Dodge Dakota: Problems & Solutions

cowtownkid

themaguy,I received my truck 3/18/00, at the time I turned truck in to the dealer I had 8900 miles and this was after a 1700 mile trip, couldn't afford to drive truck very much!!! I was hoping to see an improvement in mileage as I approached 10000 miles but it wasn't happening.

cowtownkid

edwardqc

Thanks for all your inputs on transmission roar and as some of you thought, the fan. After further testing, it is the transmission and only occurs when cold and I'm just starting out in D. The fan I have listened for and have now heard it, but it is not the same sound(i.e. it's not nearly as noticeable). So I suppose a dealer trip is in order to make sure all is well. If this is normal, it's going to take some getting used to.

Changing Oil is a pain with the 4WD with skid plates. There's an access hole for the plug and the filter about 4" diameter, but of course neither will drain without also draining into the skid plate(the oil plug) or the front 4.7 access cover(the filter) and onto a portion of the front suspension. I can get around the skid plate problem by removing it, but what about that front access cover. Admittedly, I was afraid to pop off those plastic connectors(I didn't want to break them). It also may be that there's some tool out there(i.e. a special funnel?) that fits into the access hole to allow normal draining. Anyone out there got any ideas or experiences? Thanks in advance.

bookitty

Edward, my service center removed the front splash shield (carefully using a special tool that
is used specifically for those plastic buttons) but did not remove the skid plate. In retrospect, they are sorry that the skid plate was not removed
as clean up took more time than the removal. The technician made a funnel out of a gallon plastic windshield washer fluid jug. Worked okay more or less. It's a messy job at best, since the OEM filter was installed by "superthumb" and it is a difficult task at best. This is on a hoist, and I hate to think of this job as being accomplished in the driveway.

Bookitty

bpeebles

The mechanical fan is VERY noticeable! It roars so
loud that the engine 'sounds' as if it is
over-reving for about a mile (or until about 2500 RPM is acheived long enough to 'disengauge' the durn thing. ). (And I have the manual xmission so I KNOW it is not the automatic making the sound.)

THe electric fan is hard to hear from inside the
truck. Are you SURE that you were listening to the
proper fan?

I just do not want you to head down the wrond
"roar road" (automatic xmissin)

mailman54

bepeebles: I don't know what the roaring sound on your manual transmission 4.7 is, but on my auto 4.7 the only roaring sound I experience is when the transmission fails to upshift out of first in Drive when the transmission fluid is cold. I had the same problem with my 91 5.2 auto so I am used to it by now. It takes about a quarter mile before it will upshift properly or I can short circuit it by stomping the gas, then quickly letting up and it will drop into second (probably not a good idea). Once the transmission fluid reaches optimal temperature it shifts great, no more roar. I never experienced this with automatics in my cars so this was a shock the first time I drove a Dodge truck when cold in the morning. Only seems to happen when the truck has been sitting out all night and I initially start it up and put it into Drive. Took my 91 to the dealer right away after it happened and they gave me the usual "it's normal for Dodge trucks" when the transmission fluid is cold.

edwardqc: Hope this helps.

Mailman

maxwelwp

I've read with interest the posts about flashing the computer with updated codes. I ordered my 00 QC end of Jan this year and took delivery 2nd week of March. It's also the 4.7L, auto, 4x4 but with the std 3.55 lsd with 5,000 miles on it. My mileage has, to my dismay, only averaged 12.7. Granted 90% of my driving is city freeway during rush hour, I have not seen much of an improvement on the highway. Best I've gotten to date is 15.5 mpg on one trip home with a 25 mph tail wind.

A friend at work has the same truck with a full-time transfer case. His mileage has just jumped to the 15-16 mpg range with 10,000 miles on it. Both were delivered within 1 month of each other (his older). He said it just started getting better for no reason????

Monday I take it in to have safety recall fixed for the transmission (overflow hose may be pinched causing fluid to escape out the filler tube). I will be showing them the posts about this subject and see what the response is.

Let you know what happens.

bpeebles

(maxwelwp) My MPG improved also as the engine "loosened up" with some miles on it.(4.7L presently over 12K miles) At about 8K miles, I noted that the MPG was STILL climbing.

Before 8K miles, If I got better than 170 miles between FULL and HALF tank... I considerd myself lucky.
Today, I regularly get over 200 miles before half a tank and over 310 miles before the fuel light comes on. (Spirited driving included!)

