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Dodge Dakota - General Topic

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Comments

  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    bpeebles,

    Of the five fairly recent Dakota buyers (2001-2003) that I know at work, we so far seem to be experience exceptionally few problems. One fellow with a 2001 4x4 has had an issue with popping sounds coming from the front suspension. I think that's it for five of us.

    Well, I did have water in my right headlamp assembly. I told the dealer about it and they ordered the part. After it was replaced it looked as if it had been hit by something. A few days later I remembered that a guy in front of me (who hadn't cleared off his car) had a huge piece of ice fly up and it hit the front of my Dakota. I got out and looked, but didn't see any damage at the time. Looks like it put a small crack in the plastic housing, enough to allow moisture into it. I can't blame that on Chrysler.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • gregp5gregp5 Member Posts: 51
    Yeah,I'm less than thrilled with the headlights on my 2001 QC. They seem to be bright enough(could be brighter though) but dont seem to project far enough down the road. Was thinking of adjusting the headlights up slightly, but certainly not enough to blind oncomming cars. When I looked at the headlights it seemed it only had one adjusting screw though, so either I'm looking at the wrong thing or the QC has only one adjusting screw.......Anyone know for sure ?
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Greg,

    There are two torx screws used to make the aiming alignment. With the hood in the open position, bring your face down to the level of the headlamp assembly. Even in good outdoor light these can be hard to see because the most of the hardware is black in color. On my Dakota the screws appear to be finished in a medium green marine coat.

    1. Vertical adjustment screw (up & down) - The screw is recessed in the center of the space between the fender and the top of the headlamp, at the approximate center of the headlamp lens.

    2. Horizontal adjustment screw (left-to-right) - The screw is visible at the inside edge of the headlamp assemblies (towards the center of the vehicle) recessed slightly behind the plastic lamp housing at a point where the headlamp and parking lamp lens come together.

    Hope this helps you.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • hennehenne Member Posts: 407
    Well I added airbags to quad this weekend, replacing the Helwig Helper Springs that I have had on my last 2 Quads. I must say, I should have bought bags to begin with.

    31k on my replacement and still having window trim issues. They replaced the exterior window trim and it starts shrinking and pulling away within a few months.

    Any ideas?

    Thanks,

    Robert
  • gregp5gregp5 Member Posts: 51
    Thanks for the detailed info re. the headlights
    Will be looking into it as soon as the weather gets out of the teens here.

    Thanks,
    Greg
  • ready10ready10 Member Posts: 13
    Drive a 2001 SLT CC with 4.7L. Not looking to build a "street racer", just want a little more "OOMPH!" Already added a cold air intake from Airaid, planning to install their throttle body spacer as well. I've been told about headers and exhaust systems. Any suggestions as to make/type??? What about "controller chips" that boost horsepower and torque??
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (ready10) I have been 'researching' performance mods for the 4.7L for several years.

    The TB spacer is a waste of $$. The tripple-cats make headers a questionable add-on. An exhaust-system can make it SOUND better.

    Although I did install a Borla exhaust (beutiful Stainless-steel that sounds GREAT) , it did not make a big difference in power.

    I took a different route with my Dak and replaced the KNOWN weak-links with better components.

    My front brake rotors are POWERSLOT with CERAMIC pads... it now stops MUCH better.

    I also replaced the whimpy factory shock-absorbers with EDELBROCK IAS... The ride, handling and braking are much improved.

    BOTTOM LINE: Most folks have found that the factory has done a decent job of matching the components of the 4.7L engine. There is no 'weak link' that can be replaced that makes a very big difference. There are other parts of the Dak that can be improved.
  • ready10ready10 Member Posts: 13
    Concerning the great Amsoil vs. Redline debate:
    What say you bpeebles?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (ready10) I am running REDLINE in my manual tranny, xfer case, and both axles.

     The main reason I selected the REDLINE is because their MTL (Manual Tanny Lube) is specifically formulated to improve shifting by controlling the friction characteristics so the synchronizers can better perform their job.

