Well, I got my 00 QC back from service today. They tried installing a new ring and pinion set to correct the whine. They wound up taking the new stuff back out, because the rear end specialist said that the new parts would not "set up" any better than the original gears,which convinced him that the problem is in the housing not being cast true. At least they came to this conclusion after the first attempt. So the next step will be to replace the complete rear end, housing and all. I should think that should cure the problem, assuming the new one is made right. I will let you know how it goes. I also was told that these rears are heavy duty, BUT, I don't think that a whine is normal at all. Stnick
I recently experienced an interesting situation with my 01 CC, 4.7, auto. Discovered a small leak near the back of the transmission pan. At first I thought it was the pan seal. Then I traced it to the Line Pressure Sensor. It was leaking through the connector pins. I ordered one through the dealer, but the parts terminal would not release it to the dealer without mechanic's verification in spite of the fact that I was paying for it. I know that it is under warranty but I'm anal!! I have seen to many damaged vehicles emerge from Service Departments. Grease in the interior, scratches on the exterior, and missing or stripped hardware are just some of the common problems. Anyway, I ended up ordering the part online from Koller Dodge in Naperville, Illinois. Installed the sensor four days later and leak is gone. I did purchase a quart of ATF+4 transmission fluid from the local dealer for $8.05 plus tax. Can't wait for fluid change time!!!
Chilton does have a manual covering trucks and vans, 1997-2001, but I don't know if it is model specific. Nichols Publishing (Chilton) offers truck CD's for $19.95. Use a search engine to determine Chilton/Nichols web site and go from there.
The BOB rules! Stayed up til 2:00 a.m. reading it and cannot wait to get home from work to read it some more. ANyone who wants to learn more or work on their own trucks should get a BOB! Long live the BOB!
Finally found my invoice on the cold start fix. They did not list a TSB on there (shame on them) I called down to my dealer and the service manager could not locate a TSB either. My assumption is that Chrysler never assigned it a TSB. My guess that's all. Anyway, is yours any better? Maybe you just have to be a total pain in the [non-permissible content removed] to get some attention from your dealer? I wish I had a better answer for you. Still going strong on mine. I did add a K&N air filter and that has helped out on performance particularly on top end. One note: I do a lot of town driving and after a week to ten days, I get a slight rough idle when warm in gear. Hasn't stalled or anything but feels shaky nonetheless. Cure: Warm up the motor first and thoroughly. THen I find an open stretch of hiway and take it out there and run it hard thru the gears. I do that twice, once each way. It helps to blow some of the excess carbon off the valves and the O2 sensors. And I'm fine for about another two weeks. This is a symptom of lots of town driving. WHen I last drove to Indiana from here (about a 450 mile trip) the further along I drove, the better the truck ran.
Mopar67, I really appreciate your following up on the TSB, or whatever they used to address teh cold start and idle issue. I have had no luck with dealer or DC customer service (800 number). The each want a formal TSB before they do anything. Even with the warnings of loss of HP, I am considering tryign to have my PCM flashed anyway, to just to try and "reset" it. In other words, the idle during cold start and at stoplights is beginning to outweigh a potential small HP loss, but Still thinking about it. btw, my commute is 80% highway 6 days a week with very little in town time and i have the K&N air filter. Thanks again for your help..
Get yourself a flat screwdriver and go around to all the worm drive screw clamps on your intake and make sure they are snug tight. Example, check the flex hose clamps on the intake and where it connects to your airbox. Then check the clamps on the hose from the intake to your throttle body. A loose clamp=too much air= a lean condition that the PCM can't correct for and thus your cold start stumble. Believe it or not, mine were barely tight. Now don't get like King Kong when you tighten the screws lest you force the clamp into the soft rubber and distort the seal. I also wonder if your plugs are gapped properly? There are instances where the factory just puts em in w/o setting the gap. That would surely lead to a rough idle. refresh my memory, how does it run just after you start it and it gets over the stumble issue? BTW kudos to you for using good gas. I still cannot beleive how many people I know here in PA use the cheapest stuff around then complain when their vehicle does not run right. See if BPEEBLES can weigh in on this, he might have a trick that I am missing. I read the BOB already and boy oh boy does it get intense.
