No, I didn't. The instructions were vague; they only provide basic photos. Perhaps I was supposed to?
Don't matter none. You can't tell, really. It looks fine the way it is, the flares cover everything, and it mounts flush against the paint (which was a pleasant surprise).
Sorry if I am beating a dead dog if this has been asked before, but what is the best cleaning supply I can purchase (whether from Subaru or from any old hardware store) that is good quality but cheap enough, to use for cleaning the top of the dash where it gets dusty? Also, I had my "first spill" this week, when some iced coffee spilled on the passenger seat. We have some Gonzo at home; is something else better for the cloth seats?
It's probably best to avoid any harsh chemical cleaners on your dash since it's plastic. I like to use a simple damp cloth or one of those "Swifter" sheets.
Gonzo is not a bad choice. Actually, any sponge soaked in mild detergent should help. If it's really stubborn, you could try a wet/dry vac too.
The key to any spill is to treat it quickly. Try to pick up as much as possible. If it's gooey, I scrape it off with a spoon, then use paper towels to absorb the rest. Then I treat it with upholstery cleaner.
I have dogs that get car sick and a baby that gets fed in my Forester regularly (against my wishes), and this has worked for me - the interior is still spotless.
Let's see, it's almost a day later so if you haven't already my advice is useless!
In my continued effort to a) make Howard famous and b) ensure that Howard's much-appreciated efforts at posting useful information* don't go unnoticed, please allow me to refer you one of Howard's gems at <10</A>>, way back up at the top. Select "see all responses" (just below the topic description, near the top of the page), then search with your browser (Ctrl in Internet Explorer or Netscape) for "chamois". You will find multiple testimonials for what shall henceforth be known as 10Howard's Genuine Leather Chamois Dash Cleaner®Clubs, a heretofore royalty-free product. (Howard made up that name, so don't blame me for it's ungainliness.)
..Mike
* Contrast that with, ahem, mine.
PS - Howard, I'm still trying! Post something here and again, will ya? Don't let juice hog all the fame!
PPS - Ari, apologies if I'm being to forward with my "humor".
After I washed my car, what's the best way to dry it out nicely? I know chamois are recommended and used by many, but it looks to me that you need tons of chamois, to collect all that water from the car surface. And chamois are expensive.
I get around by using old bed sheets (that are torn and not used in beds anymore).
I use just one leather chamois and wring it out. It seems to work better if you wet it first, wring it out, then use it to dry (for all I know that's what you're supposed to do). I unfold it, grab it at the corners (if cows have corners), and drag it across the plains of the hood, roof, doors, and windows. Soaks up gobs of water quickly. I'd be concerned that anything else (like bed sheets) would scratch the paint. Just my USD 0.02.
I've tried it all and the best and quickest method I've found to dry my car is by using a leaf blower. Go from front to back, done in 5 minutes, no fuss no muss. Years ago when I started using the blow dry method, my neighbors would often give me strange looks. Guess what? Most of them use their blower more on their cars than on the garden. I also have a Harley with lots of chrome and little hiding places for H2O. The blower does an outstanding job on the Hog too!
I like a synthetic chamois called the "Absorber". I bought one in 1989, when I bought my first new car, and I'm still using it. You store it damp, in the plastic tube it came in, and it doesn't get moldy. You can wash it in the washing machine, too. No affiliation, of course.
I tend to switch between a chamois and terry cloth towels when drying my Forester. The one thing that I will always use is the California Car Blade. It's basically a very soft silcon squeege that you can take directly to your paint. I speeds up the drying process immensly.
Never heard of the California Car Blade but my variation on the squeege is to use a spare winshield wiper to remove excess water prior to drying with a chamois.
Juice, You really should consider getting Subaru to contract you out for designing and writing the part installation instructions for all of the options and parts. Greg
Greg, LOL! Juice is quite the automotive encyclopedia, isn't he? It's great to have someone this knowledgeable and prolific on this board. BTW He's on vacation until next week.
I still am here - but you guys are so thorough, I have little to add! Still lovin' my '00 OB - 12K on the odo now. Now I am starting to think of the '02 Forester to replace my wife's Civic that goes off lease in that time frame!! decisions, decisions!!
Glad you're still present and accounted for. Now that juice is on vacation, everyone stands a chance to contribute
I have an unsolicited comment about replacing your wife's Civic (we and our spouses have Subaru/Honda rides reversed, and you got the better deal). I keep cars around 10-11 years, more if I can (though usually my wife makes me part ways when the paint becomes unseemly). I'd really like to grind one into the ground and achieve beater status but that's not in my wife's cards.
