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Dodge Dakota - General Topic
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The RAMs are nice trucks and I'm sure you will be very, very pleased with it. Everyone I've talked to with the newer RAMs have been exceptionally pleased with them.
Best of luck,
Dusty
The convertibles were made in 1989, 1990, and 1991
They were made in 4 and 2 wheel drive. there were 2800 made in 1989 and 1028 in 1990 and 9 in 1991. I have a 1990, it is a fun truck, I like you wanted one when they first came out, but with kids couldn't justify at the time. Mine came up for sale last year and I bought it. I got it from the original owner. The biggest problem is finding parts for them, some of the parts are getting worn and are impossible to find.
Oh well so much for history.
Bookitty
How does Consumer Reports predict reliability just based on reader responses? When the only basis is past history data, the only thing you might be able to demonstrate is trend. Perhaps the CU definition bears closer scrutiny:
"Predicted reliability is a JUDGEMENT based on our annual reliability survey data. New or recently redesigned models are marked "New." -- Consumer Reports Buying Guide, 2004, page 171.
A "judgement" based on survey data? I can't believe that the fine editing staff at CU couldn't be more explicit. The term "judgement" refers to a human condition, so it sounds like people are interpreting the data instead of letting the data speak for its self.
How did the Dakota and Mitsubishi Eciplse both get a "predicted" average when the Eciplse's individual years (2000, 2001) were rated worse than Dakota, and included SIX YEARS of "insufficient data?"
Regards,
Dusty
Knowing this is important because one can begin to understand the "bias" that is built into the CR reporting.
CONSIDER THIS:
Since CR has been touting Honda and Toyota as the best for many many years, the CR subscribers have, of course, been buying Hondas and Toyotas. Now, when the annual questionare goes out to all of the CR subscribers, guess which vehicles they tend to report on?
CONTINUING... if CR tends to poo-poo a vehicle in one of its tests... the CR subscribers, being the loyal buch that they are, will follow suit.
This is one reason that I do not put too much credance in the CR data. Do not get me wrong tho, the overall patterns in their data are pretty accurate. (If the data shows that the exhaust system tends to need replacement after about 4 years... it is often correct.)
The one that was really bad was on a Ford car (Torino, I think) in the seventies. Appearently there were an estimated few hundred cars with bad wheel bearings installed on the manufacturing line, so Ford recalled about 10,000 cars in order to inspect, find, and repair the defective bearings. Owners listed this as a "repair" even though only a few hundred were ever suspect. To make matters worse, CR gave that model a "black mark" that lasted for three years, until the model was dropped even though there were only a handful of reported problems with bearings after that.
When I look at our fleet maintenance reports and compare them to CR's "reliability data," they are sometimes 180 degrees different.
Regards,
Dusty
Has anyone tried this filter? Any comments?
Best regards,
Dusty
The base model front fascia and grille are gray. The rear bumper is black upper and gray lower.
The SXT has a chrome grille with gray front upper and lower fascia. It comes with body-colored wheel flares. The rear bumper is black upper and gray lower.
The Sport gets a chrome grille with the upper fascia black and lower fascia body color. The wheel flares are no longer standard. The rear bumper is black upper and gray lower.
The SLT has a chrome grille, chrome upper front and gray lower front fascia. The rear bumper is chrome.
The only body-colored grille is with the Stampede package, now a model variant instead of an option. This includes a full body-colored front fascia and rear bumper.
Regards,
Dusty
I know this for a fact as I have filled out and sent in this very device for 7 years now. Often the mindset of the participant as well as good or bad dealer service can influence how those questions are marked.
Suffice it to say, CR is ok at best, downright biased at worst.
This might explain why I haven't heard of any rotor complaints on newer Dakotas.
Dusty
One thing I noticed was an apparent increase in mpg after I replaced the factory air filter. Unfortunately the temperatures dropped precipitously soon after so that cannot be verified.
Regards,
Dusty
Robert
Bookitty
Sorry, I'm a Ford/Dodge guy. Never did like Chevys.
Good luck.
Although 99.99% of us have never met face to face, it is a loss, nonetheless, when "one of the family" leaves under these circumstances. Good luck with your next truck and may the "good" statistics be with you.
