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Comments
I'll put it in 1st to use engine braking on a hill or in snow. I'll also put it in 1 or 2 in snow as well so that I don't need to hit the brakes and can use the engine braking to slow down.
-mike
Ash: sweet design! Frames, graphics, video and all. It took a while to load up, but it's worth the wait.
Daniel: you must have had the Dana rear. Jeep dropped that supplier after many complaints.
Torque at 1200rpm (or less) is pretty low, though. I prefer manuals anyway.
Mary: you don't have to, but it pays off in the long run, 'cause it's much easier to wax it now vs. cleaning off baked-on brake dust later.
-juice
I'll wait and do the hitch and the diffy protector together. On the Forester, you have to remove 3 exhaust brackets to install that. Impreza/Legacy owners have it easy - the exhaust does not interefere.
Igor: the baby doesn't have to understand - it's just so she can stare at the stars!
All this talk about autos makes me appreciate the control a manual lends you even more. Long live the manual tranny!
-juice
Stephen
I have to say though, that in all of the years that my father and I have done this though, we have never ruined a tranny. I guess the Japanese and German built ones are just more durable (?).
Drew
According to Motorweek the best color would be flat white and the worst would be silver metallic.
As for paint colors, I read somewhere that almost all auto paint today is metallic (or contains metallic compounds). Anyone else know the answer?
Ross
My last two cars were put to rest at age 17. They both had flat paints, one "desert tan" and the other "avocado green". By age 13 or 14, I affectionately called the first "bleached beach" and the other "guacamole".
Got more of the pinstripes off my 3 year old white car yesterday and while it's barely noticeable I can see some signs of fading on the rear fender or maybe it just needs wax.
Mary
- Amishra: Please, I've been myself a Chevrolet victim ('98 Blazer), and the difference between Subaru and them is enormous.
- About that trailer hitch, I've heard that the 2001 Forester has a bigger distance between the wheels. Do you think the mounting points are the same, or the hitch is different?
- For the automatic questions, I do have a Forester with a Power button, and is the best way of engaging a lower gear, and giving some more power. It has a light on the panel. Tell this to Patti, the lady of SOA.
- I have a question about the AT myself. Torek in his homepage says that the AT in 1st and 2nd gear splits the power 50:50, and in 3rd and 4th the split is 90:10, front to rear. May you confirm it?
-mike
KenS: there are still a few non-metallic paints, as well as the new "pearl" paint finishes (some whites), and even the chameleon paints on some Fords. They're progessively harder to apply and touch-up, though.
Mary: you're paint names cracked me up. Keep it coming!
Centavo: the rear track is wider, but I doubt that affects the mounting points for the hitch. I'll check the instructions when they arrive, to see if the same thing also fits newer Foresters.
I believe our friend torek is right about the auto's AWD system.
-juice
As far as the auto trans., I'm pretty sure it's 90/10 in all gears and adjusts up to 50/50 depending on wheel slippage . This, of course, is more likely to occur in 1st and possibly second gear. I can't imagine a situation where this might occur in 3rd or 4th, unless you do some ice or snow racing.
My guess is it revs higher in Neutral (probably 1200rpm to 900rpm or so), and that accounts for the "jolt" described above.
-juice
The torque converter is spinning freely in neutral.
-Colin
Stephen
PS: Juice, we still have you beat on the hills (not sure that this is a good thing though) ;-)
That means I can hold 2nd or 3rd longer on turns and hills, for power exiting a turn or torque to pull me up.
In other words, I can shift less.
-juice
One word of caution to those who shift their A/T into neutral during long stops -- make sure you're in Drive and not Reverse when traffic starts moving again. It's easy to confuse the two. I've seen one guy in a freeway traffic jam stop, put it into neutral and when traffic began moving, reverse into the car behind him.
Stephen
-mike
The number is: E7710FC200MF--Brush Guard Gray
This should help Darlene know which brushguard you want.
~~~Pat
~~~Pat
Stephen
Hmm, what about a manually adjustbale switch for the AWD power split, a la WRC?
How do I deal with traffic? I switched to an earlier schedule to beat the rush. That way I can post more, oops, I mean, work harder.
-juice
FYI
Black part number is E7710FC001VF
Gray part number is E7710FC001MF
It is black in the center of the top and the center of the bottom. The rest of the brushguard is titanium (gray). It looks great on our S model Sedona red monotone with the special rims and I think it would look great on centavo's red and titanium pearl Forester.
The number that I posted was for the two color brushguard.
~~~Pat
-juice
I am brand new to this board but have been reading it for awhile to help me with "the new car decision". I went from a new Toyota pickup (to replace the 11 year old one that I was driving - great vehicle!) to maybe a Honda or a new Ford but thanks to your enthusiasm, I settled on a new 2000 Outback Ltd. With so many happy people, it must be a great machine.
I have all of 500 miles on it but have a couple of questions. The first being, is there any way to turn off the daytime running lights if I want to? The manual says that putting on the emergency brake puts the lights out. It does but it certainly puts the brake on.
My next question is regarding xenon replacement bulbs for the standard headlamps. A site I looked at that sells Hella Optilux bulbs, states that if you have US DOT pattern headlamps, the xenon doesn't do much of anything for your increased vision.
Any feedback on these questions would be appreciated.
