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Comments
Don't matter none. You can't tell, really. It looks fine the way it is, the flares cover everything, and it mounts flush against the paint (which was a pleasant surprise).
-juice
Thanks!
It's probably best to avoid any harsh chemical cleaners on your dash since it's plastic. I like to use a simple damp cloth or one of those "Swifter" sheets.
Gonzo is not a bad choice. Actually, any sponge soaked in mild detergent should help. If it's really stubborn, you could try a wet/dry vac too.
I have dogs that get car sick and a baby that gets fed in my Forester regularly (against my wishes), and this has worked for me - the interior is still spotless.
Let's see, it's almost a day later so if you haven't already my advice is useless!
For the dash, Swiffer cloths are great.
-juice
In my continued effort to a) make Howard famous and b) ensure that Howard's much-appreciated efforts at posting useful information* don't go unnoticed, please allow me to refer you one of Howard's gems at <10</A>>, way back up at the top.
..Mike
* Contrast that with, ahem, mine.
PS - Howard, I'm still trying! Post something here and again, will ya? Don't let juice hog all the fame!
PPS - Ari, apologies if I'm being to forward with my "humor".
..Mike
I get around by using old bed sheets (that are torn and not used in beds anymore).
Any better ideas?
I use just one leather chamois and wring it out. It seems to work better if you wet it first, wring it out, then use it to dry (for all I know that's what you're supposed to do). I unfold it, grab it at the corners (if cows have corners), and drag it across the plains of the hood, roof, doors, and windows. Soaks up gobs of water quickly. I'd be concerned that anything else (like bed sheets) would scratch the paint. Just my USD 0.02.
..Mike
..Mike
Mike's right. Wet it first. I use my pressure washer, which also clean the debris from the last washing off the chamois.
I've also heard of people using newspaper. Odd as it sounds, he swears by it and it doesn't streak.
Finally, another friend blow dries his - not with a hair dryer but with a fast run on the highway!
-juice
Faye
-juice
..Mike
Ken
-Frank P.
Just make sure the wiper blade is clean.
Ken: do you wipe it off after each stroke?
-juice
Nope, I just shake it a bit. You should get one -- it really cuts down on the drying time.
Ken
-juice
You really should consider getting Subaru to contract you out for designing and writing the part installation instructions for all of the options and parts.
Greg
..Mike
..Mike
I still am here - but you guys are so thorough, I have little to add! Still lovin' my '00 OB - 12K on the odo now. Now I am starting to think of the '02 Forester to replace my wife's Civic that goes off lease in that time frame!! decisions, decisions!!
-Howard
I have an unsolicited comment about replacing your wife's Civic (we and our spouses have Subaru/Honda rides reversed, and you got the better deal). I keep cars around 10-11 years, more if I can (though usually my wife makes me part ways when the paint becomes unseemly). I'd really like to grind one into the ground and achieve beater status but that's not in my wife's cards.
Our last two cars were a 91 Legacy L wagon and 93 Civic LX sedan. We sold the 91 to my neighbor and bought the 00 GT wagon; I still drive the Civic. With cars this close in age (2 years), I was replacing major consumables (brakes, exhaust, tires) more often than my budget preferred (not to mention the transportation downtime). Next time around I'll try to space it out to a 5 year difference.
I'm trying to wait for 2005 until I replace the 93 Civic. That is, assuming the paint lasts long enough to suit my wife. Hopefully, North America will have the turbocharged Legacy B4 RSK by then. Hehe, I am delusional. Well, maybe at least something turbocharged. Yes, if life was as easy as Lucien trading cars in GT2.
Anyway, good to hear from you and good luck on your decision.
..Mike
..Mike
And thanks for the vote of confidence, Kutt! I have the new STP short shifter, and guess what - NO instructions! Yikes! I may get help for this project.
Back from the beach, the Forester (now christened "Sandy" given her commanding performance at the beaches of the OBX) was absolutely FILTHY!
Sand in the carpets, filthy windows inside and out, sandy seats, messy dash. You could almost see the salt.
I ran the vacuum, and it worked with the crevice tool.
The inside windows are OK, but the windshield still has streaks. The air from the beach is salty, humid, nasty. Any tips? I have window tint, too.
Swiffer was not enough for the dash. It was almost wet and salty. Had to use one of those cleaner/degreaser things. Seemed to work well, but I'll go over it again I think.
On the outside, a good pressure wash did the trick. Under carriage, too. Detailed the wheels, and wheel wells, which were full of sand, in every place you could imagine.
Any tips on the inside windows? They're filthy.
-juice
Also, how paranoid should I be regarding bird droppings on the car? I came home one day last week, saw the droppings, and ran for the nearest brushless car wash.
Third, there is a black streak on the bottom part of the car. I tried washing and scrubbing, but it is still there. Any suggestions?
I am being too paranoid? I love the car, and want to keep it as beautiful as it is.
The black streak may be tar picked up from the road. Try some "Bug & Tar" remover in a very
small area. If it works, finish the job, then
wash the entire area with car soap and water.
-Tony
Tony beat me to it. I would suggest the same thing.
-juice
Tahnks again.
Ironic that it's called "protectanct", no?
It's the only product I've had a problem with. The cleaners have been OK.
-juice
Keep in mind that automotive dash materials are much better these days, with better UV stabilizers built in.
-Tony
Darlene
Ed
Boy, I had the Forester up on ramps to install the short shifter, and there's still sand everywhere! I have to wash the undercarriage while it's up on ramps!
-juice
Any plans to post the short shifter install on your website?
Back on topic, I tried using 3M Imperial Hand Glaze to get some fine scratch marks out of my paint. That stuff works very well, for anyone who is interested. It does what it says it does -- brings back the deep showroom shine. As with any abrasive, you need to use it sparingly since it is taking off a very thin layer of clearcoat.
Ken
-juice
Speaking of which - I got the California dry blade Ken was talking about. I saw it for $25 mail order, but then Costco Wholesale had it for just $9.77 - so I was all over it.
Haven't used it yet, but I will next time and hope to eliminated the spots.
Ken: any tips on how to use it?
-juice
Wow, that's pretty darn cheap for one of those blades. Using it is straightforward. Just start at the top of you vehicle and make your way down. I make sure the blade is clean before every use since it comes in direct contact with your paint. Also, don't worry about applying some pressure on the blade -- it will squeak a bit, but the silicone is very soft.
I'm thinking about maybe getting a 2nd one and cutting vertical slits in it so I can use it on the section of the roof with the roof rails.
Ken
I haven't heard of "no drying required" detergents. As in, you don't have to wipe off the water with a chamois to prevent water spots? Spock, please explain.
..Mike
..Mike
I know what you mean, though. You've got a nice, dry vehicle, and then water runs down and creates streaks. I get these at the fuel opening, and at the back of most windows.
Oh boy - I better go measure the pH of my detergent! Maybe it leaves spots because it's pH balanced for a woman!
-juice
juice -- so is yours a boy? ;-)
Ken
..Mike
..Mike
-juice
I've never tried it, but Blue Coral has a "self dry" car wash. Here's one.
Ken
..Mike
-juice
Actually, I owe her a good undercarriage washing. There's still sand in there.
I'll put her up on ramps on Friday when I install my 18mm sway bar, and wash it then.
-juice
I think between my S+ and your L we could get at least plain S... or maybe L with moonroof.