Don't think so. The problem I see here is the pathetic website listed. I've NEVER had crashes like that on my Mac. I'm used to it on my Windoze thingy at work, but NOT my Mac. Absolutely the worst website I've (n)ever visited. Their HTML just plain HURLS. I had to rebuild from scratch - TWICE! And then... Oh, well just forget it.
Until they can get a workable site with a 'sane' name, find a 'better' air filter than K-N, conform (fully) to SJ specs - like the rest of the synthoils, at least in their test results - and can convince me of their 'superiority' both scientifically and 'long-term real world other wise,' I'll keep using K & N filters and Mobil 1 or Royal Purple (aka as the 'best' synthoil on the planet). Sounds a bit like 'pushy' marketing to me. I've never had anything but positive comments (until now) about Amsoil, BUT this type of pot-shot at a 'known' quality product & silly tree-hugging-name crap is what keeps me from buying products like that in the first place. I drive a truck not a tree, and cars and boats and motorcycles; BTW - I'm a state certified environmentalist and hydrologist (and a petroleum geologist by trade). 'Guard-our-earth?' Get real.
Or believe 'Earth in the Balance' without question like the rest of the lemmings. NOT!
Other than those little details, everything's just hunky-dory, but I did have a REALLY bad day. :-(
I thought a little controversy would be a kick in the pants for our little corner of Edmunds. What do I get for all the trouble? Larry, Moe and Curly. You people are never going to be anything but humorous and entertaining. I guess I'll go have that cup of decaf now. decaf now. decaf now.
.........and that it was a component quality problem. And I think Chrysler did start to use better quality brake rotors. I'm not sure when, but people with 2002s and 2003s are not complaining about any brake issues as far as I can tell.
Some of the other issues that were listed I don't believe were heritary in nature, and represent single-one off problems. These should have been resolved by the dealer the first time.
It's funny how different people think of quality in different ways. I work with a fellow that has has numerically almost the same amount of problems as the both of you combined, yet he has no problem with the over 40 visits to the dealer. And, he's committed to buying another GM truck. This seems to be irrespective of his experience.
with their tack holding constant rpm. When idling my tack fluctuates 100 rpm. Is this normal? Just looking for some of the expert advice that is available on this forum before I talk to the dealer.
(carls5) Two Questions: (I assume 4.7L HEMI V8) How many miles on your rig? Are you moving or sitting still?
The 4.7L has to 'learn' your driving habits and environmental conditions. (Especially the idle-while-rolling conditions) Experience is that it takes up to 4000 miles for this to settle-out.
bpeebles - yep 4.7 V8 with auto. Currently have around 5600 pleasurable miles on the rig. I only notice this condition when standing still. It may occur when moving but I have not observed it. This condition has always been present but I thought it would go away as the computer became use to my erratic driving but the condition is still there and I am starting to wonder if this is natural. By the way my truck was one of those that was help up for two-three weeks by a DC QA check around the end of March. I was told, unofficially by DC that the holdup was because of fuel pump problems. Don't know if this is related or not, just throwing it in for the h-ll of it.
Ok guys I have a strange one I believe! I visited some relatives this weekend who lived 200 miles away. The problem started when I stopped at a station and the door locks went crazy! They started going up and down and making clicking noises like it was trying to lock again after it was already locked. they finally stopped and I resumed my jaunt. As I was driving down the road they started doing the same thing! It seems they just get a mind of there own once in a while. today I stopped for gas and it locked the door after I shut it! good thing I took my keys out. 2000 Quad Cab 4.7 auto with keyless entry and factory alarm system.Anybody else experience this problem? This is the first problem I have had in the first 9000 miles. I got my best mileage this trip 19.1 mpg but, that was no one but me and no load. 65 to 70 most of the way.
This problem was mentioned by another Quadder earlier. I don't recall seeing the fix. I had the same problem with my 94 Dodge Caravan. Heard strange noise coming from garage. Went to check and the doors were locking themselves continousely as fast as they could. Disconnected the battery since it was just about dead anyway.
Dealer replaced the computer module (~$300) and the problem stopped. The doors had done this several times intermittently over a few years. Once while I was pulling into an amusement park. For a minute or two the locks just had a big party. Stopped just as suddenly as it started. Really erie feeling.