Good thoughts, as expected. I will check the hoses and a plug or to to see.. as soon as I can; I always like another reason to pop the hood play with my rig.. An yes, chevron 87 octane from a trusted station... as good as I can manage here... and engine performance after the cold start "rumble" ...... smoooooooth. No problems in acceleration or power, no nocking or hesitation...
I received this e-mail from my post on moparchat, and thought it was an interesting angle to "my" idle concerns:
"I work for a dealership in CA...Idling at 500 rpm is normal after the first 3000 miles..before 3000 miles the 4.7 is designed to idle at 750 rpm. when it hits 3000 rpm the computer sets idle at 500 rpm..(federal emssions standards). There is nothing you can do about the idle, however there is a tsb for a flash (reprogram of PCM) that will help the stalling. You will however still have that rough type idle..any questions you may ask."
ahasher - I believe someone is giving you some erroneous information on idle speed. I have a 2K Dak with the 4.7 and my own experience plus everything I have read indicates that the normal idle speed is 600 rpm unless the A/C compressor is engaged and then it jumps to 700 rpm. I think that there is a decal on the underside of your hood that will specify this.
My 01 QC 4.7L,auto,2wd idles at 600 RPM. Just passed 3000 miles by the way. Also, just had the first oil change done at the dealer on a late Friday afternoon. Flew out of town on business Monday. Anyway, when I had time to really look at the invoice, the mechanic had used 10W-30 oil vs the preferred 5W-30 for 4.7L engines. Is this going to be a problem?
my 2000 4.7 quads idle was 600 when new then dropped to a shakey 500 at just over 3000 without a/c on. i did the idle tsb and its now at 600 and alot better but it has stalled on me twice since then and that tsb was supposed to fix my idle and stalling problems. but they are buying the truck back now so im not concerned anymore. i still havent decided if im gonna get a tacoma double cab or another dakota quad. kinda scared ya know.
ihave a new 2000 dakota with 1100 miles. every time i crank it up when it is cold it sounds like a main knocking not a liffter. once warm it want do it.
Bruce, I am happy that you had a safe trip. I have spent time in Vermont and New Hampshire, and most of the snow is usually gone by the middle of August. Have a great trip.
Okay, this may not be a typical question for this forum but, my 97 Dakota is getting to the point where I need to start thinking about replacing the shocks. Initially I am considering the Edelbrock IAS shocks or Bilsteins. Any other suggestions or comments on these shocks. This is a 2 wheel drive and I drive like a madman. No Gabrials or Monroes for me. Nothing but junk for the last 10 years or so.
Poor guy is still having problems and I recently noticed mine is acting up a little. The BOB sheds no light on this. Dig deep man and shed some light on this please. I feel bad for ahasher and I've tried mightily to help him.
I'll admit I haven't read all the posts so it is possible this has allready been said. One of things I would have checked out is the intake manifold gasket or even the intake manifold as it is composite material.
In the old days an intake manifold gasket leak would cause the idle to increase. When you sprayed some carb cleaner around it the idle would drop. I believe if there is a leak the computer is trying to decrease the idle to "normal" but the leak is causing it to be rough and the, in reality, too low idle is causing the stalling.
The new intake manifold is composite material, it is possible it may be warped or the surfaces not quite right.
I would have the intake and gasket checked. Correct then have the idle speeds set. That might be one solution.
Hell, I got an excellent 68 Barracuda back in 1979 for 100 bucks because AAA motor analysist told the owner the engine needed to be rebuilt. All it needed was an intake manifold gasket.
mopar67.. I had to chuckle on post 571. YES you and others had really tried to give input on my idle concerns, of which i really appreciate the feedback. And bpeebles... welcome back. I am still compiling input before I make a "rash flash" to the PCM. namfflow: the dealer said on visit #2 idle was good in the shop (on the "machine" i assume, in park). Can i check for leaks without having an automotive engineering degree on this engine?
I just got an automatic notification of this recall:
"Recall Alert: DODGE TRUCK DAKOTA, DODGE TRUCK DURANGO Owner Notification Date: 4/9/2001 Number of Units Potentially Affected: 85,400 Component Description: POWER TRAIN TRANSFER CASE (4-WHEEL DRIVE) NHTSA Campaign Number: 01V077000
Description of Recall Campaign: Vehicle Description: Light duty trucks and sport utility vehicles equipped with 4-wheel drive. The electric shift transfer case may not fully engage into gear when the operator moves the transfer case selector switch.