    I am sure that Amsoil would protect just as well but there are several things I dislike about their marketing tactics. I also was unable to locate any specific information about their manual tranny products during my extensive research.
  • blakdakblakdak Member Posts: 19
    Bpeebles,

    What Redline weights and part numbers are you using?

    Earl
  • ready10ready10 Member Posts: 13
    Bpeebles, I know what you mean. Their (Amsoil) website did seem a "little" inflammatory.
    I remembered reading somewhere about an increase in MPG using Redline in the differential and tranny. I'll give it a shot.
    As for the engine, I've been sticking with Castrol Syntec Blend with the K&N Performance Gold oil filter (HP-2004). It's the same combo I used on my '93 Dak V-6 and it has yet to let me down. Only reason I'd switch is if you know of something better in the same price range.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (blakdak)

    I sent an eMail to REDLINE and reccomendations from "Dave@redlineoil.com" was as follows;

    NV3500 5sp manual transmission = Red Line MTL
    NV231 Xfer case = Red Line D4ATF
    9.25" rear differential with LSD = Red Line75W90
    C205F front differential = Red Line 75W90
  • ihsalwaysihsalways Member Posts: 16
    Now that it's been out a while, what are the PROVEN, most cost-effective perf. enhancements that WON'T affect warranty for 4.7? Induction? Exhaust? Chip? (Haul 1500# camper in mountains. Does OK, but more always better!)

    '01 4.7 SLT CC 4x w/ AWD option. ZERO problems in 25K. Love it!
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (ihsalways) As it turns out, the 4.7L V8 is a pretty balanced package. There are no known bolt-ons that will make a significant difference.

    Most aftermarket bolt-ons tend to move the powerband around. ...less torque (low-end grunt) and more high-rpm power. If you are towing, this is not what you are looking for.

    As for your requirement of somthing that "WON'T affect warranty" I do not beleive there is such a thing. (If you are running the wrong spark plugs and the engine has problems... the dealer will tell you it was your non-approved sparkplugs that caused the problem.)

    As for PROVEN POWER.... there are several bolt-on supercharger kits. Expect up to 100HP more than stock with a supercharger.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    bpeebles,

    What about throttlebody size? Does anybody make a larger throttlebody for the 4.7? I thought I remembered that was mentioned in this forum somewhere.

    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
     Do not forget that the OEM TB size got bigger from 2000 to 2001. So if you have a 2000, a larger TB 'may' improve things. (Stock is 65mm and optomal is 68mm.... any larger than 68mm gets hard to manage low-speed airflow on the 4.7L V8 without additional engine modifications)

    Here are links to the 2 big boys in throttle-bodies. The "FASTMAN" specializes in modifying YOUR existing TB while "FLOWMETRICS" offers brand-new castings of their own design.

    http://www.thefastman.com/
    http://www.flometrics.com/TBhomepage.html

    As I said above... A larger TB will simply improve HIGH-RPM power. (when the increased airflow is needed.) In fact, a smaller TB is well known to be better for low end grunt (TORQUE) This is because it is easier to control low-speed airflow thru a smaller opening. (than thru a larger opening)
  • gregp5gregp5 Member Posts: 51
    I got the time and a break from the weather to adjust my headlights last week.
    Got to say, a big improvement. I can see further down the road now and it doesnt seem like I outdrive my headlights at a fairly slow speed anymore.
    I dont believe they are too high, not shinning in anyones windows, just better visibility.

    I know a few others have voiced similiar complaints, wonder if they werent being adjusted correctly for a time from the factory ?
    Thanks, Dusty

    Greg
  • usaf52usaf52 Member Posts: 70
    My cousin has been scouring the dealer inventories trying to find a new 2003 Dakota with the limited slip axle and have had no success. It appears that none of the dealers have this extra on trucks in their inventory, and the only choice he has is to order the truck from the factory and have the axle included. Anyone else run into this problem?
    He lives in a semi-mountainous area, so it would appear to be an area of the country that would stock that extra.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    USAF52,

