We are aware of the login problems affecting the forums, and appreciate your patience as we work on a fix.
Did you recently purchase a new Tesla, Rivian or Lucid vehicle directly from the manufacturer and willing to share how your experience compared to previous vehicle purchases made through a traditional dealer? A reporter would like to speak with you; please reach out to PR@Edmunds.com by 2/19 for details.
Dodge Dakota - General Topic
This discussion has been closed.
Comments
Thanks in advance,
Dave
I read an article in our weekend local paper advising of a DC recall of approx 29,000 Dakota and Durango vehicles built between 2000-2004 for a problem with windshield wiper motors which has a tendency to rust out. The supplier name was not mentioned.
Has anyone heard of this before and is there a Recall Number on this yet?
THANKS
dataguru
But that didn't stop me from signing the papers tonight. Tomorrow I pick up my new Patriot Blue/Silver '04 Quad Cab.
-Dave
I like the looks of the Dakota Club Cab just as it is. This is the first vehicle I've owned in twenty years or better that I haven't put mud flaps on. Mud flaps would spoil the inherent good looks of this truck, in my mind's eye.
However, the absence of mud flaps has taken its toll. From the break line at the lower door downwards the paint along the sides has become chipped, including the leading edges of the wheel flares. These are very small chips, but there are now so many that they are becoming visible. The flares don't bother me that much: they're not metal, won't rust and paint repairs would be very simple.
I recently checked into having the lower portion of the body sprayed with chip guard in the body color (bright silver metallic), but I think I'll be faced with this again a few years down the road.
I don't particularly like step rails, but I recently saw a Dakota Quad with a set that were very dimunitive and did not detract from the Dakota's natural appearance. I think a set of step rails would save the lower body from continual chipping.
The ones I looked at today were way too wide for my taste. I don't like the chrome or plated look at all, so I think fiberglass or metal versions that could be painted are the ones that would interest me.
Does anyone have any recommendations on a step rail that is fairly unobtrusive?
Bests,
Dusty
http://www.etrailer.com/nerf-bars.htm
Ron
I have the factory-offered rails. They are a steel inner-box-frame covered with body-colored plastic. They bolt to existing FRAME holes. (cheep nerf bars will clamp to the body) They have rubber treads (simular to the what rear bumper has)
Mine have been thru 4 Vermont winters (plenty of road-salt) and they look like new. There are no visable parts that can corrode.
I just ran out and snapped this photo. (truck is dirty)
http://hometown.aol.com/peebs4u2/dak_running_bds.jpg
Hey, thanks for the quick replies and links. They both look great. Great shot of that handsome blue Dakota Bpeebles. Didn't look that dirty in the pics.
I was looking for a step that would perform primary function of a full length guard to keep stones and sand from being blasted against the surface of the rocker panel upward to about the break line on the doors. Since the step rails stick out a ways from the body, it looks like both types that you guys have will allow stuff to hit the painted surface between the rocker panel flange and part way up the lower door panels.
I stopped at Auto Finishers in Rochester this morning and the saleperson advised me of a 3M product which is a clear adhesive stone guard tape. It is the same product used on the Nissan 350 Z and other luxury cars. It would be cheaper than spraying the lowers with chip guard.
My only concern was turning yellow. He said it won't, but then again I was talking to a salesperson.
What do you guys think? Any experience with this adhesive stone guard tape?
Bests,
Dusty
Check out this website that sells the stuff. You can get it custom-cut ready to install or by the roll.
http://www.invinca-shield.com/main.htm
Wow! Hey, man, thanks very much. Yeah, that sounds like the stuff.
Best regards,
Dusty
Paste this URL into your internet browser and take a look. Rick
18.46 MPG
18.51
18.76
18.88
18.77
18.24
18.95
17.19
Current miles is 26617. No recent maintenance except of an oil filter. Bosch plugs at 10,000, air filter at 20,000 miles. Mobil 0W-30 oil at 23,000. Tires at 35 PSI each. Driving was light to moderate, very little expressway. Estimated average speed 50 MPH. Surprisingly a fair amount of stop & go around town, but all in 45 MPH speed zones. Lazy takeaways at stop signs and lights. Driving style best characterized as "patient."
Not a lot of air conditioning use during this period, about 10%. Last tank was no air conditioning, but had windows down. I actually think this influence MPG drop.
Bests,
Dusty
Central NY to NE Ohio (I-86/I-90) 16.5
NE Ohio to NE Indiana (I-90) 17.5
NE Indiana to NE Ohio (I-90) 16.3
NE Ohio to Central NY (I-90/I-86) 16.0
The same route was followed both times. The A/C was on most of the time. Suprisingly, the westbound trip had better mileage than the eastbound trip. I would have thought that heading into the prevailing wind would have produced worse MPG. As expected, the mileage was better in the flatlands of northern OH than the hills of central NY.
My highway MPG has been quite variable over the years. The low has been about 15 MPG to a high of 19 MPG. The average is right around 17 MPG.
Previous to that, the best I saw was about 18MPG.
(I do not have the 3.92 differentals. The 3.92 is lower-geared than the standard offering thus gives slightly worse MPG.)
Any comments appreciated.
krusty2
The trailer I am considering on buying is 2750 empty and has a gvwr 7000.
any recommendations would be helpful.
Thanks
Next, you will need a good weight distributing hitch setup with sway control. The Reese Straight-Line (aka Dual Cam) is highly recommended over setups that use the basic friction sway control. This will run about $450-$500 plus installation. If you really want to go all out, there is the Hensley Arrow setup, but that is over $2K.