I too am curious about the FLASH. Clearly, there is room for improvement in my rigs present programming. (There are specific conditions under which I KNOW it will stall!)

cowtownaggie

Xmsn Roar:
I had a '92 dodge van w/a 318 & it for the 1st 100 - 150 yds it growled every time it was started on a cool - cold morning until I sold it w/150K miles. Even did it after a xmsn overhaul @ 115K miles. No problems w/the vehicle or xmsn because of the noise. I just got used to it & took it easy until warm up.

OIL CHANGE WITH skid plates - the best solution I found (and use) was to go to
http://www.fumotovalve.com/ and order their oil change valve. (I think the one I ordered is the F106N - you also have to order the "adaptor" because of the shape of the oil pan)

I ordered the one with the nipple ("N" designation)& it works great. just put a piece of 3/8" rubber hose on the nipple & drain into the pan with a 1/4 turn of the lever. VERY NICE!!! and nothing hangs low enough to wory about "dragging" it off on the ground. The company works over the net or by fax & they are very good to work with - I am very pleased & I do recommend them.

Hope this hepls

Cowtown Aggie

cowtownaggie

Xmsn Roar:
I had a '92 dodge van w/a 318 & it for the 1st 100 - 150 yds it growled every time it was started on a cool - cold morning until I sold it w/150K miles. Even did it after a xmsn overhaul @ 115K miles. No problems w/the vehicle or xmsn because of the noise. I just got used to it & took it easy until warm up.

OIL CHANGE WITH skid plates - the best solution I found (and use) was to go to
http://www.fumotovalve.com/ and order their oil change valve. (I think the one I ordered is the F106N - you also have to order the "adaptor" because of the shape of the oil pan)

I ordered the one with the nipple ("N" designation)& it works great. just put a piece of 3/8" rubber hose on the nipple & drain into the pan with a 1/4 turn of the lever. VERY NICE!!! and nothing hangs low enough to wory about "dragging" it off on the ground. The company works over the net or by fax & they are very good to work with - I am very pleased & I do recommend them.

Hope this helps!

Cowtown Aggie

gallen1586

On my 3.9 auto I changed tires from the stock 215's to 30x9.50. The truck looks alot better but
it has changed the shift points of the trans. and
the speedometer is off 2-3 miles per hour. My dodge dealer says on the 3.9 you can not adjust this by the computer. They say you have to change
a gear in the trans. and my truck is as close as
they can get it. Does any one know if all this true? Can anything be done?

spike50

Took off my tonneau cover and frame to do some hauling of various lawn tools for the day. When I took the frame off I saw the paint had an "orange peel" texture where the weather-strip tape (single sided tape applied to the frame) contacted the paint (down both side rails). Maybe the truck's paint wasn't fully cured prior to the tonneau frame installation or maybe the tape's solvents leached into the paint to cause to problem. I'm going to run without the tonneau for a while to see what happens - maybe nothing at this late stage (paint will remain affected).

If others have seen this and there is a remedy, please post.

slickwilliedj

has anyone purchased an dodge ext warranty for their q/c? If so for what time/mileage,and type good,better,or best and what type of deductible? price paid?
any recommendations on ext warranty is it worth it or not? thanks

bpeebles

(tgregory29) This is a wild guess..... warped Rotors?

bsparx

Called my dealer last Thurs. about the 2000 DD recall for leaking trans hose. They gave me (and about 20 others) appointments for this am at 7. I dropped off the truck, they called me at noon. "Come pick it up. We ordered the parts, we'll give you a call when they come in."

Boy does this steam me. If they have a recall, how about getting the parts they need before giving people appointments? I wasted half a day screwing around with rides to and from work and all that, and now will have to do it again! And from the recall, I understood the service to be the shortening of a hose. What parts???

Negherbon Dodge in Oakland, CA service dept. has done this type of thing every time I go in for service. They ask the problem, than give me an appointment, then just confirm the problem, and send me away. Is it a ruse so they can bill DC for more warranty jobs? First it was with the Wheel grind TSB (still not fixed, after 3 visits, parts are on order for a TSB that's been around longer than my truck), then the loose weatherstripping (3 visits to clear that up) and now the recall. I'm spending too much time with these a**h***s.

Sorry for the venting post, but everyone might want to remind your service writers to have parts on hand before they give you an appointment. Especially with a recall that the mailer says might start fires...

Be safe & good luck.
Anyone know a good dealer near Oakland, CA?

Ben

bpeebles

(bsparx) If there was ONE THING about my Dodge
dealer that really steams me it would be this!

EVERY time, they have insisted that I "bring it
in" before they would order any parts. I know what
is broken and tell them what part is needed....
"sorry, you have to "bring it in" so we can get the
serial numbers" Those BONEHEADS had my serial
numbers in their computer BEFORE I TOOK DELIVERY.