Please post the fix since you are not the first to report this problem.
At about 3,000 miles had same problem with door locks. Mine started one night when the Quad was parked in the garage. Interior lights would come on and the door locks would go crazy. It was a very stromy night, I thought it might have something to do with all of the static electricity in the air. I popped the fuse out, put it back in the next morning and everything was fine. No problems since then.
I made an appointment today with the dealer. they will check it out on friday so, I will keep you posted on what they find. This problem continued for the 2 days of my trip and the weather was perfect so I believe it must be a computer or an electrical short of some kind.
Some time back there was a discussion about split fire plugs. Can't remember all the details, (age and liquour issues, but that is another story..) but I do remember that the design of the 4.7L semi-hemi is designed with a special spark plug set-up and split fires were not thought to be a good idea.
re sparkplugs. This was discussed a while back. The BOB "Big Orange Book:2000 Dakota shop manual" states that the use of any plug other than the specified plug could have adverse affects on engine operation and performance. The plugs used are copper core (what ever that means). I have read that there is a comparable Autolite copper plug that has been used with reported improvement in engine smoothness at idle. Rick
(iowabigguy) Copper-Core plugs have are manufactured with a high-thermal-conductivity core. (Copper in this case)
The copper excels in pulling the heat away from the center-electrode and sending it into the metal threads where it can be dissipated into the aluminum head of the engine. (The aluminum head is ALSO a good thermal conductor and aids in heat-dissapation.)
Some plugs also have a platinum center electrode which is VERY impervious to '"wear". (Platinum is a relatively inert material) thus it can me made much smaller than a 'standard' center-electrode which promotes a more localized spark.
HOWEVER I believe you are mistaken about the BOB. (From Memory) I believe it states that the 4.7V8 has copper side-electrodes on the spark plugs. And warns about pre-ignition if these are not used.
Why all this copper? (Besides, GOLD is a better conductor!) The intent is to keep the tip of the spark plugs 'cool' enough to keep them from igniting the FA mixture prematurely (pre-ignition). The 'risk' of making the plug tips too 'cool' would cause a build-up of combustion by-products on them during warm-up/idle conditions.
Bottom line: Keep the plug tips within a specific heat-range to burn off the crud but also not cause pre-ignition.
I will post the details on spark-plug design only if pressed... I do not want to go beyond the scope of this forum.
We might be saying the same thing. Here is the quote from "BOB" in section 8D-14 "Caution: The 4.7L V-8 engine is equipped with copper core ground electrode type spark plugs. They must be replaced with the same type/number spark plug as the original. If another spark plug is substituted, preignition will result."
I believe this is what I paraphrased in the previous message.
When I looked under my hood to answer the question about servicing spark plugs I found something I can't figure out (I can't figure out lots of things but this one is for today). On both the left and right bank of sparkplugs, second plug in from the radiator, there is a small black cube with a receptacle. It is mounted on the stud that secures the coil tower to the intake manifold and it has nothing plugged into it, at least on my Quad. In looking through the BOB I've found they are identified as Cap #1 and Cap #2. They look like .47mF capacitors that are on the output side of the fuel injectors. I assume they are there for noise suppression. My wiring harness does not have the mating plug for these caps. Does anyone elses Quad have these and are they hooked up? When I ordered my Quad I got the base radio, maybe that is the difference. If they are present and hooked up on other Quads I bet (guess here!) that it is on the Infinity radios that have the amplifiers mounted on the speakers. Maybe they are more susceptible to impulse noise. Any input appreciated. Rick
(iowabigguy) This has been covered before and really should be part of the FAQ.
Your investigation is correct in that they are 0.47mF capacitors. The electrical diagram calls these out but in reality the connectors are missing from the wiring harness. (although the capacitors themselves are installed on the engine.)
Basically, any capacitance added between +12v supply to the injectors and engine ground will help eliminate voltage spikes caused by the impedance of the injector coils. (Basic analog electronics circuit design when driving coils with a digital signal.) The intent is NOT to affect a radio. Instead the intent is to protect the ECU (Engine Control Unit or COMPUTER) from voltage spikes (over 100volts) due to the impedance of the coils within the injectors. Another benefit would be to improve the instantaneous current delivery that the injector coils theoretically will draw each time they are actuated.