    I purchased my Dakota with Limited Slip off of my dealer's lot in Rochester, NY. At the time I say that he had about 15 out of the roughly 45 Dakota's that had the LSD. We are in snow country around here and that may explain the ratio.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • amend1amend1 Member Posts: 98
    usaf52- I purchased my 2000 QC without limited slip 3 years ago. I bad decision. Since then, I purchased the stock Dodge limited slip unit from Randy's Ring and Pinion and had it installed locally, with all the good fluids, etc. I couldn't be happier. This could be an option for you if your search is fruitless.
  • flyboy01flyboy01 Member Posts: 4
    I have LSDiff + the "NV244HD" Full Time 4WD option on my '01 4.7 SLT ClubCab, and it's great! Not bad mileage (17 on hiway @ 80+ mph), and very seldom have to use "lock up" Hi or Lo 4WD. Just don't understand why, even here out West where it's the perfect setup for slick hills and boat ramps, patchy roads in winter, etc., so few Dak's have it. Just like my former Grand Cherokee QuadraTrack, it's excellent. Great combo w/ my 1800# HD stock payload (which is better than 1/2T "full size" Ram, Chev or Ford :-)

    Knowck on wood, not one problem w/ my truck in 31K miles. GO DAK! Go full time 4WD!
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    I'm now just over 6 months and 6000 miles without a factory defect on my Dakota. Not one assembly flaw or component problem. This is the most defect free vehicle I've owned to date.

    Dusty
  • ja812ja812 Member Posts: 33
    amend1-do you have an internet site for Randys Ring and Pinion?

    Thank you
  • amend1amend1 Member Posts: 98
    Thanks bpeebles! Always the efficient one!
    Bill
  • husker54husker54 Member Posts: 4
    Dustyk, knock on wood or maybe sheetmetal, but I'm with you, not one problem in 1 year, 13,000 miles. So far so good. I love this truck.
  • ja812ja812 Member Posts: 33
    My thanks to you also bpeebles
    Joe
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My bosses' boss just told me tonight that he's had not one problem with his 2002 Dakota Club Cab after 15,000 miles, either. Another fellow that works in my building has a 2001 with almost similar success. He had a loose grill insert. But that's the only problem.

    Dusty
  • deminindeminin Member Posts: 214
    I have a 97 4WD with 60K on it. For the most part its been great. I have had it in for service twice. The first time, at about 10K, the OD lockout quit working. The dealer found a pinched wire in the steering column, and replaced the entire stalk asm. At about 25K, I noticed the oil pressure guage jumping around. It usually held steady at about 40-45 PSI. A trip to the dealer showed the oil pump going bad. They replaced it..thankfully under warranty, and so far, so good. I'm glad the truck had a guage..an idiot lite would have probably fried the engine before it came on. Outside of normal maintainance, installing Autolite Platinum plugs, and Monroe Sensatrak shocks, I have done very little to the truck. I even have fairly good tread left on the tires, but will probably replace them this summer at about 65K.
  • nick69227nick69227 Member Posts: 1
    I was wondering if anybody in the jersey area would like to start a dakota truck club and if so send e-mails and pics of your ride to : rjsmith@aiov.com. And if there is a club already in jersey please send me info on how to join and any other information i need to know. Thanx for everybody's time
  • indychapellindychapell Member Posts: 35
    2000 quad. 4.7,auto,4x4,lsd,3.55 rear,etc.Have had only one problem, fan clutch went bad, dealer fixed immediately. 28000 miles brakes fine, no rattles, and have had a great time using the four wheel drive this winter. We've had about 50" of snow so far, and i'm sure there's more to come.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    My 2003 Dakota Sport Club Cab with the 4.7 and 545RFE has been averaging the mid 14s (with a low of 12.6 on one tank) during the past 8 or 9 weeks with cold weather. The temps began to climb and so did the MPG. With low 40s now the last two tanks have been 17.6 and 17.9, mixed driving.

    This truck is now at 7200 miles, going on 7 months old and has been completely flawless.

    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    You will find as the 4.7L V8 'loosens up', your MPG will continue to improve. My MPG went up contiously for the first 20K miles or so.

    I just had the very best MPG EVER.... over 340 miles on ONE tank of fuel. (low fuel lite did not even come on!)

