Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

myersed

I had the replacent Oil cap/baffle installed. I also had rear seat tethers installed, since I recently became a grandpa. All work was done under warranty. I personally ordered the parts first and scheduled the appointment after the parts arrived. For those not wanting to hassle with the warranty program I believe the cost is about $7.00 (cap) and $2-3 for baffle

I was "in and out" of the shop within 25 minutes. (I pulled out the rear seats before I took it in which saved them an additional 35-40 minutes)

By the way, I was surprised at the amount of room in the back of the Quad, with the rear seats out. At least a 25% gain in storage space. It only took 20 minutes to get the seats out (2 nuts & 2 bolts per seat) so, I will not hesitate to remove them when rear cab space is needed. I will admit that the rear end noise level is excessively loud with the seats removed. Of coarse, if it is full of stuff it won't be noticeable.

Thanks again (bpeebles & others) for communicating the replacement Cap/baffle almost 6 months ago. I delayed changing it because it did not look too bad during my first 15,000 miles. However, when I changed the oil in December (17K), the foam was much more than I wanted to see and the original "o-ringed cap" was so tight, I needed a pair of large pliers to remove it!

ahasher

Well I checked and now i too have the famous yellow gunk in my oil filler tube. Now 2 questions... 1. I have a 2000 SLT 4.7 auto with the wind shroud to the left (passenger side) of the radiator. How do I see if I have the "new" cap and filler vs. the old style? I thought the wind shroud was part of the fix. Apparently not. Question 2. How can i safely clean the tube without getting that gunk into the engine? wiping it out helped, but still some remained in the lower tube. Thanks

Bill

nthdgreee

How do you re-enable the auto door locks at 15 MPH

I was able to get them disabled pretty easily but have not been able to get them to start working again, at least with the instructions in my 2001 owners manual. I can't help but think that the manual is giving us the wrong procedure. Anybody out there know how to get it done?
Thanks

rotondim

The TB for the oil fill tube consists of 2 parts, the oil fill cap and the baffle. You can determine if the new cap/baffle is installed by removing the oil fill cap. The old cap is about 1 inch deep. The new cap is probably at least 2 inches deep and is solid like.' What I mean is that the 2 inch depth takes up 2 inches of volume/area into the fill tube. The baffle sits within the tube below the cap and directs the hot vapor back down into the engine. This helps to prevent the condensation. I hope this helps but must admit my description leaves a little to be desired.

marntzen

I found I had no heat coming out to the floor, so sent it to the dealer they said they drilled a hole in the duct and was fixed. I still don't think it is any good. any body else notice this? ma

lmeyer1

Let us know how it goes.

victx

You've got to be kidding. Either a bad joke or a TERRIBLE dealer.

carls5

Well the rainy, wet season has hit Calif. and I now have the phantom door lock problem that others have talked about in the past. My door locks click and groan, go up and down, lock and unlock, etc. I know that over the past nine months other have complained about this problem but I can not recall what the fix was other than I think someone mentioned moisture problems. I have an appointment tomorrow with Dodge service to look into the problem but I will appreciate it if anyone has any words of wisdom before tomorrow that I could share with my service re. All in all the QC has performed exceedingly well. Nine months with almost 12K miles and this is the second time I have had to visit the service kept. The first time was for the recall on the tranny stick.
Thanks
Carl

bmwjoe

I have a 1998 Club Cab. The heat is only so-so. Part of the problem is it takes a while for the 5.2l lump to warm up. The other problem is the heater makes a lot of noise, but does not blow much air. Anybody else have this problem?

Marntzen, what year/model/engine is your truck?