Why are they not connected on the 2000 Dakota? I haven't got a clue... but I surmise that that the capacitors are 'installed' when the engine is assembled but the wiring harness does not have the connectors because the vendor that builds the harness does not install the connectors.
It would be interesting to peek under the hood of a JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE which is where the 4.7L V8 made its debut. The BOB for the Dakota was obviously copied from the JGC. (4.7L sections) Perhaps this would point to an answer.
I'm going out of town for a couple of weeks and will be disconnecting the battery on my Dakota. I know you can pull out fuse #12 to stop the interior draw, but I have an after market alarm which is spliced into the electrical system before the fuse cutoff and will drain the battery even if the fuse is pulled.
Is there any harm in disconnecting the negative post only and leaving the positive connected, or is it better to disconnect both?
(playhard_50) It is good that you are thinking of your battery while your rig will be idle for a while. A lead-acid battery 'ages' faster anytime it is not at FULL charge. Chemical reactions cause a build-up of an insulating deposit on the plates anytime the pH (Percent of Hydrogen Ions) level of the electrolyte is not fully stabilized. This buildup (Sulfur ions) reduces the current capacity of a lead-acid battery permanently. This is the primary reason for lead-acid battery's to fail.
The main drawback I can think of about disconnecting the battery on your Dakota is that the onboard computer(s) will loose there volatile memory. This means that some of the 'learned' settings will be lost. This is the main reason that the system was designed to have the removable fuse that does not affect the computer memory.
A better choice would be to procure a "battery maintainer" that plugs into a 125v outlet and will keep the battery at peak condition for many months if needed. These are basically a "wall wart" plug with a quick-disconnect pigtail that stays on your truck once it it installed. These devices are around 20$ (US) and actually "monitor" the battery to eliminate overcharging.
(playhard_50) WHOOPS... I somtimes get carried away and forget to actually answer the question.
Disconnecting either or both of the battery connectors will suitably isolate the battery from any draining effects.
For SAFETY reasons, some say it is considerd better to disconect the earth, ground, negitive (-) terminal first. Conversly, the (-) should be connected last when hooking back up.
I am compelled to remind you of the very explosive hydrogen gas that a battery normally produces. (Remember the hindenburg blimp!) Watch out for sparks!! PLEASE wear eye protection.
Has anyone noticed just how much the hood flexes at the hinges when closing? Mine seems to flex quite a bit. I don't feel there is enough reinforcement at the hinge/hood joint. I can just see a replay of the old chevy hoods (about 1974-1981) hoods where they would buckle and crack. I hope I am wrong. UNTIL WE KNOW FOR SURE...OIL THOSE HINGES AT EVERY OIL CHANGE!!
I would reccommend that you head on down to your local motorcycle shop and invest in a Battery Tender brand trickle charger. I use one on my motorcycles,lawnmowers and cars when they are unused for a period of time. They are theybest on the market and the safest according to Motorcycle Consumer News.They will not spark if hooked up wrong or the leads touch together. It has lights on the front that tell you the status of the charge or if the charger is hooked up correctly. It is self regulating and only charges if the battery needs it otherwise, it is in a standby/storage mode. They cost about $50-60 if my memory serves me correct, an excellent thing to have around for many purposes. OK enough of my campaign speech!
(96g11) I noted the very same thing on the hood of my Dak. After some white-lithium grease and then working it in.... the hood moves freely now.
Of course you are correct... this should be extended to say all moving parts should be lubed regularly. This includes doors, tailgate, hood (hinges and latch in all cases.)
I had to replace the 'pins-n-bushings' in the door hinges of my first 2 cars before I learned keep them lubed. White-Lithium grease is waterproof and easy to spray into the nooks/crannies. (but can be a bit messy)
It is not a question of quantity but more a function of regularly being the key here. Too much grease will just get all over the place with no lubricating benefits in the right places.
A good dealer will lube these items at every oil change. (That is why they call it a LOF...Lube Oil and Filter)
I have a '00 CC, SLT 4X2 with 15X8 wheels; I recently purchased the R/T 17X9 wheels. I would like to know if anyone has mounted 275/60 or 275/55 tires on the R/T wheels, without any rubbing or other problems. I don't plan on installing any body lifts.