Our last two cars were a 91 Legacy L wagon and 93 Civic LX sedan. We sold the 91 to my neighbor and bought the 00 GT wagon; I still drive the Civic. With cars this close in age (2 years), I was replacing major consumables (brakes, exhaust, tires) more often than my budget preferred (not to mention the transportation downtime). Next time around I'll try to space it out to a 5 year difference.
I'm trying to wait for 2005 until I replace the 93 Civic. That is, assuming the paint lasts long enough to suit my wife. Hopefully, North America will have the turbocharged Legacy B4 RSK by then. Hehe, I am delusional. Well, maybe at least something turbocharged. Yes, if life was as easy as Lucien trading cars in GT2.
Anyway, good to hear from you and good luck on your decision.
And thanks for the vote of confidence, Kutt! I have the new STP short shifter, and guess what - NO instructions! Yikes! I may get help for this project.
Back from the beach, the Forester (now christened "Sandy" given her commanding performance at the beaches of the OBX) was absolutely FILTHY!
Sand in the carpets, filthy windows inside and out, sandy seats, messy dash. You could almost see the salt.
I ran the vacuum, and it worked with the crevice tool.
The inside windows are OK, but the windshield still has streaks. The air from the beach is salty, humid, nasty. Any tips? I have window tint, too.
Swiffer was not enough for the dash. It was almost wet and salty. Had to use one of those cleaner/degreaser things. Seemed to work well, but I'll go over it again I think.
On the outside, a good pressure wash did the trick. Under carriage, too. Detailed the wheels, and wheel wells, which were full of sand, in every place you could imagine.
I know that others have probably asked this already, and I apologize in advance, but how soon should I wax the car, 2000 Outback, after getting it from the dealer. My wife already thinks I'm nutty and obsessive regarding cleaning it( have it 18 days, and cleaned it 4 times already, the last time myself), and I don't want to overdo it. The car was in the dealers showroom since March, so I assume the "6 week rule" mentioned earlier does not apply. A friend suggested waiting 2 months from when I picked it up before waxing it.
Also, how paranoid should I be regarding bird droppings on the car? I came home one day last week, saw the droppings, and ran for the nearest brushless car wash.
Third, there is a black streak on the bottom part of the car. I tried washing and scrubbing, but it is still there. Any suggestions? I am being too paranoid? I love the car, and want to keep it as beautiful as it is.
ASAP. Paint is fully cured after sitting around since March. Be very paranoid about bird droppings as they will etch the clearcoat. Although (unless there are too many) I would clean them off by hand, by first soaking them with water, letting them soften, then gently wiping off with a soft paper towel.
The black streak may be tar picked up from the road. Try some "Bug & Tar" remover in a very small area. If it works, finish the job, then wash the entire area with car soap and water.
Are there any products you would recommend over any other? When I attended Edmunds Live the car care instructor said to stay away from Armor-all products for the interior because it dries out the dash. I was just checking out the Zaino site as mentioned in an earlier post. Is that too much for this car? Tahnks again.
If it's just dusty and nothing spilled, I use a tack rag on all the plastic interior surfaces. If spills, warm water or sometimes very dilute Simple Green. Novus 1 Plastic Cleaner on the clear plastic gauge cover. Novus 3, 2 and 1 (decreasing order of abrasiveness) on scuffs on the kick panels and inside the tailgate, but those don't work as well as I'd like. What do you all use to get scuffs out of plastic?
I use Super Clean for stubborn stains on plastic interior bits. It's a cleaner/degreaser and generally cleans well.
Boy, I had the Forester up on ramps to install the short shifter, and there's still sand everywhere! I have to wash the undercarriage while it's up on ramps!
Any plans to post the short shifter install on your website?
Back on topic, I tried using 3M Imperial Hand Glaze to get some fine scratch marks out of my paint. That stuff works very well, for anyone who is interested. It does what it says it does -- brings back the deep showroom shine. As with any abrasive, you need to use it sparingly since it is taking off a very thin layer of clearcoat.
I think mine is Rain Dance, purpose-built car wash. But it leaves spots so I wouldn't give it my full blessing.
Speaking of which - I got the California dry blade Ken was talking about. I saw it for $25 mail order, but then Costco Wholesale had it for just $9.77 - so I was all over it.