Drive Safe,

Joe

wetwillie

I've a 99 club and appreciate the design of the heat dispersion in every mode - especially the floor mode. This is the only vehicle I've owned that hasn't given me 'hot foot' in the floor only mode. I hear ya as far as not feeling the blower output in the floor mode - I dont feel it directly say, with my hand for instance, but it definitely fills the foot wells with heat. I have a 5.2L V-8 as well, and it does take a long time to soak, but I have a block heater and use that when it's cold and that helps alot. In fact, I find the floor only mode the most comfortable of all the modes, probably because it's so well diffused.

steve234

My work truck is a 00cc w/3.9. Since the engine is based on the 5.2, it shares many characteristics. It is also real slow to warm up. My 4.7 takes half as long to get warm.

carls5

Re my post 408 the Dodge technical worked with the Dodge Star Center, which I guess is the premier trouble shooters, and between them they traced the problem back to a timer module failure. The part is on order and should be in next week. Will keep y'all advise if this corrects the problem. In the mean time I'll put up with the nervous door locks and make sure I always take my keys out of the ignition just to make sure the gremlins don't decide to lock the doors while my keys are in the ignition.
Carl

zonk

I have a '01 QC, Sport+, 4.7L auto, 4x2, T&H pkg, 3.55, no ABS. Sometimes I notice a pull to the left when I brake, doesn't do it all the time. I have also a very, very few times heard a "squeak" noise when I brake, also seems like from the left side of truck. Never get these two happening at the same time. Anything to worry about?
I am also not real happy with mpg in town - between 13-14. This seems to be on the low side from what I have been reading. Anything I can do to improve it (I am not a lead foot)?

scottieeck

I know I'm going to sound like a total moron, but is there any way of finding out replacement part numbers or their equivalent without going to Pep Boys and trying to find the part # you need in the books chained to the aisle,(or trusting the kid behind the parts desk)? I assumed the BOB would have all that stuff in it (FOR 100 BUCKS IT SHOULD!), but I was wrong again. Thanks!
Scottie

96g11

I hope someone with a bob can respond. I am too cheap to buy one, sorry. I recently installed a Bulldog Security remote starter system on my 2000 Quad 4.7l auto. I found a glitch when wiring. It seems that the key-switch has a switch or sensor that sends a signal to the transmission when the key is turned on. If the engine is running and the key is not switched on, the trans makes a click/or buzz sound (probably some srevo or something). My question is does the key-switch wiring show this? What is the purpose for the signal to the trans? I was able to wire in a fix and energize the signal to the trans with the bulldog system so that it works fine, I just wanted further info on the system. Thank you to anyone who responds, 96g11.

bpeebles

The BOB does NOT have any P/Ns for FRUs in it. It does have the P/Ns for the special tools needed to perform specific tasks.

All of the FRU P/Ns are maintained by another orginization within the Corp that deals with the
issues of tracking MILLIONS of spare parts for over 10 model years of vehicles. I beleive the FRUs are maintained in a computer database that is constantly updated as required. Any printed book would become obsolete overnight if an updated PN becomes available. (The oil-fill cap for the 4.7L V8 hemi has been redesigned TWICE thus far with 'A', 'B' and 'C' suffixes.)

pseaman1

I recently took my '97 Dakota in for a front end alignment and was told that I needed upper & lower ball joints, idler arm, and inner tie rod. The guy told me that he has seen quite a few Dodge products (Dakota & Durango) with this problem. With only 55,000 miles, I thought a $750 front end re haul was too much too soon. I wonder if this is a common problem like he said or maybe he is trying to gouge me.

bmwjoe

What model Dakota is this? 2WD or 4WD?

Drive Safe,

Joe

fat_fenders

Just as a point of reference on the worn out ball joints...

I had a '94 4X4 Explorer that needed new front universals and had a bad ball joint at 60K miles. While in there, I replaced all ball joints. Not sure if this is representative of a typical Ford or not but the fact they needed to be replaced might indicate this being more normal maintenance than poor quality. IMHO, this problem is a direct result of being unable to grease these points (sealed bearings).

I now have a 2K1 4X4 Quad so we'll see how that holds up. So far, I love this truck!

fat_fenders

pseaman1

My Dakota is a 4x4 model. I just thought since we use ours as a "grocery better" and never use it for all its worth (off road or towing), that we could go trouble free for a little longer. Other wise, this has been a good truck, except for my battery which just cooped out.

scottieeck

thanks Bruce. I just figured that periodically replaced parts (oil filter, light bulbs, air filter & such) would be in there. oh well. please refer to the moron sentence in my last post. Drive safe! Scottie

ole3

While changing my plugs out for Bosch 4417s, I noticed a pretty fair amount of "oily"
condensation on the front passenger side of my fuel rail (only on the fuel rail) . . .