    I attribute this to using synthetic fluids in ALL 4 gearcases and the warmer weather.
  • ferousferous Member Posts: 226
    Have broken the 500 mile range about a dozen times. The farthest was 532 miles. The overhead computer read 4 miles till empty. I only put 23.1 gallons in it when I filled it up(23.0 MPG). Not one of by best tanks for MPG, but the farthest. My best was 24.6 MPG.
  • ferousferous Member Posts: 226
    Just celebrated the 3rd birthday for my QC. 57,800 miles. The truck has never been back to the dealership. Still has it's orignal tires and brakes. By far it has been the best built car/truck product I have ever owned.

    2000 QC SLT 2wd 4.7L 5spd man. 3.55LSD tow package
  • dodgetrukndodgetrukn Member Posts: 116
    Just turned 30k miles..and now I have the pulsating front end..when on the brakes..
    Guess the winter didnt help my front brakes/discs...Guess I'll be monitoring the
    group sales for the powerslots, and ceramix pads..Otherwise, truck running fine..
    Ger.
  • gjblegjble Member Posts: 23
    Over the years I have read about the exploits of various Dakotas. Here's my story.
         I was in Hendersonville,NC last Thursday when this really serious snow storm blew in.Within one hour the snow was 3 to 4 inches. So we decided to head to the motel. We didn't have far to go, We stopped for gas and two subway sandwiches because we knew we were going to be snowed in.We got within one block with a hill to go up and we couldn't make it. I tried 4 times. I felt comfortable with my LSD and 16 inch wheels, but it couldn't make it up the hill. I parked it and we walked up. I was a little disappointed but I still love my truck. I think it may have gone up if I had backed up the hill, but I probably would have put it in a ditch.

    In Atlanta
  • bookittybookitty Member Posts: 1,303
    Guy, I don't know how much experience you have driving in snowy and icy conditions, but with limited slip differential, it sounds as if you could have conquered this hill. Backing up with rear wheel drive is usually to no advantage, as the weight of the engine would not be over the drive wheels. One way to conquer hills is to hit them while moving along without stopping or slowing your progress. Although I have 4WD, I often try to see how far I can get using 2WD only (I love a challenge) and can usually move right along in 3-5 inches of snow. Sometimes in the southern area, one may encounter snow with a layer of ice beneath, and then it is tough to get any tractive effort. In a pick up truck, a load over the drive axle also helps tractive effort.

    Bookitty
  • gjblegjble Member Posts: 23
    It was a very wet snow with ice,maybe under. My wife said the same thing, that with a better start we might have made it.
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    (gjble) There is no question that your problem was LACK OF WEIGHT over the drive (rear) wheels.

    In my younger days, anyone that was not driving would climb in the back and sit over the rear axle to provide tracion up a hill. This was in a Chevy el-camino (half-truck) that sufferd from no weight over the rear wheels just like a 2WD pickup.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    Vehicle: 2003 Dakota Club Cab Sport Plus, 4.7, 545RFE, 3.55 LSD, 6100 GVW & handling package. Weight - 4008 lbs. Total miles @ 12227.

    Driving: Approximately 85% around town, 55 mph and under. A lot of stop and go. To work distance is 4.8 miles one way.

    The winter time mpg dipped down to a low of 12.93 on one tank only, but for the months of December, January, and February the average was 14.41.

    From March onward the average has risen correspondingly with the outside temperatures. March, April, May the mpg rose to 16.94.

    June and July (to date), the average has risen to 17.6, and that includes a very steady use of the air conditioning.

    The total average since new is now 16.46.

    Other: The factory Goodyear Wrangler SR/A tires are wearing like iron so far. Brake pads show little appreciable wear, the rotors are smooth and there's no indications of brake chatter. Only repair was warranty replacement of the right side headlamp assembly from a crack. This was not a component quality problem. It was hit by ice from another car. So far this truck is excellent.

    Regards,
    Dusty
  • js4esterjs4ester Member Posts: 2
    My Dakota Quad Cab has 4-wheel disk brakes with anti-lock on the rear brakes. Its brand new, I have 250 miles on it.