This could cause the transfer case to end up in the neutral position unexpectedly and allow the vehicle to roll away if the parking brake is not applied.
Dealers will reprogram the transfer case control module. Owner notification began April 9, 2001. Owners who take their vehicles to an authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free remedy within a reasonable time should contact DaimlerChrysler at 1-800-843-1403. Also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236)." Hope this is useful.
Yes you can be a technician without taking the home study course!!!
Just get a can of spray carb cleaner and pop the hood on the truck. You might have to take the air filter assembly off to gain access but with the engine running, spray a little carb cleaner around the base of the intake manifold. If you hear the idle drop or if it dies you got yourself a leak.
Some people use wd-40 but that makes too much a mess. Besides with carb cleaner it gets into the manifold and will burn out thru the engine without negative effects.
On starting after extended periods (timing is unimportant, day, night, evening) the engine sounds like a diesel when driving off. This only lasts for half a block or so and then everthing quiets down. I took it back to the dealer and they replaced the fan clutch under warranty. Upon pickup and on first start...same problem. The dealer kept it over night and tried it again in the morning. While the service manager says they hear what I am talking about, they are telling me this is just a Dodge truck thing and it will go away after the fan clutch is on for awhile (true but people actually turn to see what is going down the street making all the noise). Is this common or do I keep working to get it fixed?
I only have 500 miles on my 2001 AC 4.7L and I noticed that my transmission is leaking in the location where the drive shaft connects to the transmission. It is going in for service tomorrow, they said they hadn't had this problem before.
Well, since you asked so nice... I have gone back and re-read all appends by ahasher. Let me see if I have this right
Vehicle; 2000 Dakota with 4.7L V8 Hemi engine
Symptoms; Rough Idle when engine is cold-started. Rough Idle in drive when vehicle not moving. Several trips to dealer have told you that the idle is "within specifications"
My thoughts; This is definitely not "normal" even when accounting for the idle idiosyncrasies that this engine exhibits at times.
The dealer should be "brought to task" on this problem. This is a REAL problem and you have to make it known. (Oftentimes the dealer has to see a "complaint" several times before they acknowledge it as existing. The unfortunate truth is that the dealers hear people complain about all kinds of stuff and the dealers initial response to ALL complaints is to 'blow it off' and see if you come back.)
The dealers have vacuum testers available. (The availability of a knowledgeable technician to read the results may be questionable)
There is a unit that the dealer can attach to your vehicle computer that will "record" all sensor inputs as you drive for several days. This can then be connected to the main computer to assist with problem determination.
The dealer has online connections to a network of technicians. The computer readings can be shared around the globe for problem resolution. (I receive that "Dodge magazine" since I bought my Dakota and it touts this as a "world class" maintenance technique. I would not be afraid to take this magazine into the dealer and POINT OUT the article that describes this system.)
Certainly a vacuum leak should be considered (as others have suggested.) But this is a NEW vehicle and you should not NEED to be troubleshooting it yourself.
From what I can gather, one of the ways Chrysler gets the 4.7 engine to qualify for NLEV standards is to make the poor thing run so lean that any upset of the A/F ratio=poor idle. In all honesty even with 14K on the clock on mine, I would never classify it as a smooth running engine (at least not compared to older v-8 from chrysler et. al.) Case in point, I had the PCM flash done during the winter here in PA. All the while it was cold, the thing lit right up, ran like a champ. Since then (this week to be exact) it has started to warm up a bit (50's 60's) And guess what? I am getting the same stuff as ahasher. Only difference is mine runs ok when warm. According to the BOB, which I finished tonite, there is a the open loop mode which does not get data from the O2 sensor. That blows my theory that the O2 sensor is incorrectly detecting a "rich" condition. The only other thing I can figure is the IAT sensor is sensing a value which tells the PCM the temperature is warmer than it actually is. This would indicate to me that it thinks the PCM should lean out the AF ratio, and I know for sure ANY engine with a too lean mixture will run rough. At least that is my theory which I will advance to my service guy tomorrow. Another fellow told me it could be an intake manifold leak. If so, then wouldn't mine run poorly ALL the time? In ahasher's case, that could be the culprit. I am none to gung ho on plastic intakes on any internal combustion engine. Yeah I know cast iron is heavy but never have I had to replace one on my other older mopars. Weigh in with your opinion. I come here just to see what you have to say and I have learned a lot so far. Well not to much, I had to pay for my BOB!
