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Dodge Dakota - General Topic
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Of the five fairly recent Dakota buyers (2001-2003) that I know at work, we so far seem to be experience exceptionally few problems. One fellow with a 2001 4x4 has had an issue with popping sounds coming from the front suspension. I think that's it for five of us.
Well, I did have water in my right headlamp assembly. I told the dealer about it and they ordered the part. After it was replaced it looked as if it had been hit by something. A few days later I remembered that a guy in front of me (who hadn't cleared off his car) had a huge piece of ice fly up and it hit the front of my Dakota. I got out and looked, but didn't see any damage at the time. Looks like it put a small crack in the plastic housing, enough to allow moisture into it. I can't blame that on Chrysler.
Regards,
Dusty
There are two torx screws used to make the aiming alignment. With the hood in the open position, bring your face down to the level of the headlamp assembly. Even in good outdoor light these can be hard to see because the most of the hardware is black in color. On my Dakota the screws appear to be finished in a medium green marine coat.
1. Vertical adjustment screw (up & down) - The screw is recessed in the center of the space between the fender and the top of the headlamp, at the approximate center of the headlamp lens.
2. Horizontal adjustment screw (left-to-right) - The screw is visible at the inside edge of the headlamp assemblies (towards the center of the vehicle) recessed slightly behind the plastic lamp housing at a point where the headlamp and parking lamp lens come together.
Hope this helps you.
Regards,
Dusty
31k on my replacement and still having window trim issues. They replaced the exterior window trim and it starts shrinking and pulling away within a few months.
Any ideas?
Thanks,
Robert
Will be looking into it as soon as the weather gets out of the teens here.
Thanks,
Greg
The TB spacer is a waste of $$. The tripple-cats make headers a questionable add-on. An exhaust-system can make it SOUND better.
Although I did install a Borla exhaust (beutiful Stainless-steel that sounds GREAT) , it did not make a big difference in power.
I took a different route with my Dak and replaced the KNOWN weak-links with better components.
My front brake rotors are POWERSLOT with CERAMIC pads... it now stops MUCH better.
I also replaced the whimpy factory shock-absorbers with EDELBROCK IAS... The ride, handling and braking are much improved.
BOTTOM LINE: Most folks have found that the factory has done a decent job of matching the components of the 4.7L engine. There is no 'weak link' that can be replaced that makes a very big difference. There are other parts of the Dak that can be improved.
What say you bpeebles?
The main reason I selected the REDLINE is because their MTL (Manual Tanny Lube) is specifically formulated to improve shifting by controlling the friction characteristics so the synchronizers can better perform their job.
I am sure that Amsoil would protect just as well but there are several things I dislike about their marketing tactics. I also was unable to locate any specific information about their manual tranny products during my extensive research.
What Redline weights and part numbers are you using?
Earl
I remembered reading somewhere about an increase in MPG using Redline in the differential and tranny. I'll give it a shot.
As for the engine, I've been sticking with Castrol Syntec Blend with the K&N Performance Gold oil filter (HP-2004). It's the same combo I used on my '93 Dak V-6 and it has yet to let me down. Only reason I'd switch is if you know of something better in the same price range.
I sent an eMail to REDLINE and reccomendations from "Dave@redlineoil.com" was as follows;
NV3500 5sp manual transmission = Red Line MTL
NV231 Xfer case = Red Line D4ATF
9.25" rear differential with LSD = Red Line75W90
C205F front differential = Red Line 75W90
'01 4.7 SLT CC 4x w/ AWD option. ZERO problems in 25K. Love it!
Most aftermarket bolt-ons tend to move the powerband around. ...less torque (low-end grunt) and more high-rpm power. If you are towing, this is not what you are looking for.
As for your requirement of somthing that "WON'T affect warranty" I do not beleive there is such a thing. (If you are running the wrong spark plugs and the engine has problems... the dealer will tell you it was your non-approved sparkplugs that caused the problem.)
As for PROVEN POWER.... there are several bolt-on supercharger kits. Expect up to 100HP more than stock with a supercharger.
What about throttlebody size? Does anybody make a larger throttlebody for the 4.7? I thought I remembered that was mentioned in this forum somewhere.
Dusty
Here are links to the 2 big boys in throttle-bodies. The "FASTMAN" specializes in modifying YOUR existing TB while "FLOWMETRICS" offers brand-new castings of their own design.
http://www.thefastman.com/
http://www.flometrics.com/TBhomepage.html
As I said above... A larger TB will simply improve HIGH-RPM power. (when the increased airflow is needed.) In fact, a smaller TB is well known to be better for low end grunt (TORQUE) This is because it is easier to control low-speed airflow thru a smaller opening. (than thru a larger opening)
Got to say, a big improvement. I can see further down the road now and it doesnt seem like I outdrive my headlights at a fairly slow speed anymore.
I dont believe they are too high, not shinning in anyones windows, just better visibility.
I know a few others have voiced similiar complaints, wonder if they werent being adjusted correctly for a time from the factory ?