Haven't used it yet, but I will next time and hope to eliminated the spots.
Wow, that's pretty darn cheap for one of those blades. Using it is straightforward. Just start at the top of you vehicle and make your way down. I make sure the blade is clean before every use since it comes in direct contact with your paint. Also, don't worry about applying some pressure on the blade -- it will squeak a bit, but the silicone is very soft.
I'm thinking about maybe getting a 2nd one and cutting vertical slits in it so I can use it on the section of the roof with the roof rails.
Kate, I use Meguire's Gold Class Car Wash Shampoo & Conditioner -- it's pH-balanced! (man I love marketspeak), but only because it was bundled with Meguire's Gold Class Clear Coat Car Wax (liquid) and a sheepskin washing mit at Costco. I have no opinion on either product. The only thing I've heard is that dishwashing liquid is too harsh on the paint, but you probably already know that.
I haven't heard of "no drying required" detergents. As in, you don't have to wipe off the water with a chamois to prevent water spots? Spock, please explain.
Ken - my solution for the roof is to go for a spin. Guess that air dries it!
I know what you mean, though. You've got a nice, dry vehicle, and then water runs down and creates streaks. I get these at the fuel opening, and at the back of most windows.
Oh boy - I better go measure the pH of my detergent! Maybe it leaves spots because it's pH balanced for a woman! )
When I run out of the stuff I have now, I'll try one of those. Even with the California Car Blade, I'm sure some spots will appear from residual water.
Comments
Don't matter none. You can't tell, really. It looks fine the way it is, the flares cover everything, and it mounts flush against the paint (which was a pleasant surprise).
-juice
Thanks!
It's probably best to avoid any harsh chemical cleaners on your dash since it's plastic. I like to use a simple damp cloth or one of those "Swifter" sheets.
Gonzo is not a bad choice. Actually, any sponge soaked in mild detergent should help. If it's really stubborn, you could try a wet/dry vac too.
I have dogs that get car sick and a baby that gets fed in my Forester regularly (against my wishes), and this has worked for me - the interior is still spotless.
Let's see, it's almost a day later so if you haven't already my advice is useless!
For the dash, Swiffer cloths are great.
-juice
In my continued effort to a) make Howard famous and b) ensure that Howard's much-appreciated efforts at posting useful information* don't go unnoticed, please allow me to refer you one of Howard's gems at <10</A>>, way back up at the top.
..Mike
* Contrast that with, ahem, mine.
PS - Howard, I'm still trying! Post something here and again, will ya? Don't let juice hog all the fame!
PPS - Ari, apologies if I'm being to forward with my "humor".
..Mike
I get around by using old bed sheets (that are torn and not used in beds anymore).
Any better ideas?
I use just one leather chamois and wring it out. It seems to work better if you wet it first, wring it out, then use it to dry (for all I know that's what you're supposed to do). I unfold it, grab it at the corners (if cows have corners), and drag it across the plains of the hood, roof, doors, and windows. Soaks up gobs of water quickly. I'd be concerned that anything else (like bed sheets) would scratch the paint. Just my USD 0.02.
..Mike
..Mike
Mike's right. Wet it first. I use my pressure washer, which also clean the debris from the last washing off the chamois.
I've also heard of people using newspaper. Odd as it sounds, he swears by it and it doesn't streak.
Finally, another friend blow dries his - not with a hair dryer but with a fast run on the highway!
-juice
Faye
-juice
..Mike
Ken
-Frank P.
Just make sure the wiper blade is clean.
Ken: do you wipe it off after each stroke?
-juice
Nope, I just shake it a bit. You should get one -- it really cuts down on the drying time.
Ken
-juice
You really should consider getting Subaru to contract you out for designing and writing the part installation instructions for all of the options and parts.
Greg
..Mike
..Mike
I still am here - but you guys are so thorough, I have little to add! Still lovin' my '00 OB - 12K on the odo now. Now I am starting to think of the '02 Forester to replace my wife's Civic that goes off lease in that time frame!! decisions, decisions!!
-Howard
I have an unsolicited comment about replacing your wife's Civic (we and our spouses have Subaru/Honda rides reversed, and you got the better deal). I keep cars around 10-11 years, more if I can (though usually my wife makes me part ways when the paint becomes unseemly). I'd really like to grind one into the ground and achieve beater status but that's not in my wife's cards.
