Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

bsparx

Thanks for the recommendation. They're on San Pablo Ave., right? That's a lot closer than Dublin...

Ben

stnick

Bsparx, Just read your milage report and note that you have one of the few full time 4x4's that we have seen here on the forum. Also couple that to your 3.92 axle and your milage now, anyway is probably not that out of line. My 00 quad 4.7 auto part time 4x4 3.55 lsd, has been running consistanly between 13.5 to 17.5 all around. Have seen 19.5 on straight hwy trip. Also some of the other posters, bpeebles, bookitty , steve234, have all felt that this 4.7 takes a really long time to settle in, 10 to 12k some say. Now that its cold here, I'm holding around 13.5 to 16 on trips to work etc. Thats only 1.5 to 2 mpg lower overall than my 95 Ranger 4x4 did with a 4.0L 6. I am hoping for some improvement as time and miles go by, and warmer weather.. Stnick.

bpeebles

BOB calls for 41Nm (30 ft. lbs.) Also calls for "10 - 12 slow figure-eight turns" to ensure the additive is properly distributed on the clutches. Otherwise, chattering may be a problem.

Additionally, you may have fallen into the same 'trap' as others have. The 9.24" axle calls for 5oz of additive. BUT DC ONLY SELLS IN 4oz BOTTLES

Lets not forget that DC does not manufacture these axles. one does not HAVE to use the MOPAR branded additive.


Trivia:
What does the acronym MOPAR stand for?

raptor01

I'll take a shot at the acronym MOPAR. According to the '72 Roadrunner I had I'd have to say MOPAR stands for:
My
Old
Pig
Ain't
Runnin

bpeebles

(raptor01) NOPE... nice try ;->

Hint... It is related to somthing that Chrysler corp. offered to customers in the 50s & 60s that was somwhat unique for an automobile manufacturer to offer.

blubelle

I have been reading all I can on Synthetic Lube for the rear axle of my 01 Quad with 4.7 automatic and can't yet decide what brand of lube to use. Moble 1,Red Line,or Amsoil. I see claims of from a 4% to 5% increase in mpg. Which makes its use very cost effective besides the longer gear life. Also why does the rear cover have to be taken off? It seems like the lube could be sucked out or one of the rear axle cover bottom cap screws could be removed and let it drain out. Any info or wisdom would be appreciated.

bpeebles

(blubelle) Why just the REAR diff? do not forget the front diff and the xfer case.

Use whatever lube you choose. You will never exceed the limits of any of them. Here are a few other choices.

http://www.citgo.com/default.asp
http://www.castrolusa.com/default.asp
http://www.cen-pe-co.com/

As for using a hose to drain the rear diff... The fluid is so very viscous that is resists being sucked thru a small-diamator hose. Besides, this method will NEVER remove all the old fluid.

To do the job properly, the cover needs to be removed and time allowed for the viscous stuff to drain. (at least 30 minutes)


IMPORTANT: If you have the TRAC-LOC LSD, there is an additive that MUST be included. (Many of the synth lubes INCLUDE the additive allready.)

raptor01

TRIVA: I'll take another stab at it (thats what OJ said when asked if he would remarry)
MOPAR= Management Of Post Attack Resouces

bpeebles

(raptor01) Even closer... If one thinks that the 'attack' is a race and you just lost.... what do you do next?

raptor01

I'm not sure I follow your clue. Is it Acquisitions or am I reaching.

bpeebles

MOPAR originally was an acronym for "MOtor PARts"

When Dodge/Chry/Ply were "competing" with GM and FOMOCO during the heyday of street dominance. There were factory "parts" available from Chrysler that could turn your docile street machine into a real beast. Today MOPAR still follows this tradition by offering performance parts that will bolt right on to your Dakota and make more power. (ex... a performance engine computer is available from MOPAR)


Next trivia... Why is the RAMS HEAD the emblem for Dodge?

raptor01

Hope were not getting off topic with the trivia but I enjoyed it. I guess I need multiple choice answers like What does R/T stand for:
A. Really Terrific
B. Road & Track
C. Rapid Transit
I will be TDY (Temporary DutY) for the next week but will ponder the Rams head question while I'm away.

tuvtest

Raptor01- Road and Track a term first used in 1966 on the MY67 Coronets in the musclecar was against the GTO
Bpeebles- wish I had access to the board over the weekend to answer your quiz. FOr the new question. I belive it is a spinoff of the old Ad campaign of "Dodge Trucks- Ram Tough" and a modification of the Ram's head used as a hood ornament in the 70's. Chrysler Corp. wanted to give better brand identity to it's divisions in the early 90's,rather than just sharing the pentastar on different color backgrounds, so Dodge got the ram's head, Plymouth got a picture of a old sailing ship, and Chrysler got the wings. Now with Diamaler taking over I think (IMO) all of Chysler is getting the shaft, but that's another story altogether.