Replaced original plugs at 45k miles..now confirmed after 3 tankfulls of gas, that my avg has gone up from ~16.2 to ~16.8 mpg! Even using the OEM plugs, champions..Quick job, and didnt break the clips holding the water hoses over the intact manifold. Waiting for dry warm day(s) to change the rotors, as definitely needed. Be safe tonight!!
Ger, 2001 quad,4.7L - 3.92lsd
I have used NuFinish for a number of years on a number of vehicles. Although there have been others tested that appear to shine a little better, I have liked the NuFinish liquid product for the following reasons:
*very easy to apply
*fairly easy to remove after haze
*more durable and longer lasting than other products I've used
All things do not remain the same and having seen the recent ads for Turtle Wax Ultra Platinum Series I decided to try it.
Today was in the mid sixties here in Rochester, NY with overcast skies and sporatic drizzle. After a good wash I applied the Turtle Wax Ultra leaving the hood as my compare test (half NuFinish, half Ultra). With the exception of the hood this is the first coat of wax since last fall.
Comparatively the Turtle Wax Ultra is creamier in consistency. NuFinish liquid is as consistent as Pepto Bismol while the Ultra is more like yogurt. The Ultra goes on noticeably easier than NuFinish, but I found that it took longer to come to a haze. The Ultra appears to go on and come off with less labor.
My shine evaluation is subjective to my eye, but it appears that the Ultra seemed slightly better. It was most certainly not less shiny as the NuFinish. Even if it is, the application labor is less than NuFinish which has a tendency to go dry quicker. The Ultra appeared to have less friction when lightly dragging my fingers across the two finishes. One thing I noticed was the Ultra actually removed dried NuFinish from last fall around the "Dakota" and "Dodge" tape emblems on the tailgate and left no residue in its place.
We'll have to wait to determine which lasts longer.
(AutoZone)
NuFinish Liquid 16 ounces = $5.99
Turtle Wax Ultra Platinum Series 16 ounces = $7.99
Regards,
Dusty
Ron
http://www.zymol.com/phihome.htm
I tried that NU-FINISH stuff once.... the next rainstorm, it "bled" from the roof to the windshield which made night-vision impossible for months. (no chemical was able to remove the silicone residue)
UNDER NO CONDITIONS SHOULD PETROLIUM-BASED WAX (parafan)BE USED ON YOUR PAINT! (but it is great for candles)
Personally, I am looking for protection... not "gloss" nor "beading". Neither of these are very good measurments of protection or longevity.
I just picked up some Rain-x glass wax tonight and noticed that the shelf where the Zymoil was kept was completely bare. The counter guy at AutoZone said it's the best selling wax they carry, and the most expensive, too.
How does the Zymoil do for lasting?
Regards,
Dusty
As for "lasting", I have been using zymool on my Dak for several years. The dirt just falls off when it is hosed off. I do not use *beading* as a measurement of "lasting" but it is obvious that the zymol is still there after several months.
Interestingly, a sticker fell off my VW TDI this past winter exposing NON-zymoled paint. I found it very noticable that one area of the paint is ALWAYS more dirty than the rest of the vehicle. At first, I thought there was some sticky-residue on that area attracting the dirt but after a thorough washing to make sure, that area of the paint was dirty after the next rainstorm. My only conclusion is that the zymol on the rest of the car (applied last fall) is allowing the dirt to "shed" and not stick to the paint.
You may draw your own conclusions...
Anyway, has anyone seen something like this in any auto parts stores?
Thanks in advance,
Dusty
* Mobil One 0W-30 motor oil
* plugs changed at 10,000 miles
* air filter replaced at 20,000 miles
* no modifications from stock
My daily drive is 6.4 miles to work with a few miles each day on the company facility. There are approximately 5-8 restarts per day.
The last five tanks returned (in descending order) 16.68, 16.95, 17.34, 16.13, and 16.12 MPG.
The running total since the vehicle was placed into service is 16.42 MPG.
From 1 June through 15 October of last year, the average MPG was 17.1 (low 16.21, high 20.16).