Where, how and what did you pay for the R/T wheels. I wanted to put them on my 4x4 Quad. The dealer said they would order me some for $245.00 each. I don't know if they will rub. I asked about going up from 31x10.5 to 32x11.5 and was told they would rub. Let me know what you find out.
My front bumper was lower on the passenger side than the other, by 1/2-3/4 inch. I could stick my thick fingers between the bumper and the turn signal lights on that side.
Took it in yesterday. They aligned the bumper and the hood and now everything is equal. Looks much better. Just a product of sloppy final fit and finish at the factory.
I don't know what happened to my previous post (#85) about the R/T wheels. I got the wheels from a local Dodge dealership. I ordered the wheels by part #82205708 for $164 per wheel with a 10% discount for ordering 5 wheels ($144 per wheel).
I canvassed 3 dealerships in my area and got quotes from $164-$202 when asking for the wheels by part number and $500-$560 when asking for the wheels for a Dakota R/T. The dealers/counter persons can set there own price for parts. Apparently when asking for the wheel by name the wheel is considered an OEM replacement item and when asking by part number the wheel is considered and after-market item, thus the big difference in price. Do not order by name and be prepared for a back order (There warehouse(s) can't keep up with the demand).
Thanks for the information. I am going to call my dealerships parts dept. see what they say. Let me know if you hear anything about tire sizes that will fit and not rub.
I have a `97 Dakota SLT 4WD with V6 and it will not idle. It runs fine except that it quits when you let off the gas. I think there is an idle sensor and I think that's the problem. Has anyone replaced these? If so, what's a ballpark on the sensor and where is it located?
gsul--I've been told by others who have changed tires that the 275s should not rub, but seeing is believing. The dealer in my area charges $35 to reset the computer to compensate for the tire size change. If the computer is not reset, it could effect the speedo, odo, ABS systems and shift points for auto trans.
iowabigguy--The price DOES include the center caps.
By the way, the parts people were surprised that I had the part number (I got from the Dakota Mailing List).
The answer is a bit beyond the 'scope' of this forum... Remember, you asked...
A 'quickie' way to search the DML topics is using the search ability built into your browser.
A more advanced method is to use a robot or 'worm' that crawls thru all of the appends and builds a searchable database for you on your computer.(The download and database build may take 'hours' but then ALL of the data is available to search without being online thereafter) ... Basic data management stuff... Free software tools are available online to do this kind of stuff.
I hope this explanation makes sense to you...
I believe that the DML uses an ORACLE database as their front-end. There may be an 'online' way to perform database queries against the data. (Sorry for being long-winded but I make my living doing this computer 'stuff' )
I have a slight issue with my 01 Quad Cab. At any speed, when taking off from a dead stop, when driving over uneven surfaces, I hear a muffled metallic thump or knock (pop) coming (best I can tell) from the floor area on the passenger side.
I had it to the dealer once already for an entire day. Nothing found, "technician" checked suspension, body mounts etc and didn't find anything. Tomorrow it's going back as supposedly, two of the "body noise experts" would be back in the shop as they were on vacation last week.
I've been under the truck myself checking, pulling, pushing and pounding in different areas but cannot duplicate the noise. Grrrr.
It seems to be getting louder or I'm more annoyed by it the longer I need to listen to it. One of the emails from the the DML I received tonight mentioned a TSB on cab/body mounts from '97 up.
Anyone on here ever hear of that or can confirm the TSB so I can share that with my dealer?
Service Bulletin Number: 130100 Bulletin Sequence Number: 999 Date of Bulletin: 0001 NHTSA Item Number: SB610019 Make: DODGE TRUCK Model: DAKOTA Year: 2000 Component: SUSPENSION Summary: SOME VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT A CONDITION WHERE A SNAPPING, POPPING OR CLUNKING NOISE MAY BE HEARD WHILE DRIVING OVER BUMPS.
Thanks! I'll take this with me to the dealer today when i take my truck in to be looked at. Might save them a bunch of time and prevent me from having to leave it there longer than I want to.