Anybody else seen this ? Comments ? Questions ?

Thank You

Ole
'01 Dakota Quad Cab 4x4, 5speed, 3.55 LSD
Gibson Cat Back, Snug Top XtraVision, BedRug

bikenut

My truck shipped 1/23, and barring a problem should arrive in a week or so. I read somewhere to instruct the dealer NOT to wash the vehicle, as the paint is soft. As my truck was just built on 1/23, and it is cold in RI, I will instruct the dealer not to wash it. My question is: How can I wash it? Soft sponge and dishsoap? I've never had a truck that I cared about the appearance, so I'll appreciate advise on how to wash, and a wax that won't take too long to apply on a 30 degree day. I use a polymer spray on my bike that works well, but might be prohibitively expensive on a truck. Thanks again to all on this forum. I've learned a lot in the 2+ months I've been reading this. BTW, TIME mags Online rag ON listed Edmunds as "Digital favorite" for car info/ shopping.

traumagas

Hello all,
I hate one thing on my Quad cab! Its changing the oil. Mine has Skid plates and the moron that designed the plate did not have a clue!! Or am I a moron . The plug fires the oil on to the plate and not thou the hole. Now I could see this was going to be problem from the first oil change. any other people having this problem?
Here are some ideas for a fix
1 Dont change the oil
2 take plate off (4 bolts)
3 take the plate off a mount a diverter of
some sort on it so oil hits it and then
thou hole
4 find a marine application plug adapter
that turns the direction of floe 90 degrees

traumagas

please tell me more about your Gibson Cat back
I want to get a cat back of some sort Borla, flowmaster, Gibson. I am looking for one to follow the same path as stock not out the side in front of the back tires. Any info you could share would be greatly appreciated
TraumaGas@aol.com

ohc_baby

A popular modification on the DML was the addition of a simple valve that's threaded into the oil pan with tubing that you can run through the hole or elsewhere. Pull the tubing out and into the funnel, turn the valve, and just wait a little longer. The good thing is that you can do this with the oil hot - taking less time to drain. The mfgr's website is www.fumotovalve.com.

bmwjoe

I would have the dealer wash the truck. They are trained not to damage new paint. Wash the truck with car soap. It is very mild. I would hold off on was for 2-3 months until the paint cures.

Drive Safe,

Joe

carls5

This is an update to my posts # 408 & 412 about my door locks going crazy. On Jan 22 my local dealer installed the timer parts that Dodge Star Center told them was the problem. This fix lasted for 2 days and then the door locks started going crazy again. Took the QC in today and in conversation with the Star Center they found out that a TSB will be released on 1/31 which address this problem. My local dealer got an advanced copy and ordered the parts specified. FYI the TSB # is 0804100. I hope that this fixes the problem
Carl

bpeebles

Here is one of many URLs I saved about Dakota Exhausts.

bpeebles

Here is a URL that is sure to brighten your day if you know ANYTHING about auto parts. They offer everything from the ole' standby "Muffler bearings" to hard to find left-handed wrench to tighten the "Nut behind the wheel". All at reasonable prices.

http://www.kalecoauto.com/

ghostwriter336

I purchased a 2000 Dakota CC 3.9V6 4X4 in July and since then it has been back to the dealer 4 times because everytime the truck is exposed to water be it a car wash or rain the floor of the vehicle floods. I thought it was coming thru the doors, but now I'm not sure. The dealer has replaced weather stripping, moisture barriers, re-sealed just about everything on both doors, body, and the cowl. Its still coming in somewhere. They checked the HVAC unit and said the seals were good. The metal floor has puddles and the padding under the carpet is always soaked (you could ring it out). The surface of the carpet only gets damp occasionally. I had an alarm installed in the truck and the installers discovered a very wet interior when they pulled up the carpet. The carpet in the back is dry and so is the grey barrier that goes up along the fire wall. Daimeler- Chrysler is getting a final repair letter and I'm going to procede with the lemon law. Just wondering if anyone else had any problems. The space between the top two weather strips on both door frames is always wet after exposure to water and the main strip that goes around the entire opening always has an outline of water on it. Is this normal on the Dakota? I've never expierenced this on any other vehicle's weather stripping that I have owned. The service from the dealer has sucked. I think the truck needs to go to a body shop (they have their own) and they won't send it. 2 calls to Chrysler hasn't helped either. I just get "We have certain procedures we have to follow..." Sorry but I need to vent. Anyone else have experience with the lemon law and do you think I have a case? Thanks in advance and sorry for the long post.
PS don't go to Oasis Dodge in Old Bridge NJ