iowabigguy

If I'm not mistaken I recall seeing a rams head hood ornament on early 50s Dodge cars. Rick

tuvtest

well that's pre-me I know they are known for Ram induction back then but don't recall seing the ram hood ornament on the show cars I've see, nor the referance books I've got (he says scraching his head). Now I've got something to do tonite rather than sit in front of the boob tube. I get to dig out my books again.Wait, something just popped into my noggin. Wasn't on of the old whale Hemi's known as the "Red Ram Hemi"?.. is that it?

bookitty

Guys, I remember seeing the Ram's head radiator ornament on 30's Dodges. My neighbor had a '39 with the bullfrog headlamps and fenders generally as thick as current car frames. And,unfortunately,
that's not all I remember. I have rocks in my backyard that I remember as loose soil.

Bookitty

skylerk

Vic,
I just posted the correct instructions for turning the horn chirp on and off over in the Dakota FAQ topic. Here's a link: >

On a similar subject, I also posted the corrected instructions for programming additional transmitters (which I had to figure out because I accidentally deprogrammed one of my transmitters while trying to figure out how to disable the horn chirp). Here's a link to that post: >

Skyler

pomyc

Per your suggestion, I am following up in the MX topic regarding the A/C compressor temperature cutoff while using the defrost. Again, I was under the impression (and it seems you are too) that the A/C compressor will not activate when in the defrost mode IF the ambient temp. falls below a certain temp. This past weekend was the first time I extensively utilized the defrost in my 2000 Dakota (4.7/4WD/auto/3.55/LSD)in extreme conditions while pheasant hunting in a COLD Kansas blizzard. Both days the temps. easily approached single digits however I noted the compressor remained on throughout. Do you or anyone else know the exact variables for this supposed automatic cutoff and does it seem something maybe amiss with by beloved Dakota??? Thanks again for your response - this is a very informative forum!

steve234

I would not worry about it. One factor could be that the compressor is operating in reverse cycle. An A/C works by removing the heat from an area using the enthalpy of a chemical (freon) reacting to changes in pressure. By reversing the flow cycle, the A/C can produce heat that will also remove moisture.

pomyc

I did not know that was how the thing worked, all I knew was that the A/C system removed moisture. Do you think this would still negatively impact gas mileage? I would suspect it would as the compressor still had to be activated. I have noticed the compressor requires the engine to idle at about 1000 RPM's more. Thanks for the input!

steve234

Today's compressors are fairly efficient compared to earlier models. It is cheaper to run with the A/C on than to roll the windows down. Yes, they pull some juice, but I doubt if it drops the mileage more than a tenth or so. If you want to get better mileage, get really narrow tires like 85 series. It would probably do more to help than cutting out the compressor. One other nice thing about the defrost cycle is that the hardest thing for a compressor is long periods of inactivity. The seals get more brittle and will wear out earlier.

bpeebles

(steve234) The AC compressor in the 2000 Dakota never works as a heat pump. There have been several people that reported lower MPG due the use of the AC system. (3-5 MPG less.)

(pomyc) According to the BOB, when describing the operation of the Low Pressure Cycling Clutch Switch says the following.
"lower ambient temperatures below about -1C (30F), will also cause the switch to open. This is due to the pressure/temperature relationship of the refrigerant in the system."

(There are other factors at work here too...because the AC will still run at VERY low outside temps.)

You are observant to note that the AC compressor is 'active' at almost all settings of the "air direction" knob. There are only 3 settings that do not turn on the AC. (one of them is the OFF position, the other 2 are "feet" and "vent")

I have mentiond the very poor design of the system that INSITSTS that the AC be engauged in the DEFROST setting. Not only does this WASTE my $$ in fuel, It also stresses the system in below 0F weather. Other automobiles have a "button" to engauge/disengauge the AC completely.

stnick

As I recall on some earlier Mopar vehicles that had the ac button, even with the button disengaged, when you set the control to def, compressor came on automatically, as long as ambient temps were below 36 to 40 F. I have as of a few minutes ago tested my 00 QC 4.7 defrost mode in the garage, temp 26'f, compressor cycles on and off, on about 15 seconds and works as usual, ie evap tube cold, condenser warm. All other vehicles I have owned did not run comp. below 35'. DC must really want the ac seals lubed. Stnick

