daily
- Wash every week ~ two weeks
- Use a cleaner/wax every month ~ 1.5 months
- Do a full cleaner/polish/wax once every 6 months
- Promptly remove any bird droppings and bugs using Meguiar's Quik Detailer spray
Interior:
Sunlight is the worst offender of interior fading. Since you live in CA, I'd suggest getting your windows tinted with a high quality metalic film from 3M or Madico. Both are very good brands. Shop around since tint shops prices can vary quite a bit.
Get at least all the windows behind the driver tinted. You can also get the driver and front passenger side windows tinted with an extremely light tint that's designed more to cut UV rays. Also, buy a window shade and use it even on cloudy days.
Hope this helps!
Ken
I figure out from some previous posts that you live in the Bay Area -- and so do I. I have to commute to work 35 mi one way to Silicon Valley every day (down 880, what a horror), you probably know what it means ;-(.
With a family (2 kids) and such a commute, unfortunately, no way I can spend as much time cleaning and waxing the car as you recommend, so I'm looking for an easy way out!
I meant not the dealer's paint sealant stuff, but a paint sealant kit by Prolong sold by autosupplies stores ($14.99). I wonder if anyone's
tried that stuff. I'm afraid to use something that can possibly harm the finish, but it might be a great product, who knows.
Thanks again,
--Kate
I formerly used Clear Guard. This Turtle Wax product is mostly silicone oil. It lubricates, cleans (as an oil, it can dissolve grease and tar) and possibly protects. It also attracts dust, then evaporates and leaves a black film on the inside of the glass (and probably your lungs). These days, it's hard to find. Turtle Wax says they still manufacture it, but they also seem to be pushing toward newer products like Formula 2001 Protectant with UV protection.
I've recently switched to the Formula 2001. It seems to last much longer than other products. I put it on my wife's car, and after 2 months of parking in the sun, the vinyl still shines. It doesn't attract dust like the Clear Guard.
I agree that a non-glossy surface it probably desirable, but I am willing to endure the glare if a "protectant" is reflecting UV rays.
Ultra Violet light can really make things look old before their time.
-gearhead4
P.S. I have used NuFinish on the paint for years with good results, but it does seam to leave a slight haze on the Timberline paint on my Legacy.
Oh boy. You must live in the East Bay. Yes, I know how bad that can be. I've done the 880 commute before and it was enough to force me to move over to the Penninsula. The 280 is a much better commute.
Sorry about the confusion. I read that you had a new car so I immediately assumed you were looking into a sealant job.
If you're pushed for time then going to a car wash is not a bad alternative. Choose the 'Hand Wash' or 'Touchless' types. I've seen several around the El Camino area in Silicon Valley for $8-10.
cleaning and waxing the car as you recommend, so
I'm looking for an easy way out!<<
Nufinish twice a year will keep it looking shiney and make the water bead. I've used it on my last three cars and plan to keep using it. As for Scotchguard, good luck finding it, it's no longer being made.
Dave
BTW, it could be worse. I live in El Cerrito, and on those rare occasions when I have to go down to San Jose, I have to contend with the Eastshore. :-) (I-80 "westbound", i.e., going south, through Berkeley and Emeryville is permanently congested. You can hit a two-mile backup at midnight. I sure hope the change to the Cypress Freeway helps.)
Chris
My advice is to keep in clean first and foremost. Waxing is great if you have the time, and makes cleaning easier too.
Tinting is the best way to prevent fading of the interior. I have a 35% tint, and it keeps the interior cool, looks cool, and reduces glare.
A quick and easy way to clean the dash is the Swiffer cloths. Since you don't want to dedicate too much time, it ought to work for you.
I picked up a pressure washer for many purposes, but it makes washing the car quick and even fun. The water pressure alone does most of the work, but it also lathers up soapy foam and sprays that on. The only part done by hand is with a wash mitt, and it takes only a few minutes. I hardly even get wet any more.
Enjoy your new wheels.
-juice
Actually, I was lurking on this forum for quite a while and got the same PW from the same source as you recommended (even before I got my Forester).
Also, a purchase of $99 was much easier to justify with my husband than that of $25K, for some strange reasons :-).
Power washer proved great. I have much more fun cleaning cars, patio, driveway, and it also proved very useful to wash (outside) windows upstairs: just shoot'em up.
Tinting: already took Forester to the local shop in Hayward (Westint), also recommended by someone on this forum. I'm getting Madico metallized 20%, also on sunroof.
One problem: this new baby looks so clean and shiny, I'm afraid to drive it! Kept it in the garage so far, while getting around in the old loyal friend Subaru Loyale'92. Yeah, now you all can laugh at me...
Time for a nice wash.
-juice
- ash ('00 OB)
Gotta go wash it...
-juice
Got a couple of newbie questions for the detailing experts. I apologize in advance if these have been addressed before--I'm still learning my way around the town hall and sometimes don't seem to find what I'm looking for right away.
Anyway, here goes. I've used Meguiar's cleaner/wax and also NuFinish paste on my car (silverthorn) over the past ten months, with pretty good results, except for the white stains on the dark grey plastic trim, and rubber window seals, etc. These seem to appear no matter how carefully I apply and remove the wax.
1. Can anyone recommend a product that will remove these stains without damaging, drying, or discoloring the exterior rubber/plastic/vinyl? (I don't want a shiny or oily finish.)
2. Can you recommend a wax or polish that is simple to use (not too many steps, not too time consuming) that causes a minimum amount of staining? I am considering Finish First--any feedback on the amount of white staining to expect, if any?
Thanks very much for your help.
Theresa
Anyone?
I have not actually had the problem myself and have not tried it, but I assume you want the smooth kind. :-)
I do recommend Zaino. The prep steps (which you should do before applying any wax or polish) take hours, but applying Zaino itself goes pretty fast. You just wipe it on, let it dry for an hour or overnight, and then wipe it off. It even smells nice.
Chris
Trick on next time you wax Forester and don't want to go this route again. take sheets of paper and slide in between the cladding and metal then fold down. this way wax goes on paper instead of trim. To protect the vinyl use 2001 Vinyl Protectant. It soes shine a little but it protects agaisnt UV and doesen't collect dust.