Thanks,
Harry
DRLs are a safety feature, so it may not be legal to disable them. I haven't heard of any successful attempts to do this.
Check out the Mods topic for a whole bunch of lighting advice. There are several upgrade options ranging from $20 to $150 for the pair.
-juice
I have the Hella Premium Xenon bulbs in my Forester and they are slightly brighter than the stock bulbs. When I installed them, I put in one and compared the light against the stock bulb against a wall and the light looked more intense and whiter. I do notice what seems like better lighting at night.
The reason why DOT headlights won't benefit as much from E-code headlights is that the beam pattern is not as refined. E-code headlights usually have sharper cutoffs so it places the light where it's more effective. However, irrespective of if you have e-code lights or not, the premium bulbs do have a higher output (due to the mixture of xenon gas) so you will percieve a difference even with DOT headlamps.
Whatever you do, stay away from the expensive heavily tinted bulbs that claim HID-like light. The light output on those things are dangerously low. The Hella Premiums are in a non-tinted quartz housing and cost around $12 each.
I was mainly asking because the place where I've started going for routine service/maintenance is Gillman Subaru here in South Austin, and I just didn't like to think they'd be chintzy enough to refuse a customer a front plate bracket. I haven't dealt with their service dept. much yet (the Forester is running quite solidly), but so far my experience with Gillman has been pretty good.
Hey, what happened to Hutch? You still out there. lurking???
Also, did we lose Patti?
The Hella Optilux 80/100w Xenon bulbs produce more low beam light whereas the PIAAs provide more highbeam light.
The PIAAs are about $70 whereas the Hellas are $27.50 I'd go with the Hellas if I were you.
http://catalog.com/susq/index.htm
Is a great place to deal with, he is one of the nicest retailers on the net.
I replaced the sealed beam headlamps with E4 fixtures and bulbs on my '88 XT6 and they made a world of difference.
In my Trooper I now have the PIAAs for summer driving, and the Hella Optilux for winter. And 100w H3 Hellas in the fogs.
Soon I'll have the Hella 4000 9" round 130w pencil beams on the nudge bar (which is what the bar on the forester really is, not a brush guard) of the trooper.
-mike
Cheers
Graham
Wow, that red really is sharp!
ash
Also in NYS our police use red lights
-mike
FYI, a license plate "bracket" is used to attach the front plate to the car. License plate "frames" are the dealer inscribed things that frame the plate and promote the dealership (until I get the car home and throw them in the trash). These frames do not attach the plates to the car. No bracket is needed on the rear; two nuts are built into the recessed area where the plate is installed.
lurking???
Thanks for asking ... I'm alive and well. Haven't forgotten about the "Sub'z on the Farm" this fall. Juice (on email) asked yesterday.
I think Pattie is out cruising around in an H-6 and has abandoned us. :0
Is anybody planning on going to "Edmunds Live" in D.C. .. any chance of getting together and going in force? I want to drive (play with) the competition.
- hutch
a. Some models actually have a switch to manually disable the DRLs (check the owners manual).
b. Some models use separate bulbs for the DRLs so they can be simply removed.
c. Some models you have to take to a mechanic to disable the DRLs by bypassing/disabling the solenoid in the ignition.
I suspect that OB falls into the last category. It certainly isn't illegal to disable the DRLs since there's no US law that requires them. However, the dealer probably won't do it for you out of potential liability concerns.
Frank P.
Is everyone getting the insurance discount for having a car equipped with DRL's? Our company (Snoopy) gives us a $10 or $12 discount every 6 mos. because the car is equipped with them.
-Colin
PS for graham, I got a good chuckle about the bright lights burning the tarmac-- I call my misadjusted "fog lights" flamethrowers. I don't burn the tarmac with other drivers on the road though, that would be bad form.
The reason why BMW's HID Xenon headlamps are particularly annoying is because overstimulation of retinal purple in the human eye by this very colour range messes up one's night vision for a fair amoutn of time even after relatively brief exposure. One would think that BMW would be able to design a less glaring HID setup since they were the first ones in the market to offer the lights, and hence have had the most experience.
Unlike US and Canadian regulators, European regulators recognize the danger presented by excessive headlamp glare, and so European cars with HID lamps MUST have dynamic auto headlamp leveling systems and headlamp washers.
Drew
Any idea of what the rational behind disabling the ABS with the hand brake is? Other than allowing "bootlegger turns" that is.
The handbrake locking the rear wheels or even slowing them down would confuse the ABS, so they just turn it off.
-Colin
FWIW, I've tried using the footbrake and activating the ABS simultaneously on my AWD Chrysler minivan. The ABS doesn't shut down, but the idiot light blinks on after a few tries. I take it this doesn't happen in your car? The ABS quits immediately after the wheels stop on my vehicles. No intense buzzing of the sort.
Drew
Not having ABS could be a nice thing...(i'm not a fan of Airbags or ABS)
I got the DRL discount on my Trooper (even though it doesn't have DRLs, my insurance co messed up I think)
The torque split on the A/T from what I've been told is 90/10 and can go to 50/50 if need be. On my XT6 it's 95/5 -> 5/95, There is conflicting stories about it locking in @ 50/50 on the new A/Ts in "1" and "2" if you manually put the car in those positions.
The M/T is 50/50 to start and can vary I think 10-20% in each direction.
-mike