Two guys I work with have full size rams. They have the 360 courtesy of the Saltillo engine plant and they have 5K and 38K respectively and both engines knock a little when cold. Not too sure which type of oil or filer they use. I had a 75 Cordoba with the 360 and even after a new timing chain, it still knocked a bit when cold. Heck, I drove it to 175K that way and it still ran when I sold it.
Joe, I've got a 2001 Quad 4x2 with the 4.7L engine and I think mine does the same thing as yours -- assuming that your definition of "sounds like diesel" means "sounds like a much louder than normal roar". To me it "sounds like" I am stuck in first gear when I should be in second, but I'm only going 5 - 10mph at the time so that can't be it. If I accelerate slowly, it takes longer before it goes away, but if I put my foot down then it seems to resume "normal volume" much sooner. It only happens about 1 out of 3 mornings. When I got my truck back in October there were other people complaining about the same thing. I think the consensus back then was that it was "normal", so I haven't worried about it too much. Let us know if anybody discovers a "fix".
I assume this is a loud roar sound that occust for the first minute or so of driving. I believe it is the fan clutch on the engine. It is a result of a poor design by Chrysler where it takes a while for the fan to un-stick when first started. The fan should only engage when it gets hot and should freewheel when cold.
Chrysler has written a TSB (I don't have it) which says its a normal noise and "they all do that".
bpeebles,mopar67... your help is thoroughly appreciated, and I believe I am ready to "take the dealer to task" with my problem. While the QC performs beautifully otherwise, great power, smooth acceleration, good mileage for the 4.7, and just the overall "I love this truck" feeling, I would like to see this resolved. Note to mopar67 again (thoughts, bpeebles??); it has averaged in the high 60's and low 70's now and the idle symptoms have diminished noticeably (NOT gone, just less harsh). No other factors have changed. Also I really like the idea of the dealer provided recording unit... I will keep that in mind on my next visit.
At the end of the day, I agree with bpeebles, you should NOT have to play mechanic and diagnose the problem so the dealer can say "they all do that". TIme for you to be a real horses rear end and push until they do something
Ck the service manual, at low temp clutch will be noisy for short time, mine takes about four blocks to quiet down, Chrysler does not make the clutch. KR
I have a 1994 Dakota that is getting a new timing chain. Can someone tell me what marks are used to time, and how to make sure it is in time. It is a 3.9 Liter. It has a . dot & a / hash mark. Are the dots supposed to line up, as a small block Chewy does? Or do the hash marks have something to do with the timing? Any Help, Please Thank You Tim -- Day ton, Ohio
Skylerk, BMWjoe, TKS. Guess I will just have to learn to live with it. Weather is warming up around my parts so maybe it won't be as obvious. Tks for the input.
Tim, If you are referring to the marks on the sprockets they are supposed to be facing each other on centerline with the shafts ie the mark on the cam sprocket should be straight down and the crank sprocket should be straight up. The service manual says to install the chain on the sprockets, position the shafts to align with the sprockets and install the assembly. This is from the 2001 service manual but the info should be valid. Good luck. If I can help further my E mail address is in my profile.
Well I found this TSB refrence. It is for the Grand Cherokee of ocurse, but it has the 4.7.. Am I mistaken, or does this match my symptoms for my 4.7 exactly, and should I use it when I see my dealer service dept next week..
Service Bulletin Number: 1802300 Bulletin Sequence Number: 167 Date of Bulletin: 0012 NHTSA Item Number: SB616726 Make: JEEP Model: GRAND CHEROKEE Year: 2000 Component: ENGINE Summary: SOME VEHICLE ENGINES MAY EXHIBIT PART THROTTLE OR WIDE OPEN THROTTLE SPARK KNOCK; SAG OR HESITATION FOLLOWING A COLD ENGINE START; ROUGH IDLE; IDLE SAG WHEN DECELERATING TO A STOP. *TT
Bill, before you show this to your dealer (unless they have a Jeep franchise), I would see if you can get a text printout that specifically addresses the fix. Otherwise the excuse will be that they cannot access the information. This may be of possible help to the service technician. A printout may be derived from the Internet, or perhaps from a local friendly Jeep dealer who has a copy machine.