96g11

I modified my 2000 Quad when it was only 1 week old by installing a switch to cut off the a/c compressor whenever I wanted. It is really easy to do if you have any automotive electrical experience or know someone who does. I was an aviation electrical/electronics technician for search and rescue helicopters in the Coast Guard. Some time ago I posted the instructions on how to perform this simple modification and got a lot of mixed opinions (flack) for even suggesting such a thing. Well it has been almost a year now and no problems have developed and the 2001 Quads now have a switch for this purpose. There are times I want to have recycled air and not run the compressor. Everything in corporate auto land is a compromise so sometime we have to take matters into our own hands to suit ourselves.

tuvtest

Well...I for one give up do we get the answer soon.
In the meantime, here's an easy one:
"What TV 2 shows had a Dodge truck as a star. (ok, maybe co-star, depending on your point of view)You must have both answers to get the points. Points are redeamable in the accessories Department of your local Dodge dealer.

resqman

I believe the rescue truck Roy Desoto and Johnny Gauge drove was a Dodge truck in the show Emergency!

The show was about two EMS personel working in a fire station in California in the 70's.

tuvtest

OK, that was the easier of the two, you get 1/2 pts. The first few episodes used a real LA county squad of 1969 vintage. Later episodes used one of three 1 1/2 ton Dodge chassis-cabs. One of the originals was donated (after restoration) to the Smithsonian to comemorate the show's boosting of this nation's EMS system.

tuvtest

OK, that was the easier of the two, you get 1/2 pts. The first few episodes used a real LA county squad of 1969 vintage. Later episodes used one of three 1 1/2 ton Dodge chassis-cabs. One of the originals was donated (after restoration) to the Smithsonian to comemorate the show's boosting of this nation's EMS system.

tinyivan

I read that the differential fluid should be changed at 12000 miles (I believe this is under Schedule B in the service manual for 2000). However, when asking around, no one I spoke to EVER changed their differential fluid. I will not be towing and do not do alot of off road driving so what is a reasonable interval? I think those are two extremes on the scale, never vs. every 12000 miles. Thanks for the info.

-TI

sorcerer

Walker Texas Ranger drives a Ram Truck.
Think he's had about a dozen of them by now...

bpeebles

(tinyivan) You are correct about the 12000 miles under schedule"B" while schedule"A" does not seem to call for changing the axle fluid in 120K miles.

There is obviously a middle-ground here. I have NEVER used the schedure"B" on ANY of my vehicles. (Engine oil changes every 7,500 miles with NEVER a lubrication-related problem.)

Choose your own comfort level for your axle-lube replacements. I have had rear ends (Differentials) get "sloppy" after many miles. Also LSD systems are hard on the lubricant under some conditions. Two good reasons to spend a few bucks and use a non-dino lube.

tuvtest

DOH!.. you get double points, I compleatly brain-farted on that one. I gave up on that show years ago, and I forgot that after the first year having a Chevy he switched to a Ram. The show I was thinking of is in the same genre and I think from the same network if memory serves (altough you proved that maybe it doesn't). Actually he's had just 1, just like there was only one General Lee, that's how tough Dodge's are.

nortx01qc

Wasn't the truck on Lassie a Dodge?

fat_fenders

I believe the truck on Lassie was a mid-fifties Ford F-100. '53 maybe?

victx

How about the show Simon & Simon? two detective brothers, one owned a big Dodge 4x4.

tuvtest

We Have a winner! The character played by Gerald McRaney had a 79 Dodge Power Wagon 4x4.( loved that truck, had a similar one) You can redeam your points at your local Dodge Dealer for prizes.
OK, here's another easy one for the weekend.

"What was the 2nd fastest vehicle,beat only by the Corvette, commonly available from and American automaker in 1978, besting both the Camaro and Firebird."

BPeebles- we're still waiting to find out the history of the Ram's head.

jam12

Ocasionally when traveling up slight hills the engine will stutter or miss slightly. This only occurs at speeds of about 55 to 65 mph and in OD (Automatic). It never does it when it kicks down into 2nd or third for passing. I seem to remember reading about this once before but don't remaember what the fix was. There was some mention of a TSB. Can anyone help?

gt350c

'78 Dodge Lil red xpress, this vehicle would also take a single exhausted SS454 and was respectable agianst a first series lightning, the 360 Hi Perf. engine was also available on the limited series 300. Back in '91 I had a Shelby Dakota and thought I was bad, that truck was badder. Later I bought one of the 300's with the 360 hi perf engines and raced my dakota, same story

tuvtest

You got it. The thing that made the E58 360 even better in the trucks was that as a truck there were next to nothing for emmision controls that had to be applied to cars. Ah, those were the days...