Picked up my 01 Dakota Quad today from dealer service. I had taken a copy of the above recall and some other TSBs I found along when I took the truck in. Interestingly enough, it was what I first suspected when I took the truck in last week.
I had originally told the manager that I felt it was something suspension related like the torsion bars.
Well, guess what, that's what it was. Apparently, the torsion bar on the right (passenger) side was not seated all the way forward in the lower a-arm. This caused the bar to bottom out on ever little bump and with the slightest twist on the frame.
Rides quiet now. Thanks everyone for the input. It was appreciated even though it turned out to be something unrelated to the body.
I have a 00 Quad with 5 speed. The clutch is squeaky everytime you push it in. It sounds like the rubber bushing rubbing. I tried spraying some white lithium grease around the bushings, but to no avail. Anybody else have an idea?
(knkresort) Your rig has a Hydraulic clutch. You did not say whether the squeak was coming from inside the cab so I will have to assume so.
The only moving 'parts' are the pedal and pushrod directly into the clutch master cylinder.(Under the hood directly opposite the clutch pedal) Your pedal force is converted to pressure in a pipe from there. At the other end of the pipe is a lever deep within the transmission bellhousing that activates the clutch.
There is supposed to be a dab of grease on both ends of the pushrod. (Hydraulic-safe of course.) If the pushrod was 'rubbing' on the rubber boot, a squeek could be produced.
Unless you are comfortable working around hydraulic components, you may want to have your friendly, neighborhood warrantee shop look at it.
Comments
You could assume that more air=more dirt, but is there a level of unnecessary restriction on a standard filter?
K&N says that a layer of dirt helps their filter. What would that layer do to a standard filter?
I asked a friend (mechanic) about it, and he had the same concerns, but seemed more confident due to the oil coating on the filter.
I guess it comes down to where you do most of your driving.
Until they can get a workable site with a 'sane' name, find a 'better' air filter than K-N, conform (fully) to SJ specs - like the rest of the synthoils, at least in their test results - and can convince me of their 'superiority' both scientifically and 'long-term real world other wise,' I'll keep using K & N filters and Mobil 1 or Royal Purple (aka as the 'best' synthoil on the planet). Sounds a bit like 'pushy' marketing to me. I've never had anything but positive comments (until now) about Amsoil, BUT this type of pot-shot at a 'known' quality product & silly tree-hugging-name crap is what keeps me from buying products like that in the first place. I drive a truck not a tree, and cars and boats and motorcycles; BTW - I'm a state certified environmentalist and hydrologist (and a petroleum geologist by trade). 'Guard-our-earth?' Get real.
Or believe 'Earth in the Balance' without question like the rest of the lemmings. NOT!
Other than those little details, everything's just hunky-dory, but I did have a REALLY bad day. :-(
Bookitty
Some of the other issues that were listed I don't believe were heritary in nature, and represent single-one off problems. These should have been resolved by the dealer the first time.
It's funny how different people think of quality in different ways. I work with a fellow that has has numerically almost the same amount of problems as the both of you combined, yet he has no problem with the over 40 visits to the dealer. And, he's committed to buying another GM truck. This seems to be irrespective of his experience.
Regards,
Dusty
"Go on with your bad self!!"
Allen-
my tack fluctuates 100 rpm. Is this normal?
Just looking for some of the expert advice that is
available on this forum before I talk to the dealer.
TIA
Carl
How many miles on your rig?
Are you moving or sitting still?
The 4.7L has to 'learn' your driving habits and environmental conditions. (Especially the idle-while-rolling conditions) Experience is that it takes up to 4000 miles for this to settle-out.
Carl
I visited some relatives this weekend who lived 200 miles away. The problem started when I stopped at a station and the door locks went crazy! They started going up and down and making clicking noises like it was trying to lock again after it was already locked. they finally stopped and I resumed my jaunt. As I was driving down the road they started doing the same thing! It seems they just get a mind of there own once in a while.
today I stopped for gas and it locked the door after I shut it! good thing I took my keys out.
2000 Quad Cab 4.7 auto with keyless entry and factory alarm system.Anybody else experience this problem? This is the first problem I have had in the first 9000 miles. I got my best mileage this trip 19.1 mpg but, that was no one but me and no load. 65 to 70 most of the way.