Bookitty, as you are known for, you offered a wise suggestion. I will try to obtain hard copy of the TSB even though my dealer does have a Jeep franchise next door. My only other concern is that I'm referring to a JEEP TSB for a DAKOTA problem, even though they share the 4.7.
Oh well.. still love the QC... for example, I washed and waxed it last week.. took it for a drive for a home depot run (must appease the bride and work on the HOUSE once in a while ) and after 13 mos. of driving, I GOT 3 COMPLEMENTS!
This has happened to me about 3 times, now that the weather has warmed up a bit. It usually occurs after the engine has been started in a warm condition. IE: the restart after going to the store. The roar goes away after driving a very short while; by the time I shift into third gear, the sound is gone. Is this normal?
Yes it is. The fan clutch on dakotas w/ v-6 or v-8 is a thermal fan clutch. That is, when it detects (senses) hot air from the radiator, it will expand a bi-metallic spring which allows the silicone fluid to engage the fan. There's your roar. A hot soak(engine off but the heat is still there) means that all the heat generated by the rediator is still there. You start your engine, the fan clutch engages because there is hot air coming off the radiator, more so if you ran your A/C. You drive a bit, the radiator gets cool air over it thereby decreasing the air temp of the air going to the fan clutch. Then the fan clutch dis-engages and the roar goes away. Its when the roar stops totally regardless of hot or cold engine is when I worry. Yes, its a bit loud but simply doing its job. Try turning the radio up and see if that helps.
recently, i noticed an oil leak towards the rear of my v6 engine 5spd , and after researching and asking questions, i determined it was the intake manifold gasket (or belly pan gasket) - the mechanic i took my truck to said it was the same thing, and he replaced both items... (i should say that i didnt tell him what i thought was wrong)....
so, 2 weeks later, im crawl under my truck to check on oil, and i find oil again - this time, it looks like the oil is coming from the rear of the oil pan, and possibly the rear crankshaft seal - im more concerned because it collects at the bottom of the bellhousing and the dust shield...i dont know if its engine oil, clutch oil, or manual transmission oil.... engine and transmission seem to be running ok....
however consider this. how long do you think it would take for the leak to seal up due to thermal expansion? 10 seconds? Five? maybe more? Maybe less? And why is this warm weather related? Why did it not happen during the cold weather? Wouldn't the leak be larger in cold weather due to thermal contraction? I'm out of ideas but I don't care anymore. That is what the warranty is for and on April 18, Preston dodge gets to put their knowledge and training to the test.
My '00 4.7L (5sp) (13,000 miles) has developed an annoying habit of cutting-out when I push the clutch in for four seconds or more as I'm coasting up to a stop sign or a turn, etc and applying slight braking. The tach needle will bounce around a bit after pushung in the clutch then settles right down to zero as the engine stops. Scared the crap out of me when I was in mid-turn with oncoming traffic and no power steering because the engine died. In fact if the engine isn't turning, you have "no" steering at all. Maybe I just have weak arms but an accident could result either way. Kind of just started as the weather warmed up here in south central PA.
I guess I need to see the dealer and get the "EMF pulse" to erase all of those learned bad habits.
A strange problem... I have a new 2001 Quad Cab with less than 500 miles on it. 8 cylinder with handling package and large 16' tires Just recently I have noticed a vibration in the gas pedal only on medium to hard accelerations. I stopped by the dealer and had the shop foreman take it for a ride. He said something about a "transmission drone" vibration which is supposed to be normal? I am not quite sure to believe him. What do you think, problem or not?
Comments
atokaD
Bookitty
Long live the BOB!
One note: I do a lot of town driving and after a week to ten days, I get a slight rough idle when warm in gear. Hasn't stalled or anything but feels shaky nonetheless. Cure: Warm up the motor first and thoroughly. THen I find an open stretch of hiway and take it out there and run it hard thru the gears. I do that twice, once each way. It helps to blow some of the excess carbon off the valves and the O2 sensors. And I'm fine for about another two weeks. This is a symptom of lots of town driving. WHen I last drove to Indiana from here (about a 450 mile trip) the further along I drove, the better the truck ran.