Best regards,
Dusty
One suggestion. Just reciently, Mobil has started to repackage its "Delvac1" oil for consumer use. Anyone that knows oil can attest that Delvac1 oil is perhaps the very best engine lubricant available today. It has seen MILLIONS of miles of use in fleet usage. With proper filtration on an engine, this oil can easilly go over 30K miles between changes.
Now you and I can get this very same oil packaged in quart containers. It is called "Mobil 1 Truck&SUV 5w40" and is now on the shelves at Wallmart. The next time you are there, actually READ the bottle and see what I mean about this oil. It faaarrrr surpasses anything else on the wallmart shelves. (And costs the same as 'normal' Mobil1)
Besides, that 0w oil you are using may not be desirable for your engine. ;-)
Mobil 1 0W-30:
Viscosity @ 82F = 56cst
Viscosity @ 212F = 10.3cst
Pour point = -54F
Viscosity Index = 175
Flash Point = 234
___________________________________
Mobil 1 5W-30:
Viscosity @ 82F = 56cst
Viscosity @ 212F = 10.0cst
Pour point = -45F
Viscosity Index = 167
Flash Point = 224
____________________________________
The 0W-30 in Mobil 1 is the better oil. With a VI of 175, its actually more stable and has a higher viscosity at higher temperatures. In actuality the 0W-30 in Mobil 1 is nothing more than their 5W-30 with a lower pour point. This increases pumpability and ensures start-up and low temperature flow better than the 5W-30. The additive package formula will also increase moisture purging better than their 5W-30.
Unless I were to plan a summertime trip to Arizona or someplace hot, I plan on running it all year from now on.
Bests,
Dusty
In general I stay away from wide viscosity service numbers. I have never used 10W-40 because of stability problems, although newer blends have better numbers than they use to. Older 10W-40 formulations were the cause of premature sludge build up, especially in colder climates.
Looking at Mobil's specifications, the thing I find a little disconcerting is the way they state low temperature viscosity. The industry standard is ASTM D445 (82 deg. F; 27 C). Here Mobil states low temperature viscosity at 104 degrees F. At this temperature and 102 centistokes, this oil is too thick for winter time operation in a gas motor...in my opinion:
Mobil 1 5W-40 Truck & SUV:
Viscosity @ 104F = 102cst
Viscosity @ 212F = 14.8cst
Pour point = -45F
Viscosity Index = 151
Flash Point = 226
___________________________________
In my experience Delvac has been used primarily by fleet operators with diesels, although I know Mobil has marketed this oil as gasoline friendly. Diesel motors are usually more tolerant of heavier oils because they're not as tight as gas motors.
Bests,
Dusty
I notice you do not mention the TBN (Total Base Number) in your comparisons. The TBN is the measure of an oil's ability to neutralize the acids that result from combustion. In real-world measurements, Delvac1 maintains its TBN where other oils tend to depleate their TBN.
It is the TBN that allows for extended change intervals. When paying extra for oil, not only do I want better lubrication, I also want to leave it in the crankcase longer. This helps make the extra initial cost of the oil negligible.
You also did not mention the Sulfated ash levels of the different oils either.
BTW: Here is the release notice of this oil
http://www.exxonmobil.com/Corporate/Newsroom/Newsreleases/xom_nr_- 041103_3.asp
My '03 Club Cab is rated the same as yours, 6,010 pounds GVWR. It weighs 4008. That leaves 2002 pounds for load, roughly. I forget what the tow rating is for the moment, but with the 4.7 I believe mine would be higher than the V6 version.
If the Caravan weighs 4500 pounds, it means essentially that it's load-carrying ability is near 1500 pounds.
Best regards,
Dusty
I believe the GC weights in the 4500 lb ballpark. With a GVWR of 6600 lbs, that leaves 2100 lbs for payload.
The 4008 lbs for you CC, is that from the owner's manual or have you had it weighed? According to the manual, my QC weighs 4550 lbs. However, it actually weighs 5010 lbs. Now, I've added a fiberglass cap, bed liner, and nerf bars, which probably add about 250 lbs. The weight of the options and stuff we add to our trucks adds up fast. Even by the book, my QC only has about 1400 lbs for payload. Which isn't much.
I was just suprised to see the GC, which is unibody with a soft suspension, have a higher GVWR that the Dakota, which is a full frame construction. How much of these numbers are marketing vs. engineering?