Even for a burned out HEADLAMP BULB that I
replaced myself during a trip was troublesome. They
insisted that I re-install burned out bulb and
make an appointment so they could replace it under
warantee.

bookitty

Slick, there are two sources for extended warranty
and they are the OEM manufacturer, and a private underwriter who sells after market types. The extended warranty is nothing more than an insurance policy. Another roll of the dice. I have a 7 year/75,000 Daimler/Chrysler extended warranty with a $100.00 deductible. My cost was $689.00 at time of purchase but reflects a discount offered to offset my problems with the ordering of my Quad. When my wife purchased her 4 Runner, I showed them my check entry (without divulging the reason for the discount) and after some consulting with the general manager they matched it. Do I think that it has merit, yes and no. Yes, if you encounter problems, no, if you don't. It's like buying blackjack insurance when the dealer has a face card showing.

Bookitty

maxwelwp

Well, just back from the dealership. Had the vent hose shortened for the transmission safety recall (#890). Showed them the posts about how an update to the computer increased the mileage etc. They checked the Daimler/Chrysler data banks and came back empty handed. They checked my computer and found it to be up to date. So no luck with that. Guess I'll have to wait till I get some more miles on it as bpeebles suggests and hopefully my mpg will go up to a more respectable level.

maxwelwp

(bsparx)

I was really surprised to see your post on the transmission vent hose recall. As a previous post of mine mentioned, I just had that fixed on my Dakota. Very simple procedure for me. I called the dealer, told them I received a notice, they gave me a time to come in, I went, they shortened the hose, the end.

Sounds like you may have to find a new service center. Those guys don't know which end is up the way it sounds.

Best of luck in the future
Max

bigal31

Maybe I misunderstood your post but did you say your dealer had to order parts for your tranny recall?
I took mine in Thursday at 3:00 was out at 3:15. Took 3 minutes to put it on the lift 3 minutes to lower it only to realize he could do it from under the hood 5 minutes to B/S.
I stood there and watched the Tech. clip 3" off the tranny hose vent tube. Re clip it and send me on my way.
Sounds like a crock to me, what gives??

Allen-

bookitty

Ben, this answer is not intended as blasphemy and/or disrespect:

"Forgive them, for they know not what they do."

Bookitty

steve234

A friend took his Escort to the local dealer for transmission repairs. This was his work vehicle that he could not afford to have in the shop. A few days later, he went by and saw the vehicle sitting in the back lot. He went in to see if it was done. They had just ran it up on the lift to see what parts were needed and were waiting on the parts. Since the vehicle could have been driven during the wait for parts, this was ridiculous.

slickwilliedj

is that the better or best plan?

bookitty

Slick, it is one of the better plans as it affords
a loaner for vehicles in the shop for more than 24
hours or under exceptional circumstances. There are 100,000 mile plans and plans with a greater or no deductible. This plan seemed to suit my needs based on miles driven, etc.

Bookitty

stnick

I too have the 45 to 55 mph light throttle whine in my 00 4.7, auto 3.55 lsd. Dealer service guy rode along to listen. Got impression he didn't think it was too bad, but at least could hear it. Manager suggested I put 5000 more miles on it, then see whats up. Thinks DC wouldn't want it replaced now at 4100 miles. So we will see. At least I know mine's not the only one.. stnick..

carls5

You may want to try Dublin Dodge in Dublin CA. I took my truck in for the same recall and it was fixed right away. I also question the computer upgrade that was discussed earlier to improve mileage. That got a big blank look. They checked it out but couldn't find anything about the upgrade. The technical who worked on my truck has an identical 2000 QC and was interested in anything that could be done to improve mileage but so far no luck. So far I am very happy with the support and professionalism at Dublin Dodge.
Carl

carls5

You may want to check your local Credit Union. I bought my through PATELCO and got a 5 yr. 100K. I think the cost was around $750 had a $50 ded but don't hold me that. You know they say your memory is the second thing that goes.
Carl

steel45

I just noticed the bed on my 01, QC must be out of alignment. The left tire sticks out approx. 2" more than the right.
I think blubelle was scheduled for this same problem to be fixed on 9/11.
Any news?
Yank2 also had a msg about not letting them move the rear end because of the whine problem. Yank2, did you get the bed aligned properly?
Any suggestions would be appreciated. This is the best site to visit for info.

yank2

I got the bed aligned second trip. Still playing dealer game with whine problem. No skilled labor. want me to but 1000 to 1500 miles on expect whine to go away.Next trip will get dealer rep.

fat_fenders

Not sure where the quality control is sometimes at Dodge, but my dad's bed on his '00 RC was off quite a bit also. Distance varied over 1/4" measured from box front to rear of cab. (Driver's side was closer.) That's a huge distance by the time you get to the back of the box and very obvious when comparing distance from edge of tire to wheel well opeing. That problem was corrected with a visit to the local "No-Star" Dodge dealer.