Bill
I also wonder if your plugs are gapped properly? There are instances where the factory just puts em in w/o setting the gap. That would surely lead to a rough idle. refresh my memory, how does it run just after you start it and it gets over the stumble issue?
BTW kudos to you for using good gas. I still cannot beleive how many people I know here in PA use the cheapest stuff around then complain when their vehicle does not run right.
See if BPEEBLES can weigh in on this, he might have a trick that I am missing. I read the BOB already and boy oh boy does it get intense.
"I work for a dealership in CA...Idling at 500 rpm is normal after the first 3000
miles..before 3000 miles the 4.7 is designed to idle at 750 rpm. when it hits
3000 rpm the computer sets idle at 500 rpm..(federal emssions standards). There
is nothing you can do about the idle, however there is a tsb for a flash
(reprogram of PCM) that will help the stalling. You will however still have that
rough type idle..any questions you may ask."
comments?
Ron35
robert
After 3weeks of 90-degrees... This shoveling snow and cold is hard to deal with... Perhaps its the jetlag...
I am allready scheduled to go back to Singapore in 2weeks.
Bookitty
In the old days an intake manifold gasket leak would cause the idle to increase. When you sprayed some carb cleaner around it the idle would drop. I believe if there is a leak the computer is trying to decrease the idle to "normal" but the leak is causing it to be rough and the, in reality, too low idle is causing the stalling.
The new intake manifold is composite material, it is possible it may be warped or the surfaces not quite right.
I would have the intake and gasket checked. Correct then have the idle speeds set. That might be one solution.
Hell, I got an excellent 68 Barracuda back in 1979 for 100 bucks because AAA motor analysist told the owner the engine needed to be rebuilt. All it needed was an intake manifold gasket.
namfflow: the dealer said on visit #2 idle was good in the shop (on the "machine" i assume, in park). Can i check for leaks without having an automotive engineering degree on this engine?
As always.. THANKS!
"Recall Alert: DODGE TRUCK DAKOTA, DODGE TRUCK DURANGO
Owner Notification Date: 4/9/2001
Number of Units Potentially Affected: 85,400
Component Description: POWER TRAIN TRANSFER CASE (4-WHEEL DRIVE)
NHTSA Campaign Number: 01V077000
Description of Recall Campaign:
Vehicle Description: Light duty trucks and sport utility vehicles equipped
with 4-wheel drive. The electric shift transfer case may not fully engage into
gear when the operator moves the transfer case selector switch.
This could cause the transfer case to end up in the neutral position
unexpectedly and allow the vehicle to roll away if the parking brake is not
applied.
Dealers will reprogram the transfer case control module.
Owner notification began April 9, 2001. Owners who take their vehicles to an
authorized dealer on an agreed upon service date and do not receive the free
remedy within a reasonable time should contact DaimlerChrysler at
1-800-843-1403. Also contact the National Highway Traffic Safety
Administration's Auto Safety Hotline at 1-888-DASH-2-DOT (1-888-327-4236)."
Hope this is useful.
Just get a can of spray carb cleaner and pop the hood on the truck. You might have to take the air filter assembly off to gain access but with the engine running, spray a little carb cleaner around the base of the intake manifold. If you hear the idle drop or if it dies you got yourself a leak.
Some people use wd-40 but that makes too much a mess. Besides with carb cleaner it gets into the manifold and will burn out thru the engine without negative effects.
Is this common or do I keep working to get it fixed?
Vehicle;
2000 Dakota with 4.7L V8 Hemi engine
Symptoms;
Rough Idle when engine is cold-started.
Rough Idle in drive when vehicle not moving.
Several trips to dealer have told you that the idle is "within specifications"
My thoughts;
This is definitely not "normal" even when accounting for the idle idiosyncrasies that this engine exhibits at times.
The dealer should be "brought to task" on this problem. This is a REAL problem and you have to make it known. (Oftentimes the dealer has to see a "complaint" several times before they acknowledge it as existing. The unfortunate truth is that the dealers hear people complain about all kinds of stuff and the dealers initial response to ALL complaints is to 'blow it off' and see if you come back.)
The dealers have vacuum testers available. (The availability of a knowledgeable technician to read the results may be questionable)
There is a unit that the dealer can attach to your vehicle computer that will "record" all sensor inputs as you drive for several days. This can then be connected to the main computer to assist with problem determination.