bobs5

Sorry to hear about the water leak problems.

Oasis Dodge is the dealer which I bought my truck from.

So far, my experience with their service department has been OK.

Currently there is a part on order to fix the driver's side rear window.

Leaks can be difficult to track down.

I think you have given them ample opportunities to fix this leak.

Maybe try another dealer?

Here is a link for lemon law in NJ.

http://www.state.nj.us/lps/ca/ocp/lembroc.pdf

tuvtest

Kale Co. It's like finding the Ark of the Covenant. All those supplies I've looked high and low for, all in one place. I'm doing all my shopping there from now on.

bookitty

Bruce, with all of the worthy products that Kale Company carries, I was disappointed that I cannot get those difficult to obtain "spark plugs and ignition points" for diesel powered engines. I did
however find some of the tools that my uncles sent me after. Unfortunately, it is a bit late. The turn signal blinker lubricant really works well. Do you think that it would work as well on the four way flashers. I don't want to risk voiding the warranty (on the lubricant). You made my day, thank you.

Bookitty

tuvtest

I belive it will work on the 4 way flashers, but of course you need to use twice as much.

bookitty

Harold, bless you for possessing such a logical mind.

Bookitty

ole3

I got the "standard" side exit cat back (in stainless)

As many other people have written, it mounts up just like the
factory original exhaust !
(only problem is removing the stock exhaust . . . it took me
about three hours to "tear" the stock muffler off of the pipe
between the Cat and the muffler)
The Gibson part slid right into place with the stock hangers.

Love the sound, feel, etc . . . no noticable gas mileage change . . .
"butt dyno" likes it . . . getting Quick-D Intake Setup This Week . . .

Also added Bosch +4 4417s, "noticable" improvement . . .

slickwilliedj

your paint is baked and cured at the factory.by not washing your truck frequently you can actually do more damage by allowing things such as: sap,birddroppings.fall out. dirt.,tar etc to seat and bake into your finish. i would have dealer wash adn prep your truck as normal and you should wash your truck 1once a week maybe between use a quick detailer mist. i would wax in about 3 mos use regular wax with carnuba.

rfroache

slickwilliedj - I've not heard of this product, is it non wax and used to give the paint a quick shine? Got any brand names???

zonk

Every so often when braking, I get a high pitched squeak. Sounds like it's on the right side; very intermittent. Should I be concerned? I have a 01 QC, 4.7L, 2wd, auto, no ABS.

traumagas

Thanks for the web site fumotovalve.com I ordered the part with the adapter and nipple. This should work on keepin me and the floor of my shop clean from the hot oil spills that come from changin the oil on my 4.7 4x4 with skid pack. This next change I plan to take the Plate off for the last change and installment of this valve. And hopefully my last B----fest on this supject
Traumagas@aol.com

rfroache

I was also checking out fumotovalve.com, but got alittle confused with the nipple/adapter. Traumagas it sounds like we have the same truck - 2001 4.7L 4x4 with skid plate. Did you research the exact parts you'll need. I have to admit that I only have 500 miles on the truck and have been too darn lazy to slide under the truck for a look, but I can't believe that oil changes are this much of a PIA with the skid plate. I assume there is a door flap to get to the filter? I'm thinking about getting the valve myself, but I can imagine that the oil takes a l-o-n-g time to drain if it's got to move through a nipple valve. Could you explain to me how this thing actually works, do you attach a hose to the nipple and send the hose out the skid plate hole? And if so, how do they do it at the shop??? Anyone know???
Thanks! Bob - owner of "Big Lucy"

slickwilliedj

quick detailer is made by maguires, or other brands are avail mothers makes one also,,,,its a product designed to be misted over the body of the truck to remove daily dirt and to restore the just waxed shine. think of it like a cleaner/protectant for those not so clean moments that don't total require a complete wash.