They also corrected a "sittin' too high" tranny dipstick that had rubbed through the paint on the inside of the hood.

Aligning the box shouldn't be any big deal. Good luck with yours steel45!

fat_fenders

blubelle

Well I took it in to the dealer and we discussed the problem of the right tire sticking out 3/4 inch more than the left tire. This is relative to the frame. The body stampings etc. show it is centered on the frame. This 3/4 inch translates to the rear axle being off center 3/8 inch which the dealer seems to think is within manufacturing tolerance. We checked out other QC's on the lot and found several that had a 1/2 inch offset relative to the frame. Since I have been driving it around,It drives and handles beautifully, the rear end is now only off a 1/4 inch from center. I still think this is too much and hope to get the time to run it down with some production engineer at the Dodge plant. But I don't have the time right now to pursue it. Other than this problem I'm just falling in love with the rig.

livnlrn

Was there a recall on the pads that clamp the springs together? Mine are all splayed out and no longer under the clamp. Thanks.

steve234

Make sure whether the problem is bed alignment or axle alignment. My bed is aligned pefectly, but the axle is a hair off center. I thought that that might contribute to the slight pull to the right at speed, but the dealer's mechanic suggested swapping front tires and now no more pull. Weird. I'm feeling kindly towards him. My wife complained that whenever she applied the brakes lightly, they squeaked. The mechanic agreed with me, push harder on the brakes.

blubelle

If switching right and left front tires corrected the pull problem, look out. I had this problem a number of years ago and found out one of the tires had a bad radial cord that made it sort of like a cork. That is to say that the rolling diameter of the tire is slightly different from side to side which makes it roll like a cork,sideways. In my case it was fairly severe as it initially pulled right and I switched front tires and then it pulled left. Put on the spare and consider getting the tire or tires replaced under warranty. For what its worth.

steve234

My original pull was very minor and currently the steering is more neutral. I am overly sensitive to such things and most people would not even notice the pull. If it had been a severe pull, I would have insisted on an immediate fix instead of waiting until the first oil change. What they did is a good diagnostic tool. If it continued to pull right,do an alignment. An equal pull to the left would indicate a tire problem. My case, unknown yet. My spare is for emergencies only since I had a rock go through it on the first day I had the truck.

steel45

Hey thanks, Yank2, Fatfenders, Blubelle, & Steve234 for your responses. I'll let you know what happens when I take it in for the first oil change.
I'll also take a look at the oil stick height. Seems like such a simple thing for DC to measure the space under the hood, doesn't it?
I am so in love with this truck. I've washed it twice in one week. It's black over silver so you know the problems with keeping black clean.
My wife and I are heading up to the local watering hole for a couple of drinks. I'm waiting for dusk so I can drive with the parking lifhts on. Yeah I'm vain, so what, these are neat trucks! There aren't enough o's in COOL to describe a Dakota!!

fat_fenders

I should have noted that the oil dipstick rubbing on the hood was on a '00 Dakota RC with the 3.9 V6, automatic.

Good luck with your truck steel. I'm sure it will be fine when your local 5* is done.

fat_fenders

bpeebles

(livnlrn) YES! There is a TSB on the rear leaf springs.

("Recalls" are ONLY for safety reasons, while "TSB"s are for all other items)

HERE ARE THE SB's;
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/tsb/servicemmy1.cfm

HERE ARE THE RECALLS;
http://www.nhtsa.dot.gov/cars/problems/recalls/recmmy1.cfm

slickwilliedj

tried both urls u listed and filled out forms but got no records for search response. do these recalls effect 2000 or 01 models?

bobsyvee

When entering the info for the search, the Make of vechicle must be "dodge truck". Then enter "dakota" for the model. The year is 4 digits, i.e. 2000 and not 00.

bpeebles

Thank you bobsyvee. Even that method will not capture all of the 'hits' for the 2000 Dakota.
Some of the info on NHTSA is poorly logged into the database and must be "coaxed" out with intelligent searches.

(HINT: use the RIGHT side of the search screen with the SUBMIT QUERY button.)