Dealer replaced the computer module (~$300) and the problem stopped. The doors had done this several times intermittently over a few years. Once while I was pulling into an amusement park. For a minute or two the locks just had a big party. Stopped just as suddenly as it started. Really erie feeling.
Please post the fix since you are not the first to report this problem.
they will check it out on friday so, I will keep you posted on what they find. This problem continued for the 2 days of my trip and the weather was perfect so I believe it must be a computer or an electrical short of some kind.
Maybe Jack, a.k.a (themacguy) can remember.
KnK
The copper excels in pulling the heat away from the center-electrode and sending it into the metal threads where it can be dissipated into the aluminum head of the engine. (The aluminum head is ALSO a good thermal conductor and aids in heat-dissapation.)
Some plugs also have a platinum center electrode which is VERY impervious to '"wear". (Platinum is a relatively inert material) thus it can me made much smaller than a 'standard' center-electrode which promotes a more localized spark.
HOWEVER
I believe you are mistaken about the BOB. (From Memory) I believe it states that the 4.7V8 has copper side-electrodes on the spark plugs. And warns about pre-ignition if these are not used.
Why all this copper? (Besides, GOLD is a better conductor!)
The intent is to keep the tip of the spark plugs 'cool' enough to keep them from igniting the FA mixture prematurely (pre-ignition).
The 'risk' of making the plug tips too 'cool' would cause a build-up of combustion by-products on them during warm-up/idle conditions.
Bottom line:
Keep the plug tips within a specific heat-range to burn off the crud but also not cause pre-ignition.
I will post the details on spark-plug design only if pressed... I do not want to go beyond the scope of this forum.
"Caution: The 4.7L V-8 engine is equipped with copper core ground electrode type spark plugs. They must be replaced with the same type/number spark plug as the original. If another spark plug is substituted, preignition will result."
I believe this is what I paraphrased in the previous message.
Your investigation is correct in that they are 0.47mF capacitors. The electrical diagram calls these out but in reality the connectors are missing from the wiring harness. (although the capacitors themselves are installed on the engine.)
Basically, any capacitance added between +12v supply to the injectors and engine ground will help eliminate voltage spikes caused by the impedance of the injector coils. (Basic analog electronics circuit design when driving coils with a digital signal.)
The intent is NOT to affect a radio. Instead the intent is to protect the ECU (Engine Control Unit or COMPUTER) from voltage spikes (over 100volts) due to the impedance of the coils within the injectors. Another benefit would be to improve the instantaneous current delivery that the injector coils theoretically will draw each time they are actuated.
Why are they not connected on the 2000 Dakota?
I haven't got a clue... but I surmise that that the capacitors are 'installed' when the engine is assembled but the wiring harness does not have the connectors because the vendor that builds the harness does not install the connectors.
It would be interesting to peek under the hood of a JEEP GRAND CHEROKEE which is where the 4.7L V8 made its debut. The BOB for the Dakota was obviously copied from the JGC. (4.7L sections) Perhaps this would point to an answer.
Is there any harm in disconnecting the negative post only and leaving the positive connected, or is it better to disconnect both?
Thanks.
The main drawback I can think of about disconnecting the battery on your Dakota is that the onboard computer(s) will loose there volatile memory. This means that some of the 'learned' settings will be lost. This is the main reason that the system was designed to have the removable fuse that does not affect the computer memory.
A better choice would be to procure a "battery maintainer" that plugs into a 125v outlet and will keep the battery at peak condition for many months if needed. These are basically a "wall wart" plug with a quick-disconnect pigtail that stays on your truck once it it installed. These devices are around 20$ (US) and actually "monitor" the battery to eliminate overcharging.
Disconnecting either or both of the battery connectors will suitably isolate the battery from any draining effects.
For SAFETY reasons, some say it is considerd better to disconect the earth, ground, negitive (-) terminal first. Conversly, the (-) should be connected last when hooking back up.
I am compelled to remind you of the very explosive hydrogen gas that a battery normally produces. (Remember the hindenburg blimp!) Watch out for sparks!!
PLEASE wear eye protection.
It is self regulating and only charges if the battery needs it otherwise, it is in a standby/storage mode. They cost about $50-60 if my memory serves me correct, an excellent thing to have around for many purposes.