ahasher

I know i saw a URL for TSB's once here but cant find it now. IF anyone has it please post it again. But my problem is still present, the dealer says 'DUH" (2 visits for this problem). I have metioned it here before but i am getting concerened now. 2000 QC 4.7 auto. Engine stutters durign a cold start (almost stalls before it finds a smooth idle) , engine rough idle after a stop from highway speed and NOW in town stops. HELP!! It now has started to do it more often, and almost stalled last night at a stop sign. Smooth acceleration and power, and the problem is only obvious at idle. I tried 89 octane, and the idle probles is less. 87 and it is almost embarrasing. ANY input in my options is greatly appreciated.
Bill

bmwjoe

Sounds like a bad Idle Air Control (IAC) valve. Take it out and clean it.

leigh38

I to have had water problems with my 2000 QC.
First of all every time it would rain my stereo
system would make loud crackling sounds even
with the vehicle turned off. Then I noticed the
passengers side carpet was wet.I thought maybe that might have something to do with the radio.
The dealer sent it to the body shop. They said it
was coming in thru the doors. They put in some type of water shields and replaced the carpet. They had my truck for a week. That leak seems to be gone. However When I got the truck back the stereo sounded terrible. Apparently they
put the shield behind the speakers. So I went back the dealer and they modified that problem.
Shortly after that the amplifier died. They replaced
it. Now Yesterday the stereo started making noises
again after a hard rain. Now they say the amplifier has water on it. They are now in the process of dissmantleing my dash to find the leak.
The only other problem is the gas mileage. Never have gotten better than 10mpg.I only have 3000 miles on it. I hope it improves. Any how good luck
with your water problems

Leigh

traumagas

First believe it, I called the dealer to ask if I was just a moron and he told me no that they hate to see a qc pull up for oil change if it has skid plates. First of all the plug is at a 45 degree angle faceing the rear and a square 5.5 x5.5 hole centered under it with 2.75 inches of the hole toward the front. now you have 6 qt of hot oil to drop thru a 2.75 inch window. That just doesn't work. When plug is removed
hot oil fires out missing the hole for at least the first 3 qts. Now for the next part of this nightmare, the skid plate is a hard plastic corrogated part so the oil goes in pockets that you can hardly get to to clean it up. I quess that why Dodge choose 13mm as the wrench size.
The oil filter is a chip shot as long as you have long sleeves and med build. you stick arm up thru access losen filter, take 2 liter plastic coke
bottle cut the end out,(POP BOTTLE FOR THE YANKS) with cap in place stick bottle over filter and grasp and turn filter and take off allowing oil and filter to go in bottle
You shouldnt spill a drop on this part.
The part on fumotovalve.com Shows picture, total cost 35.00 the 4.7 requires adapter part included with price. The time to drop hot oil thru this will be much shorter then the time it will take to clean all the oil you spill on you your truck and shop floor doing it the other way.
Email me after your experience tell me your thoughts.
TraumaGas@aol.com

ahasher

bmwjoe - i appreciate the suggestion, but this shadetree mechanic has a question about this new engine. I would like to check the valve myself before I go to a dealer for another blank stare about this problem, but on this engine i am not sure where it is. Can you (or anyone) tell me where this particular valve is on the 4.7? Thanks again..
Bill

rfroache

Yup! I was afraid of that! Thanks alot for the info it was a big help. Now for one last question before I order... This valve has a nipple on it I believe, do you connect something like 1/4 or 3/8 inch tubing to the sucker or is the valve (I'm doubting) larger than that? Or can you get away without putting tubing on your nipple?

henne

there is a new tab out for the 4.7 idle, I have a similar rob and I am taking mine in soon for the tab and a few other things like a 4th rebuild on my whine honey. the idle tab came out in January.

good luck.

Robert