The dealer has online connections to a network of technicians. The computer readings can be shared around the globe for problem resolution. (I receive that "Dodge magazine" since I bought my Dakota and it touts this as a "world class" maintenance technique. I would not be afraid to take this magazine into the dealer and POINT OUT the article that describes this system.)
Certainly a vacuum leak should be considered (as others have suggested.) But this is a NEW vehicle and you should not NEED to be troubleshooting it yourself.
Try another dealer!
Good luck!!
Case in point, I had the PCM flash done during the winter here in PA. All the while it was cold, the thing lit right up, ran like a champ. Since then (this week to be exact) it has started to warm up a bit (50's 60's) And guess what? I am getting the same stuff as ahasher. Only difference is mine runs ok when warm. According to the BOB, which I finished tonite, there is a the open loop mode which does not get data from the O2 sensor. That blows my theory that the O2 sensor is incorrectly detecting a "rich" condition. The only other thing I can figure is the IAT sensor is sensing a value which tells the PCM the temperature is warmer than it actually is. This would indicate to me that it thinks the PCM should lean out the AF ratio, and I know for sure ANY engine with a too lean mixture will run rough. At least that is my theory which I will advance to my service guy tomorrow.
Another fellow told me it could be an intake manifold leak. If so, then wouldn't mine run poorly ALL the time? In ahasher's case, that could be the culprit. I am none to gung ho on plastic intakes on any internal combustion engine. Yeah I know cast iron is heavy but never have I had to replace one on my other older mopars.
Weigh in with your opinion. I come here just to see what you have to say and I have learned a lot so far.
Well not to much, I had to pay for my BOB!
I had a 75 Cordoba with the 360 and even after a new timing chain, it still knocked a bit when cold. Heck, I drove it to 175K that way and it still ran when I sold it.
Chrysler has written a TSB (I don't have it) which says its a normal noise and "they all do that".
Drive Safe,
Joe
Again, thanks for your help.
Bill
TIme for you to be a real horses rear end and push until they do something
Can someone tell me what marks are used to time, and how to make sure it is in time.
It is a 3.9 Liter.
It has a . dot & a / hash mark.
Are the dots supposed to line up, as a small block Chewy does?
Or do the hash marks have something to do with the timing?
Any Help, Please
Thank You
Tim -- Day ton, Ohio
dick
Service Bulletin Number: 1802300
Bulletin Sequence Number: 167
Date of Bulletin: 0012
NHTSA Item Number: SB616726
Make: JEEP
Model: GRAND CHEROKEE
Year: 2000
Component: ENGINE
Summary: SOME VEHICLE ENGINES MAY EXHIBIT PART THROTTLE OR WIDE OPEN THROTTLE SPARK KNOCK; SAG OR HESITATION FOLLOWING A COLD ENGINE START; ROUGH IDLE; IDLE SAG WHEN DECELERATING TO A STOP. *TT
Bookitty
Oh well.. still love the QC... for example, I washed and waxed it last week.. took it for a drive for a home depot run (must appease the bride and work on the HOUSE once in a while ) and after 13 mos. of driving, I GOT 3 COMPLEMENTS!
:-)
Is this normal?
Its when the roar stops totally regardless of hot or cold engine is when I worry.
Yes, its a bit loud but simply doing its job. Try turning the radio up and see if that helps.
Drive Safe,
Joe
Bob
so, 2 weeks later, im crawl under my truck to check on oil, and i find oil again - this time, it looks like the oil is coming from the rear of the oil pan, and possibly the rear crankshaft seal - im more concerned because it collects at the bottom of the bellhousing and the dust shield...i dont know if its engine oil, clutch oil, or manual transmission oil.... engine and transmission seem to be running ok....
has anybody had this happen to them?
"Another fellow told me it could be an intake manifold leak. If so, then wouldn't mine run poorly ALL the time?"
The answer is that a leaky seal may actually "seal up" after warming up due to thermal expansion.
I'm out of ideas but I don't care anymore. That is what the warranty is for and on April 18, Preston dodge gets to put their knowledge and training to the test.
Stay tuned.
I guess I need to see the dealer and get the "EMF pulse" to erase all of those learned bad habits.