That number is most likely due more to marketing. DC has been known before to "accidently" fudge the numbers. My sister has a Caravan (not the Grand) and I'm pretty sure her van's #s are nowhere near that... and it doesn't appear to be a whole lot different than the Grand that parks beside me at work every day... other than the bells and whistles, that is.
...however, one might be surprised what a GC can carry, but I'd like to witness it before I believed it.
...by the way, if you were in the truck when you had it weighed, by my calculations that puts you at about 300 lbs, don't it? ;-)
No I haven't had mine weighed. The 4008 pounds was the listed weight on the factory invoice form that is used in New York State for the Certificate of Title filing. It is listed as "shipping weight."
As to your Quad, the difference is 460 pounds from the listed weight to the actual. You said that your cap is fiberglass. In my experience they are fairly heavy. If I had to bet money, I'd guess that cap is 250 lbs. by itself. And if you had a full tank of gas there's another possible 100 lbs.
As to the difference between the mini-van and Dakota, whatever they say the van can carry I know the Dakota will handle that and more with ease.
Bests,
Dusty
The sulphated ash content in percent (ASTM D874) is 1.2 for 0W-30, 5W-30, and 10W-30 full synthetic blends.
I don't have total base numbers for any of the oils on my list. Is that the same as ASTM D287?
Bests,
Dusty
Key thing as dusty mentioned, is the ability to pour at very low temps. To me, this is important as like the Dak, suzuki has camshafts sitting waaaaaaay up in the cylinder head. And like the 4.7, the cams spin in plain bearings in the head (meaning there are no inserts like a crank bearing). Thus, "wiping out" a cam "bearing" (using the term loosely) means also pooching the cylinder head. That means a new head. Read $$$$$.
My logic is I want my oil up there doing its lubricating job as quickly as possible. That is why I use Mobil 1 synthetic, 5w30.
Of course, a quality oil filter is key too but that's another discussion altogether!
Here is a link to the datasheet for DELVAC1 5W40 (AKA "Mobil 1 Truck & SUV" ) You can see that the TBN is "12" . Keep in mind that "raw" TBN does not mean much.... the TBN after running 7,000 miles is more important. This is where this oil really shows its strength.
http://www.mobil.com/USA-English/Lubes/PDS/Pds_Files/glxxe2cvlmom- obildelvac1_5w-40.pdf
I checked with the local auto parts stores and no one has a listing for a '03 Dakota rotor...yet. I checked with my Dodge dealer and they have ONE at $90.00 each. He also said it was the first time he's has an inquiry about the '03 rotors and they haven't worked on any yet.
The parts guy said they'd give me a discount(I suspect 10% since that's what they've done in the past) because I bought the truck there, but I passed on it since I think I'll wait until someone else comes out with one.
For the '02s and down the best price I've seen on the web for Power Slots is $107.00.
I did get to compare a '02 and '03 together. The '03s are heavier and as someone else commented the one I looked at was stamped "Bosch." The '02 was "Made in Canada."
Dusty
I wouldn't be surprised if ATF+3 is going to be phased out.
Dusty
The '03 coating could be zinc or nickel cadmium derivative of some type.
Dusty
I'm not even "close" to starting a project like this but I'm curious.
Have you never driven a normal 4X4 in the snow? With the xfercase locked in 4X4, tight turns are almost impossible because the front differentail (even with open differential) will make one of the wheels slip thus removing all steering ability. Adding a locking front diff makes it worse.
Another real risk is that the front axles or driveshaft can be easilly ripped out the vehicle if there IS traction available.
In other words, the front wheels MUST be free to spin at different speeds in order to steer the vehicle.
Bookitty
A friend at work asked me to help him with a rotor change-out on his 2003 Ford Sport Trac. The original pads were still on it, but the rotors were warped pretty bad. Both the inside and outside rotor surfaces looked clean. Not like mine. So it appeared obvious that rotor surface scuzz was not the problem. This one had either some serious hard spots or were badly warped.
One thing I must say after looking at this Explorer, the factory Dakota pads are probably pretty good quality. This Sport Trac was just about out of pad.
Anyway, it's not just Dakota's.
Best regards,
Dusty