stnick

Here is an update regarding my last post #345 about ac comp. running at low ambient temps. I tested in the garage, the trucks temp said 26'f, and the compressor ran intermittently when in def or bi level. Today I tried it again and also last thursday. Thursday outdoor temp was 24' and the compressor did NOT run this time. Today it was 34' verified by 2 thermometers and once again, the comp did not run. So I must conclude that DC is still using an ambient cut out switch as has been the case in most vehicles over the past years. Evidently, it was warmer in the garage than indicated on the Quads thermometer when I first tried it. Sorry for long post, but thought it might make some of you more comfortable to know ac doesn't run when its cold out. I would assume most of your trucks are the same. Thanks, Stnick

ohc_baby

(stnick) Actually, you're right about there being an ambient 'switch'. The ambient thermometer is on the passenger-side of the truck, just behind the radiator on the vertical member that supports it. The PCM decides, based on that and other inputs, whether or not the compressor runs.

bpeebles

(ohc_baby) On the 2000 Dakota the Ambient temp sensor doubles as the BATTERY TEMPERATURE SENSOR and is mounted underneath the battery.

It is used to determine the voltage regulation of the alternator as well as several other variables that the PCM controls. (It is intrinsic to the LEARNING algorithm for the engine control which I have detailed previously)

For the 2000 Dak, there is NO MENTION of this sensor affecting the AC compressor in the BOB. I have read the BOB from cover to cover several times. Please help me...on which page of BOB did you read this fact about a sensor behind the rediator?

Please reference append #344 for further info on the operation of the cutout switch. It is based on the PRESSURE within the AC system relative to the ambient temperature.

pomyc

I was the one who opened the can of worms on this one (refer to post #340) and I must confess I am still a bit confused on if the A/C compressor operates below a certain temp. As I mentioned in post #340, I extensively utilized the defrost system for two days with temps in the single digits (well below zero with windchills) and I noted that the compressor was "active" throughout.

bpeebles - so, as you mentioned in post #344, both pressure AND temp play a role in activating the compressor? Am I then to assume that the variables I encountered on my pheasant hunting trip were not sufficient to warrant the compressor to not activate?

Sorry for all of the confusion, I am just trying to understand why my system did not operate as I thought. Again, thanks for all of your input fellas.

ohc_baby

Well, if you pop the hood on a 2001, the thermometer is next to the radiator.

iowabigguy

I had my truck into the dealer today for the TSB addressing the deposits that build up in the filler tube. The cap they installed was as previously discussed but for the newer folks instead of having an open bottom it has a molded bottom so that it appears to be a solid plug rather than a hollow plug. I assume this is to reduce the volume of the area the fumes have to rise into. The "baffle" is a plastic insert which fits inside the filler neck and probably is there to cause the fumes to condense on the baffle rather than rise up into the top part of the filler tube. Seems to me the gunk will still accumulate but it will now be out of sight. Rick

pttaylor

Whats with these lame catalyitic converters on Dakotas??? This is the 2nd one for mine (1998 3.9L/Auto) and with only 47K (1st was at 22K). And I think the ridiculous practice of having customers bring vehicle in for confirmation is just their way of putting you through the BS so you won't be as quick to bother them with warranty problems in the future. They don't make as much money from DC for this kind of work. You don't have to be in charge of the potato salad at the MENSA picnic to figure this one out! 5 star service ploy is just phoney smoke screen by the "D" in DC.

s4016

I had a converter start ratteling on me and assumed it was because of a deer accident I had, thinking the shock broke the inside. The dealer had no problem adding it to the total cost of the accident. Which by the way was a little over $7000, and their body shop did the repairs. That was at 56319 miles. Now after another 45000 miles the rattle is back. When I went back to the dealer I was informed that since I didn't pay for the last replacement the new converter isn't covered past the 80k warranty of the original!! What should I do, Try another "5 Star Dealer"???
Should the new converter be covered?

bpeebles

(s4016) Are you aware that ALL of the emmision-control stuff is waranteed by the FEDERAL GOVERMENT for a specific number of years??
The manufacturers are MANDATED to replace defective Emmisions-control equipment!!

Depending on the year your rig was manufactured, the mandated warantee can be from 5 to 10 years.
(The feds changed the rules reciently)

s4016

thanks for the quick response. I'm gonna check with the dealer again. I can't understand why they would refuse to replace the thing, since it's not costing them anything. FYI, '97 RC V-8

spike50

After switching my wife's '98 Dodge Stratus over to Mobil 1 filter and oil at the 36,000 mile mark, my oldest son took it off-roading. Complete loss. Since I had 4 qts of Mobil 1 left I decided to buy two more and do the QC today (at 8,400 mile mark) and find out why everyone complains about changing the filter.

Kind of liked wiping oil off of the front member for a half hour. Now it looks like new. Also 6 qts took the level right to the "SAFE" line on the dipstick.

Plenty of room underneath to work, unlike my '85 Volvo wagon that was lowered all the way around by 2".