Thanks, Dusty
Greg
He lives in a semi-mountainous area, so it would appear to be an area of the country that would stock that extra.
I purchased my Dakota with Limited Slip off of my dealer's lot in Rochester, NY. At the time I say that he had about 15 out of the roughly 45 Dakota's that had the LSD. We are in snow country around here and that may explain the ratio.
Regards,
Dusty
Knowck on wood, not one problem w/ my truck in 31K miles. GO DAK! Go full time 4WD!
Dusty
Thank you
Here are some related links:
http://www.a1.nl/phomepag/markerink/diffs.htm
http://www.truckworld.com/How-To-Tech/Lockers-Differentials/4x4Lo- - ckers-Diffs.html
http://www.auburngear.com/
http://www.drivetrain.com/
Bill
Joe
Dusty
This truck is now at 7200 miles, going on 7 months old and has been completely flawless.
Dusty
I just had the very best MPG EVER.... over 340 miles on ONE tank of fuel. (low fuel lite did not even come on!)
I attribute this to using synthetic fluids in ALL 4 gearcases and the warmer weather.
2000 QC SLT 2wd 4.7L 5spd man. 3.55LSD tow package
Guess the winter didnt help my front brakes/discs...Guess I'll be monitoring the
group sales for the powerslots, and ceramix pads..Otherwise, truck running fine..
Ger.
I was in Hendersonville,NC last Thursday when this really serious snow storm blew in.Within one hour the snow was 3 to 4 inches. So we decided to head to the motel. We didn't have far to go, We stopped for gas and two subway sandwiches because we knew we were going to be snowed in.We got within one block with a hill to go up and we couldn't make it. I tried 4 times. I felt comfortable with my LSD and 16 inch wheels, but it couldn't make it up the hill. I parked it and we walked up. I was a little disappointed but I still love my truck. I think it may have gone up if I had backed up the hill, but I probably would have put it in a ditch.
In Atlanta
Bookitty
In my younger days, anyone that was not driving would climb in the back and sit over the rear axle to provide tracion up a hill. This was in a Chevy el-camino (half-truck) that sufferd from no weight over the rear wheels just like a 2WD pickup.
Driving: Approximately 85% around town, 55 mph and under. A lot of stop and go. To work distance is 4.8 miles one way.
The winter time mpg dipped down to a low of 12.93 on one tank only, but for the months of December, January, and February the average was 14.41.
From March onward the average has risen correspondingly with the outside temperatures. March, April, May the mpg rose to 16.94.
June and July (to date), the average has risen to 17.6, and that includes a very steady use of the air conditioning.
The total average since new is now 16.46.
Other: The factory Goodyear Wrangler SR/A tires are wearing like iron so far. Brake pads show little appreciable wear, the rotors are smooth and there's no indications of brake chatter. Only repair was warranty replacement of the right side headlamp assembly from a crack. This was not a component quality problem. It was hit by ice from another car. So far this truck is excellent.
Regards,
Dusty
When slowly backing and lightly touching the brakes I get a loud low pitched moan. Sounds like the brake pad causing vibration against the disk. Its a little louder than I've heard on other vehicles.
When driving forward and braking I can hear a high pitched squeel when braking.
Are these normal sounds that will diminish as the truck breaks in a little, or should I consider taking it to the dealer and having them look at it?
Have not experienced any noises when moving forward.
According to the dealership where I bought my 03 Dakota this is a known issue but that there is no solution. For me the noise does not happen all the time, it is totally random, but always in reverse. I have about 350 miles on mine...
After the rotors are seasond approprately, It is common to do some VERY heavy breaking to the point of making the brakes smoke. (This is followed up with about 20 minuits of non-stop driving to allow things to cool evenly.)
This 'letting the smoke out' helps to remove any residual grease/oils from the pads/rotors. You will find that the 'feel' of the brakes will be better after this treatment.
It is important that this is done only AFTER the rotors are seasoned.... lest you may warp a rotor.
If you want REAL value for your tradein... sell it yourself. All of the dealers will tell you that too.
Do not forget to 1st negotiate the best price on your new truck..... THEN negotiate the trade-in value as a sepetate transaction. There should NEVER be any 'coupling' beteween purchase price and trade-in value. If they do not want to do that...WALK AWAY! (You are correct to be wary of dealerships that are INSISTING on a tradein.)
When I purchased my Dak, I offered the salseman a reasonable 4% over dealer cost. (This was on a factory orderd Dakota built to my specifications.)
We just went through a saturation of used Explorers, S10 Blazers, and full size trucks of all makes. This dropped prices way down. My daughter took a real beating on her '98 Explorer when they traded it, and it wasn't just one dealer.
Around here Dakotas just aren't seen on the used car lots in any quantity, especially compared to other makes with perhaps the exception of Tacomas, so prices have been good in the past. But if the used market is as soft as I'm being led to believe it may not be a good time to turn it in to a dealer as a trade.
Good luck,
Dusty
This tells me that Dak owners are satisfied with, and hold on to their trucks. I see this as a POSITIVE thing about Dodge Dakotas.