I don't know what axle ratios you have in your 4x4 QC, but the towing capacity of the 3.55s will max out around 4800 lbs and the 3.92s will max out around 5800 lbs. So, towing your trailer at it's GVWR may not be a pleasant experience. Remember, these weights are for a single 150 driver and a QC with no options or cargo. To account for all passengers and your camping stuff, you could probably reduce these tow limits by 1500-1800 lbs. Also, it is quite easy to exceed the GVWR of your QC. Mine is identical to yours and it weighs about 5000 lbs, with no driver and a full tank of gas. The owner's manual lists the weight as much less. That only leaves about 1000 lbs for passengers, cargo, and the hitch weight of the trailer. It's a common problem on 1/2 class trucks.
http://www.pickuptruck.com/html/2005/dodge/dakota/first_drive/pag- e1.html
Let me know how you made out.
Thanks,
Mark
I BOUGHT THE TRAILER( IT IS BETTER THEN I EXPECTED), HAD A RECEIVER ADDED, BOUGHT A WEIGHT DISTRIBUTION HITCH, ETC. I ALREADY HAD THE EDELBROCK SHOCKS.
MY NEW QUESTION IS: DID YOU CHANGE YOUR THERMOSTAT?
Anybody have any engine problems / noise?
Thanks.
My first suspect is you have a faulty ignition computer (PCM as Chrysler calls it).
My advice is to take it back to the dealer.
Best regards,
Dusty
Any owners out there can give my some advice, info about their trucks?? good and the bad.
The trouble spots to look for are.
*)Front brakes are weak. Use the best rotors/pads you can find.
*)Shock absorbers are weak. I installed Edelbrock IAS and am very satisfied with improved ride/handling.
*)Upper ball joints are weak. Check them regularly BEFORE they break. (I installed MOOG brand with grease nipples)
Strong points:
*)4.7L engine is bullitproof. It should last a VERY long time.
*)Original Goodyear Wrangler tires have lasted over 60K miles and are STILL servicable. (they have poor traction though)
Like most US-made production vehicles from the big three, the Dakota has seen it's ups-and-downs with respect to assembly or component quality, probably more of the latter. Of the vintage you're considering there have been complaints about brake rotor quality and some suspension components (ball joints, shocks, etc.). Usually aftermarket replacement resolve these issues, of course. There have been a few comments in here about short differential life, but this problem usually shows up quite soon and I'd bet that these types of failures are the result of poor initial assembly or a component machining problem.
Since 1999, the newer the better. My 2003 was very well asembled and the only failed component at twenty-three months and 31,000 miles was a gas cap.
Best regards,
Dusty
My average for the last ten tanks of fuel has been 17.7. The last twenty tank average is 18.09. My daily commute is 5.3 miles one way. Most of my driving is around town or country roads where speeds are usually 50 MPH or less. I get some expressway driving, approximately 25-30% per tank. My high was 21.93 on Interstate 87 (old 490) carrying approximately 1200 lbs. of ATV and gear, using cruise control and never faster than 65 MPH. My driving is sedate most of the time.
If you get into a rush the fuel mileage drops precipitously. High speeds and start-and-stop driving will take its toll quicker on the 4.7 than the 3.9 or 3.7 V6s. Winter time driving drops my fuel mileage to the mid-fifteens, even lower in short trip driving. The lowest I ever got was 13.12 in the dead of winter with the ATV on the back the entire tank.
Best regards,
Dusty
My mileage continues to improve. This summer my average "everyday" driving mileage climbed from 14.3 MPG (last summer) to 14.7 MPG. My highway mileage continues to be in the 16-17 MPG range.
Let's hope the next 50K miles are as good.
My first suspect is the engine temperature sending unit or a bad connection.
Are all the gauges working okay?
Regards,
Dusty
Rig had the 45RFE tranny. 3.92 rear axle.
'11 GMC Sierra 1500; '98 Alfa 156 2.0TS; '08 Maser QP; '67 Coronet R/T; '13 Fiat 500c; '20 S90 T6; '22 MB Sprinter 2500 4x4 diesel; '97 Suzuki R Wagon; '96 Opel Astra; '11 Mini Cooper S
From '99 up, the newer the Dakota is the better it is.
Good luck.
Best regards,
Dusty
No.
Ron
You need to acquire a thin-walled spark plug socket. These are available at auto parts stores.
Good luck,
Dusty
Ron
Most folks that know about this stuff will tell you that "K&N" air filters filter WORSE than the stock air filter. (read... 'less engine protection') The weak argument that they "flow better" actually is the result of the worse filtering.
There is no reason on earth for an everyday vehicle to have an air filter that "flows better". The major restriction in the intake plenum is the throttleplate which spends VERY little time at WOT (Wide Open Throttle) Even if you were an aggressive driver and like to hold the throttle pedal on the floorbaord, a better-flowing air-filter would make less than a 1HP difference at the high RPM levels.
Save yourself the cost of a "K&N" air filter and change your paper filter every 30K miles. Even after 120K miles, you would still come out with more $$ in your pocket that can be spent on better goodies for your Dak.
I welcome anyone that wishes to discuss the physics of the internal combustion engine in relation to the intake airflow characteristics to dispute the above facts. (I would even discuss the addition of a turbocharger to the intake and its relation to the airflow)
Splitting the exhaust flow into 2 pipes after the cat actually is detrimental to performance in several ways. Not the least of which is the extra weight of the 2 pipes. On the 4.7L engine, it has been shown in dyno-testing that a single 2.5" may be the best. (Any larger looses the all-important "velocity" that is desired in a performance exhaust)
You need to ask yourself what you are looking for in a cat-back system. If you can please put the following into your personal order of preference, we may be able to guide you to a cat-bak system that best meets your needs.
*)Sound
*)longevity
*)looks
*)performance
Ron