Our last two cars were a 91 Legacy L wagon and 93 Civic LX sedan. We sold the 91 to my neighbor and bought the 00 GT wagon; I still drive the Civic. With cars this close in age (2 years), I was replacing major consumables (brakes, exhaust, tires) more often than my budget preferred (not to mention the transportation downtime). Next time around I'll try to space it out to a 5 year difference.
I'm trying to wait for 2005 until I replace the 93 Civic. That is, assuming the paint lasts long enough to suit my wife. Hopefully, North America will have the turbocharged Legacy B4 RSK by then. Hehe, I am delusional. Well, maybe at least something turbocharged. Yes, if life was as easy as Lucien trading cars in GT2.
Anyway, good to hear from you and good luck on your decision.
..Mike
..Mike
And thanks for the vote of confidence, Kutt! I have the new STP short shifter, and guess what - NO instructions! Yikes! I may get help for this project.
Back from the beach, the Forester (now christened "Sandy" given her commanding performance at the beaches of the OBX) was absolutely FILTHY!
Sand in the carpets, filthy windows inside and out, sandy seats, messy dash. You could almost see the salt.
I ran the vacuum, and it worked with the crevice tool.
The inside windows are OK, but the windshield still has streaks. The air from the beach is salty, humid, nasty. Any tips? I have window tint, too.
Swiffer was not enough for the dash. It was almost wet and salty. Had to use one of those cleaner/degreaser things. Seemed to work well, but I'll go over it again I think.
On the outside, a good pressure wash did the trick. Under carriage, too. Detailed the wheels, and wheel wells, which were full of sand, in every place you could imagine.
Any tips on the inside windows? They're filthy.
-juice
Also, how paranoid should I be regarding bird droppings on the car? I came home one day last week, saw the droppings, and ran for the nearest brushless car wash.
Third, there is a black streak on the bottom part of the car. I tried washing and scrubbing, but it is still there. Any suggestions?
I am being too paranoid? I love the car, and want to keep it as beautiful as it is.
The black streak may be tar picked up from the road. Try some "Bug & Tar" remover in a very
small area. If it works, finish the job, then
wash the entire area with car soap and water.
-Tony
Tony beat me to it. I would suggest the same thing.
-juice
Tahnks again.
Ironic that it's called "protectanct", no?
It's the only product I've had a problem with. The cleaners have been OK.
-juice
Keep in mind that automotive dash materials are much better these days, with better UV stabilizers built in.
-Tony
Darlene
Ed
Boy, I had the Forester up on ramps to install the short shifter, and there's still sand everywhere! I have to wash the undercarriage while it's up on ramps!
-juice
Any plans to post the short shifter install on your website?
Back on topic, I tried using 3M Imperial Hand Glaze to get some fine scratch marks out of my paint. That stuff works very well, for anyone who is interested. It does what it says it does -- brings back the deep showroom shine. As with any abrasive, you need to use it sparingly since it is taking off a very thin layer of clearcoat.
Ken
-juice
Speaking of which - I got the California dry blade Ken was talking about. I saw it for $25 mail order, but then Costco Wholesale had it for just $9.77 - so I was all over it.
Haven't used it yet, but I will next time and hope to eliminated the spots.
Ken: any tips on how to use it?
-juice
Wow, that's pretty darn cheap for one of those blades. Using it is straightforward. Just start at the top of you vehicle and make your way down. I make sure the blade is clean before every use since it comes in direct contact with your paint. Also, don't worry about applying some pressure on the blade -- it will squeak a bit, but the silicone is very soft.
I'm thinking about maybe getting a 2nd one and cutting vertical slits in it so I can use it on the section of the roof with the roof rails.
Ken
I haven't heard of "no drying required" detergents. As in, you don't have to wipe off the water with a chamois to prevent water spots? Spock, please explain.
..Mike
..Mike
I know what you mean, though. You've got a nice, dry vehicle, and then water runs down and creates streaks. I get these at the fuel opening, and at the back of most windows.
Oh boy - I better go measure the pH of my detergent! Maybe it leaves spots because it's pH balanced for a woman!
-juice
juice -- so is yours a boy? ;-)
Ken
..Mike
..Mike
-juice
I've never tried it, but Blue Coral has a "self dry" car wash. Here's one.
Ken
..Mike
-juice
Actually, I owe her a good undercarriage washing. There's still sand in there.
I'll put her up on ramps on Friday when I install my 18mm sway bar, and wash it then.
-juice
I think between my S+ and your L we could get at least plain S... or maybe L with moonroof.