    When slowly backing and lightly touching the brakes I get a loud low pitched moan. Sounds like the brake pad causing vibration against the disk. Its a little louder than I've heard on other vehicles.
    When driving forward and braking I can hear a high pitched squeel when braking.

    Are these normal sounds that will diminish as the truck breaks in a little, or should I consider taking it to the dealer and having them look at it?
  • lotech1lotech1 Member Posts: 112
    My 03 (Quad with 4 wheel discs/rear antilock) also made the same noise when backing up (low pitched moan). After 500 miles it went away so I figured it was the pads seating on the rotors. Never took it in to the dealer though.

    Have not experienced any noises when moving forward.
  • jboehmjboehm Member Posts: 44
    I was going to post the same thing but decided to wait it out....

    According to the dealership where I bought my 03 Dakota this is a known issue but that there is no solution. For me the noise does not happen all the time, it is totally random, but always in reverse. I have about 350 miles on mine...
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    Have you tried 'letting the smoke out' ?

    After the rotors are seasond approprately, It is common to do some VERY heavy breaking to the point of making the brakes smoke. (This is followed up with about 20 minuits of non-stop driving to allow things to cool evenly.)

    This 'letting the smoke out' helps to remove any residual grease/oils from the pads/rotors. You will find that the 'feel' of the brakes will be better after this treatment.

    It is important that this is done only AFTER the rotors are seasoned.... lest you may warp a rotor.
  • thegsterthegster Member Posts: 6
    I have been shopping for a Dakota and with the (so called) $3K cash back I figured I could finally get my truck. WRONG. The dealers are giving great prices on the trucks, but are absolutely killing me on the trade, 6-7k below the listed average trade in value. One dealer had advertised great prices on the newspaper but on the condition that you MUST trade in a vehicle so I figured something was up. I have researched my car, looked at the price my car is being listed in the papers and have gotten average trade in price from Edmunds, NADA, Black book, and Kelly. Has anyone else experienced this?
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    On my last vehicle purchase, I got $300 for my trade-in. (Yes, that is Three HUNDRED) It was almost worth that much too ;-)

    If you want REAL value for your tradein... sell it yourself. All of the dealers will tell you that too.

    Do not forget to 1st negotiate the best price on your new truck..... THEN negotiate the trade-in value as a sepetate transaction. There should NEVER be any 'coupling' beteween purchase price and trade-in value. If they do not want to do that...WALK AWAY! (You are correct to be wary of dealerships that are INSISTING on a tradein.)

    When I purchased my Dak, I offered the salseman a reasonable 4% over dealer cost. (This was on a factory orderd Dakota built to my specifications.)
  • thegsterthegster Member Posts: 6
    Yeah I realize you will bet more on the street but 6-7 thousand?!! That one dealer absolutely refused to talk about truck price without talking trade in price. I showed him what that vehicle was going for locally from dealers(I wasnt asking what the dealers were but 2k below which I think is fair) they would only kick in $1000 more ($11000) on a car whose average trade in is around 16000 and selling for $18-20 thousand.
  • dustykdustyk Member Posts: 2,926
    .........around here (Western New York State), I'm being told, are absolutely terrible and it seems to be impacting the entire market.

    We just went through a saturation of used Explorers, S10 Blazers, and full size trucks of all makes. This dropped prices way down. My daughter took a real beating on her '98 Explorer when they traded it, and it wasn't just one dealer.

    Around here Dakotas just aren't seen on the used car lots in any quantity, especially compared to other makes with perhaps the exception of Tacomas, so prices have been good in the past. But if the used market is as soft as I'm being led to believe it may not be a good time to turn it in to a dealer as a trade.

    Good luck,
    Dusty
  • bpeeblesbpeebles Member Posts: 4,085
    I noticed this myself when I started shopping for a Dak. back in 1999. I guess it is still true today.

    This tells me that Dak owners are satisfied with, and hold on to their trucks. I see this as a POSITIVE thing about Dodge Dakotas.
This discussion has been closed.