OK enough of my campaign speech!
Of course you are correct... this should be extended to say all moving parts should be lubed regularly. This includes doors, tailgate, hood (hinges and latch in all cases.)
I had to replace the 'pins-n-bushings' in the door hinges of my first 2 cars before I learned keep them lubed. White-Lithium grease is waterproof and easy to spray into the nooks/crannies. (but can be a bit messy)
It is not a question of quantity but more a function of regularly being the key here.
Too much grease will just get all over the place with no lubricating benefits in the right places.
A good dealer will lube these items at every oil change. (That is why they call it a LOF...Lube Oil and Filter)
Took it in yesterday. They aligned the bumper and the hood and now everything is equal. Looks much better. Just a product of sloppy final fit and finish at the factory.
I canvassed 3 dealerships in my area and got quotes from $164-$202 when asking for the wheels by part number and $500-$560 when asking for the wheels for a Dakota R/T. The dealers/counter persons can set there own price for parts. Apparently when asking for the wheel by name the wheel is considered an OEM replacement item and when asking by part number the wheel is considered and after-market item, thus the big difference in price. Do not order by name and be prepared for a back order (There warehouse(s) can't keep up with the demand).
Earl
not idle. It runs fine except that it quits
when you let off the gas. I think there is an
idle sensor and I think that's the problem. Has
anyone replaced these? If so, what's a ballpark
on the sensor and where is it located?
Thanks.
iowabigguy--The price DOES include the center caps.
By the way, the parts people were surprised that I had the part number (I got from the Dakota Mailing List).
Earl
A 'quickie' way to search the DML topics is using the search ability built into your browser.
A more advanced method is to use a robot or 'worm' that crawls thru all of the appends and builds a searchable database for you on your computer.(The download and database build may take 'hours' but then ALL of the data is available to search without being online thereafter) ... Basic data management stuff... Free software tools are available online to do this kind of stuff.
I hope this explanation makes sense to you...
I believe that the DML uses an ORACLE database as their front-end. There may be an 'online' way to perform database queries against the data. (Sorry for being long-winded but I make my living doing this computer 'stuff' )
Allen-
I had it to the dealer once already for an entire day. Nothing found, "technician" checked suspension, body mounts etc and didn't find anything. Tomorrow it's going back as supposedly, two of the "body noise experts" would be back in the shop as they were on vacation last week.
I've been under the truck myself checking, pulling, pushing and pounding in different areas but cannot duplicate the noise. Grrrr.
It seems to be getting louder or I'm more annoyed by it the longer I need to listen to it. One of the emails from the the DML I received tonight mentioned a TSB on cab/body mounts from '97 up.
Anyone on here ever hear of that or can confirm the TSB so I can share that with my dealer?
Thanks,
fat_fenders
Service Bulletin Number: 130100
Bulletin Sequence Number: 999
Date of Bulletin: 0001
NHTSA Item Number: SB610019
Make: DODGE TRUCK
Model: DAKOTA
Year: 2000
Component: SUSPENSION
Summary: SOME VEHICLES MAY EXHIBIT A CONDITION
WHERE A SNAPPING, POPPING OR CLUNKING NOISE MAY BE
HEARD WHILE DRIVING OVER BUMPS.
fat_fenders
I had originally told the manager that I felt it was something suspension related like the torsion bars.
Well, guess what, that's what it was. Apparently, the torsion bar on the right (passenger) side was not seated all the way forward in the lower a-arm. This caused the bar to bottom out on ever little bump and with the slightest twist on the frame.
Rides quiet now. Thanks everyone for the input. It was appreciated even though it turned out to be something unrelated to the body.
fat_fenders
KnK
The only moving 'parts' are the pedal and pushrod directly into the clutch master cylinder.(Under the hood directly opposite the clutch pedal) Your pedal force is converted to pressure in a pipe from there. At the other end of the pipe is a lever deep within the transmission bellhousing that activates the clutch.
There is supposed to be a dab of grease on both ends of the pushrod. (Hydraulic-safe of course.) If the pushrod was 'rubbing' on the rubber boot, a squeek could be produced.
Unless you are comfortable working around hydraulic components, you may want to have your friendly, neighborhood warrantee shop look at it.