Everyone could improve their data-mining skills. You will be rewarded with oceans of information. The secret is to understand the search engine and what it actually 'looks' for.

ricks12

I bought a 2000 QC Sport in April. It has 10,600 miles. Friday, when I got home and turned off the ignition, what sounded like a fan motor wouldn't shut off. Apparently, it ran all night long because when I went out the following morning, the battery was dead. Called a tow truck for a jump and it took the guy about 10 tries before he could get it started. I was thinking that it might have something to do with the computer and when the battery died, it re-set it because I haven't had any more problems with it. Would you guys know what could have caused this? The lame dealership couldn't look at it until Monday but if it's nothing to worry about, I won't waste my time going back to the dealer. Thanks.

mrjake

Just wondering if anyone has had any feed-back on any paint sealer products. I just turned 100 miles on my new CC, and wondering about the DiamondKote paint sealer the dealer offers. Being how my new truck is black head to toe, I am weighing anything to help it stay looking good and glossy. Also wondering what the general opinion is on the use of synthetic oil in the 4.7?

ohc_baby

Don't sweat synthetic in the 4.7. The only reason you might not want to use synthetic is if you have a worn or low-tolerance engine. These 4.7s have very tight clearances and are ideal for synthetic 5W30, per the manual. If you live in a very warm climate, you might want to go to 10W40, or try 0-weight oil in VERY cold conditions. I put 5W30 Mobil 1 in at 200 miles and have put 2900 miles on it in the month afterward. With the usual light-duty and high mileage that my truck sees, I'm feel better about the manual's 7500 mi service interval with synthetic in it.

andy_jordan

Not sure that I would go synthetic at 200 miles. Two reasons - why change oil after 200 miles? And why risk it? To make sure that the engine has really settled in I would wait until a 'normal' oil change - say 3000 miles.

I know that some performance cars come with synthetic in them new, but I just don't think that the benefit is worth the risk on very low mileage vehicles.

jyenrav

Hello, Has anyone had anyone else had their
catalytic converter replaced on their dodge dakota pickup? I have only 35,000 miles on my
pickup and i have had my catalytic converter
replaced 2x's and each time i've had to wait
atleast a month per time for them to get one into
stock. Th reason i was given was that it was on
back order and the supplier couldnt keep up with
the orders they had. I wanted to know if this was
a cronic problem with that years model and wether
or not dodge had made any plans on fixing this problem ? I have written dodge but havent gotten a response yet. I would really appreciate your
input. thanks

carls5

I have not seen this topic discussed before but does anyone know of a reason why you should not use a fuel injector cleaner on the 4.7? Is any one brand better than another or does anyone have a preference.

I will appreciate any words of wisdom.
Carl

bpeebles

(carls5) Have you considered just running a tankfull of high-quality fuel once in a while? Most major brands of gasoline offer a hi-test that contains cleaners/carbon-removers.

I am not aware of any 'scientific' data on the effectiveness of fuel additives. (except de-icer which can save one from being stranded on a COLD COLD day.)

I have tested injectors. (actually removed and observed the spray-patterns) after many thousands of miles and have NEVER found a "cleaner" to improve a poor injector.

carls5

Bruce, no truthfully I never thought of it but it is a good idea and I will try it. I normally use either Beacon or AM-PM. I am not sure if these meet your definition of a major brand or if you were thinking more Shell or Chevron. Do you know what I should be looking for to determine that a particular brand will have the cleaner. When you say high test are you referring to going to a higher octane every so often to clean the injector. I hate to appear ignorant on these issues but I am. In the past with my older vehicles I have alway used a mid-grade gas from same stations that I now go to and every 3-4 tankfuls threw in a bottle of injector cleaner. I am not sure now if it ever helped or if I lucked out and the brand of gas happened to contain the cleaner you mention.
Carl

bpeebles

I was thinking of MOBIL because they tout their hi-grade as being "DRIVE YOUR CAR CLEAN" gas.
I realize that not everyone has access to this stuff.I beleive Sunoco and Exxon may also have this 'feature' in their hi-grade fuels. Sunoco used to have a FILTER on each hose. (Have not been to Sunoco station lately, perhaps somone else can confirm)

I am NOT saying that ALL hi-test will help to clean your fuel system. Think about WHERE the crud comes from in the first place....THE FUEL (Poor handling, dirty trucks, pooly maintained ungerground tanks...etc)

The worst fuel problem I ever had was on my motorcycle... I bought fuel from a no-name station near a lake....I barely made it home and found a 1/2 inch of water in the fuel tank. I suspect their underground tanks were leaking.

livnlrn

Okay, I found a TSB or maybe more than one that is similar to problems that I am seeing in my truck. Now what do I do? Print them out and bring it to the dealer? Do the dealers already know these things? Are these "approved fixes" that I shouldn't have to fight to get? What does a TSB do for me I guess. Thanks bpeebles